Níngxià
Níngxià
Pop 6.4 million
Why Go?
With its raw landscape of dusty plains and stark mountains, sliced in two by the Yellow River (Huáng Hé), there's a distinct Grapes of Wrath feel to Níngxià (宁夏). Outside the cities is a timeless landscape where farmers till the hard yellow earth just like their ancestors did.
Yet Níngxià was once the frontline between the empires of the Mongols and the Han Chinese and there's a host of historic sites here, ranging from little-seen Buddhist statues to the royal tombs of long-past dynasties, as well as ancient rock carvings that predate the emperors. And as the homeland of the Muslim Hui ethnic minority, Níngxià is culturally unique, too.
Then there’s the chance to camp out under the desert sky, or float down the Yellow River on a traditional raft. But best of all, Níngxià sees few foreign visitors so it seems like you have the place all to yourself.
When to Go
AJun Warm, dry nights will give you a thirst for some local nightlife and Níngxià wine.
AOct It’s cooling down and time to play Lawrence of Arabia in the little-visited Tengger Desert.
ANov The Yellow River festival in Yínchuān features concerts and folk dancing.
Níngxià Highlights
1 Western Xia Tombs Visiting these imperial tombs outside Yínchuān, a rare reminder of a long-vanished culture.
2 Xūmí Shān Exploring these little-visited Buddhist grottoes with their hundreds of statues.
3 Gāo Temple Being startled by the unsettling statuary in the riveting Arhat Hall.
4 Hèlán Shān Rock Carvings Admiring unique rock carvings that date back thousands of years.
5 Tengger Desert Hopping on a camel to trek into the dunes for an overnight stay.
6 Great Mosque Getting way off the beaten track at this marvellous Ming-era complex in Tóngxīn.
7 Shāpōtóu Rafting down the Yellow River or sliding down the sand dunes at this desert playground.
8 Hǎibǎo Pagoda Taking in the beautiful lines of this unusually styled Buddhist tower.
History
Níngxià had been on the periphery of Chinese empires ever since the Qin dynasty, but it took centre stage in the 10th century AD when the Tangut people declared the establishment of the Xixia (Western Xia) empire in the face of Song opposition. The empire was composed of modern-day Gānsù, Níngxià, Shaanxi and western Inner Mongolia, but it soon collapsed in the face of Mongol might.
The Mongol retreat in the 14th century left a void that was filled by both Muslim traders from the west and Chinese farmers from the east. Tensions between the two resulted in Níngxià being caught up in the great Muslim Rebellion that convulsed northwest China in the mid-19th century.
Once part of Gānsù, Níngxià is China’s smallest province, although technically it is an autonomous region for the Muslim Hui ethnic minority, who make up one-third of the population, rather than an official province. It remains one of the poorest areas of China, with a sharp economic divide between the more fertile, Han Chinese–dominated north and the parched, sparsely populated south.
Climate
Part of the Loess Plateau, Níngxià is composed primarily of arid mountain ranges and highlands in a region of very low rainfall. Summer temperatures soar during the day, while winters are long and often freezing; spring is lovely, though blustery.
8Getting There & Away
Níngxià’s capital Yínchuān is the major flight hub, although Zhōngwèi has an airport, as does Bayanhot (for connections within Inner Mongolia). Trains connect Yínchuān, Zhōngwèi and Gùyuán with neighbouring provinces, as do long-distance buses.
8Getting Around
Níngxià is so small you can cross it by vehicle it in a few hours. Buses go everywhere, sometimes slowly, while trains connect the major towns.
Yínchuān 银川
%0951 / Pop 750,000
In the sun-parched land of Níngxià, Yínchuān (银川) has managed to thrive. The Tangut founders wisely chose this spot as their capital, planting the city between a source of water (the Yellow River) and a natural barrier from the Gobi Desert (the Hèlán Shān mountains).
Modern-day Yínchuān is predominantly Han, although its many mosques reveal its status as the capital of the Hui peoples’ homeland. But the most interesting sights, the Western Xia Tombs and Hèlán Shān to the west of the city, predate both the Han and the Hui. Yínchuān is also a handy jumping-off point for longer trips to western Inner Mongolia.
The name Yínchuān means 'Silver River'. Some say it comes from the alkaline land which can appear white, while others say that it's because the Yellow River is clear in these parts and can appear bright, but the exact origin is obscure.
History
The Western Xia, or Tanguts, were descendants of tribes forced to flee the northeastern Tibetan plateau towards the end of the 10th century. Although short-lived, at the kingdom's height it encompassed an area composed of modern-day Gānsù, Níngxià, Shaanxi and Western Inner Mongolia, and even rivalled the Song and Liao dynasties.
The Western Xia present such an enigma today because nearly all traces of their civilisation vanished in one fell swoop – thanks to the Mongols, who virtually obliterated them in 1227. Yínchuān was besieged for a year; towards the end of the siege, Genghis Khan died, possibly while fighting against the Western Xia. The city was then taken and most of its inhabitants put to the sword. However, if one were to believe Marco Polo, and also archaeological evidence uncovered in Kharakhoto (near Ejin Qi, Inner Mongolia), it's possible that some form of Western Xia culture survived for at least another hundred years.
Yínchuān
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
Yínchuān is divided into three parts. Xīxià Qū (西夏区; New City), the new industrialised section, is on the western outskirts. Jīnfèng Qū (金凤区) is the central district (the train station is on Jīnfèng’s western edge). Xìngqìng Qū (兴庆区; Old City) is 12km east of the train station and has most of the town’s sights.
oHǎibǎo PagodaBUDDHIST PAGODA
(海宝塔; Hǎibǎo Tǎ Hǎibǎo Park, Minzu Beijie; 民族北街的海宝公园 ¥10)
This fantastically well-preserved pagoda in the north of town is a beauty. Its cross-shaped (from above), straight-edged and tapering form was exquisitely built. The pagoda was slightly damaged during the 2008 Sìchuān earthquake, so sadly can no longer be climbed, but repair work may reopen it down the line. For now, it is a highly photogenic element of the surrounding temple, while to the south lie the waters and willow trees of South Lake.
The steeple is also rather unusual in its design, although it is similar to the town's other famous pagoda, Chéngtiānsì Pagoda. Also known as North Pagoda (北塔; Běitǎ) and at one time also called the Black Pagoda, the structure was possibly originally built in the 5th century (although the exact date is unknown), before being toppled by an earthquake in 1739. It was then rebuilt in its current form in 1771. Take bus 29 from the Drum Tower, then enter by the east gate which will take you to the pagoda (and the lovely lakeside park it is located in).
Western Xià TombsHISTORIC SITE
(西夏王陵; Xīxià Wánglíng ¥60; 
h8am-5.30pm, to 6pm summer)
The Western Xia Tombs, which resemble giant beehives, are Níngxià’s most celebrated sight. The first tombs were built a millennium ago by Li Yuanhao, the founder of the Western Xia dynasty. There are nine imperial tombs, plus 200 lesser tombs, in an area of 50 sq km – there are electric carts if you’re not up for walking. The tomb you’ll see belongs to Li Yuanhao; it's a 23m-tall tomb originally constructed as an octagonal seven-storey wooden pagoda. All that remains is the large earthen core. Permits, usually organised through local tour operators, are required to visit other tombs in the area.
The examples of Buddhist art in the good site museum (8am to 5.30pm) offer a rare glimpse into the ephemeral Western Xia culture, and point to clear artistic influences from neighbouring Tibet and Central Asia. There are also many fascinating artefacts excavated from Li Yuanhao’s tomb.
The tombs are 33km west of Yínchuān. A return taxi costs from around ¥150 (including waiting time). Regular buses (¥12, every 30 minutes, 7am to 7pm) run past the tombs from the bus station next to the Nánguān Mosque (南关清真寺; Nánguān Qīngzhènsí), not far from South Gate Square (南门广场; Nánmén Guǎngchǎng); you will need to tell the driver you want to get off at the tombs. From the South Gate, you could also take bus 2 or 4 to its terminus in Xīxià Qū and then take a van (around ¥40 each way) from there. As the site is on the road towards Bayanhot, you can get off any bus heading that way.
Chéngtiānsì PagodaBUDDHIST PAGODA
(承天寺塔; Chéngtiānsì Tǎ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Jinning Nanjie; admission ¥5, climb pagoda ¥20; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 5.30pm summer)
Climb the 13 storeys of steep, narrow stairs of this brick pagoda topped with a green spire for 360-degree views of Yínchuān. The pagoda is also known as Xī Tǎ (西塔; West Pagoda) and dates back almost 1000 years to the Western Xia dynasty, though it has been rebuilt several times since, especially after it toppled during the great Níngxià earthquake of 1738; the current pagoda dates to 1820. Buses 9, 10, 24 and 25 all reach the temple.
Nánxūn MénGATE
(南薰门; Nánxūn Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nanxun Dongjie; 南薰东街 )
The sole surviving gate of the old town wall, Nánxūn Mén looks south out onto Nanmen Sq (南门广场; Nánmén Guǎngchǎng) from its position east of Nanxun Dongjie. The two viewing platforms were added in the 1970s, making a faithful duplication in miniature of Běijīng's Gate of Heavenly Peace – Tiān'ānmén, which looks over Tiān'ānmén Sq. Mao's portrait was added, to perfect the copy.
Nánguān MosqueMOSQUE
(南关清真寺; Nánguān Qīngzhèn Sì
GOOGLE MAP
; Yuhuangge Nanjie; 玉皇阁南街 ¥12; h8am to 6pm)
This modern Middle Eastern–style mosque is a 1981 rebuild of the Ming-dynasty mosque that was entirely destroyed during the Cultural Revolution
Shuǐ Dòng GōuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(水洞沟 h8am-6pm)
The archaeological site of Shuǐ Dòng Gōu, 25km east of Yínchuān, right on the border with Inner Mongolia, has been turned into something of an adventure theme park. The site is divided into two parts; the first is a museum that resembles Jabba the Hutt’s bunker and which contains the Palaeolithic-era relics first uncovered here in 1923.
From there, it’s a golf-cart ride to an unrestored section of the Great Wall dating back to the Ming dynasty. Then it’s a walk, boat trip, donkey- and camel-cart ride to a fortress with an elaborate network of underground tunnels once used by Chinese soldiers defending the Wall. The renovated tunnels include trap doors, false passages and booby traps.
The catch is that the admission price to Shuǐ Dòng Gōu only lets you into the site itself. Everything else – the museum, fort and all transport – costs extra, making this an expensive day out. Unless you fancy an 8km walk around the complex, the cheapest way to do it is to buy the through ticket (通票, tōngpiào) for ¥130. Standard admission costs ¥60.
Buses run from Yínchuān’s southern bus terminal past Shuǐ Dòng Gōu (¥12, 40 minutes, eight daily) from 7.30am to 5.30pm. To return, wait by the highway and flag down any passing Yínchuān-bound bus.
WORTH A TRIP
108 DAGOBAS
108 DagobasBUDDHIST SITE
(一百零八塔; Yībǎilíngbā Tǎ ¥60)
This unusual arrangement of Tibetan-style Buddhist dagobas, or stupas, is 83km south of Yínchuān, not far from the town of Qīngtóngxiá (青铜峡). The 12 rows of (much renovated) brick vaselike structures date from the Yuan dynasty and are arranged in a large triangular constellation on the banks of the Yellow River.
Take a bus (¥25, 2½ hours) from Yínchuān long-distance bus station to Qīngtóngxiá and then take bus 2 to the Qīngtóngxiá Hydroelectric Station (青铜峡水电站; Qīngtóngxiá Shuǐdiànzhàn) and take a boat (included in the admission ticket) to the far bank.
4Sleeping
There are several decent choices in Xìngqìng Qū in all price brackets. This is the part of town to base yourself in, for history, character and tourist amenities.
oYínchuān HotelHOTEL$
(银川宾馆; Yínchuān Bīnguǎn
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0951 603 7666; 28 Yuhuangge Nanjie; 玉皇阁南街28号 d ¥138-238; 
W)
Yes, it's an old-school clunker. Yes, a pompous grand classical portico greets you. Yes, a vast dusty chandelier hangs from its capacious lobby ceiling. But this place has lovely staff and the rooms are huge, and a bargain. For ¥138 you acquire a colossal room with swirly carpet, flat-screen TV, shower room and more-than-acceptable beds.
Holiday InnHOTEL$$$
(假日酒店; Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn %0951 7800 000; www.holidayinn.com.cn; 141 Jiefang Xijie; 解放西街141号 d ¥600-2488, ste ¥2488-4888; 
n
aW
s)
Opened around four years ago, this hotel at the Yínchuān International Trade Centre is excellent, offering a range of stylish amenities, professional service, comfortable, well-equipped contemporary rooms and a choice of smart dining options, as well as a smooth bar. The inviting 18m swimming pool is a further draw.
PRICE RANGES
EATING
The following price ranges are for a main course.
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥50
$$$ more than ¥50
SLEEPING
The following prices are for a double room with shower or bathroom.
| Category | Cost |
|---|---|
| $ | less than ¥250 |
| $$ | ¥250–¥400 |
| $$$ | more than ¥400 |
5Eating
oXiānhè LóuCHINESE$
(仙鹤楼
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 204 Xinhua Dongjie; 新华东街204号 dishes from ¥15; h24hr)
This fantastic, cavernous place opens round the clock, serving both big spenders and budget-seekers. You could splash out on the pricey fish dishes or the gorgeous kǎoyángpái (烤羊排; barbecued ribs; ¥108) from the picture menu, but a half jīn of fried lamb dumplings (羊肉煎饺; yángròu jiānjiǎo; ¥28) makes for a filling meal for one, arriving with a crimson soy sauce and chilli dip.
Dà Mā Jiǎozi GuǎnDUMPLINGS$
(大妈饺子馆
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 32 Jiefang Dongjie; 解放东街32号 dumplings per half jīn from ¥15; h11am-9.30pm; W)
This popular place is dedicated to Chinese dumplings which come by the jīn, but you can order a half or quarter jīn, and there are all sorts of beef, prawn and vegie options as well as pot-stickers (锅贴; guōtiē) – delicious fried dumplings, too. Plenty of other soups, meat, fish and noodle dishes also available in the large, glossy photo (English) menu.
oQuánjùdéPEKING DUCK$$
(全聚德 Jiefang Dongjie; 解放东街 half-duck ¥76; h11am-10pm)
If you pine for Peking duck, Quánjùdé steps up to the plate. For ¥76 you get half a duck, a meal for one, served with cucumber, scallions and hoisin sauce. Purists maintain that the best Peking duck is served within earshot of the Forbidden City, but as a Běijīng institution, Quánjùdé is a close second.
The picture menu is Chinese only, but you can ask either for a whole duck (一只烤鸭; yīzhī kǎoyā) or a half duck (半只烤鸭; bànzhī kǎoyā). The chef carves it for you at your table, as in Běijīng.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Liángyuán BarBAR
(凉缘酒吧
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 127 Wenhua Dongjie; 文化东街127号 beer from ¥25; h10.30am-1am; W)
This pretty standard, rock-steady bar has been dishing up drinks and live music since 1998. It's a seasoned spot with cratered and scratched tables, Tiffany lampshades and a range of Belgian brews plus other cheaper brands. The live band kicks off at around 9.30pm, with Bob Marley, Coldplay and other anthemic numbers bringing on sporadic applause.
8Information
All hotels and a fair number of restaurants have wi-fi.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng
GOOGLE MAP
; 170 Jiefang Xijie; 解放西街170号 h8am-noon & 2.30-6pm)
You can change travellers cheques and use the 24-hour ATM at this main branch. Other branches change cash only.
China Comfort International Travel ServiceTRAVEL AGENCY
(CCT; 康辉旅游; Kānghuī Lǚyóu
GOOGLE MAP
; %0951 504 5678; 317 Jiefang Xijie; 解放西街317号 h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri)
Organises desert trips, rafting and permits for Éjìnà Qí (Inner Mongolia). It’s located 2km west along a road running from the Drum Tower to just before the Fenghuangjie intersection.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Jiefang Xijie & Minzu Beijie; 解放西街民族北街的路口 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Handily located post office.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú 472 Beijing Donglu; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri)
For visa extensions. It’s on a busy intersection near a hospital, a large park and schools. Take bus 3 from the Drum Tower.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Yínchuān Hedong International Airport (银川河东国际机场; Yínchuān Hédōng Guójì Jīchǎng) is located by the Yellow River, 24km southeast of the Drum Tower and Xìngqìng Qū. Flights connect Yínchuān with Běijīng (¥900), Chéngdū (¥1100), Guǎngzhōu (¥1150), Shànghǎi (¥900), Ürümqi (¥1080) and Xī’ān (¥380). Buy tickets at www.ctrip.com or www.elong.net.
Bus
The main South Bus Station (银川汽车站; Yínchuān qìchēzhàn) is 5km south of Nanmen Sq on the road to Zhōngwèi. Departures run to the following destinations:
ABayanhot ¥30, two to three hours, every 40 minutes (7.20am to 6pm)
AGùyuán ¥68 to ¥90, five hours, every 20 minutes (6.15am to 6.54pm)
ALánzhōu ¥140, six hours, every 45 minutes (7.20am to 5.05pm)
AXī’ān ¥181, eight to 10 hours, six daily (8.30am to 7pm), last three are sleepers
AYán’ān ¥136, 5¼ hours, four daily (8.50am to 2.10pm)
AZhōngwèi (¥35), two hours, every 30 minutes (7.35am to 6.15pm)
Some buses north to Inner Mongolia also go from the northern (tourism) bus station (北门车站; běimén chēzhàn). Bus 316 (¥1) trundles between it and the main bus station.
From the southern terminal the express buses (kuàikè) to Zhōngwèi and Gùyuán are far quicker than the local buses that stop at every village along the way.
Train
Yínchuān is on the Lánzhōu–Běijīng railway line, which runs via Hohhot (11 hours) and Dàtóng (13½ hours) before reaching Běijīng (21 hours). If you’re heading for Lánzhōu, the handy overnight K9679 train (hard/soft sleeper ¥130/194, seven to nine hours) leaves at 10.40pm, arriving at around 7am. For Xī’ān, the K1615 (hard/soft sleeper ¥230/351, 15½ hours) leaves Yínchuān at 7.05pm, arriving in Xī’ān at 7.20am.
The train station is in Xīxià Qū, about 12km west of the Xìngqìng Qū centre. Book sleeper tickets well in advance. A train ticket booking office (South Bus Station; h8am-noon & 1-7pm) can be found at the South Bus Station.
8Getting Around
The airport is 25km from the Xìngqìng Qū (Old City) centre; buses (¥20, 30 minutes, hourly 6am to 6pm) arrive and leave from in front of the Civil Aviation Administration of China office on Changcheng Donglu, just south of Nanmen Sq. A taxi to/from the airport costs around ¥60.
Between 6am and 11.30pm green BRT bus 1 (¥1) runs from the southern bus terminal (from the bus shelter in the middle of the road) to Nanmen Sq (10 minutes) in Xìngqìng Qū, via Nanmen Sq and along Jiefang Jie and on to the train station in Xīxià Qū (40 to 50 minutes). Buses 45 (¥1, 6.40am to 8pm) and 521 (¥1, 7am to 10.30pm) also run from the train station to Nanmen Sq.
Taxis cost ¥7 for the first 3km. A taxi between the train station and Xìngqìng Qū costs ¥20 to ¥30. A taxi to the South Bus Station from Nanmen Sq is ¥12.
Hèlán Shān 贺兰山
%0951
The rugged Hèlán mountains (贺兰山; Hèlán Shān) have long proved an effective barrier against both nomadic invaders and the harsh Gobi winds. They were the preferred burial site for Xixia monarchs, and the foothills are today peppered with graves and honorific temples.
Hèlán Shān Rock CarvingsARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(贺兰山岩画; Hèlánshān Shíhuà ¥70; h8am-6.30pm)
The most significant sight in Hèlán Shān are these ancient rock carvings, thought to date back 10,000 years. Over 2000 pictographs depict animals, hunting scenes and faces, including one (so local guides like to claim) of an alien, and they are the last remnants of the early nomadic tribes who lived in the steppes north of China. Admission includes entry to a museum on ancient rock art and a ride in a golf cart to the valley containing the rock carvings.
Don’t miss the image of the Rastafarian-like sun god (climb the steps up the hill on the far side of the valley). Bus Y2 (游二路; ¥15, two hours) goes to the Rock Carvings from Xinyue Sq (新月广场; Xīnyuè Guǎngchǎng) in Yínchuān; get off at the last stop. The last bus back to town is at 3.30pm.
Sūyùkǒu National Forest ParkPARK
(苏峪口国家森林公园; Sūyùkǒu Guójiā Sēnlín Gōngyuán ¥60; h7am-5pm)
This park is a good place to start exploring the Hèlán mountains. You can hike up the trails from the car park or take the cable car (up/down ¥50/30) straight up to cool pine-covered hills. Bus Y2 (游二路; ¥15, two hours) goes to the Sūyùkǒu National Forest Park from Xinyue Sq (新月广场; Xīnyuè Guǎngchǎng) in Yínchuān; get off at the second-last stop. The last bus back to town is at 3.30pm.
Twin Pagodas of BàisìkǒuPAGODA
(拜寺口双塔; Bàisìkǒu Shuāngtǎ ¥40; h8am-6pm)
About 10km west of the Hèlán Shān rock carvings are these pagodas. You can’t climb them, but they’re an impressive sight against the backdrop of the barren mountains: 13 and 14 storeys high and decorated with intricate animal faces and Buddha statuettes.
Western Film StudiosFILM LOCATION
(镇北堡西部影城; Zhènběibǎo Xībù Yǐngchéng ¥100; h8am-6pm)
This rather over-priced film studio is where the famed Chinese movie Red Sorghum was shot, as well as countless other films and TV shows. Hugely popular with Chinese tour groups, who swarm all over it in the summer, it’s fun to explore the fake fortress and re-creations of old Ming and Qing streets. To get here, take a red minibus (¥7) from the bus station just north of Nánguān Mosque (南关清真寺; Nánguān Qīngzhèn Sì), which run from 7am to 7pm.
Sūyùkǒu Ski ResortSKIING
(苏峪口滑雪场; Sūyùkǒu Huáxuěchǎng %0951 2079 103, 0951 503 5959; Sūyùkǒu National Forest Park; 苏峪口国家森林公园 ¥150-320; h8am-5pm from December)
The largest ski resort in northwest China, Sūyùkǒu Ski Resort has pistes for skiers of all levels.
Most visitors come to Hèlán Shān on a day-trip excursion from Yínchuān.
It's best to stock up with snacks and bring your own food as the area is not well supplied with restaurants, and food can be both expensive and not particularly varied.
Bus Y2 (游二路; ¥15, two hours) goes to the Hèlánshān Rock Carvings from Xinyue Sq (新月广场; Xīnyuè Guǎchǎng) in Yínchuān; the bus also stops at the Sūyùkǒu National Forest Park, the stop prior to the Hèlánshān Rock Carvings. Alternatively, you can hire a taxi to take you to and around the Hèlán Shān area. You can hire a minibus from the train station for ¥200 return to do a loop of the sights. You could combine that with a visit to the Western Xia Tombs for around ¥300.
There is no public transport around the Hèlán mountains, although bus Y2 will take you from the Hèlánshān Rock Carvings to Sūyùkǒu National Forest Park and vice versa.
Zhōngwèi 中卫
%0955 / Pop 1 million
With its wide streets and relaxed feel, Zhōngwèi (中卫) – 167km to the southwest of Yínchuān – easily wins the prize for Níngxià’s best-looking, most laid-back and friendliest city. It’s an ideal base for a trip up the Yellow River or further afield into the Tengger Desert.
Zhōngwèi
1Sights
5Eating
Transport
1Sights
Gāo TempleTEMPLE
(高庙; Gāo Miào
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Gulou Beijie; 鼓楼北街 ¥30; h7.30am-7pm)
Gāo Temple means 'High Temple', and this is one of the most extraordinary temples in China, where the three faiths of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism are revered, although Buddhist deities are clearly in the ascendancy. Do check out the unnerving Arhat Hall (罗汉堂; Luóhàn Táng), which contains 500 arhat, many in grotesque and unsettling guises and postures, including one whose arm shoots through the ceiling. The drawcard oddity is the Dì Gōng (地宫), a former bomb shelter and labyrinth converted into a Buddhist hell.
The eerie, dimly lit tunnels contain numerous scenes of the damned having their tongues cut out, being sawed in half, eyes poked out or stoked in the fires of hell, while their screams echo all around. The ceiling is very low, so prepare to crouch your way through. Look for the signs to 'The Infernal'.
The name of the temple becomes clear after you exit the Hall of Heavenly Kings (天王殿; Tiānwáng Diàn) to climb some seriously steep steps to the halls high above. After your climb, you are greeted by woodwork in a blaze of gold, blue, green and vermilion paint. At the time of research, the temple halls on the upper floors at the top of the steps were closed. To the rear, a reclining Buddha lies supine in most relaxed fashion within the Sleeping Buddha Hall (卧佛殿; Wòfó Diàn), while other side halls are dedicated to Guanyin and other Bodhisattvas as a host of obscure Taoist deities peek out from smoky shrine niches in the walls.
ShāpōtóuDESERT
(沙坡头 winter/summer ¥65/100; h7am-6pm)
The desert playground of Shāpōtóu, 17km west of Zhōngwèi, lies on the fringes of the Tengger Desert at the dramatic convergence of sand dunes, the Yellow River and lush farmlands. It’s based around the Shāpōtóu Desert Research Centre, which was founded in 1956 to battle the ever-worsening problem of desertification in China’s northwest.
These days, though, Shāpōtóu is more of an amusement park. The main office is more of a massive service centre, with a post office and a large number of shops. You can zipline (¥80) on a wire across the Yellow River, go sand-sledding (¥30), camel riding (¥60 to ¥100) or bungee jumping (¥160).
It’s also a good place to raft the churning Yellow River. The traditional mode of transport on the river for centuries was the yángpí fázi (leather raft), made from sheep or cattle skins soaked in oil and brine and then inflated. From Shāpōtóu you can roar upstream on a speedboat and return on a traditional raft. Prices range from ¥80 to ¥240, depending on how far you go. You can also combine the boat/raft ride with a camel ride (¥110). If you want to flee the crowds for the sands, off-road buggies (¥300 to ¥1500) are available for rent, taking up to three passengers. Tourist buses wheel visitors around (¥10 to ¥15) from point to point.
Shāpō Shānzhuāng is a basic but comfortable hotel near the dunes. Meals are available.
Bus 2 (¥5, 45 minutes) from the bus station (客运总站; kèyùn zǒngzhàn) runs between Zhōngwèi and Shāpōtóu from 7.30am to 6.30pm. You can also pick it up on Changcheng Xijie about 200m past the Gāo Temple on the opposite side of the road. Taxis cost ¥30 each way.
WORTH A TRIP
TENGGER DESERT
If you fancy playing Lawrence of Arabia, make a trip out to the Tengger Desert (腾格里沙漠; Ténggélǐ Shāmò), a mystical landscape of shifting sand dunes and the occasional herd of two-humped camels. Shāpōtóu lies on the southern fringe, but it’s definitely worth heading deeper into the desert to avoid the crowds. The sun is fierce out here, so you’ll need a hat, sunglasses and plenty of water. Nights are cool, so bring a warm layer.
Níngxià Desert Travel Service in Zhōngwèi offers overnight camel treks through the desert, with a visit to the Great Wall by car, for ¥500 per person per day for a group of four. The price includes transport, food and guide. Ask your guide to bring along a sand sled for a sunset surfing session. Drinking beers around the campfire under a starry sky tops off the experience. The desert trek can be combined with a rafting trip down the Yellow River.
4Sleeping
Quite a few hotels in Zhōngwèi won’t accept foreigners. If your Chinese is up to it, you can try your luck with the cheap guesthouses that line the east side of People's Sq and its environs, but we don't guarantee success.
North by Northwest HostelHOSTEL$
(西北偏北青年旅舍; Xīběi Piānběi Qīngniánlǚshè
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0955 763 5060; 453190353@qq.com; 87 Xinglong Beijie; 兴隆北街87号 dm ¥40-50, d/tr ¥150/180; aW)
This is Zhōngwèi’s only hostel, but rooms and shower rooms really need some TLC as things are coming apart at the seams. The murals, mosaic-like washbasins and homemade Zhōngwèi postcards create an art-school vibe and the jovial young staff are extremely helpful, have a go with English and offer Shāpōtóu and desert tours.
oZhōngwèi DàjiǔdiànHOTEL$$
(中卫大酒店
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0955 702 5555; 66 Gulou Beijie, 鼓楼北街66号 d & tw ¥429-498, f ¥598, ste ¥698, all incl breakfast; aW)
This smart hotel has large and comfortable rooms with decent-sized beds and attractive rosewood furniture. Discounts are available outside peak season, bringing room prices down most of the time to the ¥198 mark, making it a bargain.
5Eating
Zhōngwèi Shāngchéng Night MarketMARKET$
(中卫商城夜市; Zhōngwèi Shāngchéng Yèshì
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; off Xinglong Nanjie; 兴隆南街旁边 dishes ¥10-20; h4pm-4am)
A Dante’s Inferno of flaming woks and grills, the night market is made up of countless stalls in the alleys running left off Xinglong Nanjie (which is lined with Chinese-style bars). There are tonnes of cheap eats. Two favourites to check out are ròujiāmó (肉夹馍; fried pork or beef stuffed in bread, sometimes with green peppers and cumin) and shāguō (砂锅; mini hotpot), as well as the ever-present pulled noodles (拉面; lāmiàn).
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Gulou Beijie & Gulou Dongjie; 鼓楼北街鼓楼东街的路口 h9am-5pm)
One of many around town.
Níngxià Desert Travel ServiceTRAVEL AGENCY
(宁夏沙漠旅行社; Níngxià Shāmò Lǚxíngshè
GOOGLE MAP
; %186 0955 9777, 0955 702 7776)
Professional outfit for camel and rafting trips. A five-night desert camping trip starts at around ¥1480. Contact Billy, the English-speaking manager.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú %0955 706 7520; Ping'an Donglu; 平安东路 h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5pm)
Around 3.5km south of the Drum Tower. For visa extensions you have to go to Yínchuān.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The long-distance bus station (汽车客运总站; qìchē kèyùn zǒngzhàn) is 2.5km east of the Drum Tower, along Gulou Dongjie. Take bus 2, which runs to the train station, or a taxi (¥7, 10 minutes). Destinations include the following:
AGùyuán ¥70, four hours, two daily (10.10am and 2.30pm); express bus (快车, kuàichē)
ATóngxīn ¥26, two hours, five daily (from 9am)
AYínchuān ¥35 to ¥53, 2½ hours, every 45 minutes (7.20am to 6pm); express bus
Buses to Xī’ān (¥180, eight hours, 6pm) run every other day from in front of the train station.
Train
You can reach Yínchuān in 2½ hours (¥25, regular), though you’ll be dropped off closer to the city centre in Yínchuān if you take the bus. It’s 5½ hours to Lánzhōu (hard seat/hard sleeper ¥47/101, nine daily) and 12½ hours to Xī’ān (hard/soft sleeper ¥169/253, five daily). For Gùyuán (¥33, 3½ hours, nine daily) take the Xī’ān train. A train ticket office (火车票代售点; Huǒchēpiào Dàishòudiǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Yingli Nanjie & Gulou Xijie; 应理南街鼓楼西街路口 ) can be found in the west of town.
8Getting Around
Bus 2 (¥5) runs to Shāpōtóu ( GOOGLE MAP ) from the main bus station, running along Changcheng Lu, taking 45 minutes. The first bus departs at 7am and the last bus returns at 6pm.
THE HUI
The Hui (回族) are perhaps China’s most unusual ethnic minority; they are the only people to be designated as one solely because of their religious beliefs. The Hui don’t have their own language, speaking only Mandarin, and are scattered throughout every province of the country with nearly 80% of the 10-million-odd Hui living outside their official homeland.
Their origins date back more than 1000 years to the time of the Silk Road, when trade thrived between China and the Middle East and Central Asia. Arab traders intermarried with the local women and now most Hui are ethnically indistinguishable from the Han Chinese. What marks them out is their adherence to Islam.
Most Hui men wear white skullcaps, while many women don headscarves. The more educated can read and speak Arabic, a result of studying the Koran in its original language. For many young Hui, learning Arabic is the path to a coveted job as a translator for the Chinese companies on the east coast doing business in the Middle East.
Although the Hui can be found all over China, they are most numerous in the northwest provinces of Gānsù, Níngxià and Shaanxi. True to their origins as traders and caravanserai operators, many Hui are still engaged in small businesses, especially the running of restaurants.
Gùyuán 固原
%0954 / Pop 1.2 million
An expanding but still small and historic city that dates to the 6th century, Gùyuán (固原) makes a convenient base for exploring little-visited southern Níngxià. Largely populated by easygoing Hui Muslims and a large Han community, the city sees few foreigners, so expect some attention from the locals. An important but abandoned and neglected vestige of the town's history is its City Wall.
1Sights
Xūmí ShānCAVE
(须弥山 ¥50; h8am-5pm)
These magnificent Buddhist grottoes (Xūmí is the Chinese transliteration of the Sanskrit sumeru, or Buddhist paradise) some 50km northwest of Gùyuán are southern Níngxià’s must-see sight. Cut into the five adjacent sandstone hills are 132 caves housing a collection of over 300 Buddhist statues dating back 1400 years, from the Northern Wei to the Sui and Tang dynasties. Cave 5 contains the largest statue, a colossal Maitreya (future Buddha), standing 20.6m high.
Further uphill, the finest statues are protected by the Yuánguāng Temple (圆光寺; Yuánguāng Sì; caves 45 and 46; 6th century) and the Xiànggúo Temple (相国寺; Xiàngguó Sì; cave 51; 7th century), where you can walk around the interior and examine the artwork up close – amazingly, the pigment on several of the statues is still visible in places, despite the obvious weathering.
To reach the caves, buses run from Wenhua Xilu, by the two big hospitals opposite the Xiǎochī night market, to Sānyíng (三营; ¥7, one hour), from where you’ll need to take a taxi for the 40km return trip (¥100 including waiting time) to Xūmí Shān.
Liùpán Shān Guójiā Sēnlín GōngyuánPARK
(六盘山国家森林公园; Liùpán Mountain National Forest Park %0954 564 8319; ¥65; h7am-6pm)
Those on the trail of Genghis Khan will want to visit southern Níngxià’s Liùpán Shān, where some maintain the great man died in 1227. Legend attests that the Mongol emperor fell ill and came here to ingest medicinal plants native to the area, but perished on its slopes (though it’s much more likely he died elsewhere). The mountain is now a protected area.
A walking trail leads 3km up a side valley to a waterfall. About 5km further up the main valley is a clearing with some stone troughs and tables that locals say was used by the Mongols during their stay.
To get here, take a bus from Gùyuán’s main bus station to Jīngyuán (泾源; ¥16, one hour) and then hire a taxi for the final 18km to the reserve (¥80 return). A return taxi from Gùyuán will cost around ¥200.
Gùyuán City WallHISTORIC SITE
(固原城墙; Gùyuán Chéngqiáng Kaicheng Lu; 开城路 )
Largely demolished during the tenure of Mao Zedong, Gùyuán's city wall has mostly vanished, but you can explore its earthen remnants between the two gates of Hépíng Mén (和平门) and Jìngshuò Mén (靖朔门). Just around the corner from Jìngshuò Mén, it's possible to climb atop the earthen city wall (for free) and walk along to Hépíng Mén for around 300m to 400m. The crumbling ramparts are in a state of neglect, but are interesting to explore and afford views over town.
Gùyuán MuseumMUSEUM
(固原博物馆; Gùyuán Bówùguǎn 133 Xicheng Lu; 西城路133号 h9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun, to 6.30pm summer)
For such an out-of-the-way place, Gùyuán’s museum is rather good, with Neolithic-era artefacts, Tangut ceramics and some fine figurines from the Northern Wei dynasty. Decent English captions, too. At the time of writing, the museum was shut for a complete refurbishment.
City God TempleTAOIST SITE
(城隍庙; Chénghuáng Miào 37 Zhengfu Donglu; 政府东路37号 )
A rare vestige of old Gùyuán is this smoky and dusty, single-hall affair, with colourful banners flapping in the breeze outside and the City God enthroned within.
4Sleeping
Gùyuán has several decent and affordable hotels that accept foreigners located close to each other not far from Xiǎochī Night Market.
Liùpánshān BīnguǎnHOTEL$
(六盘山宾馆 %0954 202 1666; 35 Zhongshan Nanjie, 中山南街35号 s ¥158, d ¥146-166, ste ¥580; aW)
The rooms at this long-standing hotel are not the freshest, but they are decent and quiet, and staff, although not used to dealing with foreigners, are helpful. Wi-fi reception in some rooms is rather weak, but regular discounts make it cheap.
Délóng Business HotelHOTEL$$
(德龙商务酒店; Délóng Shāngwù Jiǔdiàn %0954 286 3918; 109 Wenhua Donglu; 文化东路109号 s ¥138, d ¥148-298, ste ¥388; aW)
Friendly, helpful staff and good-sized rooms with modern bathrooms make this the pick of the hotels along Wenhua Donglu, and puts you within walking distance of some good dining choices. Go through the drive-in alley to the reception block at the rear.
5Eating & Drinking
The streets empty around about 10pm in Gùyuán, but you can sink a beer till late and watch the locals coming and going at the Xiǎochī Night Market.
Xiǎochī Night MarketMARKET$
(小吃城; Xiǎochī Chéng 44 Wenhua Donglu; 文化东路44号 dishes from ¥11; hnoon-dawn)
This alley of food stalls runs till the break of dawn and specialises in delicious shāguō (砂锅; mini hotpot), as well as shāokǎo (barbecue) kebabs and noodles. Dishes are on display, so you can pick and choose. It’s down a covered arcade off Wenhua Donglu, directly opposite two big hospitals; look for No 44. Most places are Hui-run, but most serve beer too.
8Information
Make sure to bring cash; precious few ATMs in this part of the world accept foreign cards.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng 6 Zhongshan Nanjie; 中山南街6号 h8am-6pm)
Opposite the Liùpánshān Bīnguǎn.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Gùyuán Liùpánshān Airport (固原六盘山机场; Gùyuán Liùpánshān Jīchǎng ) is just under 9km from town, with flights to Yínchuān, Xī'ān, Chóngqìng and Shànghǎi.
Bus
The long-distance bus station (固原汽车站; Gùyuán Qìchēzhàn %0954 266 2905) is about 4km west of central Gùyuán’s hotels and museum. No buses connect with town; a taxi costs ¥7. There are frequent buses to Tóngxīn (¥26 to ¥33, 1½ hours), Xī’ān (¥120, six hours) and Yínchuān (¥70 to ¥90, four hours), as well as the following destinations:
ALánzhōu ¥100, nine hours, two daily (8am and 3.30pm)
ATiānshuǐ ¥85, seven hours, two daily (6.30am and 10.40am)
AZhōngwèi ¥70, 2½ hours, two daily (10.10am and 3pm)
Train
Gùyuán is on the Zhōngwèi–Bǎojī railway line. Sleeper tickets are near impossible to get and the majority of trains depart in the middle of the night. To get to the train station, on Guxi Lu in the northwest of town around 4km away from the Liùpánshān Bīnguǎn, take bus 1 or a taxi (¥5).
ALánzhōu Seat ¥43 to ¥75, hard sleeper ¥91, 9½ hours, two daily (11.03pm and 11.30pm)
AXī’ān Hard/soft sleeper ¥118/175, six to nine hours, four daily (12.51am, 3.08am, 3.56am and 11.58pm)
AYínchuān Seat/hard sleeper ¥54/108, six hours, six daily (1.25am to 10.34pm)
The Train Ticket Booking Office (火车售票处; Huǒchē Shòupiàochù 6 Zhongshan Nanjie; 中山南街6号 h8am-noon & 2-4pm) is at the post office on Zhongshan Nanjie.
8Getting Around
Bus 1 travels between the long-distance bus station and the train station.
Tóngxīn 同心
%0953 / Pop 400,000
South of Zhōngwèi, the Han Chinese–dominated cities of northern Níngxià give way to the Hui heartland. Journeying here takes you deep into rural Níngxià, through villages of mud-brick houses where the minarets of the numerous mosques tower over the endless cornfields.
Tóngxīn (同心) has a very strong Muslim feel. There are always students in residence at the mosque training to be imams and they will greet you with a salaam alaikum and show you around. Tóngxīn is also one of the few places in China outside of southern Xīnjiāng where you’ll see women in veils and covered from head to toe in black.
1Sights
Great MosqueMOSQUE
(清真大寺; Qīngzhēn Dà Sì ¥15)
Of all the mosques in Níngxià, the most hallowed is the Great Mosque. Dating back to the 14th century (although the present mosque was built in 1573 and then renovated in 1791), it was the only one of Níngxià’s 1000-odd mosques to avoid the ravages of the Cultural Revolution. As such, it’s a near-perfect example of Ming- and Qing-era temple architecture. Not until you get up close and notice the crescents that top the pagoda roofs does it become apparent that it’s a mosque.
4Sleeping & Eating
Most travellers visit Tóngxīn as a day trip from Zhōngwèi, but if you get stuck here, try the Huí Chūn Bīnguǎn (回春宾馆 %0953 803 1888; Yinping Xijie; 银平西街 d ¥138; a) opposite the bus station.
As a largely Muslim town, the opportunities for drinking and nightlife are limited in Tóngxīn. It's best to head to Zhōngwèi or Yínchuān for a knees-up.
8Getting There & Away
There are frequent express buses between Tóngxīn and Yínchuān (¥52, three hours), making a long day trip possible. The last bus back to Yínchuān leaves at 4pm. You could also visit from Zhōngwèi (¥26, 2½ hours), or stop for a couple of hours if you are heading further south to Gùyuán (¥26, two hours).