Yúnnán

Pop 47.13 million

Why Go?

Yúnnán (云南) is the most diverse province in all China, both in its extraordinary mix of peoples and in the splendour of its landscapes. That combination of superlative sights and many different ethnic groups has made Yúnnán the trendiest destination for China’s exploding domestic tourist industry.

More than half of the country’s minority groups reside here, providing a glimpse into China’s hugely varied mix of humanity. Then there’s the eye-catching contrasts of the land itself: dense jungle sliced by the Mekong River in the far south, soul-recharging glimpses of the sun over rice terraces in the southeastern regions, and snowcapped mountains as you edge towards Tibet.

With everything from laid-back villages and spa resorts to mountain treks and excellent cycling routes, Yúnnán appeals to all tastes. The roads are much better than they once were, so getting around is a breeze, but you’ll need time to see it all – whatever time you’ve set aside for Yúnnán, double it.

When to Go

AApr Prepare to get soaked in Xīshuāngbǎnnà during the Dai water-splashing festival.

AJul & Aug Head for the mountains and glaciers around Déqīn.

ADec & Jan Escape China’s winter chill and head for Kūnmíng, the city of eternal spring.

Best Places to Eat

A Duan's Kitchen

A Hungry Buddha

A Silent Holy Stones

A Tiāntiān Xiān

A Yán Quán Nóngjiā

A Yíng Jiāng Dǎi Wèi Yuán

Best Places to Sleep

A Blossom Hill Joyland

A Fùjiǎ Liúfāngyuàn

A Jade Emu

A Lost Garden Guesthouse

A Nanshan Arts Hotel

A Old Theatre Inn

Yúnnán Highlights

1 Yuányáng Rice Terraces Catching a magical sunrise or sunset at this awesome natural sight.

2 Tiger Leaping Gorge Testing your legs and lungs on Southwest China's most famous trek.

3 Déqīn Marvelling at the peaks (and glacier) on the Yúnnán-Tibet border.

4 Nuòdèng Stepping off the tourist trail in this delightful ancient village.

5 Xīshuāngbǎnnà Hiking through the jungle to minority villages.

6 Dàlǐ Kicking back in the cafes and bars of this laidback travellers favourite.

7 Lúgū Lake Lazing around the shores of this stunning lake.

8 Shāxī Seeing how time has stood still in this former Tea Horse Road oasis.

9 Bǐngzhōngluò Getting way off the map in this little-visited village in the remote Nù Jiāng Valley.

a Jiànshuǐ Enjoying classic architecture and great barbecue

History

With its remote location, harsh terrain and diverse ethnic make-up, Yúnnán was once considered a backward place populated by barbarians.

The early Han emperors held tentative imperial power over the southwest and forged southern Silk Road trade routes to Myanmar (Burma). From the 7th to mid-13th centuries, though, two independent kingdoms, the Nanzhao and Dàlǐ, ruled and dominated the trade routes from China to India and Myanmar. It wasn’t until the Mongols swept through that the southwest was integrated into the Chinese empire as Yúnnán. Even so, it remained an isolated frontier region, more closely aligned with Southeast Asia than China.

Today, Yúnnán is still a strategic jumping-off point to China’s neighbours. Despite its geographical isolation, much of the province has modernised rapidly in recent years.

4Sleeping

Yúnnán's busiest destinations – Kūnmíng, Dàlǐ, Lìjiāng and Shangri-la – offer the full range of accommodation options: hostels and guesthouses, budget and midrange places, and boutique and upmarket hotels. Smaller towns sometimes have guesthouses, but you are mostly reliant on standard budget and midrange hotels. In remote villages, homestays are the norm.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kūnmíng's newish airport is the fourth-largest and seventh-busiest in China and has daily flights to most cities, as well as to an increasing amount of international destinations. Lìjiāng is also well-connected to a number of Chinese cities, while Dàlǐ and Jǐnghóng have many more flights than before.

Boat

One adventurous route out of Yúnnán in the past was to travel down the Mekong by cargo boat from Jǐnghóng to northern Thailand. Recent security threats have put off most passengers, but it is still possible to hitch a ride.

Bus

Expressways link Kūnmíng with Dàlǐ, east to Guìzhōu and Guǎngxī, southwest past Bǎoshān to Ruìlì and past Jǐnghóng to the Laos border. An expressway is also being built from Kūnmíng to Hēkǒu on the Vietnam border and beyond to Hanoi.

Train

Railways link Yúnnán to Guìzhōu, Guǎngxī, Sìchuān and beyond. In Yúnnán itself, development of the railways has been slower than elsewhere, due mostly to topographical interference. The main route for travellers is the line from Kūnmíng to Dàlǐ and Lìjiāng.

Central Yúnnán

Central Yúnnán covers a big swath of land, including key destinations such as the capital Kūnmíng, long-time travellers favourite Dàlī, and the surrounding Ěrhǎi Lake and mountains of Cāng Shān, as well as the legendary rice terraces of Yuányáng, perhaps Yúnnán’s finest photo opportunity. But central Yúnnán is also where you’ll find some of the region’s least visited highlights: the former Tea Horse Road caravan oasis of Shāxī, the ancient Bai village of Nuòdèng and the historic old towns of Jiànshuǐ and Wēishān, whose streets are lined with wooden houses, courtyard homes, temples and drum and bell towers.

With so many travellers passing through this region, the most visited places like Kūnmíng and Dàlī offer everything from hip hostels and boutique guesthouses to luxury hotels. But you’ll find a growing number of sleeping options even in less well-known places like Shāxī, or the villages set amid the rice terraces of Yuányáng. Expect to find family-run guesthouses, standard budget and midrange hotels and, occasionally, hostels in small towns and villages.

You’ll find all of Yúnnán’s wonderful food here, while Kūnmíng and Dàlī have an increasingly sophisticated choice of Western places too. Bai cuisine is on offer in Dàlī and the surrounding area, utilising strange and delicious vegetables, and is well worth trying, especially as it is less spicy than some of Yúnnán’s other minority cooking. Jiànshuǐ is rightly famed for its superb barbecue and claypot dishes.

Kūnmíng and Xiàguān are the main transport hubs for central Yúnnán, both with airports, train stations and extensive bus connections. Kūnmíng’s airport is one of the biggest in China and has many international flights, as well as dozens of daily flights to regional destinations. You can also catch buses from Kūnmíng direct to Laos, or hop the train to Xiàguān for Dàlī. Xiàguān’s airport serves destinations in Yúnnán, while its four bus stations provide onward transport to the rest of central Yúnnán and beyond. Xiàguān’s train station has services northwest to Lìjiāng.

Kūnmíng 昆明

%0871 / Pop 3.27 million

Kūnmíng (昆明) has long been regarded as one of China’s most liveable cities. Known as the 'Spring City' for its equable climate, it remains a very pleasant place to kick back for a few days. For visitors who haven't succumbed to the laid-back attitude displayed by the locals, there are plenty of temples and national parks nearby (including the legendary Stone Forest) to keep you busy.

Of course, like other Chinese cities, the face of Kūnmíng is constantly changing and most old neighbourhoods have been torn down to make way for shopping malls. And the traffic jams that were unknown a few years ago, are now a regular occurrence. Yet, the essentially easy-going nature of Kūnmíng is, thankfully, still the same.

History

The region of Kūnmíng has been inhabited for 2000 years, but it wasn’t until WWII that the city really began to expand, when factories were established and refugees, fleeing from the Japanese, started to pour in from eastern China. As the end point of the famous Burma Road, a 1000km-long haul from Lashio in Myanmar, the city played a key role in the Sino-Japanese War. Renmin Xilu marks the tail end of the road.

After the war, the city returned to being overlooked and isolated. When China opened to the West, however, tourists noticed the province, and Kūnmíng used its gateway status to the rest of Yúnnán to become one of the loveliest cities in southwest China.

Now, as Běijīng looks to boost China's already significant economic presence in Southeast Asia, new transport routes south from Kūnmíng are being constructed. In particular, work has finally started on the long-touted high-speed railway designed to link Kūnmíng with Vientiane in Laos and Bangkok in Thailand. In the not-too-distant future, maybe as early as 2020, travellers will be able to jump on a train in Kūnmíng and arrive in Vientiane the same day.

Kūnmíng

1Sights

1Chuàng KùA5

2East PagodaD5

3Green Lake ParkB1

TCG NordicaA5

4West PagodaC5

Yuánshēng Art SpaceA5

5Yuántōng TempleD1

6Yúnnán Provincial MuseumB4

4Sleeping

7Green Lake HotelC2

8Hàntíng ExpressE5

9Hump HostelC5

10Kūnmíng Upland Youth HostelC2

Lost Garden GuesthouseC2

11Te Yun HotelA1

12Yúndà BīnguǎnB1

5Eating

131910 La Gare du SudD5

14As You LikeB1

15Hóng Dòu YuánB1

16HumdingerC3

17Park Bar & GrillB2

18Yíng Jiāng Dǎi Wèi YuánB1

6Drinking & Nightlife

19AleiC3

20MoondogB4

7Shopping

21Flower & Bird MarketC4

22Mandarin Books & CDsA1

1Sights

Yuántōng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(圆通寺; Yuántōng Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yuantong Jie; ¥6; h8am-5pm)

This temple is the largest Buddhist complex in Kūnmíng and a draw for both pilgrims and locals. It’s more than 1000 years old, but has been refurbished many times. To the rear, a hall has been added, with a statue of Sakyamuni, a gift from Thailand’s king.

Green Lake ParkPARK

(翠湖公园; Cuìhú Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Cuihu Nanlu; h6am-10pm)

Come here to people-watch, practise taichi or just hang with the locals and stroll. The roads along the park are lined with wannabe trendy cafes, teahouses and shops. In November, everyone in the city awaits the return of the local favourites, red-beaked seagulls; it’s a treat watching people, er, ‘flock’ to the park when the first one shows up.

Chuàng KùGALLERY

(创库艺术主题社区, Chuàngkù Yìshù Zhǔtí Shèqū, Loft MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 101 Xiba Lu)

West of downtown in a disused factory area known as Chuàng Kù, you'll find a small number of galleries and cafes featuring modern Chinese artists and photographers. Yuánshēng Art Space (源生坊; Yuánshēngfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6419 5697; 101 Xiba Lu; h2.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun) is a gallery-bar-restaurant-theatre focusing on the province's ethnic groups. The cornerstone of sorts is TCG Nordica.

TCG NordicaGALLERY

(诺地卡; Nuòdìkǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6411 4691; www.tcgnordica.com; 101 Xiba Lu; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat, closed Sun)

TCG Nordica is best described as a gallery–exhibition hall–cultural centre. Live jazz and dance, art and photo exhibitions, an English corner on Monday's (a good opportunity to meet some locals) are all staged here and there's even a relaxing restaurant with Scandinavian and Chinese food (dishes from ¥15). Check out the website for the full slate of performances and events.

East PagodaPAGODA

(东寺塔; Dōngsì Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 63 Shulin Jie; h9am-5pm)F

Closed for renovations at the time of research, the East Pagoda is a Tang structure that was, according to Chinese sources, destroyed by an earthquake (Western ones say it was destroyed by the Muslim revolt in the mid-19th century). When it is open, it is a hang-out for senior citizens.

Yúnnán Provincial MuseumMUSEUM

(云南省博物馆; Yúnnán Shěng Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 118 Wuyi Lu; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F

Set inside a 1950s-era building, Yúnnán’s provincial museum has been upgraded and its interior is sparkling throughout. There are reasonable exhibitions on Diān Chí (Dian Lake), prehistoric and early cultures, but the highlight is the section on Yúnnán’s minorities, with excellent displays of ethnic costumes and musical instruments.

West PagodaPAGODA

(西寺塔; Xīsì Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dongsi Jie; h9am-5pm)F

Closed for renovations at the time of research, this Tang pagoda can't be climbed, nor is the temple complex open, but it is a good spot for people-watching with all manner of tea-drinking and mah-jong games going on.

4Sleeping

Some of the best hostels and guesthouses in all Yúnnán can be found in Kūnmíng, as well as budget, midrange and luxury hotels. Many are dotted around Green Lake Park and the surrounding area, which is a convenient central location. The cheapest places are close to the train station.

Kūnmíng Upland Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(昆明倾城青年旅社; Kūnmíng Qīngchéng Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6337 8910; uplandhostel@gmail.com; 92 Huashan Xilu; 华山西路92号 dm ¥41-46, s & d ¥132-204; iW)

This place aims to impress with its sharp red and black decor, sizeable bar and inside and outdoor communal areas. Rooms have wood furnishings, and dorms come with big lockers and power outlets. It has English-speaking staff and a handy location near Green Lake. BIkes can be rented for ¥30 a day.

It’s just off Huashan Xilu on a little alley called Dameiyuan Xiang (大梅园巷), near the back entrance of the landmark Green Lake Hotel.

Kūnmíng Ivies Will International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(昆明爬山虎国际青年旅舍; Kūnmíng Páshānhǔ Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0871 6541 1919; www.ivieswill.com; 24 Jindingshan Beilu; 金鼎山北路24号 dm ¥35-40, d ¥138; iW)

This hostel that caters mostly to local travellers, although some English is spoken. Dorms and rooms are big and comfortable and come with private bathrooms, there's a large communal area and there's even a basic gym. The drawback is that it is a ¥15 taxi ride from the centre of town. But buses 1, 83 and 168 all run here from the centre.

Hump HostelHOSTEL$

(驼峰客栈; Tuófēng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6364 0359; www.thehumphostel.com; Jinmabiji Guangchang, Jinbi Lu; 金碧路金马碧鸡广场 dm ¥35-45, d with/without bathroom ¥165/90, tr ¥195; iW)

Kūnmíng’s liveliest hostel, in part because of its close proximity to many bars, karaoke joints and restaurants. Bring some earplugs as all this activity could keep you up at night. The hostel itself has clean and big dorms (four to 10 beds); the private rooms (the cheapest lack windows) are sizeable, too, although the beds can be a bit hard.

Bike hire is ¥30 a day and the hostel's own bar and terrace are popular spots for late night carousing.

oLost Garden GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

(一丘田园客栈; Yìqiū Tiányuán Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6511 1127; www.lostgardenguesthouse.com; 7 Yiqiu Tian; 一丘田7号 dm ¥55-60, d ¥178-328; naiW)

A relaxing oasis amid white-brick apartment blocks, this newly renovated boutique guesthouse has nouveau Dàlǐ decor with wood furniture, antiques, pleasant lounge and roof terrace. Rooms are spread across two adjoining buildings. It’s tricky to locate: start by following the alley to the right of Green Lake Hotel, then take the first left and look for the sign pointing left.

Ask for a room towards the back; there is a noisy school across the road.

Hàntíng ExpressHOTEL$$

(汉庭快捷酒店; Hàntíng Kuàijíe Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %400 8121 121; www.huazhu.com; 277 Beijing Lu; 北京路277号 tw/d ¥149/179; aW; bTangzixiang)

Handily located budget chain hotel with compact but modern and clean rooms. You won't hear any English spoken, but it's close to the subway, the train station and the centre of town. To get here, walk south of the Tangzixiang subway stop (line 2) for 200m.

Green Lake HotelHOTEL$$$

(翠湖宾馆; Cuìhú Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6515 8888; www.greenlakehotel.com; 6 Cuihu Nanlu; 翠湖南路 6号 r from ¥2277; naiWs)

Proud but subdued, this gentle giant of Kūnmíng hôtellerie history has a fabulous location, opposite Green Park, and has kept up with modernity, doing so tastefully and with top-notch service. The panorama from the top floors is worth the price alone. Discounts of 50% are often available, and there are Chinese, Japanese and Western restaurants on-site.

Tè Yùn HotelHOTEL$$$

(特运酒店; Tè Yùn Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6809 0999; 40 Longxiang Jie; 龙翔街40号 d ¥688; aW)

A Chinese-style midrange hotel with big rooms, decent beds and bathrooms and a useful location close to restaurants and bars. Routine 50% discounts make it an attractive choice. There's wi-fi throughout and the staff are helpful despite limited English. It's set back from the road.

Yúndà BīnguǎnHOTEL$$$

(云大宾馆; Yúnnán University Hotel MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6503 4179; www.ynuhotel.com; Wenhua Xiang; 文化巷 d ¥188-788; aW)

Conveniently close to the restaurant and bar hub of Wenhua Xiang and Wenlin Jie, the Yúndà’s rooms are not exciting but do the job. The hotel is divided into two, with the cheaper rooms with hard beds in the wing across the road from the main entrance. Regular 40% discounts bring it into the midrange price category.

PRICE RANGES

SLEEPING

$ less than ¥200

$$ ¥200–¥350

$$$ more than ¥350

EATING

$ less than ¥40

$$ ¥40–¥60

$$$ more than ¥60

5Eating

Kūnmíng is a fine place to sample Yúnnán’s most famous dish: 'across-the-bridge noodles' (过桥米线; guòqiáo mǐxiàn), but you’ll find restaurants serving dishes from every corner of the province. For all manner of foreign restaurants, including Indian, Korean and Mexican, head to Wenhua Xiang. For self-catering, try Carrefour Supermarket, a branch of the popular French chain.

oYíng Jiāng Dǎi Wèi YuánYUNNAN$$

(盈江傣味园 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6511 6788; 66 Cuihu Beilu; 翠湖北路66号 dishes from ¥20; h11.30am-9pm)

Popular with the locals, this bustling restaurant offers an authentic taste of the delicious, sour and spicy cuisine of the Dai minority from Xīshuāngbǎnnà in the deep south of Yúnnán, including such delicacies as bamboo worms (they taste better than they sound). Hefty portions and a pleasant location by Green Lake too. Picture menu.

Park Bar & GrillINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %153 6817 1162; Shicui Cultural Centre, Green Lake Park; 翠湖公园拾翠文化中心 mains ¥40-80, breakfast from ¥30; h9.30am-midnight; kitchen closes at 9pm); W)

With an enviable setting slap in the middle of Green Lake Park, this new place is drawing in both expats and flush locals. Solid menu of well-cooked Western dishes, as well as a few Mexican favourites, and a good selection of foreign alcohol. There's a big outside area to eat at and they host DJ's, live music and film screenings too.

It's equally good for a coffee during the day or a drink in the evening. You need to be inside the park by 10pm to get access late at night.

Tǔ Shēngshí GuǎnYUNNAN$$

(土生食馆 %0871 6542 0010; District B, Jinding 1919, 15 Jindingshan Beilu; 金鼎山北路15号金鼎1919B区 dishes from ¥22; h10am-9pm)

Located on the ground-floor of a converted warehouse a couple of kilometres northwest of the city centre, this family-run place uses strictly organic ingredients for its selection of favourite local dishes. The veggies and homemade tofu are outstanding and the atmosphere relaxed; there's a small outside area. No English spoken, but there is an English menu.

As You LikeINTERNATIONAL$$

(有佳面包店; Yǒujiā Miànbāo Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6541 1715; 5 Tianjundian Xiang, off Wenlin Jie; 文林街红豆园旁天君殿巷5号 salads from ¥15, pizzas from ¥32; h11am-10.30pm Tue-Sun; Wv)

Cute cubbyhole cafe/restaurant that's all vegetarian. Staff make excellent pizza, salads and sandwiches, all from local organic produce, as well as fine smoothies and there's a good range of Chinese teas. To find it, walk east on Wenlin Jie (coming from Wenhua Xiang) and take the first left up the narrow alley just before the school and follow it round.

1910 La Gare du SudYUNNAN$$

(昆明1910火车南站餐厅, Kūnmíng 1910 Huǒchē Nánzhàn Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6316 9486; 8 Houxin Jie; 后新街8号 dishes from ¥15; h11am-9pm)

Offering good-value Yúnnán specialities in a pleasant neo-colonial-style atmosphere, this place is a fave with both expats – it’s the kind of place foreign students take their parents when they come to visit – and cashed-up locals. It’s hidden down an alley off Chongshan Lu, south of Jinbi Lu. Call ahead for instructions on how to get here.

Hóng Dòu YuánYUNNAN$$

(红豆圆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6539 2020; 142 Wenlin Jie; 文林街142号 dishes from ¥15; h11am-9pm)

An old-school Chinese eatery, with a duck-your-head stairway, this is a real locals’ hang-out on cosmopolitan Wenlin Jie. The food is excellent and will draw you back. Try regional specialities such as the táozá rǔbǐng (fried goat’s cheese and Yúnnán ham) and liáng bái ròu (peppery, tangy beef). Picture menu.

CantinaITALIAN$$

(意老夫子意大利餐厅; Yìlǎofūzi Yìdàlì Cāntīng %138 4498 1890; 9 Hongshan Donglu, Backstreet Block, building 11-1; 虹山东路9号版筑翠园商铺11幢一层1号（麦当劳隔壁） mains from ¥42; h11am-11pm; W)

Big, light-filled, Italian-run venue set around an attractive central bar. There are 24 different types of pizza, as well as pasta and panini (from ¥28), steaks and excellent selections of cold meats and cheeses. Good wine list and it does daily lunch specials (from ¥49). It's inside the Banzhucuiyuan complex northwest of the centre. To find it, walk a little east of the McDonald's.

HumdingerINTERNATIONAL$$

(玩啤; Wánpí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6360 1611; 111 Zhengyi Lu; 正义路111号 mains from ¥58; h5.30pm-2.30am; W)

Despite the giant vats in which Humdinger's own beer brews, this place is much more of a restaurant than a bar. The western food – pizzas, ribs, burgers, steaks – is served up from an open kitchen in an industrial-chic setting and the locals love it, packing it out every evening.

Brooklyn PizzeriaPIZZA$$

(布鲁克林批萨店; Bùlǔkèlín Pīsǎdiàn %0871 6533 3243; www.kunmingpizza.com; 6-8, Bldg 12 Banzhucuiyuan, 11 Hongshan Donglu; 虹山东路11号版筑翠园12栋6-8商铺 pizzas from ¥55; h11.30am-10pm; W)

A big selection of stone-oven pizzas, as well as excellent New York–style grinder and Philly cheese steak sandwiches, are on offer here, plus lots of foreign beers. It's just northwest of the centre of town, in a rapidly expanding area of new restaurants and bars.

Tell your taxi to head for Banzhucuiyuan and then walk east from the McDonald's for 100m or so.

ACROSS-THE-BRIDGE NOODLES

Yúnnán’s best-known dish is ‘across-the-bridge noodles’ (过桥米线; guòqiáo mǐxiàn). You are provided with a bowl of very hot soup (stewed with chicken, duck and spare ribs) on which a thin layer of oil is floating, along with a side dish of raw pork slivers (in classier places this might be chicken or fish), vegetables and egg, and a bowl of rice noodles. Diners place all of the ingredients quickly into the soup bowl, where they are cooked by the steamy broth. Prices generally vary from ¥15 to ¥25, depending on the side dishes. It’s usually worth getting these, because with only one or two condiments the soup lacks zest.

It is said the dish was created by a woman married to an imperial scholar. He decamped to an isolated island to study and she got creative with the hot meals she brought to him every day after crossing the bridge. This noodle dish was by far the most popular and christened ‘across-the-bridge noodles’ in honour of her daily commute.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Foreigners congregate in the bars on and around Wenhua Xiang and Banzhucuiyuan. Head to the Kūndū Night Market area and Jinmabiji Sq for Chinese-style clubs and bars.

FubarBAR

(139 Jianshe Lu; 建设路139号 beers from ¥20; h6pm-late; W)

Kūnmíng's late-night crowd congregate at this friendly and suitably grungy bar, which closes only when the last customer has left (often when the sun is coming up). Decent selection of local and foreign alcohol, table football and a cool soundtrack. It's about 1km northwest of Wenlin Jie and close to Banzhucuiyuan.

AleiBAR

(艾蕾酒廊; Àiléi Jiǔláng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6836 9099; Bldg A1, Zhengyifang, 3 Qianwang Jie; 正义坊 A1 栋钱王街3号 cocktails from ¥50; h5pm-2am; W)

The original of a growing number of Kūnmíng cocktail bars, Alei is a large, low-lit, modern space that has proved a hit with upwardly mobile locals. The bartenders know their trade and there's nightly live music of one form or another.

MoondogBAR

(月亮狗; Yuèliàng Gǒu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 138-5 Wacang Nanlu, 瓦仓南路138-5号 beers from ¥15; h8pm-late; W)

An expat-Chinese-run dive bar that attracts a mixed crowd of expats and locals. DJs most weekends and it shows the English football too.

7Shopping

Yúnnán specialities are marble and batik from Dàlǐ, jade from Ruìlì, minority embroidery, musical instruments and spotted-brass utensils.

Yúnnánese tea is an excellent buy and comes in several varieties, from bowl-shaped bricks of smoked green tea called tuóchá, which have been around since at least Marco Polo’s time, to leafy black tea that rivals some of India’s best.

Mandarin Books & CDsBOOKS

(五华书苑; Wǔhuá Shūyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6551 6579; 52 Wenhua Xiang; h9am-10pm)

Good spot for guidebooks, novels and a selection of travel writing in English and other languages, as well as books on Yúnnán itself.

ONE-STOP SHOPPING

The Flower & Bird Market (花鸟市场; Huāniǎo Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tongdao Jie; h7am-8pm), also known as lǎo jiē (old street), has shrunk dramatically in recent years and is now ominously hemmed in by encroaching modernity. Nor are flowers and birds the main draw here any more, although there are still plenty of examples of both. Instead, strollers peruse stalls chock-full of jade and jewellery, curios, knick-knacks and clothing.

One block west of the intersection of Guanghua Jie and the pedestrian-only Zhengyi Lu sits Fú Lín Táng (福林堂), the city’s oldest pharmacy, which has been dishing out the sānqì (the legendary Yúnnánese cure-all root mixed into tea; around ¥160 per gram) since 1857.

8Information

Most of the backpacker hotels and some of the cafes can assist with travel queries and they are usually the best places to get travel advice.

Medical Services

Richland International HospitalHOSPITAL

(瑞奇德国际医院; Ruìqídé Guójì Yīyuàn %0871 6574 1988; Beijing Lu)

Most of the doctors are Chinese but English is spoken here. Standards are generally good and prices are reasonable: consultations start from ¥30, then you pay for whatever treatment is required. It’s on the bottom three floors of the Shàngdū International building; Yanchang Xian extension near Jinxing Flyover. A taxi ride from the city centre costs around ¥20.

WatsonsPHARMACY

(屈臣士; Qū Chén Shì GOOGLE MAP ; Dongsi Jie; h9am-10pm)

Western cosmetics and basic medicines. Other branches around town.

Yán’ān HospitalHOSPITAL

(延安医院; Yán’ān Yīyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6321 1101; 1st fl, block 6, Renmin Donglu; 人民东路6号 )

Has a foreigners’ clinic.

Money

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 12 Dongfeng Xilu, 东风西路12号 )

Will change foreign currency and travellers cheques.

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 448 Renmin Donglu; h9am-5pm)

All necessary services and has an ATM.

Public Security Bureau

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6301 7878; 399 Beijing Lu; h8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

To visit the givers of visa extensions, head southeast off Government Sq (东风广场; Dōngfēng Guǎngchǎng) to the corner of Shangyi Jie and Beijing Lu. Another office (%0871 6571 7001; Jinxing Lu; h8.30am-11.30am, 1.30pm-4.30pm Mon-Fri) is off Erhuan Beilu in northern Kūnmíng; take bus 3, 25 or 57.

Post

China PostPOST

(国际邮局; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 223 Beijing Lu, 北京路223号 h9am-6pm; bTangzixiang)

The main international office has poste restante and parcel service (per letter ¥3, ID required). It is also the city’s Express Mail Service (EMS) and Western Union agent. Another branch on Dongfeng Donglu.

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Although Kūnmíng's reputation as one of China's safest cities was dented by a March 2014 attack on passengers at the train station by restive Uighurs that left 29 people dead, foreigners have little to fear here. As always, take special precautions against pickpockets at and around the train and long-distance bus stations. There have been a number of travellers who've been drugged and robbed on overnight sleeper buses.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kūnmíng's airport is located 25km northeast of the city.

It has direct services to/from North America, Europe and Australia. International flights to Asian cities include Bangkok (from ¥621), Hong Kong (from ¥560), Vientiane (from ¥1301), Yangon (from ¥1066) and Kuala Lumpur (from ¥627).

China Eastern Airlines (中国东方航空; Zhōngguó Dōngfāng Hāngkōng GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Tuodong Lu; h8.30am-7.30pm) issues tickets for any Chinese airline but the office only offers discounts on certain flights.

Daily flights from Kūnmíng go to most major cities across China, including Běijīng (from ¥729), Guǎngzhōu (from ¥465) and Shànghǎi (from ¥564). There are regional services to Lhasa in Tibet (¥1960) and within Yúnnán, including Bǎoshān (from ¥538), Lìjiāng (from ¥320) and Xiàguān/Dàlǐ (from ¥350).

Bus

Kūnmíng’s five bus stations are located on the outskirts of the city.

Buses departing the south bus station (彩云北路南客运站; cǎiyún běilù nán kèyùnzhàn):

AJiànshuǐ ¥81, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes (7.30am to 8.30pm)

AJǐnghóng ¥223 to ¥247, eight hours, every 30 minutes (8am to 10pm)

AYuányáng ¥139, seven hours, four daily (10.20am, 11am, 12.30pm and 6.30pm)

Buses departing the west bus station (马街西客运站; mǎjiē xī kèyùnzhàn):

ABǎoshān ¥167 to ¥233, nine hours, every hour (8.30am to 10pm)

AChǔxióng ¥55 to ¥58, two to three hours, every 10 minutes (7.10am to 7.10pm)

ADàlǐ ¥110 to ¥137, four to five hours, every 15 minutes (7.20am to 8.20pm)

ALìjiāng ¥184 to ¥217, nine hours, nine daily (9.30am to 8.30pm)

ARuìlì ¥273 to ¥300, 12 hours, eight daily (8.30am to 9pm)

AShangri-la ¥208 to ¥249, 12 hours, seven daily (8.30am to 8.30pm)

ATéngchōng ¥230 to ¥289, 11 hours, ten daily (9am to 9pm)

Buses departing the east bus station (白沙河东客运站; báishāhé dōng kèyùnzhàn):

AHékǒu ¥147, eight hours, two daily (11.40am and 7.30pm)

AShílín ¥38, two hours, every 30 minutes (7am to 7.30pm).

Allow plenty of time to get to the bus stations (60 to 90 minutes). Line 2 of the subway runs to the south bus station, as does bus 154 from the train station. Bus 80 runs to the west bus station from the train station, while bus 60 goes to the east bus station, which is also on the subway network. A taxi will cost ¥40 to ¥50.

Train

You can buy train tickets up to 10 days in advance. The following prices are for hard-sleeper berths:

ABěijīng ¥549.50 to ¥575

AChéngdū ¥251 to ¥272

AGuǎngzhōu ¥351 to ¥378

AGuìyáng ¥161 to ¥175

ALiùpánshuǐ ¥108.50 to ¥128

AShànghǎi ¥496 to ¥533.50

AXī’ān ¥397 to ¥426

Within Yúnnán, 10 daily trains run to Dàlǐ (seat ¥49 to ¥64, hard sleeper ¥88 to ¥113, six to seven hours, 8.10am to 11.58pm). Book ahead, as it is a popular route.

Seven trains run daily to Lìjiāng (seat ¥89, hard sleeper ¥152 to ¥163, nine hours, 9.40am to 11.30pm).

BORDER CROSSINGS: GETTING TO LAOS & VIETNAM

Getting to Laos

A daily bus from Kūnmíng to Vientiane (¥587) leaves from the south bus station, at 6.30pm, reaching its destination 30 hours later. Alternatively, take a bus to Móhān on the border with Laos; these depart at 12.20pm and 8pm, cost ¥272 to ¥301 and take about 10 hours.

Getting To Vietnam

Apart from getting on a plane, the only way to get to Vietnam from Kūnmíng for now is by bus. Two buses (11.40am and 7.30pm) run daily from Kūnmíng’s east bus station to the border town of Hékǒu (¥147).

Official proceedings at this border crossing can be frustrating (and officials have been known to confiscate Lonely Planet guides because they show Taiwan as a different country to China). Just keep your cool.

On the Chinese side, the border checkpoint is technically open from 8am to 11pm but don’t bank on anything after 6pm. Set your watch when you cross the border – the time in China is one hour later than in Vietnam. Visas are unobtainable at the border crossing.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Airport buses (¥25) run to/from the airport every 30 minutes from nine different locations, the most convenient being the train station, north and west bus stations and the Kūnmíng Hotel. The buses start running from 5am or 6am, depending on the route. The subway will eventually extend to reach the airport.

Ignore the many unofficial taxi touts who will approach you after you exit customs. Always take an official cab. Taxis charge ¥70 to ¥100 into town, depending on traffic and where you are going, and a flat rate of ¥120 going to the airport.

Bicycle

Hostels rent bikes for ¥30 per day, but Kūnmíng has lots of hills.

Bus

Bus 63 runs from the east bus station to the main train station. Bus 2 runs from the train station to Government Sq (Dongfeng Guangchang) and then past the west bus station. Fares range from ¥1 to ¥4. The main city buses have no conductors and require exact change.

Train

Two subway lines are now operational in Kūnmíng, with four more under construction. Fares range from ¥2 to ¥6 and trains run approximately 6.30am to 11pm. For now, the most useful stops include the train station and south bus station, as well as Government Sq (Dongfeng Guangchang) in the centre of town.

Around Kūnmíng

There are some grand sights within a 15km radius of Kūnmíng, but getting to most of them is time-consuming and you’ll find the majority of them extremely crowded (weekdays are best to avoid the crowds).

If you don’t have much time, the Bamboo Temple (Qióngzhú Sì) and Xī Shān (Western Hills) are the most interesting. Both have decent transport connections. Diān Chí (Lake Dian) has terrific circular-tour possibilities of its own.

Around Kūnmíng

1Sights

1Bamboo TempleA1

2Dragon GateA2

3Huátíng TempleA1

4Tàihuá TempleA1

5Yúnnán Nationalities MuseumB1

8Information

6Vietnamese ConsulateB1

7Yán'ān HospitalB1

Bamboo Temple 筇竹寺

Bamboo TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Qióngzhú Sì; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10; h8am-5pm)

This serene temple (no photos allowed inside) is definitely one to be visited by sculptors as much as by those interested in temple collecting. Raised during the Tang dynasty, it was rebuilt in the 19th century by master Sichuanese sculptor Li Guangxiu and his apprentices, who fashioned 500 luóhàn (arhats or noble ones) in a fascinating mishmash of superb realism and head-scratching exaggerated surrealism.

Li and his mates pretty much went gonzo in their excruciating, eight-year attempt to perfectly represent human existence in statuary. How about the 70-odd surfing Buddhas, riding the waves on a variety of mounts – blue dogs, giant crabs, shrimp, turtles and unicorns? And this is cool: count the arhats one by one to the right until you reach your age – that is the one that best details your inner self.

So lifelike are the sculptures that they were considered in bad taste by Li Guangxiu's contemporaries (some of whom no doubt appeared in caricature), and upon the project's completion he disappeared into thin air.

The temple is about 12km northwest of Kūnmíng. Take bus 2 to Huáng tǔ pō, from where shared minivans (¥10 per person) run to the temple.

Diān Chí 滇池

Diān ChíLAKE

(滇池; Lake Dian )

The shoreline of Diān Chí, located to the south of Kūnmíng, is dotted with settlements, farms and fishing enterprises. The lake is elongated – about 40km from north to south – and covers an area of 300 sq km. Plying the waters are fānchuán (pirate-sized junks with bamboo-battened canvas sails). The area around the lake is mainly for scenic touring and hiking, and there are some fabulous aerial views from the ridges at Dragon Gate in Xī Shān.

Xī Shān 西山

This cool, forested mountain range on the western side of Diān Chí makes for a great day trip from Kūnmíng. Xī Shān (西山) is full of walking trails (some very steep sections), quiet temples, gates and lovely forests. But avoid the weekends when Kūnmíngers come here in droves.

1Sights

Dragon GateHISTORIC SITE

(龙门; Lóng Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥40)

Close to the top of the mountain is Dragon Gate, a group of grottoes, sculptures, corridors and pavilions that were hacked from the cliff between 1781 and 1835 by a Taoist monk and co-workers, who must have been hanging up here by their fingertips.

Huátíng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(华亭寺; Huátíng Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥25; h8am-6pm)

At the foot of the climb, about 15km from Kūnmíng, is Huátíng Temple, a country temple of the Nanzhao kingdom believed to have been constructed in the 11th century. It’s one of the largest in the province and its numerous halls are decorated with arhats. A combined ¥25 ticket allows admission here and to Tàihuá Temple (太华寺; Tàihuá Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥25; h8am-6pm).

Sānqīng GéTAOIST TEMPLE

(三清阁 )

Sānqīng Gé, near the top of the mountain, was a country villa of a Yuan dynasty prince, and was later turned into a temple dedicated to the three main Taoist deities (sānqīng refers to the highest level of Taoist ‘enlightenment’).

From near here you can catch a chairlift (one way/return ¥25/40) if you want to skip the final ascent to the summit.

8Getting There & Away

One day, Kūnmíng’s metro system will extend out here. Until then, take bus 54 (¥2, 6am to 11pm) from the corner of Renmin Zhonglu and Zhengyi Lu in Kūnmíng to its terminus at Mián Shān Chē Chǎng (眠山车场), and then change to bus 6 (¥1, 6.30am to 8pm), which will take you to the foot of the hills. Buses run up Xī Shān itself to Sānqīng Gé (one way/return ¥12.50/25, every 15 minutes, 8.10am to 6.10pm).

Returning, you could take the cable car across to Hǎigěng Park for ¥40. From here, take the 94 bus or a taxi for the 3km or so to the Yúnnán Nationalities Museum, where you can catch bus 44 (¥1, 40 minutes) to Kūnmíng’s main train station.

Shílín 石林

%0871 / Pop 87,955

A conglomeration of utterly bizarre but stunning karst geology and a hell of a lot of tourists, Shílín (石林), about 120km southeast of Kūnmíng, is equal parts tourist trap and natural wonderland. A massive collection of grey limestone pillars split and eroded by wind and rainwater (the tallest reaches 30m high), the place was, according to legend, created by immortals who smashed a mountain into a labyrinth for lovers seeking privacy.

Yes, it’s packed to the gills, every single rock is affixed with a cheesy poetic moniker, Sani women can be persistent in sales, and it’s all pricey as hell. Yet, idyllic, secluded walks are within 2km of the centre and by sunset or moonlight Shílín becomes other-worldly. To avoid the crowds, arrive early and avoid weekends.

During the July/August torch festival, wrestling, bullfighting, singing and dancing are held at a natural outdoor amphitheatre by Hidden Lake, south of Shílín.

Shílín can easily be visited as a day trip from Kūnmíng, and it doesn’t have much in the way of budget accommodation. But if you want to stay the night, the rooms at the Shílín Hēisōngyán Jiǔdiǎn (石林黑松岩酒店 %0871 6771 1088; tw ¥280; W) are quiet and have good views over Shílín.

Sani song and dance evenings are organised when there are enough tourists. Shows normally start at around 8pm at a stage next to the minor stone forest but there are sometimes extra performances. There are also Sani performances at the same location during the day between 2pm and 3pm.

Buses to Shílín (¥38, two hours, every 30 minutes, 7am to 7.30pm) leave from Kūnmíng’s east bus station.

Hēijǐng 黑井

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Time-warped Hēijǐng (黑井) has been known for salt production for centuries and is still an important producer of the ‘white gold', as well as home to a sizeable Hui Muslim community. Hēijǐng has retained much of its period architecture and is a great place to wander for a day or two, marvelling at the old gates, temples and shady narrow alleys. The village makes a fine stopping-off point if you want to take the route less travelled between Dàlǐ and Kūnmíng.

1Sights

The ¥30 entry fee at the main gate (a couple of kilometres before the village) includes admission to Dàlóng Cí (大龙祠; the clan meeting hall) and Gǔyán Fáng (古盐坊; an old salt production facility). The latter offers brief descriptions of the history of salt production, although none in English. You can find it by walking east from the village for about 15 minutes. A few old salt wells can also be inspected, look out for the Black Cow Well (黑牛井; Hēiniú Jǐng), just south of Dàlóng Cí.

Wu Family CourtyardHISTORIC BUILDING

(武家大院; Wǔjiā Dàyuàn %0878 489 0358)

The best-known courtyard in town was once owned by local salt magnate Wu Weiyang, who was summarily executed by communist forces in 1949. You can walk around the courtyard, or take tea here.

4Sleeping

Wang Family CourtyardINN$

(王家大院; Wángjiā Dàyuàn %0878 489 0506; r ¥80; W)

A family-run guesthouse, the rooms here are set around a pleasant courtyard. They're not huge and the bathrooms are simple (squat toilets), but it's a peaceful place and the courtyard is perfect for stargazing come nightfall.

Wénmiào Zhuàngyuán JiǔdiànHISTORIC HOTEL$$

(文庙状元酒店 %0878 604 3366; tw ¥368; aW)

The setting is historic – this new place is located inside the remains of the town's Confucious Temple, parts of which are still standing – but the hotel itself is a modern block with big, comfortable rooms and the best bathrooms in town.

8Information

A small tourist information office near the first bridge can point the way to the various sites.

8Getting There & Away

The best option to reach Hēijǐng is local train number 6162 (¥11.50, three hours), departing Kūnmíng at 7.10am and arriving at 10.10am. The train stops a couple of kilometres from the village but horse-drawn buggies and minivans (¥3 to ¥5 per person) meet the train to make the journey here. Going the other way, train 6161 departs at 1.34pm and reaches Kūnmíng at 5.30pm.

The alternative is to take the bus from Kūnmíng or Dàlǐ to the county capital Chǔxióng (楚雄). From Chǔxióng's main bus station, take a taxi (¥9) to the east bus station (东客运站; dōng kèyùnzhàn), where there are buses to Hēijǐng (¥19, 2½ hours) every hour between 9am and 3.50pm. From Hēijǐng, buses to Chǔxióng leave from outside the market at the end of the village from 6.40am to 2.30pm.

Jiànshuǐ 建水

%0873 / Pop 17,400

Jiànshuǐ (建水) is a charming town of old buildings (surrounded by a much larger modern city), an enormous Confucian temple, a cave laden with swallows, and some of the best steam-pot cooking and barbecue you’ll find in Yúnnán. The architecture is constantly being ‘facelifted’, but still retains much of its distinct character, and the locals, who are a mix of Han, Hui and Yi, are friendly.

History

Known in ancient times as Bùtóu or Bādiàn (巴甸), Jiànshuǐ’s history dates back to the Western Jin period, when it was under the auspices of the Ningzhou kingdom. It was handed around to other authorities until its most important days as part of the Tonghai Military Command of the Nanzhao kingdom. The Yuan dynasty established what would eventually become the contemporary town.

1Sights

Classic architecture surrounds you here, and not just in the old-style back alleys. Virtually every main street has a historically significant traditional structure. The architecture is especially intriguing because of the obvious mixture of central plains and local styles. Many old buildings, despite official decrees positing them as state treasures, have been co-opted for other purposes and the trick – and the fun – is trying to find them.

You can buy a ¥133 through ticket (通票; tōngpiào) that gets you into the Confucian Temple, the Zhu Family Garden and Swallow’s Cavern. It’s on sale at any of those places.

Confucian TempleCONFUCIAN TEMPLE

(文庙; Wénmiào GOOGLE MAP ; Lin'an Lu, 临安路 ¥60; h8am-6.30pm)

Jiànshuǐ’s most famous temple was modelled after the temple in Confucius’ hometown of Qūfù (Shāndōng province) and finished in 1285; it covers 7.5 hectares and is the third-largest Confucian temple in China. (Some locals employ a flurry of Byzantine mathematics to prove it’s the largest; either way, Xué Lake, around which it sits, uses the Chinese word for ‘sea’ in its name!)

Zhu Family GardenHISTORIC SITE

(朱家花园; Zhūjiā Huāyuán GOOGLE MAP ; Hanlin Jie, 翰林街 ¥50; h8am-10pm)

This spacious 20,000-sq-metre complex, a fascinating example of Qing-era one-upping-the-Joneses, comprises ancestral buildings, family homes, ponds and lovely gardens, and took 30 years to build. The Zhu family made its name through its mill and tavern, and dabbled in everything from tin in Gèjiù to opium in Hong Kong, eventually falling victim to the political chaos following the 1911 revolution.

Cháoyáng GateHISTORIC SITE

(朝阳搂; Cháoyáng Lóu GOOGLE MAP ; ¥20; h8am-10pm)

Newly refurbished, Cháoyáng Gate is an imposing Ming edifice that guards the entrance to the old town. Modelled on the Yellow Crane Tower in Wǔhàn and the Yuèyáng Tower located at Dòngtíng Lake (洞庭湖; Dòngtíng Hú) in Húnán, it bears more than a passing resemblance to the Gate of Heavenly Peace in Běijīng. You can climb to the second storey for moderate views.

4Sleeping

There are guesthouses and inns scattered throughout the old town, as well as one hostel.

Typha Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(草芽青年旅舍; Cǎoyá Qīngnián Lǚshě GOOGLE MAP ; %0873 765 2451; yhajianshui@yahoo.com; 89 Ruyi Lane; 如意巷89号 10-/4-bed dm ¥30/40, d ¥70-90; aiW)

Under new management, this is a real hostel now with a cosy communal area, bike hire (¥30 per day) and sound travel advice: it's a good place to book a tour of the surrounding area. Dorms are clean and come with lockers, the private rooms are compact but OK.

To find it, walk 30m past the Confucian Temple and turn down an alley on the left-hand side of the road by 253 Lin'an Lu.

Lín’ān InnINN$$

(临安客栈; Lín’ān Kèzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0873 765 5866; linaninn@hotmail.com; 32 Hanlin Jie; 翰林街32号 d ¥228-328; aW)

In a prime location in the heart of the old town and with well-kept rooms, the biggest draw here is the great communal courtyard which is very pleasant for a beer in the evening. But the rooms are sizeable and well-maintained too. It rents bikes for ¥30 per day and can get small discounts on the entry fees to the main sights.

5Eating

Jiànshuǐ is legendary for its qìguō (汽锅), a stew often infused with medicinal herbs and served in earthenware pots. Expect to pay ¥40 to ¥50 per pot. Jiànshuǐ is also famous for barbecue (烧烤; shāokǎo), and you’ll find many cubbyhole restaurants grilling away.

Āmáo Qīngzhēn ShāokǎoYUNNAN$

(阿毛清真烧烤 GOOGLE MAP ; %134 0892 7657; Shuyuan Jie; 书院街 barbecue skewers from ¥2; h6pm-2am)

This is the place to eat fine barbecue underneath the stars. Everything – fish, meat, veggies, tofu – is on display, so just pick and choose. It also does the coveted mǐxiàn (米线; rice noodles) from ¥7. It's tucked down an alley off Hanlin Jie close to the Zhu Family Garden: everyone knows it.

8Getting There & Away

Jiànshuǐ has a couple of bus stations. The main one is 3km north of Cháoyáng Gate. For very local destinations, you need to head to the Hóng Yùn bus station (红运客运站, Hóng Yùn Kèyùnzhàn) a few minutes’ walk west of the corner of Chaoyang Beilu and Beizheng Jie. A taxi from the main bus station to the old town is ¥7.

From the main station, there are buses continually leaving for Nánshà in Yuányáng (¥31, every 20 minutes, two to three hours, 6.30am to 6.40pm). For Xīnjiē and the rice terraces, there is one daily bus (¥43, three hours, 11.34am).

Frequent buses head to Kūnmíng (¥81, every 25 minutes, three to four hours, 7am to 9.30pm). There are two buses daily to Hékǒu (¥65, five hours, 7.26am and 8.10am). Buses to Jǐnghóng (¥225, eight to nine hours) depart at 1pm and 4pm.

Swallow’s Cavern 燕子洞

Swallow’s CavernCAVE

(燕子洞; Yànzǐ Dòng ¥80; h9am-5pm)

This freak of nature and ornithology is halfway between Jiànshuǐ and Gèjiù. The karst formations (the largest in Asia) are a lure, but what you'll want to see are the hundreds of thousands of swallows flying around in spring and summer. The cave is split into two – one high and dry, the other low and wet. The higher cave is so large that a three-storey pavilion and a tree fit inside.

Plank walkways link up; the Lú River runs through the lower cave for about 8km and you can tour the caverns in 'dragon-boats'.

There's no direct bus, but the ones bound for Méngzì, Kāiyuán or Gèjiù which don't take the expressway pass the cavern (¥11, one hour).

Yuányáng Rice Terraces 元阳梯田

%0873 / Pop 22,700

Picture hilltop villages, the only things visible above rolling fog and cloud banks, an artist’s palette of colours at sunrise and sunset, spirit-recharging treks through centuries-old rice-covered hills, with a few water buffalo eyeing you contentedly nearby. Yes, it’s hard not to become indulgent when describing these tītián (梯田; rice terraces), hewn from the rolling topography by the Hani throughout the centuries. They cover roughly 125 sq km and are one of Yúnnán’s most stunning sights.

Yuányáng (元阳) is actually split into two: Nánshà, the new town, and Xīnjiē, the old town an hour’s bus or minivan ride up a nearby hill. Either can be labelled Yuányáng, depending what map you use. Xīnjiē is the one you want, so make sure you get off there.

1Sights

The terraces around dozens of outlying villages have their own special characteristics, often changing with the daylight. Bilingual maps are available at all hotels in town. Bear in mind that the tītián are at their most extraordinary in winter when they are flooded with water which the light bounces off in spectacular fashion. Avoid visiting at Chinese public holidays, when prices for minibuses go sky-high (¥600 and more per day).

A combined ¥100 ticket gets you access to Duōyīshù, Bádá, Quánfúzhuāng and Měngpǐn.

Duōyīshù Rice TerraceHILL

(多依树梯田; Duōyīshù Tītián )

Located about 25km from Xīnjiē, this rice terrace has the most awesome sunrises and, of all those at Yuányáng, is the one you should not miss.

Měngpǐn Rice TerraceHILL

(勐品梯田; Měngpǐn Tītián )

Among the rice terraces at Yuányáng, Měngpǐn, also known as Lǎohǔzuǐ (老虎嘴), is one of the most mesmerising places to watch the sunset.

Quánfúzhuāng Rice TerraceHILL

(全福庄梯田; Quánfúzhuāng Tītián )

Quánfúzhuāng is a less-crowded alternative to Duōyīshù and has easy access via trails that reach the terraces.

Bàdá Rice TerraceHILL

(坝达梯田; Bàdá Tītián )

Bàdá is one of the finest rice terraces at Yuányáng to catch a sunset.

4Sleeping & Eating

Xīnjiē and Pǔgāolǎo are where most hotels and guesthouses are. Of the two places, Pǔgāolǎo is by far the nicer place to stay.

Almost all restaurants are concentrated in Xīnjiē. In Pǔgāolǎo, all guesthouses serve meals, although they can be pricey.

8Getting There & Away

Xīnjiē is the main transport hub for Yuányáng, with daily buses from the bus station to and from Kūnmíng, Jiànshuǐ and Hékǒu, as well as minivans to the surrounding villages. There are also many buses to the same destinations from Nánshà, an hour away from Xīnjiē by minivan.

While buses run to all the villages from the bus station, you are much better off arranging your own transport, or hooking up with other travellers to split the cost of a sunrise or sunset drive. Minivans and motor-rickshaws congregate around Yúntī Shùnjié Dàjiǔdiàn and on the street west of the bus station. Expect to pay ¥400 to ¥500 in peak season for a minivan. Less comfortable motor-rickshaws can be got for ¥250.

Xīnjiē 新街

%0873 / Pop 15,000

Xīnjiē (新街) is a bit grubby, but makes a useful base for exploring the Yuányáng Rice Terraces (元阳梯田). The bus station is a minute’s walk from Titian Sq, the town’s hub.

4Sleeping & Eating

You're not spoiled for choice here, with only a couple of budget and midrange hotels in the centre of town. There are a number of places around the bus station where rooms can be found for ¥40 and up.

Yǐngyǒuliàn JiǔdiànHOTEL$

(影友恋酒店 %159 8737 4367; caihuimei2006@163.com; r ¥33-80; W)

It's basic (the price is a clue), but some rooms have Western toilets and the wi-fi connection is strong. Owner Belinda speaks good English and is helpful when it comes to arranging transport to the outlying villages. To get here, walk up the road from the bus station for five minutes and it's on your left.

Yúntī Shùnjié DàjiǔdiànHOTEL$

(云梯顺捷大酒店 %0873 562 1588; Xīnjiē; d ¥188; W)

Just off Titian Sq and a few minutes from the bus station, this place is the best of the centrally located hotels with clean and compact rooms. Wi-fi, though, is only available in the lobby. Prices go up during festival periods.

7Shopping

Window of YuányángARTS & CRAFTS

(%0873 562 3627)

Do visit this place, down the steps from the main square (on the 2nd floor of a building on your right). Staff here work in sustainable economic development in local villages. Volunteers are very friendly and helpful. Great locally produced items are here too (not to mention coffee!).

8Information

Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国农业银行; Zhōngguó Nóngyè Yínháng )

Has an ATM that sometimes takes foreign cards: don't rely on it. To find it, head down the stairs by the entrance to Yúntī Shùnjié Dàjiǔdiàn and walk on for a couple of minutes; it’s on the left-hand side.

8Getting There & Away

There are four buses daily from Kūnmíng to Yuányáng (¥139, seven hours, 10.20am, 11am, 12.30pm and 6.30pm); these return at 9.05am, 12.30pm and 6.30pm (although the 12.30pm bus sometimes doesn't run in low season). Other destinations include Hékǒu (¥59, four hours, 7.30am and 10.10am) and Jiànshuǐ (¥44, three hours, one daily, 4.30pm). Note that many more buses run to Jiànshuǐ from nearby Nánshà. There are frequent minivans to Nánshà (¥10, one hour) from outside the bus station.

To forge on to Xīshuāngbǎnnà, catch any minivan to Nánshà, where there's a daily bus in high season (October to March) to Jǐnghóng at 3.30pm (¥178, eight hours). Otherwise, you have to backtrack to Jiànshuǐ and catch the twice-daily Jǐnghóng sleepers (¥225, 1pm and 4pm) from there.

From Xīnjiē, minivans leave when full to Duōyīshù’s Pǔgāolǎo village for ¥15.

Pǔgāolǎo 普高老

%0873 / Pop 780

Increasing numbers of travellers are now basing themselves in picturesque Pǔgāolǎo (普高老) in Duōyīshù (多依树), a Hani village an hour by minivan from Xīnjiē. The rice terraces are all around you here and when not gazing out on them, you can experience something of traditional village life as you dodge the water buffalo, chickens and pigs that wander the stone paths of the village. It's a perfect place for catching the sunrise from the roof of your guesthouse.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a growing number of guesthouses in the village, ranging from the basic to the comfortable. Dorm beds can be got from ¥35 and up. Almost all places have roof terraces to watch the sunrise and sunset.

Belinda's Backpackers GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(影友漫步客栈; Yǐngyǒumànbù Kèzhàn %159 8737 4367; caihuimei2006@163.com; dm/d ¥35/120; W)

Like her operation in Xīnjiē, Belinda's guesthouse in Pǔgāolǎo is a little rough and ready, but the roof terrace offers solid views, the private rooms have Western toilets and Belinda's tours of the area – little-visited villages especially – get good feedback. It's at the top of the village, behind the K2 hostel.

K2 International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(K2国际青年旅舍; K2 Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %137 6949 8158; k2yha@163.com; Pǔgāolǎo Village; dm ¥40, d ¥120-130; W)

The dorms here have good beds, but their bathrooms come with squat toilets. Private rooms have Western toilets and are spartan but clean. The roof terrace here offers OK views. The hostel is at the top of the village, close to the parking area.

Timeless Hostel YuanyangHOSTEL$

(久居丽江客栈; Jiǔ Jū Yuányáng Kèzhàn %153 6837 6718; yuangyang.timeless@gmail.com; Pǔgāolǎo Village; dm/d ¥45/148; nW)

In the heart of the village, with fresh dorms and rooms, a roof terrace with decent views, an amenable communal area and English-speaking staff. Bikes can be hired for ¥30 per day and staff can offer advice on potential hiking routes, as well as organise transport to other villages.

8Getting There & Away

Minivans (¥15 per person, one hour) leave from outside Xīnjiē's bus station from 6.30am to 6pm. They return to Xīnjiē on the the same schedule and can be hailed on the main road.

Xiàguān 下关

%0872 / Pop 367,122

Xiàguān (下关), on the southwest shore of Ěrhǎi Lake (Ěrhǎi Hú), is a transport hub for travellers headed to Dàlǐ, a few kilometres further up the highway. Confusingly, Xiàguān is sometimes referred to as Dàlǐ (大理) on tickets, maps and buses.

There's no reason to stay in Xiàguān – you only need to come here to catch a bus or train (or to extend a visa). If you're waiting for a bus and need to eat, the roads by or close to the two main bus stations – Renmin Zhonglu and Nan Jian Lu – are jammed with restaurants all offering similar menus.

8Information

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng Jianshe Donglu; h9am-5pm)

Changes money and travellers cheques, and has an ATM that accepts all major credit cards.

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú %0872 214 2149; Tai’an Lu; h8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)

Handles all visa extensions for Xiàguān and Dàlǐ. Take bus 8 from Dàlǐ and ask to get off at the Shi Ji Middle School (世纪中学; Shìjì Zhōngxué).

8Getting There & Away

Air

Xiàguān’s airport is 15km from the town centre. Buy air tickets online or at an agency in Old Dàlǐ. Seven flights leave daily for Kūnmíng (from ¥430) and one to Xīshuāngbǎnnà (from ¥510).

No public buses run to the airport; taxis will cost ¥50 from Xiàguān or ¥100 from Dàlǐ.

Bus

Xiàguān has four bus stations. The Dàlǐ express bus station (kuàisù kèyùnzhàn) is on Nan Jian Lu. The second main station used by travellers is the Xīngshèng bus station (also called the gǎo kuài kèyùnzhàn). To find it, turn left out of the the express bus station and walk up to the main road and then turn right and it's 200m ahead of you. The third station of interest is the north bus station (běi kèyùnzhàn) on Dali Lu, which is reached by bus 8 (¥2) or a ¥10 taxi ride.

Remember that when departing, the easiest way to Kūnmíng or Lìjiāng is to get a bus from Old Dàlǐ.

The following departures are from the Dàlǐ express bus station:

AChǔxióng ¥75, 2½ hours, every 40 minutes (7.40am to 6.40pm)

AFúgòng ¥128, eight hours, one daily (11.30am)

AKūnmíng ¥127, four to five hours, every 30 minutes (8am to 6pm)

ALiùkù ¥88, five hours, hourly (7.20am to 3.20pm)

AMángshì (Lùxī) ¥127, six to eight hours, four daily (10am, 11.30am, 1pm and 7.30pm)

ARuìlì ¥161 to ¥185, eight hours, three daily (8.30am, 3pm and 7.30pm)

AYúnlóng (for Nuòdèng) ¥39, three hours, every 40 minutes (7.50am to 4.30pm)

The following departures are from the Xīngshèng bus station:

ABǎoshān ¥72, 2½ hours, every 40 minutes (7.50am to 7.20pm)

AKūnmíng ¥137, four to five hours, every 30 minutes (7.20am to 7.30pm)

ATéngchōng ¥126, six hours, three daily (10am, 1pm and 2pm)

AWēishān ¥15, 1½ hours, every 20 to 30 minutes (6.30am to 6pm)

Departures from the north bus station include:

AJiànchuān (for Shāxī) ¥45, three hours, every 45 minutes (6.25am to 6.50pm)

AShangri-la ¥106, seven hours, every 30 minutes (6.30am to noon)

If you want to head to Jǐnghóng (¥221, 15 hours, 8.20am, 9.40am and 11am), you need the east bus station (dōng kèyùnzhàn) by the train station, which also serves destinations on the east side of Ěrhǎi Lake such as Shuāngláng and Wāsè.

Buses to Old Dàlǐ (¥2, 35 minutes) leave from a number of locations. Bus 8 (¥2, 35 minutes) runs from Jianshe Lu, close to both the express and Xīngshèng bus stations, to a car park at the bottom of Yeyu Lu in Dàlǐ. Bus 4 runs from the centre of Xiàguān past Dàlǐ’s West Gate. There is also an unnumbered bus (¥2, 35 minutes) that leaves from the train station and passes Dàlǐ’s West Gate. If you want to be sure, ask for Dàlǐ gǔchéng (Dali old city).

Tickets for nearly all destinations can be booked in Dàlǐ and this is often the easiest way to do it as it will save you a trip to Xiàguān (although you will pay a service fee of ¥10 to ¥15).

Train

There are nine trains daily from Kūnmíng’s main train station (hard seat/sleeper ¥64/97, six to seven hours, 9.40am to 11.30pm). Returning to Kūnmíng, there are eight daily trains (10.04am to 11.39pm). There are eight trains daily to Lìjiāng (¥34 to ¥49, two to three hours, 4.37am to 5.38pm).

Wēishān 巍山

%0872 / Pop 20,700

Some 55km or so south of Xiàguān, Wēishān (巍山) is the heart of a region populated by Hui and Yi. It was once the nucleus of the powerful Nanzhao kingdom, and from here the Hui rebel Du Wenxiu led an army in revolt against the Qing in the 19th century.

Today, it’s an attractive and relaxed small town of narrow streets lined with traditional wooden houses, with drum and bell towers at strategic points and a lovely backdrop of the surrounding hills. It's still unspoiled and largely off the traveller map, but a few refugees from Dàlǐ have now begun moving here to open businesses. In the next few years, Wēishān is likely to develop fast as a tourist destination, so get here now before everyone else arrives.

1Sights

The town’s central point is the unmistakable Gǒngcháng Tower (拱长楼; Gǒngcháng Lóu ). South from here you’ll come first to Xīnggǒng Tower (星拱楼; Xīnggǒng Lóu ), and then on the right-hand side of the street to Mēnghuà Old Home (蒙化老家; Mēnghuà Lǎojiā ¥10; h8.30am-9pm), the town's best-preserved slice of architecture. Make sure to check out the town's sizeable and well-preserved Confucius Temple (文庙; Wénmiào h8am-7pm): turn right at Xīnggǒng Tower and follow West Street around to find it.

Wēibǎo ShānMOUNTAIN

(巍宝山; Wēibǎo Mountain ¥60)

Eminently worthy Wēibǎo Shān, about 10km south of Wēishān, has a relatively easy hike to its peak at around 2500m. During the Ming and Qing dynasties it was the zenith of China’s Taoism, and you’ll find some superb Taoist murals; the most significant are at Wénchāng Gōng (文昌宫, Wénchāng Palace) and Chángchún Cave (长春洞, Chángchún Dòng). Birders in particular love the mountain; the entire county is a node on an international birding flyway.

There are no buses here. Head to the street running east of Gǒngcháng Lóu in Wēishān to pick up a microvan to the mountain, or ask your hotel to arrange one. Expect to pay ¥80 to ¥100 for the round trip; you’ll need the driver to wait for you.

4Sleeping & Eating

A few hotels are scattered around the centre of town.

Línyè BīnguǎnHOTEL$

(林业宾馆 %0872 612 0761; 24 Xi Xin Jie; 西新街24号 d ¥100; aW)

A hop, skip and a jump from Gǒngcháng Lóu, with big and well-kept rooms and a strong wi-fi connection. It’s a ¥5 ride from the bus station in a motor-rickshaw.

BáilùyuánGUESTHOUSE$$$

(白露原 %157 527 98896; 19 Bei Jie; 北街19号 r ¥580; W)

Out front this is a lovely teahouse, which also serves coffee and juices, but out back you can stay in effectively what is your own little courtyard home, with a small garden and a very comfortable and tastefully decorated bedroom.

Yùfēng CāntīngYUNNAN$$

(裕丰餐厅 Xixin Jie; 西新街 dishes from ¥10; h8.30am-10pm)

Excellent locals hang out, with fine veggies and tofu. There's no English menu, but everything is on display and the staff will do their best to help you out.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Yàn CafeCAFE

(焱咖啡; Yàn Kāfēi %189 8707 0696; Bei Jie; 北街 coffee & tea from ¥20; h11am-10.30pm; W)

Just down the street from Xīnggǒng Tower is this laid-back little cafe run by a former Dàlǐ resident and her musician husband. Proper coffee and tea, as well as fruit shakes and beer. For now, it's the only place in town like it.

8Getting There & Away

Xiàguān’s Xīngshèng bus station has buses to Wēishān (¥15, 1½ hours, every 20 to 30 minutes, 6.30am to 6pm). They return to Xiàguān from 6.30am.

Dàlǐ 大理

%0872 / Pop 40,000

Dàlǐ (大理), the original backpacker hang-out in Yúnnán, was once the place to chill, with its stunning location sandwiched between mountains and Ěrhǎi Lake. Loafing here for a couple of weeks was an essential part of the Yúnnán experience.

In recent years, domestic tourists have discovered Dàlǐ in a big way and the scene has changed accordingly. Instead of dreadlocked Westerners, it's young Chinese who walk around with flowers in their hair. Still, Dàlǐ has not been overwhelmed by visitors like nearby Lìjiāng and remains a reasonably relaxed destination, with the local Bai population very much part of daily life.

Surrounding Dàlǐ there are fascinating possibilities for exploring, especially by bicycle and in the mountains above the lake, or you can do what travellers have done for years – eat, drink and make merry.

History

Dàlǐ lies on the western edge of Ěrhǎi Lake at an altitude of 1900m, with a backdrop of the imposing 4000m-tall Cāng Shān (Green Mountains). For much of the five centuries in which Yúnnán governed its own affairs, Dàlǐ was the centre of operations, and the old city retains a historical atmosphere that is hard to come by in other parts of China.

The main inhabitants of the region are the Bai, who number about 1.5 million and are thought to have settled the area some 3000 years ago. In the early 8th century they succeeded in defeating the Tang imperial army before establishing the Nanzhao kingdom, which lasted until the Mongol hordes arrived in the mid-13th century.

Dàlǐ

1Sights

1Dàlǐ Catholic ChurchC3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Climb DàlǐA3

3Rice & FriendsB5

4Sleeping

4Dàlǐ Spoor Youth HostelC2

5Dragonfly GuesthouseC1

6Five ElementsA4

7Four Seasons Travelling With HotelD2

8Jade EmuA4

9Jim's Tibetan HotelB5

10Sleepyfish LodgeD1

5Eating

11Birdbar CafeA3

12Cāng Ěr ChūnB3

13CháimǐduōC2

14Duan's KitchenD2

15Good PandaB3

16Lovely Lotus Delicious VegetarianB3

17SerendipityB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

18Bad MonkeyB3

7Shopping

19Mandarin Books & CDsA3

1Sights

Dàlǐ Catholic ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Renmin Lu)

It's worth checking out Dàlǐ’s Catholic Church. Dating back to 1927, it's a unique mix of Bai-style architecture and classic European church design. Mass is held here every Sunday at 9.30am.

Three PagodasPAGODA

(三塔寺; Sān Tǎ Sì admission ¥120; h8.30am-6.30pm)

Absolutely the symbol of the town and region, these pagodas, a 2km walk north of the north gate, are among the oldest standing structures in southwestern China. The tallest of the three, Qiānxún Pagoda, has 16 tiers that reach a height of 70m. It was originally erected in the mid-9th century by engineers from Xī’ān. It is flanked by two smaller 10-tiered pagodas, each of which are 42m high.

While the price is cheeky considering you can’t go inside the pagodas, Chóngshèng Temple (Chóngshèng Sì) behind them has been restored and converted into a relatively worthy museum.

2Activities

Climb DàlǐCLIMBING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %131 5064 4701; www.climbdali.com; 20 Renmin Lu)

This outfit runs active adventures around Dàlǐ, including rock climbing, mountaineering, kayaking and rafting trips. Contact Adam Kritzer.

CCourses

Rice & FriendsCOOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %151 2526 4065; www.riceandfriends.com)

Recommended cooking school that includes trips to markets to purchase ingredients and tips on preparation, as well as cooking classes.

TTours

China Minority TravelCULTURAL

(%138 8723 5264; chinaminoritytravel@gmail.com)

Henriette, a Dutch expat, can offer a long list of trips, including tours to Muslim and Yi minority markets as well as through remote areas of Yúnnán and Guìzhōu.

Zouba ToursBICYCLE TOUR, HIKING

(%152 8814 5939; www.zoubatours.com)

Bike tours and treks to the less-visited parts of Yúnnán.

Tibet Motorcycle AdventuresMOTORCYCLE TOUR

(%151 8499 9452; www.tibetmoto.de)

Motorbikes can be rented for ¥150 per day and tours (although not to Tibet) arranged. Contact Hendrik Heyne.

zFestivals & Events

Third Moon FairCULTURAL

(三月节; Sānyuè Jié )

Merrymaking – along with endless buying, selling and general horse-trading (but mostly partying) – takes place during the Third Moon Fair, which begins on the 15th day of the third lunar month (usually April) and ends on the 21st day.

Three Temples FestivalCULTURAL

(绕三灵; Ràosān Líng )

The Three Temples Festival is held between the 23rd and 25th days of the fourth lunar month (usually May).

Torch FestivalCULTURAL

(火把节; Huǒbǎ Jié )

The Torch Festival is held on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month (normally July) and is likely to be the best photo op in the province. Flaming torches are paraded at night through homes and fields. Locals throw pine resin at the torches causing minor explosions everywhere. According to one local guesthouse owner, ‘it’s total madness’.

4Sleeping

There’s heaps of accommodation in Dàlǐ, but the popular places fill up quickly during peak summer months. Increasingly, the most in-demand guesthouses are located just outside the west gate of the old town, or close to the east gate.

oJade EmuHOSTEL$

(金玉缘中澳国际青年旅舍; Jīnyùyuán Zhōng’ào Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 267 7311; www.jade-emu.com; West Gate Village; 西门村 dm ¥25-40, d ¥128-298; aiW)

Smack in the shadow of Cāng Shān and now spread over four buildings, the Jade Emu sets the standard for hostels in Dàlǐ and elsewhere with its attention to detail. The dorms are more comfortable than most and the private rooms are spacious, clean and bright, while the new boutique annexe is perfect for flashpackers. Staff are efficient and friendly.

Dragonfly GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(清亭国际青年旅舍; Qīngtíng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 250 4255; www.dalidragonfly.com; 200 Pingdeng Rd; 平等路200号 6-/4-bed dm ¥35/40, s ¥110/148; aiW)

This newish guesthouse gets rave reviews, and the dorm beds are certainly some of the most comfortable in Dàlǐ. But all the rooms are sizeable and have decent bathrooms, while there's a roof terrace with views towards the lake and mountains and a basic restaurant. It's 15 minutes' walk from the centre of town at the northern end of Yeyu Lu.

Dàlǐ Spoor Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(大理十步国际青年旅舍; Dàlǐ Shíbù Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 251 4476; yhaspoor@163.com; 121 Yeyu Lu; 叶榆路121号 dm ¥35-40, s ¥80, d ¥110-190; aiW)

The anonymous white exterior doesn't promise much, but there's an attractive garden courtyard here. The four-bed dorms are cramped, but the private rooms are a reasonable size and well-maintained and the bathrooms OK. It sees mostly Chinese travellers, but some English is spoken.

Four Seasons Travelling With HotelHOTEL$

(四季客栈; Sìjì Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 267 4507; 428 Renmin Lu; 人民路428号 s ¥58, d ¥138-248; aW)

With a large, interior courtyard, this place has a mix of rooms with the cheapest being on the roof terrace, which offers fine views towards the surrounding mountains. Singles are small, but all the rooms are modern and some have beds raised off the floor. The staff speak some English and you can rent a bike for ¥20 a day.

Sleepyfish LodgeHOSTEL$

(大理乐游客栈; Dàlǐ Lèyóu Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 267 8040; www.sleepyfishlodge.com; Yu'er Lu; 玉洱路东 dm ¥50, d ¥248-288; W)

Well away from Dàlǐ's main tourist strip near Dongmen, Sleepyfish is all about peace and quiet. Rooms lack TVs, but come with balconies overlooking a garden and are a big step up from the more functional dorms. It's close to the east gate, down an alley off the right-hand side of Yu Er Lu just before the ornamental gate: signs point the way.

Bike-hire is available from ¥25 a day; you may need one as it's a good 20 minute walk to the centre of town.

Five ElementsHOSTEL$

(五行国际客栈; Wǔ Xíng Guójì Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %130 9985 0360; fiveelementsdali@gmail.com; 西门村; West Gate Village 6-/4-bed dm ¥30/45, d ¥80-260; aiW)

This place has a popular following with backpackers, thanks to the low prices and friendly vibe. Dorms need more storage space but are reasonably sized, while the private rooms are a decent deal for the price. The best are very comfortable and set around a pleasant garden where the manager grows organic veggies. Bike hire is ¥30 per day.

Jim’s Tibetan HotelHOTEL$$

(吉姆和平酒店; Jímǔ Hépíng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 267 7824; jimstibetanhotel@gmail.com; 13 Yuxiu Lu; 玉秀路13号 d ¥300-500; aW)

The rooms here are some of the most distinctive in Dàlǐ, coming with Tibetan motifs and packed with antique Chinese-style furniture, even if the bathrooms are looking their age now. There’s also a garden, rooftop terrace, restaurant and bar. Travel services and tours can be booked, while bikes and scooters can be hired.

5Eating

Bai food makes use of local flora and fauna – many of which are unrecognisable! Specialities include rǔbǐng (goat’s cheese) and ěr kuài (饵块; toasted rice ‘cakes’). Given the proximity of Ěrhǎi Lake, try shāguō yú (沙锅鱼), a claypot fish casserole/stew made from salted Ěrhǎi Lake carp – and, as a Bai touch, magnolia petals.

Lovely Lotus Delicious VegetarianCHINESE$

(爱莲说素膳; Ài Lián Shuō Sùshàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 533 7737; B2, Jiulongju, west side of Fuxing Lu; 复兴路西侧九隆居B2号 buffet ¥20; h11.30am-1.30pm & 6-8pm; v)

No menu here; instead you choose from a tempting buffet of all-vegetarian dishes. It bustles at lunchtimes and there's a small outside area to eat at. It's just off Boai Lu on the right-hand side of a forecourt.

Good PandaYUNNAN$

(妙香园; Miàoxiāng Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 81 Renmin Lu; 人民路81号 dishes from ¥18; h9am-10pm)

Surrounded by Western-style restaurants, this is a more local joint and a good introduction to classic Dàlǐ eats like sizzling beef (tíebǎn niúròu) and crispy carp (jiànchuān gānshāo yú), plus Yúnnán-wide food and some Sìchuān dishes. There’s a limited English menu, but some English is spoken and you can point at the vegetables that look best.

oDuan's KitchenYUNNAN$$

(小段厨房; Xiǎoduàn Chúfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %153 0872 7919; 12 Renmin Lu; 人民路12号 dishes from ¥38; h11am-2pm & 5.30-9pm; W)

Now so popular that you can expect to queue for a table, this place is set around a cosy and cute courtyard. The dishes are an interpretation of Bai cuisine rather than 100% the real deal, but the ingredients are absolutely local. It's at the far eastern end of Renmin Lu.

SerendipityAMERICAN$$

(大理美国小馆; Dàlǐ Měiguó Xiǎoguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 53 Guangwu Lu; 广武路53号 mains from ¥38; h8am-11.30pm; W)

Busy, American-run diner with a traditional counter to sit around and a solid menu of properly cooked burgers, steaks, pasta and salad, as well as hefty, top-notch breakfasts. Some outdoor seating on an alley that is rather quieter than Dàlǐ's main drag.

Cāng Ěr ChūnYUNNAN$$

(苍洱春 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 48 Renmin Lu; 人民路48号 dishes from ¥18; h11am-11pm)

A little more expensive than some other Bai restaurants and slightly brusque service, but the food is worthwhile and authentic: the locals like it. The rǔbǐng (乳饼; goat’s cheese) is especially good here.

Birdbar CafeJAPANESE$$

(鸟吧咖啡馆; Niǎoba Kāfēi Guǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 250 1902; www.flightdiary.com; 20 Renmin Lu; 人民路20号 dishes from ¥28; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; W)

There's a great, sun-filled upstairs area to lounge in over a coffee, tea or beer, while the menu mixes Western, Chinese and Japanese cuisine (all organic). The breakfasts are an especially good deal, as are the set meals (from ¥48).

CháimǐduōINTERNATIONAL$$$

(柴米多 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 204 Yeyu Lu; 叶榆路204号 mains & breakfast from ¥38, tapas from ¥18; h9.30am-10pm; Wc)

Iberian-Chinese fusion with a Spanish chef and all-organic ingredients sourced from their own farm outside Dàlǐ. All dishes are presented tapas-style. There's an open kitchen, artful, faux-rustic design and a large outside area to eat in (good for the kids). It's more expensive than many places in town, but the food is consistently good.

6Drinking & Nightlife

BackyardBAR

(后院酒吧; Hòuyuàn Jiǔbā GOOGLE MAP ; 27 Hongwu Lu; 洪武路27号 beers from ¥15; h6pm-late, closed Thu; W)

Dàlǐ's most laid-back and hidden away bar attracts locals and expats with a fine selection of foreign beers and alcohol and a bar set in a garden (hence the name). It shows live European football on the weekends, there's pool, table football and darts, and it serves the best chips and spaghetti bolognese in town.

To find it, turn right at the east gate and walk along Hongwu Lu for 300m. It's down a small alley to the right of a motor repair shop. Look for the light.

Bad MonkeyBAR

(坏猴子; Huài Hóuzi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %136 8882 4871; 59 Renmin Lu; 人民路59号 beers from ¥15; h9am-late; W)

The eternally happening, Brit-run Bad Monkey brews its own strong ales (from ¥30; the IPA packs a punch), has nightly live music and endless drink specials. There's also reasonable pub grub (pizzas, burgers and shepherd’s pie) and Sunday roast for ¥55. A couple of doors down is a second Bad Monkey, which is more of a music venue than a bar.

7Shopping

Dàlǐ is famous for its marble blue and white batik printed on cotton and silk. There are many clothes shops around Dàlǐ. Most can also make clothes to your specifications – which will come as a relief when you see how small some of the items of ready-made clothing are.

Maps and books can be found at Mandarin Books & CDs (五华书苑; Wǔhuá Shūyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huguo Lu, 护国路 h9.30am-9.30pm).

MARKETS AROUND DàLǐ

Travellers have a market to go to nearly every day of the week. Every Monday at Shāpíng (沙坪), about 30km north of Dàlǐ, there is a colourful Bai market (Shāpíng Gǎnjí). From 10am to 2.30pm you can buy everything from food products and clothing to jewellery and local batik.

Regular buses to Shāpíng (¥11, one hour) leave from just outside the west gate. By bike, it will take about two hours at a good clip.

Markets also take place in Shuāngláng (双廊; Tuesday), Shābā (沙坝; Wednesday), Yòusuǒ (右所; Friday morning, the largest in Yúnnán) and Jiāngwěi (江尾; Saturday). Xǐzhōu (喜州) and Zhōuchéng (州城) have daily morning and afternoon markets, respectively. Wāsè (挖色) also has a popular market every five days with trading from 9am to 4.30pm. Thanks to the lack of boats, travellers now have to slog to Xiàguān’s east bus station for buses to Wāsè (¥20).

Many guesthouses and hostels in Dàlǐ offer tours or can arrange transportation to these markets for around ¥150 for a half-day.

8Information

All hostels and guesthouses and many hotels offer travel advice, arrange tours and book tickets for onward travel. There are also numerous travel agencies and cafes that will book bus tickets and offer all manner of tours. They can be expensive unless you can get a group together.

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Fuxing Lu, 复兴路 )

Changes cash and travellers cheques, and has an ATM that accepts all major cards.

China PostPOST

(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Fuxing Lu & Huguo Lu, 复兴路护国路的路口 h8am-8pm)

Dàlǐ's main post office.

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú %0872 214 2149; Dàlǐ Rd; h8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)

Note that visas cannot be renewed in Dàlǐ; you have to go to Xiàguān.

8Getting There & Away

The golden rule: almost all buses advertised to Dàlǐ actually go to Xiàguān. Coming from Lìjiāng and Shangri-la, Xiàguān-bound buses stop at the eastern end of Dàlǐ to let passengers off before continuing on to Xiàguān's north bus station.

From Kūnmíng’s west bus station there are numerous buses to Dàlǐ (¥110 to ¥137, four to five hours, every 15 minutes from 7.20am to 8.20pm). Heading north, it’s easiest to pick up a bus on the roads outside the west or east gates; buy your ticket in advance from your guesthouse or a travel agent and they’ll make sure you get on the right one. (You could hail one yourself to save a surcharge but you’re not guaranteed a seat.)

From the old town (near the west gate) you can catch a 30-seat bus to Kūnmíng for ¥130; it runs seven times a day, departing 8.30am, 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm and 4.30pm. There are also frequent buses from the old town to Lìjiāng (¥85) and Shangri-la (¥117).

Buses run regularly to Shāpíng (¥11), Xǐzhōu (¥7) and other local destinations from outside the west gate.

8Getting Around

From Dàlǐ, a taxi to Xiàguān airport takes 45 minutes and costs around ¥100; to Xiàguān’s train station it costs ¥50.

Bikes are the best way to get around and can be hired at numerous places from ¥25 to ¥40 per day. Try Dàlǐ Bicycle Club (大理自行车俱乐部; Dàlǐ Zìxíngchē Jùlèbù GOOGLE MAP ; 41 Boai Lu; h7.30am-8pm), which rents bikes and scooters.

Buses (¥2, 30 minutes, marked 大理) run between the old town and Xiàguān from as early as 6.30am; wait along the highway and flag one down. Bus 8 runs between Dàlǐ and central Xiàguān (¥2, 30 minutes), close to the express bus station and the Xīngshèng bus station. Bus 4 also travels between Dàlǐ and central Xiàguān (¥2, 30 minutes). There is also an unmarked bus that runs past the west gate to and from the train station every 15 minutes from 6.30am (¥2, 30 minutes).

Ěrhǎi Lake 洱海湖

Ěrhǎi Lake (洱海湖; Ěrhǎi Hú; 'Ear-Shaped' Lake) dominates the local psyche. The seventh-biggest freshwater lake in China, it sits at 1973m above sea level and covers 250 sq km; it’s also dotted with villages to visit and surrounded by trails perfect for bike rides.

1Sights

Cáicūn (才村), a pleasant little village east of Dàlǐ (¥1.50 on bus 2), is the nexus of lake transport. All boat travel is on ‘official’ vessels. Expect to pay ¥180 for a three-hour trip, although you can normally haggle that down to ¥120 in low season.

If you want to head to the east side of the lake, bargain for a boat to take you to Tiānjìng Gé (天镜阁), from where you can pick up a bus to Wāsè or Shuāngláng. You should pay no more than ¥100.

On the east side of the lake, the beautiful waterside town of Shuāngláng (双廊) is extremely popular with domestic tourists. The town is a labyrinth of winding old alleys and traditional homes sitting on a little peninsula that juts into the lake.

The other east-side highlight, close to Wāsè, is Pǔtuó Dǎo (普陀岛; Pǔtuó Island) and Lesser Pǔtuó Temple (小普陀寺; Xiǎopǔtuó Sì Pǔtuó Island; 普陀岛 ), set on an extremely photogenic rocky outcrop.

Nánzhào Customs IslandISLAND

(南诏风情岛; Nánzhào Fēngqíng Dǎo )

This pleasant island has gardens, parks, a 17.5m-tall marble statue of Avalokiteshvara (Chenresig; aka Guanyin) and a hotel. Boats to the island cost ¥50, the price includes admission.

2Activities

Roads encircle the lake so it is possible to do a loop (or partial loop) of the lake by mountain bike. A bike path goes from Cáicūn to Tǎo Yuán Port, which makes a great day trip (but most travellers turn around at Xīzhōu; 喜洲). Some hard-core cyclists continue right around the lake (the full loop is around 98km). The lack of boats means you’re looking at an overnight stay or an extremely long ride in one day.

4Sleeping

There are several guesthouses, as well as upmarket boutique hotels, in Cáicūn and Shuāngláng.

Sky & Sea LodgeGUESTHOUSE$

(海地生活; Haǐdì Shēnghuó %0872 246 1762; www.skysealodge.org; dm ¥40, d ¥120-1000; W)

Even the dorm at this peaceful lakeside hotel in Shuāngláng has decent views of Ěrhǎi Lake. Private rooms range from the functional to the swish, and most have balconies overlooking the lake. Friendly staff. You can’t take a taxi there so you’ll have to walk about 10 to 15 minutes through the village, ask locals to point the way.

NeverlandHOSTEL$

(牛背山国际青年旅舍; Niúbèishān Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0872 269 1677; Caicun Port; 才村码头 dm ¥35, d ¥108-228; aW)

On the street leading to the boat dock, close to where the bus drops you off, this hostel caters mostly to Chinese travellers, but is friendly, and the light-filled, spacious rooms are decent value. There's a communal area and it offers Western and Chinese dishes.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 2 runs from Dàlǐ to Cáicūn, (¥1.50, 15 minutes), where you can pick up boats around Ěrhǎi Lake. Alternatively, head to Xiàguān's east bus station, where you can find regular buses to Shuāngláng and Wāsè and other destinations on the east side of the lake.

Cāng Shān 苍山

The range of gorgeous peaks known as Cāng Shān (苍山) rises imposingly above Dàlǐ and offers the best legwork in the area. Most travellers head first for Zhōnghé Temple (中和寺; Zhōnghé Sì ), on the side of Zhōnghé Shān (中和山; Zhōnghé Mountain ¥40; h8am-6pm). At the temple, be careful of imposter monks passing out incense and then demanding ¥200 for a blessing.

1Sights & Activities

You can hike up the mountain, a sweaty two to three hours for those in moderately good shape (but note the warning that there have been several reports of robbery of solo walkers). Keep your eyes peeled for the elusive red panda, a number of which have been spotted here recently. Walk about 200m north of the chairlift (苍山索道; Cāng Shān Suǒdào ¥60 return) base to the riverbed. Follow the left bank for about 50m and walk through the cemetery, then follow the path zigzagging under the chairlift. When you reach some stone steps, you know you are near the top. This is but one of several paths to the temple.

Branching out from either side of Zhōnghé Temple is a trail that winds along the face of the mountains, taking you in and out of steep, lush valleys and past streams and waterfalls. From the temple, it’s a nice 11km walk south to Gǎntōng Temple (感通寺; Gǎntōng Sì ), Qīngbì Stream (清碧溪; Qīngbì Xī ) and/or Guānyīn Temple (观音堂; Guānyīn Táng ), from where you can continue to the road and pick up a Dàlǐ-bound bus. The path, called Jade Belt Road (玉带路; Yùdài Lù), is paved and easily walkable.

There’s also a cable car (感通寺索道; Gǎntōng Sì Suǒdào one way/return ¥50/80) between Qīngbì Stream and Gǎntōng Temple.

Alternatively, take the new cable car (洗马潭索道; Xǐmǎ Tán Suǒdào return ¥280) up to the Horse Washing Pond (洗马潭; Xǐ Mǎ Tán ), high in the mountain range, where Kublai Khan set up his base in the late 13th century. If you buy your ticket from your hostel, or online, you should get ¥50 off the price.

4Sleeping

Higherland InnINN

(高地旅馆; Gāodì Lǚguǎn %0872 266 1599; www.higherlandinn.com; dm ¥30, d ¥80-120)

Simple rooms, all with shared bathroom, high up in the Cāng Shān. There's also an artists studio here.

8Information

On hikes around Cāng Shān there have been several reports of robbery of solo walkers. As ever, watch your bags and possessions when on buses and trains.

8Getting There & Away

The starting point for Cāng Shān treks is walking distance from Dàlǐ.

Xǐzhōu 喜洲

%0872 / Pop 2,500

A trip to the old town of Xǐzhōu (喜洲) for a look at its well-preserved Bai architecture is lovely, and some travellers now make it their base for exploring the area around Dàlǐ.

4Sleeping & Eating

You can find beds for as little as ¥80, although you're just a 30 minute bus ride from Dàlǐ. The interesting town of Zhōuchéng (州城), 7km north of Xǐzhōu, also has basic accommodation.

Linden CentreHOTEL$$$

(喜林苑; Xǐ Lín Yuàn %0872 245 2988; www.linden-centre.com; 5 Chengbei; d/ste incl breakfast ¥980/1480; iW)

Traditional home turned into a very smart boutique hotel with 16 rooms. All are set around a courtyard, have balconies and come with antique furniture but modern bathrooms.

8Getting There & Away

You can catch a local bus (¥7) from the west gate in Dàlǐ, but a bicycle trip is also a good idea – although it's a long ride there and back.

Nuòdèng 诺邓

%0872 / Pop 1200

This anachronistic hamlet, oft-lauded as the ‘thousand-year-old’ village, has one of the highest concentrations of Bai in Yúnnán and some of the best preserved buildings in the entire province. Nuòdèng (诺邓) has managed to maintain traditional village life, with ponies and donkeys clomping up the steep flagstone streets past traditional mudbrick buildings with ornate gates, many of which date back to the Ming and Qing dynasties. It's a little busier than it was, but Nuòdèng is still very peaceful and a delightful place to kick back for a while.

1Sights

After crossing the bridge at the bottom of the village you’ll see one of the original salt wells, located inside a wooden shed. The town is built upon a steep hill and winding up through the alleys you’ll reach an impressive Confucian Temple (孔庙; Kǒngmiào), which today serves as the village primary school (check out the detailed frescos still visible on the ceiling). Further uphill is the picturesque 16th-century Yuhuang Pavillion (玉皇阁; Yùhuáng Gé).

Village life is centred on the small market square; a good place to catch some sun and gab with the local elders.

On the way to Nuòdèng village from Yúnlóng, the Bi River is forced by the surrounding hills into a serpentine roll that from above looks remarkably like a yin-yang symbol (Tàijítú; 太极图). You won’t notice this natural phenomenon from ground level; you need to go up to a viewing platform on the nearby hill. The road to the pavilion is 7km of endless switchbacks, a tedious and tiring hike, or you could hire a rickshaw to take you there and back for ¥60 to ¥80.

4Sleeping

There are a few guesthouses in the village, but locals also advertise beds in their houses for as little as ¥30.

Fùjiǎ LiúfāngyuànINN$

(复甲留方苑 %0872 572 3466; 502609@qq.com; dm ¥35, d ¥78-288; W)

Big rooms and sit-down toilets at this friendly, family-run guesthouse set around a lush garden of bougainvillea. The new annexe offers very comfortable rooms and a terrace that overlooks the village and is perfect for stargazing. It's right at the top of the village; call ahead and they'll come and meet you.

Luwo International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(驴窝驿国际青年旅舍; Lǘwōyì Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %137 2507 3636; 674766748@qq.com; dm ¥35, d with/without bathroom ¥128/78; W)

This hostel at the top of the village – follow the signs – has sizeable rooms set around a large courtyard. Thin mattresses but everything is clean, there's a separate bar area and the staff speak some English.

5Eating

oYán Quán NóngjiāYUNNAN$$

(盐泉农家 %0872 552 5111; dishes from ¥20; h11am-8pm)

The one genuine restaurant in the village is also one of the most famous in Yúnnán, after being featured on the hit Chinese TV show A Bite of China. People come from far and wide to sample huǒtuǐ (火腿; ¥40), a slightly salty cured ham that is the local speciality. And it tastes great, as do the all-natural veggies and tofu.

It's at the base of the village over a little bridge.

8Getting There & Away

Buses (¥39, three hours, every 40 minutes from 7.50am to 4.30pm) leave from Xiàguān’s express bus station to the sleepy county seat Yúnlóng (云龙), from where you can take a three-wheel rickshaw or minivan (¥30) the final 7km to Nuòdèng. Buses back to Xiàguān leave on a similar schedule; the final departure is at 4.30pm. At the time of writing there were no buses running to Lánpíng (兰坪), but if they start again you can change at Lánpíng for buses to Liùkù. There are also two daily buses to Kūnmíng (¥175 to ¥189; seven to eight hours, 9am and 10.30am).

Shāxī 沙溪

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The tiny hamlet of Shāxī (沙溪), 120km northwest of Dàlǐ, is an evocative throwback to the days of the Tea Horse Road. (You can almost hear the clippety-clop of horses’ hooves and shouts of traders.) It is one of only three surviving caravan oases that stretched from Yúnnán to India and is by far the best preserved – and the only one with a functioning market (Friday), when Bai and Yi villagers converge on the town. If you're here then, check out the animal trading down by the river.

The village’s wooden houses, courtyards and narrow, winding streets make it a popular location for period Chinese movies and TV shows, and there are ever-increasing numbers of domestic day trippers. However, this is still a wonderfully relaxed place where you can spend the night sitting by the river under a canopy of stars and listening to the frogs croaking in the rice paddies.

1Sights

Sideng Jie (寺登街) is the ancient town street leading off the main road. It’s about 300m downhill to the multifrescoed Xìngjiào Sì (兴教寺; Xìngjiào Temple Shiji Guangchang, 市集广场 ¥20; h9am-5pm), the only Ming dynasty Bai Buddhist temple. On the opposite side of the courtyard is the Three Terraced Pavilion (魁星阁; Kuíxīnggé Shiji Guangchang, 市集广场 ¥20; h9am-5pm), which has a prominent theatrical stage (古戏台; gǔxìtái), something of a rarity in rural Yúnnán. There is a small museum here, ask the guard at the temple for the key. The absolute highlight, however, is the Ōuyáng Courtyard (欧阳大院; Ōuyáng Dàyuàn off Sideng Jie; 寺登街 ), a superb example of three-in-one Bai folk architecture in which one wall protected three yards/residences. Sadly, most of it is currently closed to the public, although you can poke your head inside for a quick look.

Exit the east gate and head south along the Huì River (惠江; Huì Jiāng) for five minutes, cross the ancient Yùjīn Qiáo (玉津桥; Yùjīn Bridge), and you’re walking the same trail as the horse caravans. If you look hard enough, you’ll still be able to see hoofprints etched into the rock, or so the locals claim. Ponies can be rented for ¥40 an hour by the river, if you want to ride part of the trail yourself.

Otherwise, the main activity around town is walking. The guesthouses in town have maps that can get you started and keep you busy for days.

THE TEA HORSE ROAD

Less well-known than the Silk Road, but equally important in terms of trade and the movement of ideas, people and religions, the Tea Horse Road (茶马古道; Chámǎgǔdào) linked southwest China with India via Tibet. A series of caravan routes, rather than a single road, which also went through parts of Sìchuān, Myanmar (Burma), Laos and Nepal, the trails started deep in the jungle of Xīshuāngbǎnnà. They then headed north through Dàlǐ and Lìjiāng and into the thin air of the Himalayan mountains on the way to the Tibetan capital Lhasa, before turning south to India and Myanmar.

Although archaeological finds indicate that stretches of the different routes were in use thousands of years ago, the road really began life in the Tang dynasty (AD 618–907). An increased appetite for tea in Tibet led to an arrangement with the Chinese imperial court to barter Yúnnán tea for the prized horses ridden by Tibetan warriors. By the Song dynasty (AD 960–1279), 20,000 horses a year were coming down the road to China, while in 1661 alone some 1.5 million kilograms of tea headed to Tibet.

Sugar and salt were also carried by the caravans of horses, mules and yaks. Buddhist monks, Christian missionaries and foreign armies utilised the trails as well to move between Myanmar, India and China. In the 18th century the Chinese stopped trading for Tibetan horses and the road went into a slow decline. Its final glory days came during WWII, when it was a vital conduit for supplies from India for the Allied troops fighting the Japanese in China. The advent of peace and the communist takeover of 1949 put an end to the road.

4Sleeping

Waiting for ShāxīINN$

(沙溪古宇; Shāxī Gǔyǔ %0872 472 1877; Beiguzong Xiang; 北古宗巷 r ¥120; W)

The rooms aren't large at this traditional courtyard house, but they're comfortable enough with reasonable beds and are set around a small garden with a well. There's also a well-stocked bar.

Horsepen 46INN$

(马圈46客栈; Mǎjuàn Sìshīliù Kèzhàn %0872 472 2299; www.horsepen46.com; 46 Sideng Jie; 寺登街46号 dm ¥30, r ¥80-120; iW)

In-demand guesthouse with cute, compact rooms surrounding a sunny little courtyard. There’s a laid-back traveller vibe here with daily communal dinners (¥25). There's also free laundry, bike hire (¥20 per day) and the helpful English-speaking staff can organise hikes in the area. It's tucked away to the right of the stage in the village square.

Old Theatre InnGUESTHOUSE$$$

(戏台会馆; Xìtái Huìguǎn %0872 472 2296; reservations@shaxichina.com; Duànjiādēng Village; 段家登 r incl breakfast ¥520; iW)

This boutique guesthouse has been lovingly restored out of a 200-year-old Chinese theatre and inn. There are only five very comfortable rooms here, all with photogenic views towards the nearby mountains; book ahead. It’s located 3km north of Shāxī; you can rent a bike here (¥20) to get around.

5Eating

Lóngfèng Ruìyīng Qīngzhēn FànguǎnYUNNAN$

(龙凤瑞英清真饭馆 dishes from ¥10; h7.30am-10pm)

Excellent Huí-run restaurant on Shāxī's 'main' street. It's good for a noodle breakfast, or dinner. Try the gānbā (dried beef) or zàn shuǐ kǔ cài, a spinachlike vegetable that comes with a spicy dipping sauce. To find it, turn left at the top of Sideng Jie and walk for two minutes and look for the green sign with white characters.

oHungry BuddhaITALIAN$$

(大嘴佛; Dàzuǐ Fó www.soundinner.com; Sideng Jie; 寺登街 mains from ¥60; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; Wv)

The most sophisticated eatery in town, and one of the most notable in all Yúnnán, with a mouth-watering, all-vegetarian menu utilising locally produced ingredients. Great homemade cheese, pasta and pizza, as well as a fine breakfast. Proper wine list too. There are only 10 spots at the wooden counter where you eat and watch your meal being prepared, so grab one early.

8Getting There & Away

From Jiànchuān (剑川), minivans (¥13, 45 minutes) run to and from Shāxī. Moving on, you’ll have to backtrack to Jiànchuān. There are buses every 20 to 30 minutes to Dàlǐ (¥39) between 6.30am and 6pm. To Lìjiāng (¥23, 1½ hours) there are buses at 9am, 10am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm and 3.30pm. Buses to Kūnmíng (¥168) leave at 9.30am and 6pm, and to Shangri-la (¥46) at 9am and 10am.