Makes: 1 loaf
Time: At least 8 hours, largely unattended
This is the stuff of my childhood growing up in New York City, back when real Jewish delis were everywhere. Achieving the real thing, with a chewy crumb and dark, tough crust, does take some time, but, as with most breads, the amount of active work involved is minimal.
1. To make the sponge, combine ½ cup of the all-purpose flour, the rye flour, ½ teaspoon of the yeast, the sugar, honey, and 1½ cups water in a bowl (if you’re using a stand mixer, use the mixer bowl for this). Cover and let sit at room temperature for 3 to 4 hours or, if you prefer, overnight.
2. To mix the dough in a stand mixer, add the remaining 2¼ cups all-purpose flour and ½ teaspoon yeast, the caraway seeds, salt, and oil to the sponge. Using a dough hook, mix on medium-low speed until the ingredients are blended together, then raise the speed to medium and mix until the dough is elastic, shiny, and smooth (it’ll still be fairly sticky), 10 to 12 minutes.
3. To mix the dough in a food processor, put the sponge and the remaining dough ingredients except for the caraway seeds into the work bowl. Process, adding more flour 1 tablespoon at a time if the dough looks too wet, until the dough comes together into a sticky mass. Turn it out onto a well-floured counter and knead in the caraway seeds until they’re distributed throughout. Cover the dough and let it rest for 15 minutes, then knead again, sprinkling with just enough additional flour to keep it from sticking, until the dough is elastic, shiny, and smooth, another 5 minutes or so.
4. Grease a large bowl with a little oil, transfer the dough to the bowl, turn the dough in the bowl to coat it lightly in oil, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 2 to 3 hours.
5. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and shape it into a round or oval loaf. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise on the counter for another 1½ hours.
6. About 45 minutes before the dough has risen, heat the oven to 425°F. Put an ovenproof skillet (preferably cast iron) on the floor or the lowest rack while the oven heats. If you’re using a baking stone, put it on the rack above the skillet while the oven heats; if not, line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
7. Once you’re ready to bake, slide the dough onto a lightly floured peel or flexible cutting board or transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Slash the top of the loaf a few times with a sharp knife or razor blade and spritz the loaf with water. Use the peel or cutting board to slide the loaf onto the stone or slide the baking sheet into the oven. Partially pull out the rack with the heated skillet and very carefully pour 1 cup hot water into the skillet (it will create a lot of steam). Slide the rack back in and immediately close the oven door.
8. Bake for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 400°F. Continue baking for 30 to 35 minutes, turning the bread or the baking sheet halfway through, until the crust is golden brown and the internal temperature reaches 200°F on a quick-read thermometer. Remove and cool on a wire rack.