Makes: 12 to 16
Time: 1 hour
An especially worthwhile DIY project given that supermarket corn tortillas are chalky and dry. A tortilla press lets you bypass rolling or hand-pressing but isn’t necessary to ensure delicious results—see When to Use a Tortilla Press (below). Cooked tortillas can be turned into unbeatable chips, and the raw dough can be stuffed and griddled to make Salvadoran pupusas. And if you substitute a particular kind of dehydrated cornmeal called masarepa (available in Latin markets and online) for the masa harina, you can just as easily make the wonderful Venezuelan corncakes, arepas. Recipes for all are in the variations that follow.
1. Combine the masa and salt in a bowl; stir in the oil. Slowly stream in about 1 cup very hot water (or more as needed) while mixing with a wooden spoon or, after it’s cooled down a bit, your hand, until the dough comes together into a ball.
2. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until it is smooth and elastic, just a minute or two. Wrap in plastic and let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to a few hours.
3. Break off pieces of the dough (16 if you’re using a press or about 12 if you’re hand-rolling), roll each piece into a slightly flattened disk and lightly flour them. Place a piece of dough between 2 pieces of plastic wrap or parchment paper. Shape it into a circle 4 to 6 inches in diameter, using either a heavy rolling pin, tortilla press, or heavy skillet as described below. If you’d like thinner tortillas, rotate the dough and repeat. Stack finished tortillas between sheets of plastic wrap or parchment or, to save time, start cooking the first pieces as you finish rolling the rest.
4. Put a large skillet or griddle (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes. Cook the tortillas, 1 or 2 at a time, until brown spots appear on the bottom, about a minute. Flip and repeat on the other side. Wrap the cooked tortillas in a towel to keep them warm; serve immediately or cool and store tightly wrapped in the fridge for a few days.
BLACK BEAN AND CHEESE PUPUSAS Basically a thick, stuffed corn tortilla; for a meat version, replace the beans with shredded cooked meat: Proceed with the recipe through Step 2. Divide it into 6 pieces and roll it into balls about 2 inches in diameter. With lightly oiled hands, hold a ball in one palm and use your other thumb to make an indentation. Flatten the edges to create a small bowl. Put about 1 tablespoon each cooked black beans and shredded Jack (or any mild Mexican cheese) into each bowl. Wrap the dough around the filling and pinch to seal the edge. Pat it gently into a ¼-inch-thick disk, taking care that the filling doesn’t leak. Cook in an oiled skillet over medium-high heat until browned and slightly puffy, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Serve immediately.
AREPAS You can serve these flatbreads as is, with just a little butter or hot sauce, but the best thing is to split them in half like a bun and fill them with braised meats, beans, vegetables, cheese, avocado, or anything else you like: Substitute masarepa (see the headnote) for the masa harina and make the dough as directed; you may need up to ¼ cup more water, but add just enough to make a stiff dough. Divide the dough into 6 pieces and flatten each one into a disk about 4 inches in diameter and ½ inch thick. If cracks appear around the edges, smooth them over with moistened fingers. Cook the arepas in butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat until lightly charred and crusty on both sides, 4 or 5 minutes per side. Transfer them to a baking sheet and finish cooking in a 325°F oven until the middles are cooked through, about 10 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes, then split, fill, and serve.
FRIED TORTILLA CHIPS A million times better than anything you can get in the store: Put at least 1 inch of neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn) in a deep pan on the stove and turn the heat to medium-high; bring to 350°F. Stack the tortillas and cut them, pielike, into 4 to 8 wedges. Fry as many at once as will fit without crowding, turning if necessary. Total cooking time will be about 2 minutes; the chips should just begin to darken in color but shouldn’t totally brown. Remove with tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on paper-towel-lined plates or racks. Sprinkle with salt and serve hot or at room temperature.
BAKED TORTILLA CHIPS Heat the oven to 400°F. Lightly brush or spray each tortilla on both sides with peanut or neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn). Stack the tortillas and cut them, pielike, into 4 to 8 wedges. Bake on ungreased baking sheets, shaking once or twice, until they just begin to color, 6 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and serve hot or at room temperature.