Vanilla Meringues

Makes: 4 to 5 dozen

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

Light, sweet, and low in fat, meringues are the perfect use for leftover egg whites. These are sort of chewy on the inside, with a crackly exterior. Meringue takes well to all kinds of add-ins, and the baked cookies can be topped or filled with Macerated Fruit, Fruit Jam, Whipped Cream, or Lemon Curd. Because they’re so airy, excess moisture can make them deflate, so add a teaspoon of cornstarch along with the salt if it’s humid.

• 4 egg whites at room temperature
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup superfine sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
• Up to 1 cup add-ins, like chopped nuts, chocolate, and/or dried fruit (optional)

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the salt and beat for 1 minute. While beating, slowly pour in the sugar and then the vanilla and cream of tartar and beat until the mixture makes stiff peaks. Fold in the add-ins if you’re using them.

2. Use a pastry bag, a zipper bag with a corner cut off, or a spoon to pipe or form small mounds of meringue, each a couple tablespoons (larger if you like); you can keep them close together since they won’t spread.

3. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until hard and very lightly browned. Transfer the meringues from the baking sheets to wire racks to cool for at least 30 minutes before eating. These will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

CHOCOLATE MERINGUES Intense, melting bittersweet taste: Use the best chocolate you can here, as the big chunks are front and center in this delicate cookie: Gently fold ¼ cup cocoa powder and 2 ounces chopped dark chocolate into the meringues at the end of Step 1.

MOCHA MERINGUES A bit of a coffee kick: Follow the preceding variation, substituting 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder for the dark chocolate.

NUT MERINGUES Nuts enhance the chewiness: Fold ¾ cup nut flour and 1 teaspoon cornstarch into the finished batter.

SWEET SESAME MERINGUES An unusual flavor that begs for a drizzle of honey: Toast ¾ cup sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until golden and fold them into the meringue batter at the end.

PAVLOVA A meringue “cake” that you can fill with fruit, whipped cream, even caramel: Pile the meringue into the center of the parchment-lined baking sheet and spread it into a circle about 9 inches in diameter, with the edges slightly taller than the center. Bake for 1 hour, then turn off the oven and let the pavlova cool completely before removing it and then filling it as you choose.

Piping Meringues

Use a pastry bag or a zipper bag with a corner snipped off to pipe the meringue into mounds on parchment-lined baking sheets.