Dessert soufflés—like their savory counterparts—get their lofty height and airy texture (the word soufflé has the same root as the word for “breath”) from beaten egg whites and their creamy, puddinglike centers from the yolks. Baked soufflés make stunning presentations, but they can also be frozen. Some versions are rich and velvety while others are light and even refreshing.
Soufflés have a reputation for being fussy and difficult; try, and you’ll quickly realize how straightforward they are. There are just a couple of rules: It’s essential to use clean metal or glass utensils for beating the egg whites; traces of fats, which keep the egg whites from foaming, can cling to plastic materials even after they are cleaned. For the same reason, make sure there is no trace of yolk in the whites; their fat will also render the whites flat. Use room-temperature eggs, so the whites hold more air. Whip until they are shiny and can hold stiff peaks with tips that fold over just a bit. If the whites are too stiff, clumpy, and watery, they’re overwhipped—you must start over with new whites. It’s a mistake you won’t make twice.
Be gentle when you fold the egg whites into the soufflé base so that you maintain their airiness. Start by folding about one-third of the egg whites into the base to lighten it. Use your hand or a rubber spatula—the spoon-shaped ones are especially nice—to scoop the mixture from the bottom in one clean motion and fold it over the top until it’s just barely incorporated. Gradually fold in the rest of the egg whites, a little more gently, just until you no longer see streaks of white. It may feel like you’re undermixing, but you’re not. If the mixture goes flat, it’s overmixed and it won’t rise much in the oven.
Don’t skip over anything in the prep: Butter, sugar, and straight-sided dishes all promote maximum rise. Resist the urge to keep opening the oven door to check on the soufflé as it bakes; gusts of cool air may cause the rising egg whites to fall, so start checking only about three-quarters of the way through baking. The soufflé is done when the top is golden and airy but the center still wobbles a bit.
Finally, serve immediately; soufflé waits for no one. It will start to deflate at room temperature, so everyone should be ready with spoons in hand for that dramatic moment when you bring the billowing soufflé to the table. For maximum effect, use a serving spoon to break into the center and let steam escape. Serve as is, with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar or cocoa powder, or with sauce, ice cream, or fresh fruit.