It’s well known that the use of herbs and spices in beer predates the use of hops, and that the somewhat confusing delineation of beer and ale once differentiated beverages made with and without the use of hops, respectively. Once hops took hold, in fact, spices and herbs were left largely to languish where brewing was concerned, continuing mainly as flavorings for food and in medicines, but appearing in beer only here and there. We also know that the issue was politically, economically, and even religiously charged, with the rights to taxes paid on herbal gruit mixtures often held by the church, which represented a meaningful income to itself but an onerous expense to brewers. Little wonder that once hops appeared they brought with them a disincentive for continuing to use these other flavorings, and especially as people seemed generally to like hopped beer. Struggles ensued, along with conflicts, excommunications, and embargoes. In Germany, with the adoption of the Reinheitsgebot in 1516, the use of any materials other than malted barley, hops, and water became explicitly illegal. (In its modern form, the Reinheitsgebot obviously includes yeast and, for some types of beer, other malted grains such as wheat.) This included spices and herbs, of course, but also pretty much everything else we consider in this book. Should they have existed back then, one has to wonder if an addendum might have been drafted to additionally prohibit Cascade, Motueka, and other hops perhaps regarded as exotic, given that they weren’t grown in Bavaria. Maybe that’s just being snarky. Let’s just say it’s a good thing we can use what we want in beer, including herbs and spices, without the church or the government making it their business (mostly). In this chapter, we’ll at least consider a little transgression as well.
I’m guessing that most cities of some size have a decent spice market. Seattle, Washington does, and I’m not talking about the chain stores, good in their own way as an alternative to the five or six feet of aisle space devoted to spices in a typical grocery store or supermarket, but still a far cry from a real spice market with the feel of a local bazaar. I will hammer just a bit on those chain stores, since much of what they sell is spice mixes, be it curry powder, chili powder, or maybe mixed mole spices, for example. These store-bought mixes can be well-crafted and serviceable, but they are shortcuts, combining things in a way their professionals have justly deemed delicious but taking any possibility for customization away from the consumer. For many people that’s just fine (and I’ve got some of their stuff in my cupboard, too, for when I don’t want to do all that grinding), but it’s like using malt extract for brewing—the results can be delicious, but all the choices have been made for you in the interests of ease, consistency, and saving time. Please don’t even consider the supermarket. The herbs and spices for sale there are strictly for emergencies, like when you’ve got dinner underway and realize you’re out of fennel seed. They’re also, ounce for ounce, generally a lot more expensive. These days, of course, and for those who might not have a local spice market of quality, there are excellent online options too. The only problem there is that you can’t sniff and taste things in person.
Just walking into my local spice market gives me ideas of things to add to beer, even if I don’t yet have any idea what that beer would be. It makes me want to build a beer around things like Balinese long pepper and Vietnamese cinnamon, and maybe to twist in the accent of some other obscure pepper. But however interesting and diverting that may be, it isn’t what we’re here now to do. We’re taking a beer type that, with some variation, is well established as to style and attributes and we’re coming up with things that will harmonize with and play off of hops, esters, malty sweetness, the possibly phenolic qualities of yeast, and maybe, in some cases, the foodiness of oak. With that understanding, we can still take that walk around the bazaar, sticking our noses into the display jars and considering what we might hazard a dash or two of in our IPA.
Herbs and spices are evocative, conjuring places and their cuisines; they can also speak across time, retracing the trade routes of yore, the exploration of new lands and the subsumption of cooking culture and agriculture. How a European herb such as cilantro made it across the world to become a staple of southeast Asian cooking is just one example. Jamaican allspice is the predominant flavor of jerk chicken, ground sassafras leaves form the uniquely flavored filé used in gumbo, but neither is probably going to combine well with the boldness of IPA, unless perhaps to push a conceptual point. But deconstruct the curry powder that trumpets Indian cuisine and you might be onto something. Indian curries, of course, vary widely according to where they arise and the spice mixes that go into them. Most have the signature of yellow turmeric; many also have cardamom, clove, coriander, cinnamon, cumin, ginger, fenugreek, or black pepper, among others and in various combinations. One or two of those ingredients may combine nicely with the spiciness or fruity sharpness of hops or the roastiness of malt to make a delicious and beguiling IPA with a nice conceptual link to the land forever linked with its story. And let’s not forget that there are curries from other lands as well. More than the fruits and vegetables we’ve already examined in the previous chapter, herbs and spices, especially spices, tell a story simply by their presence. And I’ve always said every beer has a story.
Distilling is not a cuisine as such, but inspiration can also be taken from herbal and botanical mixtures used to flavor bitter and aromatic liqueurs, aperitifs, and digestifs. Gin in particular sets a collective example of variety, incorporating proprietary blends of spices, herbs, and botanicals, including not just the juniper berries with which everyone is familiar, but also cassia, cubeb berries, citrus peel, coriander, orris root, angelica, and grains of paradise, among others. Working closely with a friendly distiller offers a great cross-branding opportunity, especially if you age your IPA in their gin barrels—Beer Street and Gin Lane all in one, without the Hogarthian judgement.
Among specialty ingredients, herbs are probably most commonly and obviously used in adding to an IPA. Terpenic tie-ins (see appendix) are evident with rosemary, thyme, oregano, shiso, basil, and others; but while their use can be conceptually justified by the fact that the same compounds variously turn up in specific hop varieties, discretion must be used. Tying in can be tantamount to tying up, dominating the flavor of a beer with something that might be more appropriate as a background note, or that isn’t appropriate at all. Basil, for example, strikes me as too sweetly flavored to be more than subtly worked into the herbal sharpness and already sweet maltiness that an IPA has as its constituent parts. Shiso too is pretty bold. Italian oregano seems a little too food-like, perhaps, unfairly, suggesting marinara; but make that oregano Mexican, or bring in epazote, or even some of that shiso after all, and you’re talking creosote and resin to walk alongside the appropriate hop. Of this list, I think rosemary is best of all, piney and a bit harsh, like a lot of Northwest hops; and speaking of which, it grows like a weed throughout much of western IPA-land.
Speaking of growing things, herbs are perhaps the most appropriate and gratifying of all the ingredients we’re liable to deal with. They are easy to plant and tend, and lend themselves to combinations in both cooking and augmenting the flavors of beer. They can also be a pleasantly aromatic presence outside your kitchen or brewery window. Given the space necessary—and space can often be appropriated on rooftops and in other odd spots—a brewery herb garden can be just the thing for seasonally generating (and preserving through drying into other times of year) an array of flavors for use in concert with the bold hop character of IPA, and for other beers besides.
Trees themselves can provide interesting, herbally-aligned flavorings for beer. The springtime tips of regenerating spruce, pine, or fir can add a spicy, sappy note to any beer, and in IPA that can work with aroma and flavor hops in resinous harmony. The pale green tips of spruce can be added late on the hot side (e.g., in the whirlpool) or bagged and added on the cold side to give a spicy, cola-like flavor. Maple too can be used to make an interestingly flavored IPA, with unconcentrated sap (where available) used as brewing liquor or syrup added to fermentation. Juniper bushes are useful beyond the berries used to flavor gin; the branches of common juniper can be added to brewing liquor or the mash to flavor wort, and can also be steam-sterilized and hung in the conditioning tank during the aging process. For every caution where the ingestion of juniper is concerned there is a corresponding theoretical benefit; still, with the variety of types growing ornamentally throughout the world, it’s best to identify the variety and read up just a bit before use. This would apply as well to evergreen tips—remember Socrates and hemlock.
Roughly speaking, herbs are typically classified as culinary, aromatic, or those used to make tea by infusion. On the surface, herbs are not unlike different hop varieties in being optimal for a particular assignment, be it bittering, flavor, or aroma; but, offhand, I’d say there’s greater difference between sage and lemon verbena, for example, than among most hop varieties (hop-headed taxonomists might disagree).
Culinary herbs, in addition to the rosemary, thyme, oregano, shiso, and basil already mentioned, includes such herbs as chervil, mint, borage, parsley, and chives. Chives are liable to carry the off flavors of onion; parsley, like oregano, to connote food rather too much; but the cucumbery note of borage could bring an intriguing zest alongside a citrusy hop variety or actual lemon. The herbal combinations we employ in cooking, of course, can inform choices we make when crafting recipes for beer.
Aromatic herbs need to be employed in IPA and other beer with special care, for to overdo them can result in something one might as well call “Grandma’s IPA.” There are stores and websites devoted to creating various herbal mixtures for potpourri, and this is what your beer will taste like if you combine too many of these essentially floral aromas into a single entity. Still, a note of rose, violet, sweet woodruff, or bergamot could be managed. Perhaps conceptually, as with spice mixes such as curry or mole, all that floral combination needs some deconstruction. It’s also to be noted that some aromas are polarizing, possibly dividing even more sharply than usual those loving and those hating a particular beer. I have experienced this in the past with lavender—to some a lovely and ethereal note, to others just plain soap.
The herbs ordinarily used for making tea may be those with the greatest applicability for augmenting IPA, especially given that hops themselves are often listed as belonging to this group. Some, such as chamomile, lovage, and caraway are particularly strongly flavored and would likely dominate any beer in which they were incorporated; with them I’d counsel a combination of courage and discretion. Others such as heather could add a light, geographically evocative note. Fennel, with its anise essence, is an obvious tie-in with some hop varieties such as Northern Brewer or Centennial, which could meet it symbiotically halfway. Some other flowers such as jasmine and calendula do double duty as aromatics and in tea, and they too can be pleasingly yoked to earthy and floral hop aromas. Whether it is to be classified as herbal or not, actual tea is a fun element to consider as well. We will examine this more closely in chapter 5, which treats the use of coffee in IPA.
Herbs, spices, and teas of all types tend to be dried for shipping, stability, and effectiveness. Some of the culinary herbs, such as mint, thyme, chives, parsley, and dill are often most effective fresh (though they too are dried), while others are frequently cooked in order to unlock their flavors. Many, such as tarragon and oregano literally multiply in effect when dried; similarly, sweet woodruff is benign and grassy when fresh, cinnamon and vanilla-like when laid out for a couple of days. Aromatic herbs are typically dried to maximize their floral qualities, and like delicate noble hops used for finishing beer, would become subdued to nothing if boiled overmuch, or even protractedly steeped. Others, including floral and herbal teas and spices, depend on the dispersal of their flavors and character by infusion in hot liquid, and otherwise provide no more aromatic addition than a handful of hay.
Many of us have over the years noticed the aromatic congruence between marijuana and hops, and, of course, it has been pointed out that the two plants are taxonomically closely related and some of the physical properties of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and alpha acids are similar. The naming and packaging of many IPAs has winkingly alluded as much, with words such as “dank” and “herb-acious” often used by brewers and their waitstaff to describe beers made with hop varieties particularly evocative of pot. Weed-related descriptors are often used to describe the properties of specific hop varieties, even at a corporate level.
Much of this speculation and (previously) extra-legal experimentation has since been dispensed with, because, as of this writing, around 20% of the US population lives in states (and Washington, DC) where recreational use of marijuana has been legalized. Even in these places, the use of cannabis-related products by professional brewers has been limited to hemp seeds and essences of cannabidiol (CBD), typically introduced on the cold side and without psychoactive effect, this having to do with the fact that these brewers hold federal licenses and so are prohibited from having THC show up in their beer. Homebrewers in these appropriately enlightened states, however, are free to brew beers that make use of all properties of marijuana. It’s parenthetically interesting, in fact, to note that these same states are those in which small-scale brewing took earliest popular hold, but that’s as far as our half-“baked” demographic analysis will go.
In any case, the strong flavors of IPA lend themselves well, should one be so inclined, to the introduction of marijuana for both flavor and effect. This presents a couple of logistical challenges. It’s well known amid circles of hempen aficionados that for THC to be incorporated effectively into any medium intended for ingestion and subsequent psychoactive effect some solubilizing medium is required, typically fat or ethanol. This is why such treats are often baked, which binds active THC to digestible oil or butter, as well as introducing strong flavors such as chocolate to mitigate harsh flavors. But if ever there was a beer style appropriate in its other excesses to accommodate the flavors and other properties of marijuana, it is certainly IPA. (Hops too, of course, need to be hot-infused in order to contribute bitterness.)
The ethanol option might seem to be taken care of given the alcoholic component of beer, but while technically present, the alcoholic concentration in even a strong IPA is not nearly as effective as a tincture made using stronger spirits such as vodka or the more neutral Everclear®. It’s surprising, in fact, to note that such a venerable oracle of things weed-related as High Times referenced a recipe seeming to ignore the facts of THC assimilation, calling it good with a hot side whirlpool addition and later, cold side “dry potting,” further claiming that a single 12-ounce bottle of homebrew would carry the same effect as a brownie (McDonough 2016).
Possibly more effective and interesting as a medium is lightly heated olive oil. This might on the surface seem anathema, given the head-killing property of other fats in beer. But combine that treated olive oil with active yeast slurry and an extra mycologically nutritive benefit is gained. This shows that the subject could be further explored, but for now I will simply refer the reader to the “Steal This Beer” sidebar and to further reading in the bibliography (Andre et al. 2016; Sorini and Burrows 2017; Sumpson 2014).
Where herbs can be fairly reliably defined as the leaves and flowers of the plants with which they are associated, spices by contrast are all over the map. Variously bark, nut, berry, root, pod, seed, nib, husk, grain, or peel, spices are also wildly different in their flavors and effects, and generally more bold than herbs. Differences can also occur from part to part within a single plant. It’s reasonably well known that cilantro and coriander come from the same plant, constituting its leaves and seeds, respectively (English speakers outside North America refer to “fresh coriander” or “coriander leaves” rather than the Spanish cilantro); similarly, the stalks of celery, its seeds, and its root provide very different culinary effects. Somewhat more obscurely, the spice known as mace comes from the pods in which nutmeg grows. Cinnamon and cassia are more difficult to tease apart, and seem mainly to differ by place of origin more than anything else. Few of these, it might as well be observed, would seem to jump out at the prospective crafter of IPA, but spices should not be categorically written off simply out of confusion, especially when combinations and subtle use are considered. There’s a world of difference, and nuance, to be explored when considering them for use in brewing IPA.
Spices are less commonly evoked than herbs in the descriptors employed for hop flavors and aromas (though some of the so-called noble hops are exceptions to this), but have a lot of (selective) possibility for jazzing up IPA. Seeds figure prominently in the roster of spices that seem to correspond most appropriately with flavors in beer: anise, cumin, dill, fenugreek, mustard, poppy, and grains of paradise, for example. Many of these also respond well to roasting, and can develop distinctive flavors and aromas possibly tying in more comprehensively with esters and malt. Fenugreek, for example, develops a maple note when roasted and is, in fact, a constituent ingredient in artificial maple syrup; cumin too becomes something altogether different when tossed in a hot pan or roasted in the oven.
Largely because of their variety, peppercorns deserve special mention, and judiciously used can contribute an array of flavor (and otherwise sensory) notes to IPA. Green, black, and white peppercorns, of course, are different guises of a single organism (immature, mature, and husked, respectively), whereas pink peppercorns are of a different plant altogether and offer a distinctive and very different effect. More so than other peppercorns, Sichuan pepper responds well to roasting; do not, however, attempt this if all you can get is the ground product (the Geneva Convention, I believe, has rules governing procedures like this). Sichuan pepper carries a cultural connotation as well and, like some of the constituent spices of curry, could be combined for harmonic and conceptual effect.
The fact that so many different kinds of chilies in so many different forms are available alongside spices in the aisles and catalogs of specialty merchants makes it at least expedient to include these vegetables in our consideration of spicing IPA. For chili peppers such as cayenne, ancho, and the various New Mexico varieties, roasting, drying, and milling renders their form, use, and effect into something more like spicing than anything else. The earthiness and sweetness of milder types and the heat of the fiercer ones offer an array of both flavor and sensation that, if such things are to your taste (and that of your customers), can combine in interesting ways with the sweet, bitter, and otherwise aromatic qualities of an IPA thoughtfully conceived and executed to incorporate them. The general notion of chilies in beer has both its adherents and its detractors, having mostly to do with (in my opinion) the fact that many examples of chili beers in the past have been turned with a pretty heavy hand. Like hop bitterness imparted to extremes, over-Scovillization of both food and beer is a phenomenon frequently linkable to dubious machismo. More subtly manipulated and introduced in artful combination, chilies in IPA can be a delicious, even indefinable, element. Once again, it’s all about balance. Like peppercorns in all their chromatic variation, chilies can provide both flavor and heat.
I’ve alluded here and there to the grinding of spices, chilies, and herbs to enhance their efficacy, and perhaps a few more words on the subject are warranted. Like coffee, freshly ground is best, whenever possible, and many purveyors will grind things freshly for you. On a large scale, perhaps, one might choose to trust the packaging methods of a reputable merchant to keep from having to grind or mill vast quantities of such things on arrival. Just the same, in such situations you might want to consider using a dedicated hammer mill, though it’s a good idea to be mindful of resins and oils, which can literally gum up the works. One advantage of such treatment is that the resulting powders can be directly added, unbagged, at stages like the whirlpool without fear of clogging heat exchanging hardware. This is especially effective for dried herbs and flowers.
As with all other ingredients, freshness is a watchword where herbs, spices, flowers, shoots, and the like are concerned. We should probably all clear out our cupboards, given the inevitable age of the herbs and spices therein, and restock them with new stuff. As with making beer itself, supplies should be closely tailored to usage in order to make sure that what we cook and brew with, and drink, are the best and most effective they can be.
As with many of the other ingredients we discuss in connection with augmentation of IPA, the subject of herbs and spices sprawls across classifications and practical uses. Once again, the charts later in this chapter will offer a more complete presentation and analysis (tables 4.1 and 4.2).
IPA RECIPES WITH HERBS AND SPICES
Avatar Jasmine IPA (For 5 US gallons [19 L])
Jasmine IPA
GRAIN BILL
HOPS
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
YEAST
Green Dragon IPA (For 5 US gallons [19 L])
Marijuana IPA
Thanks to Ryan Thomas of Hop Barley and the Alers homebrewing club in Colorado.
GRAIN BILL
TINCTURE
(For 20 U.S. gallons [76 L] beer)
CAUTION: USE ONLY ONE-QUARTER OF THIS AMOUNT FOR 5 GAL. (19 L) OF BEER. The above instructions are to make production manageable. THIS IS ENOUGH TOTAL TINCTURE FOR 20 GAL. (76 L) OF BEER.
HOPS
WATER
YEAST
BREWING NOTES
Pods and Sods IPA (For 5 US gallons [19 L])
Tamarind Kaffir Lime IPA
GRAIN BILL
HOPS
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
YEAST
BREWING NOTES
Tamarind is sold as whole pods, in a block like old-fashioned chewing tobacco, or as concentrate in liquid form. The first two involve processing and straining, the third does not.
June of ’66 IPA (For 5 US gallons [19 L])
Rosemary IPA
GRAIN BILL
HOPS
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
YEAST
Shiso Fine IPA (For 5 US gallons [19 L])
Shiso Pink Peppercorn IPA
GRAIN BILL
HOPS
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
YEAST
The Cs Knees IPA (For 5 US gallons [19 L])
Gin Botanical IPA
Thanks to Jason Parker of Copperworks Distilling, Seattle, Washington for help with proportions of botanicals.
GRAIN BILL
HOPS
YEAST
BREWING NOTES
Thyme Has Come Today IPA (For 5 US gallons [19 L])
Fresh Thyme IPA
GRAIN BILL
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
YEAST
BREWING NOTES
ADDITIONAL NOTES
I like thyme quite a bit by itself, but it combines endlessly with other herbs and a lot of fruits.
Table 4.1 List of herbs and botanicals and their attributes for use in brewing IPAs
| Herb | Form(s) | Attributes | Combinations | Additions | Issues/Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Alfalfa |
Fresh, dried |
Grassy; fermentable when green |
Fruit, malt |
Mash as fermentable when fresh; grassy aromatic when dried |
Quirky, perishable, a conceptual statement |
|
Aloe vera |
Pureed, gelatinized |
Bitter |
In balance with hops |
Fermentation |
Used in Italian amaro |
|
Basil |
Fresh, dried |
Minty, sweet, perfumy, herbal |
Citrus, stone fruit; mildly cooperative with hop aromas; chilies |
Bagged and steeped on cold side; conditioning |
Should be a good lurker behind malt sturdiness and hop aroma; steep in hot water to experiement |
|
Bay laurel |
Dried leaves |
Musty-herbal |
Citrus, chili, thyme |
Whirlpool to soften and volatilize; cold conditioning |
A leafy-herbal note, should not dominate |
|
Bayberry |
Crushed berries |
Fruity-floral |
Flowers |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Waxy and floral-smelling |
|
Birch |
Sap or syrup |
Lightly minty |
Berries, apples |
Fermentation, cold conditioning |
An intriguing touch—minty without being mint |
|
Blackberry leaf |
Dried, tea |
Fragrant, fruity, sweet |
Citrus, stone fruit, flowers, hops |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Heady and aromatic |
|
Bog myrtle (sweetgale) |
Dried |
Musty, bitter |
Other bitter herbs; yeast phenols |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Traditional in gruit as bittering agent |
|
Borage |
Fresh or dried flowers |
Cucumber |
Citrus, pineapple, cucumber |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Mild cucumber aroma |
|
Burdock root |
Fresh or dried |
Carrot, turnipy |
Aromatic herbs, shiso |
Mash; infusion added to conditioning |
Quieter than carrot, less cabbagey than other root vegetables |
|
Calendula |
Dried flowers |
Chamomile-like, quiet |
Tropical fruit, tea |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Mustily herbal, buttery |
|
Chamomile |
Dried leaves |
full-flavored and marigold-like, buttery |
Lavender, other tea herbs, lemon, orange |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Somewhat polarizing, not for everyone |
|
Dried leaves |
Musty, resinous, and pungent; mildly sage-like |
Stone fruit, cactus, kiwi |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Evocative of the desert |
|
|
Chervil |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Sharp, creosote, oregano-like |
Basil (to mitigate sweetness), thyme |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Best in combination rather than alone |
|
Chives |
Fresh or dried |
Mildly oniony and green |
Some hops as an accent |
Cold conditioning (hot side too strong) |
Use carefully; also could be French press-infused with finished beer |
|
Cilantro (coriander leaf) |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Sharp and soapy |
Citrus peel, curry spices, sweet herbs |
Cold infusion |
A sharply herbal addition—nervy |
|
Curry leaf |
Fresh leaves |
Citrus-like, anise, lemongrass |
Citrus, ginger, cardamom, turmeric |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Bruise and perhaps dry-fry leaves before using; an intriguing savory flavor |
|
Dill |
Fresh or dried |
Musty-herbal |
Cucumber, lemon, peach, mango |
Cold conditioning |
Very distinctive and tradition-bound—try something new to combine with it |
|
Echinacea |
Dried flowers |
Floral, bitter |
Lemon, elderberry, mint |
Whirlpool |
Strong flavor best used in combination |
|
Elderflower |
Dried flowers |
Floral, a haunting aroma of honey |
Berries, but a good stand-alone |
Whirlpool |
St. Germain, need I say more? But great in beer |
|
Epazote |
Fresh or dried |
Resinous, mildly sharp |
Squash, lime, chili |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Dried easier to get, but fresh more lively |
|
Fennel |
Chopped or pureed bulbs; fresh fronds; whole or ground seeds; flowers |
Licorice; bulb somewhat celery-like; leaves a cross between anise and dill |
Licoricey hops, stone fruits |
Fronds in mash or cold side; pureed bulbs in fermentation; flowers and seeds in cold conditioning |
Many ways to play it, varying intensities |
|
Garlic chives |
Fresh |
More garlic aroma than regular chives |
Garlic or oniony hops, oregano |
Cold conditioning |
See Chives |
|
Dried root |
Extremely bitter |
Hops, other bitter herbs |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Classic bittering ingredient in amaro, Angostura bitters, Underberg, and other liqueurs; also Moxie |
|
|
Hawthorn |
Berries |
Apples, tart |
Other berries, rose hip |
Whirlpool; cold infusion of crushed berries |
Tart and somewhat bitter; in the rose family |
|
Heather |
Fresh or dried flowers |
Mildly perfumy and evergreen |
Malt, flowery hops, mild teas |
Mash for a beautiful sparkle and aromatic wort; whirlpool; cold infusion in conditioning |
Fragile aroma driven off by heat, most haunting on the cold side |
|
Hibiscus |
Dried flowers |
Tart, sour |
Sour treatments, tropical fruit |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Haunting tart addition |
|
Honeysuckle |
Fresh or dried flowers |
Perfumy and sweet |
Citrus, stone fruit; quieter hop aromas |
As late as possible—fragile |
They’ll never smell as good as they do on the bush, but still worth trying |
|
Horehound |
Dried flowers |
Bitter |
Other bitter herbs |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
One of Passover’s bitter herbs; also once thought to be anti-magical |
|
Hyssop |
Fresh leaves |
Herbal-anise, camphor, pine |
Herb blends |
Cold conditioning |
An anise-like element to an herbal blend |
|
Jasmine |
Dried flowers |
Floral, grapey |
Floral hops, other flowers |
Late boil or whirlpool for infusion |
Can vary in intensity from strawlike to grapey |
|
Juniper |
Branches |
Evergreen perfume, resinous bite |
Hops; other gin botanicals, e.g., orris, coriander; flower teas |
Branches in brewing liquor or mash (also cold infusion in conditioning); berries late hot side or cold infusion |
Cut branches fairly small for mash addition, otherwise beware runoff and mash-out; sterilize and hang whole branches in cold conditioning; beware poisonous varieties |
|
Kaffir lime |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Savory citrus |
Lemongrass, ginger and galangal, coriander |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Nice addition to a concept IPA |
|
Fresh or dried flowers |
Grandma aroma |
Hops, other flowers; citrus peel or fruit |
Cold conditioning |
Polarizing—lovely to some, soapy to others |
|
|
Lemon verbena |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Terpenic and lemony |
Fenugreek, caraway, hops, ginger |
Late boil, whirlpool, cold infusion |
Mild and pleasantly multi-dimensional; native to Argentina |
|
Lemongrass |
Chopped stalks |
Lemony-tropical—compelling |
Tamarind, turmeric, ginger |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Haunting, compelling, a natural |
|
Licorice root |
Chopped root |
Anise, celery |
Continental hops, citrus, stone fruit |
Mash, whirlpool, cold infusion |
Strong and earthy, could be a nice back note |
|
Lovage |
Fresh leaves |
Sharp, bold, cilantro-celery |
Pepper, resinous hops |
Cold infusion |
Very bold, try it first in combination with cold food |
|
Maple |
Sap or syrup |
Mild sweetness (sap); bold, no-doubt-about-it maple (syrup) |
Hops, wood aging, nut tannins |
Sap as brewing liquor; syrup in fermentation |
Requires subdued use to avoid conceptual slavishness |
|
Marjoram |
Dried leaves |
Resinous, quietly oregano-like |
Chives, basil, thyme, mint |
Late boil, whirlpool, cold infusion |
|
|
Meadowsweet |
Dried leaves and flowers |
Tannic, astringent, aromatic |
Other flowers, mild herbs |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Also contains salicylic acid (constituent of aspirin) |
|
Mint |
Fresh leaves |
Well, minty, but many varieties |
Citrus; apple and pear |
Cold infusion |
Not often successful, but I still believe . . . |
|
Myrrh |
Resin chunks |
Perfumy and resinous, bitter |
Floral herbs |
Whirlpool—heat needed to dissolve |
Strong perfume, could work |
|
Oregano |
Fresh or dried |
Resinous, especially Mexican |
Basil, marjoram |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Resinous note can tie in with hops, but can dominate |
|
Roots, extract |
Floral, herbal |
Anything else herbal or botanical; also acts as a fixative, a joiner of other elements |
Cold conditioning |
A flavor binder in addition to its own flavor/aroma |
|
|
Patchouli |
Leaves |
Inescapably aromatic |
Marijuana, sandalwood |
Shouldn’t get any closer than the barstool and then only if paying for beer |
Almost universally loathed, but it is a natural aroma |
|
Pennyroyal |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Minty |
Pepper, sage |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
An often wild mint, used in teas |
|
Pine |
New bright green tips |
Resinous, evergreen |
Hops, flower teas |
Cold conditioning |
Unmistakable evergreen character |
|
Pineapple sage |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Pineapple |
Citrus, pineapple, other tropical fruits |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Leaves smell like pineapple |
|
Queen Anne’s lace |
Root |
Carroty |
Other aromatic roots, caraway |
Mash, whirlpool, cold infusion |
Nice touch for a foraged beer |
|
Rose |
Dried flowers |
Roselike |
Anything stronger to reduce it to an accent |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Careful, but if you’re a rose fan . . . |
|
Rose hip |
Chopped fresh |
Mildly floral, tart, lemony |
Berries, apples (related), pink peppercorns |
Cold conditioning |
Nice tart addition, mild |
|
Rosemary |
Branches or separated needles |
Resinous, piney, woodsy |
Thyme, sage; smoke, wood |
Branches in mash and cold conditioning; bagged needles in whirlpool |
Use a lot, especially if it grows easily where you live |
|
Sage |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Musty, resinous |
Citrus, stone fruit, berries, thyme, mints |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Distinctive—a commitment |
|
Whole, broken, or ground leaves |
Complex, spicy, rich, camphor-like |
Thyme, persimmon, pineapple |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
The heart of the flavor of filé gumbo |
|
|
Schisandra |
Berries |
Tart, intense, take-charge |
Wood treatments; sweet fruits |
Mill and add to boil, whirlpool, or fermentor |
Claim to fame is that it covers all five flavors |
|
Shiso |
Fresh or dried leaves; alcohol infusion |
Bold, dominant, pleasantly meaty |
Citrus, peach, plum, salt |
Cold conditioning, either chopped leaves or an alcohol infusion |
Unfamiliar enough to many to be worth a try; bold, satisfying, and unique |
|
Sorrel |
Fresh foraged leaves |
Peppery, tart, grassy |
Tart fruits, pawpaw, papaya |
Mash (if quantities permit); cold infusion |
Grassy and sharp, could provide good counterpoint |
|
Spruce |
New bright green tips |
Sweetly evergreen, mild cola flavor |
Honey, agave, hops, ginger |
Cold infusion, including in keg |
More than just pitch flavored; complex and spicy-fruity |
|
Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata) |
Fresh leaves |
Anise, carrot |
Herb blends |
Cold conditioning |
Often used in aquavit; used in blends |
|
Sweet grass (bison grass) |
Fresh or dried |
Cinnamon |
Ginger, peach |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
Also called bison grass, similar to woodruff |
|
Sweet woodruff |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Vanilla, mild cinnamon or allspice |
Malt, grassy hops |
Cold infusion |
Very mild, more grassy character when fresh; comes into its own when dried |
|
Tarragon |
Fresh or dried leaves |
Savory, distinctive |
Carrots, parsnips |
Cold infusion |
Twice as strong when dried |
|
Thyme |
Fresh or dried |
Minty, resinous, aromatic |
Berries, stone fruit |
Late boil, whirlpool, cold infusion |
A must-use herb for IPA, works hand in glove with hops |
|
Tobacco |
Whole fermented leaves |
Full, rich, scary |
Stone fruit, persimmon, basil, thyme |
Cold infusion |
Certainly not approved for commercial use, but a hearty, alarmingly rich depth of flavor |
|
Fresh or dried leaves |
Soapy, sharp |
Citrus peel, curry spices, sweet herbs |
Cold infusion |
Similar to regular coriander, but flourishes in heat |
|
|
Violet |
Dried or candied flowers |
Floral, haunting, identifiable |
Citrus, stone fruit |
Whirlpool or cold infusion |
A statement, but could combine very nicely |
|
Wormwood |
Dried leaves |
Anise, menthol effect |
Other anise herbs for combination with anise-flavored hops |
Cold conditioning |
Also anti-microbial; good for an absinthe-concept IPA |
|
Walnut |
Outer husks |
Tannic, a splash of brown color |
Sage, thyme, ginger; wood treatments |
Cold infusion |
A puckery touch—easy there |
|
Yarrow |
Dried leaves/needles |
Minty, pleasant, mildly rosemary-like |
Other gruit herbs |
Cold infusion |
Traditional bittering herb |
Table 4.2 List of spices and their attributes for use in brewing IPAs
| Spice | Form(s) | Attributes | Combinations | Additions | Issues/Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Allspice |
Seeds crushed or ground |
Sweet and clove-like |
Sassafras, aromatic hops |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Strong, fruit aroma and flavor, should be used sparingly in IPA |
|
Angelica |
Roots and seeds |
Carroty, dill-like |
Other bitter herbs |
Cold conditioning |
A common gin botanical, related to carrot and Queen Anne’s lace |
|
Anise (aniseed) |
Seeds whole or ground |
Licorice |
Some medium-alpha Continental hops |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
A complement to hops and other bitter herbs |
|
Annatto |
Seeds whole or ground |
Earthy, slightly peppery |
Probably only a back note |
Whirlpool |
Mainly used as a coloring (poor man’s saffron) |
|
Asafoetida |
Leaves; powdered (more likely) |
Compelling sour-oniony taste |
Indian spices |
Whirlpool |
Interesting, indefinable flavor; acts as a flavor enhancer |
|
Caraway |
Whole or ground |
Rye bread/aquavit, carroty, grassy and sharp |
Pepper, dill, cilantro, coriander |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Strong flavor, works well in herbal combination—take courage! |
|
Cardamom |
Whole pods or ground |
Musty and strongly-flavored, but interesting alone or with other spices |
Other Indian or Mexican spices, stone fruits |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Could provide a nice, indefinable accent |
|
Cardamom, black |
Pods crushed or ground |
Smoky (since heat-cured), gingery-spicy |
Slovenian hops, coriander |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Interesting smoky spice—gotta be a place for it |
|
Cardamom, green |
Pods crushed or ground |
Gingery-spicy |
Other Indian spices, Continental hops |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
A spicy sharpness quieter than many others |
|
Cascarilla |
Bark pieces whole or ground |
Bitter, compelling |
Bittering hops, thyme, tobacco |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Used in bitter aperitifs; once used as an additive to cigarettes |
|
Crushed sticks or ground |
Dominant, recognizable |
Apple or pear; other curry spices |
Boil, whirlpool, cold conditioning |
A bold statement, test before committing |
|
|
Cassia (Chinese cinnamon) |
Whole sticks crushed or ground |
Less ethereal, more workmanlike than cinnamon |
Same as cinnamon, but choose for yourself |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Double roll, thicker bark than “true” cinnamon; typically used in bolder, more savory dishes than cinnamon |
|
Cinnamon |
Whole sticks crushed or ground |
Spicy, sharp, and satisfying |
Malt touches, wood aging |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Typically used in sweeter dishes than cassia; many origins, Vietnamese the hottest—easy there |
|
Cloves |
Whole or ground |
Heady, strong spiciness |
The effect is akin to charred wood |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Could theoretically work with the precisely right hop combination, but I’m skeptical |
|
Coriander |
Seeds whole or ground |
Perfumy |
Citrus peel, curry spices, sweet herbs |
Late boil or whirlpool, cold infusion |
Traditional in other styles; its use in IPA would be offbeat |
|
Cubeb berries |
Crushed or ground |
Peppery, resinous, with a tang |
Other gin botanicals, other peppercorns |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
An unusual pepperiness |
|
Cumin |
Whole seed or ground |
Smoky, warm, spicy-sweet |
Other Indian or Mexican spices, stone fruits |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Also try dry roasting whole seeds before grinding |
|
Dill seed |
Whole seed or ground |
Sharp, vegetal |
Cucumber lemon; Sorachi Ace hops |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Easy does it; could tie in with certain hop varieties |
|
Fennel seed |
Whole seed or ground |
Licorice, milder than anise |
Coriander; Continental hops |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
A quieter, approachable licorice flavor |
|
Fenugreek |
Ground seeds |
Maple-like, especially when roasted |
Squash, evergreen tips |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Used in manufacture of artificial maple syrup |
|
Galangal |
Peeled and chopped |
Very sharp, woody to use |
Thai spices, root vegetables, pumpkin |
Fermentation |
Very hot when concentrated by juicing |
|
Peeled and chopped, powdered, or juiced |
Hot and tingly |
Squash, carrot, stone fruit |
Juice for brightest flavor on cold side; more solid, less aromatic touches in whirlpool or fermentation |
Odd choice for IPA, but could combine with distinctive and sharp hop flavors/aromas |
|
|
Grains of paradise |
Ground seeds |
Jasmine, citrus, ginger, pepper |
Other pepper, practically any fruit |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
A nice addition to many beers; very difficult to crush or mill |
|
Horseradish |
Fresh, grated root |
Sharp and peppery-aromatic |
Bold hops, chamomile |
Cold conditioning—mash or other hot addition might beat down sharpness |
A knife’s edge kind of thing—could prove interesting in IPA |
|
Juniper berries |
Crushed or powdered |
Piney, resinous, aromatic |
Piney hops, myrrh, anise, cubeb, other gin additives |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Easy to use and evaluate, a natural addition to IPA |
|
Long pepper |
Whole, crushed, or ground |
Hot, fruity |
Other peppers, allspice, cumin |
Cold conditioning |
Recently discovered for beer, fruity heat somewhat unique |
|
Mace |
Ground husks |
Husk of nutmeg, so similar, but a bit different |
Nutmeg (for complexity), other spice, flowers |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Doesn’t scream IPA to me, but could be a back note |
|
Mustard |
Whole or ground |
Pungent, hearty (different colored seeds) |
Cumin, caraway |
Cold conditioning |
Out there, but some type of mustard could be intriguing |
|
Nigella seed |
Whole or ground |
Nutty, oniony |
Savory food, mainly, but perhaps other pepper or spice |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Could have interplay with hops as a very quiet touch |
|
Nutmeg |
Grated or ground |
Aromatic, quintessentially spicy and warm |
Some other style, in all likelihood (see mace) |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Might combine with hop and herb terpenes |
|
Crushed or ground |
Hot, with bonus numbing effect |
Stone fruit, apples, tropical fruits |
Cold infusion |
An effect as much as a flavor; could work well with other sweet effects |
|
|
Peppercorn, black |
Whole or ground |
Well, peppery |
Citrus, other fruit, other pepper varieties |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Can liven anything up, perhaps even IPA |
|
Peppercorn, green |
Whole or ground |
Not quite as hot as black, hotter than white |
Spicy hops, other peppers in blend |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
The less ripe form of black pepper |
|
Peppercorn, white |
Whole or ground |
Bright and sparkly, milder than either black or green |
Pink peppercorn, cucumber, carrot |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
The gentlest peppercorn—could be worked in for a nice sparkly effect without dominance |
|
Peppercorn, pink |
Crushed or ground |
Mildly hot, sweetly fragrant and a bit gummy |
Long pepper, thyme, white pepper |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Fragile—the later the addition the greater the effect |
|
Poppy seed |
Whole or ground |
Oily, musty, bready |
Lightly colored malts |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Interesting; unusual in beer, especially IPA |
|
Saffron |
Threads |
Indefinable, heady; pinky-orange color |
Mild ginger, sour treatment |
Cold infusion |
Fun; expensive, but lower-grade medicinal stuff more reasonably priced |
|
Star anise |
Whole or ground |
Sweet anise, strong |
Fruit, pepper |
Cold infusion |
A little goes a long way |
|
Sumac |
Powdered |
Tart, lemony |
Where you might use lemon |
Whirlpool, cold conditioning |
Easily foraged, and easily differentiated from poisonous non-related namesake; very difficult to infuse, even in alcohol—patience! |
|
Turmeric |
Grated, powdered, or juiced |
Amazing orange color; mild herbal sharpness |
Ginger, citrus, mint, apple |
Cold conditioning |
Flavor will creep to the corners, nice color addition |
|
Wasabi |
Grated, paste, or powdered |
Sharp, nose-filling |
Ginger |
Cold conditioning |
Root very expensive; radical move |