Guǎngdōng

Pop 93 million

Why Go?

Guǎngdōng’s unique culture and natural beauty fly under the radar and have yet to be discovered by many travellers, so you may have a plethora of sublime sights (not to mention great dim sum) all to yourself.

Northern Guǎngdōng (广东) is home to some wild and wondrous landscapes. In the blue pine forests of Nánlǐng, the music of waterfalls and windswept trees boomerangs in your direction. If it’s Unesco-crowned heritage you’re after, Kāipíng’s flamboyant watchtowers and the stylised poses of Cantonese opera will leave you riveted. What's all the fuss about Hakka and Chiuchow cultures? Well, find out in Méizhōu and Cháozhōu.

Historically Guǎngdōng was the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road and the birthplace of revolution. On the scenic byways of the Pearl River delta, you’ll uncover the glory of China’s revolutionary past. While on the surf-beaten beaches of Hǎilíng Island, an ancient shipwreck and its treasures await.

When to Go

AApr–Jun Verdant paddy fields against the built wonders of Kāipíng and Méizhōu.

AJul–Sep Blue pines and stained-glass windows offer respite from summer.

AOct–Dec The typhoons and heat are gone; this is the best time to visit.

Best Places to Eat

A Guăngzhōu Restaurant

A Zhèng’s Private Kitchen

A Qìngyún Vegetarian Restaurant

A Dàbù Handmade Noodles

A Pànxī Restaurant

Best Places to Sleep

A Garden Hotel

A Shēnzhèn Loft Youth Hostel

A Zàiyáng Inn

Guǎngdōng Highlights

1 Kāipíng Climbing dramatic Unesco-crowned watchtowers.

2 Méizhōu Being awed by the crouching dragons and flying saucers of Hakka architecture.

3 Fóshān Visiting the hometown of two martial-arts legends.

4 Guǎngjǐ Bridge Crossing the majestic passageway in Cháozhōu with its 18 boats and 24 piers.

5 Guǎngzhōu Lunching in a garden-restaurant while listening to an operatic aria.

6 Cháyáng Being mesmerised by the labyrinthine streets and storied mansions of the old town.

7 Nánlǐng National Forest Park Falling asleep to the whispered symphony of an ancient forest after a day's hike.

8 Yángjiāng Visiting silken beaches and an 800-year-old shipwreck.

History

Guǎngdōng has had contact with the outside world for nearly two millennia. Among the first outsiders to arrive were the Romans, who appeared in the 2nd century AD. By the Tang dynasty (AD 618–907), a sizeable trade with the Middle East and Southeast Asia had developed.

The first Europeans to settle here were the Portuguese in 1557, followed by the Jesuits who established themselves in Zhàoqìng. The British came along in the 17th century and by 1685 merchant ships from the East India Company were calling at Guǎngzhōu. In 1757 an imperial edict gave the cohong, a local merchants’ guild, a monopoly on China’s trade with foreigners, who were restricted to Shāmiàn Island. Trade remained in China’s favour until 1773, when the British shifted the balance by unloading 1000 chests of Bengal opium in Guǎngzhōu. Addiction spread in China like wildfire, eventually leading to the Opium Wars.

In the 19th century Guǎngdōng was a hotbed of reform and revolt. Among the political elites who sowed revolutionary ideas here was Sun Yatsen, who later became the first president of the Republic of China.

The 20th century saw Guǎngdōng serve as the headquarters of both the Nationalist and Communist Parties, and endure great suffering during the Cultural Revolution. After the implementation of the ‘open door’ policy in 1978, it became the first province to embrace capitalism. The province’s continued economic success has made it a leading export centre for consumer goods.

Language

The vast majority of the people of Guǎngdōng speak Cantonese, a dialect distinct from Mandarin. Though it enjoys a less exalted status than the national dialect, Cantonese is older and better suited than Mandarin for the reading of classical poetry, according to many scholars.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Airports in Zhūhǎi, Méizhōu and Cháozhōu bring every major city within a three-hour flight of the sights.

Báiyún International Airport In Guǎngzhōu, has frequent flights to major cities in China including Guìlín, Shànghǎi and Běijīng; also numerous international destinations.

Shēnzhèn Airport (深圳宝安国际机场; Shēnzhèn Băoān Guójì Jīchǎng %0755 2345 6789; eng.szairport.com) Flights to most major destinations around China, as well as international flights.

Land

Long-distance buses are the transportation with the most frequent departures between major areas in Guǎngdōng.

High-speed rail connects Guǎngdōng to its provincial neighbours Guǎngxī, Húnán, Jiāngxī and Fújiàn.

The fastest trains on the northeast–southwest axis head for Nánchāng (four hours), Wŭhàn (four hours), Xī’ān (nine hours) and Běijīng (10 hours). A well-developed network of convenient, older rail lines and expressways span the entire province. Metro and light rail in Guǎngzhōu, Shēnzhèn, Zhūhǎi and Fóshān are connected to major and high-speed train stations.

Guǎngzhōu 广州

%020 / Pop 12 million

Guǎngzhōu, once better known to Westerners as Canton, is China’s busiest transport and trade hub and the third-largest city in the country. A giant metropolis, Guǎngzhōu is home to both gleaming towers and leafy alleys, and its history as a strategic trade port to the South China Sea has afforded it a colonial background and culturally diverse population that combine to give Guǎngzhōu a cosmopolitan flair. Additionally, the China Import and Export Fair (more commonly known as the Canton Fair) – China's largest trade fair – sees thousands of international visitors flocking to Guǎngzhōu twice a year. And its proximity to Hong Kong means it is one of the most well-connected cities in China.

History

Guǎngzhōu’s history is one dominated by trade and revolution. Since the Tang dynasty, it had been China’s most important southern port and the starting point for the Maritime Silk Road, a trade route to the West. It became a trading post for the Portuguese in the 16th century, and later for the British.

After the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911, the city was a stronghold of the republican forces led by Sun Yatsen and, subsequently, a centre of activity also of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) led by Mao Zedong.

During the post-1949 years of China’s self-imposed isolation, the Canton Trade Fair was the only platform on which China did business with the West.

In 2010 Guǎngzhōu held the Asian Games, resulting in major expansion of the city’s transport network.

Guǎngzhōu

1Top Sights

1Chen Clan Ancestral HallB4

2Mausoleum of the Nányuè KingD3

3Shāmiàn IslandG1

1Sights

Ancestral Home of Bruce LeeA6

4Bāhé AcademyA6

5Church of Our Lady of LourdesH1

6DōngshānH5

7Five Rams StatueD3

8Guāngxiào TempleC4

9Guǎngzhōu Art GalleryE3

10Guǎngzhōu Big Buddha TempleE5

11Guǎngzhōu City MuseumD3

12Luányú TángA6

13Qīngpíng Chinese Medicine MarketF1

14Temple of the Six Banyan TreesD4

15Yuèxiù ParkD3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

16Guǎngzhōu Star Cruises CompanyE6

17Shāmiàn Traditional Chinese Medical CentreF1

4Sleeping

187 Days Inn Guangzhou Shimao CenterG4

19Garden HotelG3

20Guǎngdōng Victory HotelG1

21Guǎngzhōu Youth HostelG1

Koala's HomeE5

22Lazy GagaC5

5Eating

Big Buddha Temple VegetarianE5

23Bǐngshèng RestaurantG7

24Chén TiānjìB6

25Guăngzhōu RestaurantB6

26Huìfú VegetarianD5

27Pànxī RestaurantA5

28Tiger PrawnE5

29Wilber'sH4

6Drinking & Nightlife

30Kuí YuánH5

31Shāmiàn ClubhouseH1

7Shopping

32Shàngxiàjiǔ Pedestrian StreetC6

33Xīguān Antique StreetA5

8Information

American Express GuǎngzhōuF3

34Canadian ConsulateD3

35CanAm International Medical CentreG3

China Travel ServiceE6

36French ConsulateF3

37Guǎngzhōu First Municipal People's HospitalC4

New Zealand ConsulateD3

38Tourist Information CentreC5

39Tourist OfficeE6

UK ConsulateF3

Transport

40China Southern AirlinesD2

41Guǎngdōng Long-Distance Bus StationC2

42Guǎngzhōu Main Train StationC1

43Hotel Landmark Canton buses to Hong Kong & MacauE6

44Liúhuā Bus StationC2

45Malaysia, Thai International, United & Vietnam AirlinesG3

46Thai Airways InternationalG3

1Sights

Zhūjiāng Xīnchéng (Zhūjiāng New Town)

New Guǎngdōng MuseumMUSEUM

(广东省博物馆新馆; Guǎngdōngshěng Bówùguǎn Xínguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3804 6886; www.gdmuseum.com; 2 Zhujiang Donglu, Zhūjiāng New Town; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; c; mLine 3, Zhūjiāng Xīnchéng, exit B1)F

This ultramodern museum has an extensive collection illuminating the human and natural history of Guǎngdōng, as well as Cantonese art, literature and architecture. English explanations are unfortunately limited to brief leaflets, but there are plenty of self-evident visual treats for kids, including dinosaur fossils and model whales. Inspired by the Chinese lacquer box, the museum’s appearance is a striking contrast against the curvilinear design of the Guǎngzhōu Opera House further to the west. ID required for entry.

Guǎngzhōu Opera HouseNOTABLE BUILDING

(广州大剧院; Guǎngzhōu Dàjùyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3839 2666, tour bookings 020 3839 9847; http://guangzhouoperahouse.org; 1 Zhujiang Xilu; ¥30, tours in English per person ¥200; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun, tours 10am, 11am, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm; mLine 3, Zhūjiāng Xīnchéng, exit B1)

Authored by architect Zaha Hadid, southern China's biggest performance venue has transformed the area with its other-worldly appearance. With futuristic glass panels knitted together to form subtle curves, it's been described as pebbles on the bed of the Pearl River. To enter, you have to join one of five 45-minute daily tours. Tours in English require booking a day in advance.

Hǎizhū District

Memorial Hall of the Lǐngnán School of PaintingMUSEUM

(岭南画派纪念馆; Lǐngnán Huàpài Jìniànguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8401 7167; www.lingnans.org; 257 Changgang Donglu; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; mXiǎogǎng, exit A)F

This small but excellent museum on the leafy campus of the Guǎngzhōu Academy of Fine Arts (广州美术学院; Guǎngzhōu Měishù Xuéyuàn) pays tribute to the founders of the Lǐngnán school of painting, such as Gao Jianfu, and shows the colourful ink and brush works of contemporary artists versed in the Lǐngnán style.

Lìwān District

oChen Clan Ancestral HallHISTORIC SITE

(陈家祠; Chénjiā Cí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8181 4559; 34 Enlong Li, Zhongshan Qilu; ¥10; h8.30am-5pm; mLine 1, Chénjiācí, exit D)

An all-in-one ancestral shrine, Confucian school and ‘chamber of commerce’ for the Chen clan, this compound was built in 1894 by the residents of 72 villages in Guǎngdōng, where the Chen lineage is predominant. There are 19 buildings in the traditional Lǐngnán style, all featuring exquisite carvings, statues and paintings, and decorated with ornate scrollwork throughout.

Islands

oShāmiàn IslandHISTORIC SITE

(沙面岛; Shāmiàn Dǎo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mLines 1 & 6, Huángshā)

To the southwest of Guǎngzhōu is the dappled oasis of Shāmiàn Island. It was acquired as a foreign concession in 1859 after the two Opium Wars. Shamian Dajie, the main boulevard, is a gentle stretch of gardens dotted by old houses, cafes and galleries. The Church of Our Lady of Lourdes (天主教露德圣母堂, Tiānzhǔjiào Lùdé Shèngmǔ Táng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 14 Shamian Dajie; h8am-6pm; mLine 1, Huangsha), built by the French in 1892, is on the eastern end. Shāmiàn is so picturesque that you're sure to spot photo shoots for online clothing stores on the streets.

Guǎngdōng Museum of ArtMUSEUM

(广东美术馆; Guǎngdōng Měishùguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8735 1468; www.gdmoa.org; 38 Yanyu Lu; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; g89, 194, 131A)F

At the southern end of Èrshā Island (Èrshā Dǎo), this worthy enormous museum showcases the works of important Cantonese artists and has been the site of the Guǎngzhōu Triennale.

East Guǎngzhōu

1Sights

Guǎngzhōu Opera HouseB6

1New Guǎngdōng MuseumB6

4Sleeping

2Westin GuǎngzhōuB2

5Eating

3Social&CoA6

3Entertainment

4191 SpaceA5

5Guǎngzhōu Opera HouseB6

Yuèxiù District

oMausoleum of the Nányuè KingMAUSOLEUM

(南越王墓; Nányuèwáng Mù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3618 2920; www.gznywmuseum.org/nanyuewang/index.html; 867 Jiefang Beilu; ¥12; h9am-4.45pm; mLine 2, Yuèxiù Park, exit E)

This superb mausoleum from the 2000-year-old Nányuè kingdom is one of China’s best museums. It houses the tomb of Zhao Mo, second king of Nányuè, who was sent south by the emperor in 214 BC to quell unrest and established a sovereign state with Guǎngzhōu as its capital. Don’t miss Zhao Mo’s jade burial suit – the precious stone was thought to preserve the body.

DōngshānHISTORIC SITE

(东山区; Dōngshān Qū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mLine 1, Dōngshān Kǒu, exit E)

Tree-lined Xinhepu Lu (新河浦路), Xuguyuan Lu (恤孤院路) and Peizheng Lu (培正路) in the historic Dōngshān area offer a welcome respite from the city. There are schools and churches raised by American missionaries in the 1900s, and exquisite villas commissioned by overseas Chinese and military bigwigs of the Kuomintang. Take the metro to Dōngshān Kǒu station: from exit E, walk left along Shuqian Lu until Miaoqianzhi Jie, then left again till Xuguyuan Lu.

Yuèxiù ParkPARK

(越秀公园; Yuèxiù Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8666 1950; 988 Jiefang Beilu; h6am-9pm; mLine 2, Yuèxiù Park)

A statue of the symbol of Guǎngzhōu – the Five Rams (五羊石像, Wǔ Yáng Shíxiàng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yuèxiù Park; h6am-9pm; mLine 2, Yuexiu Park) (五羊) that supposedly carried the five immortals who founded the city – stands guard at this park. On a hilltop is red-walled Zhènhǎi Tower (镇海楼; Zhènhǎi Lóu), built in 1380 as a watchtower to keep out pirates. The tower is home to the excellent Guǎngzhōu City Museum, which traces the city’s history from the Neolithic period. To the east is Guǎngzhōu Art Gallery (广州美术馆, Guǎngzhōu Měishùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yuèxiù Park; h9am-5pm; mLine 2, Yuexiu Park), which has displays on the city's trading history with the West.

Guǎngzhōu City MuseumMUSEUM

(广州市博物馆; Guǎngzhōushì Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8355 0627; www.guangzhoumuseum.cn/en/main.asp; 2 Zhujiang Donglu; ¥10; h9am-5pm; mLine 2, Yuèxiù Park)

Housed inside the red-walled, five-storey Zhènhǎi Tower (Zhènhǎi Lóu) in Yuèxiù Park, the museum has an excellent collection of exhibits that trace the history of Guǎngzhōu from the Neolithic period. There are remnants of the ancient city wall.

Temple of the Six Banyan TreesBUDDHIST SITE

(六榕寺; Liùróng Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8339 2843; 87 Liurong Lu; ¥5, pagoda ¥10; h8am-5pm; g56)

This Buddhist temple was built in AD 537 to enshrine Buddhist relics brought over from India and placed in the octagonal Decorated Pagoda (Huā Tǎ). The temple was given its current name by the exiled poet Su Dongbo in 1099, who waxed lyrical over the (now gone) banyans in the courtyard. You can see the characters 'six banyans' (liùróng) that he wrote above the gates.

Guāngxiào TempleBUDDHIST SITE

(光孝寺; Guāngxiào Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8108 7421; 109 Guangxiao Lu; ¥5; h6am-5.30pm; mLine 1, Xīmén Kǒu, exit C)

‘Bright Filial Piety Temple’ is the oldest temple in Guǎngzhōu, dating back to the 4th century. By the time of the Tang dynasty it was well established as a centre of Buddhist learning in southern China. Bodhidharma, the founder of Zen Buddhism, taught here. Most of the current buildings date from the 19th century, including a main hall with double eaves and a 10m-tall Buddha statue.

Guǎngzhōu Big Buddha TempleTEMPLE

(大佛古寺; Dàfógǔsì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21 Huifu Lu, cnr Beijing Lu; mLine 6, Běijīng Lù)

Hidden behind bustling Beijing Lu and spanning a whole block is this calm complex featuring three 10-tonne bronze Buddha statues (representing the past, present and future). Equally gigantic are the 350-year-old cinnamon and avocado trees donated by (modern-day) Vietnam and decorated in red lanterns. The temple was built in the Nanhan period (907–971), with the latest iteration from 1649, and renovations in 2016. By night, you might hear monks chanting, and the complex is lit up spectacularly neon-like.

Qīngpíng Chinese Medicine MarketMARKET

(清平市场; Qīngpíng Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Liu'ersan Lu; h9am-9pm; mLine 1, Huángshā, exit E)

In this busy market you’ll see and definitely smell barrels of dried seahorses, ginseng, goji berries, enamel-like black mushrooms, antler horns and ingredients you can’t identify at all. A sensory experience even if you don't buy a thing from the small stores. A short walk from Shāmiàn Island.

ENNING ROAD

If you like history, a stroll down century-old Enning Road (恩宁路; Ēnning Lù) can be rewarding. Located in the area known traditionally as Xīguān (西关), the western gate and commercial hub of old Canton, it retains a few cultural relics such as teahouses and antique trinket stores, despite earnest urban renewal efforts.

The highlight is Bāhé Academy (八和会馆, Bāhé Huìguăn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 117 Enning Lu; mLine 1, Changshou Lu, exit D2), a guild hall for Cantonese opera practitioners. The original academy opened in 1889 to provide lodging, schooling, medical and funeral services to Cantonese opera troupes. It’s now a gathering place for retired artists. It is not open to the public, but you can see the original 3m-tall wooden door from 1889. The only item that survived a bombing by the Japanese in 1937, it was used during the Great Leap Forward as a parking plank for 4-tonne vehicles, and clearly survived that as well.

Turn right as you leave the academy and walk for about a block before making another right into a lane called Yongqing Daxiang (永庆大巷). Turn left into the second smaller lane. The second-last unit here is Luányú Táng (銮舆堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yongqing Daxiang, 永庆大巷 h10am-3pm; mLine 1, Changshou Lu, exit D2), a 200-year-old union for actors playing martial and acrobatic roles in Cantonese opera. The union still gives martial-arts training for the stage to children, and its members come for operatic ‘jamming’ sessions on the 2nd floor. Visitors may be let in at their discretion. Otherwise there is little to see.

Interestingly, the last unit in this lane used to be the ancestral home of Bruce Lee ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yongqing Daxiang, 永庆大巷 mLine 1, Changshou Lu, exit D2), the kung fu (gōngfū) icon, whose father Lǐ Hǎiquán (李海泉) was – you guessed it – a Cantonese opera actor and a member of that union. There’s now a wall in its place, but if you retrace your steps out of the alleys, turn right and head up Ēnnìng Lù, you’ll pass the gates of a school. In the right corner, just past the entrance, you can barely see the shuttered house.

Enning Road is easily walkable from metro station Chángshòu Lù or from Shāmiàn Island.

2Activities

Shāmiàn Traditional Chinese Medical CentreMASSAGE

(沙面国医馆; Shāmiàn Guóyīguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8121 8383; 85-87 Shamian Beijie, 沙面北街85-87号 h11am-1.30am; mLines 1 & 6, Huángshā)

Shāmiàn Traditional Chinese Medical Centre, at the western end of Shāmiàn Island, offers body massages for ¥238 per hour. English is spoken for consultations by a Chinese doctor, though not for complicated issues. Appointments accepted.

Guǎngzhōu Star Cruises CompanyBOATING

(广州之星游轮有限公司; Guăngzhōu Zhīxīng Yóulún Yŏuxiàn Gōngsī MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8333 2222; cruises ¥48-88; h6-11pm; mLine 6, Hǎizhū Square)

The Guǎngzhōu Star Cruises Company has eight two-hour evening cruises on the Pearl River. Boats leave from the Tiānzì Pier (Tiānzì Mǎtou; Beijing Lu), just east of Hǎizhū Bridge (Hǎizhū Qiáo; catch metro line 6 to Hǎizhū Square station), and head down the river as far as Èrshā Island (Èrshā Dǎo) before turning back.

zFestivals & Events

Birthday of the Fire GodCULTURAL

(h28th day of the 9th lunar month)

Every year on the birthday of the Fire God, usually around November, Bāhé Academy guild hall throws a banquet for the opera industry. From early morning, you’ll hear gongs and drums, and ceremonies are performed at Luányú Táng. Hundreds show up for the day-long feasting that takes place both indoors and on the pavement.

Canton Trade FairTRADE FAIR

(中国出口商品交易会, Zhōngguó Chūkǒu Shāngpǐn Jiāoyì Huì %020 2608 8888; www.cantonfair.org.cn)

The 15-day Canton Trade Fair is held twice yearly, usually in April and October, on Pázhōu Island south of the Pearl River in Guǎngzhōu.

4Sleeping

Guǎngzhōu has few good budget and lower-midrange choices, but there are plenty of excellent top-end and upper-midrange hotels. During the Canton Trade Fair (usually in April and October), prices go up. All hotels offer wi-fi and air-conditioning.

In Guǎngzhōu, Shāmiàn Island is by far the quietest and most attractive area to stay in.

Koala's HomeHOSTEL$

(广州考拉青年旅舍; Kǎolā Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8319 0988; 505 Huifu Donglu, 3rd fl; 惠福东路505号三楼 d & tw ¥188-268; mLines 1 & 2, Gōngyuán Qián, exit D)

An excellent, clean hostel with cheery furnishings, movies on demand and spotless modern bathrooms. From the inward-facing rooms, there isn't a peep from nearby bustling Beijing Lu. There's little social interaction, though some staff speak English and there are plans to build a rooftop bar. Access by lift inside an egg-tart shop in an alley opposite Tiger Prawn restaurant.

Lazy GagaHOSTEL$

(春田家家; Chūntián Jiājiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8192 3232; www.gagahostel.com; 215 Haizhu Zhonglu; 海珠中路215号 dm ¥55-65, d & tw ¥178, tr ¥240; aiW; mLine 1, Xīmén Kŏu, exit B)

Only five minutes' walk from the metro, Lazy Gaga has 45 cheerful rooms and homey communal areas enlivened by colourful walls and furniture. Guests can have free use of the spotless kitchen and a cheap laundry service; and the pleasant English-speaking staff are up for a chat when they're not busy. In-room lockers come thoughtfully embedded with chargers for mobile devices.

Guǎngzhōu Riverside International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(广州江畔国际青年旅舍; Guǎngzhōu Jiāngpàn Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè GOOGLE MAP ; %020 2239 2500; www.yhachina.com; 15 Changdi Jie; 长堤街15号 dm ¥65, s ¥140, d ¥185-288, tr ¥268; iW; mLine 1, Fāngcūn, exit B1)

Located in Fāngcūn next to a bar street, this YHA-affiliated hostel can feel chilly on cold nights but has spotless rooms and a welcoming vibe. Turn right from the metro exit and go through the back lane next to the hospital to reach tree-lined Luju Lu (陆居路). Turn left and walk towards the river, turn right and you'll see the hostel after five minutes.

Ferries depart frequently from Huángshā pier on Shāmiàn Island to Fāngcūn pier right in front of the hostel.

Guǎngzhōu Youth HostelHOTEL$$

(广东鹅潭宾馆; Guǎngdōng Étán Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8121 8298; 2 Shamian Sijie; 沙面四街2号 d ¥200-290, tr ¥300; i; mLines 1 & 6, Huángshā)

The English name remains, but the youth hostel has long gone. Dorms have been converted into huge, spotless rooms, making for great value if you want loads of space. The cheapest decent beds on Shāmiàn Island.

7 Days Inn Guǎngzhōu Shimao CenterHOTEL$$

(7天连锁酒店; Qītiān Liánsuǒ Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %/fax 0208364 4488; 32 Huale Lu, 华乐路32号 r ¥219-355; aiW; mLine 5, Táojīn)

This chain hotel is the cheapest decent option amid the five-star enclave in Yuèxiù (越秀) District. It's just south of the Garden Hotel.

oGarden HotelHOTEL$$$

(花园酒店; Huāyuán Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8333 8989; www.gardenhotel.com; 368 Huanshi Donglu; 环市东路368号 r/ste from ¥1128/2628; aiWs; mLine 5, Táojīn)

One of the most popular luxury hotels in Guǎngzhōu, with waterfalls and lovely gardens in the lobby and on the 4th floor. The modern rooms are just as classy, with Chinese design accents. Bookings are essential.

Westin GuǎngzhōuHOTEL$$$

(广州天誉威斯汀酒店; Guǎngzhōu Tiānyú Wēisītīng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 2886 6868; www.starwoodhotels.com; 6 Linhe Zhonglu, 林和中路6号 d/ste from ¥1279/2155; mLine 3, Línhé Xī)

The luxurious Westin is the best place to stay in Tiānhé, if not in Guǎngzhōu. Staff are very welcoming and efficient, rooms are spacious and sparkling, and the location, near the eastern train station, is terrific.

MulianBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(广州木莲庄酒店; Guăngzhōu Mùliánzhuāng Jiŭdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8353 8888; www.themulian.com; 715 Jinsui Lu; 金穗路715号 s/d/ste ¥448/688/1088; aW; mLine 5, Táncūn, exit D)

If you don't mind windowless rooms (which is 90% of the rooms here), the Mulian is perfect for a getaway – the soundproofing is seamless; the decor is exotically Thai; there are a host of gadgets to keep you entertained indoors; and there's free afternoon tea when you get hungry.

Guǎngdōng Victory HotelHOTEL$$$

(胜利宾馆; Shènglì Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8121 6688; www.vhotel.com; 53 & 54 Shamian Beijie; 沙面北街53 、54号 r from ¥928, tr ¥1280, ste ¥1380-3880; aiW; mLines 1 & 6, Huángshā)

There are two branches of the Victory Hotel on Shāmiàn Island: an older one at 54 Shamian Beijie (enter from 10 Shamian Sijie) and a newer wing – 胜利宾馆 (新楼) – at 53 Shamian Nanjie. Both offer decent value for money, especially as discounts of up to a third are available.

PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom.

$ less than ¥250

$$ ¥250–¥600

$$$ more than ¥600

The following price ranges refer to a main course.

$ less than ¥70

$$ ¥70–¥150

$$$ more than ¥150

5Eating

Guǎngzhōu is home to some excellent Cantonese restaurants. Dim sum (点心; diǎnxīn), or yum cha (饮茶; yǐnchá; tea drinking), may be the best-known form of Cantonese cuisine to foreigners, but in fact noodles, congee and desserts are equally popular locally.

oGuăngzhōu RestaurantDIM SUM$

(广州酒家; Guăngzhōu Jiŭjiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Wenchang Nanlu; 文昌南路2号 dim dum per dish ¥9-25; h7am-11pm; mLine 1, Chángshòu Lù)

Guăngzhōu's oldest restaurant is dedicated to serving well-made dim sum with an exquisite selection of teas (¥8 to ¥50 per person). Times may have moved on but this is the traditonal dim sum model. Tables and dining spaces are set around a beautiful interior garden in the atrium. Go early: by 8.30am all the tables with views are taken.

Huìfú VegetarianVEGETARIAN$

(惠福慈心素食; Huìfú Cíxīn Sùshí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8323 4326; 449 Huifu Donglu; 惠福东路449号 buffet ¥25; h11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm; Wv; mLines 1 & 2, Gōngyuán Qián, exit D)

Serve yourself a selection of extremely fresh vegetarian Cantonese dishes such as sweet-and-sour tofu, and red bean with lotus root. Sweet ginger and rice cake soups, and dumplings are also available. No menu or Chinese needed.

Tiger PrawnVIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8319 1277; www.tigerprawngz.com; 548 Huifu Donglu; 惠福东路548号 mains ¥21-108; h11am-10pm; mLine 6, Běijīng Lù)

The large queue (plan on 15 to 60 minutes) between 7pm and 9pm reflects how popular Vietnamese food has become in Guǎngzhōu. Tiger Prawn is the long-standing star for Southeast Asian food in the city, using the right herbs and spices in the pho (rice noodles in beef broth) and the lemongrass chicken. The Chinese and Thai dishes are also excellent. English and photo menu.

Chén TiānjìCANTONESE$

(陈添记 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8182 8774; 59 Baohua Lu, 宝华路59号 dishes ¥9-35; h9.30am-10.30pm; mLine 1, Chángshòu Lù, exit D2)

This old hole-in-the-wall serves three things – crunchy blanched fish skin (鱼皮; yúpí) tossed with peanuts and parsley; sampan congee (艇仔粥; tǐngzǎi zhōu); and rice-flour rolls (肠粉; chángfěn). Turn right from the metro exit, then turn into an alley; it’s the second eatery.

Big Buddha Temple VegetarianVEGETARIAN$

(大佛寺素食阁; Dàfógǔsì Sùshí Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huifu Lu, main hall, 2nd fl, cnr Beijing Lu; mains ¥15-148; h11am-8.30pm; Wv; mLine 6, Běijīng Lù)

On the 2nd floor of the main hall of the calm Big Buddha Temple, choose from an extensive menu of banquet-worthy vegetarian dishes in an elevated ancient-China-style restaurant. The focus is on mock meats to mimic traditional Cantonese dishes for catering to omnivore temple visitors. Photo and English menu.

oPànxī RestaurantDIM SUM$$

(泮溪酒家; Pànxī Jiǔjiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8172 1328; 151 Longjin Xilu, 龙津西路151号 dishes from ¥40; h7.30am-midnight; mLine 1, Chángshòu Lù)

Set in a majestic garden and embracing another one within its walls, Pànxī is the most representative of Guǎngzhōu‘s garden-restaurants. Corridors and courtyards are brought together to give the effect of ‘every step, a vista’ (一步一景). Elderly diners are known to get up and sing an operatic aria or two when the mood is right. You'll need to queue for a table after 8.30am.

Social&CoINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3804 9243; www.socialandco.com; 7 Huacheng Lu; 华成路7号 mains ¥60-140; h11.30am-2am; v; mLine 5, Zhūjiāng New Town)

The Australian owners of this casually cool cafe command some of the best international dishes in Guǎngzhōu. Highlights are banoffee pie, Portuguese-style chicken, pork belly with plum sauce and a drinks list that includes tea-infused cocktails (¥60). Lunch packages (salad, sandwich, soup; ¥50) are good value.

Wilber’sEUROPEAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3761 1101; www.wilber.com.cn; 62 Zhusigang Ermalu, 竹丝岗二马路72号 mains ¥68-280; h11am-4pm & 5-9pm; W; mLine 1, Dōngshān Kǒu)

Hidden on the edge of Yuèxiù District, gay-friendly Wilber’s gets top marks for cocktails and atmosphere, and the food isn't far behind. You can munch on cold cuts and mini burgers at the sleek bar, or opt for seafood risotto and pan-fried scallops in a set menu (¥350) in the ultramodern restaurant. Look for the restored colonial villa with whitewashed walls and patio.

Táng Lì YuánCANTONESE$$

(唐荔园 GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8181 8002; Lìwān Lake Park; 口荔湾湖公园内5号 mains ¥22-200; h7.30am-3pm & 5pm-3am; mLine 1, Huángshā)

This garden-restaurant, known for its roasted pigeon (金牌乳鸽; jīnpái rǔgē), is located inside Lìwān Lake Park (荔湾湖公园; Lìwān Hú Gōngyuán). A highlight are the tables on boats that you can reserve for dinner. They’re inspired by Zǐdòng Chuán (紫洞船), aka ‘drinking boats’ or ‘whore boats’, used in the Qing dynasty by Xīguān merchants to entertain with banquets, opera and women.

Each boat seats six. There’s a cover charge and a ‘seat fee’ of ¥150 and ¥20, respectively, per person. The restaurant sits at the junction of Huangsha Dadao (黄沙大道) and Ruyi Fang (如意坊).

Bǐngshèng RestaurantCANTONESE$$

(炳胜海鲜酒家; Bǐngshèng Hǎixiān Jiǔjiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3428 6910; 33 Dongxiao Lu; dishes from ¥48; h11am-midnight; g293, 886)

This exquisite restaurant surprises with every visit, and the price is right! Shùndé (a town south of Guǎngzhōu) cuisine's freshwater fish is the speciality here. The dòufuhuā zhēngxiègāo (豆腐花蒸蟹羔; bean curd with crab roe) and hǎilú cìshēn (海鲈剌身; sea bass sashimi) are outstandingly tasty. No English menu.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Guǎngzhōu’s party hub is Zhūjiāng Pátí (珠江琶醍), a strip of land by the river that is the former site of the massive Zhūjiāng Brewery. Converted facilities now throb with trendy bars and clubs. With traces of the brewery still visible, it’s the city’s most surreal (and boozy) party place. Upmarket Yánjiāng Lù Bar Street is also worth a visit.

oKuí YuánCAFE

(逵园 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8765 9746; 9 Xuguyuan Lu; 恤孤院路9号 h10am-midnight; W; mLine 1, Dōngshān Kŏu, exit F)

From its location inside the gorgeous Kuí Yuán building in the historic Dōngshān area, this cafe serves decent coffee and canapés during the day and morphs into a bar at night. Stylish, warm-toned seating areas occupy the rooms of the original residence. Built in 1922, the house is famous for its Western architectural features that include colonnaded verandahs and a portico.

Sun’sLOUNGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8977 9056; www.sunsgz.com; B25-26 Yuejiang Xilu; cover from ¥50; h7am-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; g779, 765 (final stop))

The best of the lot in Zhūjiāng 'Party Pier' (珠江琶醍), Sun’s lets you sip cocktails on couches by the river or dance to electronic music.

Shāmiàn ClubhouseBAR

(沙面会馆; Shāmiàn Huìguăn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shamian Dajie, 沙面大街 h11am-11pm; W; mLines 1 & 6, Huángshā)

The ‘Red Mansion’ (c 1907), once known as ‘Shāmiàn’s grandest mansion’, fuses features of British colonial architecture such as colonnades and louvre windows with the Lǐngnán fondness for skylights. It has a small, clubby bar with long teak flooring.

3Entertainment

o191 SpaceLIVE MUSIC

(191Space 音乐主题酒吧; 191 Space Yīnlè Zhǔtí Jiǔba MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8737 9375; www.191space.com; 191 Guangzhou Dadao Zhonglu; 广州大道中路191号 h8pm-2am; mLine 5, Wŭyángcūn, exit A)

Two steps from the metro exit, this is a throbbing dive that features live indie gigs from China and overseas every weekend.

Fei Live HouseLIVE MUSIC

(飞; Fēi Unit B4, 128 Yuancun Sihenglu, Redtory, 员村四横路128号 mLine 3, Yúncūn, exit B)

A live-music space with an awesome sound system and a focus on indie music, inside Redtory art village (红砖厂, Hóngzhuān Chǎng %020 8557 8470; www.redtory.com.cn; 128 Yuancun Sihenglu, 员村四横路128號 h6am-midnight; mLine 3, Yuncun, exit B).

Guǎngzhōu Opera HouseTHEATRE

(广州大剧院; Guǎngzhōu Dàjùyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3839 2888, 020 3839 2666; http://gzdjy.org; 1 Zhujiang Xilu, 珠江西路1号 h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; mLine 3, Zhūjiāng Xīnchéng, exit B1)

Guǎngdōng’s premier performance venue. Local versions of international theatre productions, such as War Horse, are staged here.

7Shopping

Xīguān Antique StreetANTIQUES

(西关古玩城; Xīguān Gŭwánchéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lizhiwan Lu, 荔枝湾路 h9am-8pm; mLine 5, Zhōngshān Bā)

This street sells everything from ceramic teapots to Tibetan rugs. Even if you’re not in the mood to load up your pack with ceramic vases, it’s a wonderful place in which to browse. Note that most artefacts here are known to be fakes.

Shàngxiàjiǔ Pedestrian StreetCLOTHING

(上下九步行街; Shàngxiàjiǔ Bùxíng Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-late; mLine 1, Chángshòu Lù or Huángshā)

Literally 'Up Down Nine Street', this pedestrianised shopping area in one of the oldest parts of the city, where the buildings retain elements of both Western and Chinese architecture, is a good place to look for discounted clothing (and street food) and is very busy with other young shoppers.

8Information

Emergency

Ambulance	120
Fire	119
Police	110

Internet Access

Most hotels provide free broadband internet access. Free wi-fi is available at all Guǎngdōng branches of Starbucks, Fairwood (大快活; Dàkuàihuó) and Cafe de Coral (大家乐; Dàjiālè), but some require a local phone number for access.

Medical Services

CanAm International Medical CentreHOSPITAL

(加美国际医疗中心; Jiāměi Guójì Yīliáo Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8386 6988; www.canamhealthcare.com; 5th fl, Garden Tower, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Donglu; h24hr)

Has English-speaking doctors 24 hours a day, but you’ll need to call ahead.

Guǎngzhōu First Municipal People’s HospitalHOSPITAL

(广州第一人民医院; Guǎngzhōu Dìyī Rénmín Yīyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8104 8888; www.gzhosp.cn; 1 Panfu Lu)

Medical clinic for foreigners on the 1st floor.

Money

ATMs are available – most 24 hours – throughout Guǎngzhōu.

American Express Guǎngzhōu (美国运通广州; Měiguó Yùntōng Guǎngzhōu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8331 1611; fax 020 8331 1616; Room 1004, Main Tower, Guǎngdōng International Hotel, 339 Huanshi Donglu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Cashes and sells Amex travellers cheques.

Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8334 0998; 686 Renmin Beilu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) Most branches change travellers cheques.

Post

China PostPOST

(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 151 Huanshi Xilu; h8am-8pm)

Located next to the train station.

Public Security Bureau

PSBPOLICE

(公安局; Gōng'ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8311 5800, 020 8311 5808; 155 Jiefang Nanlu; h8-11.30am & 2.30-5pm)

Helps with all 'aliens' needs. Between Dade Lu and Darin Lu.

Telephone

China TelecomTELEPHONE

(中国电信; Zhōngguó Diànxìn GOOGLE MAP ; %10000; 196 Huanshi Xilu; h9am-6pm)

Its main branch is opposite the train station (eastern side of Renmin Beilu).

Tourist Information

Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitgz.com; 325 Zhongshan Liulu; h9am-6pm)

There are 19 tourist information centres, including at 325 Zhongshan Liulu, the airport and the train station.

Travel Agencies

Most hotels offer travel services that, for a small charge, can help you book tickets and tours.

China Travel Service (CTS; 中国旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8333 6888; 8 Qiaoguang Lu; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Located next to Hotel Landmark Canton (华厦大酒店; Huáxià Dàjiǔdiàn).

Useful Websites

ADelta Bridges Guǎngzhōu (www.deltabridges.com/users/guangzhou) Listings of events around town.

AGuǎngzhōu Stuff (www.gzstuff.com) Entertainment listings, forums and classifieds.

ALife of Guǎngzhōu (www.lifeofguangzhou.com) Yellow Pages for visitors and expats.

ALonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/china/guangdong/guangzhou) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Visas

The 72-Hour Visa-Free Transit policy allows passport holders of many countries a stopover in Guǎngzhōu without arranging a visa before arrival.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Báiyún International Airport (白云国际机场, CAN, Báiyún Guójì Jīchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3606 6999; www.gbiac.net) is about 28km north of the city.

The major airline serving Guǎngzhōu, China Southern Airlines (中国南方航空; Zhōngguó Nánfāng Hángkōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %95539; www.csair.com; 181 Huanshi Xilu; h24hr), has an office southeast of Guǎngzhōu Railway Station. The airline runs frequent flights to major cities in China including Guìlín, Shànghǎi and Běijīng, as well as numerous international destinations.

Bus

Guǎngzhōu has many long-distance bus stations with services to destinations in Guǎngdōng, southern Fújiàn, eastern Guǎngxī and further afield. There are frequent buses to Fóshān (¥21, 45 minutes), Kāipíng (¥58, two hours), Shēnzhèn (¥65, two hours) and Zhūhǎi (¥60, two hours) from Tiānhé bus station, Fāngcūn bus station (from metro Kēngkǒu), Guǎngzhōu East coach terminal and Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station.

Other destinations:

ACháozhōu ¥170 to ¥180, six hours, hourly from Tiānhé station

AGuìlín ¥170, 10 hours, eight daily from Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station (8.30am to 11.30pm)

AHǎikǒu ¥260 to ¥285, 12 hours, seven daily from Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station

ANánníng ¥185, 10 hours, five daily from Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station

AQīngyuǎn ¥30 to ¥40, 1½ hours, every half-hour from Tiānhé station

AShàntóu ¥180 to ¥200, five hours, every 30 minutes from Tiānhé station

ASháoguān ¥75 to ¥85, four hours, every 45 minutes from Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station

AXiàmén ¥230, nine hours, every 45 minutes from Tiānhé station

AZhàoqìng ¥35 to ¥50, 1½ hours, every 15 minutes from Tiānhé station

Deluxe buses ply the Guǎngzhōu–Shēnzhèn freeway to Hong Kong, which is the easiest route to travel. Buses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (from ¥110, 3½ hours) to Hong Kong and its airport leave from Hotel Landmark Canton near Hǎizhū Square station or China Hotel near Yuèxiù Park station every 30 minutes.

Buses through Zhūhǎi to Macau (¥80, every hour, 2½ hours) leave frequently from Tiānhé station (7.40am to 8pm).

Tiānhé Bus Station (天河客运站; Tiānhé Kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3709 0062; www.tianhebus.com; Yanling Lu; 燕玲路 mLines 3 & 6, Tiānhé Coach Terminal) Most frequent departures to destinations in Guǎngdōng; accessible by metro.

Fāngcūn Bus Station (芳村客运站, Fāngcūn Kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3708 5070; www.fangcunbus.com; Huadi Dadao, 华地大道 mLine 1, Kengkou) Accessible by metro (Kēngkǒu station).

Guǎngzhōu East Coach Terminal (广州东站汽车客运站; Guǎngzhōu Dōngzhàn Kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; Linhe Xilu; mLines 1 & 3, Guǎngzhōu East Railway Station) Behind Guǎngzhōu East Railway Station. Good for destinations within Guǎngdōng; departures aren’t as frequent as from other stations.

Guǎngdōng Long-Distance Bus Station (广东省汽车客运站; Guǎngdōng Shěng Qìchē Kèyùnzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huanshi Xilu; mLines 2 & 5, Guǎngzhōu Railway Station) West of the Guǎngzhōu Railway Station. There's a smaller long-distance bus station (广州市气车客运站; Guǎngzhōu Shì Qìchēzhàn) over the footbridge.

Liúhuā Bus Station (流花车站, Liúhuā Chēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 188 Huanshi Xilu; 环市西路188号 ) Opposite Guǎngzhōu Main Train Station. Destinations include Cháozhōu and Shàntóu.

Train

Guǎngzhōu’s three major train stations serve destinations all over China. China Travel Service, next to Hotel Landmark Canton, books train tickets up to five days in advance for ¥10 to ¥20. There are similar fees for booking from the Ctrip app, with tickets paid for by card and picked up from a station.

From Guǎngzhōu Main Train Station (广州火车总站; Guǎngzhōu Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huanshi Xilu; mLines 2 & 5, Guǎngzhōu Railway Station):

ALhasa ¥919, 53 hours, one every two days (11.42pm)

ASháoguān ¥38, 2½ hours, frequent services

AZhàoqìng ¥17 to ¥71, two hours, 14 daily

High-speed trains leave from Guǎngzhōu South Railway Station (广州火车南站; Guǎngzhōu Nánzhàn Shibi, Pānyú) in Pānyú:

ABěijīng ¥709 to ¥862, eight to 11 hours, 10 daily

AChángshā ¥314, 2½ hours, frequent

AQīngyuǎn ¥40, 25 minutes, frequent

AShànghǎi ¥479 to ¥793, seven to 11½ hours, 10 daily

ASháoguān ¥105, 50 minutes, frequent

AShēnzhèn North Station ¥75, 45 minutes

AWǔhān ¥464, 4½ hours, frequent

Light rail goes to Zhūhǎi (¥34, one hour).

To get to Guǎngzhōu South Railway Station, take metro line 2 from the main train station (¥6, 34 minutes) or one of the South Station Express buses (南站快线; Nánzhàn Kuàixiàn) that leave from Tianhe Sports Centre metro station, Garden Hotel and Hotel Landmark Canton ( ¥14, 45 minutes).

From Guǎngzhōu East Railway Station (广州火车东站; Guǎngzhōu Dōngzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; mLines 1 & 3, Guǎngzhōu East Railway Station):

AShànghǎi ¥206 to ¥377, 16 hours, one daily (6.12pm)

The station is used mainly for bullet trains to Shēnzhèn (¥80, 1½ hours, every 15 minutes, 6.15am to 10.32pm) and a dozen direct trains to Hong Kong (¥184, HK$222, two hours, 8.19am to 9.32pm).

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Airport shuttle buses (¥17 to ¥32, 35 to 70 minutes, every 20 to 30 minutes, 5am to 11pm) leave from half a dozen locations, including the Garden Hotel and Tiānhé bus station. A taxi to/from the airport will cost about ¥150.

Metro line 2 links the airport’s south terminal (Airport South station; Jīchǎng Nán) and Guǎngzhōu East station. The ride takes 40 minutes (¥8, 6.10am to 11pm), or 70 minutes to Běijīng Lù station.

Bus

Guǎngzhōu has a large network of motor buses (¥1) and bus rapid transport (BRT; ¥2).

Ferry

Riding the Pearl River is a useful and overlooked way of getting around. It can sometimes avoid multiple metro line changes and costs only ¥2 for a DIY river tour. Ferry piers near sights include:

Dàshātóu Wharf (大沙头游船码头; Dàshātóu Yóuchuán Mǎtóu GOOGLE MAP ) Used by main river tour boats and next to Hǎizhū Square station.

Tiānzì Pier (天字码头; Tiānzì Mǎtou GOOGLE MAP ; Beijing Lu; 北京路 ferry one way ¥2; mLine 6, Beijing Lu) At the south end of the Beijing Lu shopping street, with ferries to Canton Tower

Xīdī Pier (西堤码头; Xīdī Mǎtou GOOGLE MAP ) Just east of Shāmiàn Island.

Metro

Guǎngzhōu has nine metro lines in full service, all with free maps available in English (beware of old maps still in circulation that omit Line 6). New lines are to be added and extended from 2017 onwards. Operating hours are approximately from 6.20am to 11.30pm and fares cost from ¥2 to ¥14.

Transit passes (羊城通; yáng chéng tōng) are available at metro stations from ¥70 (deposit ¥20 included). The deposit is refundable at designated stations, including Tiyu Xilu and Gōngyuán Qián. This pass can be used on all public transport, including in yellow taxis. There are also one-day (¥20) and three-day (¥50) metro passes. Both allow unlimited use within the specified period and do not require a deposit.

Taxi

Taxis are abundant but demand is high. Peak hours are from 8am to 9am, and around lunch and dinner. Yellow or red cabs are driven by local drivers; others by migrant drivers who may not know the city well. Flag fall is ¥10 for the first 2.5km; ¥2.6 for every additional kilometre, with a ¥1 fuel surcharge. App taxi services such as Uber (www.uber.com) have gained popularity and can offer a safe, convenient service, if your Chinese is up to it.

Around Guǎngzhōu

oYúyìn Mountain VillaGARDENS

(余荫山房; Yúyīn Shānfáng GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3482 2187; Náncūn, Pānyú; adult/child ¥18/9; h8am-6pm; mLine 3, Dàshí, exit A)

One of Guăngdōng's four famous classical gardens, this graceful property was built in 1871 by an official of the Qing court. It incorporates the landscaping styles of Sūzhōu and Hángzhōu, and the features of Lĭngnán architecture. The result is a photogenic collection of pavilions, terraces, halls, bridges and lakes. It also has a dessert shop selling ginger milk curd (姜汁撞奶; jiāngzhī zhuàngnăi).

The Waterside Pavilion commands a different vista on each of its eight sides; the Deep Willow Room features ancient art and coloured 'Manchu' windows (满洲窗; mǎnzhoū chuāng) aka 'four-season windows' (四季窗; sìjì chuāng), which create an illusion of changing seasons by altering the hue of the outside scenery.

Turn left when you leave the metro. There's a stop for the Route 8 feeder bus to Qīxīnggăng Gōngyuán (七星岗公园; ¥2). Disembark at Nánshān Gōngyuán (南山公园), the 20th stop, after 30 minutes. Cross to the opposite and leafy side of the road. Bus 30 (¥2) from the stop there takes you to the entrance of Yúyìn Mountain Villa just one stop away.

Fóshān 佛山

%0757 / Pop 6 million

An easy half-hour metro ride will take day-trippers from Guǎngzhōu to this city. Fóshān (佛山; literally ‘Buddha Hill’) was famous for its ceramics in the Ming dynasty. Today, it’s better known as the birthplace of two kung fu icons, Wong Fei Hung and Ip Man (Bruce Lee's master), and the Wing Chun style of kung fu developed here.

1Sights

Nánfēng Ancient Kiln Artists' VillageARTS CENTRE

(南风古灶; Nánfēng Gǔzào %0757 8278 0606; 6 Gaomiao Lu, Shíwān, 高庙路6号 ¥25; h9am-5.30pm; g137)

This lovely ceramics town of stone-paved paths is worth snooping around in for its artisans' ceramics workshops and the two ancient ‘dragon kilns’ of more than 30m in length. The modern Bruce Lee statues celebrating the local Wing Chun school of kung fu are also photogenic. Shíwān (石湾), 2km from downtown Fóshān, was once China’s most important ceramics production centre. Much of the Ming dynasty pottery you see at museums comes from here (those in most shops here, however, are mass-produced copies).

ZǔmiàoTAOIST SITE

(祖庙 %0757 8229 3723; www.fszumiao.com; 21 Zumiao Lu, 祖庙路21号 ¥20, combined with Ancient Nánfēng Kiln ¥35; h8.30am-5.30pm; mZǔmiào, exit A)

The 11th-century Zǔmiào temple is believed to be the site where Cantonese opera flourished. The art is still performed today during festivals to entertain the gods, and the tourists. Sharing the complex are a Confucius temple (c 1911) and memorial halls dedicated to two martial artists born in Fóshān – Wong Fei Hung (aka Huang Fei Hong) and Ip Man – and kung fu cinema in general.

There are daily performances of kung fu (10am, 2pm and 3pm) and lion dance (10.30am, 2.15pm and 3.30pm). The temple runs martial-arts classes for children every summer. Call 0757 8222 1680 for details.

Liáng GardenGARDENS

(梁园; Liáng Yuán %0757 8224 1279; Songfeng Lu, 松风路 ¥10; h8.30am-5.30pm; g205, 212)

This tranquil residence of a family that produced painters and calligraphers was built during the Qing dynasty. Designed in a Lǐngnán style, it delights with ponds, willow-lined pathways and, in summer, trees heavy with wax apple and jackfruit. Like Yúyìn Mountain Villa near Guăngzhōu, it's one of the four great classical gardens. Liáng Garden is north of Rénshòu Temple and 300m north of the Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng).

THE MAKING OF A NATIONAL LEGEND

Fóshān-born Wong Fei Hung (1847–1924) is one of China’s best-known folk heroes. Although a consummate gōngfū (kung fu) master in his lifetime, he didn’t become widely known until his story was merged with fiction in countless movies made after 1949, most by Hong Kong directors, such as Hark Tsui's Once Upon a Time in China, starring Jet Li. Sadly, Wong spent his later years in desolation, after his son was murdered and his martial-arts school was destroyed by fire. Regardless, an astonishing 106 movies (and counting!) have celebrated this son of Fóshān, resulting in the world’s longest movie series and the creation of a national legend.

Another Fóshān hero, Ip Man (1893–1972) rose to fame as a Wing Chun master at the outset of WWII. He fled to Hong Kong in 1949 where he founded the first Wing Chun school. His most famous student was Bruce Lee. Ip Man was immortalised by Wong Kar-wai's award-winning The Grandmaster and a series of semibiographical movies starring Donnie Yen.

4Sleeping

Fóshān Marco PoloHOTEL$$$

(马哥孛罗酒店; Mǎgē Bóluó Jiǔdiàn %0757 8250 1888; www.marcopolohotels.com; 97 Renmin Lu, 人民路97号 r/ste from ¥2380/3080; iWs; mZǔmiào, exit C)

Arguably the best place to stay in town. Rates are usually in the region of ¥800.

5Eating

In this temple town, vegetarian restaurants are dotted on-site or nearby. A local speciality is the shrimp wonton noodle soup.

Rénshēngyuán VegetarianVEGETARIAN$

(仁生缘素食; Rénshēngyuán Sùshí %0757 8225 2171; 22 Zumiao Lu; 祖庙路22号 mains ¥23-38; h11am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm; v; mZǔmiào, exit A)

Very good vegetarian dishes that include plenty of fresh greens and mock meats, made to be shared. Enter the large, neat restaurant from the laneway opposite Rénshòu Temple.

Yīngjì Noodle ShopNOODLES$

(应记面家; Yīngjì Miànjiā %0757 3171 2533; 112 Lianhua Lu; 莲花路112号 noodles ¥7-12; h7am-11pm; g105, 106, 109, 114, 118, 128, 137)

This excellent noodle shop opposite Liánhuā Supermarket (莲花超市; Liánhuā Chāoshì) is the go-to place in Fóshān for noodles with shrimp wonton (鲜虾云吞面; xiānxiā yúntūnmiàn).

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Buses leaving from Fóshān bus station (佛山汽车站; Fóshān Shěng Qìchēzhàn Fenjiang Zhonglu), 400m south of the train station:

AShēnzhèn ¥75 to ¥90, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes

AZhūhǎi ¥70, three hours, every 30 to 60 minutes

Buses (¥13) run hourly between Guǎngzhōu's Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station and Zǔmiào bus station (祖庙车站; Zǔmiào Chēzhàn 104 Jianxin Lu; 建新路104号 ), a block east of Zǔmiào metro station.

Train

Trains go to Guǎngzhōu (¥9 to ¥24, 30 minutes, 21 daily).

The metro is the easiest way to get between Guǎngzhōu and Fóshān, via the Guăngfó line (¥7, 30 to 60 minutes), with regular Guǎngzhōu tickets.

There’s a direct express train to Hong Kong (¥210, 2½ hours, 4.13pm), and at 10.42pm from Kowloon.

8Getting Around

Buses 101 and 134 (¥2) link the train station to Zǔmiào and Shíwān.

Taxis start at ¥8 for the first 2km, costing ¥2.60 for every additional 1km.

LǐNGNáN CULTURE

Lǐngnán (岭南) culture is an important part of Cantonese culture and it manifests itself most notably in food, art and architecture, and Cantonese opera. Culturally Lǐngnán was a hybrid and a late bloomer that often went on to reverse-influence the rest of the country. Its development was also fuelled by the ideas of the revolution to end feudalism. Boundaries between refined and pedestrian are relaxed and there’s an open-mindedness towards modernity.

PLACE

Lǐngnán, literally South of the Ranges, refers to the region to the south of the five mountain ranges that separate the Yangzi River (central China) from the Pearl River (southern China). Traditionally, Lǐngnán encompassed several provinces, but today it’s become almost synonymous with Guǎngdōng.

PEOPLE

The term Lǐngnán was traditionally used by men of letters on the Yangzi side as a polite reference to the boonies, where ‘mountains were tall and emperors out of sight’, as a Chinese saying goes. These northerners regarded their southern cousins as less robust (physically and morally), more romantic and less civilised. But being far-flung had its benefits. Lǐngnán offered refuge to people not tolerated by the Middle Kingdom; and played host in various diasporas in Chinese history to migrants from the north, such as the Hakkas in Méizhōu. This also explains why some Cantonese words are closer in pronunciation to the ancient speech of the Chinese.

LǐNGNáN SCHOOL OF PAINTING (1900–50)

The Lǐngnán painters were an influential lot who ushered in a national movement in art in the first half of the 20th century.

Traditionally, Chinese painters were literati well-versed in calligraphy, poetry and Confucian classics. These scholar-artists would later become imperial bureaucrats, and as they were often stationed somewhere far away from home, they expressed their nostalgia by recreating the landscapes of their childhood villages from memory.

The founding masters of the Lǐngnán School of Painting, however, studied abroad, where they were exposed to Japanese and European art. China, during the Qing dynasty, was being carved up by Western powers. Sharing the ideals of the revolutionaries, these artists devoted themselves to a revolution in art by combining traditional techniques with elements of Western and Japanese realist painting.

The New National Painting, as it came to be called, featured a bolder use of colours, more realism and a stronger sense of perspective – a style that was more accessible to the citizenry of China’s new republic than the literati painting of the past.

You can see Lǐngnán paintings at the Guǎngdōng Museum of Art and Memorial Hall of the Lǐngnán School of Painting.

LǐNGNáN ARCHITECTURE

The Lǐngnán school of architecture is one of three major schools of modern Chinese architecture, alongside the Běijīng and Shànghǎi schools. It was founded in the 1950s, though earlier structures exhibiting a distinctive local style had existed since the late Ming dynasty (1600s). The features of the Lǐngnán school are lucidity, openness and an organic incorporation of nature into built environments.

ANCIENT

Examples of this style of architecture include schools, ancestral halls and temples of the Ming and Qing dynasties. The Chen Clan Ancestral Hall in Guǎngzhōu and Zǔmiào in Fóshān are prime illustrations of this style.

Vernacular Lǐngnán-style houses are more decorative than their austere northern cousins. The ‘wok-handle’ houses (锅耳屋; guō'ěr wū) in Líchá village near Zhàoqìng have distinctive wok-handle-shaped roofs that also serve to prevent the spread of fire. You’ll also see in Líchá village bas-relief sculpting and paintings (浮雕彩画; fúdiāo cǎihuà), intricate and colourful, above windows or doors, portraying classical tales, birds, flowers and landscapes.

MODERN

Excellent examples of this style of architecture, appearing in the late Qing dynasty, are the Xīguān houses on Ēnning Road in Guǎngzhōu, with their grey bricks and stained-glass windows. These windows were products of the marriage between Manchurian windows (满洲窗; mǎnzhoū chuāng), simple contraptions consisting of paper overlaid with wood, and coloured glass introduced to Guǎngzhōu by Westerners. It’s said that when a foreign merchant presented the empress dowager with a bead of coloured glass, she was so dazzled by its beauty that she reciprocated with a pearl. Pànxī Restaurant in Guǎngzhōu and Yúyìn Mountain Villa have Manchurian windows embedded with coloured glass.

Another example of modern Lǐngnán architecture is shophouses with arcades or qílóu (骑楼) on the ground floor, a style that evolved from the arcades of southern Europe. You'll see them in Cháyáng Old Town in Méizhōu and Chìkǎn in Kāipíng.

CONTEMPORARY

The garden-restaurants and garden-hotels that proliferated between the 1950s and 1990s are examples of contemporary architecture. Guǎngzhōu’s Garden Hotel, Guǎngzhōu Restaurant and Pànxī Restaurant all contain elaborate indoor gardens complete with trees and waterfalls, and make use of glass to blur the boundary between built and natural environments.

These indoor Edens were fashioned after the private Lǐngnán-style gardens of wealthy families, such as Liáng Garden in Fóshān, which together with the imperial gardens of Peking and the scholars’ gardens of Jiāngnán, constituted the three main types of Chinese gardens. Thanks to these architects, the privilege of having gardens in the interior was now available to all.

CANTONESE OPERA

Cantonese opera is a regional form of Chinese opera that evolved from theatrical forms of the north and neighbouring regions. Like Peking opera, it involves music, singing, martial arts, acrobatics and acting. There’s elaborate face painting, glamorous period costumes and, for some of the roles, high-pitched falsetto singing. But compared to its northern cousin, it tends to feature more scholars than warriors in its tales of courtship and romance.

You don’t have to understand or even like Cantonese opera to appreciate it as an important aspect of Cantonese culture – there’s no shortage of related attractions, such as Bāhé Academy and Luányú Táng in Guǎngzhōu, a festival, and a props speciality shop in Cháozhōu.

If you do decide to catch a show at Culture Park in Guǎngzhōu, those exotic strains could years later become the key that unlocks your memory of your travels in China.

CANTONESE CUISINE

There’s a saying ‘Good food is in Guǎngzhōu’ (食在广州; shí zài Guǎngzhoū). Regional bias aside, Cantonese food is very good. The most influential of the eight major regional cuisines of China, it’s known for complex cooking methods, an obsession with freshness and the use of a wide range of ingredients.

Many Cantonese dishes depend on quick cooking over high heat – these require skills (versus patience over a stew) that are less common in other regional cuisines. Cantonese chefs are also masters at making new techniques sizzle in their language. Dishes such as sweet-and-sour pork, crab shell au gratin and tempura-style prawns show an open-mindedness to foreign ideas.

When it comes to haute cuisine, even northern cooks would acknowledge the superiority of their Cantonese colleagues in making the best of expensive items such as abalone. Also, much of the costliest marine life to grace the Cantonese table, such as deep-sea fish and large prawns, simply doesn’t grow in inland rivers.

Kāipíng 开平

%0750 / Pop 680,000

Kāipíng (开平), 140km southwest of Guǎngzhōu, is home to one of the most arresting human-constructed attractions in Guǎngdōng – the Unesco-crowned diāolóu (碉楼), eccentric watchtowers featuring a fusion of Eastern and Western architectural styles. Out of the approximately 3000 original diāolóu, only 1833 remain.

Downtown Kāipíng is pleasant, especially the section near the Tánjiāng River (谭江), where you’ll see people fishing next to mango and wampee trees.

Kāipíng is also the home of many overseas Chinese. Currently, 720,000 people from the county are living overseas – 40,000 more than its local population. Chinese tourists abound and it's worth dedicating at least one whole day to diāolóu hunting as most require renting a bike or taxi.

1Sights

A combo ticket for seven sights, including Lì Garden and the villages of Zìlì, Jǐnjiānglǐ and Mǎjiànglóng, costs ¥180. It's only available at Lì Garden and Zìlì village. The price for just Lì Garden and one village is ¥150. A village alone costs from ¥50 to ¥80. Some towers charge an extra ¥5 to ¥10 to let you in.

oZìlìVILLAGE

(自力村; Zìlì Cūn h8.30am-5.30pm)

Zìlì, 11km west of Kāipíng, has the largest collection of diāolóu historic watchtowers in the area, though only a few of the 15 are open to the public. The most stunning is Míngshí Lóu (铭石楼), which has a verandah with Ionic columns and a hexagonal pavilion on its roof. It appeared in the film Let the Bullets Fly. Yúnhuàn Lóu (云幻楼) has four towers known as ‘swallow nests’, each with embrasures, cobblestones and a water cannon.

Jǐnjiānglǐ Historic VillageVILLAGE

(锦江里; Jǐnjiānglǐ Cūn h9am-5pm)

The highlights in this village, 20km south of Kāipíng, are the privately run Ruìshí Lóu and Shēngfēng Lóu (升峰楼). The former (c 1923) is Kāipíng’s tallest diāolóu and comprises nine storeys, topped off with a Byzantine-style roof and a Roman dome. The latter is one of very few diāolóu that had a European architect.

Ruìshí LóuTOWER

(瑞石楼 ¥20)

One of the most marvellous of the towers around Kāipíng is located behind Jǐnjiānglǐ village (锦江里), 20km south of Kāipíng. Built in 1923, the privately owned tower has nine storeys with a Byzantine-style roof and Roman dome supported by elaborately decorated walls and pillars.

Nánxìng Xié LóuHISTORIC BUILDING

(南兴斜楼; Leaning Tower )F

In Nánxìng village, Nánxìng Xié Lóu was built in 1903 and tilts severely to one side, with its central axis over 2m off-centre.

Lì GardenHISTORIC SITE

(立园; Lì Yuán h8.30am-5.30pm)

About 15 minutes by taxi from Kāipíng, Lì Garden has a fortified mansion built in 1936 by a wealthy Chinese American. The interiors featuring Italianate motifs and the gardens, with their artificial canals, footbridges and dappled pathways, are delightful.

Diāolóu here include the oldest of the historic towers, Yínglóng Lóu (迎龙楼), found in Sānménlǐ village (三门里), and the fortified villas of Mǎjiànglóng (马降龙) village.

ChìkǎnVILLAGE

(赤坎 )

The charming old town of Chìkǎn, 10km southwest of Kāipíng, has streets of shophouses with arcades on the ground floor flanking the Tánjiāng River (潭江). These distinctive qílóu (骑楼) buildings were built by overseas Cantonese merchants in the 1920s. Bus 6 from Yìcí bus station terminates at Chìkǎn.

KāIPíNG’S BIZARRE TOWERS

Scattered across Kāipíng’s 20km periphery are diāolóu – multistorey watchtowers and fortified residences displaying a flamboyant mix of European, Chinese and Moorish architectural styles. The majority were built in the early 20th century by some of the villagers who made a fortune working as coolies overseas. They brought home fanciful architectural ideas they’d seen in real life and on postcards, and built the towers as fortresses to protect their families from bandits, flooding and Japanese troops.

The oldest diāolóu were communal watchtowers built by several families in a village. Each family was allocated a room within the citadel, where all its male members would go to spend the night to avoid being kidnapped by bandits. These narrow towers had sturdy walls, iron gates and ports for defence and observation. The youngest diāolóu were also watchtowers, but ones equipped with searchlight and alarm. They are located at the entrances to villages.

More than 60% of diāolóu, however, combined residential functions with defence. Constructed by a single family, they were spacious and featured a mix of decorative motifs. As the builders had no exposure to European architectural traditions, they took liberties with proportions, resulting in outlandish buildings that seem to have leapt out of an American folk-art painting or a Miyazaki animation.

These structures sustain a towerlike form for the first few floors, then, like stoic folk who have not forgotten to dream, let loose a riot of arches and balustrades, Egyptian columns, domes, cupolas, corner turrets, Chinese gables and Grecian urns.

4Sleeping

Tribe of DiāomínHOTEL$

(碉民部落; Diāomín Bùluò %0750 261 6222; 126 Henan Lu, Chìkǎn; 赤坎镇河南路126号 dm per person ¥40-50, r ¥140-230; aW)

An old building right by Tánjiāng River in Chìkǎn has been turned into a pleasant backpacker hostel by a bicycle club. The dearest private rooms are given a rustic-China styling in another building. You can rent one of the 100-plus bikes for a full day of sightseeing with provided maps for ¥50 to ¥80. Free laundry use. Bus 6 terminates nearby.

Pan Tower HotelHOTEL$$

(潭江半岛酒店; Tánjiāng Bàndǎo Jiǔdiàn %0750 233 3333; www.pantower.com; 2 Zhongyin Lu; 中银路2号 r ¥700-1700; ai)

The place to stay in Kāipíng. It’s on an islet on the Tánjiāng River and only accessible by taxi (¥15 from Chángshā bus station, five minutes away). Offers discounts of 40% to 60%.

5Eating

Zhōnghuá DōnglùCHINESE$

(中华东路 claypots ¥11-15; h11am-8pm)

A short walk east of central Chìkǎn are over half a dozen stalls serving Kāipíng's speciality bāozifàn （包子饭): rice and meat or eel cooked directly in individual claypots, making for a distinctive crispy rice skin inside – and good street theatre. Ingredients are on display too so point at what you fancy. From Chìkǎn bus terminus it's two stops on bus 6.

Cháojiāngchūn RestaurantCHINESE$$

(潮江春酒楼; Cháojiāngchūn Jiǔlóu %0750 221 9963; 114 Guangming Lu; mains ¥28-98; h11am-10.30pm)

This excellent restaurant serves the local speciality – braised wild-grown goose (狗仔鹅; gǒuzǎi é). The steamed tofu with shredded taro and ground pork (肉碎芋丝蒸豆腐; ròusuì yùsī zhēng dòufu) and salt-baked chicken (手撕鸡; shǒusījī) are also delicious.

8Getting There & Away

Kāipíng has two bus stations (www.bus.ko.com.cn) that are linked by local buses 7 and 13: Yìcí bus station (义祠汽车总站; Yìcí Zǒngzhàn %0750 221 3126; Mucun Lu) and Chángshā bus station (长沙汽车站; Chángshā Qìchēzhàn %0750 233 3442; Xijao Lu). Both run frequent services:

AGuǎngzhōu (Fāngcūn bus station) ¥58, 2½ hours, every 40 minutes (6.30am to 7pm)

AHong Kong HK$160, four hours, three to four times daily

AShēnzhèn ¥92, three to 3½ hours, every 45 minutes (7.30am to 7.30pm)

AZhūhǎi ¥50 to ¥70, 2½ to three hours, every 40 minutes (7am to 7.43pm)

8Getting Around

From both Yìcí and Chángshā bus stations, local buses (from ¥4) go to Chìkǎn and some of the diāolóu. But as the diāolóu are scattered over several counties, your best bet is to hire a taxi for the day. A full day costs around ¥600, but you can negotiate. Otherwise hiring a bike is possible to see a handful of diāolóu.

Yángjiāng 阳江

%0662 / Pop 2.4 million

Yángjiāng (阳江) is a city on the southwestern coast of Guǎngdōng. While downtown Yángjiāng is unexciting, picturesque Hǎilíng Island (海陵岛; Hǎilíng Dǎo), located 50km or an hour’s drive away, is home to the Maritime Silk Road Museum and some of the finest beaches in the province.

1Sights

Shílǐ YíntānBEACH

(十里银滩 Hăilíng Island, Jiāngchéng District; 江城区海陵岛南面 h6.30am-6pm summer, 8am-7pm rest of year)

Literally '10 miles of silver beach', this is the most beautiful and the longest stretch of coastline in the area. On the southern shore of Hăilíng Island, it's where you'll find the Maritime Silk Road Museum of Guǎngdōng.

Maritime Silk Road Museum of GuǎngdōngMUSEUM

(广东海上丝绸之路博物馆; Guǎngdōng Hǎishàng Sīchóu Zhīlù Bówùguǎn %0662 368 1111; www.msrmuseum.com; ¥80, English audio guide free; h9am-5pm, closed 1st & 2nd Mar & Nov)

Sitting right on Shílǐ Yíntān (十里银滩) beach, this museum was purpose-built to house an 800-year-old Song dynasty shipwreck that was wholly salvaged near the island. The remains of the 30m-long merchant vessel (Nanhai No 1; 南海一号), and much of the 70,000 pieces of merchandise on board, now rest in a sealed glass tank. The displays are supplemented by temporary exhibitions of treasures from dynastic China.

4Sleeping & Eating

If money is not an issue, stay on Hǎilíng Island – in the up-and-coming resort area near the museum or in lively Zhápō (闸坡) resort town. Downtown Yángjiāng, though, has the cheapest sleeping options.

Zhápō on Hǎilíng Island has plenty of seafood restaurants that are all quite similar. Pick what you want from the tanks, agree on prices, and it’ll be cooked for you. Generally, seafood items cost ¥30 to ¥230 per 500g/1 catty (斤; jīn); nonseafood dishes are between ¥20 and ¥90. Most eateries pay drivers commission for bringing customers – it's better to choose a restaurant yourself.

7 Days InnHOTEL$

(7天连锁酒店; Qītiān Liánsuŏ Jiŭdiàn %0662 321 7888; www.7daysinn.cn; 37 Dongfeng Erlu, 东风二路37号 r ¥127-187; aW)

Located in Yángjiāng, this place has cheerful rooms.

Jīnhǎilì HotelHOTEL$$

(金海利大酒店; Jīnhǎilì Dàjiǔdiàn %0662 389 6688; fax 0662 389 5599; 23 Haibin Lu, Zhápō Town; 闸坡市海滨路23号 r ¥265-320)

This affordable option in the upmarket Zhápō area has a gloomy lobby but big, decent rooms (it's a designated host for government officials). In July and August, prices go up by 30% on Fridays and double on Saturdays.

Hăilíng Crowne PlazaHOTEL$$$

(海陵岛皇冠假日酒店; Hăilíngdăo Huángguān Jiàrì Jiŭdiàn %0662 386 8888; www.ihg.com/crowneplaza; Shílĭ Silver Beach; 十里银滩 ¥2628-3800; paiWs)

The most luxurious place to stay in Yángjiāng offers 313 top-notch rooms, its own stretch of beach, a spa, swimming pools, barbecues and child-minding services. In July and August, expect to share all of the above with hordes of moneyed local tourists who follow rules of etiquette that may be different from yours. Packages and off-season discounts are often available.

8Getting There & Away

Yángjiāng's main bus station (阳江汽车客运总站, Yángjiāng Qìchē Kèyùn Zǒngzhàn %0662 316 9999; Xiping Beilu) has direct services to the following:

AFóshān ¥98, three hours, six daily (8.30am to 4.50pm)

AGuǎngzhōu ¥70 to ¥95, 3½ hours, frequent (6.05am to 7.20pm)

AHong Kong ¥170 to ¥260, six hours, four daily (8am to 5pm)

AShēnzhèn ¥120, four to five hours, 14 daily (8am to 8.30pm)

AZhūhǎi ¥90, 3½ to four hours, frequent (8am to 7.30pm)

Yángjiāng's No 2 bus station (阳江二运汽车站; Yángjiāng Èryùn Qìchēzhàn %0662 342 9168; 666 Shiwan Beilu) has direct services to the following:

AGuǎngzhōu ¥85, three hours, frequent (6.10am to 7pm)

AKāipíng ¥40, two hours, five daily (8.20am to 4.40pm)

AShēnzhèn ¥135, four hours, 11 daily (7.40am to 8.30pm)

Kāipíng’s Yìcí bus station has two buses daily (12.55pm and 5.15pm) to Yángjiāng’s main bus station and six (from 8.45am to 4.10pm) to its No 2 station (¥40).

8Getting Around

Local buses run every 20 minutes to Zhápō from No 2 station (¥13, one hour, 6.30am to 9pm) and the main station ( ¥13 to ¥20, one hour, 6am to 9.30pm).

Zhápō and the museum area on Hăilíng Island are connected by pedicabs (¥10 to ¥15, 10 minutes). A taxi from downtown Yángjiāng to the Maritime Silk Road Museum of Guǎngdōng costs ¥100 (one hour).