Chóngqìng
Chóngqìng
Pop 30.17 million
Why Go?
Chóngqìng (重庆) municipality may be a relatively recent creation, having been carved out of Sìchuān province in 1997, but with its eponymous city driving the economy of western China, it's now one of the most important regions in the whole country. And, despite its new name, the area it covers has played a significant role throughout Chinese history and remains a place of great natural beauty.
Thanks to the mighty Yangzi River (Cháng Jiāng), which powers its way through here, this region has long been one of strategic military importance. The river was responsible for creating one of China’s greatest natural wonders, the magnificent Three Gorges.
Humans have left their indelible mark as well, with a panoply of ancient Buddhist sculptures, dozens of seemingly lost-in-time villages and, of course, the megalopolis that is Chóngqìng: one of the fastest-growing, buzzing cities in all China.
When to Go
AApr & May Winter chill has lifted; full force of summer sweat box yet to arrive, but still rainy.
AJul & Aug It’s hot; temperatures top 40°C and Chóngqìng City resembles a steam bath.
ASep & Oct Manageable temperatures; a good time to explore the countryside.
Chóngqìng Highlights
1 Yangzi River Cruise Shifting down a gear or two as you float past the awe-inspiring Three Gorges.
2 Dàzú Buddhist Caves Gasping in wonder at the exquisite artwork of these ancient cliff carvings.
3 Wǔlóng County National Geology Park Exploring the wild waterfalls and karst formations of this mountain wilderness area.
4 Mang Hot Pot Tucking into the world’s most mouth-numbing hotpot at this Chóngqìng favourite.
5 Ānjū Ancient Town Wandering the cobblestones of this exquisitely preserved Ming dynasty village.
6 Fishing Town Fortress Hiking the ruins of one of China’s greatest battlefields.
7 Shāokǎo Pulling up a stool to enjoy these spicy meat, tofu and veggie skewers, one of Chóngqìng's greatest street snacks.
History
Stone tools unearthed along the Yangzi River valleys show that humans lived in this region two million years ago. The ancient Ba kingdom ruled from here more than 2000 years before subsequent Qin, Sui and Southern Song dynasty rulers took over. From 1938 to 1945, Chóngqìng City (previously known as Chungking) became the Kuomintang’s wartime capital. It was here that representatives of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP), including Zhou Enlai, acted as ‘liaisons’ between the Kuomintang and the communists headquartered at Yán’ān, in Shaanxi province.
Refugees from all over China flooded into the city during WWII. More followed when the construction of the Three Gorges Dam displaced more than one million people.
In 1997 Chóngqìng separated from Sìchuān province and became a municipality under the direct control of the central government.
The city was the backdrop for one of modern China’s biggest political scandals in 2012 when Gu Kailai, the wife of Chóngqìng’s Communist Party boss Bo Xilai, was convicted of murdering British businessman Neil Heywood. Allegations of corruption, extortion and espionage surrounded the case, as well as rumours that Běijīng was unhappy with Bo's populist policies and wanted him out of the way. Both Bo and his wife were sentenced to lengthy prison terms.
8Getting There & Away
Chóngqìng is well-connected with the rest of the country and the world via bus, rail and air. The road network is increasingly good, with even many small villages now served by smooth, newly paved streets.
Chóngqìng City 重庆市
%023 / Pop 13.33 million
There's a frontier-town vibe to Chóngqìng City (重庆市; Chóngqìng Shì), one of the most booming metropolises on earth. Despite a history that dates back to the ancient Ba kingdom, as well as being China's de facto capital during WWII, this former walled fortress has a distinctly brash feel.
The city sprawling down both banks of the Yangzi River for kilometres – with further development ongoing – but very little remains of old Chóngqìng. Yet the city has a unique energy that makes it a fascinating place and the locals are some of the most welcoming in all China. The gritty docks, too, are a permanent reminder of how Chóngqìng's fortunes have long been tied to the river that flows through it.
Chóngqìng is sometimes mistakenly referred to as the most populous city in the world. It isn’t. Figures for the whole municipality’s population are just over 30 million but, for now anyway, the city of Chóngqìng itself has just over 13 million inhabitants.
The city centre is a peninsula poking out horizontally between the Yangzi and Jiālíng rivers. This area is called the Yúzhōng District (渝中区), and the busy urban core at its eastern tip is known as Jiěfàngbēi (解放碑). To the north of Yúzhōng across the Jiālíng River is Jiāngběi (江北区), which is mostly residential buildings and new, upscale tower blocks. To the south of Yúzhōng across the Yangzi is Nán'àn (南岸区); the main attractions for visitors are the strands of new bars and restaurants along the waterfront. West of Yúzhōng is Shāpíngbà (沙坪坝区), home to several universities and some of Chóngqìng's hipper nightlife.
1Sights
Chóngqìng is not especially heavy on world-class sights. Those that exist are spread fairly evenly around the city.
Húguǎng Guild HallMUSEUM
(湖广会馆; Húguǎng Huìguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %023-6393 0287; Dongshuimen Zhengjie; 东水门正街 admission ¥30; 
h9am-5pm; 
mXiaoshizi)
You could spend several hours poking around the beautifully restored buildings in this gorgeous museum complex, which once served as a community headquarters for immigrants from the Hú (Húnán and Húběi) and Guǎng (Guǎngdōng and Guǎngxī) provinces, who arrived in Chóngqìng several hundred years ago. There are rooms filled with artwork and furniture, a temple, a teahouse and several stages for Chinese opera performances.
Luóhàn TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(罗汉寺; Luóhàn Sì
MAP
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; Luohan Si Jie; 罗汉寺街 ¥10; h7am-5pm; mXiǎoshízì)
Built around 1000 years ago, this still-active temple is now sandwiched between skyscrapers. A notable feature is the corridor flanked by intricate rock carvings found just after you enter the complex, but the main attraction here is Arhat Hall (罗汉堂; Luóhàn Táng), off to your right just after the corridor, which contains 500 terracotta arhats (a Buddhist term for those who have achieved enlightenment and who pass to nirvana at death).
Chóngqìng (Jiěfàngbēi Area)
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
Cíqìkǒu Ancient TownOLD TOWN
(磁器口古镇; Cíqìkǒu Gǔzhèn Shapingba; mCiqikou, exit 1)
The opportunity to snatch a glimpse of old Chóngqìng makes it worth riding out to Shapingba district, on the Jiālíng River west of the centre. Through the archway that is the entrance to the town, most of the buildings in this sprawling complex – many dating to the late Ming dynasty – have been restored. The main drag can feel like a carnival, complete with candied fruits and neon fairy wands for sale, especially on weekends, but away from the central street, a living, working village remains.
You can easily lose yourself in its narrow lanes, peeking into homes and tiny storefronts. And there’s plenty to eat here, both in the alleys and overlooking the river. It’s also worth poking your head inside Bǎolún Sì (宝轮寺 ¥5; h7am-6pm), one of Cíqìkǒu’s only remaining temples. Its main building is more than 1000 years old. The alley the temple is on, Heng Jie (横街), is one of the most pleasant places to explore, and contains a string of cute cafes with wi-fi.
Hóngyá CaveAREA
(洪崖洞; Hóngyá Dòng
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; 56 Cangbai Lu, 沧白路56号 mXiǎoshízì)
Not a cave, but a Disney-esque re-creation of the old stilt houses that once lined Chóngqìng's riverfronts, this 11-storey shopping, dining and entertainment complex anchors the city's tourism scene. Here, you can get a foot massage, buy a jade bracelet, eat a dinner of spicy skewers and down a beer at an international pub, all in one place. It's cheesy good fun, and at night, the lit-up complex is fairly spectacular.
Chóngqìng (Càiyuánbà Area)
1Sights
8Information
Chóngqìng Ancient City GatesRUINS
(古城门; Gǔchéngmén MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Sadly, only fragments remain of Chóngqìng’s once-magnificent Ming dynasty city wall, which stretched 8km around the Jiěfàngbēi peninsula and was more than 30m tall in places. Of the 17 gates that punctuated the wall before demolition began in 1927, two are still standing. The charming, moss-hewn Dōngshuǐ Mén (东水门
MAP
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) is on a pathway beside the Yangtze River Hostel. Larger, and partly restored, is Tōngyuán Mén (通远门
MAP
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; mQixinggang, exit 1), a short walk from Qīxīnggǎng metro station.
Three Gorges MuseumMUSEUM
(三峡博物馆; Sānxiá Bówùguǎn
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; 236 Renmin Lu, Yuzhong; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; mZēngjiāyán, exit A)
F
This sleek museum showcases the history of settlement in the Chóngqìng region. There's the inevitable exhibition on the Three Gorges, including a model of the dam, as well as clothing and artwork relating to southwest China’s minority groups. Some exhibits have better English captions than others.
Pípá Mountain ParkPARK
(枇杷山公园; Pípá Shān Gōngyuán
GOOGLE MAP
; 74 Pipa Shanzheng Jie; 枇杷山正街74号 h6am-10pm)F
For views of the city skyline, climb 345m Pípá Mountain Park, the highest point on the Chóngqìng peninsula. During the day, residents bring their songbirds to the park for air and group warbling.
CHóNGQìNG’S STILT HOUSING
Once a striking feature of the Chóngqìng skyline, stilt houses (吊脚楼; diàojiǎo lóu) were in many ways the predecessor to the modern skyscraper; sprawling vertically rather than horizontally to save space. Their design also served to keep family units in close quarters despite the uneven terrain of hilly Chóngqìng. They were built on a bamboo or fir frame that was fitted into bore holes drilled into the mountain side, and their thin walls were stuffed with straw and coated with mud to allow for cooling ventilation in a city that swelters in summer.
Modernisation has turned stilt housing into a symbol of poverty and as a result it has all but disappeared in the city itself, with the last remaining stilt houses in the centre slated for demolition at the time of writing. But many survive in the villages around Chóngqìng municipality, with some fine examples in the alleyways of Sōnggài and especially by the river in Zhōngshān.
2Activities
While it is possible to cruise the Yangzi River in either direction, Chóngqìng is the most popular spot to start your trip along the river, mainly because of its proximity to the mighty Three Gorges. Both luxury and ordinary cruises depart daily and tickets for them are sold at travel agencies all over town. It's best to book a day or two ahead and, if possible, avoid Chinese public holidays when the boats get very crowded.
oRónghuì Hot SpringsHOT SPRINGS
(融汇温泉; Rónghuì Wēnquán %023 6530 0378; www.cqrhwq.com; 171 Qingxi Lu, Shapingba; 沙坪坝区清溪路171号 entry ¥179; h24hr; 
c)
The Chóngqìng area is famed for its hot springs, and Ronghui is the most popular and easily accessible hot spring spa inside the city limits. Visitors in swimsuits stroll the lushly landscaped grounds sampling dozens of spring-fed indoor and outdoor pools, some steeped with medicinal Chinese herbs, others luridly coloured and scented. Wandering pedicurists will be happy to service your tootsies as you lounge on a chaise or on the heated 'lava rock beds'. Massages start at ¥139 for 50 minutes.
There's a kid's water playground, but most families seem to just take the little ones right in the hot springs with them, inflatable duckies and all.
To get here, take the 224 bus from Shapingba station, or get a taxi to drop you off in front of the Radisson Blu next door. The Radisson is the best place to pick up a taxi after you're finished as well.
oYangzi River Cable CarCABLE CAR
(长江索道; Chángjiāng Suǒdào
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; Jiefang Donglu, 解放东路 one-way ¥10; h7am-10pm; mXiǎoshízì, exit 5)
A ride on the creaky old Yangzi River cable car is slightly disconcerting, but gives you a wonderful bird’s-eye view of the murky waters and the cityscape beyond. It drops you off near the riverside bar and restaurant strip on Nan’an Binjiang Lu.
CITY RIVER CRUISES
Chóngqìng looks best from the water, especially at night when the city flashes with neon. The so-called two-river cruises last for 60 to 90 minutes, leaving every afternoon (2pm to 3pm) and evening (7pm to 8pm) from Cháotiānmén Dock, and can be a fun way of getting an alternative view of this unique metropolis.
There are a number of boats offering the same service. The difference in prices reflects the quality and age of the boats. Cháotiāngōng (朝天宫; Cháotiāngōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chaotianmen Guangchang; 朝天门广场 evening cruise ¥136), Cháotiānmén (朝天门; Cháotiānmén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chaotianmen Guangchang; 朝天门广场 evening cruise ¥158) and Jīnbì Huánggōng (金碧皇宫; Jīnbìhuánggōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chaotianmen Guangchang; 朝天门广场 evening cruise ¥138) were the three most popular boats at time of research. Although there are cruises every day, not all boats run daily. The boats have no English signs and very little English is spoken. You can eat on board, although menus are in Chinese only and the food is pretty expensive (dishes ¥30 to ¥80). Prices listed are for evening cruises, which are much more popular (and more worthwhile). Expect to get tickets for as little as ¥40 to ¥50 for an afternoon cruise. Buy your tickets from the end of the jetty leading to the boat in question, or at any number of ticket sellers around town.
4Sleeping
Chóngqìng has an enormous variety of sleeping options, from top-end international brands to backpacker hostels. Since the city attracts relatively few tourists, prices vary little throughout the year. Jiefangbei is the most central neighbourhood for sightseeing and eating; many of the best 'deals' on hotels found online mean you'll wind up in a far-flung business district.
oTravelling With HostelHOSTEL$
(瓦舍; Wǎshě
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; %023 6310 4270; 4th fl, Yuya Bldg, 7 Zhongxing Lu; 中兴路7号渝亚大厦4楼 dm ¥64-95, tw/d/d with bath ¥280/290/325; 
a
i
W; mJiàochǎngkǒu, exit 4)
Still sometimes known by its former name, 'Green Forest Hostel', Travelling With is much nicer than its location, in a 4th-floor walk-up of a commercial building, might suggest. It's the only hostel in Chóngqìng with a reliably social bar and common area, populated largely by young Chinese travellers. Friendly employees speak good English and are happy to help you book train tickets or tours. Rooms run the gamut from eight-person mixed dorms to doubles with private baths.
Deck 88 HostelHOSTEL$
(桃亭国际青年旅舍; Táotíng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě
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; %023 6281 7796; 88 Jiabin Lu; 嘉滨路88号 dm/d ¥65/190-260; aiW; mXiǎoshízì)
This clean and pleasant hostel right on the riverfront sees more Chinese travellers than foreigners. Dorms are poky, but the private rooms are a decent deal for this part of town. Staff are friendly, although there's not much English spoken, and there's an amenable communal area with a bar.
To get here, take the lift at the Hóngyádòng complex on Cangbai Lu down to the ground floor, turn left and walk for 75m.
Sunrise Míngqīng HostelCOURTYARD HOTEL$
(尚悦明清客栈; Shàngyuè Míngqīng Kèzhàn
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; %023-6393 1579; www.cqsunrisemingqing.hostel.com; 23 Xiahong Xuexiang, down the steps from 26 Jiefang Donglu; 下洪学巷23号, 解放东路26中对面 dm ¥69, tw & d from ¥300; aiW; mXiǎoshízì)
This renovated Qing dynasty courtyard hotel isn't a true hostel – there’s no restaurant or cafe – but remains an atmospheric place to stay. Rooms are beautifully decorated but, like all courtyard places, they are dark and small, and guests complain about maintenance issues like broken bathroom lights. It can also be accessed by climbing the steep alley just to the west of Húguǎng Guild Hall.
SomersetHOTEL$$
(盛捷解放碑服务公寓; Shèng Jié Jiěfàng Bēi Fúwù
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; %023 8677 6888; www.somerset.com/en/china/chongqing/somerset_jiefangbei.html; 108 Minzu Road, 9F, Block B, Hejing Bldg; 民族路108号合景大厦B栋 ste from ¥500; aiW
s; mXiǎoshízì)
If you're staying in Chóngqìng more than a day or two and hostels don't appeal, consider this welcoming suite hotel, perched high above the noise of central Jiefangbei. Clean, spacious, modern suites, from studios to one- and two-bedroom apartments, come with kitchenettes and laundry machines. The large number of long-term international guests means there are communal activities, like Friday movie nights, not found in traditional hotels.
Xīnhuá HotelHOTEL$$
(新华酒店; Xīnhuá Jiǔdiàn
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; %023 6355 7777; 9 Qingnian Lu; 青年路9号 tw from ¥828; aiW; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
This smallish, Chinese-style hotel has elegant, low-lit interior with spacious, well-equipped rooms (TV, fridge, safe) but tiny bathrooms. Some English spoken. A stone’s throw from Liberation Monument so about as central as it gets. Routine 40% discounts make it a fair choice.
Hóngyádòng HotelHOTEL$$
(洪崖洞大酒店; Hóngyádòng Dàjiǔdiàn
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; %023 6399 2888; www.hongyadong-hotel.com; 56 Cangbai Lu; 沧白路56号 tw & d from ¥650; aiW; mXiǎoshízì)
Sitting atop the massive Hóngyádòng tourism complex, this faux Chóngqìng stilt-house-style hotel hugs the cliffside overlooking the Jiālíng River. Rooms are big and well maintained, some with balconies and river views, and there are plenty of bars and restaurants just below you. Reception is on the 11th floor of the complex. Discounts (up to 30%) are generally available.
Harbour PlazaHOTEL$$$
(重庆海逸酒店; Chóngqìng Hǎiyì Jiǔdiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %023-6370 0888; www.harbour-plaza.com; Wuyi Lu; 五一路 tw & d from ¥888; aiWs; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
Smart and large rooms at this centrally located and popular hotel. All come with wide-screen TV, fridge and safe. Wi-fi throughout and proper bathrooms. English spoken and the travel desk on the 3rd floor can help with Yangzi River cruises. Up to 50% discounts are often available.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
$ less than ¥50
$$ ¥50–¥80
$$$ more than ¥80
5Eating
Chóngqìng is all about hotpot (火锅; huǒguō): a fiery cauldron of head-burning làjiāo (辣椒; chillies) and mouth-numbing huājiāo (花椒; Sìchuān peppers) into which is dipped deliciously fresh ingredients, from vegetables and tofu to all types of fish and meat. It’s a dish best sampled with a group. Indeed, hotpot restaurants tend to be among the liveliest you’ll find.
As well as the local noodle dishes, another great thing to sample in Chóngqìng is shāokǎo (烧烤; barbecue skewers), the perfect point-and-eat street food. Just choose your skewers, hand them over and wait for them to come back spiced and grilled. Select from dòufu pí (豆腐皮; tofu skin), xiǎo mántou (小馒头; mini steamed rolls), niángāo (年糕; sticky rice cake), qiézi (茄子; eggplant/aubergine), and jiǔcài (韭菜; leek), among other ingredients.
Shāokǎo barbeque spots are found all over the city. Most shāokǎo places in Chóngqìng also do bowls of pigs brain (脑花; nǎohuā) as a side dish. We dare you.
Mang Hot PotHOTPOT$
(莽子老火锅; Mǎngzi Lǎo Huǒguō
MAP
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; %023 6371 8492; Zhongxing Lu, 10 Wangyeshibao; 中兴路王爷石堡10号 dipping ingredients ¥6-26; h11am-2am)
A real locals' fave with some of the tastiest (and spiciest) hotpot in town. You sit on wooden benches around your table and bubbling broth. Expect to see male diners with their shirts off, beer bottles close to hand. It's just up the alley at the end of Qingnian Lu in the midst of the flower market on the left-hand side. There's a wooden sign with English and a picture of a man. No English menu, but the friendly staff will do their best to assist.
Liúyīshǒu HuǒguōHOTPOT$
(刘一手火锅
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; %023 6161 8555; 46 Cangbai Lu, 3rd fl; 沧白路46号南国丽景大夏3楼 dipping ingredients ¥5-34; h10am-midnight; mXiaoshizi)
The hotpot here is excellent, and the atmosphere is congenial, but the real attraction is the view; you dine as you gaze out across the Jiālíng River. You’ll be pushed to find a river-view table at peak eating times, so perhaps come earlier or later than you’d usually eat. Take the lift to the right of Motel 168.
Zhào’èr HuǒguōHOTPOT$
(赵二火锅
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; %023 6671 1569; 128 Jiefang Donglu, 3rd fl; 解放东路128号世纪龙门大夏三楼 dipping ingredients ¥4-36; h11am-2pm & 5.30pm-midnight)
Highly popular, Zhào’èr’s hotpot is rightly lauded. There are various options: the nine-sectioned pot (九宫锅; jiǔgōng guō) allows you to separate the flavours of your raw ingredients (ideal if one of you is vegetarian), although the broth is shared; while the two-sectioned yuānyang guō (鸳鸯锅) has a clear broth that is separated completely from the spicy one.
oZēng Lǎo Yāo Yú ZhuāngHOTPOT$$
(曾老幺鱼庄
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; %023 6392 4315; Changbin Lu; 长滨路 mains from ¥38-68; h24hr)
Outside, it's a seething mass of people crowded around tables. Inside, it's even more packed as you descend into a former bomb shelter – white-tiled walls and a rock roof. This Chóngqìng institution is a unique, utilitarian dining experience, with all stratum of society in search of the signature fish dish (鲫鱼; jíyú; carp) and the simply sublime spare ribs (排骨; páigǔ).
Xiǎo Bīn LōuSICHUAN$$
(小滨楼
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; %023-6383 8858; Riyueguang Zhongxin Guangchang, 4th fl, 89 Minquan Lu; 民权路89号日月光中心广场4层 set menu ¥50-78; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm)
A gentle introduction to Chóngqìng cuisine, especially good for the spice-averse. Choose from a selection of small-sized dishes on display, or better still go for one of the set menus, either six or eight dishes. It's on the 4th floor of a semi-defunct-seeming shopping mall, but the interior is a spacious approximation of an old Chóngqìng eatery.
Suzie's PizzaPIZZA$$
(苏蕊比; Sū Ruǐ Bǐ %023 6531 2929; Three Gorges Sq, 12th fl, UME Bldg; room 27 沙坪坝三峡广场玄地广场 pizza from ¥28-55; h11am-10pm; mShapingba)
English-speaking Suzie makes what many regard as the best pizza in town. The location, in a renovated apartment on the 12th floor of a residential tower, adds to the charm, as do the fake brick walls and pictures of loyal customers chowing down on cheesy, gooey pies. To get here, enter the building lobby to the right of the McDonald's in Shapingba's Three Gorges Sq, and go to the second elevator lobby to get to the 12th floor.
CHóNGQìNG NOODLES
Chóngqìngers are particularly fond of noodles and you’ll find noodle joints all over the region. They rarely have English menus or signs – just look for the character 面 (miàn; noodles) and you’re good to go.
Specialities here include xiǎomiàn (小面) or málà xiǎomiàn (麻辣小面) – often eaten for breakfast despite being very spicy – and liángmiàn (凉面), which are delicious despite being served cold. Noodles in Chóngqìng are served by the liǎng (两; 50g). Two-liǎng (二两; èr liǎng) or three-liǎng (三两; sān liǎng) portions are most common. Expect to pay between ¥6 and ¥10 for a bowl. Remember: wǒ néng chī làde (I can handle spicy food); bù yào tài là (not too spicy, please).
MENU DECODER
Amálà xiǎomiàn (麻辣小面; spicy noodles)
Aliángmiàn (凉面; cold noodles)
Aniúròu miàn (牛肉面; beef noodles)
Ajīdàn miàn (鸡蛋面; egg noodles)
Asuānlà fěn (酸辣粉; tangy glass noodles)
Aféicháng miàn (肥肠面; pig intestine noodles)
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are a string of riverside bars (酒吧; jiǔbā), cafes and restaurants on Nan’an Binjiang Lu (南岸滨江路); take the cable car over the Yangzi, then walk down to the river and turn left. From there, walk 15 minutes along the river or hop on any bus for one stop. Note: the cable car stops running at 10pm.
Dé Yǐ Shì Jiè (得以世界) is a public square surrounded by tacky bars, karaoke joints and the city’s biggest nightclubs.
For traditional teahouses, head to Cíqìkǒu Ancient Town and look for signs for 茶园 (cháyuán; tea garden).
oCici ParkBAR
(西西公园; Xīxī Gōngyuán
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; 1st fl, Hongyadong, Jiabin Lu; 洪崖洞, 嘉滨路 beer from ¥15; h5pm-late; mXiaoshizi)
The most amenable bar in Chóngqìng, Cici’s has a very chilled vibe and bohemian furnishings. Beers are affordable, mixers start at ¥30 and sometimes there are DJs and live music. It attracts a mixed crowd of both locals and expats, some of whom like to roll their own cigarettes.
Cliff's BarBAR
(卡里佛咖啡吧; Kǎlǐfú Kāfēibā
MAP
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; %13996296775; Hóngyá Cave, 10th fl, Jiefengbei; 洪崖洞10楼 h5pm-2am; mXiǎoshízì)
A party-happy mix of locals and foreigners down beers and cocktails at this convivial two-story bar, on the 10th floor of the Hóngyá Cave complex. The dim interior is hung with international flags, and a rock band is usually jamming next to the bar.
Harp Irish PubBAR
(竖琴爱尔兰酒吧; Shùqín Ài'ěrlán Jiǔbā %023-6880 0136; www.harpcq.com; Chóngqìng Tiāndì; 化龙桥重庆天地 draught beers from ¥35; h2pm-2am; W)
Not much to do with the Emerald Isle, but by far the best spot in town to catch live sport, especially the English Premier League, NBA and NFL. Strong selection of foreign brews and decent pub grub: fish and chips, pizzas, burgers and salads, as well as reasonable Mexican dishes. Also has a pool table and is nonsmoking.
It's located in a new complex of bars and restaurants a ¥25 taxi ride from the centre. There's another, smaller branch on the 9th floor of the Hóngyá Cave complex.
HOTPOT MENU
The best hotpot restaurants are entirely local affairs so you have about as much chance of finding an English menu as you have of being able to eat the thing without your nose running. (Do not underestimate a hotpot’s bite. This part of China is renowned for fiery food, and it doesn’t come spicier than hotpot.)
As with many dishes in Chóngqìng, the first thing to establish when ordering hotpot is how hot you want it – bù là (不辣; not spicy, but in Chóngqìng this will still be spicy), wēi là (微辣; mildly spicy), zhōng là (中辣; medium spicy), zuì là (最辣; very spicy) and jiā má jiā là (加麻加辣; extra, extra spicy).
Then you’ll be given a menu checklist of raw ingredients that you will later cook in your pot. Here are some of our favourites for you to look out for on the menu:
Ayángròu juǎn (羊肉卷; wafer-thin lamb slices)
Aféi niúròu (肥牛肉; beef slices)
Axiān máodǔ (鲜毛肚; fresh tripe, usually lamb)
Axiān yācháng (鲜鸭肠; strips of duck intestine)
Alǎo dòufu (老豆腐; tofu slabs)
Aǒu piàn (藕片; slices of lotus root)
Axiān huánghuā (鲜黄花; chrysanthemum stalks)
Atǔ dòu (土豆; potato slices)
Abǎi cài (百菜; cabbage leaves)
Amù’ěr (木耳; mushroom)
Akōngxīn cài; (空心菜; water spinach)
3Entertainment
Nuts Live HouseLIVE MUSIC
(坚果; Jiān Guǒ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %133 5037 9029; https://site.douban.com/nutslivehouse/; Xinhua Rd, Deyi Fashion Mall, B1-21; 渝中区得意世界负一楼 beers from ¥15; h7pm-2am; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
Fabulous, below-ground club that's the place to catch live music. Local bands take to the stage every weekend, but it also hosts any act of note passing through town. Live music carries a ¥30 cover charge.
Chóngqìng Sìchuān Opera HouseTHEATRE
(重庆市川剧院; Chóngqìngshì Chuānjùyuàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %023-6371 0153; 76 Jintang Jie; 金汤街76号 tickets ¥20; h2pm Sat)
Holds a 2½-hour performance of Sìchuān opera every Saturday afternoon.
7Shopping
For top-name brands, head to the glitzy shopping malls around the Liberation Monument (解放碑; Jiěfàngbēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ). For souvenirs, try the unashamedly touristy 3rd floor of Hóngyá Cave, or head to Cíqìkǒu Ancient Town.
Hóngyá CaveARTS & CRAFTS
(洪崖洞; Hóngyádòng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 56 Cangbai Lu, 沧白路56号 h9am-10pm; mXiǎoshízì)
Built into the cliffs overlooking the Jiālíng, this massive complex is a Disney version of the tumbledown houses that once stood in its place. If you have just a day to try local food and pick up souvenirs, it's a fun place to wander around. The handicraft stalls are on the 3rd floor.
8Information
Medical Services
24-Hour PharmacyPHARMACY
(药店; Yàodiàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 63 Minquan Lu; 民权路63号 h24hr; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
Western medicine, ground floor; Chinese medicine, 1st floor.
Global Doctor Chóngqìng ClinicMEDICAL
(环球医生重庆诊所; Huánqiú Yīshēng Chóngqìng Zhěnsuǒ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %023-8903 8837; Suite 701, 7th fl, Office Tower, Hilton Hotel, 139 Zhongshan Sanlu; 中山三路139号希尔顿酒店商务楼7层701室 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
A 24-hour emergency service is available by dialling the general clinic number.
Money
ICBCBANK
(Industrial & Commercial Bank of China; Gōngshāng Yínháng; 工商银行
GOOGLE MAP
; Minzu Lu; 民族路 h9am-6pm; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
On Minzu Lu beside the Liberation Monument. Has a dedicated money-exchange facility.
HSBCBANK
(汇丰银行; Huìfēng Yínháng
GOOGLE MAP
; Minquan Lu; 民权路 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
Has a money-exchange facility.
Post & Telephone
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng
GOOGLE MAP
; Minquan Lu; 民权路 h9am-6pm; mJiaochangkou)
You can top up your Chinese phone and buy SIM cards at the China Mobile store (open 9am to 9pm) on the 1st floor.
Travel Agencies
Travelling With Hostel (玺院青年旅舍; Xǐyuàn Qīngnián Lǚshě; Yangtze River Hostel
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %023 6310 4208; 80 Changbin Lu; 朝天门长滨路80号 dm ¥35-50, tw & d ¥200; aiW; mXiǎoshízì) Can arrange tours of all types (including Three Gorges cruises) and have better English-language speakers than the travel agencies and ticket offices around town. They charge minimal commission.
Harbour Plaza Travel Centre Staff here are helpful, speak English and can book air tickets and arrange Three Gorges cruises.
Public Security Bureau
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú %023-6396 1994; 555 Huanglong Lu; 黄龙路555号 h9am-noon & 2-5pm; mTángjiā Yuànzi, exit 2)
Extends visas. Accessed from Ziwei Zhilu (紫薇支路). Take metro Line 3 to Tángjiā Yuànzi (唐家院子). Leave from exit 2, go up the escalator, turn left then first right, then keep going until you see the large building with flags on your right (10 minutes).
8Getting There & Away
Chóngqìng is well-connected to the rest of China via rail, bus and air. There are also numerous direct flights to other parts of Asia and beyond. If you don't speak Chinese, it's easiest to book rail and bus tickets at a hotel or travel centre, as there is no English spoken at the bus and train stations.
Air
Chóngqìng’s Jiāngběi Airport (重庆江北飞机场) is 25km north of the city centre, and connected to the metro system. As always, it’s easiest to book online. Try www.ctrip.com or www.elong.net. Alternatively, buy tickets at the China International Travel Service (CITS; 中国国际旅行社; Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè %023 6383 9777; www.cits.net; 8th fl, 151 Zourong Lu; 邹容路151号 h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri). Some English is spoken. Because of the high-speed rail link, there are no longer flights between Chóngqìng and Chéngdū. Direct flights include:
ABěijīng (2½ hours, 12 daily)
AKūnmíng (70 minutes, 12 daily)
AShànghǎi (2½ hours, 12 daily)
AWǔhàn (90 minutes, nine daily)
AXī’ān (90 minutes, 10 daily)
Boat
Chóngqìng is the starting point for hugely popular cruises down the Yangzi River through the magnificent Three Gorges.
Chóngqìng Ferry Port Ticket HallFERRY
(重庆港售票大厅; Chóngqìnggǎng Shòupiào Dàtīng
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Cháotiānmén Sq; h7am-10pm; mCháotiānmén)
The cheapest place to buy ordinary tourist boat tickets, and the only place that sells passenger ferry tickets. No English spoken.
Bus
Chóngqìng has several long-distance bus stations, but most buses use Càiyuánbà Bus Station (菜园坝汽车站; Càiyuánbà Qìchēzhàn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; mLianglukou) beside the main (old) train station. There is no English spoken nor English signage, so you're best off buying tickets via an agency or a hostel. Destinations include:
AChéngdū 成都; Sìchuān ¥98, four hours, every hour, 6.30am to 8.30pm
AChìshuǐ 赤水; Guìzhōu (¥65 to ¥70, 4½ hours, six daily, 7.40am to 6.30pm
ADàzú 大足; ¥43, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes, 7am to 7pm
AHéchuān 合川; ¥29, 90 minutes, every 30 minutes, 6.30am to 8.30pm
ASōnggài 松溉; ¥41, two hours, one daily, 1.20pm
AWànzhōu 万州; ¥111, 3½ hours, five daily from 8am to 5.30pm
AYíbīn 宜宾; Sìchuān ¥63 to ¥115, three to four hours, every 30 minutes, 6.45am to 8.30pm
AYǒngchuān 永川; ¥32, 90 minutes, every 20 minutes, 8.30am to 9.20pm
Buses for Jiāngjīn 江津; (¥24, 70 minutes, every 30 minutes, 7am to 9pm) and Fèngjié 奉节 (¥160, four to five hours, hourly, 7.30am to 8.30pm), where you can catch the Three Gorges ferry, leave from Lóngtóusì Bus Station (龙头寺汽车站; Lóngtóusì Qìchēzhàn), which is on metro Line 3 (station name: 龙头寺; Lóngtóusì).
For Wǔlóng 武隆; (¥60, three hours, every 40 minutes, 7.30am to 7.40pm), you need the Sìgōnglǐ Bus Station (四公里汽车站; Sìgōnglǐ Qìchēzhàn), which is on metro Line 3 (station name: 四公里: Sìgōnglǐ).
Train
New, faster trains, including the D class ‘bullet’ train to and from Chéngdū, use Chóngqìng’s new North Station (重庆北站; Chóngqìng Běizhàn Kunlun Dadao; 昆侖大道 ), but some others, such as the train to Kūnmíng, use the older train station at Càiyuánbà (菜园坝). There is no English in the stations, so if you don't speak Chinese try buying tickets ahead via an agency or hostel.
Destinations include:
ABěijīng West 北京西; hard sleeper ¥393, 23 to 31 hours, five daily, 11.34am to 11.40pm
AChéngdū East 成都东; hard seat from ¥97, 1½ to two hours, 20 daily, 6.49am to 7.51pm
AGuìlín 桂林; hard sleeper ¥270, 20 hours, one daily, 8.35pm
AKūnmíng 昆明; hard sleeper from ¥245, 18 to 19 hours, three daily, 9.24am, 2.12pm and 6.32pm
AShànghǎi 上海; hard sleeper from ¥510, 28 to 40 hours, three daily, 8.02am, 1.10pm and 4.29pm
AWǔhàn 武汉; hard sleeper from ¥260, 6½-7½ hours, three daily, 2.15pm, 6.18pm and 7.28pm
AXī’ān 西安; hard sleeper from ¥184, 10 to 11 hours, three daily, 10.05am, 12.45pm and 5.26pm
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Metro Line 3 goes from the airport (机场; jīchǎng) into town (¥7, 45 minutes, 6.22am to 10.30pm). Note, the metro is signposted as ‘Light Rail’ (轻轨; qīngguǐ) at the airport.
The airport shuttle bus (机场大巴, Jīchǎng Dàbā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shangqingsi Lu; ¥15, 45 min) meets all arriving planes and takes you to Meizhuanxiao Jie (美专校街), a small road off Zhongshan Sanlu (中山三路), via a couple of stops in the north of the city. Bus 461 goes from Zhongshan Sanlu to Cháotiānmén (朝天门). To get to the metro, turn left onto Zhongshan Sanlu and go straight over the large roundabout. Niújiǎotuó (牛角沱) station will be on your left.
Shuttle buses going to the airport run from 6am to 8pm.
A taxi is ¥55 to ¥70.
Bus
Local bus fares are ¥1 or ¥2. Useful routes:
ABus 105 North Train Station–Línjiāngmén (near Liberation Monument)
ABus 120 Cháotiānmén–Càiyuánbà Train Station
ABus 141 North Train Station–Cháotiānmén
ABus 419 North Train Station–Càiyuánbà Train Station
ABus 461 Cháotiānmén–Zhongshan Sanlu (for airport bus)
ABus 462 Zhongshan Sanlu (airport bus)–Liberation Monument
Metro
Chóngqìng’s part-underground, part-overground metro system has four lines and links the Jiěfàngbēi peninsula with many parts of the city, including the airport and the two train stations. Fares are ¥2 to ¥10 and trains run 6.30am to 11.30pm. Signs are mostly bilingual and the electronic ticket-selling kiosks have an English option.
The metro station for Càiyuánbà Train Station is called Liǎnglùkǒu (两路口) and is accessed via one of the world’s longest escalators (大扶梯; dà fútī MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥2).
Taxi
Taxi flag fall is ¥10. A taxi from Jiěfàngbēi to Shapingba should cost around ¥45.
THE TOUGHEST PORTERS IN CHINA
Ever since the first Chóngqìngers couldn’t bear the thought of carrying their buckets of water from the river up to their cliff-side homes, there’s been a need for a special kind of porter. A porter who can lift more than his body weight and lug that load up and down hills all day long. A porter who can’t use a trolley like in other cities, or a bike or a rickshaw, but instead works on foot using only the cheapest of tools: a bamboo pole – or ‘bangbang’ – and a length of rope.
Known as the Bangbang Army, these porters have been bearing the city’s weights on their shoulders for hundreds of years, but their numbers really exploded in the 1990s when the government began resettling millions who lived along the Yangzi River. Many came from the countryside with little education and no relevant skills, and soon became part of the 100,000-strong workforce.
‘Bangbang’ porters earn around ¥50 per day to work in one of China’s hottest, hilliest cities, lugging heavy loads up and down steep hills, although you'll also see them carrying people's shopping home on the subway.
Despite the wealth that’s been pumped into the city in recent years (just look across the river at the Grand Theatre), the Bangbang Army continues to be an integral feature of Chóngqìng and porters are especially plentiful in the area close to the docks.
Dàzú Buddhist Caves 大足石窟
The superb rock carvings of Dàzú (大足石窟; Dàzú Shíkū) are a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of China’s four great Buddhist cave-sculpture sites, along with those at Dūnhuáng, Luòyáng and Dàtóng. The Dàzú sculptures are the most recent of the four, but the artwork here is arguably the best and in better condition.
Scattered over roughly 40 sites are thousands of cliff carvings and statues (with Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian influences), dating from the Tang dynasty (9th century) to the Song dynasty (13th century). The main groupings are at Treasured Summit Hill and North Hill.
1Sights
Treasured Summit HillARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(宝顶山; Bǎodǐng Shān ¥135, combination ticket with North Hill ¥170; h8.30am-6pm)
If you only have time for one Dàzú stop, make it this, the largest and most impressive of the sites. Of all the stunning sculptures here, which are believed to have been carved between 1174 and 1252, the centrepiece is a 31m-long, 5m-high reclining Buddha depicted entering nirvana, with the torso sunk into the cliff face. Next to the Buddha, protected by a temple, is a mesmerising gold Avalokiteshvara (or Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy).
Treasured Summit Hill differs from other cave sites in that it incorporates some of the area’s natural features – a sculpture next to the reclining Buddha, for example, makes use of an underground spring. At the time of writing, some of the sculptures were undergoing renovation.
The site is about 15km northeast of Dàzú town and is accessed by buses (¥3, 20 minutes, every 30 minutes, until 7pm) that leave from Dōngguānzhàn bus stop. Dàzú has two bus stations; old and new. Buses from Chóngqìng drop you at Dàzú’s old bus station (老站; lǎozhàn). Buses from Chéngdū drop you at Dàzú’s new bus station (新站; xīnzhàn). From either, take bus 101 (¥1) or a taxi (¥7) to get to Dōngguānzhàn bus stop.
Once at the site, it’s a shadeless 25-minute walk from where the bus drops you off to the entrance to the sculptures. Buses returning from Treasured Summit Hill run until 6pm.
North HillARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(北山; Běi Shān ¥90, combination ticket with Treasured Hill Summit ¥170; h8.30am-6pm)
This site, originally a military camp, contains some of the region’s earliest carvings. The dark niches hold several hundred statues. Some are in poor condition, but it is still well worth a visit.
The pleasant, forested North Hill is about a 30-minute hike – including many steps – from Dàzú town; turn left out of the old bus station and keep asking the way. It’s ¥20 in a taxi.
Buddha Vairocana CaveCAVE
(毗卢洞; Pílú Dòng )
The truly adventurous might like to catch a bus to the tiny town of Shíyáng (石羊), which has a little-seen collection of Song dynasty Buddhist rock carvings.
Buses to Shíyáng, just over the border in Sìchuān province, leave from Dàzú’s old bus station. When you get there, keep asking for Pílú Dòng (毗卢洞); it’s walking distance. From Shíyáng, you can continue by bus to Chéngdū.
Stone Gate Hill & Stone Seal HillARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
If you're really into Buddhist rock carvings, try to get out to the rarely visited sculptures at Stone Gate Hill (石门山; Shímén Shān), 19km southeast of Dàzú, or those at Stone Seal Hill (石篆山; Shízhuàn Shān), 20km southwest of town. You’ll have to take a taxi.
South HillARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(南山; Nán Shān ¥20; h8.30am-6pm)
This modest site really only has one set of carvings, but makes a nice appetiser before you delve into the main courses at North Hill and Treasured Summit Hill. It’s behind the old bus station and takes around 15 minutes to walk to. It’s ¥10 in a taxi.
4Sleeping & Eating
Dàzú is usually visited as a day trip from Chóngqìng. If you plan to stay overnight, there are several hotels in Dàzú city, though many don't accept foreigners.
Bring snacks, as there's little to eat at most of the sites, though Treasured Summit Hill has a row of vendors hawking street food. Group tours of the area will include a lunch stop. Dàzú city itself has plenty of restaurants.
8Getting There & Away
Buses from Dàzú old station:
AChóngqìng ¥43, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes, 6.30am to 6.30pm
AShíyáng ¥12, one hour, every 40 minutes, 7.20am to 5.40pm
AYǒngchuān, for Sōnggài (¥22, 90 minutes, every 30 minutes, 7.10am to 5.40pm)
Buses from Dàzú new station:
AChéngdū ¥102, four hours, five daily, 7.15am to 9.50pm
ALèshān ¥102, 4½ hours, one daily, 7.20am
AZìgōng ¥52, 3½ hours, two daily, 8am and 1.30pm
WORTH A TRIP
FISHING TOWN FORTRESS
Fishing Town FortressFORTRESS
(钓鱼城, Diàoyú Chéng ¥80; h8.30am-6pm)
Famed throughout China for being one of the great ancient battlefields, this 700-year-old fortress is surrounded by rushing rivers on three sides and perched on top of a 300m-tall rocky mountain. This was the last stand of the Southern Song dynasty and famously, in the 13th century, the fortress withstood the mighty Mongol armies for an incredible 36 years, during which time an estimated 200 battles were fought here.
The fortress was protected by an 8km-long, 30m-tall double wall, punctuated with eight gate towers. Much of the outer wall and all the main gates remain today; some partly restored, others crumbling away. There is little here in terms of facilities (bring a picnic) but it’s a fascinating and peaceful place to walk around; narrow stone pathways lead you through the forest, past Buddhist rock carvings, gravestones, bamboo groves, ponds, caves, the wall and its gateways and some fabulous lookout points. Sights not to miss include the serene, 11m-long, 1000-year-old Sleeping Buddha (卧佛; Wòfó), cut into the overhang of a cliff; Hùguó Temple (护国寺; Hùguó Sì), dating from the Tang dynasty, although largely rebuilt; and the Imperial Cave (黄洞; Huángdòng), an ancient drainage passage with steps leading down to it, clinging to the outside of the fort wall.
To reach the fortress, take a bus from Chóngqìng to Héchuān. Alternatively, numerous trains run from Chóngqìng North train station (¥12.50, 40 minutes) to Héchuān. There are no direct buses to the fortress. A taxi from the train station should be ¥25; from the bus station ¥10. The last bus back to Chóngqìng from Héchuān is at 6pm.
Láitān 涞滩古镇
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The main attraction in Láitān (涞滩古镇; Láitān Gǔzhèn), an ancient walled village overlooking the Qú River, is the towering Láitān Buddha , one of the largest in China, carved into a hillside and surrounded by more than 1000 ministatues.
Allow time to wander around the village, which is more than 1000 years old, checking out the small shops and eateries. Láitān mǐjiǔ (米酒; rice wine) is a local speciality.
Although it is possible to visit Láitān as a day trip from Chóngqìng, some people might like to stay the night within the village walls at one of several informal local guesthouses – ask around for information.
From Chóngqìng, change buses at Héchuān. You’ll be dropped at the town centre bus station, called kèyùn zǒngzhàn (客运总站). Turn right out of this station and take local bus 202 (¥1) to the larger bus station on the edge of town, called kèyùn zhōngxīn zhàn (客运中心站); it’s the last stop. From there, there are three direct buses to Láitān (¥10, 50 minutes, 10.10am, 1.35pm and 4.10pm) as well as regular buses to Lóngshì (¥9.50, 45 minutes). From Lóngshì, minibuses (¥2, five minutes) leave for Láitān from outside the bus station.
The last buses back to Chóngqìng from Héchuān are 6pm (from kèyùn zǒngzhàn) and 6.30pm (from kèyùn zhōngxīn zhàn).
Zhōngshān 中山
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Chóngqìng’s once-ubiquitous stilt houses have all but disappeared from the city itself, but visit the gorgeous riverside village of Zhōngshān (中山) and you’ll find plenty of them to gawp at. The old town (古镇; gǔzhèn) is essentially one long street lined with wooden homes on stilts above the riverbank. Walk down to the river and look up at the houses to see their support structures. You can also hike along the other side of the river.
There are a few simple local guesthouses in town (rooms ¥30 to ¥100). Look for signs saying 住宿 (zhùsù; lodgings). Most are small but clean and the more expensive rooms have their own bathrooms and cracking river views.
Several local restaurants and guesthouses will cook up a meal for you. Look for gǔzhèn lǎolàròu (古镇老腊肉; cured pork fried with green chillies; ¥35), héshuǐ dòufu (河水豆腐; river water tofu; ¥7) and yě cài (野菜; a type of spinach grown in the hills here; literally ‘wild veg’; ¥10).
Zhào Shìkè (赵世客 %138 8320 9407; r ¥30-80) is a friendly, family-run place. The best rooms have river views and tiny private bathrooms.
Most residents have turned their front rooms into storefronts. While some hawk souvenir trinkets, others sell locally made products such as chilli sauce or jugs of rice wine. Popular snacks include squares of smoked tofu (烟熏豆腐; yānxūn dòufu; ¥2) and sweet doughy rice cakes filled with ground nuts.
To get here from Chóngqìng, change buses at Jiāngjīn (江津), from where buses leave for Zhōngshān (¥15, one hour 45 minutes, roughly every 30 minutes from 6.30am to 4.45pm). The last bus back to Jiāngjīn is at 4.20pm. The last bus from Jiāngjīn back to Chóngqìng is at 7pm. You can also head south into Guìzhōu province from Jiāngjīn, via Zūnyì (遵义; ¥107, 3½ hours, 8.40am and 2pm), or north to the caves at Dàzú (大足; ¥51, two hours, 7.30am and 2.10pm).
Wǔlóng 武隆喀斯特
%023 / Pop 351,000 (Wǔlóng County)
Head three or so hours southeast of Chóngqìng City and you enter Wǔlóng (武隆喀斯特; Wǔlóng Kāsītè), a dramatic landscape where deep ravines cut through the thickly-forested hills, while waterfalls plunge into mighty rivers, and jagged limestone karst formations rise up towards the sky. Mostly off the map for foreign travellers, the Wǔlóng County National Geology Park is a fantastic place to experience this wild scenery.
1Sights
Wǔlóng County National Geology ParkPARK
(武隆国家地质公园; Wǔlóng Guójiā Dìzhí Gōngyuán )
S
About 20km from the town of Wǔlóng, this fairy-tale landscape of river-run gorges, karst peaks, natural bridges and mossy caves lies deep within the mountains about three hours from Chóngqìng. The park has three main areas: Three Natural Bridges, Qingkou Tiankeng Scenic Area and Furong Cave. Most visitors come to Wǔlóng via organised tours from Chóngqìng, which usually stop at the Three Natural Bridges area, home to three magnificent natural bridges you can gaze at from beneath.
Travelling here independently is difficult; the easiest way is to hire a car and driver. If you do, you'll be able to visit some of the more far-flung areas, including the spectacular (and spectacularly neon-lit) Furong Cave.
Three Natural BridgesNATURAL FEATURE
(天生三桥; Tiānshēng Sān Qiáo ¥135)
Towering above huge, hollowed-out karst formations, these natural bridges (you don't walk across them) are the highest in the world and utterly unique; you won't see anything like them anywhere else on the planet. A wander through the mossy, green gorge floor beneath the bridges takes about two hours. A vertiginous glass elevators takes you into the gorge; once down, sedan-chair carriers will try to offer you a lift and electric trams whisk the hiking-averse up the hill back to the bus terminal.
Furong CaveCAVE
(芙蓉洞 ¥120; h8am-5pm)
This vast karst cavern is hung with dripping stalactites and lined with surreal rock formations, all lit up with multicoloured stage lights. Follow a guide along the raised pathway for some 2km, passing stone 'waterfalls' and rocks shaped like dragons or Buddhas.
From the Wǔlóng bus station, shuttle buses run to Furong Cave, or you can take a taxi. Admission prices are lower in winter.
Lóngshuǐ GorgeCANYON
(龙水峡; Lóngshuǐ Xiá )
A tall glass elevator lowers you to the floor of this deep gorge, created by the flow of an ancient river. It takes an hour or two to wander the length of the canyon, exploring dripping caves and traversing elevated pathways over milky green waters. Numerous waterfalls along the rocky gorge walls mean you can expect to get a little damp.
4Sleeping
Though most people visit as a day trip, there are a number of hotels in Wǔlóng city, and many more under construction.
Yúzhū Garden HotelHOTEL$
(武隆瑜珠花園酒店; Yúzhū Huāyuán Jiǔdiàn %023 7779 9888; www.yuzhugardenhotel.com; 16 Furong Xi Lu; 芙蓉西路16號, Wǔlóng r from ¥300)
If you're planning on staying overnight in Wǔlóng town, this international-style riverfront hotel is your best bet. Despite luxury trappings, Western guests complain of hard beds, though that's par for the course in this part of the world. It has a Chinese restaurant, and is an easy walk from other restaurants and a market.
8Getting There & Away
Visiting the park as an independent traveller is difficult. While there are regular buses to the unremarkable town of Wǔlóng from Chóngqìng's Sìgōnglǐ Bus Station, the park is 22km northeast of there and you'll need a taxi to reach it. You'll also require private transport to get around the park, which is massive. Each site also has a separate (and pricey) admission ticket, while the restaurants and hotels scattered around the park are expensive.
The best way to visit is on a day tour. Expect to pay ¥350 to ¥400 (bring your passport), which will include transport, lunch and admission to the Three Natural Bridges and at least one other site, usually Lóngshuǐ Canyon. Travelling With Hostel in Chóngqìng can arrange tours.
Ānjū Ancient Town 安居古镇
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First established in 588 AD, Ānjū Ancient Town (安居古镇; Ānjū Gǔzhèn) is a riverfront village of beautifully preserved Ming and Qing dynasty buildings, and once an important centre of culture and scholarship. Today, the village traffics in its own history. Designated an official 'ancient town', its main streets have been refurbished and opened to tourism. Still, you're unlikely to see many non-Chinese faces, and on weekdays you're unlikely to see many other travellers at all. Beyond the city's preserved heart are ancient crumbling lanes where chickens roam, old ladies carry bundles on their backs and the smell of homemade noodles perfumes the air.
Although it is located within the borders of Sìchuān, Ānjū is generally reached from Chóngqìng.
1Sights
Ānjū City TempleHISTORIC BUILDING
This pagoda-style temple overlooking the river is Ānjū's main worship site. It was under construction at the time of research, but still worth a visit for a gander at its dusty deities and the views over the water.
Whampoa Military AcademyHISTORIC BUILDING
Part of the Republic of China's army academy was relocated to Ānjū in 1938. Many of the commanders who fought the Japanese in WWII were trained here. Today you can visit the old stone barracks.
Huguang Guild HallHISTORIC BUILDING
(South St; ¥20)
This sprawling guild hall features regular dance performances on its stage. Further towards the back are a number of rooms furnished with elaborately carved wedding beds and other period furniture.
Ānjū City GatesHISTORIC SITE
Ānjū has nine city gates dating back to the Ming dynasty. One of the most spectacular and easily located is the South Gate, directly uphill behind the tourist office.
4Sleeping & Eating
Ānjū boasts some half-dozen inns, including several in reconstructed historical buildings. No English is spoken. Expect to pay between ¥100 and ¥150 a night.
Restaurants throughout Ānjū serve regional specialities like eel stewed with chilli and spicy cold rabbit, as well as more familiar fare like hotpot, noodles, twice-cooked pork (古镇老腊肉; gǔzhèn lǎo làròu) and 'river water' tofu (河水豆腐; héshuǐ dòufu).
Lung Ying InnINN$
(迎龙客栈; Yínglóng Kèzhàn %023 4585 2888; Xijie; 西街 r from ¥98)
Overlooking the river, this two-story stone hotel has fairly modern rooms and a quiet lobby with windows open to the water.
8Getting There & Away
To get to Ānjū, take a bus to Tóngliáng (铜梁), which takes about 90 minutes and costs ¥30. From here, take a taxi to Ānjū (about ¥20). Hiring a car to take you to Ānjū for the day will set you back about ¥800.