Hénán
Hénán
Pop 94 million
Why Go?
Affluent Chinese may roll their eyes at the mention of impoverished and land-locked Hénán (河南), but the province’s heritage takes us back to the earliest days of Chinese antiquity. Ancient capitals rose and fell in Hénán’s north, where the capricious Yellow River (Huáng Hé) nourished the flowering of a great civilisation.
Hénán is home to China’s oldest surviving Buddhist temple and one of the country’s most astonishing collections of Buddhist carvings, the Lóngmén Grottoes. There is also the Shàolín Temple, that legendary institution where the martial way and Buddhism found an unlikely but powerful alliance. Hénán’s inability to catch up with the rest of the land perhaps helps to explain why the unusual village of Nánjiēcūn still sees a future in Maoist collectivism. Hénán is also home to the excellent walled town of Kaīfēng and the 1000-year-old craft of woodblock printing in Zhūxiān.
When to Go
AApr Luòyáng is a blaze of floral colour during the peony festival.
AJun Trips to cool Guōliàngcūn up in the Mountains of the Ten Thousand Immortals.
ASep & Oct Catch the lovely and fleeting north China autumn.
Hénán Highlights
1 Shàolín Temple Fathoming the martial mysteries of Shàolín boxing and hiking the surrounding peaks.
2 Lóngmén Grottoes Admiring the artistry of 1500-year-old carved Bodhisattvas.
3 Guōliàngcūn Discovering the unreal scenery of the Mountains of the Ten Thousand Immortals from the perch of a cliff-top village.
4 Kāifēng Taking a trip back in time to the former capital of the Northern Song dynasty.
5 White Horse Temple Exploring the vast complex of China’s oldest Buddhist shrine, found outside Luòyáng.
6 Zhūxiān Getting acquainted with the ancient craft of Chinese woodblock printing.
7 Nánjiēcūn Rediscovering communism with Chinese characteristics.
History
It is believed that the first Shang capital, perhaps dating back 3800 years, was at Yǎnshī, west of modern-day Zhèngzhōu. Around the mid-14th century BC, the capital is thought to have moved to Zhèngzhōu, where its ancient city walls remain visible.
Hénán again occupied centre stage during the Song dynasty (AD 960–1279), but political power deserted it when the government fled south from its capital at Kāifēng following the 12th-century Jurchen invasion.
Modern Hénán has been poor and strife-prone. In 1975 Hénán’s Bǎnqiáo Dam collapsed after massive rainfall, leading to a string of other dam failures that caused the deaths of 230,000 people. In the 1990s a scandal involving the sale of HIV-tainted blood led to a high incidence of AIDS in several Hénán villages.
8Getting There & Around
Hénán is that rarity in China: a province in which travellers can get in, out and around with ease. Zhèngzhōu is the main regional rail hub; high-speed G-class and D-class trains zip between Zhèngzhōu, Luòyáng and, to a lesser extent, Kāifēng.
Luòyáng has a small airport, but Zhèngzhōu is the main hub for flying to/from Hénán.
Zhèngzhōu 郑州
%0371 / Pop 6.4 million
The provincial Hénán capital of Zhèngzhōu (郑州) is a rapidly modernising, smog-filled metropolis with few relics from its ancient past (due to Japanese bombing in WWII). Zhèngzhōu can be largely zipped through, serving as a major transport hub and access point for the Shàolín Temple and the left-field Maoist collective of Nánjiēcūn.
Zhèngzhōu
1Sights
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
Despite a history reaching back to the earliest chapters of Chinese history, the city now has few sights of interest to travellers.
Chénghuáng TempleTAOIST TEMPLE
(城隍庙, Chénghuáng Miào
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Shangcheng Lu, 商城路 
h9am-6pm)
F
The 600-year-old City God temple bustles with worshippers who leave its trees festooned with red ribbons and its entrances swirling with incense smoke. Take bus 2 from the train station.
Hénán MuseumMUSEUM
(河南博物院, Hénán Bówùyuàn
GOOGLE MAP
; http://english.chnmus.net; 8 Nongye Lu, 农业路8号 h9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun, shorter hours rest of year)F
Closed for renovations (estimated to last until 2018), only temporary exhibits in a side building are currently on display. An audio guide (¥20, deposit ¥200) in English is available. Take your passport as ID for admission. The museum is around 2km north of Jinshui Lu; a taxi there will cost about ¥20. (A huge swath of Nongye Lu was also closed for total renovation during research; as a result no buses were running here.)
Shang City WallsRUINS
(商代城墙遗址, Shāngdài Chéngqiáng Yízhǐ
GOOGLE MAP
)F
Zhèngzhōu's eastern outskirts are marked by long, high mounds of earth, the remains of the old city walls. You can climb up to explore.
4Sleeping
At the time of research, only international chains and a select few domestic hotels were accepting foreigners.
Jǐnjiāng InnMOTEL$$
(锦江之星, Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 6693 2000; 77 Erma Lu, 二马路77号 d from ¥200; 
a
W)
This modern chain has crisp, well-looked-after rooms (work desks, flat-screen TVs) in a convenient location near the train station. The cheapest rooms have no windows; staff will likely upgrade you to the mid-level rooms. It is currently the city's only midrange hotel accepting foreigners.
Hilton ZhèngzhōuHOTEL$$$
(希尔顿酒店, Xīěrdùn Jiǔdiàn
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 8996 0888; www3.hilton.com; 288 Jinshui Lu, 金水路288号 d from ¥688; 
n
iW
s; 
mMinhang Rd)
The Hilton combines stylish elegance with a highly exacting level of service and a tempting range of five-star amenities and dining choices in a tower on Jinshui Lu. Rooms are contemporary, invitingly spacious and fully equipped. It's close to the city's Central Business District.
SofitelHOTEL$$$
(索菲特国际饭店, Suǒfēitè Guójì Fàndiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 6595 0088; www.sofitel.com; 289 Chengdong Lu, 城东路289号 d from ¥600; naiWs; mYanzhuang)
Fresh off a multi-year renovation in 2016, rooms at the five-star Sofitel are excellent. Muted gold and brown tones provide a soothing counterpoint to Zhèngzhōu's chaotic street life, and plusher rooms are equipped with plenty of modern conveniences, including Nespresso machines and swivel TVs. Note that the entrance is off Jinshui Lu.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
Prices given are for a double room.
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
Prices given are for a meal for one.
$ less than ¥35
$$ ¥35–¥100
$$$ more than ¥100
5Eating
A short walk north of the train station is the busy February 7 Sq (二七广场; Eŕqī Guángchǎng), also called Eŕqī Sq, with nearby shops, restaurants and a night market. Look out for the large white pagoda.
Hé JìHENAN$
(合记
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 3 Renmin Lu, 人民路3号 noodles ¥14-25; h10.30am-10pm; mRenmin Rd)
This Zhèngzhōu stalwart has racked up numerous awards over the years, and judging by the raucous crowds inside, it hasn't lost its touch. There's only one thing on the menu – noodle soup in a nourishing mutton broth (烩面; huìmiàn). Order at the window: basic (普通; pǔtõng) or deluxe (特优; tèyōu), with a bit more meat.
Add coriander and chilli to taste, but eat the pickled garlic on the side.
Hénán ShífǔHENAN$$
(河南食府
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 6622 2108; 25 Renmin Lu, 人民路25号 dishes ¥22-98; h10am-2pm & 5-9.30pm; mRenmin Rd)
Tucked away in a courtyard off Renmin Lu, this well-known restaurant’s photo menu is full of local specialities, such as tofu potstickers (锅贴豆腐; guōtiē dòufu) or Hakka beef (客家牛肉粒; Kèjiā niúròu lì), which is cleverly encased in a circular wall of rice. Flip to the end of the menu for some unusual steamed buns and noodle dishes.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Jingliu Lu and Jingqi Lu off Jinshui Rd are home to several welcoming bars.
Target PubPUB
(目标酒吧, Mùbiāo Jiǔbā
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 6590 5384; 10 Jingliu Lu, 经六路10号 h5pm-3am)
A seasoned portrait of flags, old banknotes, rattan chairs and half a car pinned to the ceiling, Target hits the bullseye with excellent music, an outstanding selection of spirits, offbeat cocktails and a laid-back vibe.
8Information
Internet cafes (网吧; wǎngbā; per hour ¥3 to ¥5) are clustered near the train station.
Air Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE
(航空售票, Hángkōng Shòupiaò
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 6677 7111)
Sells flight tickets in the airport bus office, next to the Zhèngzhōu Hotel.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng
GOOGLE MAP
; 8 Jinshui Lu, 金水路8号 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
North of the Sofitel, on Jinshui Lu.
City Number One HospitalHOSPITAL
(市一院, Shì Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; Dong Dajie, 东大街 )
West of the Confucius Temple.
Civil Aviation Administration of ChinaTICKET OFFICE
(CAAC, 中国民航, Zhōngguó Mínháng %0371 6599 1111; 3 Jinshui Lu, at Dongmin Lu; 金水路3号 )
East of the city centre, the CAAC sells flight tickets.
Hénán PharmacyPHARMACY
(河南大药房, Hénán Dàyàofáng
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 6623 4256; 19 Renmin Lu, 人民路19号 h24hr)
Industrial & Commercial BankBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng
GOOGLE MAP
; Renmin Lu, 人民路 mRenmin Rd)
Has a 24-hour ATM.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局出入境管理处, Gōng’ānjú Chūrùjìng Guǎnlǐchù %0371 6962 5990; 66 Huanghe Nanlu, 黄河南路66号 h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
For visa extensions; in the north of town.
Train Ticket Booking OfficeTICKET OFFICE
(火车预售票处, Huǒchē Yùshòupiàochù
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 6835 6666; cnr Zhengxing Jie & Fushou Jie, 正兴街与福寿街路口 h8am-8pm)
8Getting There & Away
Air
Zhèngzhōu Airport is located 37km southeast of town. The ticket office is in the airport bus office, next to the Zhèngzhōu Hotel.
Flights include the following:
ABěijīng ¥840, two daily
AGuǎngzhōu ¥900, nine daily
AGuìlín ¥925, two daily
AHong Kong ¥1021, two daily
AShànghǎi ¥400, frequent service
Bus
The long-distance bus station (郑州长途汽车站; Zhèngzhōu chángtú qìchēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is opposite the train station.
ADēngfēng ¥28, 1¾ hours, half-hourly
AKaīfēng ¥19, two hours, half-hourly
ALínyǐng ¥40, 2¼ hours, hourly
ALuòyáng ¥57, two hours, half-hourly
AShàolín Temple ¥29, two hours, six daily (7am to 11am)
AXīnxiāng ¥25, two hours, six daily (6am to 6.30pm)
Train
Zhèngzhōu is a major rail hub located at the intersection of several major lines. There are two principal stations, both of which have similar connections: the main train station (火车站; huǒchē zhàn) and the high-speed east train station (郑州东站; Zhèngzhōu dōngzhàn). Both stations are on metro line 1.
For a ¥5 commission, skip waiting in line and get tickets at the advance booking office.
ABěijīng West G train ¥315, 2½ to four hours, frequent service
AGuǎngzhōu South G train ¥653, six hours, frequent service
AKāifēng C/D train ¥19, 30 minutes, frequent service
ALuòyáng Lóngmén G train ¥60, 40 minutes, frequent service
ANánjīng South D train ¥204, 5½ hours, five daily
AShànghǎi D train ¥237, seven hours, four daily
AXī’ān North G train ¥229, 2½ hours, frequent service
8Getting Around
The airport bus (飞机巴士, fēijī bāshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (¥20, 90 minutes, half-hourly from 6.30am to 8.30pm) leaves from the sidewalk next to the Zhèngzhōu Hotel (郑州大酒店; Zhèngzhōu Dàjiǔdiàn). A taxi costs around ¥100 and takes 50 minutes.
Bus 26 travels from the train station past 7 February Sq, along Renmin Lu and Jinshui Lu to the CAAC office. Local buses cost ¥1 to ¥2.
The east–west Line 1 of the metro (tickets from ¥2) runs through the train station, up Renmin Lu and Jinshui Lu to the Central Business District (CBD), eventually passing the east train station. Note that the main train station metro stop only exits on the west side and is not conveniently accessed from the front of the train station.
The north–south Line 2 following Zijingshan Lu is under construction but should be completed by 2017, while Lines 3 and 5 will only open in 2018 at the very earliest.
Taxi fares start at ¥8 (¥10 at night).
Nánjiēcūn 南街村
%0395 / Pop 3180
Nánjiēcūn (南街村) is China’s very last Maoist collective (gōngshè), and a visit here is a surreal trip back in time – a journey to the puritanical and revolutionary China of the 1950s, when Chairman Mao was becoming a supreme being, money was yesterday’s scene and the menace of karaoke had yet to be prophesied by even the most paranoid party faithful.
The first inkling you have arrived in an entirely different world comes from the roads: relatively clean, tree-lined streets run in straight lines with a kind of austere socialist beauty (or, perhaps, the quiet menace of an autocratic sci-fi dystopia), past noodle factories, schools, and rows of identikit blocks of workers’ flats emblazoned with vermilion communist slogans. There are no advertising billboards, but beatific portraits of Chairman Mao gaze down on all.
1Sights
To find your way from the town of Línyǐng into the collective, head down the main drag, Yingsong Dadao (颍松大道), to the rainbow-arch-adorned East Is Red Square. A short stroll to the left brings you to Cháoyáng Gate Square.
East Is Red SquareSQUARE
(东方红广场, Dōngfānghóng Guǎngchǎng )
In this square, guards maintain a 24-hour vigil at the foot of a statue of Chairman Mao, and portraits of Marx, Engels, Stalin and Lenin (the original ‘Gang of Four’) rise up on all four sides. Behind the ensemble, a tri-coloured rainbow proclaims 'Mao Zedong thought will shine forever'. The square is deluged in shrill propaganda broadcast from speakers in true 1950s style, kicking off at 6.15am daily.
Cháoyáng Gate SquareSQUARE
(朝阳门广场, Cháoyángmén Guǎngchǎng )
Not far from East is Red Square, this square is known primarily for the rebuilt, traditional architecture of Cháoyáng Gate (朝阳门; Cháoyáng Mén).
8Information
Tourist Service CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(游客服务中心, Yóukè Fúwù Zhōngxīn Qianjin Beilu, 前进北路 h7.30am-5.30pm)
You can safely avoid the Tourist Service Centre near the entrance (off the west end of Yingsong Dadao), as they’ll ask you to buy an admission ticket (¥80) that you don't actually need to visit Nánjiēcūn. But if you do take up their offer, it comes with a Chinese-speaking guide and a jaunt around town on an electric cart.
8Getting There & Away
From Zhèngzhōu bus station, buses (¥40, 2¼ hours) run south every hour between 6.20am and 6.20pm to the bus station at Línyǐng (临颍), from where it’s a ¥5 sānlúnchē (pedicab) journey south to Nánjiēcūn.
Sōng Shān & Dēngfēng 嵩山、登封
%0371 / Pop 650,000
In Taoism, Sōng Shān (嵩山) is considered the central mountain (中岳; zhōngyuè) of the five sacred peaks, symbolising earth (土; tǔ) among the five elements and occupying the axis directly beneath heaven. Despite this Taoist persuasion, the mountains are also home to one of China’s most famous and legendary Zen (禅; Chán) Buddhist temples: the inimitable Shàolín Temple. Two main mountains crumple the area, the 1494m-high Tàishì Shān (太室山) and the 1512m-high Shàoshì Shān (少室山) whose peaks compose Sōng Shān about 80km west of Zhèngzhōu.
At the foot of Tàishì Shān, 12km southeast of the Shàolín Temple and 74km from Zhèngzhōu, sits the squat little town of Dēngfēng (登封). Tatty in parts, travellers use it as a base for trips to surrounding sights or exploratory treks into the hills.
1Sights
In Dēngfēng, Zhongyue Dajie (中岳大街) is the main east–west street; Shaolin Dadao (少林大道) runs parallel to the south.
Shàolín TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(少林寺, Shàolín Sì %0371 6370 2503; ¥100; h6.30am-5.30pm Mar-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)
The largely rebuilt Shàolín Temple is a commercialised victim of its own incredible success. A frequent target of war, the ancestral home of wǔshù was last torched in 1928, and the surviving halls – many of recent construction – are today assailed by relentless waves of selfie-shooting tour groups. The temple’s claim to fame, its dazzling gōngfū (kung fu) based on the movements of animals, insects and sometimes mythological figures, guarantees that martial arts clubs around the world make incessant pilgrimages.
A satisfying visit to the Shàolín Temple requires, rather than bestows, a Zen mentality (to handle the visiting hordes and looped recordings broadcast from competing loudspeakers). But if you explore away from the main areas, you could spend an entire day or two visiting smaller temples, climbing the surrounding peaks and eking out crumbs of solitude.
Coming through the main entrance, you’ll pass several wǔshù schools. On the right, about 500m in, is the Wǔshù Training Centre, with entertaining shows featuring novices tumbling around and breaking sticks and metal bars over their heads – an integral part of the Shàolín experience.
The main temple itself is another 600m along. Many buildings, such as the main Dàxióng Hall (大雄宝殿, Dàxióng Bǎodiàn; reconstructed in 1985) burned to the ground in 1928. Although the temple seems to have been founded in approximately the year 500 (accounts vary), some halls only date back as far as 2004. Among the oldest structures at the temple are the decorative arches and stone lions, both outside the main gate.
At the rear, the West Facing Hall (西方圣人殿; Xīfāng Shēngrén Diàn) has depressions in the floor, famously (and apocryphally) the result of generations of monks practising their stance work, and huge colour frescoes. Always be on the lookout for the ubiquitous Damo (Bodhidharma), whose bearded Indian visage gazes sagaciously from stelae or peeks out from temple halls.
Across from the temple entrance, the Arhat Hall within the Shífāng Chányuàn (十方禅院) contains legions of crudely fashioned luóhàn (monks who have achieved enlightenment and passed to nirvana at death). Past the main temple on the right, the Pagoda Forest (少林塔林; Shàolín Tǎlín), a cemetery of 248 brick pagodas, which includes the ashes of eminent monks, is well worth visiting.
Further along, past the Pagoda Forest, paths lead up Wǔrǔ Peak (五乳峰; Wǔrǔ Fēng). Flee the tourist din by heading towards the peak to see the cave (达摩洞, Dámó Dòng) where Damo (Bodhidharma) meditated for nine years; it’s 4km uphill. From the base, you may spot the peak and the cave, marked by a large Bodhisattva figure. En route to the cave, detour to the Chūzǔ Temple (初祖庵; Chūzǔ Ān), a quiet and battered counterpoint to the main temple. Its main structure is the oldest wooden one in the province (c 1125).
At 1512m above sea level and reachable on the Sōngyáng Cableway (嵩阳索道; Sōngyáng Suǒdào; return ticket ¥50), Shàoshì Shān (少室山) is the area’s tallest summit. The area beyond the cable car is home to the peak, and to Eŕzǔ Nunnery (二祖庵; Eŕzǔ Ān; ¥2) with four wells where you can sample its various tasting waters (sour, sweet, peppery and bitter).
Perhaps the most famous hike, however, is to neighbouring Sānhuángzhài (三皇寨), which takes about six hours return and covers 9km one-way (and 7398 steps!). The path goes past precipitous cliffs along a roller coaster of a route that often hugs the striated rock face to the 782-step Rope Bridge (连天吊桥; Lián Tiān Diào Qiáo). The scenery is superb.
Consider bypassing the initial 3km with the Shàolín Cableway (少林索道; Shàolín Suǒdào; one-way/return ¥50/80), which conveys you effortlessly to the start of the most dramatic section. No matter how you do this hike, start early and be prepared for some noise – it's very popular and the echoes are a big draw. Once you get to the first suspension bridge (one hour), most people turn around and the crowds thin out considerably.
To do this hike one-way – probably the most satisfying option – you can start from the end (catch a cab to Sānhuángzhài from Dēngfēng; aim for ¥30) and walk towards Shàolín. You can do it the other way too, but you're at the mercy of the drivers (assuming there are any) when you finish. Note that the bridge may be closed at times for repair or during inclement weather. Food is plentiful along the part closest to Shàolín.
To reach the Shàolín Temple, take a bus (15 minutes) from Dēngfēng’s west bus station (¥3.50) or main station (¥5). A taxi to the temple from Dēngfēng will cost ¥30 (unofficial fare, no meter). Alternatively, take a minibus from either Luòyáng (¥19, 1½ hours) or Zhèngzhōu (¥29, two hours).
From the ticket office, it's then a 20-minute walk to the actual temple (passing the Wǔshù Training Centre on the way); electric carts (one-way/return ¥15/25, 7.30am to 6pm) run from the ticket office to the main temple entrance and beyond.
Note that tickets to the scenic area (including all hikes) are valid for 10 days, except for the temple itself, which can only be visited once on the date of purchase.
Mt TàishìMOUNTAIN
(太室山, Tàishì Shān ¥50; h6.30am-5.30pm)
Arguably the best hike in the area, Mt Tàishì serves as a much quieter counterpoint to Shàolín Temple. It's not for slackers, however; like all Chinese mountains, the steps go straight up, and these ascend a leg-busting 1000m in altitude before reaching Jùnjí Peak (1492m). Along the way you'll pass some fantastical landscapes and a host of ravaged temples, the most interesting being Lǎojūn Cave, where according to one legend Laotzu lived for six years while writing the Tao Te Ching.
If you want to make a day of it, it's possible to do a loop, descending past Fǎwáng Temple (法王寺; Fǎwáng Sì) and then Sōngyuè Pagoda (嵩岳塔; Sōngyuè Tǎ), built in the year 509, on the return trip. Ask for directions at Tiānyé Temple. If you don't do the loop, figure on spending four to six hours hiking (return).
The entrance is located at Sōngyáng Academy; take bus 6 or 2 to get here. Don't forget to pick up a map (地图; dìtú) with your ticket.
Zhōngyuè TempleTAOIST TEMPLE
(中岳庙, Zhōngyuè Miào Shaolin Dadao, 少林大道 ¥30; h8am-5pm)
A few kilometres east of Dēngfēng, the ancient and hoary Zhōngyuè Miào is a colossal active Taoist monastery complex that originally dates back to the 2nd century BC. The complex – embedded in a mountainous background, its monks garbed in traditional dress and sporting topknots – is less visited and exudes a more palpable air of reverence than its Buddhist sibling, the Shàolín Temple.
Sōngyáng AcademyHISTORIC BUILDING
(嵩阳书院, Sōngyáng Shūyuàn ¥30; h7.30am-5.30pm)
At the foot of Tàishì Shān sits one of China’s oldest academies, the lush and well-tended Sōngyáng Academy, a building complex which dates to 484 and rises up the hill on a series of terraces. In the courtyard are two cypress trees believed to be around 4500 years old – and they’re still alive.
Both bus 2 and bus 6 (¥1) run to the Sōngyáng Academy.
BODHIDHARMA AND HIS SOLE SHOE
Called Damo (达摩) by the Chinese, Bodhidharma was a 5th-century Indian monk who travelled to the Shàolín Temple, bringing Chán (禅; Zen) Buddhism to China in the process. The monk is also traditionally revered for establishing the breathing and meditation exercises that lay the foundations of Shàolín Boxing. Bodhidharma’s bearded, heavy-browed and serious expression can be seen in temples across China, especially Chán temples. Accomplishments and legends swarm around his name: he is said to have sat in a cave silently staring at a wall for nine years.
Damo is also often depicted carrying a shoe on a stick. Folklore attests that he was spotted wandering in the Pamir Mountains holding a single shoe. When the news reached the Shàolín Temple, it caused consternation as Bodhidharma had previously passed away and was buried nearby. His grave was exhumed and discovered to contain nothing but a solitary shoe.
4Sleeping & Eating
Luxury sleeping options are nonexistent – if you'd prefer an international hotel with English-speaking staff and nonsmoking rooms, stay in Zhèngzhōu and visit Shàolín as a day trip.
Shàolín Temple has scores of stands in every conceivable location selling instant noodles, snacks and water. Hikers can also grab bags of peanuts.
In Dēngfēng, the local speciality is thickly cut handmade soup noodles (烩面; huì miàn). Head to the intersection of Aimin Lu (爱民路) and Songshan Lu (嵩山路) for a good choice of restaurants.
Kungfu HostelHOSTEL$
(功夫客栈, Gōngfù Kèzhàn %0371 6274 8889; 20 Dujia Village, Shàolín Temple Grounds, 少林景区内度假村20号院 dm/d ¥80/198; aW)
If waking up to the sounds of crowing roosters and future Jet Lis jogging laps past the door sounds like your cup of chá, don't miss this opportunity to stay at Shàolín Temple. Set in a residential compound on a hillside opposite the main temple, this is without a doubt the best place to soak up the full Shàolín experience.
Make sure to reserve in advance – it's hard to find (about a 20- to 30-minute walk from the ticket office), and you need to purchase a ticket before you check in (unless it's after 6pm). They can help arrange private martial arts classes, too.
Dēngfēng Climb HostelHOSTEL$
(登封攀登国际青年旅舍, Dēngfēng Pāndēng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %138 3853 6111; Songyang Lu, 嵩阳路 dm/d ¥30/120; aW)
The simple and friendly Climb Hostel has an enviable location set against the mountains, just steps from the entrance to Mt Tàishì. Located all the way in the north of town, it can be a bit tricky to reach on your first try, though. Bus 6 runs almost here from the bus station (last stop, then ask directions).
Shàolín HotelHOTEL$$
(少林宾馆, Shàolín Bīnguǎn %0371 6016 1616; 66 Zhongyue Dajie, 中岳大街66号 d from ¥238; aW)
Bright and cheery staff, good discounts and clean rooms make this neat and trim midrange hotel a good choice. Look for the four-storey white building east of Dicos (a fast-food restaurant) with the yellow-and-red sign. It's a ¥7 taxi ride from the bus station. Discounts of ¥100 available.
WǔSHù OR GōNGFù?
When planning to study Chinese martial arts, the first question you should ask is: shall I learn wǔshù (武术) or gōngfù (功夫)? There may be considerable overlap, but there are crucial differences.
Wǔshù is a more recently coined term that's strongly associated with athletic martial arts displays and competition-based martial arts patterns or forms. Gōngfù (kung fu), however, is more about the development of internal and more esoteric skills, rather than physical prowess or mainstream athleticism.
If you're lucky enough to see a martial arts master break a piece of ceramic from a bowl and grind it to dust with his bare fingers, this is gōngfù, not wǔshù.
3Entertainment
Wǔshù Training CentreMARTIAL ARTS
(武术馆, Wǔshù Guǎn h9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm)
Coming through Shàolín Temple's main entrance, you’ll pass several wǔshù schools. On the right, about 500m in, is the Wǔshù Training Centre, with free entertaining performances by the novices – a quintessential part of the Shàolín experience. (There is no 9.30am show in the off-season.)
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yīnháng 52 Zhongyue Dajie, 中岳大街52号 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Has a 24-hour ATM and foreign exchange.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(186 Shaolin Dadao, 少林大道186号 h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
China International Travel ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION
(CITS, 中国国际旅行社, Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè %0371 6287 3387; www.cits.net; Dayu Lu; 大禹路 )
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng cnr Zhongyue & Wangji Rd, 中岳路与望箕路 )
Centrally located post office.
Number Two People’s HospitalHOSPITAL
(第二人民医院, Dì’èr Rénmín Yīyuàn %0371 6289 9999; 189 Shaolin Dadao, 少林大道189号 )
On the main road.
Train Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE
(火车预售票处, huǒchē yùshòupiàochù 72 Shaolin Dadao, 少林大道72号 h8am-6pm)
8Getting There & Away
The main bus station (总站; zǒng zhàn) is in the east of town; jump on bus 1 (¥1) to reach Zhongyue Dajie and the town centre. There’s also a west bus station (西站; xī zhàn), which some buses head to after dropping people off at the main station. Buses run to the following:
AKāifēng ¥40, three hours, four daily
ALuòyáng ¥25, two hours, half-hourly
AZhèngzhōu ¥27, two hours, half-hourly
Don't buy the cheaper Zhèngzhōu bus ticket (¥22) – it won't take you to the central bus station.
To purchase tickets in advance for trains departing from Zhèngzhōu, go to the train ticket office.
Taxis are a cheap and easy way to get around. Fares start at ¥5, though many drivers insist on a ¥10 flat fee (accept or switch taxis).
Luòyáng 洛阳
%0379 / Pop 1.8 million
Access point for the incredible Lóngmén Grottoes outside town, Luòyáng (洛阳) was one of China’s true dynastic citadels. The city was the prosperous capital of 13 dynasties, until the Northern Song dynasty shifted its capital east along the Yellow River to Kāifēng in the 10th century. The mighty Sui- and Tang-dynasty walls formed an imposing rectangle north and south of the Luò River, while worshippers flocked to 1300 Buddhist temples through the city.
Luòyáng was once the very centre of the Chinese universe and the eastern capital of the resplendent Tang dynasty. Tragically, little remains of this glorious past: the heart of the magnificent Sui dynasty palace complex was centred on the point where today’s Zhongzhou Zhonglu and Dingding Lu intersect in a frenzy of traffic.
Luòyáng
1Sights
oLuòyáng MuseumMUSEUM
(洛阳市博物馆, Luòyáng Shì Bówùguǎn www.lymuseum.com; Nietai Lu, 聂泰路 h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F
This huge museum, situated out of the action south of the river, has exhilarating displays across two huge floors and is one of the few places to get ancient Luòyáng in any kind of perspective. There’s an absorbing collection of three-colour Tang dynasty sāncǎi porcelain; the city’s rise is traced through dynastic pottery, bronzeware and other magnificent objects. An audio guide (¥40) is also available.
Ancient Tombs MuseumMUSEUM
(古墓博物馆, Gǔmù Bówùguǎn Airport Rd, 机场路 h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F
This superb but little-visited museum has three main exhibits: 20 reconstructed tombs (spanning five main dynasties, or over 1000 years), re-created using original building materials; original tomb murals; and a Northern Wei royal burial mound (closed at the time of research). Grab an audio guide (¥20) on the way in and let loose your inner Indiana Jones: crawl on hands and knees into a 2000-year-old tomb to admire delicately carved peony panels and the faded frescoes on a domed ceiling.
The museum is 7km north of town. To get here, take bus 83 north from the train station (¥1, 20 minutes). A taxi will run about ¥30.
Luòyáng Old TownAREA
(老城区, lǎochéngqū MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Any Chinese city worth its rice has an Old Town. Luòyáng’s is east of the rebuilt Lìjǐng Gate (丽景门; Lìjǐng Mén
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Xi Dajie; 西大街 ¥30; h8am-8pm summer, shorter hours rest of year), where the narrow Xi Dajie yields up a plethora of shops, grey-brick houses and the occasional creaking monument, including the old Drum Tower (鼓楼; Gǔ Lóu) rising up on Dong Dajie (东大街) and, just south, the lovely brick Wénfēng Pagoda (文峰塔; Wénfēng Tǎ), originally built in the Song dynasty.
Wángchéng ParkPARK
(王城公园, Wángchéng Gōngyuán
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Zhongzhou Zhonglu, 中洲中路 h6am-9.30pm summer, shorter hours rest of year)
One of Luòyáng’s indispensable green lungs, this park is the site of the annual Peony Festival. Unfortunately, the park is home to a decrepit zoo. There’s also an amusement park (rides ¥15 to ¥20).
zFestivals & Events
Peony FestivalCULTURAL
(Wángchéng Park; hApr)
The annual peony festival floods Wángchéng Park with colour, floral aficionados, photographers, young girls with garlands on their heads and hawkers selling huge bouquets of flowers.
4Sleeping
Luòyáng has a large range of hotels in every budget bracket dotted all over the city.
Luòyáng Yìjiā International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(洛阳易家国际青年旅舍, Luòyáng Yìjiā Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0379 6351 2311; 329 Zhongzhou Donglu, 中洲东路329号 dm ¥30-50, d & tw ¥158; aiW)
Located in the busy Old Town, this hostel hits its stride with a lively communal area and bar. Six-bed dorms are a little tight; private rooms are the equivalent of a two-star Chinese room. Rooms facing the main road are noisy (and bright), so check first. Transport to town and all the major sights is within walking distance.
Buses 5 and 41 from the train and bus stations come past. From the Lóngmén train station, take bus 49, then switch to bus 9 at Xiguan.
Christian’s HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(克丽司汀酒店, Kèlìsītīng Jiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0379 6326 6666; www.5xjd.com; 56 Jiefang Lu, 解放路56号, entrance on Tanggong Xilu d from ¥1499; aiW)
This boutique hotel scores points for its variety of rooms, each with a kitchen and dining area, large plush beds, flat-screen TVs, and mini-bar. Do you go for Tang dynasty style or white walls and a circular bed? Regardless, you’ll be thanking the eponymous Christian each time you step into the room. Outside of April, discounts usually slash rates in half.
5Eating
Luòyáng’s famous ‘water banquet’ (水席; shǔixí) is much discussed on China’s culinary grapevine. The main dishes of this 24-course meal are soups served up with the speed of flowing water – hence the name.
In the centre of town, the Today Mall (新都汇; Xīndùhuì), at the corner of Tanggong Xilu and Jiefang Lu, has a wide variety of things to eat.
Niūniū DàpánjīXINJIANG$
(妞妞大盘鸡
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 329 Zhongzhou Donglu, 中州东路329号 big-plate chicken ¥32; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm)
A Xīnjiāng speciality, dàpánjī (大盘鸡; big-plate chicken) is a spicy chicken, potato and pepper stew; halfway through the meal, handmade noodles and greens are added to the mix – the ensemble is absolutely delicious. A small portion feeds two people, and this is the only dish they serve, so you can be assured they do it well!
Old Town Night MarketSTREET FOOD$
(十字街夜市, Shízìjiē Yèshì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Xinghua Jie, 兴华街 meals ¥10-50; h6pm-1am)
Festooned with brightly lit red lanterns, this lively night market has a cornucopia of snacks from lamb kebabs (羊肉串; yángròu chuàn) and fermented soup noodles (浆面; jiāng miàn) to roasted garlic-stuffed eggplant (蒜香茄子; suànxiāng qiézi). Stalls on the left offer a wide range of cooked dishes served at tables set up on the sidewalk behind.
Qiánmén Kǎoyā DàjiǔdiànPEKING DUCK$$
(前门烤鸭大酒店
GOOGLE MAP
; %0379 6395 3333; cnr Zhongzhou Donglu & Minzu Jie; half/whole duck ¥70/138, other dishes from ¥22; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm)
This efficient and smart choice serves up rich and tasty roast duck, cooked by an army of white-clad chefs. There are other vegetable and meat dishes on the menu, but why bother?
8Information
Internet cafes (¥3 per hour) are scattered around the train station and sprinkled along nearby Jinguyuan Lu.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Daonan Lu, 道南路 )
Handy branch just west of the train station.
Bank of ChinaBANK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongzhou Xilu, 中州西路 )
For foreign exchange and cashing travellers cheques.
Industrial & Commercial BankBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongzhou Zhonglu, 中州中路 )
Huge branch; foreign exchange and 24-hour ATM.
Luòyáng Central HospitalHOSPITAL
(洛阳市中心医院, Luòyáng Shì Zhōngxīn Yīyuàn
GOOGLE MAP
; %0379 6389 2222; 288 Zhongzhou Zhonglu, 中州中路288号 )
Works in cooperation with SOS International; also has a 24-hour pharmacy.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú
GOOGLE MAP
; %0379 6313 3313; cnr Taitang Lu & Guanxi Lu, 太康路与馆西路交叉口 h8am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
The exit-entry department (出入境大厅; chūrùjìng dàtīng) is across the river to the southwest.
Train Ticket AgencyTICKET OFFICE
(火车票代售处, Huǒchēpiào Dàishòuchǔ 249 Zhongzhou Donglu, 中州东路249号 h9am-5pm)
Sells train tickets for a ¥5 commission.
8Getting There & Away
Air
You would do better to fly into or out of Zhèngzhōu. One or two daily flights operate to Běijīng (¥275, 1½ hours), Shànghǎi (¥710, 1½ hours), Guǎngzhōu (¥900, two hours) and other cities. Obtain tickets through hotels or Ctrip.
Bus
Regular departures from the long-distance bus station (洛阳一运汽车站; Luòyáng yīyùn qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; 51 Jinguyuan Lu; 金谷园路 ), located diagonally across from the train station, include the following:
ADēngfēng ¥24, two hours, every 40 minutes (5.30am to 6.50pm)
AKāifēng ¥60, four hours, half-hourly
AShàolín Temple ¥19, 1½ hours, every 40 minutes (5.30am to 6.50pm)
AZhèngzhōu ¥50, two hours, half-hourly
Buses to similar destinations also depart from the friendly and less frantic Jǐnyuǎn bus station (锦远汽车站; Jǐnyuǎn qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ), just west of the train station.
Train
Luòyáng’s Lóngmén Station (洛阳龙门站, Lùoyáng Lóngmén Zhàn), over the river in the south of town, is the high-speed station. The main train station (洛阳火车站, Lùoyáng huǒchē zhàn) has slower trains.
You can get tickets for a ¥5 commission from a train ticket agency.
Destinations departing the main train station:
ABěijīng West Seat/sleeper ¥105/208, 7½ to 11 hours, seven daily
AKāifēng Hard seat ¥30, three hours, nine daily (afternoon only)
ANánjīng Seat/sleeper ¥112/219, eight to 12 hours, seven daily
AShànghǎi Seat/sleeper ¥142/276, nine to 17 hours, six daily
From Luòyáng Lóngmén Station:
ABěijīng West G train 2nd/1st class ¥367/587, four hours, seven daily
AShànghǎi D train sleeper ¥765, nine hours, 22.52pm
AWǔhàn 2nd/1st class ¥302/483, three hours, regular
AXī’ān North G train 2nd/1st class ¥175/280, 1¾ hours, frequent
AZhèngzhōu G train 2nd/1st class ¥60/90, 40 minutes, frequent
8Getting Around
The airport is 12km north of the city. Bus 83 (¥1, 30 minutes) runs to/from the parking lot to the left of the train station. A taxi to/from the train station costs about ¥35.
Buses 5 and 41 go to the Old Town from the train station, running via Wángchéng Sq. Bus 49 (among others) runs from Lóngmén station to the centre of town.
Taxis are ¥5 at flag fall, making them good value. Expect to pay about ¥30 to Lóngmén station and ¥10 to the main train and bus station area.
Around Luòyáng
oLóngmén GrottoesBUDDHIST SITE
(龙门石窟, Lóngmén Shíkū ¥100, English-speaking guide ¥100; h8am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, shorter hours rest of year)
The ravaged grottoes at Lóngmén constitute one of China’s handful of surviving masterpieces of Buddhist rock carving. A sutra in stone, the epic achievement of the Lóngmén Grottoes was commenced by chisellers from the Northern Wei dynasty after the capital relocated here from Dàtóng in the year 494. Over the next two centuries, more than 100,000 images and statues of Buddha and his disciples emerged from over a kilometre of limestone cliff wall along the Yī River (伊河; Yī Hé).
A disheartening amount of decapitation disfigures the statuary at this Unesco World Heritage Site. In the early 20th century, many effigies were beheaded by unscrupulous collectors or simply extracted whole, many ending up abroad in such institutions as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Atkinson Museum in Kansas City and the Tokyo National Museum. Many statues have clearly just had their faces crudely bludgeoned off, vandalism that probably dates to the Cultural Revolution and earlier episodes of anti-Buddhist fervour. The elements have also intervened, wearing smooth the faces of many other statues.
The grottoes are scattered in a line on the west and east sides of the river. Most of the significant Buddhist carvings are on the west side, but a small crop can also be admired after traversing the bridge to the east side. Admission also includes entry to a temple and garden on the east side. English captions are rudimentary.
The grottoes are 13km south of Luòyáng and can be reached by taxi (¥30); bus 81 (¥1, 40 minutes) from the east side of Luòyáng’s train station; or bus 53 from Zhongzhou Donglu.
From the west side, you can take a boat (¥25) back to the main entrance to get a riverside view of the grottoes (note that you can’t re-enter the west side once you leave). On the east side, electric carts (¥10) can take you to a variety of locations. All in all, it's a 3km walk; expect to spend at least 2½ hours here.
West Side
Work began on the Three Bīnyáng Grottoes (宾阳三洞; Bīnyáng Sān Dòng) during the Northern Wei dynasty. Despite the completion of two of the grottos during the Sui and Tang dynasties, statues here all display the benevolent expressions that characterised Northern Wei style. Traces of pigment remain within the three large grottoes and other small niches honeycomb the cliff walls. Nearby is the Móyá Three Buddha Niche (摩崖三佛龛, Móyá Sānfó Kān), with seven figures that date to the Tang dynasty.
The Tang dynasty Ten Thousand Buddha Grotto (万佛洞; Wànfó Dòng) dates from 680. In addition to its namesake galaxy of tiny bas-relief Buddhas, there is a fine effigy of the Amitabha Buddha. Note the red pigment on the ceiling.
The most physically imposing and magnificent of all the Lóngmén carvings, the vast Losana Buddha Statue Grotto (奉先寺; Fèngxiān Sì) was created during the Tang dynasty between 672 and 675; it contains the best examples of sculpture, despite evident weathering and vandalism. Nine principal figures dominate: the Buddha, two disciples, two Bodhisattvas, two heavenly kings and two guardians. The 17m-high seated central Buddha is said to be Losana, whose face is allegedly modelled on Tang empress and Buddhist patron Wu Zetian, who funded its carving.
The Tang figures tend to be more three-dimensional than the Northern Wei figures, while their expressions and poses also seem more natural. In contrast to the otherworldly effigies of the Northern Wei, many Tang figures possess a more fearsome ferocity and muscularity, most noticeable in the huge guardian figure in the north wall.
East Side
Although the east side grottoes (东山石窟; Dōngshān Shíkū) lack comparable grandeur – many are even gated shut – there are still some gems to seek out here. The first stop you'll come across after crossing the bridge is the Léigǔtái Architectural Site (擂鼓台建筑遗址; Léigǔtái Jiànzhù Yízhǐ), which takes visitors through an earlier excavation, with various Tang and Song relics on display. It's through a pair of doors at the top of the steps.
Although badly faded, the delicate Thousand Arm and Thousand Eye Guanyin (千手千眼观音龛; Qiānshǒu Qiānyǎn Guānyīn Kān) in Grotto 2132 is a splendid bas-relief dating to the Tang dynasty, revealing the Goddess of Mercy framed in a huge fan of carved hands, each sporting an eye.
Further is the eastern side's largest site, the Reading Sutra Grotto (看经寺洞; Kàn Jīng Sìdòng), with a carved lotus on its ceiling and 29 expressive luóhàn (Buddhists who have achieved nirvana) around the base of the walls.
At the top of a steep flight of steps, the Xiāngshān Temple (香山寺; Xiāngshān Sì) nestles against a hill. It was first built in 516 and has been repeatedly restored. Look for a stele with a poem written by Emperor Qianlong, who visited and was moved to honour the temple’s beauty. There’s also a villa which once belonged to Chiang Kaishek, built in 1936 to celebrate his 50th birthday.
The final stop is a lovely garden built around the tomb of Bai Juyi (白居易墓地; Bái Jūyì Mùdì), a poet from the Tang dynasty. It’s a peaceful, leafy place where you can rest your tired feet. There’s an alfresco teahouse here where you can get tea (from ¥98), snacks and instant noodles.
White Horse TempleBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(白马寺, Báimǎ Sì ¥35; h7.40am-6pm)
Although its original structures have all been replaced and older Buddhist shrines may have vanished, this vast, active monastery outside Luòyáng is regarded as China’s first surviving Buddhist temple, originally dating from the 1st century AD. When two Han dynasty court emissaries went in search of Buddhist scriptures, they met two Indian monks in Afghanistan; the monks returned to Luòyáng on white horses carrying Buddhist sutras and statues. The impressed emperor built the temple for the monks; it's also their resting place.
Tucked amid the smoky incense burners and usual Buddhist halls are some unusual sights; plan on spending at least two hours here. In the back of the complex, beneath a raised hall, is the Shìyuán Art Gallery (释源美术馆; Shìyuán Měishùguǎn), displaying temporary exhibitions. Also in the back of the complex is a surprisingly chic teahouse (止语茶舍; zhǐyǔ cháshě), an excellent place to take refuge and relax with a pot of weak tea (free).
West of the historic grounds is the new International Zone, featuring a large collection of temples built by Thailand, Myanmar and India. It's certainly worth strolling around.
Way at the opposite end of the grounds are gardens and the ancient 12-tiered Qíyún Pagoda (齐云塔; Qíyún Tǎ), encircled by worshippers.
The temple is 13km east of Luòyáng, around 40 minutes away on bus 56 from the Xīguān (西关) stop. Bus 58 from Zhongzhou Donglu in the Old Town also runs here.
Guōliàngcūn 郭亮村
%0373 / Pop 500
On its cliff-top perch high up in the Mountains of the Ten Thousand Immortals (万仙山; Wànxiān Shān) in north Hénán, this delightful high-altitude stone hamlet was for centuries sheltered from the outside world by a combination of inaccessibility and anonymity. Guōliàngcūn (郭亮村) shot to fame as the bucolic backdrop to a clutch of Chinese films, which firmly embedded the village in contemporary Chinese mythology.
Today, the village attracts legions of artists, who journey here to capture the unreal mountain scenery on paper and canvas. Joining them are Chinese tourists who get disgorged by the busloads. For a true rustic mountaintop experience, come on an out-of-season weekday when it’s more tranquil. New buildings have sprung up at the village’s base, but the original dwellings – climbing the mountain slope – retain their simple, rustic charms. Long treks beneath the marvellous limestone peaks more than compensate for the hard slog of journeying here.
1Sights & Activities
All of the village dwellings, many hung with butter-yellow bàngzi (sweetcorn cobs), are hewn from the same local stone that paves the slender alleyways, sculpts the bridges and fashions the picturesque gates of Guōliàngcūn. Swallowed up by new construction, the original village can be easy to miss – it's on the right and up the hill from the rest of town.
You will have passed by the Precipice Gallery (绝壁长廊; Juébì Chángláng ), also referred to on some signs as ‘Long Corridor in the Cliffs’, en route to Guōliàngcūn, but backtrack down for a closer perspective on these plunging cliffs, with dramatic views from the tunnel carved through the rock. Before this tunnel was built (between 1972 and 1978) by a local man called Shen Mingxin and some others, the only way into the village was via the Sky Ladder (天梯; Tiān Tī ) – Ming dynasty steps hewn from the local stone, with no guard rails but amazing views.
The walk to the Sky Ladder is among the area's most scenic (and tranquil). To get here, take the left fork of the road heading towards the tunnel and walk for 2km.
Over the bridge on the other side of the precipice from the village, walk past the small row of cottages, set almost on the edge of the cliff, called Yáshàng Rénjiā (崖上人家 ); you can step onto a platform atop a pillar of rock for astonishing views into the canyon.
Otherwise, head up valley through the strip of street stalls and hotels to get to the start of a 5km circuit. From the end of the street, it's an additional 1.3km to the starting point of the loop. (Sadly, the mood of the area has been spoilt in parts by the addition of several constructed oddities, including a mini zip-line and a drain-like slide ride from the top of the mountain.) If you start on the left-hand set of steps, you’ll first go past the awe-inspiring curtain of rock above the Shouting Spring (喊泉; Hǎn Quán ). According to local lore, its flow responds to the loudness of your whoops (it doesn’t, but the site is predictably a riot of noise). You’ll also pass the peaceful Old Pool (老潭; Lǎo Tán), which is thankfully out of earshot of the spring. Further along is the Red Dragon Cave (红龙洞; Hónglóng Dòng), now closed, and after a few steep flights of stairs, the slide ride (¥30) and then the small White Dragon Cave (白龙洞; Báilóng Dòng ¥20), which you can skip with no regrets. The last sight is a set of steps that lead up to Pearl Spring (珍珠泉; Zhēnzhū Quán ), a fissure in the mountain from which pours out cool, clear, spring water. You can, of course, do the loop in the opposite direction.
Once you’ve seen the big sights, get off the beaten trail and onto one of the small paths heading into the hills (such as the boulder-strewn, brook-side trail along the flank of Guōliàngcūn that leads further up into the mountain). Take your own water with you.
Several kilometres before the village, you'll need to purchase an admission ticket to the Wànxiān Shān Scenic Area (¥125); the required ticket includes free transport on the park's green shuttle buses.
WHAT TO WEAR
At 1700m above sea level and approximately 6°C colder than Zhèngzhōu, Guōliàngcūn is cool enough to be devoid of mosquitoes year-round (some locals say), but pack warm clothes for winter visits, which can be bone-numbing. Visiting in low season may seem odd advice, but come evening the village can be utterly tranquil, and moonlit nights are intoxicating. Pack a headlamp as lights beyond the hotels are scarce. Note that the village electricity is only turned on at night.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are hotels galore in Guōliàngcūn, most heading up the valley, though the village and road opposite also have rooms. All offer identical two-star quality, with hot showers, wi-fi and TVs (no toiletries or towels though). Rooms cost ¥40 to ¥100 depending on size and orientation. Prices are a bit higher during the summer but negotiable in the low season and on weekdays.
Small restaurants and eateries are everywhere you turn, with most attached to one of the innumerable village guesthouses. Expect a sampling of classic Chinese dishes and noodles, costing in the range of ¥15 to ¥40.
8Information
There are no ATMs and there is nowhere to change money in Guōliàngcūn.
8Getting There & Away
You can reach Guōliàngcūn from Xīnxiāng (新乡), between Ānyáng and Zhèngzhōu. Fast trains run from Zhèngzhōu east train station to Xīnxiāng east train station (¥24, 45 minutes), as do regular buses (¥25, two hours). From here, you'll need to take a cab to Xīnxiāng's main bus station (客运总站; kèyùn zǒngzhàn; about ¥12) to catch the bus to Huīxiàn (辉县; ¥7, 45 minutes), which runs regularly. Bus 66 (¥1) also runs to the main bus station.
Seven buses (¥15, 1¾ hours, first/last bus 7.20am/5.25pm) from Huīxiàn’s bus station (辉县站; Huīxiàn zhàn) run to the Wànxiān Shān ticket office. Here, you will need to switch to the green shuttle, which will take you the rest of the way to the village.
To return, take the green shuttle down to Nánpíng (南坪; 25 minutes), a village below Guōliàngcūn, from where minibuses depart for Huīxiàn (¥20) at 6.20am, 9am, noon, 1pm, 1.30pm, 3pm and 5pm. Most say they go directly to Xīnxiāng, but unless it's standing room only, they only go as far as Huīxiàn.
8Getting Around
Electric carts (¥20 return) run to the Sky Ladder (2km) and the trail for the Shouting Spring loop (1.3km). Follow the signs to each and you'll find the carts waiting along the way.
Kāifēng 开封
%0371 / Pop 1.25 million
More than any other of Hénán’s ancient capitals, Kāifēng (开封) has made an effort to recall its former grandeur. The walled town has character: you may have to squint a bit and sift the reproductions from its genuine historical narrative, but the city still offers up an intriguing display of age-old charm, magnificent market food, relics from its long-vanished apogee and colourful chrysanthemums, the city flower (Kāifēng is also known as Júchéng, or ‘Chrysanthemum Town’).
You won’t see soaring skyscrapers, though – one reason being that buildings requiring deep foundations are prohibited, for fear of destroying the ancient northern Song dynasty city below.
History
Once the prosperous capital of the Northern Song dynasty (960–1126), Kāifēng was established south of the Yellow River, but not far enough to escape the river’s capricious wrath. After centuries of flooding, the city of the Northern Song largely lies buried 8m to 9m deep in hardened silt. Between 1194 and 1938 the city flooded 368 times, an average of once every two years.
Kāifēng was also the first city in China where Jewish merchants, travelling along the Silk Road during the Song dynasty, settled when they arrived. A small Christian and Catholic community also lives in Kāifēng alongside a much larger local Muslim Hui community.
Kāifēng
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
8Information
1Sights
oTemple of the Chief MinisterBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(大相国寺, Dà Xiàngguó Sì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Ziyou Lu, 自有路 ¥40; h8am-6.30pm summer, shorter hours rest of year)
First founded in AD 555, this frequently rebuilt temple vanished along with Kāifēng in the early 1640s, when rebels breached the Yellow River’s dykes. During the Northern Song, the temple covered a massive 34 hectares and housed over 10,000 monks. The show-stopper today is the mesmerising Four-Faced Thousand Hand Thousand Eye Guanyin (四面千手千眼观世音, Sìmiàn Qiānshǒu Qiānyǎn Guānshìyīn), towering within the octagonal Arhat Hall (罗汉殿, Luóhàn Diàn), beyond the Hall of Tathagata (大雄宝殿, Dàxióng Bǎodiàn).
Kāifēng FǔHISTORIC SITE
(开封府
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; north side, Baogong East Lake, 包公湖北岸 ¥60; h7am-7pm summer, shorter hours rest of year)
This reconstructed site of the government offices of the Northern Song has daily theatricals commencing daily outside the gates – as the doors are thrown open costumed actors play period scenes, complete with cracking whips and the sound of gongs. They then retreat inside to continue the play (in Chinese). Drama aside, the site is one of Kāifēng's better re-creations of Song imperial life, with English explanations, martial parade grounds, a prison and several appearances by the famed Judge Bao.
Kāifēng City WallsWALLS
(城墙, Chéng Qiáng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
)F
Kāifēng is ringed by a relatively intact, much-restored Qing dynasty wall, which you can climb up at various points. Today’s bastion was built on the foundations of the Song dynasty Inner Wall (内城; Nèichéng). Encased with grey bricks, rear sections of the ramparts have been recently buttressed unattractively with concrete. Rising up outside was the mighty, now buried Outer Wall (外城; Wàichéng), a colossal construction containing 18 gates, which looped south of Pó Pagoda.
Former Site of Kāifēng SynagogueRUINS
(开封犹太教堂遗址, Kāifēng Yóutài Jiàotáng Yízhǐ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jiefang Rd Tujie Section, 解放路土街段 )
Sadly, nothing remains of the synagogue – finally swept away in mid-19th-century floodwaters – except a well with an iron lid in the boiler room of the Kāifēng Traditional Chinese Medicine Hospital (开封中医院, Kāifēng Zhōngyīyuàn), which may allow you to examine it. The spirit of the synagogue lingers, however, in the name of the brick alley immediately south of the hospital – Jiaojing Hutong (教经胡同, Teaching the Torah Alley).
A local English-speaking guide (137 8115 2704; yisrael-kaifeng@hotmail.com) familiar with local Jewish history lives in the house with the blue sign. Send an email prior to visiting if you intend to engage her guide services or want an extended chat.
Shānshǎngān Guild HallHISTORIC BUILDING
(山陕甘会馆, Shānshǎn’gān Huìguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 85 Xufu Jie, 徐府街85号 ¥25; h8am-6.30pm summer, shorter hours rest of year)
This tiny, elaborately styled guild hall was built as a lodging and meeting place during the Qing dynasty by an association of merchants from Shānxi (山西), Shaanxi (陕西) and Gānsù (甘肃) provinces. Note the ornate carvings on the roof beams. You can delve into the exhibition on historic Kāifēng and see a fascinating diorama of the old Song city – with its palace in the centre of town – and compare it with a model of modern Kāifēng.
Kāifēng MuseumMUSEUM
(开封博物馆, Kāifēng Bówùguǎn
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 393 2178, ext 8010; Zhengkai Dadao, near Wu Dajie, 郑开大道与五大街交叉口 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)F
Containing a modest collection of archaeological finds, woodblock prints and historical objects, the Kāifēng Museum was slated to move into a new home 5km west of the city in 2017. The draw for most is two notable Jewish stelae, managed by the Kāifēng Institute for Research on the History of Chinese Jews. A ticket to see the stelae was ¥50 at the old museum (at time of research the future price was unknown).
Iron Pagoda ParkPARK
(铁塔公园, Tiě Tǎ Gōngyuán
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 210 Beimen Dajie, 北门大街210号 day/night ¥40/80; h8am-6.30pm)
Rising up within Iron Pagoda Park is a magnificent 11th-century pagoda (55m tall), a gorgeous, slender brick edifice wrapped in glazed rust-coloured tiles (hence the name); its narrow stairs are climbable for ¥35. A 30-minute evening light show is held at 7.30pm, 8pm, 9pm and 9.30pm. Take bus 1 from Zhongshan Lu; alternatively, a taxi will cost ¥10.
ALONG THE RIVER DURING THE QINGMING FESTIVAL
Now held in the Forbidden City and widely acknowledged as China’s first shén (godly) painting, Along the River During the Qingming Festival was completed by Zhang Zeduan (张择端) in the early 12th century. These days, you’ll see it everywhere in Kāifēng. Museums and parks have it in carved wood and stone bas-relief, it's found in scale dioramas, souvenir posters and advertising (it’s on the Kāifēng Hostel’s poster), and there's even a historical theme park modelled on it.
The long (about 25cm x 529cm) painting depicts life in a city that experts have attributed as Kāifēng. It’s packed to the gills with details of the period: boats unloading goods at a harbour, an inn crowded with customers and children playing on the streets. As you would imagine, it offers valuable insight into the life and times of a large Song dynasty town. When the original is displayed in Beijing, queues to see it last hours. Art enthusiasts will no doubt recognise later copies of the work, some of which are equally famous – the 1737 version, presented to Emperor Qianlong, is now held in Taipei's national Palace Museum.
You can see versions at several places in Kāifēng, including the Riverside Scenic Park, the scale diorama in the Shānshǎngān Guild Hall and the replica version in the Kāifēng Museum.
zFestivals & Events
Chrysanthemum FestivalCULTURAL
(hOct)
Millions of chrysanthemums are on full display at Lóngtíng Park (龙亭公园; Lóngtíng Gōngyuán
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 566 0316; Zhongshan Lu; 中山路 ¥80; h8am-6pm) and elsewhere around the city during this autumn festival. In 2015, botanists grafted 641 flowers together, earning a spot in the Guinness World Records.
4Sleeping
At the time of research, Kāifēng had closed all hotels to foreigners except for a few four- and five-star options. However, both the Jǐnjiāng Inn (锦江之星; Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 2399 6666; 88 Zhongshan Lu; 中山路88号 d ¥208-246; aiW) and the Tiānfú Hostel have accepted foreigners in the past; check with them if you're looking for budget accommodation. If nothing is available, you can always visit as a day trip from Zhèngzhōu.
Tiānfú International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(天福国际青年旅舍, Kāifēng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 2315 3789; 30 Yingbin Lu, 迎宾路30号 dm ¥80, d from ¥298; aiW)
On our last visit, this so-so hostel was being managed by three middle-aged women who seemed unlikely candidates for conveying that fun youth hostel experience. Shooing us out the door with claims that the hostel was closed for renovations (it wasn't), they were neither helpful nor particularly friendly. Definitely confirm before you book here. No English.
Courtyard & Sunlight InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(阳光纳里酒店, Yángguāng Nàlǐ Jiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 2238 2222; 5 Qishengjiao Commercial Area, Longting Xilu, 龙亭西路七盛角商业街5号楼 d from ¥468; aW)
Part of a re-created Song dynasty tourist street, this boutique hotel offers a peaceful setting where you can unwind at the end of the day. Expect some semblance of style with a faux interior courtyard, decorated with upside-down parasols, and traditional-style furnishings in the rooms. Bike rental is also available. It's just east of the Millennium City Park (清明上河园; Qīngmíng Shànghéyuán
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Longting Nanlu; 龙亭南路 day ¥100, night ¥219-299; h8am-6pm).
Pullman HotelHOTEL$$$
(铂尓曼酒店, Bó'ěrmàn Jiǔdiàn
MAP
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; %0371 2358 9999; www.pullmanhotels.com; 16 Longting Beilu, 龙亭北路16号 d from ¥2062; naWs)
Set in expansive, park-like grounds, Kāifēng's top hotel choice opened in 2015. Rooms are stylish, with woven tapestries featuring the city's famous sights, though it must be said the bathrooms are a bit jarring, featuring an unusually garish marble. Discounts of 66% make this an excellent, affordable luxury choice.
5Eating
Kāifēng is particularly famous for its snacks and night markets, and you'll find several food streets scattered around town. Xīsī Square is the best of the night markets; the Drum Tower night market is more central but with less variety.
Bǎiqíyuán Food CourtFOOD HALL$
(百奇源美食, Bǎiqíyán Měishí
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 4th fl, New Mart Mall, Ximen Dajie, 西门大街新玛特4楼 meals from ¥20; h9.30am-8pm)
This tempting food court offers plenty of easy-to-order meals, with noodles, dumplings, fried rice, soups and personal stir-fries to choose from. Pre-pay at the entrance (¥10 deposit), take your card and enjoy!
Xīsī Square Night MarketSTREET FOOD$
(西司广场夜市, Xīsī Guǎngchǎng Yèshì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Dingjiao Jie, 丁角街 meals from ¥20; h6.30pm-late)
Join the scrum weaving between stalls busy with red-faced popcorn sellers and hollering Hui Muslim chefs cooking up kebabs and náng bread. There are loads of vendors, selling cured meats, hearty jiānbǐng guǒzi (煎饼裹子; pancake with chopped onions), sweet potatoes, roast rabbit, xiǎolóngbāo (Shànghǎi-style dumplings), peanut cake (花生糕, huāshēng gāo) and cups of sugarcane juice.
Look for yángròu kàngmó (羊肉炕馍; lamb in a parcel of bread), a local Kāifēng Muslim speciality, and for noodle vendors who pull and twist fresh níuròu lāmiàn (牛肉拉面; noodles in beef broth). Take bus 24 to get here.
Gǔlóu Night MarketSTREET FOOD$
(鼓楼夜市, Gǔlóu Yèshì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Sihou Jie, 寺后街 meals from ¥15; h6.30pm-late)
Kāifēng’s bustling night market wraps around the Drum Tower, sprawling in various directions, and serves the usual run of point-and-grill kebabs and steamers of soup dumplings. It's always crowded with locals out enjoying themselves.
Vegetarian RestaurantVEGETARIAN$$
(素斋部, Sùzhāibù
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Temple of the Chief Minister, 大相国寺, Dà Xiāngguó Sì ¥32-88; h11.30am-2pm; 
v)
Looking out onto the grounds of the Temple of the Chief Minister, the outdoor tables at this small Buddhist dining hall offer the city's most atmospheric setting. Sample vegetarian classics such as braised spare ribs or stewed fish – all made of tofu and vegetables, of course – or simply relax with a pot of tea.
8Information
The area around Zhongshan Lu has internet cafes, but at the time of research, you needed local ID to use the computers. Some places may let you go online for an hour or so.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Xi Dajie & Zhongshan Lu, 西大街与中山路交叉口 )
Has a 24-hour ATM.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng
GOOGLE MAP
; Ziyou Lu, 自由路 h8am-5.30pm)
West of the Temple of the Chief Minister.
IATA Air Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 2595 5555; cnr Zhongshan Lu & Shengfu Jie, 中山路与省府街交叉口 h9am-5pm)
Kāifēng Number One People’s HospitalHOSPITAL
(开封第一人民医院, Kāifēng Dìyī Rénmín Yīyuàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 2567 1288; 85 Hedao Jie, 河道街85号 )
Located right in the heart of town.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局, Gōng’ānjú
GOOGLE MAP
; %0371 2595 8899; 86 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路86号 h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri)
Visa renewals.
Railway Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE
(火车票代售, Huǒchēpiào Dàishòu
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Yingbin Lu, 迎宾路 h8am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm)
Zhāngzhòngjǐng PharmacyPHARMACY
(张仲景大药房, Zhāngzhòngjǐng Dàyàofáng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Xufu Jie, 徐府街 h7.30am-10pm summer, 8am-9pm winter)
Next to Shānshǎngān Guild Hall.
8Getting There & Away
Air
The nearest airport is at Zhèngzhōu. Tickets can be bought at the IATA Air Ticket Office, next to the Public Security Bureau. The airport shuttle (机场巴士; Jīchǎng Bāshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ) runs from the corner of Gulou Jie and Jiefang Lu (¥40, two hours, half-hourly, 5.10am to 6.40pm).
Bus
Buses leave from the main long-distance bus station (开封长途汽车中心站; Kāifēng chángtú qìchē zhōngxīnzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ), opposite the train station:
AĀnyáng ¥63, four hours, half-hourly
ALuòyáng ¥60, three hours, hourly
AXīnxiāng ¥29.50, three hours, hourly
AZhèngzhōu ¥7, 1¾ hours, every 15 minutes
Buses also run from the west long-distance bus station (开封长途汽车西站; Kāifēng chángtú qìchē xīzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ):
ADēngfēng ¥42, 3¼ hours, one daily (9.30am)
ALuòyáng ¥63, three hours, two daily (8.50am and 2pm)
AXīnxiāng ¥29.50, three hours, six daily
AZhèngzhōu ¥7, 1¾ hours, every 15 minutes
AZhūxiān Zhèn ¥6, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes
Note that almost all buses to Zhèngzhōu terminate at its east train station; to get into town either take the metro or the transfer bus running between the two train stations.
Train
Kāifēng's train station is located in the south of town, around 1km beyond the city walls. You can buy tickets at the railway ticket office. Rail options – and tickets – from Kāifēng are limited; your options are much better leaving from Zhèngzhōu.
A new Zhèngzhōu–Kāifēng intercity train was nearing completion at the time of research. Most trains leave from the Zhèngzhōu east train station and will eventually terminate at the Kāifēng station, but so far only go to the Songcheng Lu station, a ¥20 cab ride from Kāifēng.
ABěijīng West Hard sleeper ¥195, 12 hours, two daily
ALuòyáng Hard seat ¥30, 2½ hours, eight daily (few tickets available)
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo D train 2nd/1st class ¥232/371, six to seven hours, three daily
AXī’ān Seat/sleeper ¥81/163, eight hours, three morning trains (few tickets available)
AZhèngzhōu East ¥18 to ¥22, 30 minutes, frequent service
8Getting Around
Zhongshan Lu is a good place to catch buses (¥1) to most sights. Taxis (flag fall ¥5, pollution tax ¥1) are the best way to get about; a journey from the train station to Zhongshan Lu should cost around ¥7.
Avoid pedicabs as they frequently rip off tourists.
Zhūxiān Zhèn 朱仙镇
%0371 / Pop 210,000
Zhūxiān Zhèn (朱仙镇), where the 1000-year-old craft of woodblock printing (木板年画; mùbǎn niánhuà) is still practised, is known as one of China’s four ‘ancient’ towns: the other three are Hànkǒu (trade), Jǐngdézhèn (porcelain) and Fóshān (silk). An easy day trip from Kāifēng, the woodblock prints here are a sure highlight for anyone interested in traditional Chinese arts and crafts.
1Sights
Zhūxiān MosqueMOSQUE
(朱仙清真寺, Zhūxiān Qīngzhēn Sì )F
Originally founded in the Northern Song dynasty, this mosque is housed in a traditional Chinese temple compound with a pretty rose garden. Examine the elaborately carved lintels and the examples of Chinese/Arabic calligraphy. It's a pleasant walk, 700m south of Zhūxiān's main road along a wide stone path.
Guānyǔ TempleTEMPLE
(关羽庙, Guānyǔ Miào ¥10; h8am-5pm)
Dedicated to Guandi, the god of war and protection (among other things), this temple was originally built during the Ming dynasty (then dedicated to the god of wealth); the present structure dates back to 1708. Consisting of a single hall, there is not much to see here besides the building.
Yuè Feī TempleTEMPLE
(岳飞庙, Yuè Fēi Miào ¥30; h8.30am-6.30pm)
Dedicated to the Southern Song military hero Yuè Feī, this temple was first founded in 1478. Although the hall interiors are largely without interest, there are some old stelae in the courtyard, carried by weathered stone bìxǐ (碧玺; mythical tortoise-like dragons).
4Sleeping & Eating
As it's an easy day trip from Kāifēng, there is no need to spend the night in Zhūxiān.
Look for freshly baked naan (flat bread; ¥1.50), sold by Muslim vendors in the street.
7Shopping
Yǐnshì Lǎo TiānchéngARTS & CRAFTS
(尹氏老天成 %0371 2671 2924)
The artist/owner of this woodblock printing workshop, Mr Yin (尹), is a fifth-generation artisan whose family has been in business for more than 200 years. A beautifully bound book of prints, with English explanations, housed in a wooden presentation box costs ¥200 (but if you’re nice, he'll knock ¥20 off the price). Located 100m east of the Yuè Feī Temple.
8Getting There & Away
Head to Kāifēng's west bus station, from where buses (¥6, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes) run all the way to Zhūxiān. The last bus from Zhūxiān leaves at 5.50pm. The driver can let you off at the mosque, or you can get off at a busy thoroughfare closer to the centre of town.