Northern Sìchuān
Hiking, or even camping, in the stunning Jiǔzhàigōu National Park or heading out on horseback around Sōngpān are how most travellers experience the carpets of alpine forest, swaths of grasslands, icy lakes and snow-topped mountains of northern Sìchuān. Looping around towards western Sìchuān and Dānbā, take time as well for the stunning valleys and panoramic peak-filled landscapes of Four Sisters Mountain en route.
The Road to Gānsù
Those heading north out of Sìchuān into Gānsù province will need to bus-hop their way from Sōngpān or Jiǔzhàigōu. First stop is Zöigě (若尔盖; Ruò’ěrgài), a small Tibetan town with a distinct frontier feel. The grasslands here burst into life with wildflowers in late summer, but otherwise there are few reasons to linger.
There are plenty of eating and accommodation options on Shuguang Jie, with Shǔguāng Jiǔdiàn (曙光酒店 
%083 7229 2988; Shuguang Jie; 曙光街 r standard/deluxe ¥100/120; 
W) among the best of the lot for those spending a night in between buses. Turn left out of the bus station and walk 100m.
Zöigě buses go to Sōngpān (¥49, three hours, 10am and 2.30pm) and Lángmùsì (郎木寺; ¥25, two hours, 2.30pm), an enchanting monastery town straddling the Sìchuān–Gānsù border from where it's possible to catch onward transport towards Lánzhōu. Buses can be sporadic, especially when snow renders roads impassable. Zöigě is at 3500m and temperatures can plummet suddenly.
Sōngpān 松潘
%0837 / Pop 67,972 / Elev 3014m
Horse trekking into the woods and mountains is the main draw of the laid-back, historic town of Sōngpān (松潘), a holdover from its role as a major trading centre on the Tea Horse Road (茶马路, Chá Mǎ Lù). The hiking is also good, so there's a healthy backpacker population to swap travel tales with.
Much of the old town has been rebuilt in recent years, but architecturally it still holds much of its visual appeal and finding the touches of true history hidden throughout make it feel even more special. In midwinter (December to March) Sōngpān slows down and some businesses close; however, even in the cold, horse trekking is still possible.
Sōngpān
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
Sōngpān’s partially rebuilt city wall may be less than 10 years old, but its ancient gates are original Ming dynasty structures dating back some 600 years. Note the horse carvings at the foot of the two south gates, half swallowed up by the ever-rising level of the road. The only original part of the old wall is by the rebuilt West Gate (西大门; Xī Dàmén
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
h9am-6pm), which overlooks the town from its hillside perch far above.
Two wooden covered bridges (古松桥; Gǔsōng Qiáo and 映月桥; Yìng Yuè Qiáo), the bases of which are genuinely old, span the Mín River. On the western side of the Yíngyuè Bridge is Guānyīn Temple (观音阁; Guānyīn Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a small temple near the start of a hillside trail that offers good views over Sōngpān en route to the West Gate.
Shàngníbā MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(上泥巴寺; Shàngníbā Sì
GOOGLE MAP
)
F
A two-hour hike or horse ride east over the hills from Sōngpān, this small Tibetan Buddhist monastery sits in a picturesque valley among small minority villages. One-day horse trips often head out here for a roughly five-hour round trip, including a stop for lunch.
North GateGATE
(北门; Bĕi Mén
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; h9am-6pm)
From just west of the North Gate, it's possible to ascend onto a small restored section of the city wall for ¥150.
2Activities
One of the most popular ways to experience the alpine forests and lakes surrounding Sōngpān is by signing on for a horse trek. Many people rate this experience as a highlight of their travels in this region. Guides lead you through otherwise unseen territory to remote campsites aboard not-so-big, very tame horses. Food and gear are all provided.
One of the most popular routes is a three- or four-day trek through unspoilt scenery to Ice Mountain (雪宝顶; Xuěbǎodǐng), a spectacular peak. A three-day trek to Qīcáng Valley (七藏沟; Qīcáng Gōu), recently opened to camping, passes several technicolour lakes.
Rates are all-inclusive of gear, horses and two meals. Your guides take care of setting up tents and cooking, unless you want to. The only additional charges are park entry fees for some of the trips (you are told of these before you set out), and tips, should you be inclined.
The majority of travellers seem happy with their services, but we do sometimes receive reports of guides careless about environmental impact. Also, some travellers have had trouble getting refunds, particularly when the weather turned, which it often does. If you don't speak Chinese or Tibetan, we recommend booking through local and Chéngdū hostels, which will help you negotiate details such as the terms for a refund.
The nearby hills are wonderfully good for hiking. One option is to hike around one hour up to the only remaining part of the original town wall, by the West Gate. There are three paths up: one starts beside the stream north of North Gate; another leads up the hill from the west end of Gulou Jie; while a third is accessed via Guānyīn Temple. Another option is to hike for about two hours to Shàngníbā Monastery in the eastern hills.
Qíqílè MǎduìHORSE RIDING
(骑奇乐马队
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %189 0904 3667, 0837 723 4138; www.517sp.net; Nanjie, Yingyue Xiang; 南街映月巷 per day per person from ¥220; h8.30am-7pm)
If you speak Chinese, you should enquire at this well-run outfitter. They cover the usual local favourites and further afield to northerly Zöigě (若尔盖; Ruò'ěrgài; eight days) and southward to Hóng Yuán (红原; 10 days). Daily prices include food, tent rental and all other costs aside from admission to any national parks included in the route (which are outlined up front).
Shùnjiāng Horse TreksHORSE RIDING
(顺江旅游马队; Shùnjiāng Lǚyóu Mǎduì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0837 723 1064, 153 0904 6777; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 per person per day all-inclusive ¥220-320)
The most established union of guides in town has been leading tourists on horse treks for years. You can tailor trips from one to five days. Expect limited English-language skills. Guides take care of everything: you won’t touch a tent pole or a cooking pot unless you want to. The only additional charge is entrance to the different sites and national parks visited on some trips.
However, in recent years we have received several complaints from readers about the company’s overly aggressive attitude towards some guests when disputes about payment arise, and about the treatment of its horses. If you do decide to stay in their guesthouse (顺江自助旅馆; Shùnjiāng Zìzhù Lǚguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %139 0904 3501, 0837 723 1064; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 dm ¥30, r ¥120; W) or go horse trekking with Shùnjiāng, make sure you are very clear about what you are getting, and for what price, before you commit to anything. For comparison you may want to also make enquiries with the less-established but well-run Qíqílè Mǎduì, although they are less accustomed to dealing with foreign tourists.
ALTITUDE SICKNESS
At elevations above 2800m altitude sickness and acute mountain sickness (AMS) are possible concerns that, while usually easily managed, can be fatal if left unattended.
It's important to give your body time to acclimatise as you proceed higher into the region, and to take heed of any signs of sickness as warnings to slow down and rest before proceeding any higher.
Early signs include:
AHeadaches
ATrouble sleeping
ANausea
AShortness of breath
More serious warning signs:
AConfusion
ADifficulty walking
ACoughing up blood
If you or your travel partners experience any of these, particularly the more extreme signs of sickness, descend immediately to lower elevations and get medical help.
4Sleeping
Amdo Coffee House InnHOTEL$$
(安多房子咖啡客栈, Ānduō Fángzi Kāfēi Kèzhàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %139 9041 7006, English 135 1596 0964; Beijie, North Gate; 北街农行旁 s/d without bathroom from ¥200; 
nW)
In a stylish wooden structure just inside the old town's north gate, this hip guesthouse with a historical touch packs in all the modern conveniences plus airport pick-up (¥120). Some rooms are small, so head downstairs to the wired cafe for real coffee (¥20) and a big window perfect for people-watching from 8am to 10pm.
Room rates drop to ¥150 in low season.
Emma's GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(小歐洲青年旅舍; Xiǎo Ōuzhōu Qīngnián Lǚshě
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0837 723 1088, 131 0837 2888; emmachina@hotmail.com; Shunjiang Cun; 顺江村 dm ¥40-60, r ¥120-180, ste ¥200-300; 
aW)
Knowledgable Emma runs this warm guesthouse, which is next to her family's wood-framed house down a quiet side street. The rooms are bright and clean with private bathrooms, and heaters and electric blankets for the cold months. Check in at Emma's Kitchen.
5Eating
Lǎo Wū CháyuánTEAHOUSE$
(老屋茶园
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0837 723 3519; 15 Yingyue Jie; 映月街15号 tea from ¥5, dishes from ¥8; h8am-11pm)
Through an unassuming archway near the east end of Yìng Yuè Qiáo is this buzzing courtyard teahouse, a local favourite. The house special, spicy liángfěn (凉粉; ¥8), made of mung bean and potato starch, won the prize for being the best in the region. The hours are a bit erratic in practice, but officially they're open from 8am to 11pm.
Song in the MountainCHINESE, WESTERN$
(山里子之歌川菜馆; Shānlizǐ Zhīgē Chuān Càiguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %189 0904 3640; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 mains ¥18-45; h8.30am-11.30pm; W
v)
Run by the helpful Sarah Yang, this small restaurant serves a variety of simple but tasty Western and Chinese dishes at reasonable prices. Dozens of hand-written endorsements line the walls, testifying to its ongoing popularity with both local and foreign travellers.
Emma’s KitchenCAFE, PIZZA$$
(小欧洲西咖啡餐厅; Xiǎo Ōuzhōu Xī Kāfēi Cāntīng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0837 723 1088, 131 0837 2888; emmachina@hotmail.com; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 mains ¥18-58; h8am-midnight; W)
Sōngpān’s main traveller hang-out is this laid-back cafe with wi-fi and fresh coffee (from ¥28), pizza and other Western fare, along with a range of Chinese dishes. Emma is exceedingly knowledgable and can sort out almost anything from laundry to tickets to picnic lunches for your horse trek, and leads on mountain-biking tours (from ¥220).
This is where you check-in for Emma's Guesthouse.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Zūwū Heritage HouseCAFE
(祖屋客栈; Zūwū Kèzhàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0837 723 1011; 45 Minshan Cun; 岷山村45号 h8am-midnight; W)
Centred on a large tree-shaded courtyard, this combination teahouse/cafe/guesthouse is a chilled-out place to relax by day or a classy spot for a drink by night with drinks for all hours starting from around ¥20.
7Shopping
Jīnmíngzhū SupermarketMARKET
(金明珠购物中心; Jīnmíngzhū Gòuwùzhōngxīn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; North Gate square; 北门广场 h8.30am-9.30pm)
At the foot of the square just inside the old town's North Gate, this supermarket is the best place in town to stock up on food for trips into the countryside.
8Information
It is not currently possible to change foreign currency in Sōngpān. The ATMs at the Agricultural Bank of China (中国农业银行; Nóngyè Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 ) accept Visa and MasterCard, though many travellers report problems accessing their foreign accounts.
Internet CafeINTERNET
(沙巴克网吧; Shābākè Wǎngbā
GOOGLE MAP
; old-town Nanjie; 古镇南街 per hr ¥10; h24hr; W)
Upstairs off a side street on the southern foot of the central covered bridge. No English sign.
Public Security BureauVISA AGENCY
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú
GOOGLE MAP
; %0837 723 3778; East Gate square; 东门广场 h8.30am-noon & 3-6pm)
The PSB office can usually renew visas in one working day, though they may refer you to the new district (新区) main office (a ¥10 taxi ride) if the necessary personnel are not on hand. It's at the top of the square just inside the East Gate.
MONEY TIPS
Note that banks in this region cannot change foreign currency, though ATMs do accept foreign cards.
8Getting There & Away
Air
There’s no public transport between Sōngpān and the nearby Jiǔhuáng Airport. A taxi should be around ¥100 (¥150 at night).
Bus
Buses leaving Sōngpān's bus station (汽车站; Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) include:
AChéngdū ¥110, 8½ hours, four daily (6am, 6.30am, 7am, 12.30pm)
ADūjiāngyàn ¥107, 6½ hours, one daily (7.20am)
AHuánglóng National Park ¥28, two hours, three daily (6am, 7am, 2pm)
AJiǔzhàigōu ¥40 to ¥46, 2½ hours, two daily (9am, 1pm)
AZöigě ¥50, three hours, one daily (6.20am)
Train
Train Booking Office (售票处; Shòupiàochù
GOOGLE MAP
; h9am-5.30pm) While Sōngpān is not connected to China's rail network, this small booking office in the heart of the old town can procure tickets for onward travel from ¥5 per booking.
8Getting Around
Pedicabs ( GOOGLE MAP ) wait on the west end of Gulou Jie (鼓楼街) to give rides, generally starting at ¥5.
Jiǔzhàigōu National Park 九寨沟风景名胜区
%0837 / Pop 67,039 / Elev 2175m
Jiǔzhàigōu National Park (九寨沟风景名胜区), an enchanting Unesco World Heritage Site, is one of Sìchuān’s and even China's star attractions. More than two million people visit annually to gawk at its famous bluer-than-blue lakes, rushing waterfalls and deep woodlands backlit by snowy mountain ranges. The park's major sights are easily accessed on foot, via kilometres of well-maintained boardwalk trails, or by bus. There are even opportunities to camp.
Jiǔzhàigōu means ‘Nine Village Valley’ and refers to the nine Tibetan villages scattered in the parklands. According to Tibetan legend, Jiǔzhàigōu was created when a jealous devil caused the goddess Wunosemo to drop her magic mirror, a present from her lover the warlord god, Dage. The mirror dropped to the ground and shattered into 114 shimmering turquoise lakes.
When to Go
The best time to visit is September through to November, when you’re most likely to have clear skies and (particularly in October) blazing autumn colours to contrast with the turquoise lakes. Summer is the busiest, and also rainiest, time. Spring can be cold but still pleasant, and winter, if you’re prepared for frigid temperatures, brings dramatically frosted trees and frozen-in-place waterfalls, but also limited access to trails and an increased reliance on the park shuttle bus.
Jiǔzhàigōu
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
8Information
1Sights
oJiǔzhàigōu National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(九寨沟风景名胜区; Jiǔzhàigōu Fēngjǐng Míngshèngqū %0837 773 9753; www.jiuzhai.com; incl bus adult/concession ¥310/200; h7am-7pm May–mid-Nov, 8am-6pm mid-Nov–Apr, last tickets 4hr before closing)
Jiǔzhàigōu is, for many, a highlight of China. It's still possible to get a glimpse of pristine nature for a moment or two at a time in this increasingly popular park, and even ballooning visitor numbers don't detract from the raw beauty of the sparkling lakes and rugged landscapes of the park's three main branches: the Zécháwā, Rìzé and Shùzhèng Valleys. Additionally, the restricted Zhārú Valley is open to those willing to pay a premium for an immersive ecotourism experience.
Most travellers should visit the Zécháwā Valley (则查洼沟) first, since buses stop heading to the top around 2pm to 3pm. Ride for one hour and the full 18km to the foot of the 4350m length of Long Lake (长海; Cháng Hǎi), then walk back to Five-Coloured Pool (五彩池; Wǔcǎi Chí). It's possible to walk from here all the way back to the Nuòrìlǎng Junction (诺日朗中心站; Nuòrìlǎng Zhōngxīn Zhàn) but travellers with limited time would be best advised to take the bus, especially during the low season when water levels are low in the rest of the lakes on this fork.
From Nuòrìlǎng Bus Station, catch a shuttle for the roughly 19km ride to the Primeval Forest (原生森林; Yuánshēng Sēnlín) at the top of the Rìzé Valley (日则沟). Though not the most stunning section of the park, the 8km-long stretch of trail down from here to Bamboo Arrow Lake (箭竹海; Jiànzhú Hăi) has some of the least-trodden trails. From here it's a short hike to Panda Lake (熊猫海; Xióngmāo Hǎi), Five-Flower Lake (五花海; Wŭhuā Hǎi) and Pearl Shoals (珍珠滩; Zhēnzhūtán); three of the park's most popular attractions for their crystal-clear water, variety of colourful hues and, at the last, booming waterfalls with snowy peaks in the background. On the way keep an eye out for the path up to the Tiger Mouth (老虎嘴; Lăohŭzuĭ), a cliff-top overlook of Five-Flower Lake that shows better than perhaps anywhere else in Jiǔzhàigōu the astounding array of colours that are possible in a single small lake.
It's around 3km from Pearl Shoals back to the Nuòrìlǎng Junction and Waterfall (诺日朗瀑布; Nuòrìlǎng Pùbù), and the top of the Shùzhèng Valley (树正沟). Most will skip the majority of this 14km valley, largely because buses tend to stop between 5pm and 6pm, after which the only option is to walk out or hire one of the very rare private vehicles as a taxi. There are a number of pretty lakes and three small Tibetan villages, however, and those with the legs to keep walking will find the paths largely free of visitors. Note that in some of the villages, especially Shùzhèng (树正寨), travellers may be approached by local families offering homestays from ¥100. This is officially against park regulations, and therefore is not recommended by Lonely Planet.
On the way out of the park, shuttles stop a few kilometres before the exit at Zhārú Temple (扎如寺; Zhārú Sì), a large Buddhist temple open to visitors from 2pm to 6pm, beyond which lies Zhārú Village and the restricted Zhārú Valley Ecotourism base. From the temple, it's a pleasant 15-minute walk back to the visitors centre.
Inside the park, overpriced snacks are available at any of the Tibetan villages and many of the shuttle-bus stops. For a full meal head to the pricey buffet of the Nuòrìlǎng Junction Tourist Service Center (诺日朗游客服务中心; Nuòrìlǎng Yóukè Fúwù Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; buffet from ¥68), or walk uphill about 400m to a row of small restaurants with mains from ¥18 to ¥58.
Seniors 70 and over and kids get in free but are required to purchase ¥10 visitor insurance. A ¥90 hop-on-hop-off bus fee is automatically included in admission for all visitors. During the low season (16 November to 31 March), admission tickets are valid for a second day of entry to the park.
HOW TO ‘DO’ JIǔZHàIGōU
ABuy early Tickets are available from the visitors centre one day in advance, until 2pm. Drop by the park the afternoon before your visit and avoid the queues the next morning.
AStart early Get to the park entrance just a few minutes after opening. The early jam will have cleared up, and you’ll still avoid the crush of late-rising tour groups.
AGo up first Since the most spectacular scenery is in the park’s upper reaches, you’ll see the highlights first if you take the bus to the top, then walk or ride down. Head first to either Long Lake or Grass Lake, work your way down to the Nuòrìlǎng junction, then go up the other fork. Later in the day you can see the lakes between Nuòrìlǎng and the entrance, or even double back to catch your first valley in a different light.
AGet off the bus Trails run throughout the park; by walking, you’ll steer clear of the biggest crowds – though they're by no means empty. The walking trails are generally on the opposite side of the lakes from the road, so you’ll have more peace and quiet, too. If you have just a day, though, buses are required to see the entirety of both routes.
APack a lunch Dining options inside the park are limited and expensive. If you bring your own food you can picnic far away from the masses and avoid spending any longer than necessary at the busiest points.
ATake it easy Site elevations vary from 2140m to 3060m, which can be tough if you're not acclimatised. Ideally, spend a few nights in the region first to make the most of your time in the park.
TTours & Activities
As part of the park’s ecotourism program (九寨扎如沟生态旅游; Jiǔzhài Zhārú Gōu Zhēngtài Lǚyóu
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0837 773 7070, English 135 5148 2613; zharu.jiuzhai.com; 2nd fl, Heye Guesthouse; 荷叶迎宾馆二楼 1/2/3 days from ¥560/1320/1960) visitors can hike and even camp inside the Zhārú Valley, just east of the main tourist areas. However, numbers are restricted and prices are high, so it won't be for everyone.
There are other great hiking opportunities all over this area, although not in the national park itself. One option is to hike around the hills near Zhuo Ma’s Homestay; Zhuo Ma can advise you on good routes. She also arranges short horse treks (¥180, two hours) from the village.
4Sleeping Eating
Angelie HotelHOSTEL$
(三喜宾馆; Sānxǐ Bīnguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %133 0904 3806; Péngfēng Village; 彭丰村 dm from ¥40, r from ¥200; aW)
Angelie Hotel is equal parts hostel and hotel, and the friendly, English-speaking staff organise Huánglóng tours (¥120), cook Chinese and Western food, and book tickets – all the usual hostel stuff in a hotel-ish setting. Dorms are stand-alone rooms on top of the roof, which offers incredible views of the mountains. From the park entrance cross the street, turn left and walk 400m.
oZhuo Ma’s HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(卓玛; Zhuómǎ %135 6878 3012; www.zhuomajiuzhaigou.hostel.com; per person ¥200)
A genuine Tibetan homestay, this pretty wood cabin in a tiny village about 10km from the main park has six simple rooms and a wonderfully accommodating family. There’s a common bathroom with shower, and prices include three meals and pick-up from the bus station (otherwise it’s around ¥60 in a taxi). There's also a new upscale ecolodge in the works.
Rúyìlínkă CàipŭTIBETAN$
(如意林卡菜谱
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %180 1577 8135; Péngfēng Village; 彭丰村 dishes ¥18-58; h9am-11pm)
Stop in for tasty Tibetan dishes (and beers) – the meat pie (牛肉烤饼; niúròukăobĭng; ¥58) is extremely tasty, and large enough for leftovers that can make an excellent breakfast in the park the next morning. To get here walk past Ā Bù Lǔ Zī away from the direction of the park; it's three alleys up, tucked away down on the right.
Ā Bù Lǔ ZīTIBETAN$$
(阿布氇孜藏餐; Ābù Lǔzī Fēngqíng Zàngcānba
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %135 6878 3012; www.abuluzi.com; Péngfēng Village; 彭丰村 dishes from ¥39; h11am-11pm)
The fanciest Tibetan restaurant in Jiǔzhàigōu, this excellent establishment is run by the same family behind Zhuo Ma’s Homestay (Zhuo Ma’s brother, Ke Zhu, is a Lhasa- and Běijīng-trained chef). There's an extensive menu of delicious Tibetan dishes, and some Western ones as well. For a quick fix, there's an affiliated dumpling joint downstairs.
8Information
A China Construction Bank ATM ( GOOGLE MAP ) at the park entrance accepts foreign cards, as does the Agricultural Bank of China ATM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (in Péngfēng Village), where you can also change cash.
The park has an informative multi-language website (www.jiuzhai.com). The visitors centre (沟口游客中心; Gōukŏu Yóukè Zhōngxīn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; park entrance; 沟口 h7am-2pm) by the park entrance (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
) is less helpful.
8Getting There & Away
Air
More than a dozen daily flights link Chéngdū with Jiǔzhàigōu Airport (officially, Jiǔhuáng Airport), which is actually located in Chuānzhǔ Sì (川主寺), a small town closer to Sōngpān than Jiǔzhàigōu. Direct-flight routes in high season include Běijīng, Shànghǎi, Hángzhōu, Chóngqìng, Kūnmíng and Xī’ān.
Shuttle buses to Jiǔzhàigōu (¥50, 1½ hours) meet arriving flights and drop off at Mènghuàn Jiǔzhài parking lot (梦幻九寨停车场; Mènghuàn Jiǔzhài tíngchē chǎng), 4km west of the park entrance. A taxi from there costs about ¥10. Early arrivals also have the option of a shuttle to Jiǔzhàigōu via Huánglóng National Park (¥120, 1½ hours) with a four-hour stop for sightseeing before continuing on.
A taxi all the way from the airport is pricey during peak season – about ¥300 (over ¥500 after 11pm). Many hotels and hostels offer pick-up services for about the same price.
Bus
Jiǔzhàigōu Central Bus Station (九寨沟口汽车站; Jiǔzhàigōukǒu Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) is just 2km east of the park entrance. Some buses arrive at Jiǔzhàigōu Xiàn's station (九寨沟县), 40km away. A taxi from Jiǔzhàigōu Xiàn to Péngfēng Village costs ¥40 to ¥100, depending on season and time of day.
Selected buses departing Jiǔzhàigōu Central Bus Station:
AChéngdū ¥140 to ¥155, 10 hours, 12 daily from 6.50am to 9.30am
AChóngqìng ¥250, 12 hours, one daily (7.30am)
AGuǎngyuán ¥123, eight hours, one daily (6.30am)
AHuánglóng National Park ¥48, three hours, two daily (7am, 7.30am)
ASōngpān ¥43, two hours, one daily (7.30am)
Note that you can travel to western Sìchuān, via Mă'ĕrkāng (¥170, 8am) and Dānbā, without having to go via Chéngdū.
8Getting Around
Taxis ply the streets and don't use meters. Generally, rides within Péngfēng Village and to Jiǔzhàigōu Central Bus Station cost ¥10.
In Jiǔzhàigōu National Park, from Nuòrìlǎng Bus Station (诺日朗车站; Nuòrìlǎng Chēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) catch a shuttle for the roughly 19km ride to the Primeval Forest (原生森林; Yuánshēng Sēnlín) at the top of the Rìzé Valley (日则沟).
HUáNGLóNG NATIONAL PARK
Huánglóng National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(黄龙景区; Huánglóng Jǐngqū %0837 724 9166; www.huanglong.com; adult/student & senior ¥200/110, cable car ¥80; h8am-5pm)
A trip to Huánglóng National Park is essentially a three- to four-hour, moderate hike up and down one small valley. However, the valley is stunning, with exquisite terraces of coloured limestone ponds in blues, greens, oranges, yellows and white. The best time to come from is June to October, ideally during mild July and August. Outside of this period, lack of water in the pools significantly reduces the visual impact of the park. At this elevation (3600m), always bring a jacket.
With smaller crowds than Jiǔzhàigōu, Huánglóng is certainly worth the trip in the right season. To see the whole park, walk 800m to the cable car (9am to 5pm), which drops you in a deep forest. The path leads you up a few kilometres to the start of the main sights, and then down again to the entrance – some 8km of long ascents and descents in all.
By the park entrance is a visitor centre with restaurant, teahouse and luggage check. Pack a picnic as bottled water costs ¥10 in the park. There are also a few expensive tour-group hotels nearby, but most people visit as a day trip from Sōngpān or Jiǔzhàigōu.
To get here, two daily buses depart Jiǔzhàigōu (¥48, three hours, 7am and 7.30am); travellers arriving on early-morning flights can take an airport shuttle (¥120, 1½ hours) directly to Huánglóng, where they will wait for four hours before departing for Jiǔzhàigōu. There's also one return bus to Jiǔzhàigōu (¥45, 3pm) and a minibus (¥120, departs when full) by the visitor centre. To get to Sōngpān, take the Jiǔzhàigōu bus and ask the driver to drop you at Chuānzhǔ Sì (川主寺; one hour), where you can catch a shared taxi to Sōngpān (¥60).
Lángzhōng 阆中
%0817 / Pop 242,535
An endless sea of black-tile roofs with waves of swooping eaves, flagstone streets lined with tiny shops, and temples atop hills of mist overlooking the river. It's all here in the town of Lángzhōng (阆中), Sìchuān’s capital city for 20 years during the Qing dynasty and now home to the province’s largest grouping of extant traditional architecture.
1Sights
Imperial Examination HallHISTORIC BUILDING
(贡院; Gòng Yuàn Xuedao Jie; 学道街 ¥55; h8am-6.30pm)
The best-preserved Qing-era imperial examination hall in China, with a number of in-character actors on hand to pose for photographs. On Xuedao Jie (学道街), which is parallel to Wumiao Jie, one block north.
Zhang Fei TempleTEMPLE
(张飞庙; Zhāngfēi Miào Xi Jie; 西街 ¥58; h8am-6.30pm)
This temple is the tomb of local boy Zhang Fei, a respected general during the kingdom of Shu and hero of the Three Kingdoms epics, who administered the kingdom from here until his murder in the year 221. It’s on Xi Jie, a continuation of Wumiao Jie.
Feudal Government OfficeHISTORIC BUILDING
(道台衙门; Dàotái Yámén Xuedao Jie; 学道街 ¥40; h8am-6.30pm)
Dioramas inside this recreation of a Shu-era government office depict scenes of legal hearings, officials' lives and feudal-era prisons alongside captions (in limited English) describing the workings of the era's bureaucracy.
Jǐnpíng ParkMOUNTAIN
(锦屏山; Jǐnpíng Shān ¥25; h8am-6pm)
Considered an essential element of the feng shui balance of ancient Lángzhōng and holy to Taoists, Jǐnpíng is dotted with pavilions, temples and caves. To get here, catch a ferry (¥3, from 8am to 6pm) across the river from the wharf just below the Huáguāng Tower (华光楼; Huáguāng Lóu 21 Dadong Jie; 大东街21号 ¥20; h8am-6.30pm).
Jǐnpíng GateTOWER
(锦屏门; Jǐnpíng Mén h8am-6.30pm)F
Originally constructed in 1371 and renovated in 1767, the current version of Jǐnpíng Gate is a 2010 rebuild. Join art students sketching from the top in admiring the old town's slate rooftops from the concrete staircase just off Nan Jie, a street running parallel to Dadong Jie.
Zhōngtiān TowerTOWER
(中天楼; Zhōngtiān Lóu Wumiao Jie; 武庙街 ¥20; h8am-6.30pm)
For bird’s-eye views of the city’s rooftops and lanes, climb to the top of Zhōngtiān Lóu, a 2006 rebuild on the way to Zhang Fei Temple in the centre of the old town.
4Sleeping
oTiānyī Youth HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
(天一青年旅舍; Tiānyī Qīngnián Lǚshě %0817 622 5501; www.fshui.com; 100 Dadong Jie; 大东街100号 r without bathroom ¥98-138, with bathroom ¥168-238; a
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If you want to improve your geomancy, settle into this beautiful courtyard inn beside the Fēng Shuǐ Museum. The nice twin rooms are each inspired by a particular feng-shui element: earth, wood, fire, metal or water. The shared-bathroom twins and doubles are more simple, but are crisp and clean with lots of natural wood. Some have simple bedrolls (褥子; rùzi).
oAncient HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(杜家客栈; Dùjiā Kèzhàn %0817 622 4436; 63 Xiaxin Jie; 下新街63号 r from ¥480; ai)
The nicest rooms in this large wooden building with multiple courtyards are set around a back courtyard with an open-air stage (performances Friday and Saturday from 8pm to 10pm), and go for a discounted ¥295. Less-expensive rooms are slightly smaller and off the main courtyards, but share the same historical ambience (also discounted, to ¥148). Turn right off Dadong Jie just before Huáguāng Tower.
5Eating
Chuānbĕi LiángfĕnSICHUAN$
(川北凉粉 %0817 622 6695; 90 Dadong Jie; 大东街90号 mains ¥7-38; h8am-9pm)
Outside the central old town just before the Fēng Shuǐ Museum, this busy restaurant is best known for the namesake bean-starch noodles, but the wide selection of Sìchuān-style favourites are all good.
8Information
Bank of China ATMATM
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng cnr Dadong Jie & Neidong Jie; 大东街内东街的路口 h24hr)
At the top end of Dadong Jie; accepts foreign cards 24 hours and changes foreign currency from 9am to 5pm.
8Getting There & Away
Buses from Chéngdū’s Běimén bus station arrive at Lángzhōng's main bus station (七里客运中心汽车站; Qīlĭ kèyùn zhōngxīn qìchēzhàn), which also serves Dūjiāngyàn (¥115, four hours, 8am), Lè Shān (¥150, six hours, 9.30am), Yíbīn (¥148, six hours, 9.30am), and Chóngqìng (¥107, four hours, 8.30am, 10.50am and 3pm). Buses return to Chéngdū (¥97, four hours, leaving frequently between 6.40am and 5.50pm).
Lángzhōng also has a smaller bus station, Bāshíjiǔ Duì (89队), which serves Guǎngyuán (¥57, 2½ hours, 8.20am, 9.50am and 2pm), from where you can catch trains north to Xī’ān or buses west to Jiǔzhàigōu.
From the Bāshíjiǔ Duì bus station, it’s easiest just to walk to the old town. Turn left out of the station; after a couple of blocks turn right onto Tianshanggong Jie (天上宫街) and keep walking straight. Dadong Jie will be on your left. Wumiao Jie will be straight on through an ornamental archway.
8Getting Around
Local bus 8 (¥2) connects the town's two bus stations via the old town. From Bāshíjiǔ Duì it's four stops (from the main station 10 stops) to the old-town stop at Yīqiáo Gŭchéng Rénkŏu (一桥古城人口). Walk up towards the Huáguāng Tower for Dadong Jie.
To explore the far side of the river, small boats (¥3) make the crossing irregularly from 8am to 6pm.
GUǎNGYUáN 广元
Those on their way to Xī’ān from Jiǔzhàigōu can take the most direct overland route via the midsized town of Guǎngyuán (广元) on the main Chéngdū–Xī’ān train line.
China’s only female emperor, Wu Zetian, was born in Guǎngyuán during the Tang dynasty. Huángzé Temple (皇泽寺; Huángzé Sì Zetian Nanlu; 则天南路 adult/student ¥50/25; h8am-6pm), with its pavilions and 1000 carvings, is dedicated to her. Further north near the east bank of the Jiālíng River, Qiānfú Cliff (千佛崖摩崖造像; Qiānfú Yá Móyá Zàoxiàng adult/student ¥50/25; h8am-6pm) is a honeycomb of more than 7000 grotto carvings dating back 1500 years to the ancient cliff roads that linked Sìchuān to provinces further north.
Tiānzhào HotelHOTEL$$
(天曌马瑞卡酒店; Tiānzhào Mǎruìkǎ Jiǔdiàn %0839 366 8888; 112 Jinlun Nanlu; 金轮南路112号 r from ¥148; 
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If you need to stay the night in Guǎngyuán, this hotel has smart rooms in a convenient location. Turn right out of the train station; it’s about two blocks on your right.
Guǎngyuán's train and long-distance bus station (途汽车客运站) are adjacent, with the bus station just to the left of the train station exit. Huángzé Temple is about 1km to the south, while the Qiānfú Cliff is a walkable 4km northeast of the town centre, on the river's east bank.
SELECTED BUSES FROM GUǎNGYUáN
Chéngdū ¥111, four hours, frequently from 9am to 9pm
Jiǔzhàigōu ¥106, 8½ hours, two daily (6am, 10.20am)
Lángzhōng ¥58, 2½ hours, four daily (10.30am, 11am, 2.50pm, 5.30pm)
Xī’ān ¥142, six hours, two daily (10am, 10.30am)
SELECTED TRAINS FROM GUǎNGYUáN
Chéngdū K ¥47, five hours, 20 daily from 12.06am to 11.36pm
Xī’ān K seat/sleeper ¥75/133, 10 hours, nine daily from 2.22am to 11.01pm