May 28 is National Hamburger Day. The hot dog, too, has its own month: July (proclaimed by the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council—yes, there is such an organization). As for bratwurst, reluctant to wait for Labor Day, Johnsonville has proclaimed August 16 the start of the “Twelve Days of Bratsgiving.” These red-letter days remind us that ground meats command our respect all year long and that it’s never too early to fire up your grill to cook them. In this chapter, you’ll learn how to grill the perfect hamburger (hint: Use three cuts of beef) and how to construct an Italian cheeseburger (hint: There’s a slab of real Gorgonzola cheese in the center). You’ll learn how to hedgehog a hot dog (for the crustiest wiener ever) and how to give Italian sausage a smoke ring (and a smoke flavor you never dreamed sausage could possess)—served in a “mile-long” sandwich. So mark your calendar and get ready to grill some righteous ground meat.
Yield: Serves 4
Method: Direct grilling
Prep time: 30 minutes
Grilling time: 6 to 10 minutes
Grill/Gear: Can be grilled over charcoal, wood, or gas. You also need an instant-read thermometer.
Shop: When possible, grass-fed or organic beef with 15 to 20 percent fat content.
Insider tip: How far would you go for a great burger? Would you source and grind your own beef? If so, you need a real meat grinder: Good brands include Magic Mill and STX. KitchenAid also makes an optional food grinder attachment for the power hub on its stand mixers. Sorry folks, you can’t get a proper grind in a food processor. If you don’t have a meat grinder, find a butcher who will grind the burger meat to your specs.
So what makes a great burger? Obviously, the flavorings, the grill master’s skill, and even the shape of the roll. But the most important factor may be the one over which few of us take any control: the composition of the meat. What’s actually in the ground beef you buy in your supermarket cold case? Well, here’s an occasion to take charge and determine the meat blend. My dream burger contains equal parts brisket, sirloin, and short ribs: the first for its beefiness; the second for its steakiness; and the third for its richness and fat. Note: I like to put the potato chips on the burger, not next to it, for extra crunch.
Ingredients
For the Burgers
10 ounces sirloin, cut into 1-inch chunks, chilled
10 ounces beef brisket (not too lean), cut into 1-inch chunks, chilled
10 ounces boneless beef short ribs, cut into 1-inch chunks, chilled
Vegetable oil for oiling the grill grate
Coarse salt (sea or kosher) and freshly ground black pepper
4 thin slices (3 by 3 inches) sharp cheddar cheese or aged provolone (4 to 6 ounces; optional)
2 tablespoons butter, melted
4 brioche hamburger buns or sesame buns, split
4 lettuce leaves
Any or All of the Following Toppings
4 slices bacon, grilled and cut in half crosswise
1 luscious ripe red tomato, sliced crosswise
Sliced avocado
Sliced dill or sweet pickles
1 cup potato chips
1 small sweet onion, peeled and thinly sliced
Ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, and/or pickle relish to taste
1. Coarsely grind the sirloin, brisket, and short ribs in a meat grinder (make sure the parts are well-chilled; I place them in the freezer for 30 minutes first). Mix well with a wooden spoon. Wet your hands with cold water. Form 4 equal patties, each ¾ inch thick. Dimple the center slightly with your thumb (burgers rise more in the center as they cook, so these will remain an even thickness). Place the burgers on a plate lined with plastic wrap. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate while you light the grill.
2. Set up your grill for direct grilling and heat to high. Ideally, you’ll be grilling over wood or a wood-enhanced fire. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well.
3. Season the burgers generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Arrange on the grate and grill until the bottoms are sizzling and browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Give them each a quarter turn after 1½ minutes so they grill evenly. Turn the burgers over and lay the cheese slices on top, if using. Close the grill lid and continue grilling until the cheese is melted and the burgers are cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes more. The USDA recommends an internal temperature of 160°F. Insert the probe of an instant-read thermometer through the side of the burger to check it.
4. Meanwhile, butter the cut sides of the buns. Toast the buns, cut sides down, on the grill. This will take about 1 minute.
5. To assemble the burgers, line the bottom of each toasted bun with a lettuce leaf (this keeps the burger juices from making it soggy). Add the burger and any of the toppings, including your favorite condiments. Add the top bun and enjoy.
Ground Beef Speak
Ground Beef: Did you know there’s a difference between ground beef and hamburger? Ground beef is made from trimmings (meat and fat) or offal from one or multiple animals. The fat content cannot exceed 30 percent and must come exclusively from the trimmings themselves. Additional fat cannot be added.
Hamburger: Like ground beef, hamburger is made from meat trimmings or offal from one or multiple animals and cannot exceed 30 percent fat. Unlike ground beef, however, pure beef fat (suet) can be added to the mixture to supplement fat in the trimmings.
Lean and Extra Lean Ground Beef: According to the USDA, ground beef that is labeled “lean” contains 10 percent fat. If the mixture is labeled “extra lean,” it contains 5 percent fat
With Crispy Prosciutto, Grilled Radicchio, and Gorgonzola
Yield: Makes 4 burgers
Method: Direct grilling
Prep time: 15 minutes
Grilling time: 10 minutes
Grill/Gear: Can be grilled over charcoal or gas, but for the best flavor, grill over wood. You also need an instant-read thermometer.
Shop: Most supermarkets sell imported Italian Gorgonzola cheese. (If you can’t find it, substitute another mild blue cheese or other Italian cheese.) Ditto for radicchio, a bitter, cruciferous, red-and-white salad green that comes in small heads.
Insider tip: Did you ever notice how some hamburgers seem luscious and light, others leaden? One factor is how you handle the meat. Moisten your hands with cold water and touch the meat as little as possible.
Imagine if the cheeseburger had been born in Italy, not the United States. The cheese might be Gorgonzola; the bacon, prosciutto; the lettuce, raddichio; and the bun, ciabatta. And the meat itself might be a mixture of ground beef and pork. Here’s a cheeseburger that’s simultaneously familiar and exotic. Note the technique for sandwiching the cheese in the beef.
Ingredients
For the Burgers
1 pound ground sirloin
¾ pound lean ground pork (or more beef)
8 ounces Gorgonzola cheese in 4 slices
Coarse salt (sea or kosher) and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil for oiling the grill grate
For Serving
1 small head of radicchio, cut crosswise into ½-inch-wide slices
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, or as needed
Coarse salt (sea or kosher) and freshly ground black pepper
4 thin slices prosciutto
4 ciabatta rolls, each cut in half
8 oil-cured sun-dried tomato halves, drained
1. Line a plate with plastic wrap. Mix the ground sirloin and pork together with a wooden spoon. Moisten your hands with cold water. Divide the mixture into 8 balls and flatten each into a square patty. Sandwich a slice of Gorgonzola between 2 patties, crimping the edges to encase the cheese. Place on the prepared plate. Cover with additional plastic wrap and refrigerate while you light the grill. Just before grilling, season generously on both sides with salt and pepper.
2. Set up the grill for direct grilling. Heat one side to high and one side to medium-high. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well.
3. Lightly brush the radicchio slices on both sides with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Lightly brush the prosciutto on both sides with olive oil. Lightly brush the cut sides of the ciabatta rolls with olive oil.
4. Grill the radicchio over high heat until browned on both sides, but still raw in the center, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Grill the prosciutto over medium-high heat until browned, 1 to 2 minutes per side. It will crisp as it cools. Set these ingredients aside.
5. Grill the burgers over high heat until sizzling and browned on both sides, 3 to 5 minutes per side. To test for doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer through the side of a burger into the center: The internal temperature should be about 160°F for medium. While you’re at it, grill the ciabatta rolls over medium-high heat, cut sides down, 1 to 2 minutes.
6. Assemble the burgers: Place a slice of grilled radicchio on the bottom half of the ciabatta bun, then the burger, prosciutto, and finally, the sun-dried tomatoes. Now that’s a cheeseburger.
with Yogurt and Dill
Yield: Serves 4
Method: Direct grilling
Prep time: 15 minutes
Grilling time: 6 to 8 minutes
Grill/Gear: Can be grilled over charcoal, wood, or gas. You also need an instant-read thermometer.
Shop: You want fairly fatty lamb for these burgers: 15 to 20% fat content.
Insider tip: Lamb burgers can sometimes be tough. You’re going to make a panada, bread soaked in milk or cream, and add it to the meat to keep it soft and moist.
Kofta. Kubideh. Lula (sometimes spelled lyulya). Vast is the world of ground grilled lamb dishes, and your repertory isn’t complete without at least one. Here’s a Greek version, flavored with garlic, scallions, and dill. For a Middle Eastern lamb burger, replace the dill with fresh mint and add a teaspoon or two of sumac (a tart red spice available in Middle Eastern markets).
Ingredients
For the Lamb
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon coarse salt (sea or kosher)
1 slice country-style white bread, crust removed, cut into ½-inch cubes
3 tablespoons heavy (whipping) cream
1¾ pounds ground lamb, well chilled
2 scallions, trimmed, white and green parts finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus 8 sprigs for serving
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil for oiling the grill grate
For Serving
4 fresh pita breads (white or whole wheat)
4 romaine lettuce leaves, washed and dried
1 cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced
1 ripe tomato, diced
¾ cup plain Greek yogurt
1. Place the garlic and salt in the bottom of a mixing bowl and mash to a paste with the back of a spoon. Stir in the bread and heavy cream and let the mixture soak for 5 minutes.
2. Add the lamb, scallions, dill, cumin, and pepper and stir just to mix with a wooden spoon. Wet your hands and form the lamb mixture into 4 oval patties. Arrange on a plate lined with plastic wrap. Cover with additional plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
3. Set up your grill for direct grilling and heat to high. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well.
4. Arrange the lamb burgers on the grate and grill until sizzling and browned on both sides and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. To test for doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer through the side of a burger into the center. The internal temperature should be 160°F for medium. While you’re at it, lightly toast the pita breads on the grill, 30 to 60 seconds per side.
5. To serve, slice one edge and open each pita bread. Line each one with a lettuce leaf, then pile in the burger, cucumber, tomato, and generous dollops of yogurt. You’ll need both hands to eat this one.
Italian Sausage Sandwich for a Crowd
Yield: Serves 4 to 8 and can be multiplied as desired
Method: Indirect grilling for the sausages; direct grilling for the veggies and bread
Prep time: 15 minutes
Grilling time: 12 minutes for the veggies, plus 30 to 40 minutes for the sausages
Grill/Gear: Can be grilled over charcoal or gas. You also need toothpicks; basting brush; 2 hardwood chunks or 1½ cups wood chips (optional; if using the latter, soak in water to cover for 30 minutes, then drain); and an instant-read thermometer.
Shop: There are two options for Italian sausage: sweet or hot, or you could grill and serve both. Giardiniera is an Italian pickled vegetable mix. Look for it in Italian markets and most supermarkets. Two good brands are Marconi and Mezzetta.
Insider tip: Some years ago, having a very large number of bratwurst to grill and a small number of helpers (make that none) to do it, I set up a large charcoal grill for indirect grilling. Not only did the sausages come out supernaturally plump and juicy, there was nary a split casing or flare-up. Best of all, by adding wood chips to the fire, I gave the sausages a smoke flavor, complete with crimson smoke ring. This is the only way I grill any sausage now—German, Italian, or otherwise. Try it: It might just become your go-to method, too.
This colorful Italian sausage sandwich was inspired by the Italian street festivals that take place each summer in Boston’s North End. Traditionally, the sausage and peppers are griddled on a gas-heated flattop. But grilling with hardwood scents the ingredients with an inimitable smoke flavor. Butt two Italian breads end to end to create a “mile-long” sandwich. The recipe can be multiplied as many times as you want to create edible bliss by the yard.
Ingredients
Vegetable oil for oiling the grill grate
1 red bell pepper
1 yellow bell pepper
1 green bell pepper
1 large onion, peeled and cut into 12 wedges
Extra virgin olive oil for basting and drizzling
Coarse salt (sea or kosher) and freshly ground black pepper
8 Italian sausages
2 long Italian breads or French baguettes
2 cups giardiniera (Italian pickled vegetables), with 3 to 4 tablespoons juices
1 bunch dried oregano (available at Italian grocery stores) or 1 tablespoon dried oregano
1. Set up your grill for direct grilling and heat to high. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well.
2. Arrange the peppers on the grate and grill until darkly browned on all sides, about 3 minutes per side, 12 minutes in all. Transfer to a large cutting board to cool.
3. Meanwhile, insert a toothpick in each onion wedge. Lightly brush the onion wedges with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill until sizzling, browned, and soft, 3 to 5 minutes per side, turning with tongs. Transfer to the cutting board to cool.
4. Cut the peppers lengthwise into ½-inch strips, discarding the stems and seeds. Remove the toothpicks from the onion wedges and cut them crosswise into ½-inch-wide slices. The peppers and onions can be prepped several hours ahead or even at a previous grill session.
5. An hour before serving, set up your grill for indirect grilling and heat to medium-high. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well. Arrange the sausages on the grate over the drip pan away from the heat. If you want a smoke flavor (nontraditional, but decidedly tasty), add the wood chunks or chips to the coals.
6. Close the grill lid and indirect grill the sausages until crusty and golden brown on the outside and cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes. Use an instant-read thermometer to check for doneness—insert it in one end toward the center of the sausage—it should read 160°F. There is no need to turn the sausages; remember, you’re indirect grilling.
7. Meanwhile, cut one end off each loaf of bread so you can butt them together. Cut each loaf almost in half lengthwise through the top. Open up the bread and brush inside and out with olive oil. I like to toast the bread on the grill, but tradition calls for leaving it soft. Your choice.
8. To assemble the mile-long sandwiches, join the breads together end to end to make one long sandwich. Line up the sausages in the sandwich. Top with the grilled peppers and onions and giardiniera. Drizzle more olive oil and the giardiniera juices on top. Rub the oregano bunch between the palms of your hands to sprinkle fragrant dried oregano on top. Let everyone admire the sandwich whole, then slice crosswise with a serrated knife into individual sausage lengths for serving.
Yield: Makes 8 and can be multiplied as desired
Method: Direct grilling
Prep time: 15 minutes
Grilling time: 8 to 10 minutes
Grill/Gear: Can be grilled over charcoal, wood, or gas.
Shop: Lots of options for hot dogs here. Wagyu beef dogs (available from Snake River Farms) if you’re feeling extravagant. Applegate if you want a natural nitrite-free hot dog. Hebrew National if you like the salty tang of tradition.
Insider tip: These hot dogs use a technique called “hedgehogging,” in which you score the surface of the hot dogs in a crosshatch pattern. The edges puff and char during grilling, giving you an exceptionally crusty exterior and adding more wood smoke flavor. They also look cool as all get-out.
I always feel awkward about including a hot dog recipe in a cookbook. After all, hot dogs are the first food most of us grilled, and you don’t need a cookbook to show you how. What special technique could I possibly bring to a food that’s essentially ready to eat when it comes out of the package? Hedgehogging dramatically increases the ratio of crisp smoky crust to center meat. Tip o’ the hat to Russ Faulk of Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet for this singular scoring technique and the idea of grilling the hot dog buns with mayonnaise and remoulade sauce. He calls his version a “Po’ Dog.” Amen.
Ingredients
8 best-quality all-beef hot dogs
8 bakery-fresh hot dog rolls, preferably brioche rolls
6 tablespoons mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s or Best Foods
Vegetable oil for oiling the grill grate
Baby arugula or other micro-greens
2 luscious red ripe tomatoes or 1 pint cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced
1. Using a paring knife, make a series of crosshatch cuts on the surface of each hot dog, about ⅛ inch deep and ¼ inch apart, on all sides. (This will expose more of the hot dog to the direct heat of the grill.)
2. Slather the cut insides of the rolls with mayonnaise.
3. Set up your grill for direct grilling and heat to high. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well. Arrange the hot dogs on the grate. Grill until the exterior is sizzling, crisp, and browned, about 2 minutes per side, 6 to 8 minutes in all. While you’re at it, grill the mayonnaise-slathered rolls until toasted, 1 minute per side.
4. Slather the rolls with Creole Mustard Sauce. Add the hot dogs, baby arugula, and tomato slices, and any other condiment you may fancy. This may be the best hot dog you’ve ever tasted.
Yield: Makes 1 cup
Horseradish, hot sauce, and mustard give this slather sauce plenty of fire power. One good brand of Creole mustard is Zatarain’s, from Louisiana.
Ingredients
¾ cup mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s or Best Foods
¼ cup Creole mustard
¼ cup prepared horseradish
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon of Tabasco or your favorite hot sauce, or to taste
3 tablespoons minced celery
3 tablespoons minced green olives
1 tablespoon drained capers
Combine the ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk to mix. Any leftover sauce will keep in the refrigerator for several days.