Chocolate Soufflé

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

No matter what you’ve heard, this soufflé is foolproof, and can even be prepared ahead, so long as you bake it just before you eat it; it starts to deflate shortly after it comes out of the oven. Serve with a spoonful of Crème Anglaise for a restaurant-quality dessert.

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter a deep 2-quart baking dish or several smaller individual ramekins. Sprinkle sugar over the butter, invert the dish, and tap to remove excess sugar.

2. Chop and melt the chocolate, then set it aside to cool. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks with all but 2 tablespoons of the sugar until very light and thick; the mixture will fall in a ribbon from the beaters or whisk when it is ready (see illustration). Mix in the melted chocolate until well combined and set aside.

3. Wash the beaters well, then beat the egg whites in a clean bowl with the salt and cream of tartar until they hold soft peaks; continue to beat, gradually adding the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, until they are very stiff and glossy. Stir a spoonful of the whites thoroughly into the egg yolk mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites (see illustrations, page 56). Transfer to the prepared dish(es) and use a spatula or butter knife to gently smooth the tops; at this point you can cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days before baking.

4. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes for ramekins and 25 to 35 minutes for a single large soufflé, until the center is nearly set. Dust with confectioners’ sugar if you like and serve immediately.

VANILLA SOUFFLÉ This version uses a classic white sauce for the base; it’s one small extra step that adds richness and depth of flavor: Omit the chocolate. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in 3 tablespoons flour and stir for 2 or 3 minutes. Add 1 cup whole milk and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the seeds from 1 vanilla bean (see page 29) or 1 tablespoon vanilla extract. Let cool while you beat the egg yolks and sugar; temper the eggs by beating in a bit of the milk mixture, then gradually adding the rest. Proceed with the recipe.

MOCHA SOUFFLÉ Dissolve 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder in 2 tablespoons boiling water, then add it when you add the chocolate.

PUMPKIN SOUFFLÉ An American twist: Omit the chocolate. Put ½ cup milk, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ginger, and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Combine 1 tablespoon cornstarch with 1 tablespoon milk; whisk into the saucepan, remove from the heat, and whisk in ¾ cup pumpkin purée. Add to the egg yolks in place of the chocolate.