Jílín
Jílín
pop 27.46 million
Why Go?
A flirty province, Jílín (吉林) teases with the ancient and the modern, the artificial and the supernatural. Travellers tired of great walls and imperial facades can explore Japanese-influenced architecture on the trail of the puppet emperor Puyi and the ruins of an ancient Korean kingdom. In fact, much of the far-eastern region comprises the little-known Korean Autonomous Prefecture, home to more than one million ethnic Koreans. Kimchi and cold noodles dominate the menu here and there’s an easy acceptance of outsiders.
Although known for its motor cities and smokestack towns, Jílín is also a popular ski destination and boasts China’s largest nature reserve. So go for the contrasts? No, go for the superlatives. Heaven Lake, a stunning, deep-blue volcanic crater lake within the country’s largest reserve, is one of China’s most mesmerising natural wonders. Yes, Jílín can be a little rough around the edges at times, but its rewards are pure polished jewels.
When to Go
AJun–Sep Best months to visit Chángbái Shān.
AJul–Aug Countryside around the Korean Autonomous Prefecture at its most bucolic.
ANov–Mar Ski season at Běidàhú Ski Resort.
Jílín Highlights
1 Chángbái Shān Nature Reserve Visiting China’s largest nature reserve, with its waterfalls, birch forests and, most of all, the aptly named Heaven Lake.
2 Běidàhú Ski Resort Hitting the slopes at one of China’s premier skiing spots.
3 Koguryo Kingdom Exploring the mysterious remains of this ancient kingdom in Jí’ān, just across the Yālù River from North Korea.
4 Imperial Palace of the Manchu State Shadowing the trail of Puyi, the last emperor of China, immortalised in film, at this palace in Chángchūn.
5 Yánjí Savouring China’s ethnic Korean culture in the capital of the Korean Autonomous Prefecture.
History
Korean kings once ruled parts of Jílín, and the discovery of important relics from the ancient Koguryo kingdom (37 BC–AD 668) in the small southeastern city of Jí’ān has resulted in the area being designated a World Heritage Site by Unesco.
The Japanese occupation of Manchuria in the early 1930s pushed Jílín to the world’s centre stage. Chángchūn became the capital of what the Japanese called Manchukuo, with Puyi (the last emperor of the Qing dynasty) given the role of figurehead of the puppet government. In 1944 the Russians wrested control of Jílín from the Japanese and, after stripping the area of its industrial base, handed the region back to Chinese control. For the next several years Jílín would pay a heavy price as one of the front lines in the civil war between the Kuomintang and the Chinese Communist Party (CCP).
Jílín’s border with North Korea has dominated the region’s more recent history. As of 2012, there were an estimated 200,000 North Korean refugees in China. The Chinese government has not looked favourably on these migrants, refusing to grant them protected refugee status and has deported those discovered by the authorities.
A goal has been set to begin transforming Jílín into a biopharmaceutical powerhouse. The first milestone will be the industry contributing 7% to Jílín's total GDP by 2020.
Climate
Jílín is bitterly cold during its long winter, with heavy snow, freezing winds and temperatures as low as -20°C. In contrast, summer is pleasantly warm, especially along the coastal east, but short. Rainfall is moderate.
8Getting There & Around
The airport connects Chángbái Shān with Chángchūn and other major Chinese cities.
The rail and bus network connects all major cities and towns. High-speed D and G trains link Chángchūn with cities south to Shěnyáng, Dàlián and Dāndōng; north to Harbin and Qíqíhā'ěr; and east to Chángchūn, Jílín City and Yánjí.
Chángbái Shān Nature Reserve 长白山
Chángbái Shān (长白山; Ever-White Mountains), China’s largest nature reserve, covers 2100 sq km (densely forested) on the eastern edge of Jílín. By far the region’s top attraction, the park’s greenery and open space offers a welcome contrast to Jílín’s industrial cities.
The centrepiece of Chángbái Shān is the spellbinding Heaven Lake, whose white frozen surface melts into azure waters stretching across an outsized volcanic crater straddling the China–North Korea border come summer. Heaven Lake’s beauty and mystical reputation, including its Loch Ness–style monster (guàiwu), lures visitors from all over China, as well as many South Koreans. For the latter, the area is known as Mt Paekdu, or Paekdusan. North Korea claims that Kim Jung-il was born here (although he’s believed to have entered the world in Khabarovsk, Russia).
At lower elevations, the park’s forests are filled with white birch, Korean pines and hundreds of varieties of plants, including the much-prized Chángbái Shān ginseng. Above 2000m the landscape changes dramatically into a subalpine zone of short grasses and herbs. Giant patches of ice cover parts of the jagged peaks even in mid-June, and mountain streams rush down the treeless, rocky slopes. With the lake at an altitude of nearly 2200m, visitors should be prepared for lower temperatures. It might be sunny and hot when you enter the reserve, but at higher altitudes strong winds, rain and snow are possible.
Though you can visit most of the year, the best time to see the crater (and be assured the roads are open) is from June to early September.
Wanda Chángbái Shān International ResortSKIING
(万达长白山国际度假区, Wàndá Chángbái Shān Guójì Dùjià Qū 
%0400 098 7666; www.wanda-group.com/2013/videos_0721/1.html; 455 Baiyun Lu, 白云路455号 )
About 15km from the local airport, this resort has 20 runs over two mountains with some decent hiking in summer. Certainly, the skiing is superlative in the winter.
Accommodation is widely available and most travellers stay in the scruffy gateway towns of Báihé and Sōngjiānghé.
The gateway town for the Northern Slope is Báihé; for the Western Slope it is Sōngjiānghé. It is possible to take buses or trains here from Chángchūn, Yánjí, Tōnghuà and Shěnyáng.
Chángbáishān Airport, halfway between the reserve and Sōngjiānghé, has flights to/from Shànghǎi, Chángchūn and Běijīng.
Báihé 白河
%0433
The views of Chángbái Shān from the Northern Slope (北坡; Běi Pō) are the best and most popular. The gateway town for this area, where travellers have to stay, is Èrdào Báihé (二道白河), generally known as Báihé. The town continues developing with roads and new buildings being upgraded to meet the increased tourist traffic.
1Sights
You can see all of the sights on the Northern Slope in a day.
Heaven LakeLAKE
(天池, Tiān Chí )
The jewel of the area, this heavenly blue lake seems impossibly elevated by a ring of 16 mountainous peaks. The dormant crater lake, 13km in circumference, was formed around AD 969. A fixed route takes you around part of the crater lip with panoramic views of its glorious mirrored surface, at such an altitude (2194m) that it feels other-worldly. Legend has it that the lake is home to a large, but shy, beastie with the magical power to blur any photo taken of him.
Chángbái WaterfallWATERFALL
(长白瀑布, Chángbái Pùbù )
From the bus stop, walk up to a small hot spring where you can soak your feet or buy delicious boiled eggs (cooked in the spring). Past that a 1km trail leads to the viewpoint for the magnificent 68m Chángbái Waterfall. In the past you could follow the dramatic-looking caged trail beside the falls up to the base of the Heaven Lake, but that route is now officially sealed. And don’t bother trying to sneak in; park staff will quickly call you back.
Small Heaven LakeLAKE
(小天池, Xiǎo Tiān Chí )
Grab a bus from the Chángbái Waterfall to Small Heaven Lake. Nowhere near the size or majesty of the main crater lake, this is instead a placid lake (or large pond) worth circling. You could venture off into the surrounding forests for a short hike, but don't get lost and be careful not to cross into North Korea! A boardwalk takes you along a fissure stream to the Green Deep Pool.
Green Deep PoolLAKE
(绿渊潭, Lǜ Yuān Tán )
This large, aptly named pool of water, fed by Chángbái Waterfall, is 450m ahead of the Small Heaven Lake. The beautiful milky green pool is great for photos, but not for swimming in. Cross the bus parking lot and head up the stairs to reach it. Buses run from the waterfall down to the main junction and the Underground Forest.
Underground ForestFOREST
(地下森林, Dìxià Sēnlín )
Lying between the park entrance and transport junction, this verdant woodland area, also known as the Dell Forest (谷底森林; Gǔdǐ Sēnlín), has a 3km boardwalk through the woods to the forest base and back. Allow at least 1½ hours for the walk. Buses run from here back to the junction and north gate.
4Sleeping & Eating
On your arrival at the train or bus station, touts for cheap guesthouses will likely approach. Many of these guesthouses can be found in the small lanes around town. Private rooms without bathroom go for ¥30 to ¥80. The more expensive rooms sometimes have their own computer.
There are small restaurants in all areas of Báihé. Overpriced snacks are also sold inside the park on the Northern Slope, but there are no restaurants, so it pays to bring your own supplies.
Woodland Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(望松国际青年旅舍, Wàngsōng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0433 571 0800; cbs800@126.com; Wenhua Lu, 文化路 dm/tw ¥45/100; 
a
i
W)
Set in a former hotel, the friendly Woodland offers same-sex dorms, clean twins and the usual hostel amenities such as a restaurant (dishes from ¥18 to ¥88), laundry, wi-fi and travel information. The hostel runs its own return shuttle to the North and Western slopes (¥30 and ¥70 respectively) and also sometimes offers overnight camping trips in the park.
To get here from the train or bus station, take a taxi (¥8) or ask about free daytime pick-up.
Lánjǐng Spa Holiday InnHOTEL$$$
(蓝景温泉度假酒店, Lánjǐng Wēnquán Dùjià Jiǔdiàn %0433 505 2222, 0433 574 5555; r from ¥1500; ai)
The top accommodation in the area, this 200-room European-style lodge (with obligatory touches of Chinese kitsch) is just 500m from the north gate entrance but is quietly secluded in a wooded setting off the main road. In addition to multiple food and beverage outlets, the inn features a high-end hot-spring spa with indoor and outdoor facilities. Large discounts available.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
$ Less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥400
$$$ More than ¥400
EATING
$ Less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥80
$$$ More than ¥80
8Information
The Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng Baishan Jie; 白山街 ) is on the main street in Báihé towards the end of town. It has an ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Public transport for the Northern Slope only goes as far as Báihé.
Buses leave from the long-distance bus station (kèyùnzhàn). From the train station head to the main road; the station is across and to the left. Buses include the following:
AChángchūn ¥133, 6½ hours, 6.10am and 5pm
ASōngjiānghé ¥11, two hours, 9.10am, 12.30pm and 2pm
AYánjí ¥53, 3½ hours, five daily
Train
Trains from Báihé include the following:
AShěnyáng Hard/soft sleeper ¥172/263, 13½ hours, two daily (5.35pm and 7.10pm)
ASōngjiānghé Seat ¥11, two hours, five daily
ATōnghuà Hard seat/sleeper ¥32/86, six to seven hours, four daily
8Getting Around
Bus
From Báihé train or bus station, a tourist bus (¥45) will drop you off at the flashy main entrance of the Northern Slope where you buy tickets (¥125) before proceeding to queue for a tourist shuttle (¥85) to the main transport junction/parking lot. From here you can catch a vehicle for the final 16km trek to Heaven Lake, or a shuttle to the Changbai Waterfall and other sights. Unlimited park bus rides are all included in the park's obligatory ¥85 tourist-shuttle fee, but the Heaven Lake vehicle is another ¥80 return.
From the Woodland Youth Hostel, you can take the hostel's own return shuttle (¥30, departs 8am and returns 4.30pm) to the Northern Slope entrance.
Taxi
A taxi from the train station into town costs ¥10. Taxi rides within town districts cost ¥5.
Taxis charge ¥60 to ¥70 (per car) for the one-way trip from Báihé to the Northern Slope entrance. Returning, it’s usually easy to share a taxi back (per person ¥20), but not if you leave after 5.30pm.
THE LITTLE-KNOWN KOREAN AUTONOMOUS PREFECTURE
Ask people to list some of China’s ethnic minorities and you will hear talk of Tibetans, Uighur, Mongolians, Hui and perhaps the Li or Dai. Mention that China also has almost two million ethnic Koreans, and that the majority live in their own autonomous prefecture along the North Korean border, and you’ll likely get some astonished looks.
The Yánbiān Korean Autonomous Prefecture (延边朝鲜族自治州, Yánbiān Cháoxiǎnzú Zìzhìzhōu) is the only minority prefecture in the north of China. While established in 1955, in part as a reward for Koreans who fought on the side of the communists during the Civil War, the region has in fact been settled by Koreans since the 1880s. Today, street signs are officially bilingual, much of the population is bilingual (thanks to state-sponsored Korean-language schools), TV shows and newspapers are in Korean, and fusion food is ubiquitous.
Over the past decades, however, the percentage of ethnic Koreans has dropped: from 60% in the 1950s to 38% today. In part this reflects the Chinese government’s desire to stamp out any potential for irredentism (many Koreans refer to Yánbiān as the ‘third Korea’, after the South and North) by encouraging Han migrants. More positively, it seems to indicate that the well-educated ethnic population experiences little to no discrimination in seeking employment or advancement outside the prefecture. Yánbiān may occupy a quarter of all Jílín province (it’s about half the size of South Korea), but the population is little more than two million, and opportunities are limited.
For those doing an extensive tour of northern China, consider looping up through Yánbiān as you go from Dāndōng or Chángbáishān to Harbin. The regional capital, Yánjí, is an attractive laid-back place, loaded with excellent Korean food, and the high-speed trains zoom through a bucolic landscape of corn fields, rolling forested hills and little brick villages to Harbin in four hours.
Sōngjiānghé 松江河
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Chángbái Shān’s Western Slope (西坡; Xī Pō) offers much the same experience as the Northern Slope. The set-up is fancier, but as in the north, you have little chance of getting away from the crowds.
Sōngjiānghé (松江河) is the jumping-off point for trips to the Western Slope, 40km southeast. The town is sometimes ignored by visitors who base themselves in Báihé and make day trips to this side of the reserve. They miss blankets of summer flowers and picturesque hardwood forests on the approach from this side.
The view from the crater is the main attraction, though Chángbái Shān Canyon is worth a look. There is a ¥125 admission fee for the reserve.
Chángbái Shān CanyonCANYON
(长白山大峡谷, Chángbái Shān Dàxiágǔ )
Filled with dramatic rock formations, the 70km-long, 200m-wide and 100m-deep canyon really deserves more fame, but it's tough to measure up against Heaven Lake. There's an easy 40-minute route along a boardwalk that follows the canyon rim through the forest.
Sōngjiānghé offers midrange accommodation similar to Báihé, while closer to the reserve a number of resorts have popped up in recent years, including Days Hotel Landscape Resort (蓝景戴斯度假酒店; Lánjǐngdàisī Dùjià Jiǔdiàn %0433 633 7999; r from ¥850; aiW), a stylish lodge with a lobby fireplace, high-end eating and drinking venues, and wood, glass and stone decor.
The gateway town for the Western Slope is dusty Sōngjiānghé, 40km to the northwest, from where there are buses and trains to Tōnghuà and Shěnyáng. Chángbáishān Airport, halfway between the reserve and Sōngjiānghé, has flights to/from Shànghǎi (¥1400, 2½ hours), Chángchūn (¥1000, 45 minutes) and Běijīng (¥1400, two hours).
Woodland Youth Hostel in Báihé has a return shuttle to the Western Slope for ¥70 (1½ hours). Taxis also run the route for ¥200 one way. Transport within the reserve costs ¥85.
Yánjí 延吉
%0433 / Pop 432,000
The relaxed and youthful capital of China’s Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Yánjí (延吉) has one foot across the nearby border with North Korea. About a third of the population is ethnic Korean and it’s common to both hear people speaking Korean – even switching from Mandarin midsentence – and to see Korean written everywhere, from billboards to official road signs. From this fusion springs delicious food, as most northeasterners will tell you, especially budget eats. Yánjí's well-regarded university and a sprawling high school fuel a cool, young cafe vibe, while Yánjí's air quality is as equally fresh, with locals claiming it is cleaner than Hainan's.
Yánjí is also a launching point for tours into Rason in North Korea.
1Sights & Activities
The Bù’ěrhǎtōng River (布尔哈通河; Bù’ěrhātōng Hé) that bisects the city has pleasant parks and walkways running alongside that are worth strolling on. By night the colourfully lit bridges attract young people coming to hang out.
Mào'ér MountainMOUNTAIN
(帽儿山, Mào‘ér Shān )
F
The clear favourite of Yánjí families, especially on weekends, this relatively small mountaintop is dotted with young people lounging in the woods in tents or hammocks (¥40 to buy, or ¥10 per day) or walking the 60- to 90-minute return loop to the peak. The whole way is boardwalked, and the locals in all-white outfits and high heels reflects what an easygoing ascent it is, though the last section is quite steep. The views of Yánjí are the best around, and the air is as fresh as locals claim of the city, though not crystal clear.
4Sleeping
The best area to stay in is within a few blocks of the commercial district – along Guangming Lu near the corner with Renmin Lu – though it can be noisy from 8am till 9pm. It quickly gets quieter towards the river, yet the north bus station is within walking distance. There are a few budget hotels around the scruffy train station. Isolated Yánjí West train station has nothing built-up nearby.
Green Tree InnBUSINESS HOTEL$
(格林豪泰时代广场酒店 %0433 253 2998; 56-1 Jiefang Lu, 解放路56-1号 d & tw ¥138-258, tr ¥288; W)
Occupying three high floors in the handy commercial district, this business hotel branch is a mixed bag with some tired but good-value rooms that face a shopping square and can get noisy from 8am to 9pm. Dearer rooms have small sitting rooms, newer furnishings and feel more professional.
Baishan HotelHOTEL$$$
(白山大厦, Báishān Dàshà %0433 258 8888; www.baishan-hotel.com; 66 Youyi Lu, 友谊路66号 d & tw ¥888-1088; aiW)
Just a stone's throw away from the river, the Baishan Hotel is an imposing piece of utilitarian architecture with large, comfortable rooms and friendly, efficient staff. The attached ground-floor restaurant has a large selection of excellent Korean and Chinese dishes (from ¥10). Ask for a river-facing room. Discounts knock prices down to the ¥438 range.
5Eating
Head to Guangming Lu near the corner of Renmin Lu for a busy pedestrian street with plenty of restaurants and a street market. Excellent Korean food can be easily found in the surrounding streets and alleys for blocks around. Plenty of cool Korean-run coffee shops line Aidan Lu near the corner of Juzi Lu or Renmin Lu, around the north bus station (客运北站; kèyùn běi zhàn), with decent Western food and wi-fi.
Quánzhōu Bànfàn GuǎnKOREAN$
(全州拌饭馆 142 Shenhua Jie, 参花街142号 mains ¥22-46; 
h24hr; 
paW)
A large, well-regarded restaurant for its excellent options – mainly jiàngtāng (酱汤; a bubbling pot of pork and potatoes in a miso broth), or bànfàn (拌饭; bibimbap; rice, vegetables and eggs served in a clay pot). Sit at tables or on a heated-floor booth, with good service either way. Off Renmin Lu, west riverside. Picture menu.
Rotti BunCAFE$
(2nd fl, 696 Aidan Lu, 爱丹路696号益华广场2楼 coffee ¥18-26; h9am-midnight; aW)
A lovely, modern cafe with a Korean, designer slant. There are spaces, mezzanines and closed-off rooms galore, making for a comfy place to spend hours writing postcards, social-media posts or memoirs on the free-use Macs or wi-fi. You'll need as much time to get through the bucket-sized, sweet Korean desserts.
Sān Qiān Lǐ Cold NoodlesKOREAN$
(三千里冷面部, Sānqiānlǐ Lěng Miànbù 56 Xinhua Jie, 新华街56号 cold noodles ¥15; h9am-8pm)
One of the best places to slurp down a Yánjí Korean speciality, lěng miàn (冷面; cold noodles). Order and almost immediately a large bowl of chewy bean thread noodles is served in a cold beef broth that is addictively savoury and sweet with a fresh topping of shredded cucumber and cabbage.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Nàjiā CoffeeBAR
(那家咖啡, Nàjiā Kāfēi %0433 256 1859; 2nd fl, 696 Aidan Lu, 爱丹路696号益华广场2楼 h9am-midnight)
A trendy cafe with a smoky bar side. Nàjiā is an impressive, large space with huge curved windows and a mezzanine, great for watching the well-dressed sip imported beers, or the blinking of traffic and neon outside.
8Information
ATMs are all over the city, including a 24-hour ATM at the Industrial & Commercial Bank of China (ICBC; 中国工商银行; Zhōnguó Gōngshāng Yínháng) three blocks up from the train station at the corner of Changbaishan Xilu and Zhanqian Jie.
8Getting There & Away
The Yánjí train station and Yánjí long-distance bus station are south of the river, while the commercial district and north bus station are near each other north.
Buses to Chángchūn (¥116, 5½ hours, hourly, 6am to 5pm) leave from in front of the train station or north bus station.
The Yánjí long-distance bus station (延吉公路客运总站; Yánjí Gōnglù Kèyùn Zǒngzhàn 2319 Changbaishan Xilu; 长白山西路2319号 ) serves the following destinations:
AÈrdào Báihé ¥45, four hours, six daily (6.40am to 2.30pm)
AHúnchūn ¥30, two hours, every 30 minutes (7am to 3.50pm)
AMǔdānjiāng ¥74, 4½ hours, four daily (6.30am, 9.50am, 12.10pm and 4.30pm)
Yánjí’s north bus station (延吉客运北站; Yánjí Kèyùn Běi Zhàn 743 Aidan Lu; 爱丹路743号 h5.30am-6.30pm) serves the following destination:
AMǔdānjiāng ¥74, five hours, four daily (6.50am, 10.20am, 12.40pm and 4.50pm)
Train service includes the following:
AChángchūn Hard seat/sleeper ¥70/129, eight to nine hours, five daily
8Getting Around
Shared taxis outside Yánjí West train station will take you to Yánjí train station or commercial district for ¥10 per passenger. Bus 4 (¥1) also runs to Yánjí train station. Taxi fares start at ¥5; most rides around the commercial district cost less than ¥10.
Bus 60 (¥1) links the train station, commercial district and two bus stations.
Jí'ān 集安
%0435 / Pop 240,000
This small city, just across the Yālù River from North Korea, was once part of the Koguryo (高句丽, Gāogōulì) kingdom, a Korean dynasty that ruled areas of northern China and the Korean peninsula from 37 BC to AD 668. Jí’ān’s (集安) extensive Koguryo pyramids, ruins and tombs resulted in Unesco designating it a World Heritage Site in 2004. Archaeologists have unearthed remains of three cities plus some 40 tombs around Jí’ān and the town of Huánrén (in Liáoníng province).
With a drive to capitalise on its Korean heritage’s tourism potential, modern-day Jí’ān has transformed itself into one of northern China’s more pleasant towns, with well-tended parks, leafy streets and a renovated riverfront area where you can gaze across to North Korea. Add in the town’s mountain backdrop, excellent Korean food, friendly locals and scenic train or bus rides getting here, and it’s a great little stopover on a loop through Dōngběi.
1Sights
The main sights other than the river park are scattered on the outskirts of the city and you'll need to hire a taxi. Expect to pay at least ¥100 for a three-hour circuit. You'll need to negotiate further if you want to linger at the sights.
The Unesco World Heritage site, Koguryo Mountain Cities, is a collection of tombs and the archaeological remains from three main fortress cities. The site is spread around the very lovely green hills surrounding Jí’ān. Despite their historical significance, most of the city remains don’t have a terrible amount of detail to examine. Many of the tombs are cairns – essentially heaps of stones piled above burial sites – while others are stone pyramids. But there is something magical about the open fields and high terraces they were constructed on that makes you want to linger.
The most impressive fortress city, Wándū Mountain City, is enough to give an idea of what is on offer. It takes two hours to wander the expansive grounds.
If you are keen to explore more, a ¥100 combo ticket gets you into the three most important mountain cities and a tomb site; you can also buy separate tickets for each sight for ¥30.
oWándū Mountain CityRUINS
(丸都山城, Wándū Shānchéng Shancheng Lu, 山城路 ¥30)
First built in AD 3, this city became capital of the Koguryo kingdom in 209, after the fall of the first capital, Guonei city (on the site of present-day Jí’ān). There’s little left of the original buildings, but the layout has been cleared and it’s immensely enjoyable scrambling about the terraces and taking in the views that surely must have been a deciding factor in establishing the capital here.
Down on the plains below the city, on a large shelf above the river, sits Jí’ān’s largest collection of giant stone cairns. Erected after the destruction of Wándū, this vast cemetery for the city’s noblemen is so far unaffected by mass tourism. The sight of the massive rock piles in fields of Spanish needle (Bidens pilosa) is probably the most photogenic in all Jí’ān.
Wándū is a 6.5km drive west of the train station.
Cemetery of Noblemen at YǔshānTOMB
(禹山贵族墓地, Yǔshān Guìzú Mùdì ¥30)
Scattered about a small gated park lie the stone crypts of various Koguryo-kingdom noblemen. You can enter and explore Tomb No 5 (wait for the guide) via a creepy descent underground. As your eyes adjust to the light in the chilly stone chamber, look for paintings of dragons, white tigers, black tortoises and lotus flowers on the walls and ceilings.
Jí’ān MuseumMUSEUM
(集安博物馆, Jí’ān Bówùguǎn Jianshe Jie, 建设街 ¥30; h8.30am-4pm)
The sleek museum sports a brown stone base and a glass top with sails that open up like leaves. It features a small display of artefacts from the Koguryo era with good English captions. A lovely park with stone fountains, landscaped gardens, cobbled walkways, lotus ponds and statues is located just next to the museum.
Riverside PlazaWATERFRONT
This lively modern waterfront park features riverside decks where you can view North Korea across the Yālù River. You can also take a boat ride along the river (¥50, 40 minutes). The park is stretched out along Yanjiang Lu, south of the main Shengli Lu.
Hǎotàiwáng SteleTOMB
(好太王碑, Hǎotàiwáng Bēi ¥30)
Inscribed with 1775 Chinese characters, the Hǎotàiwáng Stele, a 6m-tall stone slab that dates to AD 415, records the accomplishments of Koguryo king Tan De (374–412), known as Hǎotàiwáng. The surface is blackened from a botched restoration effort when it was rediscovered in 1877: to remove the moss covering the surface, locals smeared it with cow dung and set it alight. Tan De’s tomb (labelled ‘Tàiwáng Tomb’) is on the same site.
Jiāngjūnfén (General’s Tomb)TOMB
(将军坟 ¥30)
One of the largest pyramid-like structures in the region, the 12m-tall Jiāngjūnfén was built during the 4th century for a Koguryo ruler. The nearby smaller tomb is the resting place of a family member. The site is set among the hills 4km northeast of town.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are a dozen guesthouses with very basic rooms for ¥50 to ¥80 and a couple of better business-hotel options that are more likely to accept foreigners for ¥170 to ¥200 on Shengli Lu (outside the bus station) and on Yanjiang Lu (outside the train station). Chinese chain-hotel options are at the northern, river-park end of Liming Jie.
Head to the markets east and west of Liming Jie for fruit, dumplings, bread and barbecue. Tuanjie Lu (the parallel road north of Shengli Lu) is home to Chinese greasy spoons, while Liming Jie offers a number of hotpot and barbecue spots. Jianshe Lu near Shengli Lu has several clean Chinese fast-food joints.
Lùmíng BīnguǎnHOTEL$
(路明宾馆 %0435 622 1293; 653 Shengli Lu, 胜利路653号 d/tw ¥138-158; aiW)
Friendly staff and well-kept rooms make this Jí’ān’s best option. It’s 500m east of the bus station on the north side of Shengli Lu just before you reach Liming Jie. Look for the English sign reading ‘Guesthouse’ above the entrance. Some rooms have their own computer.
8Information
Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng 336 Shengli Lu; 胜利路336号 ) Located at the corner of Shengli Lu and Li Ming Jie; 24-hour ATM.
8Getting There & Away
The main routes to Jí’ān (not to be confused with the identically pronounced 吉安 in distant Jiāngxī province) are via Tōnghuà and Báihé (the gateway to Chángbái Shān) to the north, and Shěnyáng and Dāndōng in Liáoníng province to the west and south. If you’re travelling to Báihé by bus, you need to change in Tōnghuà. Trains are less useful as there's only one per day to Tōnghuà (¥8.50, three hours) at 11am.
Shengli Lu runs east–west through town, with the long-distance bus station (集安市客运总站; Jí'ānshì Kèyùnzǒng Zhàn 1028 Shengli Lu) at the west end. The train station (Yanjiang Lu) is 2.9km east, where Shengli Lu changes name to Yanjiang Lu.
Bus services include the following destinations:
AChángchūn ¥140, 5½ hours, three daily (5.30am, 6.25am and 2.50pm)
ADāndōng ¥95 to ¥104, six hours, two daily (7.30am and 9.20am)
AÈrdào Báihé (via Tōnghuà) ¥98, six hours, 7.30am and 1.35pm
AShěnyáng ¥96 to ¥125, six hours, three daily (6.20am, 11.20am and 2.55pm)
ATōnghuà ¥35, two hours, hourly (5am to 5pm)
Běidàhú Ski Resort 北大湖滑雪场
Běidàhú Ski ResortSKIING
(Běidàhú Huáxuěchǎng, 北大湖滑雪场 www.beidahuski.com)
Since it hosted the 2007 Asian Winter Games, Běidàhú has established itself as one of China’s premier ski resorts. Located in a tiny village 53km south of Jílín City, the resort has runs on two mountains ranging from beginner to advanced. Though it hasn’t turned a profit since 2009, Běidàhú has seen continual growth with new runs and the opening of China's second Club Med resort. For more on skiing in Běidàhú, including tour, transport and accommodation information, see China Ski Tours (www.chinaskitours.com).
Chángchūn 长春
%0431 / Pop 7.64 million
The Japanese capital of Manchukuo between 1933 and 1945, Chángchūn (长春) was also the centre of the Chinese film industry in the 1950s and '60s. Visitors expecting a Hollywood-like backdrop of palm trees and beautiful people will be disappointed, though. Chángchūn is now better known as China’s motor city, the largest automobile-manufacturing base in the country.
But for people on the trail of Puyi, China’s last emperor, it’s an essential stop. Its crossroad position, linking three provinces on the high-speed railway, makes Chángchūn a useful stopoff.
Chángchūn
1Top Sights
1Sights
There are a few historic buildings dating back to the early 20th century, mostly along and off Renmin Dajie.
oImperial Palace of the Manchu StateMUSEUM
(Puppet Emperor’s Palace, 伪滿皇宮博物院; Wěimǎn Huánggōng Bówùyuàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 5 Guangfu Beilu, 光复北路5号 ¥80; h8.30am-4.50pm, last entry 40min before closing)
This is the former residence of Puyi, the Qing dynasty’s final emperor, the basis for Bernardo Bertolucci's film The Last Emperor (1987). His study, bedroom, temple, his wife’s quarters and opium den, as well as his concubine’s rooms, have all been elaborately re-created. His American car is also on display, but it’s the exhibition on his extraordinary life, told in part with a fantastic collection of photos, that is most enthralling. An English audio guide costs ¥20. A taxi from the train station costs ¥7.
Chángchūn World Sculpture ParkSCULPTURE
(长春世界雕塑公园, Chángchūn Sìjiè Diāodù Gōngyuán Renmin Dajie, 人民大街 ¥30, shuttle vehicles per person ¥10; h8am-5pm; 
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Nestled amid 90 hectares of neat parklands with an artificial lake in the far south of the city, the Chángchūn World Sculpture Park hosts an impressive array of sculptures from Chinese and international artists. The huge park is one of Chángchūn's unsung sights and worth sniffing out. A taxi from People's Sq will cost about ¥30.
4Sleeping
There are budget hotels within walking distance of the train station and long-distance bus station at the north end of the city, with broadband-enabled rooms going for between ¥130 and ¥180. If you plan on more than an overnight in Chángchūn, however, the southern end is by far a more pleasant neighbourhood to stay in.
Home InnHOTEL$
(如家快捷酒店, Rújiā Kuàijié Jiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0431 8986 3000; 20 Changbai Lu, 长白路20号 r ¥159-209; 
nai)
If you need a spotlessly clean option near the train station, this branch of the well-run nationwide chain is a good choice. Rooms have broadband internet and there’s also a computer in the lobby for guest use.
Jinjiang InnHOTEL$$
(锦江之星, Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0431 8914 1666; 4 Mingde Lu, 明德路4号 d ¥198-248; aiW)
This branch of the smart hotel chain is just a block from Renmin Jie and a short walk from good eating and drinking around Tongzhi Jie, yet the small rooms are extremely quiet thanks to double glazing and being nestled back from the road.
oSōngyuàn HotelHOTEL$$$
(松苑宾馆, Sōngyuàn Bīnguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0431 8272 7001; 1169 Xinfa Lu, 新发路1169号 d & tw ¥498-998; aiW)
Nestled within its own park grounds, the Sōngyuàn was a former army commander's residence. Today, its heritage buildings now host tourists in plush, well-decorated rooms. Friendly staff and several good in-house restaurants (Japanese and international) seal the deal. The downside is a slightly inconvenient location. A taxi from the train station costs ¥7.
5Eating
The area surrounding Tongzhi Jie between Longli Lu and Ziyou Lu is one of the most popular parts of Chángchūn and is packed with inexpensive restaurants, music and clothing shops. Tree-lined Xikang Lu (west of Tongzhi Jie) is now an unofficial cafe street. Most of the dozen or so cafes have wi-fi and offer sandwiches and other simple meals. Guilin Lu is lined with cheap eateries and is locally famous for its street food.
M+MNOODLES$
(面面, Miàn Miàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 2447 Tongzhi Jie, 同志街2447号 noodles ¥18-22; h10am-10pm)
You can slurp down your moreish noodles hot or cold, dry or in soup, with meat or without, and with side dishes that include broccoli or Chinese spinach at this popular 2nd-floor eatery overlooking busy Tongzhi Jie. Picture menu.
Sānyú ZhúyuànSICHUAN$
(三俞竹苑
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0431 8802 8127; 2222 Tongzhi Jie, 同志街2222号 mains ¥32-88; h10am-10pm; aW
v)
The decoration starts with the lovely faux-antique interior and continues with fistfuls of chilli adorning every platter – meat, seafood, even frog. In true Sìchuān style, mildly spicy can translate to very spicy. The picture English menu also contains lots of veg and nonspicy options.
8Information
There are 24-hour ATMs all over town and in the north bus station.
AChangchun Live (www.changchunlive.com) A useful site started by long-term expats.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Chángchūn Lóngjiā International Airport (长春龙嘉国际机场; Chǎngchūn Lóngjiā Guójì Jīchǎng ) has daily flights to major cities, including Běijīng (¥900, two hours) and Shànghǎi (¥1000, 2½ hours) and also Chángbái Shān (¥1000, one hour).
Bus
The long-distance bus station (长途汽车站; chángtú qìchēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 226 Renmin Dajie; 人民大街226号 ) is two blocks south of the train station. Buses to Harbin leave from the north bus station (客运北站; kèyùn běi zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ) behind the train station. Facing the station, head left and take the underpass just past the 24-hour KFC (not to be confused with the non-24-hour KFC to the right of the train station, or the two across the street). Bus services include the following:
AHarbin ¥76, 3½ hours, 8.30am, 10am and noon
AShěnyáng ¥83, 4½ hours, 10am and 2pm
AYánjí ¥116, five hours, hourly, 7am to 5pm
Train
Avoid getting tickets for Chángchūn's west station (xī zhàn), 13km out of town. Instead use Chángchūn's main railway station (长春火车站; Chángchūn huǒchē zhàn ), which serves the following destinations.
ABěijīng (D/G trains) Seat ¥268, seven hours, eight daily
ABěijīng Hard seat/sleeper ¥129/252, eight to 16½ hours, nine daily
AHarbin (D/G trains) Seat ¥74 to ¥110, one to 1½ hours, hourly
AShěnyáng (D/G trains) Seat ¥92 to ¥145, 1½ to two hours, 33 daily
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The airport is 20km east of the city centre, between Chángchūn and Jílín. Shuttle buses to the airport (¥20, 50 minutes, every 30 minutes from 6am to 7pm) leave from the Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC; 中国民航; Zhōngguó Mínháng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0431 8298 8888; 480 Jiefang Dalu; 解放大路480号 ) on the east side of town. Taxi fares to the airport are ¥80 to ¥100 for the 40-minute trip.
Bus
Buses heading south leave from the train station bus stop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) outside the south exit. Bus 6 follows Renmin Dajie all the way to the south part of town. Buses 62 and 362 run to the Chongqing Lu and Tongzhi Jie shopping districts.
Light Rail & Metro
The Chángchūn Light Rail service is only useful for getting to Jìngyuètán National Forest Park (净月潭国家森林公园; Jìngyuètán Guójiā Sēnlín Gōngyuán ¥30; h8.30am-5.30pm). The station is just west of the train station. The opening of the Line 1 subway, passing through the train station and city centre, has seen delays but is on its way along with other lines.
Taxi
Taxi fares start at ¥5.