Qīnghǎi

Pop 5.6 million

Why Go?

Big, bold and beautifully barren, Qīnghǎi (青海), larger than any country in the EU, occupies a vast swath of the northeastern chunk of the Tibetan Plateau. As far as Tibetans are concerned, this is Amdo, one of old Tibet’s three traditional provinces. Much of what you’ll experience here will feel more Tibetan than Chinese; there are monasteries galore, yaks by the thousands and nomads camped out across high-altitude grasslands.

Rough-and-ready Qīnghǎi, which means 'Blue Sea' in Chinese, is classic off-the-beaten-track territory, often with a last frontier feel to it. Travelling here can be a little inconvenient, though China’s rapid development plans have begun to touch the province, with huge highways and new rail lines under construction. Despite that, Qīnghǎi still delivers a heavy dose of solitude among middle-of-nowhere high-plateau vistas, Martian-like red mountains, mouth-watering cuisine and encounters with remote communities of China’s ethnic minorities.

When to Go

AJan & Feb Tibetan New Year (Losar), with lots of pilgrims and celebrations at monasteries.

AJul & Aug Grasslands at their greenest; landscape dotted with nomad tents.

ASep Safest and most comfortable time for hiking around Mt Amnye Machen.

Best Monasteries & Temples

A Kumbum Monastery

A Yòuníng Monastery

A Lóngwù Sì

A Princess Wencheng Temple

A Dana Gompa

Best Natural Sights

A Nangchen County

A Qīnghǎi Lake & Chákǎ Salt Lake

A Kanbula National Park

A Mt Amnye Machen

A Zhālíng & Èlíng Lakes

Qīnghǎi Highlights

1 Qīnghǎi Lake Cycling along on the shores of the largest lake in China.

2 Kanbula National Park Hiking and scrambling across Martian-like red mountains.

3 Qīnghǎi–Tibet Railway Taking the iconic train ride to Lhasa from Xīníng or Golmud.

4 Mt Amnye Machen Joining pilgrims on a trek on eastern Tibet’s most sacred mountain.

5 Tóngrén Buying a Tibetan thangka straight from the artist’s easel.

6 Princess Wencheng Temple Walking through a web of prayer flags around the hills beside Yùshù.

7 Guìdé Turning the world’s largest prayer wheel near the walled Old Town.

8 Source of the Yellow River Venturing across the Qīnghǎi–Tibet plateau to the source of China's most important river.

History

The northern Silk Road passed through what is now Qīnghǎi province, and in 121 BC the Han dynasty established a military base near modern Xīníng to counter Tibetan raids on trading caravans.

During the Yarlung dynasty, a time of great expansion of Tibetan power and influence, Qīnghǎi was brought directly under Lhasa’s control. After the collapse of the dynasty in AD 842, local rulers filled the ensuing power vacuum, some nominally acting as vassals of Song dynasty emperors.

In the 13th century, all of Qīnghǎi was incorporated into the Yuan empire under Genghis Khan. During this time, the Tǔ began to move into the area around Hùzhù, followed a century or so later by the Salar Muslims into Xúnhuà.

After the fall of the Yuan dynasty, local Mongol rulers and the Dalai Lamas in Lhasa wrestled for power. The Qing emperors restored the region to full Chinese control, setting it up as a prefecture with more or less the same boundaries as today. As in the past, however, they left administrative control in the hands of local elites.

Qīnghǎi became a province of China in 1928 during the republican era, though at the time it was under the de facto control of the Muslim Ma clan. When the People's Republic of China was established in 1949, Qīnghǎi retained its provincial borders and capital city, Xīníng.

In the late 1950s an area near Qīnghǎi Lake (青海湖; Qīnghǎi Hú) became the centre of China’s nuclear weapons research program. During the next 40 years, at least 30 tests were held at a secret base, the Qīnghǎi Mine.

In April 2010, Yùshù, a Tibetan town in remote southwest Qīnghǎi, was devastated by a 7.1-magnitude earthquake. Thousands died – some say tens of thousands – but the rebuilding effort was swift and Yùshù's main centre reopened as a tourist destination in early 2014.

Today, the province is experiencing rapid growth (not unlike the rest of China). It's not uncommon to see large apartment blocks under construction in the capital Xīníng and even in provincial towns. Highways are being constructed to connect places like Mt Amnye Machen to the rest of the province.

8Entry & Exit Formalities

As with everything in China, things change rapidly in Qīnghǎi and areas that may be open to travellers one week could be closed or require permits the next. It’s always best to check once you arrive before heading to a new destination. The Xīníng Public Security Bureau has updated lists.

8Getting There & Around

Off-the-beaten-track overland routes include south into Sìchuān, at Aba or Shíqú, and north into Gānsù or Xīnjiāng from Golmud (check before going as foreigners travelling this way may need a special permit). Routes southwest into Tibet are even more remote and are usually closed to foreigners altogether, and some areas north of Qīnghǎi Lake have been closed to foreigners for years.

Most people arrive by train, usually into Xīníng, but after that train lines are limited, so long-distance buses are the best way to get around. In more remote areas you’ll often have no option but to hire a private car and driver.

Xīníng 西宁

%0971 / Pop 2.2 million

Situated on the eastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau, this lively provincial capital makes a good base from which to dive into the surrounding sights and on to the more remote regions of Qīnghǎi and beyond. Though many travellers use Xīníng (西宁) as a jumping-off or landing point from the Qīnghǎi–Tibet Railway, it’s also a wonderful place to explore the province’s varied cultures – Muslim (Huí, Salar and Uighur), Tibetan and Han Chinese – especially the dynamite culinary mix that these groups bring together.

Xīníng

1Sights

1Dōngguān Grand MosqueE3

2Nánchán SìA4

3Xīníng City WallC4

4Sleeping

4Lete Youth HostelC4

5Sanwant Hotel XiningA3

5Eating

6Elite's Bar & GrillC1

7Mǎzhōng Snack CentreC2

8Shuíjǐng Xiàng (Food Street)B2

6Drinking & Nightlife

91/2 SugarB1

10GreenhouseC3

7Shopping

11Xīníng Tibetan MarketG3

1Sights

oTibetan Culture & Medicine MuseumMUSEUM

(藏文化博物馆; Zàng Wénhuà Bówùguǎn %0971 531 7881; www.tibetanculturemuseum.org; 36 Jing'er Rd; 经二路36号 ¥60; h9am-6pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr; g1)

Exhibitions at this museum focus on traditional Tibetan medicine, astronomy and science, as well as traditional Tibetan life, homes and costumes. The highlight is a 618m-long thangka (Tibetan sacred art) scroll – the world’s longest – which charts most of Tibetan history. Completed in 1997, it’s not an ancient relic, but it is unbelievably long. It took 400 artists four years to complete and is displayed in a maze-like exhibition hall.

The museum is located on the far northwest side of Xīníng. Bus 1 (¥1, 35 minutes) goes here from Dong Dajie (stop at 新乐花园). A taxi costs about ¥20 from the city.

Dōngguān Grand MosqueMOSQUE

(清真大寺; Qīngzhēn Dàsì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Dongguan Dajie; 东关大街25号 h7am-8pm)F

About one-third of Xīníng’s population is Muslim and there are more than 80 mosques across the city. It's not the prettiest, but in fact, it’s one of the largest mosques in China. Friday lunchtime prayers regularly attract 50,000 worshippers, who spill out onto the streets before and afterwards. And during Ramadan as many as 300,000 come here to pray, with police closing off the streets to traffic.

Nánchán SìBUDDHIST SITE

(南禅寺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 93 Nanshan Lu; 南山路93号 )

Stood atop Phoenix Mountain, this Buddhist temple is the southern counterpart to Běichán Sì (北禅寺 h8am-4pm), overlooking Xīníng from the south. The temple was built during the Northern Song dynasty (960–1127) and is the oldest Chan (Chinese Zen) Buddhist temple in Qīnghǎi province. It's a quiet spot that leads to good views of the city.

Xīníng City WallRUINS

(西宁城墙; Xīníng Chéngqiáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kunlun Zhonglu; 昆仑中路 )F

One or two isolated sections of Xīníng’s old city wall still remain, the most accessible being this short stretch within a park on Kunlun Zhonglu. The wall was originally built in 1385, but different portions were erected, repaired or left to crumble over subsequent centuries. The wall’s remains, an overgrown dirt embankment beside a busy road, aren’t all that impressive; however, the tiered pathways that wind through the park make for a pleasant stroll in good weather.

WORTH A TRIP

YòUNíNG MONASTERY

Yòuníng MonasteryMONASTERY

(佑宁寺; Yòuníng Sì h8am-6pm)F

Well known throughout the Tibetan world, this 17th-century hillside monastery in the Hùzhù Tǔzú (互助土族) Autonomous County is considered one of the greats of the Gelugpa order. The monastery lies at the edge of a forested valley, and many chapels perch wondrously on the sides of a cliff face. Give yourself a couple of hours to explore the entire picturesque area.

Famous for its academies of medicine and astrology, its scholars and its living Buddhas (tulku), Yòuníng Monastery (Rgolung in Tibetan) was instrumental in solidifying Gelugpa dominance over the Amdo region. The monastery was founded by the Mongolian 4th Dalai Lama, and over time became a religious centre for the local Tǔ (themselves a distant Mongolian people). At its height, over 7000 monks resided here; these days there are probably fewer than 200, all of whom are Tǔ. Expansion works continue in the main complex. Three kilometres up the road from the main complex is a small kora that takes you up a smaller temple and up the surrounding hills.

A daily bus (¥12, 90 minutes, 10.30am) departs from Bayi Road Bus Station. Otherwise, take a bus to Píng’ān (¥8, 40 minutes) from Xīníng’s Public Bus Terminal. From there, you'll need to hire a taxi (one way/return ¥70/100, 30 minutes), Alternately, if you have a group, you could hire a private car or taxi (return ¥400) from Xīníng. The monastery is about 25km north of Píng'ān.

4Sleeping

Xīníng has a wealth of sleeping options and its first foreign five-star hotel, the Sofitel, opened here west of town in 2015.

City Nomad Youth HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 2605844103@qq.com; 11th fl, Unit 3, Bldg 6, Nanshan Lu, Jianxin Longyuan Pinnacle Lane Commune; 南山路建新巷陇原叠翠小区6号楼3单元11楼 dm ¥45-50, d without bathroom ¥120; W; g31)

Xīníng's newest hostel is run by friendly, English-speaking Tashi. Located in a tatty high-rise slightly south of town, City Nomad is nonetheless a good spot to base yourself. Tibetan decor spruces up the place and rooms are cosy and clean, and there's a good stream of international travellers. Note that there's only one shower. Bookings by email only.

The best way to get here is via taxi (¥15) or take bus 31 from the railway station and get off at the Tibetan Medicine Hospital (藏医院) stop, walk back 25m to Jïanxìn Xīang (建新巷) and up the road 150m till you see a gated complex on the right. Look for the first blue building on the left and find doorway 3. You can get also bus tickets from a China Post office just to the left of the compound as you exit. As a former guide, Tashi also helps with Tibetan visas and local travel plans.

Qīnghǎi Sāngzhū Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(青海桑珠国际青年旅舍; Qīnghǎi Sāngzhū Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè %189 9704 0278; szhostel@163.com; 94 Huzhu Zhonglu; 互助中路94号 dm/d ¥55/130; iW; g32, 33)

A spacious hostel with a big lounge decorated with Tibetan artwork. The rooms have comfortable beds and bathrooms are decent too. It's more popular with Chinese backpackers, though some English is spoken. There’s traveller information posted on the walls. It’s a 2.5km east of the train station, however, so you’ll need to take a bus (32 or 33) or taxi to get anywhere.

Sanwant Hotel XiningHOTEL$$$

(西寧神旺大酒店; Xīníng Shénwàng Dà Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0971 820 1111; http://sanwant-xining.hotel.com.tw; 79 Changjiang Lu; 長江路79号 s/d ¥680/780; paiW)

If you're looking to splash out a little, this international hotel does the trick, with clean rooms, English-speaking staff and a tour desk that can arrange excursions in the area. Rooms are of an international standard, with private bathrooms (and tubs), though like many international hotels in this part of China, the decor is a bit dated. Breakfast included.

FULL HOUSE

Scoring a hotel room in Xīníng and popular tourist spots during the summer months can be surprisingly difficult, especially for foreigners as not all places will accept them. Book your room or dorm bed as early as possible, preferably one week in advance, especially in July and August.

PRICE RANGES

EATING

The following price ranges refer to a meal for one.

$ less than ¥30

$$ ¥30–¥50

$$$ more than ¥50

SLEEPING

The following price ranges refer to a private double room.

$ less than ¥180

$$ ¥180–¥320

$$$ more than ¥320

5Eating

Xīníng has a great range of food, especially Tibetan and Hui Muslim cuisines. For Muslim food head to Dongguan Dajie, near the Grand Mosque, or the northern stretch of Nanxiaojie. Most malls have a food court on the upper floors with easy point-and-choose options.

Elite's Bar & GrillINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %138 9747 2199; Qiyi Lu; 七一路 dishes ¥30-80, drinks from ¥20; hnoon-midnight)

If you have a hankering for Western food, Elite's extensive menu should do the job. Massive burgers, pulled pork, steaks, salads... Elite's serves it all up. There's a good wine and beer list at decent prices, too. Located 150m east of the Xīníng Bīnguǎn (西宁宾馆).

Ah Ma LaTIBETAN$$

(阿妈啦 GOOGLE MAP ; 120 Nanshan Donglu; 南山东路120号 dishes ¥15-150; h10am-10.30pm)

Delish Tibetan food, tacky decor, English-speaking Tibetan boss, picture menu. That pretty much sums up the Ah Ma La experience. Slide into a booth seat and order up authentic Tibetan dishes such as yak tongue and mómo (馍馍; dumplings) and wash it down with Lhasa beer. The restaurant is along Nanshan Donglu, opposite the Tibetan Hospital.

QīNGHǎI EATS

Qīnghǎi’s cuisine is rather unique. Influenced by its mix of ethnic populations – Muslim (Huí, Salar and Uighur), Tibetan and Han Chinese – the food you’ll eat here is hearty fare with an emphasis on breads, dumplings and lots of lamb. The following are Qīnghǎi staples. To sample, head to the Mǎzhōng Snack Centre (马忠美食城; Mǎzhōng Měishíchéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 11-16 Mojia Jie; 莫家街11-16号 noodles ¥10-18, dishes from ¥25) or Shuíjǐng Xiàng (水井巷 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shuijing Xiang) in Xīníng, where all the options are laid out for the taking.

Miànpiàn (面片) Literally translated as ‘noodle slices,’ this dish consists of small, flat squares of noodles cooked in a light broth with greens, fresh tomato and sometimes egg and bits of meat. This is a favourite local snack and you’ll see small restaurants all over the province with blinking signs boasting the Chinese characters for miànpiàn.

Kǎobǐng (烤饼) These thick bread buns are baked and then further roasted over coal fire and lightly dusted with spicy chilli powder, garlic salt and spices. Order in Muslim restaurants or procure from street vendors, who roast them over coal after dark.

Mómo (馍馍) Tibetan-style dumplings similar to Chinese bāozi (steamed meat buns), typically filled with savoury lamb mince and served with spiced chilli oil. An alternate version is served in hot broth.

Yak milk yoghurt (牦牛酸奶, máoniú suānnǎi) Whether love or hate, visitors usually have a strong reaction to this Tibetan-style yoghurt made from yak’s milk. Shops and vendors all over Qīnghǎi sell small portions in plastic cups or bowls, usually served with a sprinkling of rock sugar to balance the tartness. It’s a wonderfully fresh dessert or snack. Locals also claim it helps combat altitude sickness.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Open-air beer gardens line both sides of the Nánchuān River between Kunlun Zhonglu and Xiguan Jie, most of which are open from the afternoon till early evening serving big bottles of local beer and snacks.

For a more mellow evening, there's a growing set of cafes, music bars and pubs along Xiadu Dajie between Nanxiao Jie and Huayuan Nanjie near Greenhouse.

o1/2 SugarBAR

(Bàn Táng Qù; 半糖趣 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Qiyi Lu, Xindadi Huayuan; 七一路新大地花园 beer from ¥30, coffee from ¥26; h1pm-1am; W)

Xīníng just upped its hipster game with an unlikely (but cool) craft brewery and cafe. Sitting in a purpose-built complex off a small alley behind Qiyi Jie, knowledgeable staff can recommend and let you sample draft beer from all over China, including their in-house IPA. A large international craft-beer selection is available at reasonable prices.

An ever-expanding menu of Western faves such as burgers and pizza is worth a look at and there's great coffee if beer isn't your thing.

To find the place, walk 200m west from Xīníng Bīnguǎn (西宁宾馆) and turn right into the first unmarked alley and right again into an open compound. The bar is in a grey-bricked complex on the left.

GreenhouseCAFE

(古林坊咖啡; Gǔlínfáng Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0971 820 2710; 222-22 Xiadu Dajie; 夏都大街222-22号 coffee from ¥25, food ¥33-80; h8:30am-midnight; W)

Rustic split-level wood interior with smoothies and some of the best coffee in town. You can also munch on pizzas, burgers and sandwiches to a mellow music selection. The building facade was under construction at the time of research.

Lìméng Business Pedestrian StreetBAR STREET

(Lìméng Shāngyèxiàng Bùxíngjiē; 力盟商业巷步行街 off Wusi Dajie)

There's a cluster of decent bars (some with live music) at a 'new' pedestrian street in 3.5km west of town. You'll also find Western cafes such as Starbucks, a couple of malls and a range of modern chain restaurants. It's a ¥10 taxi ride from town and sits between Wusi Dajie and Xiguan Dajie .

7Shopping

Xīníng Tibetan MarketMARKET

(西藏市场; Xīzàng Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xiǎoshāngpǐn Shìchǎng, Huzhu Lu; 互助路小商品市场 h9am-5pm)

The four floors of this market are chock-full of Tibetan goods and you’ll see groups of monks stopping in to stock up on various Buddhist knick-knacks and attire. A few shops specialise in Tibetan Buddhist music (and instruments), and there are numerous places to score a statue of a Buddha or Bodhisattva or a string of prayer flags.

8Information

Free wi-fi is available in plenty of places. Tiāntángniǎo Internet (天堂鸟网络, Tiāntángniǎo wǎngluò GOOGLE MAP ; Dong Dajie; per hr ¥2-3.50; h24hr) is a basic internet cafe popular with the local gamers.

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Dong Dajie; 东大街22号 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Has a number of large branches around town that exchange cash and have foreign-friendly ATMs.

ICBC ATMATM

(工商银行; Gōngshāng Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 55 Nanxiaojie; 南小街55号 )

Has ATMs that accept foreign cards.

Mystic Tibet ToursTRAVEL AGENCY

(%182 0971 5464; http://mystictibettours.com; Suite 2082, 24 Bayi Rd; 24号八一路2082室 )

Excellent agency run by English-speaking Tibetan guide Gonkho. Organises tours around Amdo including Amnye Machen. Located 10km east of town. Your best bet is to email or call Gonkho in advance.

Post OfficePOST

(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Xi Dajie & Bei Dajie; 西大街北大街的路口 h8.30am-6pm)

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; 35 Bei Dajie; 北大街35号 h8.30-11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri)

Can extend visas.

Qīnghǎi Red Cross HospitalHOSPITAL

(青海红十字医院; Qīnghǎi Hóngshízì Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0971 824 7545; Nan Dajie)

English-speaking doctors available. Outpatients (门诊部; ménzhěn bù) has a 24-hour pharmacy (药店; yàodiàn).

Snow Lion ToursTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0971 816 3350; www.snowliontours.com; Office 408, Xiadu Dasha Bldg, Xiadu Dajie; 夏都大厦，夏都大街 h9am-6pm)

Run by a knowledgeable English-speaking Tibetan, Wangden; arranges treks, camping with nomads and Tibet permits.

Tibetan ConnectionsTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %189 9720 0974; www.tibetanconnections.com; 12th fl, Bldg 5, International Village Apartments, 2-32 Jiancai Xiang, Guoji Cun Gong Yu; 建材巷国际村公寓5号楼12楼1209室 )

This Tibetan-run tour company focuses on remoter parts of Amdo and Kham but can arrange trips into Tibet. Prices may be a little higher than local travel agencies but staff speak English and are good to deal with.

The agency is located below the Lete Youth Hostel (理体青年旅舍; Lǐtǐ Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0971 820 2080; xnletehostel@gmail.com; 15th fl, Bldg 5, International Village Apartments, 2-32 Jiancai Xiang; 建材巷国际村公寓5号楼15层 dm ¥40-55, d with/without bathroom ¥140/70; iW) on the 12th floor.

8Getting There & Away

Air

The airport is 27km east of the city. There are daily flights to Běijīng (¥1250), Chéngdū (¥990), Shànghǎi (¥1800), Yùshù (¥1500), Golmud (¥1350), Tīanjīn (¥950) and Xī’ān (¥650). There are now daily direct flights to Lhasa (¥1330).

The Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC; 中国民航; Zhōngguó Mínháng %0971 813 3333; 32 Bayi Xilu; h8.30am-5.30pm) has a booking office on Bayi Lu near the Bayi Road bus station. Shuttle buses (¥21, 35 minutes) leave hourly from there, the main bus station and from outside the Qīnghǎi Bīnguǎn (青海宾馆), just west of town across the river (¥10 taxi ride from town).

Bus

Xīníng has way too many bus stations for a city of its size. Most leave from the Xīníng Main Bus Station (西宁客运车站; Xīníng Kèyùn Chēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; 200m east of the main train station) beside the main railway station, but some buses leave from from one of the other three (!) stations.

From Xining Main Bus Station, there are buses to the following:

ABird Island ¥66, 4½ hours, 7.45am

AChákǎ ¥60, five hours, five daily (8am, 9.45am, 11am, 12.35pm, 3.30pm)

AGolmud ¥165, 15 hours, four daily (2pm, 5pm, 5.30pm, 6pm)

AHēimǎhé ¥44, four hours, two daily (8.30am, 9.30am)

AHùzhù Běishān National Forest Park ¥30, four hours, two daily (noon, 2pm)

AKanbula National Park ¥23, 2½ hours, 10.30am and every 30 minutes from noon to 5pm

AKumbum Monastery ¥6, 45 minutes, every 20 minutes from 7am to 6.30pm

ALánzhōu ¥65, three hours, hourly from 7.20am to 6.30pm

ALínxià ¥61, five hours, hourly from 7.15am to 10.15am

AQīnghǎi Lake ¥34, three hours, hourly from 8am to 6pm

ATóngrén ¥31, four hours, every 40 minutes from 7.30am to 5.30pm

AXīhǎi Zhèn ¥25, 2½ hours, every 25 minutes from 7.30am to 5.30pm

AYùshù Seat/sleeper ¥191/211, 15 hours, hourly from 11am to 6pm

Of the other three stations:

Bayi Road Station (八一路汽车站; Bāyī Lù Qìchē Zhàn cnr Bayi Lu & Huangzhong Lu; 八一路和湟中路路口 ) runs buses to Tóngrén (¥35, four hours, every 30 minutes from 7.30am to 5pm) and Yòuníng Temple (¥12, 70 minutes, 10.30am)

Nanchuan West Road Passenger Transport Terminal (南川西路客运站; Nánchuān Xilù Kèyùn Zhàn 4 Nanchuan Xilu; 南川西路4号 ) has buses to Guìdé (¥26, two hours, every 20 minutes from 7.35am to 5.30pm) and Mǎduō (¥100, eight hours, 8am)

Public Bus Terminal (公脚车站; Gōngjiāo Chēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) has a bus to Pïngān (¥5, two hours, every five minutes) and also connects with terminal station for local buses.

The Xinning Road Passenger Transport Terminal (新宁路客运站; Xīnníng Lù Kèyùn Zhàn Xinning Lu; 新宁路 ), 2.5km northwest of the city, is the least useful station. There are buses from here to Lèdū (¥21, one hour, every 15 minutes from 7am to 6.45pm).

Train

The Xīníng Railway Station (火车站; Huǒchē Zhàn) reopened in September 2015, with new high-speed rail services passing through here between Lánzhōu in Gānsù province and Ürümqi in Xīnjiāng. Regional trains also start/stop at Xīníng West Railway Station (西火车站; Xī Huǒchē Zhàn), about 10km west of the city centre.

Lhasa-bound trains pass through Xīníng (hard/soft sleeper ¥500/800, 22 hours) on their way towards the now world-famous Qīnghǎi–Tibet Railway stretch of China’s rail network. Make sure to have all your Tibet papers in order and get tickets way in advance.

Other destinations from Xīníng:

ABěijīng Hard/soft sleeper ¥288/500, 18 to 24 hours

AChéngdū Hard/soft sleeper ¥332/478, 25 hours

AGolmud Seat/hard sleeper ¥114/220, eight to 11 hours

ALánzhōu Seat ¥40, 2½ hours

AXī’ān Seat/hard sleeper ¥115/230, 10 to 14 hours

8Getting Around

City buses cost ¥1 per ride. A handy route is bus 1, which runs from Bayi Road Bus Station along Dongguan Dajie before heading north to the nearby Tibetan Culture Museum, a 45-minute ride.

Taxis are easy to flag and cost ¥8 for the first 3km and ¥1.40 per kilometre thereafter. Ignore the touts at stations.

While it's best to catch buses from the stations, some travellers prefer to take a shared taxi/minibus to Guìdé ( GOOGLE MAP ; per person ¥70; hleaves when full.) or Kumbum Monastery ( GOOGLE MAP ; per person ¥10; hleaves when full); for both destinations you can find drivers near or in the parking space under the bridge at the corner of Kunlun Zhonglu and Changjiang Lu.

Around Xīníng

Qīnghǎi Lake 青海湖

China’s largest lake, Qīnghǎi Lake (青海湖; Qīnghǎi Hú; Lake Kokonor; elevation 3600m) is nearly six times the size of Singapore and a huge draw for large tour groups. While it can be maddeningly difficult to get to the actual shoreline, views of the lake backdropped by mountains still make the trek out worthwhile.

Plenty of Chinese tourists come in for whistle-stop one- or two-day guided tours, but the lake is now popular with more adventurous sorts who rent bikes for a more leisurely circuit around the lake. If the latter appeals, head to Xīhǎi Zhèn (西海镇) where you can rent good-quality bikes and gear.

Avoid the lake on the weekends and public holidays when traffic slows to a crawl. Sights are organised by proximity to Xīníng.

Chákǎ Salt LakeLAKE

(茶卡盐湖; Chákǎ Yánhú ¥50)

Located 25km west of the main lake past Heīmǎhé, this salt lake is a popular side trip for a stunning optical illusion that occurs between noon and 4pm daily. On a clear day, you can capture amazing photographs of skies and people mirrored onto the lake's surface.

In order to get the best portraits on the lake, wear something bright (yellow, blue and red are great). Black and grey colours are hipster cool but they don't show up very well in images.

A daily train (¥62.50, five hours, 8.25am) from Xīníng to Chákǎ drops you just at the tourist entrance of the lake. It returns at 5.30pm so you could do the salt lake as a long day trip if you aren't coming from the main lake. Buses from Xīníng (¥60, five hours, 8am, 9.25am and noon) drop you at the Chákǎ town, 2km from the lake, where waiting taxis will take you the rest of the way for ¥30.

From Heīmǎhé, you can flag down a bus to Chákǎ (roughly noon and 1.25pm) or hire a private car (¥320 return).

Bird IslandISLAND

(鸟岛; Niǎo Dǎo ¥115)

This island (now in fact a peninsula) on China’s largest lake is the breeding ground for thousands of wild geese, gulls, cormorants, sandpipers, extremely rare black-necked cranes and other bird species. Perhaps the most interesting are the bar-headed geese that migrate over the Himalaya to spend winter on the Indian plains, and have been spotted flying at altitudes of 10,000m.

The island is located on the western side of the lake, about 300km from Xīníng. The best time to visit is from March to late May, when migratory birds have stopped over to nest.

A daily bus (¥66, five hours, 7.45am) leaves from Xīníng's main bus station. From Heīmǎhé, you can flag down a bus to Bird Island (roughly 11.45am) or hire a private car (¥340 return).

Qīnghǎi Hú Jīshí Guójì Qīngnián LǚshèHOSTEL$

(青海湖奇石国际青年旅舍 %0974 851 9313; dm ¥50-70, d ¥180-220; W)

Handy hostel with clean rooms, located at the eastern end of the main street in Heīmǎhé. It's nothing special but you can find other travellers for shared trips to Bird Island (¥80 per person or ¥340 per car) and Chákǎ Salt Lake (¥80 per person or ¥320 per car). Staff also organise a driver to take you to the shore for sunrise (¥25 per person).

One way to see the sights around Qīnghǎi Lake is by hiring a private car and driver (¥500 to ¥600 per day). Alternately, all-inclusive overnight stays and multiday trips can be organised through travel agencies in Xīníng. Touts abound at every bus station in Xīníng; bargain hard and you could score a great deal on a shared taxi.

Alternatively, you can take a bus from the Xīníng bus station to Xīhǎi Zhèn (西海镇), from where you can rent bikes to tour the lake.

If you want to do the lake via public transport, there's a new daily train service that goes from Xīníng to Chákǎ (¥62.50, 8.25am, five hours). If you take this route, you can work your way back towards Xīníng across two days by taking a bus back and stopping along Heīmǎhé (黑马河), zipping up to Bird Island and then looping back down to Èrlángjiàn Scenic Area and then back to Xīníng.

Xīhǎi Zhèn

%0970 / Pop 12,000

A tidy little town, 43km east of Qīnghǎi Lake, Xīhǎi Zhèn is where travellers come to rent bicycles for a tour round the lake. There's not much to see in town, so plan on getting here early, picking up your bikes, grabbing supplies and then hitting the road.

Xīhǎi Zhèn is small and easy to get around on foot. With more than 20 bicycle-rental stores, you're spoilt for choice.

Bike rental ranges from ¥80 to ¥180, depending on the model. All are solid brand-name bikes and rental includes panniers, helmet, tool kit and spares. The sun gets really harsh so be sure to bring sunscreen, long-sleeved riding gear, sunglasses and a face bandana.

The full circuit round the lake is 360km and takes four days but you can drop your bikes off at various stops along the lake if you don't fancy riding all the way. Ask the store where you drop them off. Stores can also suggest itineraries and offer discounted accommodation with hotel partners around the lake.

Qīnghǎi Hú Zìxíngchē JìbīnguǎnCYCLING

(青海湖自行车骑宾管 %0970 864 2113, 138 9710 9209; www.qhhzxc.cn; Menyuan Lu; bike rental per day ¥80-180; h8am-6pm)

The town's largest bicycle-rental store has the best selection of models (including one they designed themselves) and all the gear you'll need for a tour around the lake. Staff are friendly and can help with planning your journey although English is limited.

From the bus station, head east and after 100m make a right at the T-intersection. This store is behind a gate: you can't miss it.

Hǎiběi BīnguǎnHOTEL$$

(海北宾馆 %0970 864 2648; 17 Yintan Lu; d ¥158-258; W)

If you happen to get stuck in town for the night, this is the only hotel that accepts foreigners. The cheaper rooms in the older wing are a little dated but clean, while the pricier rooms feature flat-screen TVs and fresher fittings.

The main bus station is on the east end of Yuanzi Lu (原子路). There are regular buses to Xīníng (¥25, two hours) from 7.30am to 5pm.

Kumbum Monastery 塔尔寺

Kumbum MonasteryMONASTERY

(塔尔寺; Tǎ’ěr Sì ¥80; h8.30am-6pm)

One of the great monasteries of the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism, Kumbum Monastery was built in 1577 on hallowed ground – the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, founder of the sect. It’s of enormous historical significance, and hundreds of monks still live here but, perhaps because it’s such a big tourist draw, the atmosphere can feel a bit overrun. The artwork and architecture, however, remain impressive.

Nine temples are open, each with its own characteristics. The most important is the Grand Hall of Golden Tiles (大金瓦殿; Dàjīnwǎ Diàn), where an 11m-high chörten (Tibetan stupa) marks the spot of Tsongkhapa’s birth. You’ll see pilgrims walking circuits of the building and prostrating outside the entrance. Also worth seeking out is the Yak Butter Scripture Temple (酥油画馆; Sūyóuhuà Guǎn), which houses sculptures of human figures, animals and landscapes carved out of yak butter.

Kumbum is located 27km from Xīníng in the town of Huángzhōng. Buses (¥6, 35 minutes) leave every 20 minutes from the Xīníng Main Bus Station starting at 7am. Get off at the last stop and walk up the hill to the monastery. The last bus back is at 7pm.

Hùzhù Běishān Forest National Park

%0972 / Pop 11,149

Hùzhù Běishān Forest National ParkNATIONAL PARK

(互助北山国际森林公园; Hùzhù Běishān Guójiā Sēnlín Gōngyuán ¥82, incl mandatory transport ticket)

Here is proof, should you need it, that Qīnghǎi has incredibly diverse landscapes: an alpine forest located 100km north of Xīníng with an elevation that spans 2200m to 4000m. Within are farming communities, ranging mountain goats, family restaurants, birch forests, waterfalls, lakes and plenty of hiking opportunities. The national park is popular with Xīníng folks seeking a weekend retreat.

Your ticket includes access to a tourist car that zips across several stops and you can hop on and off anywhere within the park. Some of the more interesting sites includes a couple of waterfalls (瀑布; pùbù) where you can soak your feet, and the Sleeping Buddha (睡佛; Shuìfò), a rock that looks like, well, a sleeping Buddha. If you're game, you can hike 7km up to the tiny Heavenly Lake (Tīanchí; 天池) at 3000m elevation. Hiking opportunities abound: join grazing goats and look out for chubby marmots.

You can do homestays with locals (¥100) or stay at the Cáilúnduō Sēnlín Nóngzhuāng, a lodge with dorm beds and private rooms.

oCáilúnduō Sēnlín NóngzhuāngLODGE$$

(才伦多森林农庄 %155 9722 9788; cailunduo@sina.com; dm/d ¥60/260, family ¥100 per bed; pW#)

This sprawling lodge was built by a local who made good as an interior designer in Wúhàn before settling with his family back here. The eclectic compound houses 19 comfortable rooms, a BBQ patio, riverside pagodas (for 'daydreaming') and a restaurant wing. While short on English, the owners are high on service. Sample the in-house brewed highland barley báijiǔ (clear liquor) and pick local dishes (from ¥15) such as yak and wild mushrooms from an English menu.

Get the tourist car to drop you off at Cáilúnduō (才伦多), 4km from the main gate. There are some good trails behind the lodge that lead up the back mountain for good views.

From Xīníng, there's a daily 9.45am bus (¥28.50, four hours) from the main bus station. It may stop in the town of Hùzhù for 45 minutes so don't panic. Coming back, there's a 4pm bus that returns to Xīníng.

WORTH A TRIP

KANBULA NATIONAL PARK 坎布拉国家森林公园

Kanbula National ParkNATIONAL PARK

(坎布拉国家森林公园; Kǎnbùlā Guójiā Sēnlín Gōngyuán incl bus & boat tour ¥240; h8am-6pm)

The desert scenery outside of Tóngrén comes to a pinnacle in this national park where flaming-red mountains meet the turquoise waters of a reservoir created by the damming of the Yellow River. A nervous-sweat-inducing road snakes up through the park’s peaks, past sleepy Tibetan villages and colourful prayer flags waving high on the wind.

Alas, the park no longer allows private cars unless you're a) coming from Guìdé or b) in a local car. This means you're either shunted on a pricey but decent fixed bus-and-boat tour (roughly three hours) or you can skip the entrance fee and fully experience the park, including plenty of photo stops, by going with a local taxi driver (¥100 if you find at least one other person to share with).

Otherwise, find a private driver to bring you here from Guìdé (¥400 per day). To get here from Xīníng, take the 10.30am bus to Kanbula from the main bus station. You'll be dropped 7km from the park entrance. Taxis will take you there for ¥10. The last bus returns at 4.30pm or so so make sure you get out early otherwise you'll have to stay the night where the bus drops you or hitch back.

Tóngrén 同仁

%0973 / Pop 308,583

Tóngrén (同仁; Rebkong in Tibetan) is set on the slopes of the wide and fertile Gu-chu river valley. For several centuries now, the villages outside the monastery town of Tóngrén have been famous for producing some of the Tibetan world’s best thangkas (scroll paintings) and painted statues, so much so that an entire school of Tibetan art is named after the town. Visiting Wútún Sì monastery not only gives you a chance to meet the artists, but also to purchase a painting or two, fresh off the easel.

The local populace is a mix of Tibetans and Tǔ. Aside from the monasteries, the valley and surrounding hills are easily explored on foot.

1Sights

Wútún SìMONASTERY

(吾屯寺 per monastery ¥30)

This two-monastery complex is the place to head if you’re interested in Tibetan art. The Upper (Yango) Monastery (吾屯上寺; Wútún Shàngsì) is closest to Tóngrén, while the Lower (Mango) Monastery (吾屯下寺; Wútún Xiàsì) is larger and may offer the chance to see monks painting. The monks will show you around and you can usually ask to see a showroom or workshop. The resident artists are no amateurs – commissions for their thangka (scroll paintings) come in all the way from Lhasa.

Artwork is usually of an exceptionally high quality, but expect to pay hundreds of rénmínbì for the smallest painting, thousands for a poster-sized one and tens or even hundreds of thousands for the largest pieces. There are a handful of showrooms outside the Lower Monastery where you can browse and buy.

The Lower Monastery is easily recognisable by eight large chörten (Tibetan stupa) out front and a new triple Buddha statue. While there, check out the 100-year-old Jampa Lhakhang (Jampa Temple) and the newer chapels dedicated to Chenresig and Tsongkhapa.

The Upper Monastery includes a massive modern chörten as well as the old dukhang (assembly hall) and the new chapel dedicated to Maitreya (Shampa in Amdo dialect). The interior murals painted by local artists are superb.

To get here, take a minibus (¥3 per seat) from the intersection just uphill from Tóngrén bus station ticket office or a taxi (¥15). Hail a minibus on its way back to town to avoid a dusty walk back.

Gomar GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(郭麻日寺; Guōmárì Sì ¥10; h8am-6pm)

Across the Gu-chu river valley from Wútún Sì is the mysterious 400-year-old Gomar Gompa, a charming monastery that resembles a medieval walled village. There are 130 monks in residence living in whitewashed mud-walled courtyards and there are a few temples you can visit. The huge chörten (Tibetan stupa) outside the monastery entrance was built in the 1980s and is the biggest in Amdo. You can climb it, but remember to always walk clockwise. There are photos of the 14th Dalai Lama at the top.

To get here, turn left down a side road as you pass the westernmost of the eight chörten outside Wútún Sì’s Lower Monastery. Follow the road 1km across the river and turn right at the end on a main road. Then head up the track towards the giant chörten. Further up the valley is Gasar Gompa, marked by its own distinctive eight chörtens. Note that women may not be allowed into the Gomar Gompa or Gasar Gompa.

Lóngwù SìMONASTERY

(隆务寺; Rongwo Gonchen Gompa Dehelong Nanlu; 德合隆南路 ¥60; h8am-6pm)

Tóngrén’s main monastery is a huge and rambling maze of renovated chapels and monks’ residences, dating from 1301. It’s well worth a wander, and you’ll need one or two hours to see everything. Your ticket includes entry into six main halls, although you may be able to take a peek inside others, too.

4Sleeping

Hēpíng BīnguǎnHOTEL$

(和平宾馆 %0973 872 4188; Maixiu Lu; 麦秀路 d from ¥120)

Offers large clean rooms overlooking a car park. Good value for money, and the cheerful family owners will often offer discounts.

oRebgong Norbang Travel InnHOTEL$$

(热贡诺尔邦旅游客栈; Règòng Nuò'ěrbāng Lǚyóu Kèzhàn %138 9753 5393, 0973 872 6999; www.nuoerbang.com; Xuelian Donglu; 雪莲东路 d ¥188-300; ste ¥400-500; piW)

The Norbang is a surprisingly good choice in Tóngrén and offers fantastic value with its 'almost' boutique-hotel stylings. Forgo the generic Western-style rooms, and pay a little extra to bunk in a traditional Tibetan-style room with wooden platform beds and sparkling private bathrooms. Breakfast is ¥10 extra.

5Eating

Restaurants come and go quickly here. There are a variety of options along Jīanzhā Lù (尖扎路) including noodles, hotpot and more. Déhélóng Nánlù (德合隆南路) leading to the Lóngwù Sì is also filled with food and other interesting stores.

Lǐngzhūmā Zàng CāntīngTIBETAN$$

(岭珠妈藏餐厅 %138 939 6688; Tiewu Xiao Qu, Regong Gongyu Yi Lou; 铁吾小区热贡公寓一楼 dishes ¥20-120; h10am-10pm)

There's construction going on next door but this brand-new Tibetan restaurant located across the bridge in the eastern portion of town delivers the goods. Walk past a row of prayer wheels, slide into a booth seat and chose from a range of delicious dishes including momos (Tibetan-style dumplings), yak meat and more. Yes, there's Lhasa beer too. A taxi from town costs ¥5.

8Information

China Construction Bank ATMBANK

(建设银行; Jiànshè Yínháng 47 Zhongshan Lu; 中山路47号 )

Foreign-card friendly.

8Getting There & Around

The scenery on the road from Xīníng is awesome, as it follows a tributary of the Yellow River through steep-sided gorges. There are regular daily buses to Xīníng (¥40, four hours). A freeway is being constructed and when complete should cut driving time by an hour. For Xiàhé (¥28, three hours, 8am) and Línxià (¥45, four hours, 8am) try to buy your ticket one day in advance.

The city is easy to get around on foot but taxis cost ¥5 for most trips if you get lazy.

Guìdé 贵德

%0974 / Pop 101,771

As the Yellow River (黄河; Huáng Hé) flows down from the Tibetan Plateau it makes a series of sharp bends, powering its way past ancient Guìdé (贵德), where the water turns turquoise. The river, popular with Chinese tourists, was to provide a tourism lifeline to the town and the government's plans began with the old town (古城; gǔchéng), still largely enclosed within its crumbling 10m-high mud walls. Buildings were knocked down, and faux new-old ones were built – but the promised tourism boom never quite got there.

Guìdé, stuck in limbo between boom town and old town, is the perfect epitome of modern China. Walk past the slick facade in the old town and you'll find crumbling ruins and residents clinging on to life in packed earthen houses. It's the space between the old and new which makes Guìdé so intriguing. Wandering along the remains of the Qing dynasty walls through the back lanes behind the old town towards the Yellow River offers a glimpse at China that will no longer be here in the next couple of years. So get here while you can.

1Sights

oGuìdé National Geological ParkPARK

(贵德国家地质公园; Guìdé Guójiā Dìzhì Gōngyuán 101 Provincial Rd; 省道101 ¥100; g11)

In the stunning multicoloured clay scenery of Dānxiá Canyon (丹霞峡谷; Dānxiá Xiágǔ), this geopark offers walking trails in among red and orange hills that have eroded into other-worldly shapes. Set against the contrasting blue Qīnghǎi skies and teal waters of the Yellow River, this is a lovely spot to spend an afternoon wandering and taking photos, or exploring the peculiar geology of this part of the Tibetan Plateau.

There's a museum with decent signs and maps in English, and well-kept paths allow for easy access to the geological formations, making this an easy walk rather than a back-country hike. Admission includes a Chinese-speaking guide (which you can politely decline) and you can also save ¥20 by declining the tourist electric car (观光车; Guānguāng Chē). Once inside, there are opportunities to go off-piste and clamber up the dirt mounds between canyons but do take care as you're on your own. The park also has the Tōngtīanxía (通天峡) trail that's under renovation at the time of research but once open will take you to the top of one of the peaks for views of the Yellow River.

The park is located about 20km north of Guìdé. A taxi will cost around ¥40 or you can wait at the exit gate of the bus station and get on a bus heading towards Xīníng and tell the driver you're stopping here. Coming from Xīníng, the bus to Guìdé can also drop you off. Local bus 11 stops here.

China Fortune WheelBUDDHIST SITE

(中华福运轮; Zhōnghúa Fúyùnlún Nanbinhe Lu; 南滨河路 ¥80; h8.30am-6pm)

This enormous, gold-plated Tibetan prayer wheel is turned with the aid of rushing water from the Yellow River (along with some elbow grease). The prayer wheel is 27m tall, 10m in diameter and weighs 200 tonnes, earning it a spot in the Guinness World Records as the world’s largest prayer wheel.

Inside the wheel are 200 copies of the Kangyur text, and the base contains a large prayer hall. Near the wheel is a museum of Tibetan artefacts.

The wheel is located in a dedicated park along the Yellow River, which can be reached on foot by following Huanghe Nanlu behind Yùhuáng Pavilion and turning left at the large suspension bridge (itself a great spot for catching sunset over the river). You can rent bikes in the old town or at the start of Nanbinhe Lu (from ¥15 per hour) to cycle along the Yellow River.

4Sleeping

Qīnghǎi Guìdé Hot Spring HotelHOTEL$$

(温泉宾馆; Wēnquán Bīnguǎn %0974 855 3534; 355 Yingbin Lu; 迎宾路355号 d/ste ¥200/550; aiWs)

While the hotel is starting to show its age, it's a decent choice for foreigners, with clean rooms, a heated pool (¥50 per use), spa and pleasant garden grounds. There are no hot springs on-site; instead the hotel claims to have piped water from the springs into its pool and taps. Located 1km west of the bus station.

Peninsular Holiday InnHOTEL$$$

(半岛假日酒店; Bàndǎo Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn %0974 855 8555; 64 Nan Dajie; 南大街64号 d ¥388; W)

Centrally located on Nan Dajie leading up to the old town, the Peninsular is a brand-new hotel with large rooms, comfy beds (they're not your usual hard Chinese mattresses), sparkling Western-style bathrooms and friendly staff. Discounts bring doubles down to ¥228. Rates include breakfast.

8Information

China Construction Bank ATMBANK

(建设银行; Jiànshè Yínháng 14 Yingbin Xilu; 迎宾西路 )

Accepts foreign cards.

8Getting There & Around

There are regular buses to Xīníng (¥26, two hours) and several other destinations around Qīnghǎi. Bus 11 (¥5) goes to the Guìdé National Geological Park.

The old town is 1.5km from the bus station. Turn left out of the station on Yingbin Xilu, then left again along Nan Dajie and past the old town gate to arrive at Bei Dajie. Taxis and three-wheel motorised rickshaws ply the streets of Guìdé. Most short trips cost ¥5 to ¥10.

Yùshù 玉树

%0976 / Pop 380,000 / Elevation 3681m

Until the spring of 2010, Yùshù (玉树; Jyekundo is the name of the town while Yùshù is the prefecture) and its surrounding areas gained popularity as one of Qīnghǎi’s best adventure-travel destinations. All that changed on 14 April 2010, when a 7.1-magnitutude earthquake struck, killing 2698 people (although some believe the true figure across the whole region to be more like 20,000).

After the earthquake most of Jyekundo’s buildings were pulled down and an army of construction workers arrived to rebuild the city. A shiny new town centre built in Tibetan-style architecture (with a modern Chinese twist) was officially reopened in 2014. Jyekundo is slowly bouncing back: it's a great launching pad for the grasslands, mountain passes, monasteries, rivers and diversity of flora and fauna nearby.

Yùshù still has a long way to go, but with improved infrastructure and support from the government, the future looks bright.

1Sights

Seng-ze Gyanak Mani WallBUDDHIST SITE

(新寨嘉那嘛呢石堆; Xīnzhài Jiānà Mání Shíduī Xīnzhài Village)F

Completely rebuilt after suffering extensive damage in the 2010 earthquake, this site is thought to be the world’s largest mani wall (piles of stones with Buddhist mantras carved or painted on them). Founded in 1715, the mani comprises an estimated 2.5 billion mantras, piled one on top of the other over hundreds of square meters. It’s an astonishing sight that (literally) grows as you circumambulate the wall with the pilgrims.

While seemingly touristy, the mani wall is an important religious site for locals, many of whom visit daily. All the mani stones are quarried from the hillside opposite and it's common practice for locals to purchase the locally carved stones to add to the wall. Simple ones cost between ¥1 and ¥10 while massive slabs with prayer chants cost well over ¥10,000. The earthquake unearthed mani stones used by the Chinese for building works: these were repatriated to the pile! A taxi from the town centre costs ¥10 or it's a 2km walk east.

Drogon GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(歇武寺; Xiēwǔ Sì h8am-6pm)

This Sakyapa-school monastery includes the scary gönkhang (protector temple). Set atop a hill, it is adorned with snarling stuffed wolves and tantric masks. Only men may enter the temple.

Jyekundo Dondrubling MonasteryMONASTERY

(结古寺; Jié Gǔsì h8am-6pm)F

First built in 1398, the Jyekundo Dondrubling Monastery suffered heavy damage from the 2010 earthquake (the main prayer hall was completely destroyed and a number of resident monks were killed). The monastery has since been rebuilt and it’s dramatically located in a ridge perched above town.

It takes about 25 minutes to walk the 1.5km from town, or a taxi costs ¥20. When walking up the hill, stick to the road as the pathway is home to some aggressive wild dogs. Rabies shots are not fun.

zFestivals & Events

Horse FestivalCULTURAL

(Yùshù Sàimǎ Jié; 玉树赛马节 hlate Jul)

Yùshù’s spectacular three-day horse festival features traditional horse and yak races, Tibetan wrestling, archery, shooting and dance. The festival is held at different parts of the county each year, with a mega, multi-county affair occurring every four to five years. Check the latest before you make this part of your itinerary.

4Sleeping

Yùshù has been rebuilt and hotels abound. Competition has meant that prices are reasonable, though quality, and wi-fi access, might differ. A hostel is slated to open soon, so do check if you want a budget option.

Pearl Business HotelHOTEL$$

(明珠商务宾馆; Míngzhū Shāngwù Bīnguǎn %0976 881 1177; 33 Qionglong Lu; 琼龙路33号 d ¥280; W)

This hotel has an intimate feel with all the regular amenities and bright, clean bathrooms. There’s 24-hour hot water and rooms come with hairdryers and high-speed broadband connection. Prices are negotiable, so ask to see a room first.

oGesar Palace HotelHOTEL$$$

(Yùshù Gésàěr Wángfǔ Fàndiàn; 玉树格萨尔王府饭店 %0976 882 1999; Minzhu Lu; 民主路 d ¥500-1000; Ws)

Located 100m west of the town square, and towering overs the local buildings, is the town's best hotel. Traditional Tibetan decor greets you in the cavernous lobby. Rooms feature comfortable beds, tasteful dark-wood panels and modern toilets. Service is rough round the edges, but the comfort levels makes it a good choice. Discounts bring rooms down to ¥290. Includes breakfast.

8Information

GesartourTRAVEL AGENCY

(%139 0976 9192; www.gesartour.com)

The best way to see the region is via a private vehicle, and English-speaking Tibetan manager Tsebrtim can organise a bunch of different options based on your interests. You'll get a great wealth of regional and Tibetan knowledge from Tsebrtim and his guides.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Yùshù Bātáng Airport is 25km south of town. There are pricey daily flights to Xīníng (¥1500), with continuing service to Xī’ān (¥1800). There are also flights to Chéngdū (¥1140, four flights a week) and Lhasa (¥2000, four flights a week) with plans for a direct service from Beījīng in the near future.

Bus

Yùshù’s rebuilt long-distance bus terminal (玉树长途客运站; Yùshù Chángtú Kèyùn Zhàn Xihang Lu; 西航路 ), in combination with a new stretch of highway connecting it to Xīníng (seat/sleeper ¥191/211, 8am, 9am, noon, 1pm, 4pm, 5pm, 5.30pm, 6pm), reduces travel time to just 12 hours.

Buses for Chéngdū (¥500) go from the Yùshù Provincial Bus Station (玉树州客运公司; Yùshù Zhōu Kèyùn Gōngsī Xīnzhài Village; 新寨村 ) in Xīnzhài (新寨) Village, 2km east of town.

Long-distance minibuses depart from outside the long-distance bus terminal, bound for Nangchen (¥50, three to four hours) but leaving only when full. Vehicles also depart when full for Gānzī (¥170, five to seven hours) in Sìchuān. Ask around for other destinations. Minibuses for other parts of Qīnghǎi, including Nangchen, also leave from another minivan square located on Shuangyong Jie (双拥街), 550m north of the long-distance bus terminal.

8Getting Around

A taxi to the airport is ¥50. Airport buses meet flights and cost ¥20 into town. Local bus routes 2, 3 and 4 (¥1) connect the main areas of town via three stations: Zhā Xīkē (扎西科), Fó Xuéyuàn (佛学院) and Xī Háng (西杭). You need to hail the bus for it to stop, and they run infrequently. Taxis are prevalent and fares start at ¥10, rising steeply if you head anywhere out of town.

Princess Wencheng Temple

Princess Wencheng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(文成公主庙; Wénchéng Gōngzhǔ Miào h8am-6pm)F

This small but busy temple, 15km south of Yùshù, is dedicated to the Tang dynasty Chinese Princess Wencheng, who was instrumental in converting her husband and Tibetan king, Songtsen Gampo, to Buddhism in the 7th century. The temple marks the spot where the princess (and possibly the king) paused for a month en route from Xī’ān to Lhasa.

Said to be the oldest Buddhist temple in Qīnghǎi, the inner chapel has a rock carving (supposedly self-arising) of Vairocana (Nampa Namse in Tibetan), the Buddha of primordial wisdom, which allegedly dates from the 8th century. To the left is a statue of King Songtsen Gampo.

The temple, which suffered minor damage from the 2010 Yùshù earthquake, is small, and few linger in it for long. Look around the surrounding rock faces for old rock and scripture carvings. Do allow time to explore the nearby hills. Here a sprawling spider’s web of blue, red, yellow, white and pink prayer flags runs up the slopes, down the slopes and over the ravine, covering every inch of land.

A steep trail (a popular kora route for pilgrims) ascends from the end of the row of eight chörtens (Tibetan stupas)to the left of the temple. At the end of the trail head up the grassy side valley for some great hiking and stunning open views.

Private minibuses (¥200 return) depart from outside the long-distance bus terminal in Yùshù, or a taxi costs about ¥100 return.

Nangchen 囊谦

%0976 / Pop 3630m

The scenic county of Nangchen (囊谦; Nángqiān), a former Tibetan kingdom, is the end of the line for most travellers. The drive from Yùshù to the dusty little county capital of Sharda (香达镇; Xiāngdá Zhèn; 3630m), colloquially referred to as Nangchen, takes you past some incredibly diverse landscapes filled with mountains, valleys, monasteries, rushing rivers and a plethora of animals and flora. You'll be tempted to stop the driver to take photos along every bend in the road.

Further south is the Qīnghǎi–Tibet border, with roads to Riwoche and Chamdo, but foreigners aren't allowed access. As you approach Nangchen, you'll pass through the 'new' town, 90% of whose buildings are unoccupied. Everything happens in the old town where the bus drops you.

1Sights

Gading GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(嘎丁寺; Gādīng Sì h8am-6pm)

Nestled on a piece of land within a horseshoe bend in the Dzichu River, Gading makes for one of the most stunning photos you could take in the region. The monastery itself is nothing special, but hike up the hill opposite for views across both sides of the valley. When you're done, pitch a tent and have a picnic along the river.

Gading Gompa is 15km from Nangchen. A car will cost ¥350 return.

Dana GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(达那寺; Dánǎ Sì h8am-6pm)

The stunning Dana Monastery is remote and the road out from Nangchen takes you across a valley towards 4000m elevation. Once there, you'll find the province's largest nunnery. Getting out here is expensive and drivers will ask ¥1200 for the 320km return journey. It can be included on a tour itinerary.

Gar GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(尕尔寺; Gǎ’ěr Sì h8am-6pm)

Nestled on the ridge of a forested mountain about 70km south of Nangchen is this picturesque monastery. Wildlife is prevalent in the area, including blue sheep and monkeys. It’s a popular spot for birdwatchers. A taxi from Nangchen costs about ¥550 return.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotels are pricey for the poor standards on offer, and not all accept foreigners.

Dōngfāng BīnguǎnHOTEL$

(东方宾馆; Dōngfāng Bīnguǎn %152 9702 5483; Xiangda Nanjie; 香达南街 d ¥150; W)

With clean bathrooms and hot showers, this Salar-run hotel has bright rooms with fresh linens and heating in the winter. Located in an unfinished-looking concrete block as you head 100m south down Xiangda Nanjie.

Travellers report that sometimes this hotel has issues registering foreigners. Your best bet is to ask when you arrive.

Yǎzhuō Shāngwù BīnguǎnHOTEL$$

(雅卓商务宾馆 %0976 887 5555; Xiangda Donglu; 香达东路 d ¥288; W)

Clean, decent option with Western toilets, wi-fi and breakfast. Off-season rates drop to ¥180. Located on the main road 100m east before the bus station. Rates include breakfast.

Zhēngqì Niúròu Miàn GuǎnNOODLES$

(蒸汽牛肉面馆 Xiangda Dongjie; 香达东街 dishes ¥12-20; h9am-9pm)

A popular and cheap place for Muslim-style noodles. Try the zhá jiàng miàn (炸酱面), a dish consisting of hearty meat noodles topped with minced beef. Located roughly 200m west of the main bus station. There's another branch on Xiangda Nanjie near Dōngfāng Bīnguǎn.

8Information

Most hotels now have wi-fi.

Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK

(农业银行; Nóngyè Yínháng Xiangda Dongjie; 香达东街 )

ATM accepts foreign cards.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

From Nangchen bus station on the main road, one daily bus goes to Xīníng (¥264, 15 to 18 hours) departing at 10am. Book at least one day in advance.

To reach Yùshù (¥50, three hours), most locals travel by shared minibuses, which assemble on the main road outside Nangchen's bus station.

8Getting Around

Nangchen itself is a dusty town where you're likely to see stray dogs trotting beside cows on the main street. You'll need to hire a taxi to see many of the sights around town, or contact Gesartour in Yùshù for a trip out here via the back roads. The route takes twice as long to travel but offers plenty of picturesque stops, including a hike up to the hills behind Gādīng Sì (嘎丁寺) where you can take Instagram-worthy snaps of the monastery sitting on a piece of land in a horseshoe bend along the Dzichu River.

HIKING ON MT AMNYE MACHEN

Mt Amnye MachenMOUNTAIN

(阿尼玛卿; Ānímǎqīng )

The 6282m peak of Machen Kangri, or Mt Amnye Machen, is Amdo’s most sacred mountain – it’s eastern Tibet’s equivalent to Mt Kailash in western Tibet. Tibetan pilgrims travel for weeks to circumambulate the peak, believing it to be home to the protector deity Machen Pomra. The circuit’s sacred geography and wild mountain scenery make it a fantastic, adventurous trekking destination.

Unfortunately, much of the route is suffering the effects of a major road project that will see elevated bridges and asphalt highways passing through the Amnye Machen region. This means that you may spend much of the route covered in dust billowing in the wake of heavy vehicles. The construction is slated to be completed in 2017/18 (depending on which section you're in). It's best to check before you go.

The full circuit takes around 11 days (including transport to/from Xīníng), though tourists often limit themselves to a half circuit. Several monasteries lie alongside the route. With almost all of the route above 4000m, and the highest pass hitting 4600m, it’s essential to acclimatise before setting off, preferably by spending a night or two at the nearby Mǎduō (玛多; 4290m). The best months to trek are May to October, though be prepared for snow early and late in the season.

Since local public transport is almost nonexistent, most trekkers go on an organised tour. Expect to pay around US$180 per person per day, all-inclusive in a group, and double or triple that if you are going solo. During the construction period, the tour agencies listed in the Xīnīng section take trekkers on an alternate (non-pilgrimage) route through the less disturbed parts of Mt Amnye Machen.

If you do want to try venturing out on your own, take the bus to Huāshíxiá (花石峡) or Mǎduō and then hitch or hire a shared minivan (¥300 to ¥400 per person) to Xiàdàwǔ (下大吾). Mǎduō is slightly further away but it has better amenities and you can pack in an excursion to the Source of the Yellow River.

In Xiàdàwǔ the starting point for the kora (holy hike) path is at Guru Gompa (格日寺; Gērì Sì), and from here follow the road east. After three days the road peters out near Xuěshān (雪山), from where you can hitch a ride to Mǎqìn. If you intend to continue past Xuěshān you’ll need to ask a local to show you the kora path. In Xiàdàwǔ, a guide costs ¥150 to ¥200 per day, and it’s about the same price for a packhorse or yak. You'll need to be fully sufficient and bring a tent, sleeping bag etc.

Golmud 格尔木

%0979 / Pop 200,000 / Elevation 2800m

For three decades Golmud (格尔木; Gé'ěrmù) faithfully served overlanders as the last jumping-off point before Lhasa. Bedraggled backpackers hung around the city’s truck depot trying to negotiate a lift to the ‘Roof of the World’. But since the completion of the Qīnghǎi–Tibet Railway, this lonesome backwater has become even less important, as most Tibet-bound travellers board the train elsewhere and blow right through town. Today it’s mostly of use to travellers trying to get between Lhasa and Dūnhuáng (in Gānsù) or Huātǔgōu (en route to Xīnjiāng).

4Sleeping & Eating

There are plenty of hotels in Golmud – unfortunately only a few accept foreigners.

Dōngfāng HotelHOTEL$

(东方宾馆; Dōngfāng Bīnguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0979 841 0011; 7 Bayi Zhonglu; 八一中路7号 d ¥98-118; W)

This centrally located hotel has decent rooms rough round the edges. Some of the larger rooms come with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking noisy Hédōng Market (河东市场; Hédōng Shìchǎng) and the main street. It's a ¥6 taxi ride from the train station.

oQíjì Shǒugōng Miànpiān FāngCHINESE ISLAMIC$

(祁记手工面片坊 GOOGLE MAP ; Bayi Zhonglu; noodles ¥13-15, dishes ¥5-50; h9am-10.30pm)

An unexpected gem, this noodle joint has both style that wouldn't look out of place in Běijīng and substance by way of delicious handmade miànpiān (面片; noodle slices). With its almost-Scandi decor and friendly service, it's not hard to return here for noodles, suānnǎi (酸奶; yoghurt), cold dishes and other chunkier meat options displayed in a glass case.

8Information

Agricultural Bank of ChinaATM

(农业银行; Nóngyè Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Bayi Zhonglu)

Has a 24-hour ATM that accepts foreign cards.

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Kunlun Lu & Chaidamu Lu; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)

Changes cash. Foreign-friendly ATM.

CAACTRAVEL AGENCY

(机场售票处; Jīchǎng Shòupiàochù GOOGLE MAP ; %24hr booking line 0979 842 3333; h8.30am-6pm)

Can help book onward flights.

China PostPOST

(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 38 Yingbing Lu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)

Located 100m north of the main train station.

China Travel ServiceTRAVEL AGENCY

(CTS; 中国旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè GOOGLE MAP ; %0979 725 8858; 3rd fl, 46 Kunlun Zhonglu Wumao Dasha; 昆仑中路46号物贸大厦3层 h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri)

The only place in town that can arrange Tibet permits, though it takes seven to 10 days. Best used as a last resort. Limited English.

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Chaidamu Dong Lu; h8am-noon & 2.30-5pm Mon-Fri)

Can extend visas.

8Getting There & Away

Golmud's airport is 15km west of town. Daily flights go to Xīníng (¥1500), Xī‘ān (¥1500) and Běijīng (¥3500).

There are buses to a number of destinations in Qīnghǎi and neighbouring provinces from Golmud’s main bus station (格尔木长途车站; Gé’ěrmù Chángtú Chēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0979 845 3688; 23 Jiangyuan Nanlu; 江源南路23号 ) including Dūnhuáng (¥115, 10 hours, 9am and 11am), Huātǔgōu (¥106, six hours, 10am and 11am) and Xīníng (¥140, 11 to 14 hours, 4pm, 5pm, 6pm). There is also a bus to Charklik (Ruòqiāng; ¥228, 12 hours, 11am) in Xīnjīang.

Trains to Lhasa (hard sleeper ¥375, 14 hours) depart from Golmud Railway Station (格尔木火车站; Gé'ěrmù Huǒchē Zhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0979 722 2222; Yingbin Lu; 迎宾路 ) late in the night or past midnight; you’ll need your Tibet permit to be in order to board. Trains also go to Xīníng (hard sleeper ¥208, eight to 10 hours).

8Getting Around

A taxi to/from Golmud Airport costs ¥50.

Local taxis start at ¥6 for 3km and ¥1.30 per kilometer thereafter.

Mǎduō 玛多

%0975 / Pop 10,750 / Elevation 4290m

Mǎduō (玛多) is a burgeoning town now popular as a launch pad for visits to Zhālíng and Èlíng Lakes, purportedly the source of the Yellow River. The town isn't much more than two streets but there are a couple of good hotels and eating options. Remember this area is over 4000m high so altitude sickness is a real risk. Consider coming from Yùshù (3680m) rather than Xīníng (2275m) so you don’t have to ascend too much in one go. Temperatures in Mǎduō can drop to near zero even in summer so come prepared.

Zhālíng & Èlíng LakesLAKE

(扎陵湖和鄂陵湖; Zhālíng Hú Hé Èlíng Hú Níutóubēi (牛头碑) ¥80)

These lakes are the widely accepted source of the Yellow River, and most Chinese tourists drive or hire a vehicle to take them to níutóubēi (牛头碑), an engraved stone tablet that marks the 'source'. There’s nowhere to stay or eat, so most people visit as a day trip from Mǎduō. SUVs or minivans will take you to the lake and back for ¥800 to ¥1000 per vehicle (four to five hours return).

It's possible to camp here in the summer, but you’ll need to be completely self-sufficient. You'll find drivers through your hotel or hanging around the main T-intersection in town. If you want to get to the very-hard-to-find true source of the Yellow River you’ll need a two-day round trip from Mǎduō (sleeping in the 4WD or camping) that includes some hiking and will cost around ¥3000 per vehicle, assuming you can find a driver willing to take you. You can also get here via an itinerary organised by one of the tour agencies in Xīníng or Yùshù.

There are several hotels in Mǎduō, but only the pricier ones accept foreigners.

Língguó Shāngwù BīnguǎnHOTEL$$$

(岭国商务宾馆 %0975 834 8888; opposite the Wenhua Guangchang; 文化广场对面 d ¥388; W)

Clean, centrally located hotel with Western toilets, 24-hour hot water and heating. Discounts bring prices down to ¥210.

When heading to Mǎduō, you'll likely be dropped off at the intersection leading into town. It's a 3km walk in or you can hitch or try to flag a taxi (¥10). There's a daily bus to Xīníng at 7.30am. You can also hit the main intersection to flag down passing buses to Xīníng or Yùshù.