Shāndōng

J'nan

Zhujiayu

Tai'an

Tai Shan

Qufu

Zoucheng

Qingdo

Lao Shan

Yantai

Penglai

Shāndōng

Pop 95.8 million

Why Go?

Steeped in natural and supernatural allure, the Shāndōng (山东) peninsula on China’s northeastern coast is the stuff of legends. Its captivating landscape – a fertile flood plain fed by rivers and underground springs, capped by granite peaks and framed in wild coastline – can’t help but inspire wonder.

A lumpy-headed boy named Confucius was born here and grew up to develop a philosophy of virtue and ethics that would reach far beyond his lectures under an apricot tree. Three centuries later China’s first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, would climb Tài Shān, Shāndōng’s highest peak, to proclaim a unified empire in 219 BC.

But Shāndōng is more than the sum of its historical parts. The energetic buzz in seaside Qīngdǎo ranks the city among the best places to live in Asia. This is Shāndōng’s real draw: you can climb mountains, feast on fine seafood, quaff beer and still find time to hit the beach.

When to Go

AJun–Aug Cool sea breezes and the beer festival make summer the time to explore Qīngdǎo.

ASep–Oct Sacred Tài Shān is gloriously shrouded in mist for just part (not all) of the day.

ADec–Jan Dress warmly and ascend Shāndōng’s frosted peaks in the dry winter.

Best Places to Eat

A Cafè Yum

A Yù Shū Fáng

A Seasons Mínghú

A China Community Art & Culture

Best Places to Sleep

A Kǎiyuè Hostelling International

A Shangri-La Hotel

A Sea View Garden Hotel

A Hóngmén International Youth Hostel

Shāndōng Highlights

1 Tài Shān Climbing the slopes of this sacred Taoist mountain, where stones speak the wisdom of millennia and views range in all directions.

2 Qīngdǎo Chilling by the sea with a pitcher (or bag) of China’s most famous brew.

3 Qūfù Perusing the ancient home town of local boy and philosophical heavyweight Confucius.

4 Zhūjiāyù Relaxing in the charming, rural vignette of this Shāndōng village.

5 Láo Shān Forging uphill in search of magical springs and Taoist secrets.

6 Yāntái Feeling the ocean breeze on your cheeks as you explore the history of this prosperous port city.

7 Pénglái Pavilion Discovering the legends of immortals, pirates and mirages.

History

Shāndōng’s tumultuous history is tied to the capricious temperament of the Yellow River, which crosses the peninsula before emptying into the Bo Sea. The ‘Mother River’ nurtured civilisation but when unhinged left death, disease and rebellion in its wake. After a long period of floods followed by economic depression and unrest, the river again devastated the Shāndōng plain in 1898.

Europeans had also arrived. After two German missionaries died in a peasant uprising in western Shāndōng in 1897, Germany readily seized Qīngdǎo, Britain forced a lease of Wēihǎi, and soon six other nations scrambled for concessions. These acts coupled with widespread famine emboldened a band of superstitious nationalists, and in the closing years of the 19th century, the Boxers rose out of Shāndōng, armed with magical spells and broadswords to lead a rebellion against the eight-nation alliance of Austria-Hungary, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Russia, the UK and the USA. After foreign powers violently seized Běijīng in 1900, the Empress Cixi effectively surrendered and Boxer and other resistance leaders were executed. The Qing dynasty would soon collapse.

It was not until Japan's surrender in WWII that Shāndōng emerged from decades of war and recovered its cities. In 1955 engineers began an ambitious 50-year flood-control program, and 1959 marked Shāndōng's last catastrophic flood, though now China's economic boom threatens to suck the Yellow River dry.

Today Jǐ’nán, the provincial capital, and the prospering coastal cities of Yāntái and Wēihǎi, all play a supporting role to Qīngdǎo, the province’s headliner.

8Getting There & Away

With South Korea and Japan just across the water, there are direct international flights through three airports – Jǐ’nán, Qīngdǎo and Yāntái. Ferries also sail from Qīngdǎo to South Korea (Incheon) and Japan (Shimonoseki), and from Yāntái to Incheon and Pyeongtaek in South Korea.

Shāndōng is linked to neighbouring and distant provinces by both bus and rail. Jǐ’nán is the transport hub, with rail connections to all major towns and cities in Shāndōng. The high-speed rail now links Jǐ’nán, Tàishān, Qūfù and Qīngdǎo to Běijīng and Shànghǎi.

8Getting Around

With rail connecting all the big towns, cities and drawcard sights, getting around Shāndōng by train is straightforward, with buses playing second fiddle, but the roads are useful for opening up the smaller corners of the province.

Jǐ'nán 济南

%0531 / Pop 3.5 million

Jǐ’nán (济南) is Shāndōng's busy and prosperous capital city, serving as the transit hub to other destinations around the province. On its surface the city is in a state of restless flux, but beneath the dusty construction and sprawl are 72 artesian springs, which gently roil in azure pools and flow steadily into Dàmíng Lake.

Jǐ'nán

1Sights

1Bàotū SpringC2

2Dàmíng LakeC1

3Five Dragon Pool ParkC1

4Great Southern MosqueB2

5Huánchéng ParkD2

6Jǐ'nán MuseumD3

7Wángfǔ PoolC1

4Sleeping

8Chéngběi Youth HostelC1

9Silver Plaza Quancheng HotelD2

10Sofitel Silver PlazaD2

5Eating

11Dàguān GardensA2

Lǔxī'nán Flavor RestaurantA2

12Seasons MínghúC1

13Yǐnhǔchí JieB2

Transport

14Airport ShuttleD2

15Bus StationA1

16Jǐ'nán Railway HotelA1

17Plane/Train Ticket OfficeA1

1Sights

Strolling among the swaying willows and quiet waterways of Jǐ’nán’s particularly lovely parks is a pleasant escape from the urban din. The most central include the most famous of them all, Bàotū Spring; Huánchéng Park, where Black Tiger Spring empties into the old city moat, the Húchéng River; and Five Dragon Pool.

Dàmíng LakeLAKE

(大明湖, Dàmíng Hú MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥30)

All the water from Jǐ’nán’s springs eventually flows into Dàmíng Lake, set within the largest park in the city, with boat rides, paddle boats, temples, bridges, and little islands to explore. In summer lotuses bloom in pink and white. The park has been a scenic site since the Tang dynasty, inspiring everyone from Marco Polo to Deng Xiaoping to wax about its beauty.

Great Southern MosqueMOSQUE

(清真南大寺, Qīngzhēn Nán Dà Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 47 Yongchang Jie; gK50, 101)F

Jǐ’nán’s oldest mosque has stood in one form or another in the centre of town since 1295. Cover arms and remove hats before entering. A lively Hui (Muslim Chinese) neighbourhood is to the north.

Xīnguóchán TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(兴国禅寺, Xīngguó Chánsì ¥5; h7.30am-4.30pm)

The oldest Buddha statues on Thousand Buddha Mountain are contained here, in this golden-roofed temple complex.

Wángfǔ PoolSPRING

(王府池子, Wángfǔ Chizi MAP GOOGLE MAP )F

In a quiet alleyway off busy, walking street Furong Jie (turn right at the police stand), the neighbourhood comes to bathe and soak in this spring-fed pool. It's a brisk 18°C year-round, so indulge in frequent barbecue and beer breaks at one of the nearby stands.

Shāndōng MuseumMUSEUM

(山东博物馆, Shāndōng Bówùguǎn %0531 8505 8201; www.sdmuseum.com; 11899 Jingshi Lu, 经十路11899号 audio tour ¥30; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; g115, 202, 18)F

The enormous provincial museum – a 7km slog east of the city centre – surveys local culture from the mesolithic age to the present. Its collection began as one of the first organised museums in China in 1904. On display are oracle bones, Qi and Lu kingdom pottery, Han tomb murals and clothing worn by the Kong clan (Confucius’ descendants).

Jǐ’nán MuseumMUSEUM

(济南市博物馆, Jǐ’nán Shì Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8295 9204; www.jnmuseum.com; 30 Jing Shiyilu, 经十一路30号 audio tour ¥10; h8.30am-4pm Tue-Sun; gK51)F

North of Thousand Buddha Mountain’s main entrance, the Jǐ’nán Museum has a small, distinctive collection that includes paintings, calligraphy, ceramics, Buddhist figures from the Tang dynasty and a delightful boat carved from a walnut shell.

Thousand Buddha MountainMOUNTAIN

(千佛山, Qiānfó Shān 18 Jingshi Yilu; admission ¥30, one way/return cable car ¥20/30, luge ¥25/30; h5am-9pm; gK51)

Beginning in the Sui dynasty (581–618), pious folk carved Buddhas into this mountain southeast of the city centre. The oldest are at Xīnguóchán Temple, the golden-roofed complex near the cable car and luge drop-off on the mountaintop. On the rare clear day looking south, you can spot Tài Shān, the anthill in the distance.

Five Dragon Pool ParkPARK

(五龙潭公园, Wǔlóngtán Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 18 Kuangshi Jie, 筐市街18号 ¥5; g5, 101)

These waters swirl up from the deepest depths of all the springs in the city to fill blue-green pools teeming with lucky carp. The park is a serene study of local life, where elders paint calligraphy on the steps and kids chase the goldfish.

Huánchéng ParkPARK

(环城公园, Huánchéng Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Nanmen Jie)F

This park on the Húchéng River is built around Black Tiger Spring (黑虎泉, Hēihǔ Quán), which empties into the old city moat through three stone tiger heads. It gets its name from the sound of the roaring water as it rushed over a tiger-shaped stone, long gone but immortalised in Ming dynasty poetry.

Bàotū SpringPARK

(趵突泉, Bàotū Quán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Baotuquan Nanlu, 趵突泉南路1号 ¥40; gK51)

This park's namesake 'spurting spring' once shot metres into the air, inspiring ancient poets and painters alike. Today, as more water has been channeled from the city's underground limestone aquifers, it arrives with more of a gurgle. Jǐ'nán's local brew proudly bears its name.

2Activities

Sightseeing BoatsBOATING

(%0531 8690 5886; per stop ¥10; hevery 20min 9am-5pm)

These fun, open-air, motorised boats circle clockwise around the lovely Húchéng River and the south side of Dàmíng Lake, making 10 stops at all the major sights including Bàotū Spring, Black Tiger Spring, Five Dragon Pool, and Quancheng Sq, as well as rising and falling several stories via two fascinating locks. It takes about 1½ hours for the full circuit.

4Sleeping

Jǐ’nán doesn't have much in the way of budget accommodation, but is reasonably well supplied in the midrange and top-end bracket. Budget hotels with rooms for around ¥160 to ¥180 are clustered around the main train station, though not all cater to foreigners and rooms vary greatly. It helps if you speak some Chinese too, but inspect the rooms first if you choose to stay here.

Chéngběi Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(城北国际青年旅舍, Chéngběi Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8691 7661; w454488201@gmail.com; 111 Bianzhi Xiang, off Quancheng Lu, 鞭指巷111号 dm ¥35-55, d ¥120; aW; g3, 5, K50)

This youth hostel in a small, converted courtyard residence is your best option for a cheap bed. Dorms and common bathrooms are decent, but the one available double room is just a mattress on the ground. There's a small bar, solid travel advice, train ticketing, organised biking trips to interesting sites in and around Jǐ'nán, and hiking gear for rent.

To get here, follow the flow of traffic, turn right off Quancheng Lu down Bianzhi Xiang, a small alley, and at the police station turn left down an even smaller alley. The hostel is through the gate with the red horse.

Silver Plaza Quancheng HotelHOTEL$$

(银座泉城大酒店, Yínzùo Quánchéng Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8692 1911; 2 Nanmen Dajie, 南门大街2号 d/tr ¥493/531; nai)

You know this is a Chinese business hotel from the blinding Euro-style bling in the lobby. Professional staff and a prime spot overlooking Quancheng Sq make up for that and the compact rooms with stained tile ceilings. Shell out for an upgrade in the renovated B-wing.

Sofitel Silver PlazaHOTEL$$$

(索菲特银座大饭店, Suǒfēitè Yínzuò Dàfàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8606 8888; www.sofitel.com; 66 Luoyuan Dajie, 泺源大街66号 r from ¥690, plus 10% service charge; nais)

This five-star hotel in the commercial district is still an excellent option, though we wish standard rooms were as spacious as the lobby suggests.

PRICE RANGES

SLEEPING

The following price ranges refer to a double room with private shower or bathroom.

$ less than ¥200

$$ ¥200–¥500

$$$ more than ¥500

EATING

The following price ranges refer to a main course.

$ less than ¥30

$$ ¥30–¥60

$$$ more than ¥60

5Eating

Jǐ’nán is a famed centre of Lǔ (Shāndōng) cuisine, characterised by bold flavours brought out by cooking over a high heat with plenty of oil and spices. Most of the best eating is had in the city’s streets and alleys.

Off Quancheng Lu’s shopping strip, Furong Jie is a pedestrian alley crammed with restaurants and food stalls.

Lǔxī’nán Flavor RestaurantSHANDONG$

(鲁西南老牌坊, Lǔxī’nán Lǎopáifāng, 大观园 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8605 4567; 2 Daguan Yuan, 大观园2号 dishes ¥28-98; h11am-2.30pm & 5-10pm)

Just inside Dàguān Gardens (大观园; Dàguān Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jing Silu; 经四路 dishes from ¥10)’ north gate, this is the place for a refined take on Lǔ (Shāndōng) cuisine. Order the down-home classics like sweet and spicy cabbage with glass noodles (¥22) and lamb (braised or sautéed, from ¥19), accompanied with sesame cakes (¥2) – not rice. Chinese menu with pictures.

Yǐnhǔchí JieSTREET FOOD$

(饮虎池街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dishes from ¥10)

Evenings are smoky on Yǐnhǔchí Jie in the Hui district near the Great Southern Mosque. Hawkers fan the flames of charcoal grills lining the street, roasting up all manner of shāokǎo (barbecue on a stick). They make crisp scallion pancakes and fresh noodles too.

Seasons MínghúCANTONESE$$

(四季明湖, Sìjì Mínghú MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 6666 9898; 7th fl, Parc66, 188 Quancheng Lu, 泉城路188号 dim sum from ¥18, mains from ¥38; h11am-10pm)

It may be a chain, but this is an elegant choice on the top of the Parc66 Mall, where dandy waiters don gloves while serving southern Chinese classics, including dim sum, salt-baked chicken and durian cakes.

8Information

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Luoyuan Dajie, 泺源大街22号 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Currency exchange/24-hour ATMs accepting foreign cards.

China PostPOST

(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 162 Jing Erlu, 经二路162号 h8.30am-6pm)

A red-brick building on the corner of Wei Erlu.

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú %0531 8508 1000, visa inquiries ext 2459; 777 Shuhuaxi Lu, 舜华西路777号 h9am-noon & 2-4.40pm Mon-Fri)

About 9km (a ¥18 taxi ride) east of the city centre.

Shāndōng Provincial Qiānfó Shān Hospital International ClinicHOSPITAL

(千佛山医院国际医疗中心, Qiānfó Shān Yīyuàn Guójì Yīliáo Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8926 8018, 0531 8926 8017; www.sdhospital.com.cn; 16766 Jingshi Lu, 经十路16766号 h8-11am & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri)

English and Japanese spoken. Take bus K51 or K68 to the Nánkǒu (南口) stop on Lishan Lu.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Jǐ’nán's Yáoqiáng Airport (%0531 8208 6666) is 40km from the city and connects to most major cities, with daily flights to Běijīng (¥630, one hour 15 minutes), Dàlián (¥502, one hour), Guǎngzhōu (¥1660, 2½ hours), Hā’ěrbīn (¥1450, two hours), Seoul (¥1034, one hour 40 minutes), Shànghǎi (¥1310, 1½ hours), and Xī’ān (¥910, one hour 50 minutes).

Bus

Jǐ’nán’s most convenient station is the main long-distance bus station (长途总汽车站; Chángtú Zǒng Qìchē Zhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8594 1472; 131 Jiluo Lu), about 3km north of the train station, though buses to destinations within the province also leave from the bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8830 3030; 22 Chezhan Jie; 车站街22号 ) directly across from the train station.

Some buses departing regularly from the main long-distance bus station:

ABěijīng ¥129, 5½ hours, nine daily (8.30am to 9pm)

AQīngdǎo ¥96 to ¥109, 4½ hours, hourly (8.10am to 9.20pm)

AQūfù ¥55, two hours, every 50 minutes (7am to 6pm)

AShànghǎi ¥266, 12 hours, four daily (10.30am, 6pm, 7pm and 8.30pm)

ATài’ān ¥25, two hours, every 30 minutes (6.30am to 6pm)

ATiānjīn ¥124, 4½ hours, six daily (9am, 9.30am, 11.40am, 2pm, 2.20pm and 9pm)

AYāntái ¥150, 5½ hours, hourly (6.30am to 9.30pm)

Train

Jǐ’nán is a major hub in the east China rail system and has several busy train stations. Most travellers can rely on the main train station (火车总站; huǒchē zǒng zhàn), a 4km ride on bus 3 (¥2) from the city centre, but there is also Jǐnán West train station (济南西站; Jǐnán Xīzhàn Dajinzhuang Lu; 大金庄路 ), which largely services high-speed trains.

Lines at the station’s ticket office can be very slow, and automatic ticket machines don't work for foreigners. Ticket offices only charge ¥5 commission and are all around the train-station square, including the plane/train ticket office (盛祥源航空铁路售票处, Shèngxiángyuán Hángkōng Tiělù Shòupiàochù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8610 9666; Quánchéng Hotel lobby, 115 Chezhan Jie; hplane 7.30am-10pm, train 8am-8pm) in the Quánchéng Hotel lobby and the Jǐ’nán Railway Hotel (济南铁道大酒店, Jǐ’nán Tiědào Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 19 Chezhan Jie, Jǐ’nán Railway Hotel lobby; commission ¥5; h8am-midnight). Chéngběi Youth Hostel can also book tickets.

Some express trains (1st-/2nd-class seat) departing from the main train station:

ABěijīng ¥330/195, two hours, frequently (7.15am to 8.02pm)

AQīngdǎo ¥145/120, two hours 40 minutes, every 10 minutes (7.20am to 8.20pm)

AQūfù ¥100/60, 30 minutes, regular

AShànghǎi ¥674/399, four hours, four daily (9.40am, 12.08pm, 4.37pm and 7.08pm)

ATài’ān ¥50/30, 24 minutes, five daily (7.26am, 9.40am, 12.08pm, 12.32pm and 5.22pm)

AWéifāng ¥80/65, one hour 20 minutes, every 20 minutes (6.09am to 8.20pm)

Some regular trains (seat/hard sleeper):

AXī’ān ¥149/264, 13 to 18 hours, six daily (11.13am to 10.36pm)

AYāntái ¥165/198, three hours 20 minutes, 12 daily (7.16am to 6.10pm)

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Airport shuttles ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %96888; adult ¥20; hhourly 6am-6pm) connect the main train station and the Yùquán Simpson Hotel with Jǐ’nán’s Yáoqiáng airport. The shuttle also runs directly to Tài'ān (¥80, two hours, eight daily from 11.30am to 8pm).

Public Transport

Bus 15 or 84 (¥1) connects the main long-distance bus station with the main train station. Bus K51 (¥2) runs from the main train station through the city centre and then south past Bàotū Spring park to Thousand Buddha Mountain.

Taxi

Taxis cost ¥8 for the first 3km then ¥1.75 (slightly more at night) per kilometre thereafter.

Water Taxi

Open-air, motorised boats circle clockwise around the lovely Húchéng River and the south side of Dàmíng Lake, making 10 stops at major sights including Bàotū Spring, Black Tiger Spring, Five Dragon Pool and Quancheng Sq, as well as rising and falling several storeys via two fascinating locks. It takes about 1½ hours for the full circuit.

Zhūjiāyù 朱家峪

%0531 / Pop 1550

Eighty kilometres east of Jǐ’nán is one of Shāndōng’s oldest hamlets. Zhūjiāyù’s (朱家峪) intact structures mostly date back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, and many have been recently spruced up to serve as movie and soap-opera sets, but strolling the stone-paved streets is still a journey back in time.

Zhūjiāyù and its bucolic panoramas of rolling hills can be explored in an easy day trip from Jǐ’nán.

Admission to the village is ¥40. You can wander on your own, though there are official, Chinese-speaking guides (¥60) and eager long-time residents (¥30) ready to show you around. Posted maps are in English.

Follow the Ming-dynasty, double-track ancient road (双轨古道; shuāngguǐ gǔdào) to the Qing-dynasty Wénchāng Pavilion (文昌阁; Wénchāng Gé ), an arched gate topped by a single-roofed shrine where teachers would take new pupils to make offerings to Confucius before their first lesson. On your left is Shānyīn Primary School (山阴小学; Shānyīn Xiǎoxué), a series of halls and courtyards with exhibits on local life.

Walk on to see the many ancestral temples, including the Zhu Family Ancestral Hall (朱氏家祠; Zhūshì Jiācí ), with packed mudbrick homesteads, and quaint, arched shíqiáo (stone bridges). The Kāngxī Overpass (康熙双桥; Kāngxī Shuāng Qiáo ) is one of the earliest examples in the world of such a traffic structure and dates from 1671. A further 30-minute climb past the last drystone walls of the village will take you to the gleaming white Kuíxīng Pavilion (魁星楼; Kuíxīng Lóu) crowning the hill.

If you want to stay overnight, an attractive idea compared to the great urban roar of Jǐnán, look for flags posting '农家乐' (nóngjiālè; a guesthouse or homestay) or '住宿' (zhùsù; accommodation). There are plenty of options in the village.

Gǔcūn InnGUESTHOUSE$

(古村酒家, Gǔcūn Jiǔjiā %0531 8380 8135; dm ¥30, d with bathroom ¥100; W)

This earthy choice has basic but clean rooms in a courtyard house with chickens roaming the yard. The friendly Zhang family running the place also cook up meals using ingredients they forage and grow in the garden (English menu, mains ¥15 to ¥40). Pass under the Kāngxī Overpass and take the low road at the split, following the bend to the left.

Humble restaurants in the village cook up excellent fare from local ingredients, although proprietors may steer you to the more expensive free-range chicken and pork.

Lǎo Yī Mín RestaurantSHANDONG$

(老衣民菜馆, Lǎo Yī Mín Càiguǎn %138 8498 9061; dishes ¥14-25)

This humble restaurant cooks up excellent fare from local ingredients. The genial owners take their yellow dog hunting for wild rabbit (¥40 per jīn) and forage for fresh mushrooms and greens in the surrounding hills. It's located about 100m past Zhūjiāyù's large Mao portrait.

Zhūjiāyù Movie ExperienceCINEMA

(incl entry ¥80; h10am Mon-Fri, 10am & 2pm Sat & Sun)

This half-hour, immersive movie experience is loosely based on the harrowing journeys of Shāndōng natives seeking opportunity.

To get here from Jǐ’nán, catch bus K301 (¥14, 1½ hours, 7am to 6.30pm) to the Jìshī Xuéyuàn (技师学院) stop in front of a large technical college. Returning to Jǐ’nán, reverse the process or flag down a bus across from the white gate on the main road. Buses back after 5pm are rare.

From the Jìshī Xuéyuàn stop, catch bus 9 (¥1) to the large white gate marking the village drop-off. It’s another 2km walk (locals offer lifts) to the tourist centre. Taxis from the college will go the whole way for ¥15.

Tài'ān 泰安

%0538 / Pop 1.1 million

The gateway to Tài Shān’s sacred slopes is the town of Tài’ān (泰安), which has had a tourist industry in full swing since before the Ming dynasty. In the 17th century, historian Zhang Dai described package tours that included choice of lodging (enormous inns with more than 20 kitchens and hundreds of servants, opera performers and courtesans), a post summit congratulatory banquet, plus an optional sedan-chair upgrade (climbing tax not included).

Tài'ān

1Sights

1Balking Horse RidgeB1

2Black Dragon PoolA3

3Cypress CaveB2

4Dài TempleC6

5Dǒumǔ HallC2

6First Gate of HeavenC3

7Geoheritage Scenic AreaC3

8Guandi TempleC4

9Hall of Heavenly BlessingC6

10Hòu Zài GateC5

11Longevity BridgeA3

12Pervading Light TempleB4

13Red Gate PalaceC3

14Wànxiān TowerC3

15Yáocān PavilionD6

16Zhèngyáng GateD6

4Sleeping

17Hóngmén International Youth HostelC4

18Ramada Plaza Tài'ānA4

19Tàishān International Youth HostelC6

5Eating

20Ā Dōngde ShuǐjiǎoC5

21Beǐxīn Snack StreetC5

22Central Night MarketC6

23Dài Běi MarketD5

24Dōngzūn CourtA4

Transport

25Airport ShuttleC4

Bus 16 to Peach Blossom ValleyB6

26Bus 19 to Tiānzhú Peak TrailheadB6

27Bus 3 – Central or Western RouteB6

28Long-Distance Bus StationB7

29Train and Plane Ticket BookingsC6

30Train and Plane Ticket OfficeC4

31Western Route Tiānwài Village Bus StopA4

1Sights

Dài TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

(岱庙, Dài Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Daimiao Beijie, 岱庙北街 adult/child ¥30/15; h8am-6pm summer, to 5pm winter)

This magnificent Taoist temple complex is where all Tài’ān roads lead, being the traditional first stop on the pilgrimage route up Tài Shān. The grounds are an impressive example of Song-dynasty (960–1127) temple construction with features of an imperial palace, though other structures stood here 1000 years before that.

Many visitors enter from the north through Hòu Zài gate (候载门 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), but entering from the south through Zhèngyáng gate (正阳门 MAP GOOGLE MAP ) allows you to follow the traditional passage through the main temple and up Hongmen Lu to the start of Tài Shān's central route ascent.

From the south end, two lions watch cars pass by on Dongyue Dajie, flanking the splendid páifāng (ornamental arch). Beyond this and the Zhèngyáng gate is the Yáocān Pavilion (遥参亭; Yáocān Tíng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6.30am-6pm).

Between the buildings, the courtyards are filled with prized examples of poetry and imperial records. Fossilised-looking bìxì (the mythical tortoise son of the dragon), dating from the 12th century onward, carry stelae on their backs documenting everything from the civil exam process to emperors’ birthdays. The Han Emperor Wudi himself is said to have planted some of the massive, twisting trees in the Cypress Tree Pavilion 2100 years ago.

The main hall is the colossal Hall of Heavenly Blessing (天贶殿; Tiānkuàng Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; shoe covers ¥1).

4Sleeping

Since you will need at least a full day to explore the mountain, spending the night in Tài’ān or at the summit is advised. It's cheaper and more comfortable to sleep in Tài’ān, and there's far more choice, although staying on the mountain naturally has its own appeal. There are many midrange options in town, mostly clustered around the Tàishān train station. Ask for discounts.

oHóngmén International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(红门国际青年旅舍, Hóngmén Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 808 6188; www.yhachina.com; 89 Hongmen Lu, 红门路89号 dm ¥45-65, s & d ¥188, tr ¥218; W; gK3, K37)

In a red courtyard building, and formerly part of the Taoist Guandi Temple next door, this fresh hostel offers the best of all worlds – the mountain within a few steps, a cafe-bar and bright rooms with all necessary conveniences including wi-fi. The very knowledgeable staff organise night climbs and advise about how to take in the sights to the fullest.

Tàishān International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(泰山国际青年旅舍, Tàishān Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 628 5196; 65 Tongtian Jie, 通天街65号 dm ¥40-60, s & d ¥100-188; aiW; g1, 4, 7, 8, 17)

This youth hostel is rather simple, with clean spartan rooms, pine furnishings and old propaganda posters, but staff are very helpful and the location is superb. Bike rental, free laundry and a bar on the 4th floor make this a pleasant experience. Look for the pair of arches just off Tongtian Jie. Discounts get rooms down to around ¥128.

Ramada Plaza Tài'ānHOTEL$$$

(东尊华美达大酒店, Dōngzūn Huáměidá Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 836 8666; www.ramadaplazataian.com; 16 Yingsheng Donglu, 迎胜东路16号 s & d ¥1160-1400, ste ¥1960-3360; naWs; g8)

This decent five-star choice in the northwest has all the usual comforts plus fantastic views of the main attraction, although service can be a bit below par. Discounts of 40%.

5Eating

There are three busy food streets in Tài'ān. The night market on the Nài River’s east bank has many hotpot stalls. Vendors on Beǐxīn Snack Street (北新小吃步行街; Běixīn Xiǎochī Bùxíng Jīe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; snacks from ¥5) set up carts for lunch (except Saturday) and dinner. Look for mántóu (馒头; steamed buns), various meats on skewers, fried chicken and more. Hawkers serve similar delights by the temple at Dài Běi Market.

Dài Běi MarketMARKET$

(贷北市场, Dàiběi Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Hawkers serve up snacks by the Dài Temple at this market, but expect tourist prices.

Ā Dōngde ShuǐjiǎoCHINESE$

(阿东的水饺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 5489 8518; 31 Hongmen Lu, 红门路31号 mains from ¥20; h9am-10pm)

This centrally located restaurant has been knocking around for years, feeding legions of travellers with Chinese staples including shuíjiǎo (水饺; dumplings), with loads of fillings including lamb (羊肉; yángròu; ¥35 per jīn – enough for two) and vegetarian tofu (豆腐; dòufu; ¥20 per jīn). The English menu is challenging, so be prepared to point (or wave your arms around).

Central Night MarketMARKET$

(夜市, Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; meals from ¥25; h5.30pm-late)

Situated in the centre of town, this night market has hotpot stalls that start cooking from late afternoon. Pick your ingredients (thinly sliced meats, fish balls, vegetables, tofu etc) and take a seat at a low table. Meals cost about ¥25 and a large jug of beer is ¥8.

Dōngzūn CourtCHINESE$$

(东尊阁, Dōngzūn Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 836 8888; 16 Yingsheng Donglu, 迎胜东路16号 mains from ¥30; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm)

Cuisine styles at this elegant and smart tablecloth affair at the Ramada Plaza are Lǔ, Cantonese and Sìchuān, with an entire room dedicated to live freshwater fish and shrimp (priced by the jīn) and freshly made spring-water bean curd (¥38).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Rather a sedate destination, Tài'ān doesn't have many bars, but you can get a beer at any of the restaurants or at the night market, where a jug of beer will set you back ¥8.

8Information

Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Daizong Jie, 岱宗街22号 h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)

Currency exchange and 24-hour ATM that accepts foreign cards.

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 116 Tongtian Jie, 通天街116号 h8.30am-4.30pm)

Currency exchange and 24-hour ATM that accepts foreign cards.

Central HospitalHOSPITAL

(中心医院, Zhōngxīn Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %822 4161; 29 Longtan Lu, 龙潭路29号 )

There's limited English here.

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 827 5264; cnr Dongyue Dajie & Qingnian Lu, 东岳大街青年路的路口 hvisa office 8.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri, or by appointment)

The visa office (出入境管理处) is on the east side of the shiny grey building.

Tourist InformationTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Taishanzhan Lu, 泰山站路 )

Tourist information office at the train station.

8Getting There & Away

Whether by road or track, most routes pass through Jǐ’nán, 80km north. Buses and trains are cheapest. Another option is picking up the airport shuttle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 850 2600; 26 Hongmen Lu; 红门路26号 adult ¥80; h5.30am, 8.30am, 10am, 1.30pm, 4.40pm) in front of the Taishan Hotel; it connects to Jǐ’nán’s Yáoqiáng airport, taking two hours.

Buy train and plane tickets at the Hongmen Lu ticket office (红门火车票代售点 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 218 7989; 22 Hongmen Lu; 红门路22号 commission ¥5; h8am-6pm), or at the ticket office (火车票代售处,空售票处 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %plane 218 3333, train 0538 611 1111; 111 Qingnian Lu; 青年路111号 h8.30am-5.30pm) on Qingnian Lu. Hostels can also help and you can also purchases train tickets online at http://english.ctrip.com/trains. Tickets sell out quickly so book early. Bear in mind that bus and train agents sometimes refer to Tài’ān and Tài Shān interchangeably.

Bus

The long-distance bus station (Old Station; 长途汽车站; Chángtú Qìchēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 218 8777; cnr Tài’shān Dalu & Longtan Lu; 太山大路龙潭路的路口 ) – locally referred to as lǎo zhàn (老站) – is just south of the train station. Buses regularly depart for the following destinations:

ABěijīng ¥164, seven hours, 11 daily

AJǐ’nán ¥27, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes (6am to 6pm)

AQīngdǎo ¥126, 5½ hours, three daily (7.40am, 9.10am and 2.30pm)

AQūfù ¥23, one hour, every 30 minutes (7.20am to 5.20pm)

AWēihǎi ¥165, seven hours, two daily (7.20am and 9am)

AYāntái ¥150, six hours, one daily (7.20am)

Train

Two train stations service this region. Tài Shān Train Station (泰山火车站; Tàishān Huǒchē Zhàn %0538 688 7358; cnr Dongyue Dajie & Longtan Lu; 东岳大街龙潭路的路口 ) is the most central, but express trains only pass through Tài’ān Train Station (泰安火车站; Tài'ān Huǒchē Zhàn %138 0538 5950; Xingaotiezhan Lu; 新高铁站路 ), sometimes referred to as the new station (新站; xīn zhàn), 9km west of the town centre.

Some regular trains (seat/hard sleeper) departing from Tài Shān Train Station:

AJǐ’nán ¥13/64, one hour, frequent (24 hours)

AQīngdǎo ¥69/126, five to seven hours, hourly (12.28am to 2.52pm)

AQūfù ¥19/29, 1½ hours, two daily (6.05am and 10.50am)

Express trains (1st-/2nd-class seat) departing from Tài’ān Train Station:

ABěijīng ¥359/214, two hours, hourly (8.05am to 9.21pm)

AJǐ’nán ¥50/30, 20 minutes, frequent (7.48am to 10.14pm)

ANánjīng ¥429/254, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes (7.24am to 8.05pm)

AQīngdǎo ¥194/149, three hours 10 minutes, six daily (11.14am, 12.54pm, 3.10pm, 5.14pm, 5.46pm and 6.32pm)

AShànghǎi ¥634/374, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes (7.24am to 7.45pm)

Tài Shān 泰山

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The Shāndōng Chinese love to boast their province has '一山一水一圣人', which means 'One mountain, One river, One saint', namely Tài Shān (泰山), the Yellow River and Confucius. If you have to choose a sacred mountain to scale in China, climb Tài Shān. The mountain and Unesco World Heritage Site has been worshipped since at least the 11th century BC. To scholars and poets it is known as Dōng Yuè (东岳), the Eastern Great Mountain, one of China's five most sacred Taoist peaks.

Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor, chose its summit to proclaim the unified kingdom of China in 219 BC. From its heights Confucius uttered the dictum 'The world is small.' Pilgrims – young, old and very old – still make their way up the steps as a symbol of their devotion to Taoist and Buddhist teachings.

It is said that if you climb Tài Shān, you will live to see 100. Beyond Qin Shi Huang, 71 other emperors and countless figures also paid this mountain their respects. To follow in their footsteps, there are four routes up to the highest peak (1532m) that can be done on foot: Central route, historically the Emperor’s Route, winds 8.9km from Dài Temple to the summit and gains 1400m in elevation; Peach Blossom Park route climbs 13km on the west side; and the least travelled 5.4km Tiānzhú Peak route goes up the back of the mountain from the east. Western route follows the 14km shuttle-bus route and converges with the Central route at the halfway point (Midway Gate to Heaven), from where it’s another 3.5km up steep steps to the summit.

If this sounds like too much for your knees, there are alternatives: cover the Western route by bus to Midway Gate to Heaven and then take the cable car to South Gate to Heaven near the summit. Reverse the journey or nab a bus to get back down.

Sights on the mountain close around 5pm. Weather can change suddenly and the summit gets very bitter, windy and wet, so bring warm layers and rain gear. Wear lightweight but durable and waterproof shoes: you don't want to be dragging heavyweight boots all the way to the top. You can buy brightly coloured rain ponchos and, at the top, rent overcoats (¥30).

As with all Chinese mountain hikes, viewing the sunrise is considered an integral part of the experience. You can either do a night hike (with torches) or, easier, stay overnight at one of the (expensive) summit guesthouses to greet the first rays of dawn.

The best times to visit are in September, when humidity is low and the sting of the summer heat has ebbed away; in early October for the clearest weather on the mountain; and in spring, to see the mountain flowers and trees in bloom, and before the summer hothouse begins.

Tài Shān

1Sights

1Archway to ImmortalityA1

2Azure Clouds TempleB1

3Cloud Step BridgeB2

4Confucius TempleA1

5God of Wealth TempleB3

6Jade Emperor TempleB1

7Midway Gate to HeavenB3

8North Gate to HeavenB1

9North Pointing RockB1

10Opposing Pines PavilionA2

11Path of 18 BendsA2

12Qīngdì PalaceB1

13South Gate to HeavenA1

14Ten-Thousand Zhàng TabletB2

4Sleeping

15Nán Tiān Mén BīnguǎnA1

16Shénqì HotelB1

17Xiānjū BīnguǎnA1

Transport

18Main Tài Shān Cable CarB3

19Peach Blossom Park Cable CarA1

20Rear Rocky Recess Cable CarB1

21Western Route Midway Gate Bus StopB3

1Climbing Tài Shān

Central Route (中路)

The Central Route has been the main route up the mountain since the 3rd century BC, and over the past two millennia a bewildering number of bridges, trees, rivers, gullies, inscriptions, caves, pavilions and temples have become famous sites in their own right. The central route is well paved so you won't need sherpas, climbing ropes, crampons or oxygen, but don’t underestimate the challenge of its 7000 knee-wrenching steps. Figure at least six hours from Dài Temple to get to the top.

As well as being a ne plus ultra stepmaster, Tài Shān functions as an outdoor museum of antiquities. Two of the most prized are Rock Valley Scripture (经石峪; Jīngshí Yù GOOGLE MAP ), in the first part of the climb, a massive inscription of a Buddhist text that was once hidden behind a waterfall, and North Prayer Rock (拱北石; Gǒngběi Shí), a huge boulder pointing skyward and a site of imperial sacrifices to heaven, at the summit.

Purists begin with a south–north perambulation through Dài Temple, 1.7km south of the actual ascent, in accordance with imperial tradition, but there is no shame in starting at the bus stop by Guandi Temple (关帝庙; Guāndì Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10), the first of many dedicated to the Taoist protector of peace. Passing First Gate of Heaven (一天门; Yītiān Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ) marks the start of the incline, though the ticket office (售票处; Shòupiào Chù GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 806 6077; h24hr) is still a way further at Wànxiān Tower (万仙楼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The Red Gate Palace (红门宫; Hóng Mén Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥5; h8am-5pm) is the first of a series of temples dedicated to Bixia – the Heavenly Jade Maiden – daughter of the god of Tài Shān.

Take a detour into the Geoheritage Scenic Area (地质园区; Dìzhí Yuánqū MAP GOOGLE MAP ) for a look at unusual radial rock formations that mesmerised Confucius himself. Back on the main path is the Dǒumǔ Hall (斗母宫; Dǒumǔ Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), dedicated to the Taoist Mother of the Big Dipper, first constructed in 1542 under the name ‘Dragon Spring Nunnery’. Continue through the tunnel of cypresses known as Cypress Cave (柏洞; Bó Dòng MAP GOOGLE MAP ) to Balking Horse Ridge (回马岭; Huímǎ Lǐng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), which marks the point where Emperor Zhenzong had to dismount and continue by litter because his horse refused to go further.

The Midway Gate to Heaven (中天门; Zhōng Tiān Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ) marks the point where some travellers, seeing the stairway disappearing into the clouds, head for the cable car. Don’t give up! Rest your legs, visit the small and smoky God of Wealth Temple (财神庙; Cáishén Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ) to seek inspiration and strength and stock up on calorific snacks.

If you decide to make a float for the summit, the main cable car (空中索道; kōngzhōng suǒdào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; one way/return ¥100/200; h7.30am-6.30pm 16 Apr-15 Oct, 8.30am-5pm 16 Oct-15 Apr) is a 15-minute ride to Moon View Peak (月观峰; Yuèguān Fēng) at the South Gate to Heaven. Be warned: peak season and weekend queues can take two hours. Also, the cable car stops when there is any risk of lightning.

If you continue on foot you’ll come next to Cloud Step Bridge (云步桥; Yúnbù Qiáo MAP GOOGLE MAP ), once a modest wooden bridge spanning a torrent of waterfalls, and the withered and wiry Wǔdàfū Pine (五大夫松; Wǔdàfū Sǒng), under which Emperor Qin Shi Huang, overtaken by a violent storm, sought shelter. Across the valley, each character carved in the Ten-Thousand Zhàng Tablet (万丈碑 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), dated 1748, measures 1m across.

You’ll pass Opposing Pines Pavilion (对松亭; Duìsōng Tíng MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and then finally reach the arduous Path of 18 Bends (十八盘; Shíbāpán MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a 400m extremely steep ascent to the mountain’s false summit. If you have the energy, see if you can spot the small shrine dedicated to the Lord of Tài Shān’s grandmother along the way. There is an alternate route to the Azure Clouds Temple here via another steep, narrow staircase to the right. If you continue on the main route, at the top is the Archway to Immortality (升仙坊; Shēngxiān Fāng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), once believed to bestow immortality on those dedicated enough to reach it.

The final stretch takes you to the South Gate to Heaven (南天门; Nán Tián Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the third celestial gate, which marks the beginning of the summit area. Bear right on Tian Jie (天街), the main strip, and pass through the gate to reach the sublimely perched Azure Clouds Temple (碧霞祠; Bìxiá Cí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-5.15pm), dedicated to Bixia.

You have to climb higher to get to the Confucius Temple (孔庙; Kǒng Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ), where statues of Confucius, Mencius, Zengzi and other Confucian luminaries are venerated. The Taoist Qīngdì Palace (青帝宫; Qīngdì Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is right before the fog- and cloud-swathed Jade Emperor Temple (玉皇顶; Yùhuáng Dǐng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), which stands at the summit, the highest point of the Tài Shān plateau.

The main sunrise vantage point is the North Pointing Rock (拱北石; Gǒngběi Shí MAP GOOGLE MAP ); if you’re lucky, visibility extends over 200km to the coast.

At the summit, you can see another side of the mountain by descending via the Tiānzhú Peak or Peach Blossom Park route.

Western Route (西路)

The most popular way to descend is by bus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; one way ¥30; h6am-6pm & midnight-2am peak, 7am-6pm off-peak) via the Western Route. These buses are also very handy for night hikes up to catch the sunrise. They zip every 20 minutes (or when full) between Tiānwài Village and Midway Gate to Heaven, not stopping in between.

Walking the route is not always pleasant as the poorly marked footpath and road often intercept or coincide, but it rewards you with a variety of scenic orchards and pools. At the mountain’s base, Pervading Light Temple (普照寺; Pǔzhào Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥5; h8am-5.30pm) is a serene Buddhist temple dating from the Southern and Northern dynasties (420–589). The main attraction is Black Dragon Pool (黑龙潭; Hēilóng Tán MAP GOOGLE MAP ), just below Longevity Bridge (长寿桥; Chángshòu Qiáo MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

Tiānzhú Peak Route

The less-travelled route through the Tiānzhú Peak Scenic Area (天烛峰景区; Tiānzhú Fēng Jǐngqū) offers a rare chance to experience Tài Shān with fewer crowds. It’s largely ancient pine forest, ruins and peaks back there, so consider combining it with the Central route for an entirely different view.

If you ascend this way, get an early start to the trailhead, which is 15km by bus 19 (¥2) from Tài Shān Train Station. The challenging climb itself can take five hours.

It’s 5.4km from the trailhead to the Rear Rocky Recess Cable Car (后石坞索道; Hòu Shíwù suǒdào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 833 0765; one way ¥20; h8.30am-4pm Apr-Oct, closed 16 Oct-15 Apr), which takes you from the back of the mountain to the North Gate to Heaven (北天门; Běi Tiānmén MAP GOOGLE MAP ) cable-car stop (北天门索道站; Běi Tiānmén suǒdào zhàn) and views of Tiānzhú Peak – when it’s running. Call in advance.

Peach Blossom Park Route

This route to the summit passes through a scenic valley of striking geological formations and trees that explode with colour in early spring and fall. It makes for an especially pleasant descent.

Near the South Gate to Heaven, take Peach Blossom Park cable car (桃花源索道; Táohuā Yuán suǒdào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 833 0763; one way/return ¥100/200; h7.30am-5pm) down to Peach Blossom Valley. This cable car operates infrequently, so call ahead. From the cable car drop-off it is another 9km on foot or by bus (one way ¥30, departs when full 6am to 6pm and midnight to 2am) to reach the park exit and bus 16 back into town.

zFestivals & Events

International Climbing FestivalSPORTS

(www.zgjqdh.com/zt/tsgjdsj/index.shtml)

Trail runners and stair steppers converge to race up the Central route for this festival every September.

4Sleeping

Sleeping on the mountain is convenient for the sunrise, but it is much more expensive and rooms are simpler than in Tài'ān. Look for signs posting 如家 (rújiā) or 宾馆 (bīnguǎn) at the summit area along Tian Jie for inns starting from around ¥120 and going way up on weekends. Rates can triple during holiday periods, but during slack periods you can bargain for discounts.

Xiānjū BīnguǎnHOTEL$$

(仙居宾馆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 823 9984; 5 Tian Jie, 天街5号 tw ¥120-380, d & tr ¥420-740; aW)

By the South Gate to Heaven, this two-star hotel offers comfortable enough rooms, some with large windows overlooking greenery and views. Discounts of 30%.

Shénqì HotelHOTEL$$$

(神憩宾馆, Shénqì Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 822 3866; 18 Tian Jie, 天街18号 s & d ¥1200-1800, ste ¥6000; aW)

This old-timer is the only hotel on the actual summit, with prices reflecting that. The priciest mountain-view, standard rooms are very pleasant and are pretty much the pick of the mountain crop. The restaurant serves Taoist banquet fare (from ¥28).

Nán Tiān Mén BīnguǎnHOTEL$$$

(南天门宾馆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 833 0988; 1 Tian Jie, 天街1号 d ¥980, without bathroom ¥680-780, tr ¥880-980; aW)

Located smack bang before you turn onto Tian Jie, this is the easiest place for weary legs to reach at the summit. Rooms have seen quite a bit of wear and tear but are still clean and airy; the cheapest have common shower and toilet. There's 24-hour hot water.

5Eating

The Central Route is dotted with stalls and restaurants, with clusters at the cable cars. Prices rise as you do; expect to pay double the usual. Hawkers line the path to the summit, selling fruit and snacks that similarly increase in price with altitude. Stock up in town before you climb. Many of the hotels have restaurants where you can find a decent (but pricey) meal.

8Information

Twenty-four-hour first-aid stations are at both the Midway ( GOOGLE MAP ) and South Gate ( GOOGLE MAP ).

8Getting There & Away

Regular buses connect Tài Shān Train Station with access points to the mountain, mostly from 6.30am to 7.30pm during peak season and to 5.30pm otherwise.

Bus 3 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥2) Runs until 11pm during peak season, going in one direction to the Central route trailhead and the other to Tiānwài Village (天外村; Tiānwài Cūn).

ABus 4 (¥2) Also runs until 11pm during peak season; it goes to Dài Temple and around the town centre.

Bus 16 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥2) Connects to Peach Blossom Valley.

Bus 19 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥2; h50 minutes) Runs from Dongyue Dajie across from the Tài Shān Train Station to Tiānzhú Peak trailhead.

Taxis cost ¥7 for the first 3km and ¥1.50 (slightly more at night) per kilometre thereafter. It costs ¥12 from the Tài Shān Train Station or ¥26 from the Tài’ān Train Station to the Central route trailhead.

8Getting Around

Frequent buses (¥30) run up and down the mountain all day between Tiānwài Village and Midway Gate to Heaven. Cable cars reach the summit area from Midway Gate to Heaven, Peach Blossom Park and Rear Rocky Recess.

Qūfù 曲阜

%0537 / Pop 302,805

The hometown of the great sage Confucius and his descendants, the Kong clan, Qūfù (曲阜) is a testament to the importance of Confucian thought in imperial China to this day. The town is one of Shāndōng's top sights, and is a mandatory stop for anyone keen to see how revered the social philosopher remains.

Viewing the main sights within the city walls of ancient Qūfù, a Unesco World Heritage Site, will take a full day.

Qūfù

1Sights

1Confucius MansionC1

2Confucius TempleB2

3Yán TempleC1

4Sleeping

4Fúyuàn HotelC2

5Quèlǐ HotelC2

6Qūfù International Youth HostelC1

7Shangri-La HotelC3

5Eating

8Mù'ēn Lóu Halal Food & DrinkB1

9Qūfù Night MarketC2

10Street VendorsC1

11Yù Shū FángC1

1Sights

The principal sights – Confucius Temple, Confucius Mansion and Confucius Forest – are known collectively as ‘Sān Kǒng’ (三孔; ‘Three Kongs’). The main ticket office is on Shendao Lu just outside the Confucius Temple’s main entrance. You can buy admission to the individual sights, but the combination ticket (per person ¥150) grants access to all three Confucius-related sights.

From 15 November to 15 February, admission to individual sights is ¥10 cheaper (the combined ticket stays the same) and sights close about a half hour earlier.

Confucius TempleCONFUCIAN TEMPLE

(孔庙, Kǒng Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; incl in combination ticket, or ¥90; h8am-5.10pm)

Like shrines to Confucius throughout China and Asia, this is more museum than altar. The heart of the complex is the huge yellow-eaved Dàchéng Hall (大成殿; Dàchéng Diàn), which in its present form dates from 1724. Craftspeople carved the 10 dragon-coiled columns so expertly that they were covered with red silk when Emperor Qianlong visited, lest he feel that the Forbidden City’s Hall of Supreme Harmony paled in comparison. Inside is a huge statue of Confucius resplendent on a throne.

Above him are the characters for ‘wànshì shībiǎo’, meaning ‘model teacher for all ages’.

The temple has nine courtyards arranged on a central axis. China’s largest imperial building complex after the Forbidden City began as Confucius’ three-room house, but after his death in 478 BC the Duke of the Lǔ (鲁) state consecrated his simple abode as a temple. Everything in it, including his clothing, books, musical instruments and a carriage, was perfectly preserved. The house was rebuilt for the first time in AD 153, kicking off a series of expansions and renovations in subsequent centuries. By 1012 it had four courtyards and over 300 rooms. An imperial-palace-style wall was added. After a fire in 1499, it was rebuilt to its present scale.

Over 1000 stelae documenting imperial gifts and sacrifices from the Han dynasty onwards as well as treasured examples of calligraphy and stone reliefs are preserved on the grounds. Look for a bìxì bearing the Chéng Huà stele (成化碑; Chénghuà bēi), dedicated by the Ming emperor in 1468, which praises Confucius in a particularly bold, formal hand. The characters are so perfect that copies were used to teach penmanship. The Shèngjì Hall (圣迹殿; Shèngjī Diàn) houses 120 famed Tang-dynasty paintings depicting Confucius’ life immortalised as carvings.

Halfway through the complex rises the triple-eaved Great Pavilion of the Constellation of Scholars (奎文阁; Kuíwén Gé), an imposing Song-dynasty wooden structure. A series of gates and colossal, twin-eaved stele pavilions lead to the Apricot Altar (杏坛; Xìng Tán), which marks the spot where Confucius taught his students under an apricot tree.

South of Chóngshèng Hall (崇圣祠; Chóngshèng Cí), which was once the site of the original family temple, the Lǔ Wall (鲁壁; Lǔ Bì) stands where Confucius’ ninth-generation descendant hid Confucius’ writings in the walls of his house during Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s book-burning campaign around 213 BC. The texts were uncovered during an attempt to raze the grounds in 154 BC, spurring new schools of Confucian scholarship and long debates over what Confucius really said.

Confucius MansionMUSEUM

(孔府, Kǒng Fǔ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; incl in combination ticket, or ¥60; h8am-5.15pm)

Next to Confucius Temple is this maze of living quarters, halls, studies and further studies. The mansion buildings were moved from the temple grounds to the present site in 1377 and vastly expanded into 560 rooms in 1503. More remodelling followed, including reconstruction following a devastating fire in 1885. The mansion was for centuries the most sumptuous private residence in China, thanks to imperial sponsorship and the Kong clan’s rule, which included powers of taxation and execution, over Qūfù as an autonomous estate.

The clan indulged in 180-course meals, and kept servants and consorts. Male heirs successively held the title of Duke Yan Sheng from the Song dynasty until 1935.

Confucius Mansion is built on an ‘interrupted’ north–south axis with administrative offices (taxes, edicts, rites, registration and examination halls) at the entrance (south) and private quarters at the back (north). The Ceremonial Gate (重光门; Chóngguāng Mén) was opened only when emperors dropped in. The central path passes a series of halls, including the Great Hall (大堂; Dà Táng) and Nèizhái Gate (内宅门; Nèizhái Mén), which separated the private and public parts of the residence and was guarded at all times.

The large ‘shòu’ character (壽; longevity) presented in traditional Chinese script within the single-eaved Upper Front Chamber (前上房; Qián Shàng Fáng) north of Nèizhái Gate was a gift from Qing Empress Cixi. The Duke lived in the two-storey Front Chamber (前堂楼; Qián Táng Lóu).

Just east of Nèizhái Gate is the Tower of Refuge (奎楼; Kuí Lóu), not open to visitors, where the Kong clan could gather if the peasants turned nasty. It has an iron-lined ceiling on the ground floor and a staircase that could be yanked up.

Confucius ForestCEMETERY

(孔林, Kǒng Lín incl in combination ticket, or ¥40; h8am-5.20pm)

About 2km north of town on Lindao Lu is the peaceful Confucius Forest, a cemetery of pine and cypress covering 200 hectares bounded by a 10km-long wall. Confucius and more than 100,000 of his descendants have been buried here for the past 2000 years, a tradition still ongoing. Today the tomb is a simple grass mound enclosed by a low wall and faced with a Ming-dynasty stele. Pairs of stone guardians stand at the ready.

The sage’s son and grandson are buried nearby, and scattered through the forest are dozens of temples and pavilions.

When Confucius died in 479 BC, he was buried on the bank of the Si River beneath a simple marker. In the Western Han dynasty, Emperor Wudi deemed Confucianism the only worthy school of thought, and then the Tomb of Confucius (孔子墓; Kǒngzǐ Mù) became a place of pilgrimage.

A slow walk through the parklike cemetery can take a couple of hours, though Confucius’ tomb is just a 15-minute walk from the entrance (turn left after the carts). Open-air shuttles (one way/return ¥10/20) allow you to hop on and off in the forest.

Sightseeing carts depart for the forest from the corner of Houzuo Jie and Gulou Dajie. Otherwise, take a pedicab (¥10) or bus 1 (¥2) from Gulou Beijie. Walking takes about 30 minutes.

Confucius CavePARK

(夫子洞, Fūzǐ Dòng ¥50; h8.10am-5pm)

About 30km southeast of Qūfù, this cave on Ní Shān (尼山) is where, according to legend, a frighteningly ugly Confucius was born, abandoned and cared for by a tiger and an eagle, before his mother realised he was sent from heaven and decided to care for him. The gravitas is a bit hokey, but the sight offers a chance for some fresh air.

Buses for Ni Shān (¥8) leave regularly from the long-distance bus station. A taxi there is about ¥40.

Yán TempleCONFUCIAN TEMPLE

(颜庙, Yán Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yanmiao Jie, 颜庙街 ¥50; h8am-5.10pm; g1, 3)

This tranquil temple northeast of Confucius Mansion is dedicated to Confucius’ beloved disciple Yan Hui, whose death at age 32 caused the understated Confucius ‘excessive grief’. The main structure, Fùshèng Hall (复圣殿; Fùshèng Diàn), has a magnificent ceiling decorated with a dragon head motif. Outside a bìxì carries a stele that posthumously granted Yan the title of Duke of Yanguo (in both Han and Mongol script) in AD 1331.

CONFUCIUS: THE FIRST TEACHER

An idealist born into a world of violent upheaval, Confucius (551–479 BC) spent his life trying to stabilise society according to traditional ideals. By his own measure he failed, but over time he became one of the most influential thinkers the world has known. Confucius’ ideals remain at the core of values in East Asia today and still exercise massive power over Chinese thinking.

Confucius was born Kong Qiu (孔丘), earning the honorific Kongfuzi (孔夫子), literally ‘Master Kong’, after becoming a teacher. His family was poor but of noble rank, and eventually he became an official in his home state of Lǔ (in present-day Shāndōng). At the age of 50 he put a plan into action to reform government that included routing corruption. This resulted in his exile, and he spent 13 years travelling from state to state, hoping to find a ruler who would put his ideas into practice. Eventually he returned to his home town of Qūfù and spent the remainder of his life expounding the wisdom of the Six Classics (The Book of Changes, Songs, Rites, History, Music and the Spring and Autumn Annals). Taking on students from varied backgrounds, he believed that everyone, not just aristocracy, had a right to knowledge. This ideal became one of his greatest legacies.

Confucius’ teachings were compiled by his disciples in The Analects (论语, Lúnyǔ), a collection of 497 aphorisms. Though he claimed to be merely transmitting the ideals of an ancient golden age, Confucius was in fact China’s first humanist philosopher, upholding morality (humaneness, righteousness and virtue) and self-cultivation as the basis for social order. ‘What you do not wish for yourself,’ he said, ‘do not do to others.’

zFestivals & Events

Every morning at 8am, following a recitation, a costumed procession raucously walks up Shendao Lu from Jingxian Lu to the main gate to officially open the city.

Confucius Temple holds two major festivals a year: Tomb Sweeping Day (usually 5 April; celebrations may last all weekend) and the Sage’s Birthday (28 September), both involving elaborate, costumed ceremonies. The city also comes alive with craftspeople, healers, acrobats and peddlers during annual fairs in the spring and autumn.

4Sleeping

As a drawcard town for domestic and Asian tourists, Qūfù is loaded with hotels. This doesn't mean they are necessarily good value for money, but there is a reasonable range of choice, from hostels to smart, five-star options.

oQūfù International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(曲阜国际青年旅舍, Qūfù Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 441 8989; Gulou Beijie, 鼓楼北街北首路西 dm/tw/tr ¥45/128/158; aW)

This friendly and popular hostel at the north end of Gulou Beijie has particularly clean rooms. There's bike rental, ticket bookings and a cafe-bar serving Chinese and Western fare and cocktails. Dorms are four to eight beds and share a nice bathroom. Staff speak English and are helpful with travel tips and info.

Fúyuàn HotelHOTEL$$

(福苑酒店, Fúyuàn Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %138 6372 3660; 8 Gulou Beijie, 鼓楼北街8号 s/d incl breakfast ¥198/208; aW)

Smack-bang in the middle of the old town, this hotel's courteous staff make up for a slightly worn look. Go for the 2nd-floor rooms, and avoid the stuffy, windowless economy rooms, which are dispiriting. Discounts up to 40%.

Shangri-La HotelHOTEL$$$

(香阁里拉大酒店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 505 8888; www.shangri-la.com; 3 Chunqiu Lu,春秋路3号 incl breakfast r ¥805-1035, ste ¥2288; naW)

The Shangri-La is a winning brand, with slick, top-end facilities, kids' activities and impressive buffets. Rooms are stylish and comfortable and service is always polite. It's just south of the old town of Qūfù.

Quèlǐ HotelHOTEL$$$

(阙里宾舍, Quèlǐ Bīnshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 486 6400; www.quelihotel.com; 15 Zhonglou Jie, 钟楼街15号 incl breakfast s ¥280-600, d ¥350-460, ste from ¥1000; aW)

For many years the traditional-style four-star Quèlǐ was the fanciest hotel in Qūfù. It has been refurbed but some rooms are still nicer than others. Look at the rooms first. If you want a temple view room, it will cost sightly more.

MAKING COPIES

For millennia, everything from imperial decrees to poetry, religious scriptures and maps were preserved by carving them into stone. This was done either as an inscription (yin-style) or a relief (yang-style). Copies were made by applying ink to the stone and pressing rice paper onto it, or by tamping a damp sheet of paper into the crevices and allowing it to dry, before patting ink onto the paper’s surface. Over time, even stone would wear and the clearest, best-made prints became works of art themselves. Unfortunately, this prompted unscrupulous collectors to damage carvings to ensure they had the very best copy. These are some of the gouges and scratches you see in many of the most prized tablets and stelae.

5Eating

The local speciality is Kong-family cuisine (孔家菜), which, despite its name, is the furthest thing from home cooking since it developed as a result of all the imperial-style banquets the family threw.

Mù’ēn Lóu Halal Food & DrinkCHINESE ISLAMIC$

(穆恩楼清真餐飲, Mùēn Lóu, Qīngzhēn Cānyǐn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 448 3877; Houzuo Jie, 后作街 mains ¥15-68; h8.30am-1.30pm & 5-8.30pm)

A friendly Hui family runs this simple but convenient place behind the Confucius Mansion, serving house specialities like beef spiced with cumin, star anise and turmeric (南前牛肉片; nánqián niúròu piàn; ¥68) and tongue-numbing, spicy tofu (麻辣豆腐; málà dòufu; ¥12).

Qūfù Night MarketMARKET$

(曲阜夜市, Qūfù Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wumaci Jie & Gulou Nanjie, 五马祠街鼓楼南街的路口 snacks from ¥3, dishes from ¥9; hfrom 5pm)

The busy, aromatic and central night market cooks up lamb kebabs, noodles, húntún (wontons), tofu and many other dishes and street snacks.

Yù Shū FángCHINESE$$$

(御书房 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 441 9888; www.confuciusfood.com; 2nd fl, Houzuo Jie, 后作街2楼 banquet per person ¥138-500; h11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm)

On dining, Confucius duly noted 'Food can never be too good, and cooking can never be done too carefully'. This restaurant of private rooms behind the Confucius Mansion takes this to heart, serving fine Iron Guanyin teas (铁观音; tiě guānyīn) from ¥40 per pot (壶) and Kong-family banquet meals (套餐; tào cān), for a never-ending succession of dishes.

The most basic set involves six or so small cold dishes, followed by about 16 more hot dishes – from soup to vegetables, braised sea cucumber, spicy chicken and so on in quick succession. There's no English menu and staff do not speak much English but ordering is pretty straightforward (just pick a price). Reservations are recommended, and some dishes can be ordered à la carte (from ¥40).

STREET FOOD

Apart from top-end places, restaurants tend skip the pageantry nowadays, but for still less formal fare visit the street vendors (特色小吃城 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dishes from ¥2; hfrom 5pm) on the corner just outside the north city gate, or at the Wumaci Jie night market. Vendors make noodles, grill skewers of meat, and serve jiānbǐng guǒzi (煎饼裹子; ¥3 to ¥5), a steaming parcel of egg, vegetables and chilli sauce wrapped in a pancake (hand-warming on a cold day). Stalls displaying raw meat and produce cook it to order; just point at what you want. The Muslim Quarter outside the western gate is the place to feast on noodles, lamb and beef.

6Drinking & Nightlife

In accordance with its Confucian disposition, Qūfù is a rather sober place, so does not have many bars. Grabbing a beer at the restaurants, night markets or the Qūfù International Youth Hostel is an option.

8Information

Buy plane and train tickets at the booking office next to China Post. Qūfù International Youth Hostel also books tickets (¥15 to ¥20 commission).

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 96 Dongmen Dajie, 东门大街96号 h8.30am-4.30pm)

Foreign exchange and ATM.

China PostPOST

(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Gulou Beijie, 鼓楼门分理处 h8am-6pm summer, 8.30am-5.30pm winter)

Near the Drum Tower.

Left LuggageSTORAGE

(h6am-6pm)

Left luggage is available at the long-distance bus station 3km west of the city walls; it's ¥5 per small item.

Main Ticket OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(售票处, shòupiàochù GOOGLE MAP )

The main ticket office sells the combination ticket for access to all the Confucian sights, or purchase them individually here.

People’s No 2 HospitalHOSPITAL

(第二人民医院, Dì’èr Rénmín Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 448 8120; 7 Gulou Beijie, 鼓楼北街7号 )

Just north of the Qūfù International Youth Hostel.

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0537 443 0007; 1 Wuyutai Lu, 舞雩台路1号 h8.30am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri)

About 1.5km south of the city walls. Can help with initial paperwork for lost passports, but cannot extend visas; for more you'll have to go to Jìníng (济宁).

8Getting There & Away

Plane & Train Booking OfficeTICKETS

(售票处 GOOGLE MAP ; %150 5377 1869; Gulou Beijie, 鼓楼北街 commission ¥5; h8.30am-noon & 2-6pm)

Very useful for obtaining train tickets in particular, for all of the town's stations.

Air

Jìníng Qūfù Airport is 80km southwest of Qūfù's old town and connects to Běijīng (¥600, 1½ hours), Chéngdū (¥1200, two hours), Guǎngzhōu (¥900, 2½ hours), Shànghǎi (¥868, two hours), Xi'an (¥674, 55 minutes) and a handful of other cities.

Bus

Qūfú’s long-distance bus station (长途汽车站; chángtú qìchēzhàn %0537 441 2554; Yulong Lu & Yulan Lu; 裕隆路与玉兰路 ) is 3km west of the city walls. There is a left luggage office available here.

Buses regularly depart for the following destinations:

AJǐ’nán ¥55, three hours, every 30 minutes (7.30am to 6pm)

AQīngdǎo ¥135, five hours, two daily (8.30am and 1.30pm)

ATài’ān ¥23, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes

Train

Trains are the best way to reach Qūfù. Leaving Qūfù, catch high-speed trains from the East Train Station (高铁东火车站 %0537 442 1571),12km east of the walled city. Qūfù Train Station (曲阜火车站; Qūfù Huǒchēzhàn %0537 442 1571; Dianlan Lu; 电缆路 ) is closest to the walled city (6km east), but only regular trains stop there. If tickets are sold out, try Yǎnzhōu Train Station (兖州火车站 %0537 346 2965; Beiguan Jie), 16km west of Qūfù, which is on the Běijīng–Shànghǎi line and has more frequent regular trains.

Some express trains (1st-/2nd-class seat) departing from East Train Station:

ABěijīng ¥409/244, 2½ hours, frequent (8.03am to 9.01pm)

AJǐ’nán ¥100/60, 30 minutes, frequent (7.20am to 10.19pm)

ANánjīng ¥379/224, two hours, frequent (7.53am to 9.15pm)

AQīngdǎo ¥244/179, 3½ hours, six daily (9.10am to 5.43pm)

AShànghǎi ¥584/344, 3½ hours, frequent (7.53am to 8.11pm)

ATiānjīn ¥320/190, one hour 50 minutes, hourly (8.03am to 8.23pm)

Some regular trains departing from Qūfù Train Station:

AJǐ’nán hard/soft seat ¥29/45, 2½ hours, three daily (8.08am, 4.24pm and 8.39pm)

AYāntái hard seat/hard sleeper ¥72/145, 9½ hours, two daily (8.57am and 11.48pm)

8Getting Around

There are no direct buses from the airport to the old town of Qūfù, so you will need to transfer to a bus or taxi at the bus station in Jǐníng (济宁), about 50km away. Flying into the provincial capital Jǐnán is probably as convenient.

If you're arriving or departing by bus or high-speed train, bus K01 handily connects the long-distance bus station to Qūfù’s main gate (¥2) and the East Train Station (¥3). A taxi from within the walls is about ¥40 to the East Train Station and ¥20 to the long-distance bus station. Minibuses (¥5 to ¥8) connect the main gate to Yǎnzhōu Train Station from 6.30am to 5.30pm; otherwise, a taxi costs about ¥50. Bus 1 (¥2) traverses the old town along Gulou Beijie to Confucius Forest.

Ubiquitous pedicabs (¥6 to ¥8 within Qūfù, ¥10 to ¥20 outside the walls) – they will find you – are the most pleasant way to get around. Take one (or a regular taxi) to the Qūfù Train Station, as there are no direct buses.

Tired ponies pull brightly decorated carts (¥50) from Queli Jie to the Confucius Forest, or you can take sightseeing carts (电动旅游车; diàndòng lǚyóu chē GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Houzuo Jie & Gulou Dajie; 后作街鼓楼大街的路口 1 way/return ¥10/15; h7.40am-6pm) to the cemetery.