Zhèjiāng
Zhèjiāng
Pop 55 million
Why Go?
It's Hángzhōu, the handsome capital city, that lands Zhèjiāng (浙江) on many a traveller's itinerary. Home to picture-perfect landscapes of classical Chinese beauty (and just a short train ride from Shànghǎi), Hángzhōu is the obvious highlight. Yet the province offers so much more. There are water towns with spiderweb networks of canals and restored Ming and Qing dynasty merchants' homes (Wūzhèn and Nánxún), also in easy striking distance. Among the thousands of islands dotting a ragged and fragmented shoreline is the island of Pǔtuóshān, one of China's four most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites. More intrepid travellers can head west, where ancient villages retain their traditional architecture and bucolic charms. Meanwhile travellers looking for the opposite of intrepid can hole up in one of the stylish resorts nestled among the hillside bamboo groves and tea fields of naturally cool Mògànshān.
When to Go
ALate Mar–early May Spring sees low humidity and vegetation turning a brilliant green.
AAug & Sep Flee the simmering lowland heat to the cooler heights of Mògànshān.
ALate Sep–mid-Nov Steal a march on winter and evade the sapping summer in Hángzhōu.
Best Places to Eat
A Zǎozishù
Best Places to Sleep
Zhèjiāng Highlights
1 Hángzhōu Cycling around scenic West Lake, a reflecting pool for willow trees and traditional pavilions.
2 Pǔtuóshān Basking in the glow of the goddess of mercy on a sacred island.
3 Zhūgě Exploring the cobblestone alleys of an ancient village designed for maximum feng shui.
4 Mògànshān Trading urban landscapes for the lush forested ones of a 19th-century hill station.
5 Nánxún Strolling alongside the waterways of Zhèjiāng’s most charming canal town.
6 Tàishùn Riding through the countryside to discover China's best collection of antique covered bridges.
7 Sìpíng Getting into the rhythms of village life with a homestay.
History
By the 7th and 8th centuries, Hángzhōu, Níngbō and Shàoxīng had emerged as three of China’s most important trading centres and ports. Fertile Zhèjiāng was part of the great southern granary from which food was shipped to the depleted areas of the north via the Grand Canal (Dà Yùnhé), which commences here. Growth accelerated when the Song dynasty moved court to Hángzhōu in the 12th century after invasion from the north. Due to intense cultivation, northern Zhèjiāng has lost a lot of natural vegetation and much of it is now flat, featureless plain.
8Getting There & Around
Zhèjiāng is well connected to the rest of the country by plane, high-speed train and bus. The provincial capital Hángzhōu is effortlessly reached by train from Shànghǎi and Sūzhōu, and serves as a useful first stop in Zhèjiāng. Hángzhōu and Pǔtuóshān are both served by nearby airports.
The province is quite small and getting around is straightforward. High-speed trains service hubs like Hángzhōu and Jīnhuá, from where you can get buses to surrounding villages, and Níngbō, the jumping-off point for sea journeys to Pǔtuóshān.
Hángzhōu 杭州
%571 / Pop 9 million
One of China’s most enduringly popular holiday spots, Hángzhōu’s (杭州) dreamy West Lake panoramas and fabulously green hills can easily tempt you into long sojourns. Eulogised by poets and applauded by emperors, the lake has intoxicated the Chinese imagination for aeons. Kept spotlessly clean by armies of street sweepers and litter collectors, its scenic vistas draw you into a classical Chinese watercolour of willow-lined banks, mist-covered hills and the occasional shíkùmén (stone-gate house) and old lǐlòng (residential lane).
Wonderful as it is, Hángzhōu's charms are by no means limited to West Lake scenery – delve further into the city to climb ancient pagodas and discover blissfully quiet temples. Away from the tourist drawcards exists a charismatic and buzzing city in its own right, with wide pedestrian walkways to wander, an unpretentious and exciting food scene, upbeat nightlife and increasingly cosmopolitan population.
Hángzhōu
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
8Information
Transport
1Sights
oWest LakeLAKE
(西湖, Xīhú MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The very definition of classical beauty in China, West Lake is utterly mesmerising: pagoda-topped hills rise over willow-lined waters as boats drift slowly through a vignette of leisurely charm. Walkways, perfectly positioned benches, parks and gardens around the banks of the lake offer a thousand and one vantage points for visitors to admire the faultless scenery.
Originally a lagoon adjoining the Qiántáng River, the lake didn’t come into existence until the 8th century, when the governor of Hángzhōu had the marshy expanse dredged. As time passed, the lake’s splendour was gradually cultivated: gardens were planted, pagodas built, and causeways and islands were constructed from dredged silt.
Celebrated poet Su Dongpo himself had a hand in the lake’s development, constructing the Sū Causeway (苏堤; Sūdī) during his tenure as local governor in the 11th century. It wasn’t an original idea – the poet-governor Bai Juyi had already constructed the Bái Causeway (白堤; Báidī) some 200 years earlier. Lined by willow, plum and peach trees, today the traffic-free causeways with their half-moon bridges make for restful outings.
Lashed to the northern shores by the Bái Causeway is Gūshān Island (孤山岛; Gūshān Dǎo), the largest island in the lake and the location of the Zhèjiāng Provincial Museum (浙江省博物馆; Zhèjiāng Shěng Bówùguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 25 Gushan Lu; 孤山路25号 audioguide ¥10; 
h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) and Zhōngshān Park (中山公园; Zhōngshān Gōngyuán
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
). The island’s buildings and gardens were once the site of Emperor Qianlong’s 18th-century holiday palace and gardens. Also on the island is the intriguing Seal Engravers Society (西泠印社; Xīlíng Yìnshè
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; h9am-5.30pm), though it was closed for renovations at the time of research, dedicated to the ancient art of carving the name seals (chops) that serve as personal signatures.
The northwest of the lake is fringed with the lovely Qūyuàn Garden (曲院风荷; Qūyuàn Fēnghé MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a collection of gardens spread out over numerous islets and renowned for their fragrant spring lotus blossoms. Near Xīlíng Bridge (Xīlíng Qiáo) is Su Xiaoxiao's Tomb (苏小小墓; Sū Xiǎoxiǎo Mù MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a 5th-century courtesan who died of grief while waiting for her lover to return. It’s been said that her ghost haunts the area and the tinkle of the bells on her gown are audible at night.
The smaller island in the lake is Xiǎoyíng Island (小瀛洲; Xiǎoyíng Zhōu MAP GOOGLE MAP ), where you can look over at Three Pools Mirroring the Moon (三潭印月; Sāntán Yìnyuè MAP GOOGLE MAP ), three small towers in the water on the south side of the island; each has five holes that release shafts of candlelight on the night of the mid-autumn festival. From Lesser Yíngzhōu Island, you can gaze over to Red Carp Pond (花港观鱼; Huāgǎng Guānyú MAP GOOGLE MAP ), home to a few thousand red carp.
Impromptu opera singing, ballroom dancing and other cultural activities often take place around the lake, and if the weather’s fine, don’t forget to earmark the east shore for sunset over West Lake photos.
It's hardly needed, but musical dancing fountains burst into action at regular intervals throughout the night and day, close to Lakeview Park.
Crowds can be a real issue here, especially on public days off when it can seem as if every holidaymaker in China is strolling around the lake. Escape the jam of people by getting out and about early in the morning – also the best time to spot the odd serene lakeside taichi session.
The best way to get around the lake is by bike or on foot.
oDragon Well Tea VillageVILLAGE
(龙井问茶, Lóngjǐng Wènchá
GOOGLE MAP
; h8am-5.30pm)
The lush, green scenery around this tea village up in the hills southwest of West Lake makes for a wonderful break from the bustle of Hangzhou. Visitors can wander through the village and up into the tea plantations themselves. During the spring, which is the best time to visit, straw-hatted workers can be seen picking the tea leaves by hand in the fields, and baskets of the fresh leaves are left out to dry in the sun back in the village.
oLíngyǐn TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(灵隐寺, Língyǐn Sì
GOOGLE MAP
; Lingyin Lu, 灵隐路 grounds ¥45, temple ¥30; h7am-5pm)
Hángzhōu’s most famous Buddhist temple, Língyǐn Temple was originally built in AD 326, but has been destroyed and rebuilt no fewer than 16 times. During the Five Dynasties (AD 907–960) about 3000 monks lived here. The Hall of the Four Heavenly Kings is astonishing, with its four vast guardians and an ornate cabinet housing Milefo (the future Buddha). The Great Hall contains a magnificent 20m-high statue of Siddhartha Gautama (Sakyamuni), sculpted from 24 blocks of camphor wood in 1956 and based on a Tang dynasty original.
Behind the giant statue is a startling montage of Guanyin surrounded by 150 small figures, including multiple luóhàn (arhat), in a variety of poses. The earlier hall collapsed in 1949, crushing the Buddhist statues within, so it was rebuilt and the statue conceived. The Hall of the Medicine Buddha is beyond.
The walk up to the temple skirts the flanks of Fēilái Peak (飞来峰; Fēilái Fēng; Peak Flying from Afar), magically transported here from India according to legend. The Buddhist carvings (all 470 of them) lining the riverbanks and hillsides and tucked away inside grottoes date from the 10th to 14th centuries. To get a close-up view of the best carvings, including the famed ‘laughing’ Maitreya Buddha, follow the paths along the far (east) side of the stream.
There are several other temples near Língyǐn Temple that can be explored, including Yǒngfú Temple and Tāoguāng Temple.
Behind Língyǐn Temple is the Northern Peak (Běi Gāofēng), which can be scaled by cable car (up/down/return ¥30/20/40). From the summit there are sweeping views across the lake and city.
oJìngcí TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(净慈寺, Jìngcí Sì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Nanshan Lu, 南山路 ¥10; h6am-5.15pm summer, 6.30am-4.45pm winter)
The serene yet monastically active Chan (Zen) Jìngcí Temple was originally built in AD 954 and is now fully restored. The splendid first hall contains the massive, foreboding Heavenly Kings and an elaborate red and gold case encapsulating Milefo (the future Buddha) and Weituo (protector of the Buddhist temples and teachings). The main hall – known as the Great Treasure Hall – contains a vast seated effigy of Sakyamuni (Buddha).
No 1 ParkPARK
(一公园, Yī Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hubin Lu, 湖滨路 )
Cruise boats across West Lake depart from here to Xiǎoyíng Island.
Hángzhōu Botanical GardenGARDENS
(杭州植物园, Hángzhōu Zhíwùyuán
GOOGLE MAP
; www.hzbg.cn; 1 Taoyuan Ling, 桃源岭1号 ¥10; h7am-5pm)
With huge tracts of towering bamboo, flowering magnolias and other delightful plants and trees, these vast gardens make for lovely walks to the northwest of West Lake. Sprawling over 245 hectares, they're just as well kept as you'd expect in a city that prides itself on its beautiful environment.
Mid-Lake PavilionLANDMARK
(湖心亭, Húxīn Tíng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
A Ming dynasty Chinese pavilion sits on this small islet in the West Lake. Many of the cruise boats pass close by it, but it's not accessible to tourists.
Bǎoshí ShānHILL
(宝石山 MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Bǎoshí Hill is one of the loveliest places in Hángzhōu to take a hike. Numerous well kept paths wind through the forest, taking you up steep slopes and past pagodas, West Lake viewpoints and a temple. A perfect escape from the city bustle.
Tàizǐwān ParkPARK
(太子湾公园, Tàizǐwān Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nanshan Lu, 南山路 )
This exquisite and serene park just south of the Sū Causeway off West Lake offers quiet walks among lush woodland, ponds, lakes, rose gardens and lawns along a wooden walkway. Just take off and explore. It’s heavenly in spring, with gorgeous beds of tulips and daffodils and flowering trees.
China National Silk MuseumMUSEUM
(中国丝绸博物馆, Zhōngguó Sīchóu Bówùguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.chinasilkmuseum.com; 73-1 Yuhuangshan Lu, 玉皇山路73-1号 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, noon-5pm Mon)
F
This vast museum is devoted to all things silk, covering fashion, craftsmanship and the historic Silk Road in great depth. Extensive galleries showcase the evolution of the qípáo (Chinese dress) from the 1920s onward, as well as some fabulously ornate European gowns from the 1600-1800s.
The history of the Chinese silk trade and its influence on the relationship between East and West is also explored in a series of exhibitions.
Húqìngyú Táng Chinese Medicine MuseumMUSEUM
(中药博物馆, Zhōngyào Bówùguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 95 Dajing Xiang, 大井巷95号 ¥10; h8.30am-5pm)
The Huqing Yutang Chinese Medicine Museum has an actual dispensary and clinic adjoined to the museum. Originally established by the Qing dynasty merchant Hu Xueyan in 1874, the medicine shop and factory retain the typical style of the period. The museum itself is housed in a lovely, musty old building with a bright courtyard full of TCM plants.
Displays range from the fascinating, such as an ancient instruction book for medicine-making and old medical implements, to the surreal – including a giant rhino model.
Léifēng PagodaPAGODA
(雷峰塔, Léifēng Tǎ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Nanshan Lu, 南山路 adult/child ¥40/20; h8am-8.30pm Mar-Nov, to 5.30pm Dec-Feb)
Topped with a golden spire, the eye-catching Léifēng Pagoda can be climbed for fine views of the lake. The original pagoda, built in AD 977, collapsed in 1924. During renovations in 2001, Buddhist scriptures written on silk were discovered in the foundations, along with other treasures. There's now an elevator and escalator to help visitors reach the top.
Six Harmonies PagodaPAGODA
(六和塔, Liùhé Tǎ 16 Zhijiang Lu, 之江路16号 grounds ¥20, grounds & pagoda ¥30; h6am-6.30pm)
Three kilometres southwest of West Lake, an enormous rail and road bridge spans the Qiántáng River. Close by rears up the 60m-high octagonal Six Harmonies Pagoda, first built in AD 960. The stout pagoda also served as a lighthouse, and was said to possess magical powers to halt the 6.5m-high tidal bore that thunders up Qiántáng River. You can climb the tight stairs of the pagoda, while behind stretches a charming walk through terraces dotted with sculptures, bells (¥10 buys you six chimes and a lucky bracelet), shrines and inscriptions.
Qīnghéfāng Old StreetSTREET
(清河坊历史文化街, Qīnghéfāng Lìshǐ Wénhuà Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hefang Jie, 河坊街 )
At the south end of Zhongshan Zhonglu is this touristy, crowded and bustling pedestrian street, with makeshift puppet theatres, teahouses and gift and curio stalls, selling everything from stone teapots to boxes of lóngxūtáng (龙须糖; dragon whiskers sweets), ginseng and silk. It’s also home to several traditional medicine shops, including the Húqìngyú Táng Chinese Medicine Museum, which is an actual dispensary and clinic.
Big Buddha TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(大佛寺, Dàfó Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The remains of this historic temple on the western slope of Bǎoshí Shān north of West Lake only run to a weather-beaten and dilapidated vast stone head of a Buddha; all the temple halls have vanished. It's easy to miss, unless you're hunting for it, as it lies behind a residential building and can only be seen from the top of the steps that lie along the hill's slope.
Bǎochù PagodaBUDDHIST SITE
(保俶塔, Bǎochù Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Visiting this charming pagoda overlooking West Lake makes for a lovely walk in the hills north of the lake.
Mausoleum of General Yue FeiTEMPLE
(岳庙, Yuè Fēi Mù
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Beishan Lu; ¥25; h7.30am-5.30pm)
Commander of the southern Song armies, General Yue Fei (1103–42) led successful battles against northern Jurchen invaders in the 12th century. Despite initial successes, he was recalled to the Song court, where he was executed, along with his son, after being deceived by the treacherous prime minister Qin Hui. In 1163, Song emperor Gao Zong exonerated Yue Fei and had his corpse reburied here.
DAILY COSTS
Budget: Less than ¥200
ADorm bed: ¥60–80
ABowl of noodles: ¥8–15
ABus tickets: ¥2
AEntry to sights: ¥20–30
Midrange: ¥200-800
ADouble room in a hotel: ¥300–800
AMeal in local restaurant: ¥60–120
AShort taxi trip: ¥11–20
AWest Lake boat trip: ¥70
Top end: More than ¥800
ASuite in top hotel: ¥2000
AMeal with wine: ¥500
APrivate boat hire: ¥150
4Sleeping
Book well ahead in the summer months, at weekends and during the busy holiday periods. Room prices at hostels and some hotels get a significant weekend hike.
Hofang International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(荷方国际青年旅社, Héfāng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8706 3299; 67 Dajing Xiang, 大井巷67号 dm ¥55, s/d ¥188/288; 
a
i
W)
Pleasantly tucked away from the noise down a historic alley off Qīnghéfāng Old Street, this hostel has an excellent location and exudes a pleasant and calm ambience, with attractive rooms, the cheapest of which come with tatami. Note that prices go up by between ¥30 and ¥60 on weekends and holidays. The adjoining hostel cafe is a cosy place to check emails with a coffee.
In Lake Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(柳湖小筑青年旅社, Liǔhú Xiǎozhù Qīngnián Lǚshè
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8682 6700; 5 Luyang Lu, 绿杨路5号 dm ¥70, tw/d ¥378/408; aW)
Well located a few steps from West Lake off Nanshan Lu, this attractive choice is all Mediterranean arches and ochre shades, with a lovely plant-filled interior courtyard. Rooms have wood flooring and tall radiators, six-person dorms (all with shower) are clean and there's a roof terrace for barbecues, a downstairs cafe and bar, and welcoming staff. Prices rise at weekends.
Mingtown Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(明堂杭州国际青年旅社, Míngtáng Hángzhōu Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8791 8948; 101-11 Nanshan Lu, 南山路101-11号 dm/s/d ¥65/180/210; aW)
With its pleasant lakeside location, this friendly and highly popular hostel is often booked out, so reserve well ahead. It has a relaxing cafe-bar, offers ticket booking, internet access, self-service kitchen and laundry and has an attractive outdoor area.
West Lake 7 Service ApartmentsAPARTMENT$$
(西湖柒号酒店公寓, Xīhú Qīhào Jiǔdiàn Gōngyù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Yuewang Lu, 岳王路1号 d ¥320)
These large and comfortable serviced apartments offer excellent value for money, with facilities including a washing machine, kitchen and surprisingly speedy wi-fi. The location is not bad, set right next to the Wushan Lu Night Market, and just a few blocks' walk from the West Lake.
Crystal Orange HotelHOTEL$$
(桔字水晶酒店, Júzi Shuǐjīng Jiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 2887 8988; www.orangehotel.com; 122 Qingbo Jie, 清波街122号 d from ¥408; aiW)
Sleek chain hotel with a modern and stylish interior. Bold Warhol prints decorate the high lobby walls, and there's a glass lift to take you up the four floors. Sadly no views of West Lake from the neat rooms (some of which don't have windows), but this is reflected in the reasonable room rates.
Tea Boutique HotelHOTEL$$$
(杭州天伦精品酒店, Hángzhōu Tiānlún Jīngpǐn Jiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8799 9888; www.teaboutiquehotel.com; 124 Shuguang Lu, 曙光路124号 d incl breakfast ¥898; 
naiW)
The simple but effective wood-sculpted foyer area with its sinuously shaped reception is a perfect introduction to the lovely accommodation at this hotel. A Japanese-minimalist mood holds sway with celadon tea sets and tall, elegant stems of greenery artfully arranged. Muted colours and natural materials in the bedrooms create a zen atmosphere.
Four Seasons Hotel HángzhōuHOTEL$$$
(杭州西子湖四季酒店, Hángzhōu Xīzihú Sìjì Jiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8829 8888; www.fourseasons.com/hangzhou; 5 Lingyin Lu, 灵隐路5号 d ¥3500, ste from ¥6500; naiW
s)
More of a resort than a hotel, the fabulous 78-room, two-pool Four Seasons enjoys a seductive position in lush grounds next to West Lake. Low-rise buildings and three private villas echo traditional China, a sensation amplified by the osmanthus trees, ornamental shrubs, ponds and general tranquillity.
PRICE RANGES
EATING PRICE INDICATORS
$ less than ¥60
$$ ¥60 to ¥120
$$$ more than ¥120
SLEEPING PRICE INDICATORS
$ less than ¥300
$$ ¥300 to ¥800
$$$ more than ¥800
5Eating
Hángzhōu has endless zones dedicated to the art of feasting – try Gaoyin Jie, a long sprawl of neon-lit restaurants or Zhongshan South Road Food Street. Many of the smarter restaurants around the West Lake itself also offer good-value and interesting meals.
oGreen Tea RestaurantHANGZHOU$
(绿茶, Lǜchá
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 250 Jiefang Lu, 解放路250号 mains from ¥20; h10.30am-11pm; 
mLongxiangqiao)
Often packed, this excellent Hángzhōu restaurant has superb food. With a bare-brick finish and rows of clay teapots, the low-lit dining room is sleek and trendy. Prices are surprisingly low, with the signature fish-head dish the most expensive thing on the menu at ¥48. Eggplant claypot and a Cantonese bread and ice-cream dessert are also sensational.
Ordering can get complicated: scan the QR code on the table and select dishes direct through the menu that will load up on your phone. If you're having trouble, staff are happy to help.
oGrandma’s HomeHANGZHOU$
(外婆家, Wàipójiā
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 3 Hubin Lu, 湖滨路3号 mains ¥15-35; hlunch & dinner; mLongxiangqiao)
There's no end to the hype about this restaurant, which now has branches across the whole country, with eager diners constantly clustering outside. It almost lives up to its reputation, with low prices and generous portions but dishes do vary enormously in quality. The braised pork and tea-scented chicken are both good bets to get a taste of classic Hangzhou flavours.
Take a paper ticket when you arrive and be prepared to wait a long time for a table.
Zhongshan South Road Food StreetMARKET$
(中山南路美食街, Zhōngshān Nánlù Diàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Zhongshan Nanlu, 中山南路美食街 h5.30pm-late)
Hángzhōu is spoilt for choice when it comes to foodie streets, and this stretch of Zhongshan Nanlu (starting at the Drum Tower) is an absolute delight. Casual sit-down restaurants line the road, and stalls that run along the middle of the road sell everything from fresh seafood and deep-fried insects to Beggar's Chicken and the absolute stinkiest of stinky tofu.
Northwest Family RestaurantXINJIANG$
(西北人家, Xīběi Rénjiā
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 22 Youdian Lu, 上城区邮电路9号 mains ¥35-45; h9.30am-11.30pm)
A busy neighbourhood restaurant serving typical Uighur fare with rich, hearty gravies, lots of lamb and bread. The range of fresh fish and traditional soups is also excellent. Quiet during the day, this place does a roaring trade at night, with a barbecue of meat skewers outside, available to have at your table or takeaway.
Xièxie Tea & CoffeeCAFE$
(谢谢咖啡, Xièxie Kāfēi
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 180 Nanshan Lu, 南山路180号 mains ¥47-67; h9am-midnight; W)
A beautifully airy three-storey cafe, Xièxie looks out onto the treetops of the park over the road and is a great spot to unwind over a cup of tea or coffee. A young crowd armed with phones, laptops and tablets sprawl on comfy sofas that are never more than arm's reach from a plug socket.
Yīhé Zángxiāng Beef NoodlesNOODLES$
(伊禾藏香牛肉面, Yīhé Zángxiāng Niúròu Miàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 238 Yan'an Lu, 延安路238号 noodles from ¥19; h6.30am-11.30pm)
A superb lunch stop, where the restaurant's namesake – beef noodles – is a must-order. These are done Lanzhou-style (read: magnificently fiery) and the meat is served separately so you can drop it in yourself. Long spacious tables looking out onto bustling Yan'an Lu make this a great stop for families or solo diners, and service is efficient and friendly.
Innocent Age Book BarCHINESE$
(纯真年代书吧, Chúnzhēn Niándài Shūbā 8 Baochuta Qian Lu, 保俶塔前山路8号 dishes from ¥22; h9.30am-midnight)
You couldn't ask for a prettier setting than this cafe, set just down the slope of Bǎoshí Shān from Bǎochù Pagoda. Indoors, there's a quiet reading-room atmosphere and the shelves are full of books. Outside is a glorious terrace overlooking the West Lake. Snacks, cakes, tea and coffee are available or for good-value fuel before you continue your walk, go for a huge and flavoursome bowl of Hángzhōu beef noodles.
Nan Fang Mi ZongDUMPLINGS$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Youdian Lu, 邮电路 per bun ¥2; h6.30am-6.30pm)
Who would have thought the humble bāozi could taste so good? The fluffy steamed buns served at this small stall near the Rénhé Hotel building are simply huge, and come with either pork or a sweet bean filling. The pork ones are sensational, with top-quality meat and a rich gravy. Queues stretch right down the street in the morning.
CarbonEUROPEAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 10 Beishan Lu, 北山路10号 mains ¥130-250; h11am-11pm)
The crowd is super-stylish, the lakeside location is outstanding, and the chandeliers, gorgeous botanical arrangements and soft-wood decor make Carbon a fine place for an evening meal. The food itself doesn't quite live up to the lovely setting, with a menu that's trying to please everyone and zigzags between cuisines (think baked snails to flammekueche via pineapple fried rice).
Follow up your meal with a drink in the balmy night air on the outdoor terrace if the mood takes you.
HáNGZHōU IN...
ONE DAY
Day trippers should start as early as possible to enjoy the misty air and relative solitude of the early-morning West Lake. Stroll along the water's edge until you come to one of the cruise boat departure points and settle back to enjoy the ride to Xiǎoyíng Island and Gushan Island. Both deserve at least an hour to explore at a leisurely pace. Jump in a taxi to the glorious Léifēng Pagoda, climbing to the top to see Hángzhōu's finest panorama, then cross the road to visit Jìngcí Temple and admire the huge seated Buddha effigy. Finish the day with a slap-up meal at Green Tea.
TWO DAYS
Take a morning hike into Hángzhōu's hills, stopping off to see the serene Bàopǔ Taoist Temple (抱朴道院; Bàopǔ Dàoyuàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ¥5; h6am-5pm) along the route. Coming back into town, take some time to stroll through one of Hángzhōu's green spaces, such as Qūyuàn Garden or Tàizǐwān Park before continuing to the noisy buzz of Qīnghéfāng Old Street for a spot of shopping. Walk to Zhongshan South Road Food Street to try everything from local delicacy Beggar's Chicken or squid on sticks to fresh seafood and juice. Once full, head to JZ Club or Midtown Brewery for great drinks, music and a taste of Hángzhōu's increasingly sophisticated nightlife.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oJZ ClubCLUB
(黄楼, Huáng Lóu
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8702 8298; www.jzclub.cc; 6 Liuying Lu, by 266 Nanshan Lu, 柳营路6号 h7pm-2.30am)
The folk that brought you JZ Club in Shànghǎi have the live jazz scene sewn up in Hángzhōu with this neat three-floor venue in a historic building near West Lake. There are three live jazz sets nightly, with music kicking off at 9.15pm (until 12.30am). There's no admission charge, but you’ll need to reserve a seat on Fridays and Saturdays.
Smokers get to go upstairs.
oMidtown BreweryPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1st fl, Shangri-la Hotel, 6 Changshou Lu, 长寿路6号杭州城中香格里拉大酒店1楼 )
The craft-beer craze has certainly hit Hángzhōu and the standout place to sample some top-notch craft beers is Midtown Brewery. Housed in the Shangri-La hotel, the beers are brewed on-site and are genuinely outstanding. If you need convincing, order the tasting paddle (¥99) of seven samplers, including pale ale, porter and stout. Service is smooth and the setting smart and contemporary.
Eudora StationBAR
(亿多瑞站, Yìduōruìzhàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 101-107 Nanshan Lu, 南山路101-107号 h9.30am-2am)
A fab location by West Lake, roof terrace, outside seating and great happy-hour deals conspire to make this welcoming watering hole a solid choice. There’s sports TV, live music, a good range of imported beers, and barbecues fire up on the roof terrace in the warmer months.
WEST LAKE CRUISE BOATS
West Lake Cruise BoatsBOATING
(游船, Yóuchuán
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Hubin Lu, 湖滨路 round trip adult/child ¥70/35; h7am-5pm)
Wooden cruise boats shuttle from a number of points around West Lake (including Gushan Island, Yue Fei Temple, Red Carp Pond and No 1 Park at the south end of Hubin Lu) past the Mid-Lake Pavilion to Xiǎoyíng Island, which has a fine central pavilion and ‘nine-turn’ causeway. Boats depart either every 20 minutes or when full.
Your ticket allows you to take another boat on to Gushan Island or to any of the other cruise-boat docks.
If you want to contemplate the moon at a slower pace, hire one of the smaller six or 11 person boats (小船; xiǎo chuán; about one hour; small boat ¥150, large boat ¥180) rowed by a boatsperson. Look for them along the causeways. Self-rowing boats are also available, but foreign tourists are not allowed to access these without a Chinese escort.
7Shopping
Hángzhōu Silk CitySILK
(丝绸城, Sīchóu Shìchǎng
GOOGLE MAP
; 253 Xinhua Lu, 新华路253号 h8am-5pm)
Hángzhōu is famous for its silks and there are certainly bargains to be found in this seven-storey market. You'll have to work hard to get them, though. Head straight for the 5th and 6th floors (lower levels just sell regular clothes) to find scarves, slinky nightwear, dresses, qìpào (traditional Chinese sheath dresses) and other silk items. If you haggle with persistence, vendors will usually let you bargain them down by around 30%.
Wushan Lu Night MarketMARKET
(吴山路夜市, Wúshān Lù Yèshì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Huixing Lu, 惠兴路 h7-10.30pm)
Wushan Lu Night Market doesn't have too much to offer by way of interesting souvenirs, but it's still a pleasant place to stroll for half an hour or so. Stalls sell knock-off cosmetics and bags, cheap clothes, shoes, plastic jewellery and other knick-knacks to an excited crowd of mostly teenagers. Get the gloves off and haggle hard if something catches your eye.
Better still, spend your cash at the street-food stalls that line Renhe Lu, where you can pick up skewers of spicy beancurd, seasoned sweetcorn, noodles, fried dumplings and a vast range of other snacks.
The market is located on Huixing Lu (惠兴路), between Youdian Lu (邮电路) and Renhe Lu (仁和路).
WEST LAKE HILLS WALK
For a manageable and breezy trek into the forested hills above West Lake, walk up a lane called Qixialing, immediately west of the Yuè Fēi Temple. The road initially runs past the temple’s west wall to enter the shade of towering trees, with stone steps leading you up. At Zǐyún Cave (Purple Cloud Cave; 紫云洞 GOOGLE MAP ) the hill levels out and the road forks; take the right-hand fork towards the Bàopǔ Taoist Temple, 1km further, and the Bǎochù Pagoda. At the top of the steps, turn left and, passing the Sunrise Terrace, again bear left. Down the steps, look out for the tiled roofs and yellow walls of the charming Bàopǔ Taoist Temple to your right; head right along a path to reach it. Come out of the temple’s back entrance and turn left towards the Bǎochù Pagoda and, after hitting a confluence of three paths, take the middle track towards and up Toad Hill (蛤蟆峰; Hámá Fēng), which affords supreme views over the lake, before squeezing through a gap between huge boulders to meet the Bǎochù Pagoda rising ahead. Restored many times, the seven-storey grey brick pagoda was last rebuilt in 1933, although its spire tumbled off in the 1990s. Continue on down and pass through a páilou (牌楼) – or decorative arch – erected during the Republic (with some of its characters scratched off) to a series of stone-carved Ming-dynasty effigies ( GOOGLE MAP ), all of which were vandalised in the tumultuous 1960s, save two effigies on the right. Turn left here and walk a short distance to some steps heading downhill to your right past the remarkable weathered remains of a colossal stone Buddha by the cliff-face (with square niches cut in him) – all that remains of the Big Buddha Temple. Continue on down to Beishan Lu.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Hángzhōu is overall a safe, clean city. It's wise to take extra care on public holidays when crowds can be overwhelming.
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Local attitudes towards members of the LGBT community are mixed, but there are a handful of thriving gay bars in Hángzhōu. Check out local listings mag More Hangzhou (http://morehangzhou.com) for more info.
Internet Access
Twenty-four-hour internet cafes are in abundance around the main train station (typically ¥8 per hour); look for the neon signs ‘网吧’.
Medical Services
Zhèjiāng University First Affiliated HospitalHOSPITAL
(浙江大学医学院附属第一医院, Zhèjiāng Dàxué Yīxuéyuàn Fùshǔ Dìyī Yīyuàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8723 6114; 79 Qingchun Lu, 庆春路79号 h8am-4pm)
Money
Bank of China – Yanan LuBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 320 Yanan Lu, 延安路320号 h9am-5pm)
A useful central branch with currency exchange.
Bank of China – Laodong LuBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 177 Laodong Lu, 劳动路 177 h9am-5pm)
Offers currency exchange plus 24-hour ATM.
Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 300 Yan’an Lu, 延安路300号 )
Has a 24-hour ATM.
Public Security Bureau
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8728 0600; 35 Huaguang Lu; h8.30am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
Can extend visas.
Post
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng
GOOGLE MAP
; 284 Fengqi Lu, 鳳起路284號 h9am-5.30pm)
Western Union, ATM and currency exchange service offered here.
Tourist Information
Asking at, or phoning up, your hostel or hotel for info can be very handy.
Hángzhōu Tourist Information Centre (杭州旅游咨询服务中心; Hángzhōu Lǚyóu Zīxún Fúwù Zhōngxīn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8797 8123; Léifēng Pagoda, Nanshan Lu; 雷峰塔 南山路 h8am-5pm) Provides basic travel info, free maps and tours. Other branches include Hángzhōu train station and 10 Huaguang Lu, just off Qīnghéfāng Old Street.
Tourist Complaint Hotline (%0571 8796 9691) Can assist visitors with problems or issues during their stay. No English is spoken.
Travellers Infoline (%0571 96123; h6.30am to 9pm) Helpful 24-hour information, with English service from 6.30am to 9pm.
Travel with Children
Most of Hángzhōu's activities are child-friendly, from lighting incense in temples, to gentle boat trips and exploring parks and gardens. Children are always welcomed in restaurants, regardless of the hour.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Hángzhōu Airport has flights to all major Chinese cities (bar Shànghǎi) and international connections to Hong Kong, Macau, Tokyo, Singapore and other destinations. Several daily flights connect to Běijīng and Guǎngzhōu.
Most hotels will also book flights, generally with a ¥20 to ¥30 service charge. The Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC; 中国民航; Zhōngguó Mínháng
GOOGLE MAP
; %0571 8666 8666; 390 Tiyuchang Lu; h7.30am-8pm) office is in the north of town.
Bus
All four bus stations are outside the city centre; tickets can be conveniently bought for all stations from the bus ticket office (长途汽车售票处; Chángtú Qìchē Shòupiàochù
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Chengzhan Lu; 城站路 h6.30am-5pm) right off the exit from Hángzhōu’s main train station.
Buses leave Shànghǎi's South Station frequently for Hángzhōu’s various bus stations (¥68, 2½ hours). Buses to Hángzhōu also run every 30 minutes between 10am and 9pm from Shànghǎi’s Hóngqiáo airport (¥100, two hours). Regular buses also run to Hángzhōu from Shànghǎi’s Pǔdōng International Airport (¥110, three hours).
Buses from the huge Main Bus Station (客运中心站; Kéyùn Zhōngxīn %0571 8765 0678; Jiubao Zhijie; 九堡直街 ) at Jiǔbǎo, in the far northeast of Hángzhōu (and linked to the centre of town by metro, a taxi will cost around ¥65):
ANíngbō ¥62, two hours, frequent
AWūzhèn ¥27 to ¥30, one hour, 16 daily
AXīn'ānjiāng ¥35 ¥42 two hours, eight daily
Buses from the North Bus Station (汽车北站; Qìchē Běizhàn 766 Moganshan Lu):
ANíngbō ¥65, two hours, frequent
AShànghǎi ¥70, 2½ hours, frequent
ASūzhōu ¥73, two hours, frequent
ATónglǐ ¥64, two hours, frequent
Buses from the West Bus Station (汽车西站; Qìchē Xīzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; 357 Tianmushan Lu):
AWùyuán ¥140, 4½ hours, 9.20am and 1.40pm
AXīnyè ¥61, 2½ hours, 8.20am and 1.50pm
Train
The easiest way to travel to Hángzhōu from Shànghǎi Hóngqiáo Train Station is on the high-speed G- and D- class trains to Hángzhōu East Train Station (杭州东站; Hángzhōu Dōngzhàn Dongning Lu; 东宁路 ). For Běijīng, the overnight Z10 (soft sleeper ¥537) departs Hángzhōu Main Train Station (杭州火车站; Hángzhōu Huǒchēzhàn %0571 8762 2362; Chengzhan Lu; 城站路 ) at 6.05pm, arriving at 7.40am, and the handy T32 (hard/soft sleeper ¥351/¥537) departs at 6.20pm, arriving at 10.21am. Most G class trains to Běijīng leave from Hángzhōu East Train Station.
G-class trains running from the huge new Hángzhōu East Train Station, linked to the centre of town by metro, include:
ABěijīng South 2nd/1st class ¥538/907, six hours, frequent
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo Train Station 2nd/1st class ¥73/117, one hour, frequent
AShàoxīng North 2nd/1st class ¥20/33, 20 minutes, frequent
ASūzhōu 2nd/1st class ¥111/178, 1½ hours, three daily
AXiàmén North Train Station 2nd/1st class ¥281/357, seven hours, one daily
AWēnzhōu South Train Station 2nd/1st class ¥153/218, three hours, frequent
Daily G-class high-speed trains from Hángzhōu Main Train Station:
ABěijīng South Train Station 2nd/1st class ¥629/1056, 6½ hours, two daily
ANánjīng South Train Station 2nd/1st class ¥117/198, 2½ hours, five daily
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo Train Station 2nd/1st class ¥78/124, 55 minutes, frequent from 6.10am until 8.26pm
ASūzhōu 2nd/1st class ¥118 to ¥184, 1½ hours, two daily
Daily sleepers to Běijīng depart from Hángzhōu Main Train Station (杭州火车站; Hángzhōu Huǒchēzhàn %0571 8762 2362; Chengzhan Lu; 城站路 ) at 5.17pm, 6.20pm and 7.24pm, soft/hard sleeper ¥583/351, 16-20 hours.
A handy train ticket office (火车票售票处; Huǒchēpiào Shòupiàochù
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 147 Huansha Lu; 浣纱路147号 h8am-5pm) is north of Jiefang Lu, just east of West Lake. Other offices are at 72 Baochu Lu (near turning with Shengfu Lu) and 149 Tiyuchang Lu. Train tickets are also available at certain China Post branches including 10 Desheng Lu and 60 Fengqi Lu.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Hángzhōu’s airport is 30km from the city centre; taxi drivers ask around ¥100 to ¥130 for the trip. Shuttle buses (¥20, one hour) run every 15 minutes between 5am and 9pm from the CAAC office (also stopping at the train station).
Bicycle
The best way to rent a bike is to use the Hángzhōu Bike Hire Scheme (%0571 8533 1122; www.hzzxc.com.cn; deposit ¥200, credit ¥100; h6.30am-9pm Apr-Oct, 6am-9pm Nov-Mar). Stations (2700 in total) are dotted in large numbers around the city, in what is one of the world’s largest networks. Apply at one of the booths at numerous bike stations near West Lake; you will need your passport as ID. Fill in a form and you will receive a swipe card, then swipe the pad at one of the docking stations till you get a steady green light, free a bike and Bob’s your uncle.
Return bikes to any other station (ensure the bike is properly docked before leaving it). The first hour on each bike is free, so if you switch bikes within the hour, the rides are free. The second hour on the same bike is ¥1, the third is ¥2 and after that it’s ¥3 per hour. Your deposit and unused credit are refunded to you when you return your swipe card (check when it should be returned as this can vary). Note you cannot return bikes outside booth operating hours as the swipe units deactivate (you will be charged a whole night’s rental).
Bus
Hángzhōu has a clean, efficient bus system and getting around is easy (but roads are increasingly gridlocked). ‘Y’ buses are tourist buses; ‘K’ is simply an abbreviation of ‘kōngtiáo’ (air-con). Tickets are ¥2 to ¥5. The following are popular bus routes:
ABus K7 Usefully connects the Main Train Station to the western side of West Lake and Língyǐn Temple.
ATourist bus Y2 Goes from the Main Train Station, along Beishan Lu and up to Língyǐn Temple.
ABuses 15 and K15 Connects the North Bus Station to the northwest area of West Lake.
ABus 27 Runs from Beishan Lu to Lóngjǐng Tea Village.
ABuses K4 and 334 Run from downtown to the Six Harmonies Pagoda.
Metro
Hángzhōu’s metro line 1 (tickets ¥2 to ¥8; first/last train 6.06am/11.32pm) runs from the southeast of town, through the Main Train Station, along the east side of West Lake and on to the East Train Station, the Main Bus Station and the northeast of town. It's not very useful for sightseeing around town. Line 2 runs south from Chaoyang to Qianjiang Road and Line 4 runs from Pengbu to Jinjiang, with a south extension to Puyan expected to open in 2017. Other lines are planned for the future.
Taxi
Metered Hyundai taxis are ubiquitous and start at ¥11; figure on around ¥20 to ¥25 from the main train station (queues can be horrendous) to Hubin Lu.
WORTH A TRIP
QIáNTáNG RIVER TIDAL BORE
An often spectacular natural phenomenon occurs every month on Hángzhōu’s Qiántáng River (钱塘江), when the highest tides of the lunar cycle dispatch a wall of water – sometimes almost 9m tall – thundering along the narrow mouth of the river from Hángzhōu Bay, at up to 40km per hour. Occasionally sweeping astonished sightseers away and luring bands of intrepid surfers, this awesome tidal bore (钱塘江潮; qiántáng jiāngcháo) is the world’s largest and can be viewed from the riverbank in Hángzhōu, but one of the best places to witness the action is on the north side of the river at Yánguān (盐官), a delightful ancient town about 38km northeast of Hángzhōu.
The most popular viewing time is during the International Qiántáng River Tide Observing Festival, on the 18th day of the eighth month of the lunar calendar (the same day as the mid-autumn festival), which usually falls in September or October. You can, however, see it throughout the year when the highest tide occurs at the beginning and middle of each lunar month; access to the park in Yánguān for viewing the tide is ¥25. The Hángzhōu Tourist Information Centre can give you upcoming tide times. To make it a day trip, a through ticket (¥100) is available in Yánguān to explore the charming historic temples and buildings of the town.
Take a train (¥92, 35 minutes) fom Hángzhōu East to Hǎiníng (海宁) and change to bus 109 (¥10, 25 minutes) to Yánguān.
Mògànshān 莫干山
%0572
Refreshingly cool in summer and sometimes smothered in spectral fog, Mògànshān (莫干山; Mògànshān ¥80) (莫干山), 60km northeast of Hángzhōu, is famed for its scenic vistas, forested views, towering bamboo and stone villa architecture. It was developed as a hilltop resort by 19th-century Europeans living in Shànghǎi. Largely abandoned during the second half of the last century, it is now seeing a new buzz of activity (and construction), reclaiming its reputation as a weekend bolt-hole for expat tàitai (wives) fleeing the simmering lowland heat.
1Sights
The best way to enjoy Mògànshān is just to wander the winding forest paths, taking in some of the architecture en route. There’s Shànghǎi gangster Du Yuesheng’s old villa (杜月笙别墅, Dù Yuèshēng biéshù) – now serving as a hotel; the villa where Chiang Kaishek spent his honeymoon; a couple of churches (375 Moganshan and 419 Moganshan); and many other villas linked (sometimes tenuously) with the rich and famous, including a house (毛主席下榻处; Máo Zhǔxí Xiàtàchù 126 Moganshan; 莫干山126号 ) where Chairman Mao once napped.
To preserve the mood you will have to work hard to ignore the often slapdash new constructions. Genuine, older villas are identifiable by their irregularly shaped stones.
2Activities
Besides the attractions on the summit, you can strike out on longer hikes, including the five-hour loop, known colloquially as the 'temple hike', to an old, deserted temple; pick up a map at Mògànshān Lodge. Containing Tǎ Mountain (塔山; Tǎ Shān) in the northwest, the Dàkēng Scenic Area (大坑景区; Dàkēng Jǐngqū) is great for rambling.
Many accommodations also offer excursions, such as picking tea leaves in the fields nearby.
4Sleeping
Mògànshān is full of hotels of varying quality, many housed in former villas; room prices nearly double at weekends and some places require a two-night minimum booking. If you come in low season (eg early spring) you can expect good rates. Many hotels either shut up shop or close for renovation over the winter.
Mògànshān Fleecity ResortGUESTHOUSE$$
(莫干山离城度假别墅, Mògànshān Líchéng Dùjià Biéshù %0188 5722 9640; www.moganshan395.com; Láolǐngcǔn Sānjiúwù, 劳岭村三九坞 d weekday/weekend from ¥599/799; 
pnaW)
S
Fleecity is located halfway up the mountain (meaning you can stay here and dodge the entry fee), surrounded by bamboo (though construction sites inch ever nearer). There are only eight rooms; some have balconies while some have Japanese-style tatami floors. The best part is the food: dinners (¥80 per person) feature local produce, like wild mushrooms and bamboo, prepared home-style.
oLe Passage Mohkan ShanBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(莫干山里法国山居, Mògànshānlǐ Fǎguóshānjū %0572 805 2958; www.lepassagemoganshan.com; Xiānrénkēng Tea Plantation, Zǐlǐng Village, 紫岭村仙人坑茶厂 weekday/weekend from ¥2680/3180; nWs)S
Le Passage evokes the glamorous cosmopolitan history of Mògànshān perhaps better than the actually historic villas do. Ensconced within an organic tea plantation, the main house and five bungalows were designed by owners Christophe Peres and Pauline Lee to look like a classic colonial-era hill station, with high ceilings, a wood-burning stove in the salon and a spring-fed swimming pool.
Mògànshān House 23HOTEL$$$
(莫干山杭疗23号, Mògànshān Hángliáo 23 Hào %0572 803 3822; www.moganshanhouse23.com; 23 Moganshan, 莫干山23号 d & tw weekday/weekend from ¥900/1200; naW)
This restored, 100-year-old villa on top of the mountain has heaps of period charm. It’s also kid-friendly with a family room, baby chairs and swings in the garden. With only six rooms, book well in advance, especially for weekend stays (when it’s a minimum two-night stay). Staff speak English.
5Eating
Yinshan Jie (荫山街), the main strip on the summit, has a few restaurants, but most visitors eat in their lodgings.
Mògànshān LodgeINTERNATIONAL$$
(马克的咖啡厅, Mǎkè de Kāfēitīng %0572 803 3011; www.moganshanlodge.com; Songliang Shanzhuang, off Yinshan Jie, 松粮山庄 h9am-9pm; W
v
c)
Grab a book from the shelves (there are many in English) and curl up in one of the vintage armchairs here with a pot of tea. Should you decide to stretch your legs, Mògànshān Lodge is your best source for advice and local maps. The kitchen cooks up roast dinners (by reservation only), full English breakfasts and sandwiches.
8Information
Be warned that the sole ATM on the mountain, on Yinshan Jie, often has no cash.
China PostBANK
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng 40 Moganshan, 莫干山40号 h8.30-11am & 1-4pm)
8Getting There & Away
The nearest train station is Déqīng (德清), a 15-minute ride (¥11 to ¥18) on one of the frequent high-speed trains from Hángzhōu East. The last return train is at 10.06pm. There are two trains daily from Shànghǎi Hóngqiáo (¥94, 1¾ hours, 7.28am and 6.05pm).
You can also go by bus from Hángzhōu's main bus station to Déqīng (¥18, one hour, six daily).
Now comes the expensive part: getting a taxi from the bus or train station to Mògànshān, which will cost ¥120 to ¥150. Most lodgings can arrange transport from Déqīng, Hángzhōu or even Shànghǎi – at a mark-up of course.
Don't take a sānlúnchē (three-wheel scooter) as they will drop you at the foot of the mountain.
Wūzhèn 乌镇
%0573 / Pop 59,000
Like many of the other famous water towns, Wūzhèn (乌镇) was part of the Grand Canal and prospered from trade and silk production. It's a major tourist attraction, and with its crowds and rows of souvenir shops its easy to write off Wūzhèn as inauthentic. But then you turn a corner and get a view of, say, an ancient stone bridge curving over a canal or a row of weathered Qing dynasty wooden homes, and realise: this place really is beautiful. It's also easily explored, with good transit links and plenty of English on the ground.
1Sights
The old town is divided into two scenic areas: Dōngzhà (东栅 ¥100; h7am-5.30pm, till 6pm in summer) and Xīzhà (西栅 ¥120, ¥80 after 5pm; h9am-10pm, till 10.30pm in summer); a combined ticket to visit the two areas costs ¥150. Most of the row homes in both areas have been transformed into museums, galleries and artisan workshops (with giftshops), snack vendors and restaurants. All are free to enter, though you may be required to show your village admission ticket.
The Xīzhà scenic zone covers more ground than Dōngzhà, has the visitor centre and is where bus 305 drops passengers off first. For day trippers it makes sense to start here, take the free shuttle to Dōngzhà and then grab a sānlúnchē on Xinhua Lu (新华路), which runs perpendicular to Dōngzhà's main drag, Dong Dajie, back to the bus station. If you're overnighting in Xīzhà, you might want to start in Dōngzhà. Admission tickets are for one day only, but if you spend the night in Xīzhà you won't need a ticket to enter the next day.
Dōngzhà Scenic Zone
The main street of the Dōngzhà scenic zone, Dongda Jie (东大街), is a narrow path paved with stone slabs and flanked by wooden buildings. There are workshops here turning out indigo-dyed cloth, bamboo weavings and the like. Most sights are open from 8am to 5pm. Dōngzhà feels more lived in than Xīzhà, though as the road is narrow it can feel a bit claustrophobic when busy.
Jiāngnán Wood Carving MuseumMUSEUM
(江南木雕陈列馆, Jiāngnán Mùdiāo Chénlièguǎn 420 Dong Dajie, 东大街420号, Dōngzhà, 东栅 h8am-5pm)
A fine collection of wood carvings from around the region, though unfortunately no explanations as to when they were created or what symbolism is evoked.
Ancient Beds MuseumMUSEUM
(百床馆, Bǎichuǎngguǎn 212 Dong Dajie, 东大街212号, Dōngzhà; 东栅 h8am-5pm)
Though very few beds here qualify as even remotely ancient, there are some beautiful examples of elaborately carved traditional beds, along with some explanations of the symbolism etched upon them (grapes, for example, signify a hope for plenty of sons and grandsons).
Huìyuán Pawn HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(汇源当铺, Huìyuán Dàngpù Changfeng Jie, 常丰街, Dōngzhà; 东栅 h8am-5pm)
Once a famous pawnshop that eventually expanded to branches in Shànghǎi, this old shop is bare now, though the high counter – where the owner lorded over those who came to pawn their possessions – remains.
Xīzhà Scenic Zone
The Xīzhà scenic zone is the more photogenic of the two zones, as its main street, Xizha Dajie (西栅大街) is criss-crossed with bridges from where you can gaze upon the canals. This is where visitors spend most of their time.
Chinese Footbinding Culture MuseumMUSEUM
(三寸金莲馆, Sāncùn Jīnlián Guǎn 349 Xizha Dajie, 西栅大街349号, Xīzhà; 西栅 h8am-5pm)
With plenty of English, this fascinating museum covers the thousand-year history of female footbinding in China with examples of the shoes that constituted, as captions in the museum attest to, 'The Golden Lotus complex that was the freakish mentality of the males at that time'. Periodically banned, footbinding was final abolished in the 20th century.
Yuèlǎo TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(月老庙, Yuèlǎo Miào Xīzhà, 西栅 )
Singles and couples alike come here to win the favour of the god of love (who, interestingly, appears here as an old man) by lighting incense and tying red-stringed charms to trees around the temple.
White Lotus PagodaBUDDHIST SITE
(白莲塔, Báilián Tǎ h8am-5pm)
This seven-storey pagoda is a beacon at the far west end of the Xīzhà scenic zone. You can climb up to the 3rd floor for excellent views over the Grand Canal.
4Sleeping & Eating
Wūzhèn is a lovely place to stay overnight, although you can easily make it a day trip from either Shànghǎi or Hángzhōu. Only the Xīzhà scenic zone is set up for overnight guests, with both budget and boutique inns. The visitor centre can make bookings, though you'll need to book ahead on weekends and holiday periods.
Restaurants and snack vendors are plentiful. Prices are fixed though not outrageous; for cheaper food look to restaurants along Xinhua Lu, which bisects the Dōngzhà scenic zone. Everything in Dōngzhà shuts up at 5pm; restaurants and stalls stay open until 9pm or 10pm in Xīzhà.
Wisteria Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(紫藤国际青年旅社, Zǐténg Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè %0573 8873 1332; wuzhenwisteria@163.com; 43 Sizuo Jie, 丝作街43号 4-/6-/8-bed dm ¥100/80/60, d from ¥350; W)
At the far west end of Xīzhà, in a creaky wooden building within stumbling distance of the bar strip, this hostel has basic but clean rooms and a pleasant common area that opens on to a large square. The dorms are the best value you'll find on a budget in Wūzhèn but the double rooms are only worthwhile with a discount.
Wūzhèn GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(乌镇民宿, Wūzhèn Mínsù %0573 8873 1088; wuzhen1@wuzhen.com.cn; 137 Xizha Dajie, 西栅大街137号 r from ¥340; a)
Stretching the length of Xizha Dajie, in the Xīzhà scenic zone, is this loose collection of canalside, family-run B&Bs in old wooden homes with modern amenities. Prices rise for rooms with river views and verandahs, and those in the middle of town (rooms are numbered 1 to 65) are generally considered more desirable as they're away from the main gates.
Reserve in advance (through the visitor centre booking hotline) if you've got your heart set on a verandah; otherwise you can book on arrival at the visitor centre or at the reception at 137 Xizha Dajie.
3Entertainment
Ten-minute martial-arts performances are held eight times daily on the aptly named Kungfu Boat (拳船; quán chuán), just inside the main entrance to the Dōngzhà scenic zone. Other performances, such as shadow puppet shows (píyǐngxì), take place irregularly in halls around both zones; look out for signs or inquire at the visitor centre for the day's schedule.
8Information
There are ATMs at the main entrances to both scenic zones.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng 500 Xizha Dajie, 西栅大街500号 h8am-5pm)
Midway down Xizha Dajie.
Wūzhèn Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(乌镇游客服务中心, Wūzhèn Yóukè Fúwù Zhōngxīn %0573 8873 1088; www.wuzhen.com.cn; Hongqiao Lu, 虹桥路 h8am-5.30pm)
At the entrance to the Xīzhà scenic zone, with left luggage and an accommodation booking counter.
8Getting There & Away
From Hángzhōu, buses (¥31, 75 minutes, hourly from 7am to 6.20pm) run regularly to Wūzhèn from the Main Bus Station. The last bus returns at 6.25pm.
From Shànghǎi, buses (¥61, two hours) run roughly every 30 minutes from Shànghǎi South Bus Station; the last return bus is at 6pm. Eight buses (¥35, 110 minutes) also run between Wūzhèn and Sūzhōu train station.
There are two daily buses to Nánxún at 8.30am and 1.30pm (60 minutes, ¥10), but no direct buses in the opposite direction.
8Getting Around
Bus 350 (¥2, 7am to 5.30pm, frequent) runs in a loop from Wūzhèn bus station to Xīzhà scenic zone and Dōngzhà scenic zone and then back to the bus station. A free shuttle bus (7.40am to 5.20pm, every 20 minutes) runs between the main entrance to both scenic zones.
Sānlúnchē (pedicabs) can be picked up at Wūzhèn bus station and on Xinhua Lu (新华路), at the west end of the Dōngzhà scenic zone. Rides between the two zones or the bus station cost ¥10. It is possible to walk between the two zones in 20 minutes.
Nánxún 南浔
%0572 / Pop 491,000
Established during the Southern Song dynasty, Nánxún (南浔) rose to prominence in the Ming and Qing dynasties, when it became a key trading point along the grand canal from Běijīng to Hángzhōu. Merchants made fortunes in silk and translated it into decadent homes. It's now a sprawling city, on the border with Jiāngsū province, but the old town within it is well preserved. Like other towns on the water, Nánxún has arched stone bridges, meandering lanes and old wooden houses. What sets it apart is its fascinating mix of Chinese and European architecture – and comparatively few visitors.
1Sights
Nánxún's scenic area (¥100, 7.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8am-4.30pm Nov-Mar) stretches a couple of kilometres along a network of canals and is easily walkable in half a day. The waterway along Nanxi Lu (南溪路) is the largest, and the most touristy; it runs perpendicular to Dongdajie (东大街), another canal-lined street. From Dongdajie, several bridges cross over to Bǎijiānlóu, the most atmospheric – and least crowded – part. If you arrive by public bus, you'll enter from Bǎijiānlóu. The main ticket office is at the opposite end of Nanxi Lu, which means you may be able to dodge the admission fee, though you'll need a ticket to enter any of the sights (the ticket covers entry to all of them). The scenic area is well signposted in English.
BǎijiānlóuHISTORIC SITE
(百间楼, Hundred Room Corridor )
Oddly overlooked by most visitors, this stretch of 100 (or so) wooden row houses, flanking a narrow canal, is Nánxún's most charming spot. Most houses are still lived in, with residents running small tea shops on their waterfront patios.
Zhangshiming's Former ResidenceHISTORIC BUILDING
(张石铭旧居, Zhāng Shí Míng Jiùjū Nanxi Lu, 南溪路 )
The grandest of Nánxún's wealthy merchant homes looks like a classic Chinese manor, with ornate carvings in wood, stone and brick – until you reach deep into the interior, which hides a European-style ballroom, complete with crown moulding, crystal chandelier and brocade drapery. Other European touches draw on both Renaissance and Baroque styles. The combined effect is both fascinating and bizarre, a well preserved portrait of the cultural exchange between China and the West at the turn of the last century.
4Sleeping
Nánxún is an easy day trip from Hángzhōu, though there are a handful of inns here nestled among the canals if you choose to stay.
Bayside InnINN$$
(云水谣客栈, Yúnshuǐyáo Kèzhàn %0572 301 7919; 71 Dongdajie, 东大街71号 d from ¥360; aW)
The best value inn on the water in Nánxún has clean, if compact, rooms with modern amenities and friendly staff, who try their best at English. All the rooms are a little different, so have a look around. Naturally the best ones have windows opening over the canal.
5Eating
Tourist restaurants line Nanxi Lu, which runs alongside the town's largest canal. For cheap eats head to Nandongjie (南东街), lined with noodle shops, just over Tōngjīn Bridge (通津桥; Tōngjīnqiáo) from Dongdajie.
ZhuàngyuánlóuNOODLES$
(状元楼 Nandongjie, 南东街 noodles ¥7-12; h5am-10pm)
One of Nánxún's local specialities is shuāng jiāo miàn (双浇面), a kind of long thin wheat noodle in a rich, dark soy broth. This is the most popular shop in which to try it, though it looks nearly identical to others just like it (to spot it, look for the coal furnace outside). Once inside, you'll be led into the tiny kitchen to choose your toppings.
8Getting There & Away
Buses leave every 45 minutes (¥45, 1½ hours) from Hángzhōu’s north bus station (7.20am to 5.20pm); the last return bus is at 5.20pm.
Buses also depart for:
AShànghǎi ¥50, 2½ hours, frequent
ASūzhōu ¥25, one hour, every 20 to 40 minutes (7am to 5.50pm)
There is no direct bus from Nánxún to Wūzhèn; you'll need to take one of the hourly buses to Jiāxìng (嘉兴; ¥23, one hour) and transfer there for the hourly bus to Wūzhèn (¥11, one hour).
Nánxún's bus station is at the back entrance to the scenic area. Cross the overpass and in 50m you'll see a sign pointing you to the main sights.
THE BRIDGES OF TàISHùN COUNTY
Soggy Tàishùn (泰顺), in southeast Zhèjiāng, is China's living bridge museum: there are hundreds of covered wooden bridges – many centuries old, in varying stages of preservation and crumble – scattered around the countryside. The best of those that are easily accessible are the four clustered around the village of Sìxī (泗溪), which sits on the confluence of two streams.
From the nearby bus stop in Nánxī (南溪), it's a short 400m walk back through the village to Nánxī Bridge (南溪桥; Nánxī Qiáo ). What this level bridge lacks in grandeur it makes up for in usefulness: built in 1842, it's more local thoroughfare than tourist attraction.
Next head back 200m to the main village junction and turn right. In 1km you can turn right again and take a 3km detour up to Nányáng Bridge (南阳桥; Nányáng Qiáo ), a level wooden cantilever bridge, built in 1870 and situated in the grassy hills above town. Otherwise veer left for Xīdōng Bridge (溪东桥; Xīdōng Qiáo; Creek East Bridge ), in Sìxī proper, another 500m. Easily identified by its dramatic winged roof and deep vermilion staining, this Ming dynasty arched wooden bridge was first built in 1570 and later rebuilt in 1827.
From here, the village is well signposted in English. Follow signs to gracefully arching Běijiàn Bridge (北涧桥; Běijiàn Qiáo; North Stream Bridge ), the most picturesque of Sìxī's bridges, accessed by stone steps. It was originally built in 1674 and last rebuilt in 1803. Don't miss the 1000-year-old camphor tree just before it.
Just past Běijiàn Bridge, at the far end of the village, is the Covered Bridge Culture Hall (廊桥文化展厅; Lángqiáo Wénhuà Zhǎntīng ), which has models and information (in English!) on other noteworthy bridges in the area. If you're feeling ambitious, you can hire one of the unofficial taxi drivers (¥150 to ¥400, depending on the route) who haunt the Nánxī bus stop to take you around. Make sure the driver understands where to go before setting out, as some might not know the location of all the bridges. This map (www.langqio.net/map.asp) comes in handy.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
To get to Sìxī you need to first get to Wēnzhōu (温州), which is serviced by frequent high-speed trains from Shànghǎi Hóngqiáo (¥178 to ¥226, four hours) and Hángzhōu East (¥129 to ¥153, three hours). High-speed trains arrive at Wēnzhōu South (温州火车南站; Wēnzhōu Huǒchē Nánzhàn), 15km from downtown, from where you'll need to take a taxi (¥40, 25 minutes) to Niúshān Transport Centre (牛山客运中心; Niúshān Kèyùn Zhōngxīn), Wēnzhōu's central bus station. The sleeper train from Shànghǎi South (soft/hard sleeper ¥186/288, 11 hours, 11.30pm) arrives at the more convenient main train station, from where you can catch local buses 21, 23 and 107 (¥2, 20 minutes, frequent) to Niúshān.
At the bus station buy a ticket to Nánxī (南溪; ¥46, two hours, every 40 minutes 6.20am to 6.40pm) on the Tàishùn-bound bus. The last return bus leaves at 5pm; buy your ticket from the stall opposite the Nánxī bus stop, which has the timetable posted.
If you find yourself overnighting in Wēnzhōu, the E-X Palm D'or Hotel (意杰金棕榈酒店; Yìjié Jīnzōnglǘ Jiǔdiàn %0577 8802 2222; www.expalmhotel.com; 23 Minhang Lu; 明航路23号 r from ¥600; pnaiW), 3km from the bus station (and 15km from the high-speed-train station), is a comfortable choice.
Xīnyè 新叶
%0571 / Pop 3000
Cut with sparkling streams, centred on placid ponds and embraced by silent hills, the picturesque village of Xīnyè (新叶; ¥68, 8am-4pm) is populated by families sharing the surname Ye (叶) and an abundance of free-roaming chickens. The village is laid out in accordance with the traditional five element (五行; wǔ xíng) theory, so it's a balanced exercise in feng shui aesthetics. During spring, the village is framed by fields of bright yellow rapeseed.
1Sights
The elegant white Tuányún Pagoda (抟云塔; Tuányún Tǎ h8am-4pm) is the definitive image of Xīnyè and a good place to start a tour of the village. Built in 1567, the seven-storey tower symbolises hopes by its architects for a 'meteoric rise' for the village and generations to come. It's located near the tourist centre and next to Wénchāng Hall (文昌阁; Wénchāng Gé h8am-4pm), another noteworthy attraction. The latter contains a portrait of Confucius and an adjacent shrine (土地祠; tǔdì cí) to the village god (for good harvests). Smudged red Maoist slogans add their own narrative. Not far away, the Xīshān Ancestral Temple (西山祠堂; Xīshān Cítáng h8am-4pm) is the highest-ranking ancestral temple in the village and dates to the Yuan dynasty.
The Hall of Good Order (有序堂; Yǒuxù Táng h8am-4pm) is central to the village; its front door does not open so its accessible side door faces out onto pyramid-shaped Dàofēng Mountain (道峰山; Dàofēng Shān), across the waters of half-moon shaped South Pond (南塘; Nántáng), from where eight alleys radiate out through the village. Originally built in 1290 and rebuilt during the Republic, the hall contains some astonishing wood carvings of a deer, small birds and a monkey in the trees. At the end of the day, sit out next to the pond and watch old folk gathering to chat.
Shuāngměi Hall (双美堂; Shuāngměi Táng h8am-4pm) is another lovely wood-panelled structure containing intricate and exquisite carvings above pillars. At the time of research, Chóngrén Temple (崇仁堂; Chóngrén Táng h8am-4pm), located next to Half Moon Pond (半月塘; Bànyuè Táng), was undergoing reconstruction.
The village is signposted in Chinese; you can get a map at the tourist centre. The admission fee covers all the village sights; hold onto your ticket for entry.
4Sleeping
There are several guesthouses here and you'll see signs posted around the village.
Dàojīn RénjiāGUESTHOUSE$
(道金人家 %159 8816 0523; r ¥100)
A reliable option inside the village, with well kept but basic singles and doubles and meal service. The easiest way to get here from the bus stop is to continue down the main road and then turn right on the market lane; follow it around the bend and look for the guesthouse down an alley on the right.
There are also signs in English directing you from nearby South Pond.
5Eating
Xīnyè has just a couple of small eateries, though all guesthouses offer meals.
8Information
The nearest international ATMs are in Xīn'ānjiāng or Jīnhuá.
8Getting There & Away
There is a direct bus service from Hángzhōu's main bus station (¥61, two hours, 6.35am) and also from Hángzhōu’s west bus station (¥61, two hours, 8.20am and 1.50pm). A return bus leaves at 12.45pm.
Xīnyè also works as a convenient day trip from Zhūgě: buses to Xīnyè (¥4, 30 minutes) depart at 7.45am, 10.20am, 1.30pm and 5.15pm and return at 6.10am, 8.30am, noon and 3.20pm.
To get to the village from the bus dropoff, turn right and follow the stone path for a few minutes. Note that to get an admission ticket covering the sights, you'll need to go to the tourist centre at the far northeast corner of the village.
Zhūgě 诸葛
%0579 / Pop 4000
Photogenic Zhūgě (诸葛; 7.30am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter; ¥100; www.zhugevillage.cn) is a fascinating composition of traditional Chinese village architecture and feng shui planning: the village was designed according to the bāguà (八卦; eight trigrams) of the I Ching. Included in Zhūgě's meticulous plans are numerous snaking cobblestone alleyways – some only wide enough for one person to pass – intentionally designed (for purposes of protection) for outsiders to get hopelessly lost. This is naturally one of the pleasures of visiting.
Though Zhūgě is one of the most commercialised of the area villages, it remains visibly lived in. Residents are largely descendants of Zhuge Liang, who was a prime minister during the Three Kingdoms period.
1Sights
Entering from Gaolong Lu (高隆路), proceed downhill and around the corner to reach the lovely, huge Upper Pond (上塘; Shàng Táng). At the southern end of the pond, look for a sign leading to Tiānyī Hall (天一堂; Tiānyī Táng 7.30am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter), most noteworthy for its beautiful garden with flowering trees and hundreds of potted plants – all used for Chinese medicine.
Double back and look for Shòuchūn Hall (寿春堂; Shòuchūn Táng h7.30am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter) – one of Zhūgě’s 18 halls – itself a long sequence of chambers and courtyards. Just past it is Lower Pond (下塘; Xià Táng) and two additional halls: Dàjīng Hall (大经堂; Dàjīng Táng h7.30am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter) – housing a traditional Chinese medicine museum – and, up the steps, the Yōngmù Hall (雍睦堂; Yōngmù Táng h7.30am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter), a fine Ming dynasty hall with an eye-catching central stone door frame.
Eight (the number mirroring the eight trigrams of the bāguà) lanes radiate from Zhōng Pond (钟池; Zhōng Chí ) at the heart of the village. The feng shui symbol of the village, the circular pond resembles the Chinese twin-fish, yīn-yáng tàijí diagram, half filled in and the other half occupied with water. You can also spot the black trigrams (八卦; bāguà) above some windows of the whitewashed houses.
Overlooking the water is the splendid Dàgōng Hall (大公堂; Dàgōng Táng h7.30am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter), a huge, airy space with a pairing of huge black Chinese characters 武 (‘Wǔ’ or ‘Martial’) and 忠 (‘Zhōng’ or ‘Loyal’) on the walls outside. The memorial hall originally dates to the Yuan dynasty; note its two large and smooth drum stones. The Prime Minister’s Temple (丞相祠堂; Chéng Xiàng Cítáng h7.30am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter), an impressive and massive old hall with some intricately carved cross-beams in the roof, is nearby.
Admission to the village gets you into all the sights described above, so hold on to your ticket.
4Sleeping & Eating
The vast majority of visitors are day trippers so there is an advantage to overnighting in one of the few guesthouses here. Also the village is beautiful at dusk.
Restaurants are dotted around the village, but most are aimed at tourists. Along the eastern edge of the Upper Pond are some more local options, where villagers gather to drink tea and play mah-jong and you can get a bowl of noodles for ¥10. Food carts and fruit sellers gather at the bottom of Gaolong Lu, just outside the village.
Huāyuán GōngyùHOTEL$$
(花园公寓 %0579 8860 0336; 48 Yitai Xiang; 義泰巷48号 r with/without bathroom ¥60/288; a)
This quiet choice is set amid the garden at Tiānyī Hall, embellished with views over the village rooftops from the 2nd-floor corridor. The cheapest rooms come without shower and have rather flaky ceilings; of the pricier rooms, go for the less damp ones on the 2nd floor. Discounts are common.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Sunshine HouseTEAHOUSE
(昱棧, Yùzhàn h10am-9.30pm; W)
Overlooking Upper Pond, Sunshine House serves big pots of tea and espresso drinks (¥25 to ¥40).
8Information
The nearest international ATMs are in Xīn'ānjiāng or Jīnhuá.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng 330 Guodao, 国道330号 h8am-4.40pm)
At the bottom of Gaolong Lu, across the street.
Zhūgě Bus StationBUS STATION
(诸葛汽车站, Zhūgě Qìchēzhàn 330 Guodao, 3国道330号 )
8Getting There & Away
From Hángzhōu south bus station, direct buses to Zhūgě (¥60, two hours) leave at 8.40am and 3.50pm; there's also a bus from Hángzhōu's central bus station (¥59, two hours) at 12.30pm and west bus station (¥60, two hours) at 2.40pm. Going back to Hángzhōu there are 12 buses daily (6.15am to 6.20pm).
From Jīnhuá west bus station, buses depart nine times daily for Zhūgě (¥18 to ¥21, one hour, 6am to 3.10pm). Return buses (7.15am, 8.50am, 9am, 1.40pm, 5pm) depart from in front of the bus station, on the opposite side of the street.
Buses from Lánxī en route to Xīnyè swing by Zhūgě around 7.45am, 10.20am, 1.30pm and 5.15pm. You'll need to flag one down from the road in front of the bus station. In the return direction, buses from Xīnyè (¥4, 30 minutes) depart at 6.10am, 8.30am, noon and 3.20pm; the bus drops off at the foot of Gaolong Lu.
8Getting Around
Zhūgě bus station is on Rte 330, a 15-minute walk from the village. Walk east for 500m until you see the cluster of pedicabs and snack vendors that mark the entrance to Gaolong Lu. At the top of the road (300m) is the entrance to the village. You can also hire a pedicab from the bus station for ¥5. Some drivers will bypass the admission gate and take you straight into the village; note that without a ticket you won't be able to enter any of the ticketed structures (though you are free to walk around).
Sìpíng 寺平
%0579 / Pop 1600
Tiny Sìpíng (寺平), 30km west of Jīnhuá, was founded 700 years ago, and remains a remarkable repository of brick and wood carvings. Its seven original halls, built by generations of the Dai (戴) family, are arranged in the shape of the Big Dipper – to communicate harmony between the human and natural world. The village is blissfully uncommercial – though thanks to a new homestay program, it's well set up for visitors.
1Sights
The main entrance to Sìpíng (¥20, 8am to 4pm) is along the handle of the dipper. On your right will be Liben Hall, an early Qing dynasty structure with some wood carvings that remain impressively vivid; keep an eye out for the bats (carvings of, that is). In the cosmology of the village, this hall represents the star Phad.
Just a few paces from Chóngdé Hall (崇德堂; Chóngdé Táng), is Wǔjiān Huāxuān (五间花轩 ), marked by flowery brick carvings over the door. This is the birthplace of Dai Yinniang, Sìpíng's most famous historical resident – the village girl who became an imperial concubine. According to legend, when Yinniang was ill as a child, a monk in a vision told her father to construct a well near the house. He did, and after giving his daughter water from it to drink and wash, she became well – and more beautiful. The well still exists, adjacent to the house.
At the base of the dipper, and standing in for the star Alioth, is Chónghòu Hall (崇厚堂; Chónghòu Táng ). Its brick carving, 'Nine Lions Scrambling for a Ball', is noteworthy as much for its detail as for its seemingly impudent use of five-toed lions (usually an imperial symbol).
The village is well signposted in English. While the halls are the most dramatic structures, many ordinary houses have fantastic carvings as well, depicting popular Chinese symbols of luck, upward mobility and prosperity.
4Sleeping
Jīnhuá HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(www.jinhua-homestay.com; s/d incl 2 meals per person ¥128)
The only accommodations in Sìpíng are the 15 homes open to guests through this program (the small number keeps the village uncrowded). While Sìpíng has plenty of heritage structures, the homes are modern (with modern amenities); bathrooms are shared. Host families are keen to have guests at their table and to take them around the village.
6Drinking & Nightlife
While it may not have restaurants, Sìpíng does have a single cafe (irregular hours) with an espresso machine, in the centre of the village, with an outdoor terrace.
8Information
The nearest reliable international ATMs are in Jīnhuá.
8Getting There & Away
Bus 502 runs to/from Jīnhuá's south bus station to Tāngxī (汤溪; ¥5.50, one hour, frequent 6am to 6.30pm). In Tāngxī, pick up a pedicab (¥30) for the last 5km to Sìpíng. If you've booked a homestay, transportation from Tāngxī can be arranged.
Jīnhuá 金华
%0579 / Pop 4.73 million
As provincial Chinese cities go, Jīnhuá (金华) is an agreeable one with tree-lined streets and a central river flanked by parkland. It's a useful transport hub and a springboard for visiting the attractive villages of central Zhèjiāng.
1Sights
Jīnhuá Architecture ParkARCHITECTURE
(金华建筑艺术公园, Jīnhuá Jiànzhù Yìshù Gōngyuán )F
Jīnhuá Architecture Park is made up of 16 pavilions, designed by international and domestic architects, strung over 2km along the Yìwū River. It was conceived and curated by the artist Ai Wei Wei, to honour his father, poet and native son Ai Qing. Though the buildings – intended to be coffee shops, libraries, wi-fi–enabled work spaces and the like – are shuttered, it is still a fascinating sight, a modern meditation on memorial architecture.
The park, created in 2002, could have put the city on the international map: The star power of the names attached to the project (like Herzog & de Meuron), are a testimony to Ai's global renown as an artist. Yet he is also a controversial, outspoken figure: despite having once been named artistic director for the Běijīng Oympic stadium, he was arrested in 2011 on vague charges.
Jīnhuá Architecture Park is all but abandoned and, given southeast China's propensity for rain, the buildings are already succumbing to rust and mould – acquiring the patina of ruins, despite their contemporary nature. Local children play in the open-air structures; the rest can be appreciated only from the outside.
A taxi to the park costs around ¥25.
4Sleeping
World Trade HotelHOTEL$$$
(世贸大饭店, Shìmào Dàfàndiàn %0579 8258 8888; 737 Bayi Beijie, 八一北街737号 r from ¥760; aiW)
As befitting its transit hub status, Jīnhuá has many hotels. None of them are great, but this one (formerly a Best Western) is the best of the bunch: convenient, clean and well appointed. It's 2km from the train station, across from Bayi Park. Breakfast is included and discounts are common.
5Eating
Cheap noodle and hotpot joints can be found on Wuyi Lu, which runs diagonally southeast from the train station. Jīnhuá is famous for its dry-cured ham – so rich and salty it's used more to flavour dishes than to eat on its own – though unfortunately it's largely considered an export and is hard to come by in restaurants in town.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng cnr Bayi Beijie & Renmin Donglu, 八一北街人民东路的路口 h8.30am-5pm)
Money exchange and 24-hour ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Jīnhuá has excellent high-speed train connections, thanks to the new rail line between Hángzhōu and Chángshā, including:
AHángzhōu East ¥74, one hour, frequent
AHuángshān North ¥157, 2½ hours, one daily
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo ¥147, two hours, frequent
AWēnzhōu South ¥77, two hours, 10 daily
The West Bus Station (汽车西站; Qìchē Xīzhàn ), where buses depart for Zhūgě, is 500m west of the high-speed train station; the walk is well signposted. The South Bus Station (汽车南站; Qìchē Nánzhàn Bayi Nanjie; 八一南街 ), where buses depart for Tāngxī (for Sìpíng), is at the southern end of the city.
8Getting Around
Bus K11 (¥2) runs from the train station via the west bus station to the south bus station in 45 minutes.
Taxis start at ¥8. The 20-minute ride from the west to the south bus station costs around ¥40.
Pǔtuóshān 普陀山
%0580
Pǔtuóshān (普陀山) – the Zhōushān Archipelago’s most celebrated isle and one of China’s four sacred Buddhist mountains – is the abode of Guanyin, the eternally compassionate Goddess of Mercy. With pine groves, sandy beaches, grand temples and hidden grottoes, it is immensely scenic, but also very popular (despite the fact that it is only accessible by boat). Aim for a midweek visit outside of holiday periods.
Pŭtuóshān
1Sights
Transport
1Sights
Pǔtuóshān’s temples are all shrines for the merciful goddess Guanyin. Besides the three main temples, you will stumble upon nunneries and monasteries everywhere you turn, while decorative archways may suddenly emerge from the sea mist. Several sights, including Pǔjì Temple, and most amenities are clustered at the southern end of the island, which is easily walkable. If you want to stretch your legs, trails (often empty) line much of the coastline.
Pay the entrance fee (summer/winter ¥160/140) before you board the ferry and know that entry to some other sights is extra (usually ¥5).
Sights in Pǔtuóshān don't have addresses, but are well signposted in English.
Fǎyǔ TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(法雨禅寺, Fǎyǔ Chánsì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Fayu Lu, 法雨路 ¥5; h5.30am-6pm)
Colossal camphor trees and a huge gingko tree tower over this Chan (Zen) temple, where a vast glittering statue of Guanyin sits resplendently in the main hall, flanked by 18 luóhàn effigies. Each luóhàn has a name – for example, the Crossing the River luóhàn or the Long Eyebrows luóhàn – and worshippers pray to each in turn. In the hall behind stands a dextrous 1000-arm Guanyin.
Pǔjì TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(普济禅寺, Pǔjì Sì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ¥5; h5.30am-6pm)
Fronted by large ponds and overlooked by towering camphor trees and Luóhàn pines, this recently restored Chan (Zen) temple stands by the main square and dates to at least the 17th century. Beyond chubby Milefo sitting in a red, gold and green burnished cabinet in the Hall of Heavenly Kings, throngs of worshippers stand with flaming incense in front of the colossal main hall. Note the seated 1000-arm effigy of Guanyin in the Pǔmén Hall (普门殿; Pǔmén Diàn).
South Sea GuanyinSTATUE
(南海观音, Nánhǎi Guānyīn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; h6am-6pm)
The first thing you see as you approach Pǔtuóshān by boat is this 33m-high glittering statue of Guanyin, overlooking the waves at the southernmost tip of the island. It's the symbol of the island.
LuòjiāshānISLAND
(洛伽山 )
The very small island of Luòjiāshān, southeast of Pǔtuóshān, has its own temples and pagodas and makes for a fun expedition. The ferry (round trip including admission to Luòjiāshān ¥70, 25 minutes) departs at 7am, 8am, 9am and 1pm when conditions are good. You have to take a returning boat two hours later.
Guānyīn CaveCAVE
(观音洞, Guānyīn Dòng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Crouch with an arched back into this magnificent, smoky and mysterious old grotto with a low, head-scraping ceiling to witness its assembly of Guanyins carved from the rock face along with small effigies of the goddess in porcelain and stone, draped in cloth.
Duōbǎo PagodaPAGODA
(多宝塔, Duōbǎo Tǎ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 9am-4pm)F
Pǔtuóshān's oldest structure is this five-storey, 18m-high stone pagoda, with alcoves carved from the rock sheltering Buddhist statues. Built in 1335, its name literally means the 'Many Treasures Pagoda'.
One Hundred Step BeachBEACH
(百步沙, Bǎibùshā
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; h6am-6pm)
The most popular of Pǔtuóshān’s beaches has a pretty pagoda perched on terraced rock that always has a crowd. Swimming is allowed between May and August, until 6pm.
One Thousand Step BeachBEACH
(千步金沙, Qiānbù Jīnshā
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; h6am-6pm)
Pǔtuóshān’s largest beach stretches all along the northeast coast of the island – a long unspoilt stretch of blonde sand. Swimming is only permitted between May and August until 6pm, but any time of year it’s a lovely place to plonk down on the sand.
Buddhism MuseumMUSEUM
(佛教博物馆, Fójiào Bówùguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun)F
This small museum contains some of the Ming and Qing dynasty relics from Pǔtuóshān's temples, including effigies in bronze and jade and ritual implements, with some English signage. The entrance is not well marked, but it's behind Duōbǎo Pagoda.
Fànyīn CaveCAVE
(梵音洞, Fànyīn Dòng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; h5.30am-6pm)F
On the far eastern tip of the island, this cave contains a temple dedicated to Guanyin perched between two cliffs with a seagull’s view of the crashing waves below.
Cháoyáng CaveCAVE
(朝阳洞, Cháoyáng Dòng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
At the jutting point that marks the boundary between One Hundred Step Beach and One Thousand Step Beach, 'Sun-facing' Cave is a small, rarely visited grotto with altars inside to Guanyin. The sound of the roaring waves here is said to imitate the chanting of the Buddha; it's also known as the island's best sunrise spot.
Shàncái CaveCAVE
(善财洞, Shàncái Dòng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This cave is named after a boy attendant to Guanyin, often seen in Chinese Buddhist temples. He's also known as the 'child god of wealth' and you'll see visitors pulling out money for him to bless. There's a path leading here from Guānyīn Cave.
Fódǐng MountainMOUNTAIN
(佛顶山, Fódǐng Shān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥5)
A steep but beautifully shaded half-hour climb can be made up Fódǐng Mountain – Buddha’s Summit Peak – the highest point on the island. This is also where you will find Huìjì Temple. Watch devout pilgrims and Buddhist nuns stop every three steps to either bow or kneel in supplication. The less motivated take the cable car (索道; suǒdào, one-way/return ¥40/70, 6.30am-5pm).
The Xiāngyún Pavilion (香云亭; Xiāngyún Tíng) is a pleasant spot for a breather.
Huìjì TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(慧济禅寺, Huìjì Chánsì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ¥5; h5.30am-6.30pm)
Less grand than the temples at sea level, hilltop Huìjì draws pilgrims who make the climb up Fódǐng Mountain. The temple has a small vegetarian canteen (慧济禅寺素菜馆, Huìjì Chánsì Sùcàiguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; breakfast ¥5, lunch & dinner ¥10; h4.30-6.30am, 9am-noon, 3.30-5.30pm; v) for post-hike sustenance.
4Sleeping
Most hotels on Pǔtuóshān aim squarely at tour groups and holidaying Chinese, with prices to match. Room rates are generally discounted from Sunday to Thursday. Larger hotels have shuttle buses to and from the pier.
As you leave the arrivals building, local hotel touts flapping plastic photo placards will descend; these rooms are generally at the cheaper end in a nearby village. You can do your own legwork in the villages of Xīshān Xīncūn (西山新村), a short walk over the hill to the west from the ferry terminal, and Lóngwān Cūn (龙湾村), around a 15-minute walk east of the ferry terminal. Look for the characters ‘内有住宿’, which means rooms are available. All the rooms are very similar, going for around ¥150 on a weekday, and double at weekends; bargain if you can.
Chánzōng Rúshì Sea View HotelHOTEL$$
(禅宗如是大酒店, Chánzōng Rúshì Dàjiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0580 669 6898; 1 Meicen Lu; 没岑路1号 d from ¥600)
It's not the most scenic area of the island but you can't beat the location for convenience – just steps from the jetty. It's worth paying an extra 25% to upgrade to a seaview room; nonview rooms have windows but are dark. Chánzōng Rúshì is a step up from a basic guesthouse and good value for Pǔtuóshān. Discounts likely midweek.
Hǎibiān RénjiāGUESTHOUSE$$
(海边人家
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %130 5984 6649; 77, Bldg 34, Longwan Village, 龙湾村34幢77号 r from ¥300; W)
This very clean budget choice up the steps in Lóngwān Village and not far from Gold Beach in the southeast of the island has 10 rooms with showers (including a sweet attic room with a skylight) and a tip-top, clean ambience. There's no English spoken but the owners are hard-working and efficient. You're likely to get a discount during the week.
Landison Pǔtuóshān ResortHOTEL$$$
(雷迪森广场酒店, Léidísēn Guǎngchǎng Jiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0580 669 0666; www.landisonputuoshan.com; 115 Fayu Lu, 法雨路115号 tw with/without balcony ¥1588/2588; ais)
One of the island's fanciest places to stay, the Landison adds little touches of serenity like bowls of floating orchid petals and Buddhist statuary, though the whole place could use freshening up. Rooms, spacious and with plenty of natural light, surround a courtyard with an 800-year-old camphor tree; some have balconies. Weekday discounts bring rooms down to ¥1000, plus a 15% service charge.
5Eating
Pǔtuóshān dining is largely seafood and hotel restaurants and therefore expensive. Less expensive are the makeshift restaurants set up by villagers in hillside Lóngwān Cūn (龙湾村); when the weather's good look for plastic tables and chairs. You can also get noodles (from ¥20) on Meicen Lu, just east of the ferry port. The best places to eat are the vegetarian canteens inside the temples; both Pǔjì and Huìjì have them.
ZǎozǐshùVEGETARIAN$$
(枣子树
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 84-86 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路84-6号 dishes ¥28-108; h10.30am-9.30pm; v)
Far more upscale (and with prices to match) than a typical temple canteen, Zǎozǐshù serves up delicacies like stir-fried tea mushrooms (干煸茶菇; gānbiān chágū) and stewed papaya with snow lotus seed (瓜田雪莲; guātián xuělián). It's part of the Meicen Restaurants complex; look for the English sign inside that says 'vegetarian life style'.
8Information
Wi-fi is easy to come by; most accommodations have it.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 85-7 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路85-7号 h8am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm)
Currency exchange and a 24-hour ATM that accepts international cards. There are several different banks here, on what is dubbed ‘Financial Street’.
China MobileTELEPHONE
(中国移动, Zhōngguó Yídòng
GOOGLE MAP
; 85-3 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路85-3号 h8am-5pm)
For mobile phone SIM cards.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng
GOOGLE MAP
; 124 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路124号 h8am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter)
Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 85-15 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路 h8-11am & 2-5pm)
Forex currency exchange.
Left Luggage OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(行李寄存, Xínglǐ Jìcúnchù
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; per day ¥5-10; h6.45am-4.15pm)
At the ferry terminal and also at the Zhōushān Pǔtuó Tourist Destination Service Centre, if you want to leave large luggage behind.
Tourist Service CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(旅游咨询中心, Lǚyóu Zīxún Zhōngxīn
GOOGLE MAP
; %0580 319 1919; h8.30am-4.30pm)
8Getting There & Away
Getting to Pǔtuóshān looks daunting as it requires multiple forms of transportation (most visitors do it on a package tour). Even coming from Níngbō, the nearest major hub, the journey takes a minimum of three hours. However, transfers are seamless and the construction of bridges lashing the principle islands of the Zhōushān archipelago to the mainland means the journey is largely made by bus (unless you choose otherwise).
First you need to get to Pǔtuó Central bus station (普陀中心站; Pǔtuó zhōngxīnzhàn), also called Shěnjiāmén (沈家门), on the island of Zhōushān. Buses depart from:
AHángzhōu south ¥65, four hours, hourly
ANíngbō south ¥52, 90 minutes, frequent from 5.55am
AShànghǎi south ¥130 to ¥220, five hours, every 40 minutes
From Pǔtuó Central you'll be immediately funnelled onto a minibus (¥10) that will take you the last 10 minutes to the dockside Zhōushān Pǔtuó Tourist Destination Service Center (舟山旅游目的地服务中心; Zhōushān Lǚyóu Mùdìdì Fúwù Zhōngxīn) on Zhūjiājiān (朱家尖), where you get your ferry ticket (¥25) and admission ticket to the island. The crossing from here takes just 10 minutes. Ferries depart frequently between 6.30am and 5.30pm, after which there half-hourly departures until 8.30pm and a last boat at 9.50pm.
The other option is the slow overnight ferry direct from Shànghǎi, which takes 12 hours. From Shànghǎi, the boat leaves at 7.30pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, reaching Pǔtuóshān at around 8am. In the other direction, it leaves on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 4pm (winter) or 5pm (summer), reaching Shànghǎi at around 6am. Tickets cost anywhere from ¥139 (4th class) to ¥499 (special class); it’s easy to upgrade (bǔpiào) once you’re on-board. In Pǔtuóshān boats depart from the main ferry terminal (普陀山客运码头; Pǔtuóshān Kèyùn Mǎtou
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0580 609 1121); in Shànghǎi, from Wusong Passenger Transportation Centre, in the north of the city. On Pǔtuóshān, ferry tickets can be bought at the ticket office at the jetty.
The nearest airport is at Zhōushān (Pǔtuóshān) on the neighbouring island of Zhūjiājiān (朱家尖); get the ferry from the dock.
8Getting Around
Minibuses zip from the passenger ferry terminal to various points around the island, including Pǔjì Temple (¥5), One Thousand Step Beach (¥8), Fǎyǔ Temple (¥10) and the cable car station (¥10), leaving every 20 minutes or when full between 7am and 4.30pm. There are more bus stations at Pǔjì Temple, Fǎyǔ Temple and other spots around the island serving the same and other destinations. If you're heading to Pǔjì Temple and the sights in the south of the island, walking is fine.
Níngbō 宁波
%0574 / Pop 5.77 million
Níngbō (宁波), an ancient harbour city, has been an important trading port for millennia, and today is one of China's busiest. One of the five ports opened during the Treaty of Nanjing in 1842, it has a former foreign concession, Lǎo Wàitān (老外滩), now a vibrant, pedestrian-only entertainment district along the Yǒng River. For travellers, Níngbō is primarily a waypoint on the journey to Pǔtuóshān.
4Sleeping
Should you find yourself overnighting in Níngbō, the city's main east–west thoroughfare Zhongshan Lu (中山路) is lined with midrange business hotels, including many chains, such as 7 Days Inn. There are more hotels, as well as some more upscale options (including international chains), in Lǎo Wàitān.
Nányuàn Wénchāng Business HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(南苑文昌商务酒店, Nányuàn Wénchāng Shāngwù Jiǔdiàn %0574 5586 3999; 2 Wenchang Lu, 文昌路2号 s/d ¥298/398; naW)
With it's convenient location just off Zhongshan Lu, 2km either way from the train station or Lǎo Wàitān, and just seconds from subway line 1, Nányuàn Wénchāng is an easy choice. Rooms are spacious, clean and modern and the savvy manager speaks decent English. Wi-fi is fast and there's a no-smoking floor, too.
5Eating
Tiānyī Guǎngchǎng (天一广场), Níngbō's spiderweb-shaped central square is full of restaurants offering an international spread of cuisines, including plenty of wallet-friendly fast-food joints and a supermarket.
GāngyāgǒuDUMPLINGS$
(缸鸭狗 68 Shuijing Jie, 水晶街68号, Tiānyī Guǎngchǎng, 天一广场 dishes ¥8-48; h10.30am-9.30pm)
Gāngyāgǒu has been making Níngbō's signature dumplings (宁波汤圆; Níngbō tāngyuán; six for ¥10), silky boiled rice cakes stuffed with sugar-spiked ground sesame, since 1926. They come in more inventive flavours too, such as rose (玫瑰; méiguī) and pumpkin (南瓜; nánguā). You can make a meal out of it by ordering some xiǎolóngbāo (小笼包; soup dumplings; ¥19 to ¥36). There's a picture menu.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng Waima Lu, 外马路 h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
Currency exchange and a 24-hour ATM in Lǎo Wàitān.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Buses to Pǔtuó central bus station (普陀中心站; Pǔtuó zhōngxīnzhàn), also known as Shěnjiāmén (沈家门), from where you can travel onward to Pǔtuóshān, leave frequently from Níngbō's south bus station (汽车南站; Qìchē Nánzhàn 408 Jiaoshuiqiao Lu; 角水桥路408号 ).
Buses also run frequently between the south bus station and Hángzhōu (¥65 to ¥75, two hours).
Train
Níngbō is well connected to China's high-speed rail network. Destinations include:
AHángzhōu East ¥71, one hour, frequent
AJīnhuá ¥145, two hours, seven daily
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo ¥97 to ¥144, two hours, frequent
8Getting Around
Níngbō has just one train station for high-speed and ordinary trains, 3km south of downtown. The south bus station is just across the plaza from the train station's south exit.
Subway line 1 runs east–west along Zhongshan Lu, stopping at Tiānyī Guǎngchǎng; rides cost ¥2 to ¥3. Taxis start at ¥11.
Shàoxīng 绍兴
%0557 / Pop 2.16 million
Sprawling, ancient Shàoxīng (绍兴), built on a network of canals, is among the oldest cities in the province. Unlike the more touristy water towns, which have concentrated historic areas, Shàoxīng is a contemporary city marbled with old, where modern housing blocks are shot through with rivulets and white-washed homes. The city is also the birthplace of many influential and colourful figures, including the writer Lu Xun.
1Sights
Many of Shàoxīng's sights are related to Lu Xun (1881–1936), China’s first great modern novelist, who lived here until he went abroad to study. (He later returned to China, but was forced to hide out in Shànghǎi’s French Concession when the Kuomintang decided his books were too dangerous). These are clustered on the cobblestone pedestrian area known as Lǔxùn Native Place (鲁迅故里; Lǔxùn Gùlǐ Luxun Zhonglu; 鲁迅中路 h8.30am-5pm). The most interesting of the bunch is the Sānwèi Shūwū (三味书屋), the one-room schoolhouse where the author studied as a boy. There are also two residences through which you can stroll. Entry is free, though you'll need to show your passport.
From here you can walk north along the quays, some of which are shaded with wooden overhangs, past quiet slices of residential life. The most noteworthy among the numerous stone bridges (some ancient and many still in use) you'll pass is Bāzǐ Bridge (八子乔; Bāzi Qiáo ), shrouded in ivy and shaped like the character for lucky number eight (八; bā). It dates to the first years of the 13th century.
Two kilometres west of Bāzǐ Bridge is Cāngqiáo Street (仓桥直街; Cāngqiáo Zhíjiē ), a restored stretch of old shophouses, several of which now house cafes.
4Sleeping
Lǔxùn Native Place Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(老台门鲁迅故里国际青年旅舍, Lǎotáimén Lǔxùn Gùlǐ Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0575 8508 0288; www.yhachina.com/ls.php?id=260; 558 Xinjian Nanlu, 新建南路558号 dm ¥55, d ¥198-398; aiW)
Filling the meandering corridors of a centuries-old courtyard house, this hostel is right in line with the city's other historic sites. The renovations are a bit patchwork but the rooms are clean and comfortable. There's also a restaurant and lounge where you can unwind with some Shàoxīng wine. Staff speak some English and are friendly.
The hostel is just south of Lǔxùn Native Place, on a small road running perpendicular from the tourist strip. It's also a five-minute walk from the BRT station on Zhongxing Zhonglu (中兴中路).
5Eating
Gāo Lǎotài Nǎiyóu XiǎopānDESSERTS$
(高老太奶油小攀 608 Xinjian Nanlu, 新建南路608号 tart ¥3; h8.30am-9pm)
Shàoxīng's custard tarts are different from the ones you find in Shànghǎi or Macau, with thin crisp shells, the lightest of custard and wispy caps of meringue. Get 'em to go from this tiny stand.
oXiánhēng JiǔdiànZHEJIANG$$
(咸亨酒店 %0557 8512 7179; 179 Luxun Zhonglu, 鲁迅中路179号 dishes ¥20-55; h10.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm)
Xiánhēng Jiǔdiàn is a fantastic, if touristy, place to sample local food and drink. Dishes include dried broad beans stewed in fennel water (茴香豆; huíxiāng dòu) and 'drunk' river crab (醉蟹; zuì xiè) that has been pickled and cooked with wine vinasse, the residue from the winemaking process. Order Shàoxīng wine from the counter out front.
You'll need to first purchase a prepaid card (minimum ¥100), which you'll use to purchase dishes inside. The remaining balance and deposit will be returned to you when you return the card. The restaurant is easily spotted by its outdoor seating, just west of Lǔxùn Native Place.
8Getting There & Around
Frequent high-speed trains run between Hángzhōu East and Shàoxīng North (¥20 to ¥63, 20 minutes); however, the high-speed train station is far north of the city, either 30 minutes in a taxi (¥50) or an hour on the BRT1 express bus (¥4). There are seven K trains daily between 7am and 2.12pm from either Hángzhōu or Hángzhōu East that run to Shàoxīng train station (¥11 to ¥13, one hour), which is downtown.
Frequent buses also run from Hángzhōu to Shàoxīng Passenger Transport Centre (¥24 to ¥27, one hour), although the bus station is also north of the city centre.
Shàoxīng taxis start at ¥7.