Asparagus Tart

Makes: One 9-inch tart, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1½ hours

Think of this classic vegetable tart as a template, ready to be filled with whatever produce is currently at its best. Tender vegetables (like the asparagus used here) often need no precooking; others, like eggplant, mushrooms, and sturdier root vegetables, should get a little head start, either by roasting or parboiling until they’re a little shy of tender (see How to Prep Any Vegetable for Savory Baking, page 507). To be fancy, arrange the vegetables in concentric circles around the tart; to be like me, just dump them on. Serve thin slices as appetizers or bigger wedges alongside a salad as a main course.

1. Partially bake the crust as described on page 258, just until it’s golden and set, then turn the oven to 375°F. Set the shell aside on a wire rack.

2. While the crust is baking, cook the onion in the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat for about 10 minutes, until tender and browned, stirring often. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Spoon the onion into the tart crust. Crumble the goat cheese over the onion and sprinkle with the thyme. Put the asparagus on top, spreading the spears all the way out to the edges and arranging them as neatly or as messily as you like. Drizzle lightly with olive oil.

4. Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the asparagus is tender and lightly browned. Cool on a rack for about 10 minutes; serve warm or at room temperature.

ARTICHOKE TART Substitute ricotta for the goat cheese (sprinkle a little grated lemon zest on along with the thyme) and 3 cups chopped fresh or thawed frozen artichokes for the asparagus. Scatter on a handful of grated Parmesan before baking.

CHERRY TOMATO AND OLIVE TART Don’t prebake the crust. Fill with the onions and cheese. Substitute 2 cups cherry tomatoes and 1 cup pitted olives (oil-cured or kalamata are great) for the asparagus. Bake until the crust is cooked and the tomatoes are nicely roasted, 40 to 45 minutes.