North Nicosia (Lefkoşa)
North Nicosia (Lefkoşa)
Pop 61,400
Why Go?
Strolling the back streets of the Old City in North Nicosia (Lefkoşa in Turkish) feels like dropping into an earlier era. Its wiggling alleys are home to half-derelict town houses, washing lines strung between window shutters with peeling paint, and the occasional strutting rooster.
The scent of yesteryear is further evoked towards the centre, which is watched over by the Gothic pile of the Selimiye Mosque and the Ottoman bulk of the Büyük Han. The main thoroughfare to the sights, Arasta Sokak, is a brushed-up modern-day bazaar catering to day-trippers, with its glut of stalls selling tacky trinkets. Skate your way through the crowds, though, and you'll find pockets of contemporary cafe-cool breaking out, slowly awakening the Old City from its slumber.
Sit down with a latte as the call to prayer echoes and soak up the merging of old and new that permeates this side of the walled city.
When to Go
ANorth Nicosia can be uncomfortably hot and dusty in July and August, which is also when many locals escape to the coast.
ATake note of when Ramadan (Ramazan in Turkish) falls. Although the Muslim month of fasting is not strictly observed here, more-religious people and some older people will fast during daylight hours.
AEid el-Fitr (Şeker Bayram; the end of Ramadan holiday) can be up to a four-day public holiday depending on which day of the week it begins; ATMs generally run out of cash by the end of it.
ADecember and January see the most rainfall and night-time temperatures regularly plummet to 7°C. You will need to pack warm clothing.
Best Historic Sights
North Nicosia (Lefkoşa) Highlights
1 Selimiye Mosque Craning your neck to take in the soaring Gothic arches within this stunning cathedral-turned-mosque.
2 Arabahmet Quarter Falling into a time-warp amid this quiet neighbourhood's lanes, fringed by preserved Ottoman-era town-house architecture.
3 Büyük Han Reliving the long-gone days of travelling merchants within this grand old caravanserai.
4 Armenian Church & Nunnery Viewing the stately and austere church interior, one of the city's finest restoration jobs of recent years.
5 Cafe culture Joining the locals and watching the world go by from a pavement seat at one of a clutch of funky new cafes.
History
Until 1963 North Nicosia (Lefkoşa), not surprisingly, shared much of the same history as its dismembered southern sector, Nicosia (Lefkosia). In this year, however, the capital was effectively divided into Greek and Turkish sectors, when violence against Turkish Cypriots by insurgents from the Ethniki Organosi tou Kypriakou Agona (EOKA; National Organisation for the Cypriot Struggle) forced them to retreat into safe enclaves or ghettos. The UN Buffer Zone, or Green Line as it has become known, was established when a British military commander divided up the city on a map with a green pen. The name has remained ever since.
The Turkish military invasion of 1974, which most Turkish Cypriots saw as a rescue operation, formalised the division between the two halves of the city. A wary truce was brokered by the blue-bereted members of the UN peacekeeping forces, who had been guarding the Green Line since sectarian troubles broke out in 1963.
It is now easy for Turkish Cypriots and most visiting tourists to cross into the South but, despite this, the city remains both physically and symbolically divided, and many of the older generation (both Greek and Turkish Cypriots) continue to bear grudges and refuse to cross the divide.
North Nicosia (Lefkoşa)
1Sights
5Eating
3Entertainment
1Sights
North Nicosia's main sights are all within the Venetian walled Old City and easily explored on foot. There is good signposting of sights through most of the Old City to help aid navigation within the alleyways.
oSelimiye MosqueMOSQUE
(St Sophia Cathedral;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Kuyumcular Sokak; 
hclosed to non-Muslims during prayers)
F
North Nicosia’s most prominent landmark (also clearly visible from the southern half of the city), the Selimiye Mosque is a beautiful mongrel of a building. A cross between a French Gothic church and a mosque, its fascinating history stretches back to the 13th century. Although it's a working place of worship, non-Muslims may visit, except during prayer time. For the most atmosphere, time your visit either just before or after one of the five daily prayer sessions.
Work started on the church in 1209 and progressed slowly. Louis IX of France, on his way to the Crusades, stopped by in 1248 and gave the building process a much-needed shot in the arm by offering the services of his retinue of artisans and builders. The church took another 78 years to complete, however, and was finally consecrated in 1326 as the Church of Agia Sofia.
Until 1570 the church suffered depredation at the hands of the Genoese and the Mamelukes, and severe shakings from two earthquakes in 1491 and 1547. When the Ottomans arrived in 1571, they stripped the building of its Christian contents and added two minarets, between which the Turkish Cypriot and Turkish flags now flutter. The Gothic structure of the interior is still apparent despite Islamic overlays, such as the whitewashed walls and columns, and the reorientation of the layout to align it with Mecca. Note the ornate west front with its three decorated doorways, each in a different style. Also look out for four marble columns relocated from Ancient Salamis and now placed in the apse off the main aisles.
BedestanCHURCH
(St Nicholas Church;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Kuyumcular Sokak; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Renovated as part of the Nicosia Master Plan, the imposing Bedestan dates from the 6th century, when it was built as a small Byzantine chapel. It was grandly embellished in the 14th century and reborn as St Nicholas Church.
Today it's used primarily as the venue for whirling dervish performances. Unfortunately, this means the beauty of the building's swooping Gothic arches is somewhat curtailed by rows of garish orange plastic chairs and other additions. The Bedstan is only open to ticket-holders during performances.
oBüyük HanHISTORIC BUILDING
(Great Inn;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Asmaaltı Sokak; h8am-7pm)F
The Büyük Han is Cyprus' best-preserved example of Ottoman caravanserai architecture. Built in 1572 by the first Ottoman governor of Cyprus, Lala Mustafa Pasha, it was renovated in the early 1990s, and has once again become the hub of North Nicosia's Old City bustle. The courtyard is home to a couple of cafes, including the ever-popular Sedirhan, and traditional craft workshops are housed in the small cells leading off the 1st-floor balcony that originally served as the inn’s sleeping areas.
During the Ottoman period, hans (inns) like this one were used as hotels for travellers and traders. The ground-floor rooms rimming the courtyard functioned as stables for horses, storage areas and shops where traders could carry out their business.
The central courtyard has a mescit (Islamic prayer room) in the centre, which is balanced on six pillars over a şadırvan (ablutions fountain). This design is rare; it's found only in this han and two others in Turkey.
Kumarcılar HanHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Asmaaltı Sokak; h8am-7pm)
This caravanserai is a smaller version of the neighbouring Büyük Han and was built in the early 18th century. Today its courtyard hosts cafes, and the surrounding cells where merchant goods were once stored are home to local craft shops.
BandabulyaMARKET
(Municipal Market;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Kuyumcular Sokak; h6am-3pm Mon-Sat)
Dating back to the early 20th century, this covered market has a mix of produce stalls piled high with fruit and vegetables for local shoppers, craft shops aimed squarely at visitors, and a couple of cafes.
oHaydarpaşa MosqueMOSQUE
(Church of St Catherine;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Haydarpaşa Sokak; h9am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)F
The second-most important Gothic structure in North Nicosia after the Selimiye Mosque, this building began life as the 14th-century Church of St Catherine. Annoyingly, despite the mosque being open officially, in practice it rarely is. Even if it's shut when you stroll by, take the time to admire its chunky facade, and also the ornate carving at the top of the entrance gates, which sprout dragon and rose motifs. The southern and western entrances have the Lusignan coat of arms.
Eaved HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Kütüphane Sokak; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 8am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu)F
Unique for its wide eaves, this house is a combination of Lusignan and Ottoman architecture and now functions as an art and culture centre hosting occasional exhibitions. The main reason to visit is for the view of the Selimiye Mosque from the upper balcony.
Lapidary MuseumMUSEUM
(Taş Eserler Müzesi;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Züfdüzade Sokak; adult/student 7/5TL; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 8am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu)
Housed in a lovely 15th-century building, exhibits of the medieval-era stonework here include a varied collection of column capitals, stelae, and a Gothic window rescued from a Lusignan palace that once stood near Atatürk Meydanı.
oArmenian Church & NunneryCHURCH
(Sourp Asdvadzadzin;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Şehit Mehmet Hüseyin Sokak; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 8am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu)
This church and nunnery is first thought to have been established in the 13th century as the Abbey of Our Lady of Tyre, and was handed over to the island's Armenian community in the 15th century, when it became a principle place of worship. With the displacement of the city's Armenian community after the Green Line divided the city in 1963, the building fell into disrepair, but an eight-year project has restored the golden-stoned church to its former glory.
Dervish Pasha MansionMUSEUM
(Derviş Paşa Konağı;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Beliğ Paşa Sokak; adult/student 7/5TL; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 8am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu)
This small ethnographic museum is housed in a 19th-century mansion. Built in 1807, it belonged to wealthy a Turkish Cypriot, Derviş Paşa, who published Cyprus’ first Turkish-language newspaper. The house became an ethnographic museum in 1988. Household goods, including an old loom, glassware and ceramics, are displayed in former servants’ quarters on the ground floor, while upstairs is a rich display of embroidered Turkish costumes.
The building was being restored on our last visit and was closed to visitors; we were assured that it would be opening again soon.
oMevlevi Tekke MuseumMUSEUM
(Mevlevi Müzesi;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Girne Caddesi; adult/student 7/5TL; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 8am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu)
This 17th-century former tekke (dervish house) was once Cyprus' central meeting place for the island's followers of the Mevlevi Order. Made famous by the whirling dervishes, the Mevlevis are a Sufi (the mystical branch of Islam) sect that began in Konya (Turkey) during the 13th century under the spiritual leadership of mystic, poet and theologian Mevlana Rumi. Inside, the rooms contain exhibits on dervish life as well as the tombs of the island's 16 sheiks of the Mevlevi Order.
Today, only the semahane (room where the dervishes performed their whirling prayer ritual), the kitchen and the tomb room survive of what was once a much larger structure. The adjoining courtyard is home to a collection of Muslim tombstones.
Samanbahçe QuarterAREA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Girne Caddesi)
This neighbourhood of whitewashed terraced cottages, tucked off Girne Caddesi, was Cyprus' first social housing project. Built in the early 20th century, the 70 houses were all constructed using local materials and with careful consideration given to the island's climatic conditions, resulting in traditional mudbrick walls and hasır (thatched reed) ceilings. Today, with the narrow alleyways festooned with pots of geraniums, gerberas and creeping vines, it's a rather charming place for a peaceful stroll.
Ethnographic Museum of CyprusMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%0392 227 1785; Şehit Ecvet Yusuf Caddesi 56; adult/student €5/3; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
This eclectic museum in the New City is the work of Ergün Pektaş, who scoured Northern Cyprus to salvage and preserve local craftwork, day-to-day objects, woodwork and furniture. The result is a cornucopia of Cypriot popular arts and design dating back more than 150 years. The collection spreads over three vast galleried floors, and ranges from agricultural implements and traditional costumes to beautiful wood beams with carved capitals that were once typical of village house architecture on the Karpas Peninsula.
Museum of BarbarismMUSEUM
(Barbarlık Müzesi;
GOOGLE MAP
; Irhan Sokak 2; h8am-3.30pm Fri-Wed, 8am-1pm & 2-5pm Thu)F
Set in the house where the family of Dr Nihat İlhan was murdered during 1963's intercommunal attacks, this museum is a gruesome reminder of the brutal and violent years following the island's independence. As well as harrowing exhibits about the family's murder, there are similarly confronting photo displays of Turkish Cypriots murdered in the villages of Agios Sozomenos and Agios Vasilios.
The Museum of Barbarism is quite a hike from the Old City, around 3km straight up Mehmet Akif Caddesi in the New City.
CROSSING THE LINE
The easiest entry from Nicosia (Lefkosia) is the pedestrian-only Ledra St crossing (called Lokmacı ( GOOGLE MAP ) in the North). As this is in the heart of the Old City, after showing your passport it's only a short hop to all the sights and less than 10 minutes' walk to Kyrenia Gate.
The second pedestrian crossing, Ledra Palace Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ), runs alongside the western moat of the Old City. After crossing here, take the first right onto Sarayönü Caddesi and enter the Old City via the Mula (Zahra) Bastion.
There are no time restrictions when crossing the Green Line so overnight stays are not a problem.
2Activities
Büyük HamamHAMMAM
(Grand Turkish Bath;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Irfan Bey Sokak 9; treatments 60-100TL; hmen only 9am-3pm Wed & Sat, 9am-4pm Sun, women only 9am-3pm Tue, mixed & touristic services 3.30-9pm Tue, Wed, Thu & Fri, 4.30-9pm Sat & Sun)
Originally part of the 14th-century Church of St George of the Latins, the Büyük Hamam is entered via a low, ornate door, sunk 2m below street level, and today provides a typical Turkish bathhouse soak-and-scrub experience. For the full deal, including a scrub-down with traditional black soap and a pounding massage, come in the hours reserved for 'touristic services'.
Inside is a nail that marks the height reached by the waters of the Pedieos River (Kanlı Dere), which drowned about 3000 Lefkosians in 1330.
2Walking Tour
Stepping Back in Time
Start Ledra St/Lokmacı Crossing
End Mula Bastion
Length 4km; two hours
Begin at the 1Ledra St/Lokmacı crossing and work your way up Arasta Sokak to the splendid 2Selimiye Mosque. Leave your shoes at the door and don a headscarf (if female) to view the interior, where soaring Gothic splendour meets the meditative minimalism of Islam.
Head behind the Selimiye Mosque and up to the 3Haydarpaşa Mosque and its ornate facade. Turning east from here brings you onto the alleyways that abut the UN Buffer Zone. 4Karababa Sokak, and the narrow lanes leading off it, are rimmed with town houses teetering into decay and shabby cottages with washing hung up right beside the Buffer Zone's makeshift walls.
Loop back southwest via Kirlizade Sokak and Selimiye Sokak to admire the bulky Ottoman finery of the 5Kumarcılar Han and 6Büyuk Han. Afterwards, head to 7Atatürk Meydanı, which is centred around a column that once stood in Ancient Salamis.
From here, stroll south to reach the 8Arabahmet Quarter. The main street, Salahi Şevket Sokak, ends abruptly with a corrugated-iron and barbed-wire fence marking the Buffer Zone. The 9Armenian Church here has been recently restored and is well worth a visit, and the neighbourhood's lanes are lined with well-preserved Ottoman-era houses, once home to the city's Armenian community.
Zigzag through the lanes, then surface on Zahra Sokak and enter scruffy Yiğitler Park sitting atop the aRoccas Bastion. Walking next to the fence on top of the bastion allows you to peer down onto the avenue of Markou Drakou in Nicosia (Lefkosia) below. Up until crossing restrictions were eased dramatically in 2004, this was the only point along the entire Green Line where Turkish and Greek Cypriots could see each other close up.
Afterwards, wander up bZahra Sokak to the Mula Bastion, fringed by the vast moat on its west side and home to some of Arabahmet's most stunning town-house architecture. At the cMula Bastion you can either turn east to head back into the Old City centre, or head out of the Old City to the Ledra Palace Hotel Crossing to enter Nicosia (Lefkosia).
5Eating
Due to the hordes of day-trip group tours that cross over from the South, the Old City buzzes at lunchtime. Post sunset, eating options are fewer on the ground.
Old City
Nearly all restaurants in North Nicosia's Old City accept euros as well as Turkish lira.
oSham FoodMIDDLE EASTERN€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Arasta Sokak; shawarma 16-18TL; h11am-10pm)
There are plenty of shawarma (meat sliced from a rotating spit) sandwich joints on the island, but this may just be the best one. Have the mixed (chicken and lamb) with all the fillings and we think you'll agree.
oAsmaaltı Bereket FırınıTURKISH€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Asmaaltı Sokak; lahmacun/pide 5/18TL; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat)
This rough-and-ready kiosk, run by İlker, is the place to go for pide and lahmacun (thin-based pizza topped with minced lamb and parsley) served up from the stone oven. Pull up a plastic seat streetside or munch on the go.
oSarabaCYPRIOT€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 228 9345; Selimiye Meydanı 35; mains 22TL, meze dishes 4-10TL; h11am-3pm; 
v)
The kind of hearty village food that's kept farmers tilling fields for centuries is served at this modest restaurant half-hidden at the side of the Selimiye Mosque. Mains such as molohiya (a viscid meat and jute-leaves stew) and karnıyarık (stuffed aubergines) keep the courtyard tables buzzing with lunching locals. Don't forget to order the hummus, which has a distinct lemony kick.
oRüstem KitabeviCYPRIOT€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Girne Caddesi 22; mains 25TL; h11am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Traditional Cypriot home cooking is served in the upstairs salon of North Nicosia's most famous bookshop, with a daily changing menu of simple classic dishes such as stuffed vine leaves and köfte (grilled meatballs).
Old Mosaic Bar & RestaurantTURKISH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 227 9551; Selimiye Meydanı 4-5; mains 18-26TL; h10am-late; v)
Old-school tunes pump out the front, but if you head through the ramshackle house you can dine in a courtyard amid tumbling bougainvillea to a soundtrack of chirping canaries. The best choices are the meze dishes, so order hummus, patlıcan salata (eggplant in garlic), pastırma (spicy sausage) and barbunya (barlotti beans in olive oil) for a tasty lunch.
SedirhanTURKISH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Büyük Han; mains 17-25TL; h8am-7pm; 
Wv)
Enjoying prime position within the Büyük Han, Sedirhan is the lunchtime hub for day-tripping tour groups. Don't let that put you off, though. Despite the easy foot traffic, the kitchen turns out solid, typical Turkish and Cypriot dishes. The sheftalia (Cypriot sausage, şeftalı kebap in Turkish) is moist and well spiced and there are good, lighter meal options such as mantı (Turkish ravioli).
BoghjalianTURKISH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 228 0700; Salahi Şevket Sokak; meze dishes 10TL; hnoon-3.30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat)
Reservations are recommended to dine on the meze in this former mansion of a wealthy Armenian, where meals are served in a leafy courtyard or in a choice of two elegant dining rooms. During our last visit, the restaurant was closed for restoration, but we're assured it should be back open soon.
oEl SaborINTERNATIONAL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 228 8322; Selimiye Meydanı 29; mains 16-55TL; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat; 
aWv)
Tired of kebabs? El Sabor mixes things up with generous dishes of pasta, Asian noodles and plenty of steaks. There's a kid's menu, a decent wine selection, and you can't beat eating outside with a view of the bulky Selimiye Mosque. The resident cat population adds entertainment and unbearable cuteness to the dining experience.
BibliothequeINTERNATIONAL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Mihat Paşa Sokak 7; mains 25-50TL; h11am-11pm; aWv)
Bibliotheque's huge, beautifully renovated interior (with a great bar area) and alleyway seating, shaded by colourful upturned umbrellas, make it a highly atmospheric lunch or dinner stop. The extensive menu leapfrogs from fajitas to noodles to kebabs; the food doesn't always hit the mark but the great location keeps this place popular.
DON'T MISS
ARABAHMET QUARTER
The Arabahmet Quarter rubbing up against the Green Line is home to well-preserved examples of Ottoman-era town-house architecture. The narrow alleyways are rimmed by tall whitewashed houses – some recently restored, others sinking into genteel dilapidation – with painted shutters and upper-storey overhanging cumbas (bay windows). Note the skinny balconies (not a common feature in Ottoman architecture) and carved crosses across front-door lintels on some houses; Arabahmet was the Armenian quarter of Nicosia (Lefkosia) until 1963 when the Green Line was drawn through the city.
The entire area is imbued with a heady sense of yesteryear and is one of North Nicosia's most interesting neighbourhoods to stroll through.
New City
The main restaurant street in the new part of town is Mehmet Akif Caddesi. It's home to a line of restaurants and cafe-bars that are nearly always packed with young locals munching on international-style dishes.
Califorian GoldINTERNATIONAL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 444 7070; Mehmet Akif Caddesi 74; mains 17-36TL; h8am-11.30pm; 
pW)
The sprawling terrace here is nearly always packed with a youthful, well-heeled crowd tucking into dishes from fajitas to Asian noodles to Turkish kebab plates. It's a big ask for one kitchen to be able to prepare so many different cuisines, and it shows. Nevertheless, the sandwiches make a nice change from kebabs for lunch.
Note that, amusingly, the name is intentionally spelt this way to avoid any potential copyright infringements from the US sunshine state.
THE WHIRLING DERVISHES OF THE MEVLEVI ORDER
The founder of the Mevlevi Order was the poet Jelaluddin Mevlana, known in the West as Rumi, and born in the 13th century. Mevlana’s most famous work is Mathnawi, a long poem that details his teachings and understanding of the world, and emphasises the belief that an individual’s soul is separated from the divine during one’s earthly life; only God’s love has the power to draw it back to its source. Rumi’s teachings were also based on the belief that everything was created by God, so every creature was to be loved and respected. The order paid special attention to patience, modesty, unlimited tolerance, charity and positive reasoning.
But most importantly, and shockingly to orthodox Muslims at that time, Rumi claimed that music was the way to transcend the mundane worries of life, and that one could connect with the divine through dancing or, indeed, whirling.
The slow, whirling, trancelike dance of the dervishes is called sema, and it is accompanied by the sound of the ney (reed flute), an instrument central to Rumi’s idea of yearning for the divine. The sound of the ney, whose tonal range is equal to that of a human voice, is supposed to symbolise the soul’s cry for God. The oud (Levantine lute) and kudum (paired drums) are the other instruments that accompany sema. During their dance, the dervishes hold one palm upwards and the other downwards to symbolise humanity’s position as a bridge between heaven and earth. The sema was originally performed exclusively as a spiritual exercise, and it was considered blasphemy to perform for money or show.
The Mevlevi Order flourished for 700 years in Turkish life and spread from Konya in Turkey to the Balkans and southeastern Europe, until they were banned in Turkey by Atatürk in 1925. Today the dervishes perform in theatres all over the world, and it’s possible to see their beautiful dance in most Western countries.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe culture is currently stoking a revival of the Old City, with a handful of cafe-bars at the forefront of creating a new nightlife scene within North Nicosia's Venetian walls. In saying that, North Nicosia can in no way compete with the buzzing cafe and bar scene of Nicosia. If you're looking for more vigour and choice, head over the Green Line into the South.
Cafe No:3CAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Girne Caddesi 3; h8am-midnight)
A serious statement of the revival of North Nicosia's Old City, Cafe No:3 is a contemporary, light-filled space of sleek Scandi styling that attracts everyone from groups of hip 20-somethings to suited businesspeople. It rustles up some of the best lattes in town and is a relaxed venue for a few beers during the evening.
Hoi PolloiBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; off Arasta Sokak; h11am-3am; W)
This bar-cafe packs a whole load of personality into a very tiny space. By day it's a chilled-out cafe, with tables claiming the alleyway at the back of the Büyük Han. By night it's a hip but welcoming hang-out, which often hosts live music and jam sessions, and attracts an arty, slightly boho crowd.
Tezgah CafeCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Asmaaltı Sokak; h9am-11pm)
This quirky little cafe does a whole swag of different teas and coffees, including – we never thought we'd see the day – flat whites. There's a cheerful budgie chirping away by the door, and some pretty tempting-looking cakes. It's directly opposite the Kumarcılar Han.
Luna CafeCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Uray Sokak; h11am-11pm)
This arty, alternative hang-out, with comfy couches inside and Antoine de Saint-Exupéry quotes on the courtyard walls out the back, is a cosy, casual place for a quiet drink.
ÖzerlatCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Arasta Sokak 73; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat)
This cafe and shop has been around since 1935 and is famous for its own brand of coffee, which is even exported to the US. Unsurprisingly, the coffee here is excellent, and the friendly owner makes her own delicious cakes each day.
Cafe BiyerBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Mehmet Akif Caddesi 61; h11am-midnight; W)
A cosmopolitan-style bar with live music Fridays and Saturdays, and an impressive range of 14 speciality cocktails and eight brands of tequila. Bar snacks, including cheese platters and wraps, are available, or you can head to the swankier Biyer restaurant next door.
Street Corner PubBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Osman Paşa Caddesi; hnoon-2am)
Look for the pink Cadillac poised precariously on the roof at this popular Irish pub. There's frothy ale on tap and live music on Wednesdays.
DAYLIGHT SAVING IN NORTH CYPRUS
In 2016 Turkey decided to scrap daylight savings time. Northern Cyprus followed suit. This means that from late October to March Northern Cyprus is one hour ahead of the Republic, and North Nicosia (Lefkoşa) one hour ahead of Nicosia (Lefkosia).
3Entertainment
There isn't a huge amount of entertainment choice in North Nicosia. Both Hoi Polloi and Cafe No:3 often host live music on weekend nights.
Avenue CinemaxCINEMA
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 444 2400; www.avenuecinemax.com; Mehmet Akif Caddesi; adult/student 17/14TL)
Shows all the latest film offerings from Hollywood as well as Turkey. English-language films are generally shown in their original language with Turkish subtitles.
Whirling Dervish PerformanceLIVE PERFORMANCE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0542 881 0303; www.danceofcyprus.com; Bedestan; €7; hnoon, 2pm, 3pm & 5pm Mon-Sat)
Performances of the mesmerising whirling dervishes are held in the Bedestan from April to September. Performances last approximately 30 minutes.
7Shopping
The Büyük Han is the best place to pick up some memorable souvenirs; arts and crafts stalls congregate on the upper balcony.
HippoVINTAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Uray Sokak; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Lovers of kitsch and vintage would do well to have a rummage in this tiny shop; it has a vinyl collection, mid-20th-century ornaments and signage, and some serious geek paraphernalia.
Senay ErkutARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Büyük Han, Asmaaltı Sokak; h10am-7pm)
Beautiful handmade ceramic jewellery with a floral theme, which make fabulous, inexpensive and unusual gifts.
Rüstem KitabeviBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 228 3506; Girne Caddesi 22; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
This historic bookshop, crammed to the rafters with books, has plenty of secondhand and some new titles (as well as many English-language reads). It also does lunches of traditional Cypriot home-cooking in the upstairs salon, where you dine, surrounded by books, on classic dishes such as stuffed vine leaves and köfte (grilled meatballs).
The ground floor also has a branch of Gloria Jean's Coffee and a shady outside patio.
KozaARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Büyük Han, Asmaaltı Sokak; h10am-7pm)
Cyprus’ heritage of producing silk from silkworms and the once-ubiquitous mulberry tree comes alive in this shop, where owner Munise and her elderly mother hand-weave the silk patterns. The patterns were traditionally used for picture frames, or simply as framed wall decorations themselves.
Shiffa HomeFOOD, COSMETICS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Büyük Han, Asmaaltı Sokak; h10am-7pm)
Shiffa’s owner makes some of the funkiest handmade soaps we've ever seen, as well as jams, preserves and yummy marmalade. She also sells and advises on local herbal and aromatherapy remedies.
YağcioǧluARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Yeşil Gazino Sokak 46; h9am-7pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, to 1pm Wed & Sat)
Hidden away among the endless stalls of lycra leggings and similar is this shop that has been selling buttons since the 1950s. The choice is wonderfully diverse, including translucent and delicate, big and brassy and enticingly retro. Local crafts are also sold.
BUYER BEWARE
A word of warning: if you’re visiting from the South and decide to go on a shopping spree in the North, or vice versa, beware the Greek Cypriot customs regulations. You can’t take more than 40 cigarettes and 1L of alcohol or wine, plus €100 worth of other goods through the North–South passport checkpoint. So don’t go indulging in expensive carpets!
8Information
Emergency
The emergency number for the police in North Cyprus is 155.
Police station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 228 3311; Girne Caddesi; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Internet Access
Most hotels, cafes and restaurants in North Nicosia have wi-fi. You can also get online at busy and cental Orbit Internet Cafe (
GOOGLE MAP
; Girne Caddesi 180; per hr 5TL; h24hr).
Medical Services
Near East University Hospital (Yakın Doğu Üniversite Hastanesi;
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 444 0535; www.neareasthospital.com; Yakın Doğu Bulvarı; hpolyclinics 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, emergency 24hr) Northern Cyprus' leading private hospital has a centre for international patients with English-speaking doctors. Translators are available for other languages. It's on the Near East University campus, north of the centre.
Money
You can change your money into Turkish lira (TL) at the exchange office just past the passport-control booth at the Ledra St crossing. Within the Old City, though, most shops, restaurants and cafes quote their prices in both euro and lira, and plenty of day trippers from the Republic find it unnecessary to change money.
There are ATMs along Girne Caddesi. Both Ziraat Bankası (
GOOGLE MAP
; Girne Caddesi; h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri) and Kıbrıs Vakıflar Bankası (
GOOGLE MAP
; Sarayönü Sokak 22; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) have ATMs and change foreign currency.
Post
Post office (
GOOGLE MAP
; Sarayönü Caddesi; h8am-12.30pm & 1.30-4.15pm Mon-Fri)
Tourist Information
North Cyprus Tourism Organisation (NCTO;
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 227 299; www.northcyprus.org; Kyrenia Gate, Girne Caddesi; h8am-5pm) is packed full of brochures, has an excellent free town map and usually has clued-up English-speaking staff in attendance. This is the best tourist info office to go to.
There are other offices just after the Lokmacı/Ledra St passport checkpoint (NCTO;
GOOGLE MAP
; www.northcyprus.org; Lokmacı/Ledra St Passport Checkpoint; h9am-5pm) and inside the Bandabulya (NCTO;
GOOGLE MAP
; www.northcyprus.org; Bandabulya, Uray Sokak; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun).
SAFETY IN NORTH NICOSIA
North Nicosia (Lefkoşa) is a safe city and you shouldn't feel concern about walking the streets. At night, though, some parts of the Old City can be uncomfortably quiet and visitors may feel intimidated walking alone along dimly lit and often-narrow streets.
Some areas abutting the UN Buffer Zone have large black-and-red signs that clearly forbid photography. It's best to heed these, as watchful soldiers, not obviously stationed, may confront you and confiscate your camera if caught taking a snap.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Ercan Airport (Ercan Havalımanı;
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 600 5000; www.ercanhavalimani.com; Ercan Havalımanı Yolu) is 24km east of North Nicosia. The only direct flights to or from Ercan are to Turkey. All flights from other destinations transit through Turkey (even if there's no change of plane) before heading on to Ercan. Note that this means flights from Ercan to the UK are affected by the current ban on laptop and electronic devices, which must be stowed in checked baggage.
The airport has a couple of good cafes and a huge duty-free shop in the Departure hall, and ATMs and car-hire kiosks in the Arrivals hall.
The main airlines operating out of Ercan are Turkish Airlines and its subsidary Anadolu Jet (www.turkishairlines.com), and Pegasus Airlines (www.flypgs.com).
ARRIVING BY AIR VIA THE REPUBLIC
Many travellers to Northern Cyprus use Larnaka International Airport which, due to the number of airlines flying direct from European destinations, generally has a better choice of flights at lower cost than Ercan Airport.
Non-EU citizens wanting to visit all of the island would be wise to fly into either Larnaka or Pafos rather than Ercan. The Republic of Cyprus regards Ercan – and the ferry ports of Kyrenia (Girne) and Famagusta (Gazimağusa) – as an illegal point of entry and reserves the right to refuse entry into the South to anyone who has arrived at these points. EU citizens are not affected by this. In practice, officials at the passport checkpoints rarely enforce it, but we hear of a couple of cases each year where travellers have been refused entry.
Bus
Dolmuşes (minibuses) and buses to Famagusta (Gazimağusa; 11TL, one hour) and Kyrenia (Girne; 5TL, 25 minutes) leave every 15 minutes from the main bus station (Otobüs Terminalı; GOOGLE MAP ; Cemal Gürsel Caddesi) in the New City. There are also dolmuşes to Morfou (Güzelyurt; 8TL, 45 minutes), and Lefke (Lefka) and Gemikonağı (Karavostasi; 11TL, one hour) from here every 30 minutes, as well as to a few other destinations.
Buses to Famagusta begin at the separate İtimat bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Kaymaklı Yolu) nearer to the Old City, before making a stop at the main bus station. Dolmuşes to Kyrenia all make a stop to pick up passengers at a bus stop just outside the Old City walls near Kyrenia Gate (Girne Kapısı).
Car & Motorcycle
Drivers and riders enter North Nicosia via one of two main roads leading directly to the Old City. From Famagusta or Ercan Airport you will enter North Nicosia via Mustafa Ahmet Ruso Caddesi, which turns into Cemal Gürsel Caddesi. This road leads directly to Kyrenia Gate. Arriving from Kyrenia, you will enter North Nicosia via Tekin Yurdabay Caddesi and eventually Bedrettin Demirel Caddesi, which also leads towards Kyrenia Gate.
If you are entering North Nicosia from the Republic of Cyprus, the car crossing point is at Agios Dometios, west of the city. The easiest way into the Old City is to turn off Osman Paşa Caddesi onto Memduh Asaf Sokak and follow that down to the moat. Turn left onto Tanzimat Sokak as soon as you cross the moat and you will reach Kyrenia Gate after about 200m.
Finding a place to park in the Old City can get tricky if you arrive late in the morning on a working day. If you arrive early, you can easily park on Girne Caddesi.
Service Taxi
The quickest and most comfortable public transport to Kyrenia is by kombos (shared taxis). These leave from the kombooffice ( GOOGLE MAP ) just south of the Mevlevi Tekke Museum every 10 to 15 minutes (8TL, 20 minutes).
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Kibhas airport shuttle (
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 228 8590; www.kibhas.org; Cemal Gürsel Caddesi; per person 13TL) has 12 services between Ercan and the bus station on Cemal Gürsel Caddesi daily (35 minutes).
A taxi from the airport to North Nicosia Old City costs around 70TL.
Bus
There are plentiful dolmuşes (minibuses) zipping between the Old City and the New City suburbs. These leave from just outside Kyrenia Gate.
Car
Sun Rent a Car (
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 227 2303; www.sunrentacar.com; Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi 10; per day from £20; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) If you’re coming from the South, you can call ahead and see if this outfit can pick you up from Kyrenia Gate. It also arranges pick-ups from Larnaka International Airport for clients. Minimum hire period three days.
Taxi
There are plenty of taxi ranks in the Old City; the most convenient and easiest to find are Nato Taxi (
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 227 1556; İstanbul Caddesi) and Özner Taxi (
GOOGLE MAP
; %0392 227 4012; Tanzımat Sokak), both at Kyrenia Gate. A ride within town should cost between 10TL and 15TL, and drivers are usually good about turning on the meter.