6Drinking & Nightlife
Nights in the Spanish capital are the stuff of legend. They’re invariably long and loud most nights of the week, rising to a deafening crescendo as the weekend nears.
6Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid
oThe Sherry Corner WINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 
%68 1007700; www.sherry-corner.com; Stall 24, Mercado de San Miguel, Plaza de San Miguel; 
h10am-9pm; 
mSol)
The Sherry Corner, inside the Mercado de San Miguel, has found an excellent way to give a crash course in sherry. For €30, you get six small glasses of top-quality sherry to taste, each of which is matched to a different tapa. Guiding you through the process is an audioguide available in eight languages.
oTeatro Joy Eslava CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Joy Madrid; %91 366 37 33; www.joy-eslava.com; Calle del Arenal 11; admission €12-15; h11.30pm-6am; mSol)
The only things guaranteed at this grand old Madrid dance club (housed in a 19th-century theatre) are a crowd and the fact that it’ll be open (it claims to have operated every single day since 1981). The music and the crowd are a mixed bag, but queues are long and invariably include locals and tourists, and the occasional famoso (celebrity).
oChocolatería de San Ginés CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 65 46; www.chocolateriasangines.com; Pasadizo de San Ginés 5; h24hr; mSol)
One of the grand icons of the Madrid night, this chocolate con churros cafe sees a sprinkling of tourists throughout the day, but locals pack it out in their search for sustenance on their way home from a nightclub somewhere close to dawn. Only in Madrid…
Bodegas Ricla BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 20 69; Calle Cuchilleros 6; h1-4pm & 7pm-midnight Wed-Sat & Mon, 1-4pm Sun; mTirso de Molina)
Bodegas Ricla is so tiny you might be rubbing haunches with other customers as you sip your wine. For more than 100 years, it’s been serving tasty authentic tapas and local vintages: red, white and pink wines, cavas and vermouth. Inside, little has changed in decades, with old-style terracotta barrels and pictures of bullfighters lining the walls.
Anticafé CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.anticafe.es; Calle de la Unión 2; h5pm-2am Tue-Sun; mÓpera)
Bohemian kitsch at its best is the prevailing theme here and it runs right through the decor and regular cultural events (poetry readings and concerts). As such, it won’t be to everyone’s taste, but we think it adds some much-needed variety to the downtown drinking scene.
Cafe de Oriente CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 541 39 74; Plaza de Oriente 2; h8.30am-1.30am Mon-Thu, 9am-2.30am Fri & Sat, 9am-1.30am Sun; mÓpera)
The outdoor tables of this distinguished old cafe are among the most sought-after in central Madrid, providing as they do a front-row seat for the beautiful Plaza de Oriente, with the Palacio Real as a backdrop. The building itself was once part of a long-gone, 17th-century convent and the interior feels a little like a set out of Mitteleuropa.
Café del Real BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 547 21 24; Plaza de Isabel II 2; h8am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2.30am Fri, 9am-2.30am Sat, 10am-11.30pm Sun; mÓpera)
A cafe and cocktail bar in equal parts, this intimate little place serves up creative coffees and a few cocktails (the mojitos are excellent) to the soundtrack of chill-out music. The best seats are upstairs, where the low ceilings, wooden beams and leather chairs make for a great place to pass an afternoon with friends.
6La Latina & Lavapiés
oTaberna El Tempranillo WINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 364 15 32; Calle de la Cava Baja 38; h1-4pm Mon, 1-4pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun; mLa Latina)
You could come here for the tapas, but we recommend Taberna El Tempranillo primarily for its wines, of which it has a selection that puts numerous Spanish bars to shame. It’s not a late-night place, but it’s always packed in the early evening and on Sunday after El Rastro. Many wines are sold by the glass.
oDelic BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 364 54 50; www.delic.es; Costanilla de San Andrés 14; h11am-2am Sun & Tue-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; mLa Latina)
We could go on for hours about this long-standing cafe-bar, but we’ll reduce it to its most basic elements: nursing an exceptionally good mojito or three on a warm summer’s evening at Delic’s outdoor tables on one of Madrid’s prettiest plazas is one of life’s great pleasures. Bliss.
Boconó Specialty Coffee CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 040 20 19; www.bocono.es; Calle de los Embajadores 3; coffee €1.60-3; h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, 9.30am-8.30pm Sun; 
W; mLa Latina)
Close attention to every detail makes Boconó unique – coffee is roasted on-site and fanatics have a choice of styles: espresso, AeroPress and Chemex, among others. Coffee is weighed before brewing and water is dosed out by the millilitre. The decor is minimal, with reclaimed wood and rough brick, the wi-fi is fast and the service is friendly.
El Eucalipto COCKTAIL BAR
(%91 527 27 63; www.facebook.com/eeucalipto; Calle de Argumosa 4; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mLavapiés)
This fine little bar is devoted to all things Cuban – from the music to the clientele and the Caribbean cocktails (including nonalcoholic), it’s a sexy, laid-back place. Not surprisingly, the mojitos are a cut above average, but the juices and daiquiris also have a loyal following.
El Bonanno WINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 68 86; www.elbonanno.com; Plaza del Humilladero 4; hnoon-2am; mLa Latina)
If much of Madrid’s nightlife starts too late for your liking, Bonanno could be for you. It made its name as a cocktail bar, but many people also come here for the great wines. It’s usually full of young professionals from early evening onwards. Be prepared to snuggle up close to those around you if you want a spot at the bar.
Café del Nuncio BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 08 53; www.cafedelnuncio.es; Calle de Segovia 9; h11am-1am; mLa Latina)
Café del Nuncio straggles down a laneway to Calle de Segovia. You can drink on one of several cosy levels inside or, better still in summer, enjoy the outdoor seating that one local reviewer likened to a slice of Rome. By day it’s an old-world cafe with great coffee, but by night it’s one of the best no-frills bars in the barrio.
6Sol, Santa Ana & Huertas
oLa Venencia BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 73 13; Calle de Echegaray 7; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30pm-1.30am; mSol, Sevilla)
La Venencia is a barrio classic, with manzanilla (chamomile-coloured sherry) from Sanlúcar and sherry from Jeréz poured straight from the dusty wooden barrels, accompanied by a small selection of tapas with an Andalucian bent. There’s no music, no flashy decorations; here it’s all about you, your fino (sherry) and your friends.
Salmón Gurú COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 000 61 85; http://salmonguru.es; Calle de Echegaray 21; h5pm-2.30am Wed-Sun; mAntón Martín)
When Sergi Arola’s empire collapsed and the celebrated Le Cabrera cocktail bar went with it, Madrid lost one of its best cocktail maestros, Diego Cabrera. Thankfully, he’s back with a wonderful multifaceted space where he serves up a masterful collection of drinks – work your way through his menu of 25 Cabrera clasicos to get started.
Tartân Roof LOUNGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; La Azotea; www.azoteadelcirculo.com; 7th fl, Calle Marqués de Casa Riera 2; admission €4; h9am-2am Mon-Thu, to 2.30am Fri, 11am-2.30am Sat & Sun)
Order a cocktail, then lie down on the cushions and admire the vista from this fabulous rooftop terrace. It’s a brilliant place to chill out, with the views at their best close to sunset.
El Imperfecto COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaza de Matute 2; h5pm-2.30am Mon-Thu, 3pm-2.30am Fri & Sat; mAntón Martín)
Its name notwithstanding, the ‘Imperfect One’ is our ideal Huertas bar, with occasional live jazz and a drinks menu as long as a saxophone, ranging from cocktails (€7, or two mojitos for €10) and spirits to milkshakes, teas and creative coffees. Its pina colada is one of the best we’ve tasted and the atmosphere is agreeably buzzy yet chilled.
Taberna La Dolores BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 22 43; Plaza de Jesús 4; h11am-1am; mAntón Martín)
Old bottles and beer mugs line the shelves behind the bar at this Madrid institution (1908), known for its blue-and-white-tiled exterior and for a 30-something crowd that often includes the odd famoso (celebrity) or two. It claims to be ‘the most famous bar in Madrid’ – that’s pushing it, but it’s invariably full most nights of the week, so who are we to argue?
Taberna Alhambra BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 07 08; Calle de la Victoria 9; h11am-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; mSol)
There can be a certain sameness about the bars between Sol and Huertas, which is why this fine old taberna stands out. The striking facade and exquisite tile work of the interior are quite beautiful; however, this place is anything but stuffy and the feel is cool, casual and busy. It serves tapas and, later at night, there are some fine flamenco tunes.
La Terraza del Urban COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 787 77 70; Carrera de San Jerónimo 34, Urban Hotel; hnoon-8pm Sun & Mon, to 3am Tue-Sat mid-May–Sep; mSevilla)
A strong contender for best rooftop bar in Madrid, this indulgent terrace sits atop the five-star Urban Hotel and has five-star views with five-star prices – worth every euro. It’s only open while the weather’s warm.
In case you get vertigo, head downstairs to the similarly high-class Glass Bar (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Carrera de San Jerónimo 34, Hotel Urban; hnoon-3am; mSevilla).
Radio COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 701 60 20; www.memadrid.com; 7th fl, Plaza de Santa Ana 14; h7pm-2am Mon-Thu, 5pm-3am Fri, 1pm-3am Sat, 1pm-2am Sun; mAntón Martín, Sol)
High above the Plaza de Santa Ana, this sybaritic open-air cocktail bar has terrific views over Madrid’s rooftops. It’s a place for sophisticates, with chill-out areas strewn with cushions, DJs and a dress and door policy designed to sort out the classy from the wannabes.
6El Retiro & the Art Museums
Teatro Kapital CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 420 29 06; www.grupo-kapital.com; Calle de Atocha 125; admission from €17; hmidnight-6am Thu-Sat; mAtocha)
One of the most famous megaclubs in Madrid, this seven-storey venue has something for everyone, from cocktail bars and dance music to karaoke, salsa, hip hop, chilled spaces and an open-air rooftop. There’s even a ‘Kissing Room’. Door staff have their share of attitude and don’t mind refusing entrance if you give them any lip.
It’s such a big place that a cross-section of Madrid society (VIPs and the Real Madrid set love this place) hangs out here without ever getting in each other’s way.
6Salamanca
Gabana 1800 CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 575 18 46; www.gabana.es; Calle Velázquez 6; admission €15; hmidnight-5.30am Wed-Sat; mRetiro)
With its upmarket crowd that invariably includes a few famosos (famous people), Gabana 1800 is very Salamanca. That this place has lasted the distance where others haven’t owes much to the fabulous array of drinks, rotating cast of first-class DJs and fairly discerning door policy – dress to impress.
Almonte CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 563 25 04; www.almontesalarociera.com; Calle de Juan Bravo 35; h11pm-5am Sun-Fri, 10pm-6am Sat; mNúñez de Balboa, Diego de León)
If flamenco has captured your soul, but you’re keen to do more than watch, head to Almonte. Live acts kick off the night, paying homage to the flamenco roots of Almonte in Andalucía’s deep south. The young and the beautiful who come here have sevillanas (a flamenco dance style) in their soul and in their feet.
Geographic Club BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 578 08 62; www.thegeographicclub.es; Calle de Alcalá 141; h1pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mGoya)
With its elaborate stained-glass windows, ethno-chic from all over the world and laid-back atmosphere, the Geographic Club is an excellent choice in Salamanca for an early-evening drink – try one of the 30-plus tropical cocktails. We like the table built around an old hot-air-balloon basket almost as much as the cavern-like pub downstairs.
6Malasaña & Chueca
oMuseo Chicote COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 67 37; www.grupomercadodelareina.com/en/museo-chicote-en; Gran Vía 12; h7pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, 4pm-1am Sun; mGran Vía)
This place is a Madrid landmark, complete with its 1930s-era interior, and its founder is said to have invented more than 100 cocktails, which the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Ava Gardner, Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren and Frank Sinatra have all enjoyed at one time or another.
oCafé Belén BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 308 27 47; www.elcafebelen.com; Calle de Belén 5; h3.30pm-3am Tue-Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun; W; mChueca)
Café Belén is cool in all the right places – lounge and chill-out music, dim lighting, a great range of drinks (the mojitos are especially good) and a low-key crowd that’s the height of casual sophistication. It’s one of our preferred Chueca watering holes.
La Tape CRAFT BEER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 593 04 22; www.latape.com; Calle de San Bernardo 88; h10am-2am; mBilbao, San Bernardo)
Long before craft or artisan beers took hold in Madrid, La Tape was onto it. The menu has 22 Spanish and international beers, as well as a strong selection of gluten-free beers. With plenty on tap to choose from, it’s a beer-lover’s pleasure to come here.
Café Comercial CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 088 25 25; www.cafecomercialmadrid.com; Glorieta de Bilbao 7; h7.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 8.30am-midnight Sat & Sun; W; mBilbao)
The city’s oldest cafe has a special place in the hearts of many madrileños. Open for more than a century, it’s still pulsing with life. Any day of the week you can enjoy a coffee or some food at one of the old marble-topped tables and feel like you’re part of Madrid’s literary and cultural scene.
Nice to Meet You BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %638 908559; www.dearhotelmadrid.com/en/nice-to-meet-you; Gran Vía 80, 14th fl, Dear Hotel; h7.30am-2am; mPlaza de España)
This rooftop bar occupying the top floor of Dear Hotel has a spectacular view of Plaza España and Malasaña. Come any time of day to sit down with a cocktail and enjoy the view, or try something to eat – food specialities include Mediterranean staples like cod and ox steak.
1862 Dry Bar COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %609 531151; www.facebook.com/1862DryBar; Calle del Pez 27; h3.30pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; mNoviciado)
Great cocktails, muted early-20th-century decor and a refined air make this one of our favourite bars down Malasaña’s southern end. Prices are reasonable, the cocktail list extensive and new cocktails appear every month.
Café-Restaurante El Espejo CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 308 23 47; Paseo de los Recoletos 31; h8am-midnight; mColón)
Once a haunt of writers and intellectuals, this architectural gem blends Modernista and art-deco styles, and its interior could well overwhelm you with all the mirrors, chandeliers and bow-tied service of another era. The atmosphere is suitably quiet and refined, although our favourite corner is the elegant glass pavilion out on Paseo de los Recoletos.
Gran Café de Gijón CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 54 25; www.cafegijon.com; Paseo de los Recoletos 21; h7am-1.30am; mChueca, Banco de España)
This graceful old cafe has been serving coffee and meals since 1888 and has long been favoured by Madrid’s literati for a drink or a meal – all of Spain’s great 20th-century literary figures came here for coffee and tertulias (literary and philosophical discussions). You’ll find yourself among intellectuals, conservative Franco diehards and young madrileños looking for a quiet drink.
Irreale BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 172 28 02; www.facebook.com/irrealemadrid; Calle de Manuela Malasaña 20; h6pm-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu, 1pm-2.30am Fri & Sat; mBilbao)
It’s not that long ago that you entered any Madrid bar and ordered una cerveza (a beer). There was only one kind. But craft beers have now taken hold and Irreale has a particularly strong selection with a changing roster of around 10 beers on tap and dozens by the bottle. It’s a great place to start your Malasaña night.
José Alfredo COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 49 60; www.josealfredobar.com; Calle de Silva 22; cocktails from €9; h7pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat; mCallao)
This American-style cocktail bar just off Gran Vía is an institution. It plays indie music and does fabulous cocktails – try the ‘Lazy Bitch’ (rum, banana liqueur, cinnamon liqueur and lime juice) or the ‘José Alfredo’ (tequila, curaçao, grenadine, lime and pineapple and orange juice).
Kikekeller BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 87 67; www.kikekeller.com; Calle de la Corredera Baja de San Pablo 17; h7pm-2.30am Thu-Sat; mCallao)
A small but growing trend of the Madrid night is that of bares clandestinos (clandestine bars). While it may sound vaguely illicit, it’s all above board – shops by days morph effortlessly into cool bars after dark. Our favourite is Kikekeller, an avant-garde furniture and interior decoration shop where they can’t even wait for the shop to close on Saturday before opening the bar.
It’s one of the more original places to enjoy the Madrid night.
Fábrica Maravillas BREWERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 87 53; www.fmaravillas.com; Calle de Valverde 29; h6pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 2am Fri, 12.30pm-2am Sat, 12.30pm-midnight Sun; mTribunal, Gran Vía)
Spain has taken its time getting behind the worldwide trend of boutique and artisan beers, but it’s finally starting to happen. The finest example of this in Madrid is Fábrica Maravillas, a microbrewery known for its ‘Malasaña Ale’.
Tupperware BAR, CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 446 42 04; www.tupperwareclub.com; Calle de la Corredera Alta de San Pablo 26; h9pm-3am Mon-Wed, 8pm-3.30am Thu-Sat, 8pm-3am Sun; mTribunal)
A Malasaña stalwart and prime candidate for the bar that best catches the enduring rockero (rocker) spirit of Malasaña, Tupperware draws a 30-something crowd, spins indie rock with a bit of soul and classics from the ’60s and ’70s, and generally revels in its kitsch (eyeballs stuck to the ceiling, and plastic TVs with action-figure dioramas lined up behind the bar).
By the way, locals pronounce it ‘Tupper-warry’.
Café de Mahón CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 47 56; www.facebook.com/cafedemahon; Plaza del Dos de Mayo 4; hnoon-1.30am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri-Sun; mBilbao)
If we had to choose our favourite slice of Malasaña life, this engaging little cafe, with outdoor tables that watch over Plaza del Dos de Mayo, would be a prime candidate. It’s beloved by famosos (celebrities) as much as by the locals catching up for a quiet drink with friends. Official opening times notwithstanding, it has a habit of opening and closing whenever the whim takes it.
Antigua Casa Ángel Sierra TAVERNA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 01 26; http://tabernadeangelsierra.es; Calle de Gravina 11; hnoon-1am; mChueca)
This historic old taberna (tavern) is the antithesis of modern Chueca chic – it has hardly changed since it opened in 1917. As Spaniards like to say, the beer on tap is very ‘well poured’ here and it also has vermouth on tap. It can get pretty lively weekend evenings when it not so much spills over onto the vibrant Plaza de Chueca as takes it over.
Moloko Sound Club BAR, CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %626 529967; www.molokosoundclub.com; Calle de Quiñones 12; h10.30pm-3.30am Wed-Sat; mSan Bernardo)
With its walls plastered with old concert flyers and the odd art-house movie poster (eg A Clockwork Orange), Moloko remains an excellent middle-of-the-night option in the Conde Duque area of western Malasaña. The music – indie, rock, soul, garage and ’60s – is consistently good, which is why people return here again and again.
Café Manuela CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 70 37; www.facebook.com/CafeManuela; Calle de San Vicente Ferrer 29; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; mTribunal)
Stumbling into this graciously restored throwback to the 1950s along one of Malasaña’s grittier streets is akin to discovering hidden treasure. There’s a luminous quality to it when you come in out of the night and, like so many Madrid cafes, it’s a surprisingly multifaceted space, serving cocktails and delicious milkshakes as well as offering board games atop the marble tables.
Lolina Vintage Café CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 523 58 59; www.lolinacafe.com; Calle del Espíritu Santo 9; h10am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; mTribunal)
Lolina Vintage Café seems to have captured the essence of the barrio in one small space, with its studied retro look (comfy old-style chairs and sofas, gilded mirrors and 1970s-era wallpaper). It’s low-key, full from the first breakfast to closing, and it caters to every taste with salads and cocktails.
La Terraza de Arriba LOUNGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Splash Óscar; Plaza de Vázquez de Mella 12; h6.30pm-2.30am Wed & Thu, 4.30pm-2.30am Fri-Sun mid-May–mid-Sep; mGran Vía)
One of Madrid’s stunning rooftop terraces, this chilled space atop Hotel Óscar, with gorgeous skyline views and a small swimming pool, has become something of a retreat among A-list celebrities.
Bar Cock COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 28 26; www.barcock.com; Calle de la Reina 16; h7pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat; mGran Vía)
With a name like this, Bar Cock could go either way, but it’s definitely cock as in ‘rooster’. The decor evokes an old gentlemen’s club and the feeling is more elegant and classic than risqué. It’s beloved by A-list celebrities and A-list wannabes, and a refined 30-something crowd who come here for the lively atmosphere and great cocktails.
On weekends all the tables seem to be reserved, so be prepared to hover on the fringes of fame.
La Vía Láctea BAR, CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 446 75 81; www.facebook.com/lavialacteabar; Calle de Velarde 18; h8pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat; mTribunal)
A living, breathing and delightfully grungy relic of la movida madrileña (the Madrid scene), La Vía Láctea remains a Malasaña favourite for a mixed, informal crowd who seems to live for the 1980s. The music ranges across rock, pop, garage, rockabilly and indie. There are plenty of drinks to choose from and by late Saturday night anything goes. Expect long queues to get in on weekends.
Del Diego COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 523 31 06; www.deldiego.com; Calle de la Reina 12; h7pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat; mGran Vía)
Del Diego is one of the city’s most celebrated cocktail bars. The decor blends old-world cafe with New York style, and it’s the sort of place where the music rarely drowns out the conversation. Even with around 75 cocktails to choose from, we’d still order the signature ‘El Diego’ (vodka, advocaat, apricot brandy and lime).
GAY & LESBIAN MADRID
Madrid is one of Europe’s most gay-friendly cities. The heartbeat of gay Madrid is the inner-city barrio of Chueca, where Madrid didn’t just come out of the closet, but ripped the doors off in the process. But even here the crowd is almost always mixed gay/straight. The best time of all to be in town if you’re gay or lesbian is around the last Saturday in June, for Madrid’s gay and lesbian pride march, Día del Orgullo de Gays, Lesbianas y Transexuales. An excellent place to stay is Hostal La Zona.
Librería Berkana (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 55 99; www.libreriaberkana.com; Calle de Hortaleza 62; h10.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-9pm Sat, noon-2pm & 5-9pm Sun; mChueca) One of the most important gay and lesbian bookshops in Madrid, Librería Berkana stocks gay books, movies, magazines, music, clothing, and a host of free magazines for nightlife and other gay-focused activities in Madrid and around Spain.
Mamá Inés (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 523 23 33; www.mamaines.com; Calle de Hortaleza 22; h9am-1.30am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; mChueca) A gay meeting place, this cafe-bar has a laid-back ambience by day and a romantic (never sleazy) air by night. You can get breakfast, yummy pastries and the word on where that night’s hot spot will be. There’s a steady stream of people coming and going throughout the day. The lights are turned down low as evening turns into night.
Café Acuarela (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 21 43; Calle de Gravina 10; h11am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mChueca) A few steps up the hill from Plaza de Chueca, this longtime centrepiece of gay Madrid – a huge statue of a nude male angel guards the doorway – is an agreeable, dimly lit salon decorated with, among other things, religious icons. It’s ideal for quiet conversation and catching the weekend buzz as people plan their forays into the more clamorous clubs in the vicinity.
Club 54 Studio (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %615 126807; www.studio54madrid.com; Calle de Barbieri 7; h11am-3.30am Wed-Sun; mChueca) Modelled on the famous New York club Studio 54, this nightclub draws a predominantly gay crowd, but its target market is more upmarket than many in the barrio. Unlike other Madrid clubs where paid dancers up on stage try to get things moving, here they let the punters set the pace.
Why Not? (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 80 34; Calle de San Bartolomé 7; entrance €10; h10.30pm-6am; mChueca) Underground, narrow and packed with bodies, gay-friendly Why Not? is the sort of place where nothing’s left to the imagination (the gay and straight crowd who come here are pretty amorous) and it’s full nearly every night of the week. Pop and Top 40 music are the standard, and the dancing crowd is mixed but all serious about having a good time.
We’re not huge fans of the bouncers here, but once you get past them it’s all good fun.
6Parque del Oeste & Northern Madrid
La Violeta BAR
(%667 058644; www.lavioletavermut.com; Calle Vallehermoso 62; h7pm-1am Tue-Thu, 1-4.30pm & 7pm-2am Fri, 1pm-2am Sat, 1-5pm Sun; mCanal)
This breezy little Chamberí bar has many calling cards – among them, great music and a sense of being a real old-style Madrid neighbourhood bar. But we like it for its vermut (vermouth), one of the city’s favourite drinks. Unusually, there are more than 20 different versions to try and staff are adept at pairing the perfect tapa (snack) with each variety.
La Vaquería Montañesa BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 138 71 06; www.lavaqueriamontanesa.es; Calle de Blanca de Navarra 8; h1pm-1am Fri & Sat; mAlonso Martínez)
Inhabiting an old dairy and tucked away in a little-visited corner of Chamberí like some hidden Madrid treasure, La Vaquería Montañesa does terrific food but it’s the vermouth, served in a martini glass, that really draws us back. The look here is whitewashed, classy and contemporary.
The Dash COCKTAIL BAR
(%687 949064; www.facebook.com/thedashmadrid; Calle de Murillo 5; h4pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat, 1-11pm Sun; mIglesia)
This neighbourhood cocktail bar with its big marble bar top evokes the classic cocktail bars of Madrid’s past but it’s a casual place with few pretensions. There’s a terrific mix of cocktails with few surprises but all expertly mixed.
Real Café Bernabéu BAR
(%91 458 36 67; www.realcafebernabeu.es; Gate 30, Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, Avenida de Concha Espina; h10am-2am; mSantiago Bernabéu)
Overlooking one of the most famous football fields on earth, this trendy cocktail bar will appeal to those who live and breathe football or those who simply enjoy mixing with the beautiful people. Views of the stadium are exceptional, although it closes two hours before a game and doesn’t open until an hour after. There’s also a good restaurant.
3Entertainment
Madrid has a happening live-music scene that owes a lot to the city’s role as the cultural capital of the Spanish-speaking world. There’s flamenco, world-class jazz and a host of performers you may never have heard of but who may just be Spain’s next big thing. For a dose of high culture, there’s opera and zarzuela (Spanish mix of theatre, music and dance).
3Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid
Las Tablas FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 542 05 20; www.lastablasmadrid.com; Plaza de España 9; admission incl drink from €29; hshows 8pm & 10pm; mPlaza de España)
Las Tablas has a reputation for quality flamenco and reasonable prices; it’s among the best choices in town. Most nights you’ll see a classic flamenco show, with plenty of throaty singing and soul-baring dancing. Antonia Moya and Marisol Navarro, leading lights in the flamenco world, are regular performers here.
La Coquette Blues LIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 530 80 95; Calle de las Hileras 14; h8pm-3am Tue-Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat, 7pm-3am Sun; mÓpera)
Madrid’s best blues bar has been around since the 1980s and its 8pm Sunday jam session is legendary. Live acts perform from Tuesday to Thursday at 10.30pm and the atmosphere is very cool at any time.
Torres Bermejas FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 33 22; www.torresbermejas.com; Calle de los Mesoneros Romanos 11; admission incl drink from €35; hshows 7pm & 9pm; mCallao)
For decades this was the Madrid stage for flamenco legend Camarón de la Isla, and after a drop in quality for a few years, it’s once again a good place to see flamenco. The atmosphere is aided by the extravagantly tiled interior.
Café Berlin JAZZ
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 559 74 29; www.berlincafe.es; Costanilla de los Ángeles 20; €5-20; h9pm-3am Tue-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; mSanto Domingo)
El Berlín has been something of a Madrid jazz stalwart since the 1950s, although a makeover has brought flamenco (Wednesday is a flamenco jam session), R&B, soul, funk and fusion into the mix. Headline acts play at 11pm, although check the website as some can begin as early as 9pm.
Las Carboneras FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 542 86 77; www.tablaolascarboneras.com; Plaza del Conde de Miranda 1; show incl drink/meal €35/70; hshows 8.30pm & 10.30pm Mon-Thu, 8.30pm & 11pm Fri & Sat; mÓpera, Sol, La Latina)
Like most of the tablaos (flamenco venues) around town, this place sees far more tourists than locals, but the quality is nonetheless excellent. It’s not the place for gritty, soul-moving spontaneity, but it’s still an excellent introduction and one of the few places that flamenco aficionados seem to have no complaints about.
Café de Chinitas FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 547 15 02; www.chinitas.com; Calle de Torija 7; admission incl drink/meal €36/55; hshows 8.15pm & 10.30pm Mon-Sat; mSanto Domingo)
One of the most distinguished tablaos in Madrid, drawing in everyone from the Spanish royal family to Bill Clinton, Café de Chinitas has an elegant setting and top-notch performers. It may attract loads of tourists, but its authentic flamenco also gives it top marks. Reservations are highly recommended.
Teatro Real OPERA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %902 244848; www.teatro-real.com; Plaza de Oriente; mÓpera)
After spending over €100 million on a long rebuilding project, the Teatro Real is as technologically advanced as any venue in Europe, and is the city’s grandest stage for elaborate operas, ballets and classical music. The cheapest seats are so far away you’ll need a telescope, although the sound quality is consistent throughout.
3La Latina & Lavapiés
oCasa Patas FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 369 04 96; www.casapatas.com; Calle de Cañizares 10; admission incl drink €38; hshows 10.30pm Mon-Thu, 8pm & 10.30pm Fri & Sat; mAntón Martín, Tirso de Molina)
One of the top flamenco stages in Madrid, this tablao always offers flawless quality that serves as a good introduction to the art. It’s not the friendliest place in town, especially if you’re only here for the show, and you’re likely to be crammed in a little, but no one complains about the standard of the performances.
oCorral de la Morería FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 84 46; www.corraldelamoreria.com; Calle de la Morería 17; admission incl drink from €45; h7pm-12.15am, shows 8.30pm & 10.20pm; mÓpera)
This is one of the most prestigious flamenco stages in Madrid, with 50 years of experience as a leading venue and top performers most nights. The stage area has a rustic feel, and tables are pushed up close. Set menus from €45 (additional to the admission fee).
ContraClub LIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 55 45; www.contraclub.es; Calle de Bailén 16; entrance €3-15; h10pm-6am Wed-Sat; mLa Latina)
ContraClub is a crossover live music venue and nightclub, with an eclectic mix of live music (pop, rock, indie, singer-songwriter, blues etc). After the live acts (from 10pm), resident DJs serve up equally diverse beats (indie, pop, funk and soul) to make sure you don’t move elsewhere.
3Sol, Santa Ana & Huertas
oSala El Sol LIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 64 90; www.elsolmad.com; Calle de los Jardines 3; admission incl drink €10, concert tickets €6-30; hmidnight-5.30am Tue-Sat Jul-Sep; mGran Vía)
Madrid institutions don’t come any more beloved than the terrific Sala El Sol. It opened in 1979, just in time for la movida madrileña (the Madrid scene), and quickly established itself as a leading stage for all the icons of the era, such as Nacha Pop and Alaska y los Pegamoides.
oVilla Rosa FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 36 89; www.reservas.tablaoflamencovillarosa.com; Plaza de Santa Ana 15; admission incl drink adult/child €35/17; h11pm-6am Mon-Sat, shows 8.30pm & 10.45pm; mSol)
Villa Rosa has been going strong since 1914, and in that time it has seen many manifestations. It originally made its name as a flamenco venue and has recently returned to its roots with well-priced shows and meals that won’t break the bank.
The extraordinary tiled facade (1928) is the work of Alfonso Romero, who was also responsible for the tile work in the Plaza de Toros – the facade is a tourist attraction in itself. This long-standing nightclub even appeared in the Pedro Almodóvar film Tacones lejanos (High Heels; 1991).
oCafé Central JAZZ
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 369 41 43; www.cafecentralmadrid.com; Plaza del Ángel 10; admission €12-18; h12.30pm-2.30am Mon-Thu, to 3.30am Fri, 11.30am-3.30am Sat, performances 9pm; mAntón Martín, Sol)
In 2011 the respected jazz magazine Down Beat included this art-deco bar on the list of the world’s best jazz clubs, the only place in Spain to earn the prestigious accolade (said by some to be the jazz equivalent of earning a Michelin star). With well over 1000 gigs under its belt, it rarely misses a beat.
Big international names like Chano Domínguez, Tal Farlow and Wynton Marsalis have all played here and you’ll hear everything from Latin jazz and fusion to tango and classical jazz. Performers usually play here for a week and then move on, so getting tickets shouldn’t be a problem, except on weekends. Shows start at 9pm and tickets go on sale from 6pm before the set starts. You can also reserve by phone.
oTeatro de la Zarzuela THEATRE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 524 54 00; www.teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es; Calle de Jovellanos 4; tickets €5-60; hbox office noon-6pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm Sat & Sun; mBanco de España, Sevilla)
This theatre, built in 1856, is the premier place to see zarzuela (Spanish mix of theatre, music and dance). It also hosts a smattering of classical music and opera, as well as the cutting edge Compañía Nacional de Danza.
Costello Café & Niteclub LIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 18 15; www.costelloclub.com; Calle del Caballero de Gracia 10; €8-20; h8pm-2.30am Tue, to 3am Wed & Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat; mGran Vía)
The very cool Costello Café & Niteclub weds smooth-as-silk ambience to an innovative mix of pop, rock and fusion in Warholesque surrounds. There’s live music (pop and rock, often of the indie variety) at 9.30pm every night except Sunday and Monday, with resident and visiting DJs keeping you on your feet until closing time the rest of the week.
WHAT’S ON IN MADRID?
EsMadrid Magazine (www.esmadrid.com) Monthly tourist-office listings.
Guía del Ocio (www.guiadelocio.com) Weekly magazine available for €1 at news kiosks.
In Madrid (www.in-madrid.com) Free monthly English-language publication.
Metropoli (www.elmundo.es/metropoli) El Mundo newspaper’s Friday supplement magazine.
La Noche en Vivo (www.lanocheenvivo.com) Live music listings.
3Malasaña & Chueca
oTeatro Flamenco Madrid FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 159 20 05; www.teatroflamencomadrid.com; Calle del Pez 10; adult/student & senior/child €25/16/12; h6.45pm & 8.15pm; mNoviciado)
This excellent new flamenco venue is a terrific deal. With a focus on quality flamenco (dance, song and guitar) rather than the more formal meal-and-floor-show package of the tablaos (choreographed flamenco shows), and with a mixed crowd of locals and tourists, this place generates a terrific atmosphere most nights for the hour-long show. Prices are also a notch below what you’ll pay elsewhere.
Thundercat LIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %654 511457; www.thundercatclub.com; Calle de Campoamor 11; h10pm-6am Thu-Sat; mAlonso Martínez)
They keep it simple at Thundercat – it’s rock, as classic as they can find it, with live gigs beginning after midnight and rolling on through the night. There’s a fine jam session at 11.30pm Thursday.
El Junco Jazz Club JAZZ
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 319 20 81; www.eljunco.com; Plaza de Santa Bárbara 10; €6-15; h11pm-5.30am Tue-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; mAlonso Martínez)
El Junco has established itself on the Madrid nightlife scene by appealing as much to jazz aficionados as to clubbers. Its secret is high-quality live jazz gigs from Spain and around the world, followed by DJs spinning funk, soul, nu jazz, blues and innovative groove beats. There are also jam sessions at 11pm in jazz (Tuesday) and blues (Sunday).
The emphasis is on music from the American South and the crowd is classy and casual.
Café La Palma LIVE MUSIC, DANCE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 50 31; www.cafelapalma.com; Calle de la Palma 62; free-€15; h5pm-3am Sun, Wed & Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat; mNoviciado)
It’s amazing how much variety Café La Palma has packed into its labyrinth of rooms. Live shows featuring hot local bands are held at the back, while DJs mix it up at the front.
3Parque del Oeste & Northern Madrid
oEstadio Santiago Bernabéu FOOTBALL
(%902 324324; www.realmadrid.com; Avenida de Concha Espina 1; tickets from €40; mSantiago Bernabéu)
Watching Real Madrid play is one of football’s greatest experiences, but tickets are difficult to find. They can be purchased online, by phone or in person from the ticket office at Gate 42 on Av de Concha Espina; turn up early in the week before a scheduled game. Numerous online ticketing agencies also sell tickets. Otherwise, you’ll need to take a risk with scalpers.
The football season runs from September (or the last weekend in August) until May, with a two-week break just before Christmas until early in the New Year.
Sala Clamores LIVE MUSIC
(%91 445 79 38; www.clamores.es; Calle de Alburquerque 14; admission free-€15; h6.30pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 5.30am Fri & Sat; mBilbao)
Clamores is a one-time classic jazz cafe that has morphed into one of the most diverse live music stages in Madrid. Jazz is still a staple, but flamenco, blues, world music, singer-songwriters, pop and rock all make regular appearances. Live shows can begin as early as 7pm on weekends but sometimes really only get going after 1am.
7Shopping
Our favourite aspect of shopping in Madrid is the city’s small boutiques and quirky shops. Often run by the same families for generations, they counter the over commercialisation of mass-produced Spanish culture with everything from fashions to old-style ceramics to rope-soled espadrilles or gourmet Spanish food and wine.
7Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid
oAntigua Casa Talavera CERAMICS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 547 34 17; www.antiguacasatalavera.com; Calle de Isabel la Católica 2; h10am-1.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat; mSanto Domingo)
The extraordinary tiled facade of this wonderful old shop conceals an Aladdin’s cave of ceramics from all over Spain. This is not the mass-produced stuff aimed at a tourist market, but instead comes from the small family potters of Andalucía and Toledo, ranging from the decorative (tiles) to the useful (plates, jugs and other kitchen items). The elderly couple who run the place are delightful.
oEl Arco Artesanía ARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 26 80; www.artesaniaelarco.com; Plaza Mayor 9; h11am-10pm; mSol, La Latina)
This original shop in the southwestern corner of Plaza Mayor sells an outstanding array of homemade designer souvenirs, from stone, ceramic and glass work to jewellery and home fittings. The papier-mâché figures are gorgeous, but there’s so much else here to turn your head. It sometimes closes earlier in the depths of winter.
Maty FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 32 91; www.maty.es; Calle del Maestro Victoria 2; h10am-1.45pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Sat, 11am-2.30pm & 4.30-8pm 1st Sun of month; mSol)
Wandering around central Madrid, it’s easy to imagine that flamenco outfits have been reduced to imitation dresses sold as souvenirs to tourists. That’s why places like Maty matter. Here you’ll find dresses, shoes and all the accessories that go with the genre, with sizes for children and adults. These are the real deal, with prices to match, but they make brilliant gifts.
Casa Hernanz SHOES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 54 50; www.alpargateriahernanz.com; Calle de Toledo 18; h9am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mLa Latina, Sol)
Comfy, rope-soled alpargatas (espadrilles), Spain’s traditional summer footwear, are worn by everyone from the king of Spain down. You can buy your own pair at this humble workshop, which has been hand-making the shoes for five generations; you can even get them made to order. Prices range from €6 to €40 and queues form whenever the weather starts to warm up.
Atlético de Madrid Store SPORTS & OUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %902 260403; www.en.atleticodemadrid.com/shop; Gran Vía 47; h10am-9.30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; mSanto Domingo)
Atlético de Madrid has something of a cult following in the city and has enjoyed considerable footballing success in recent years. Its downtown store has all the club’s merchandise. In theory you can also buy tickets to games here, but most matches are sold out before you’ll get a chance.
Así TOYS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 97 55; www.tiendas-asi.com; Calle del Arenal 20; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3.30pm & 4.30-8pm Sun; mÓpera)
Beautifully crafted baby dolls make a lovely gift or souvenir of your little one’s visit to the city. These are the real deal, not mass-produced, and there are some fine baby’s outfits to go with them.
La Madrileña FOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 34 36; www.fiambreslamadrilena.com; Calle del Arenal 18; h9.30am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mSol)
La Madrileña has been serving its customers ham, cured meats and sausages since 1909. Its white sausages are perfect for the griddle, or you can try the sobrasada – a pâté made from ground pork and paprika. It’s delectable spread on a piece of baguette. Other specialities are the conservas – high-quality, artisan fish, legumes and vegetables in tins or jars.
Sombrerería Medrano FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 42 34; www.sombrereriamedrano.com; Calle Imperial 12; h10am-2.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mSol)
They’ve been making hats at this place since 1832, and while concessions have been made to modern fashions, the look here is reassuringly a classic one. It’s a marvellous old shop-workshop where the quality is unimpeachable. It does hats and gloves for men, women and children.
Gourmet Experience FOOD & DRINKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 379 80 00; www.elcorteingles.es; 9th fl, Plaza del Callao 9; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat; mCallao)
On a winning perch high above Plaza del Callao and with stunning views down Gran Vía, this food court has a fabulous store for foodies looking for Spanish products, including cheeses, wines, cured meats and Spanish craft beers.
El Jardín del Convento FOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 541 22 99; www.eljardindelconvento.net; Calle del Cordón 1; h11am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun; mÓpera)
In a quiet lane just south of Plaza de la Villa, this appealing little shop sells homemade sweets baked by nuns in abbeys, convents and monasteries all across Spain.
El Flamenco Vive FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 547 39 17; www.elflamencovive.es; Calle Conde de Lemos 7; h10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mÓpera)
This temple to flamenco has it all, from guitars and songbooks to well-priced CDs, polka-dotted dancing costumes, shoes, colourful plastic jewellery and literature about flamenco. It’s the sort of place that will appeal as much to curious first-timers as to serious students of the art. It also organises classes in flamenco guitar.
7La Latina & Lavapiés
oBotería Julio Rodríguez ARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 66 29; www.boteriajuliorodriguez.es; Calle del Águila 12; h9.30am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat; mLa Latina)
One of the last makers of traditional Spanish wineskins left in Madrid, Botería Julio Rodríguez is like a window on a fast-disappearing world. They make a great gift and, as you’d expect, they’re in a different league from the cheap wineskins found in souvenir shops across downtown Madrid.
oHelena Rohner JEWELLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 79 06; www.helenarohner.com.es; Calle del Almendro 4; h9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-2.30pm & 3.30-8pm Sat, noon-3pm Sun; mLa Latina, Tirso de Molina)
One of Europe’s most creative jewellery designers, Helena Rohner has a spacious boutique in La Latina. Working with silver, stone, porcelain, wood and Murano glass, she makes inventive pieces that are a regular feature of Paris fashion shows. In her own words, she seeks to recreate ‘the magic of Florence, the vitality of London and the luminosity of Madrid’.
El Rastro MARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores; h8am-3pm Sun; mLa Latina, Puerta de Toledo, Tirso de Molina)
Welcome to what is claimed to be Europe’s largest flea market. Antiques are also a major drawcard with a concentration of stores at Nuevas Galerías and Galerías Piquer; most shops open 10am to 2pm and 5pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday and not all open during El Rastro.
Aceitunas Jiménez FOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 46 23; Plaza del General Vara del Rey 14; h10.30am-2.30pm & 3.30-8pm Mon-Thu, 10.30am-2.30pm Fri & Sat, 10.30am-3pm Sun; mLa Latina)
An institution on a Sunday stroll in El Rastro, this tiny shop serves up pickled olives in plastic cups and in all manner of varieties, as well as aubergines, garlic and anything else they’ve decided to soak in lashings of oil and/or vinegar.
De Piedra JEWELLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 96 20; www.depiedracreaciones.com; Calle de la Ruda 19; h11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun; mLa Latina)
Necklaces, earrings, bracelets and home decorations made by a local design team fill this lovely showroom. Silver and semiprecious stones are the mainstays.
7Sol, Santa Ana & Huertas
Casa de Diego FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 66 43; www.casadediego.com; Plaza de la Puerta del Sol 12; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; mSol)
This classic shop has been around since 1858, making, selling and repairing Spanish fans, shawls, umbrellas and canes. Service is old style and occasionally grumpy, but the fans are works of antique art. There’s another branch (MAP; %91 531 02 23; www.casadediego.com; Calle del los Mesoneros Romanos 4; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4.45-8pm Mon-Sat; mCallao, Sol) nearby.
Licores Cabello WINE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 60 88; Calle de Echegaray 19; h10am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-Sat; mSevilla, Antón Martín)
All wine shops should be like this one. This family-run corner shop really knows its wines and the interior has scarcely changed since 1913, with wooden shelves and even a faded ceiling fresco. There are fine wines in abundance (mostly Spanish, and a few foreign bottles), with some 500 wine labels on display or tucked away out the back.
The Corner Shop CLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 737 58 02; www.thecornershop.es; Calle de las Huertas 17; h10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9.30pm Sat & Sun; mAntón Martín)
This fine Huertas shop does a carefully curated collection of men’s and women’s fashions, with brand names like Scotch Soda, Blue Hole, Andy and Lucy and many others. Regardless of brands, it’s always worth stopping by to check its casual street wear with a touch of style and a hint of the offbeat.
Justo Algaba GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 523 37 17; www.justoalgaba.com; Calle de la Paz 4; h10.30am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sat; mSol)
This is where Spain’s toreros (bullfighters) come to have their traje de luces (suit of lights, the traditional bullfighting suit) made in all its intricate excess.
Tienda Real Madrid SPORTS & OUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 755 45 38; www.realmadrid.com; Gran Vía 31; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; mGran Vía, Callao)
The Real Madrid club shop sells replica shirts, posters, caps and just about everything else under the sun to which it could attach a club logo. In the centre of town there’s a smaller branch (Tienda Real Madrid; MAP; %91 521 79 50; www.realmadrid.com; Calle del Carmen 3; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; mSol) and, in the city’s north, the stadium branch.
Santarrufina RELIGIOUS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 23 83; www.santarrufina.com; Calle de la Paz 4; h10am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mSol)
This gilded outpost of Spanish Catholicism has to be seen to be believed. Churches, priests and monasteries are some of the patrons of this overwhelming three-storey shop full of everything from simple rosaries to imposing statues of saints and even a litter used to carry the Virgin in processions.
7El Retiro & the Art Museums
Librería la Central BOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 787 87 82; www.lacentral.com/museoreinasofia; Ronda de Atocha 2; h10am-9pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun; mAtocha)
Part of the stunning extension to Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, La Central is perhaps Madrid’s best gallery bookshop, with a range of posters, postcards and artistic stationery items as well as extensive sections on contemporary art, design, architecture and photography. Most, but by no means all, books are in Spanish.
Cuesta de Claudio Moyano Bookstalls BOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Cuesta de Claudio Moyano; hhours vary; mAtocha)
Madrid’s answer to the booksellers that line the Seine in Paris, these secondhand bookstalls are an enduring Madrid landmark. Most titles are in Spanish, but there’s a handful of offerings in other languages. Opening hours vary from stall to stall, and some of the stalls close at lunchtime.
7Salamanca
oAgatha Ruiz de la Prada FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 319 05 01; www.agatharuizdelaprada.com; Calle de Serrano 27; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mSerrano)
This boutique has to be seen to be believed, with pinks, yellows and oranges everywhere you turn. It’s fun and exuberant, but not just for kids. It also has serious and highly original fashion. Agatha Ruiz de la Prada is one of the enduring icons of la movida madrileña, Madrid’s 1980s outpouring of creativity.
Bombonerías Santa FOOD & DRINKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 576 76 25; www.bombonerias-santa.com; Calle de Serrano 56; h10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon, 10am-8.30pm Tue-Sat, shorter hours Jul & Aug; mSerrano)
If your style is as refined as your palate, the exquisite chocolates in this tiny shop will satisfy. The packaging is every bit as pretty as the bombones (chocolates) within, but they’re not cheap – count on paying around €60 per kilo of chocolate.
Oriol Balaguer FOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 401 64 63; www.oriolbalaguer.com; Calle de José Ortega y Gasset 44; h9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8.30pm Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun; mNúñez de Balboa)
Catalan pastry chef Oriol Balaguer has a formidable CV – he’s worked in the kitchens of Ferran Adrià in Catalonia, won the prize for the World’s Best Dessert (the ‘Seven Textures of Chocolate’) and his croissants once won the title of Spain’s best. His chocolate boutique is presented like a small art gallery that is dedicated to exquisite chocolate collections and cakes.
Mantequería Bravo FOOD & DRINKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 575 80 72; www.bravo1931.com; Calle de Ayala 24; h9.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat; mSerrano)
Behind the attractive old facade lies a connoisseur’s paradise, filled with local cheeses, sausages, wines and coffees. The products here are great for a gift, but everything’s so good that you won’t want to share. Not that long ago, Mantequería Bravo won the prize for Madrid’s best gourmet food shop or delicatessen.
Manolo Blahnik SHOES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 575 96 48; www.manoloblahnik.com; Calle de Serrano 58; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat; mSerrano)
Nothing to wear to the Oscars? Do what many Hollywood celebrities do and head for Manolo Blahnik. The showroom is exclusive and each shoe is displayed like a work of art.
Ekseption & Eks FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 361 97 76; www.ekseption.es; Calle de Velázquez 28; h10.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mVelázquez)
This elegant showroom store consistently leads the way with the latest trends, spanning catwalk designs alongside a look that is more informal, though always sophisticated. The unifying theme is urban chic and its list of designer brands includes Balenciaga, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs and Dries van Noten.
Next door, Eks, which was being renovated when we visited, is the preserve of younger, more casual lines, including a fantastic selection of jeans.
Victoria Beckham was a regular customer here in her Madrid days; make of that what you will.
Camper SHOES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 578 25 60; www.camper.com; Calle de Serrano 24; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun; mSerrano)
Spanish fashion is not all haute couture, and this world-famous cool and quirky shoe brand from Mallorca offers bowling-shoe chic with colourful, fun designs that are all about quality coupled with comfort. There are other outlets that are located throughout the city, including a Malasaña shop (MAP; %91 531 23 47; www.camper.com; Calle de Fuencarral 42; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; mGran Vía, Tribunal); check the website for locations.
Purificación García FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 435 80 13; www.purificaciongarcia.com; Calle de Serrano 28; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mSerrano)
Fashions may come and go but Puri consistently manages to keep ahead of the pack. Her signature style for men and women is elegant and mature designs that are just as at home in the workplace as at a wedding.
7Malasaña & Chueca
Loewe FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 68 15; www.loewe.com; Gran Vía 8; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; mGran Vía)
Born in 1846 in Madrid, Loewe is arguably Spain’s signature line in high-end fashion and its landmark store on Gran Vía is one of the most famous and elegant stores in the capital. Classy handbags and accessories are the mainstays. Prices can be jaw-droppingly high, but it’s worth stopping by, even if you don’t plan to buy.
There’s another branch in Salamanca (MAP; %91 426 35 88; www.loewe.com; Calle de Serrano 26 & 34; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mSerrano).
Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero FOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 308 05 05; www.pco.es; Calle de Mejía Lequerica 1; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Sep-Jun, 9am-3pm Mon-Sat Jul; mAlonso Martínez)
For picking up some of the country’s olive-oil varieties (Spain is the world’s largest producer), Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero is perfect. With examples of the extra-virgin variety from all over Spain, you could spend ages agonising over the choices. Staff know their oil and are happy to help out if you speak a little Spanish.
El Moderno HOMEWARES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 348 31 94; www.facebook.com/elmodernoconceptstore; Calle de la Corredera de San Pablo 19; h11am-9pm Sun-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat; mCallao, Gran Vía)
This concept store down the Gran Vía end of Malasaña is the epitome of style, although it’s less Malasaña retro than a slick new-Madrid look. Designer homewares, quirky gifts and shapely furnishings, all laid out in an open gallery space allow you to indulge your inner interior designer.
Xoan Viqueira FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 173 70 29; www.xoanviqueira.com; Calle de Gravina 22; h11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat; mChueca)
We love the playfulness of this designer Chueca store where screenprinting artist Xoan Viqueira throws his creativity at everything from alpargatas (traditional Spanish rope-soled shoes) to clothing and homewares. Bearded gay men are recurring motifs, but it’s fun and mischeivous rather than in your face.
Sportivo CLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 542 56 61; www.sportivostore.com; Calle del Conde Duque 20; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; mPlaza de España)
It’s rare to find a Madrid store that focuses solely on men’s fashions, but this place bucks the trend. Brands like Carven, YMC and Commune of Paris draw an appreciative crowd of metrosexuals, lumbersexuals and any fellow who appreciates style.
Monkey Garage FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 137 73 98; www.facebook.com/monkeygarage11; Calle de la Santa Brigida 11; hnoon-9.30pm Mon-Thu, 12.30-10pm Fri & Sat; mTribunal)
Inhabiting an old mechanics workshop, this edgy, stylish shop sells clean-lined Scandivanian fashions, designer jewellery and modern artworks. It’s a winning mix in an artfully converted space.
Flamingos Vintage Kilo VINTAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %649 877198; www.vintagekilo.com; Calle del Espíritu Santo 1; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat; mTribunal)
Flamingos sells vintage clothing for men and women, including a selection of old denim, cowboy boots, leather jackets, Hawaiian shirts and more. Some articles have a set price, while others are sold by the kilo. The first of its kind in Madrid, it’s a great place to browse for the cool and unexpected from the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s.
Malababa FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 203 59 51; www.malababa.com; Calle de Santa Teresa 5; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; mAlonso Martínez)
This corner of Chueca is one of Madrid’s happiest hunting grounds for the style-conscious shopper who favours individual boutiques with personality above larger stores. One such place, light-filled Malababa features classy Spanish-made accessories, including jewellery, handbags, shoes, purses and belts, all beautifully displayed.
Cacao Sampaka FOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 319 58 40; www.cacaosampaka.com; Calle de Orellana 4; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; mAlonso Martínez)
If you thought chocolate was about fruit ’n’ nut, think again. This gourmet chocolate shop is a chocoholic’s dream, with more combinations to go with humble cocoa than you ever imagined possible. There’s also a cafe that’s good for lunch.
Lurdes Bergada FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 99 58; www.lurdesbergada.es; Calle del Conde de Xiquena 8; h10am-2.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mChueca)
Lurdes Bergada and Syngman Cucala, a mother-and-son designer team from Barcelona, offer classy and original men’s and women’s fashions using neutral colours and all-natural fibres. They’ve developed something of a cult following and it’s difficult to leave without finding something that you just have to have. There’s another branch in Malasaña (MAP; %91 521 88 18; www.lurdesbergada.es; Calle de Fuencarral 70; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mTribunal).
Poncelet FOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 308 02 21; www.poncelet.es; Calle de Argensola 27; h10.30am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Thu, 10.30am-8.30pm Fri & Sat; mAlonso Martínez)
With 80 Spanish and 240 European cheese varieties, this fine cheese shop is the best of its kind in Madrid. The range is outstanding and the staff really know their cheese.
Reserva y Cata WINE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 319 04 01; www.reservaycata.com; Calle del Conde de Xiquena 13; h11am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat; mColón, Chueca)
This old-style shop stocks an excellent range of local wines, and the knowledgable staff can help you pick out a great one for your next dinner party or a gift for a friend back home. It specialises in quality Spanish wines that you just don’t find in El Corte Inglés department store. There’s often a bottle open so you can try before you buy.
Snapo FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 017 16 72; www.snaposhoponline.com; Calle del Espíritu Santo 6; h11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mTribunal)
Snapo is rebellious Malasaña to its core, thumbing its nose at the niceties of fashion respectability – hardly surprising given that one of its lines of clothing is called Fucking Bastardz Inc. It does jeans, caps and jackets, but its T-shirts are the Snapo trademark; there are even kids’ T-shirts for really cool parents.
Down through the years, we’ve seen everything from a mocked-up cover of ‘National Pornographic’ to Pope John Paul II with fist raised and ‘Vatican 666’ emblazoned across the front. Need we say more?
Retro City CLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle de Corredera Alta de San Pablo 4; hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm Mon-Sat; mTribunal)
Malasaña down to its Dr Martens, Retro City lives for the colourful ’70s and ’80s and proclaims its philosophy to be all about ‘vintage for the masses’. Whereas other such stores in the barrio have gone for an angry, thumb-your-nose-at-society aesthetic, Retro City just looks back with nostalgia.
7Parque del Oeste & Northern Madrid
Papelería Salazar BOOKS, STATIONERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 446 18 48; www.papeleriasalazar.es; Calle de Luchana 7-9; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat; mBilbao)
Opened in 1905, Papelería Salazar is Madrid’s oldest stationery store and is now run by the fourth generation of the Salazar family. It’s a treasure trove that combines items of interest only to locals (old-style Spanish bookplates, First Communion invitations) with useful items like Faber-Castell pens and pencils, maps, notebooks and drawing supplies.
It’s a priceless relic of the kind that is slowly disappearing in Madrid.
Relojería Santolaya ANTIQUES
(%91 447 25 64; www.relojeriasantolaya.com; Calle Murillo 8; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri; mQuevedo, Iglesia, Bilbao)
Founded in 1867, this old clock repairer just off Plaza de Olavide is the official watch repairer to Spain’s royalty and heritage properties. There’s not much for sale here, but stop by the tiny shopfront and workshop to admire the dying art of timepiece repairs, with not a digital watch in sight.
Bazar Matey GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(%91 446 93 11; www.matey.com; Calle de la Santísima Trinidad 1; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat, closed Sat afternoons Jul & Aug; mIglesia, Quevedo)
Bazar Matey is a wonderful store catering to collectors of model trains, aeroplanes and cars, and all sorts of accessories. The items here are the real deal, with near-perfect models of everything from old Renfe trains to obscure international airlines. Prices can be sky high, but that doesn’t deter the legions of collectors who stream in from all over Madrid on Saturday.
Calzados Cantero SHOES
(%91 447 07 35; Plaza de Olavide 12; h9.45am-2pm & 4.45-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.45am-2pm Sat; mIglesia)
A charming old-world shoe store, Calzados Cantero sells a range of shoes at rock-bottom prices. But it’s most famous for its rope-soled alpargatas (espadrilles), which start from €8. This is a barrio classic, the sort of store to which parents bring their children as their own parents did a generation before.
Tienda Real Madrid SPORTS & OUTDOORS
(%91 458 72 59; www.realmadrid.com; Gate 55, Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, Av de Concha Espina 1; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7.30pm Sun; mSantiago Bernabéu)
The club shop of Real Madrid sells the full gamut of football memorabilia. From the shop window, you can see down onto the stadium itself.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Madrid is generally safe, but as in any large European city, keep an eye on your belongings and exercise common sense.
AEl Rastro, around the Museo del Prado and the metro are favourite pickpocketing haunts, as are any areas where tourists congregate in large numbers.
AAvoid park areas (such as the Parque del Buen Retiro) after dark.
AKeep a close eye on your taxi’s meter and try to keep track of the route to make sure you’re not being taken for a ride.
EMERGENCY
To report thefts or other crime-related matters, your best bet is the Servicio de Atención al Turista Extranjero (Foreign Tourist Assistance Service; %91 548 85 37, 91 548 80 08; www.esmadrid.com/informacion-turistica/sate; Calle de Leganitos 19; h9am-midnight; mPlaza de España, Santo Domingo), which is housed in the central comisaría (police station) of the National Police. Here you’ll find specially trained officers working alongside representatives from the Tourism Ministry. They can also assist in cancelling credit cards, as well as contacting your embassy or your family.
There’s also a general number (902 102112; 24-hour English and Spanish, 8am to midnight other languages) for reporting crimes.
There’s a comisaría (%913 22 10 21; Calle de las Huertas 76; mAntón Martín) down the bottom end of Huertas, near the Paseo del Prado.
| Country Code | %34 |
| International access code | %00 |
| Ambulance | %061 |
| EU Standard Emergency Number | %112 |
| Fire Brigade (Bomberos) | %080 |
| Local Police (Policía Municipal) | %092 |
| Military Police (Guardia Civil) For traffic accidents. | %062 |
| Policía Nacional | %091 |
| Teléfono de la Víctima, hotline for victims of racial or sexual violence. | %902 180995 |
INTERNET ACCESS
Most midrange and top-end hotels, as well as some cafes and restaurants, have wi-fi access. Otherwise, check out www.madridmemata.es/madrid-wifi for a reasonable list of the city’s wi-fi hot spots.
Most of Madrid’s internet cafes have fallen by the wayside. You’ll find plenty of small locutorios (small shops selling phonecards and cheap phone calls) all over the city and many have a few computers out the back.
MEDICAL SERVICES
All foreigners have the same right as Spaniards to emergency medical treatment in a public hospital. EU citizens are entitled to the full range of health-care services in public hospitals free of charge, but you’ll need to present your European Health Insurance Card (EHIC); enquire at your national health service before leaving home. Even if you have no insurance, you’ll be treated in an emergency, with costs in the public system ranging from free to €150 for a basic consultation. Non-EU citizens have to pay for anything other than emergency treatment – one good reason among many to have a travel-insurance policy. If you have a specific health complaint, obtain the necessary information and referrals for treatment before leaving home.
Unidad Medica (Anglo American; %91 435 18 23, 24hr 916 56 90 57; www.unidadmedica.com; Calle del Conde de Aranda 1; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Sep-Jul, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Aug; mRetiro) A private clinic with a wide range of specialisations and where all doctors speak Spanish and English, with some also speaking French and German. Each consultation costs around €125.
Hospital General Gregorio Marañón (%91 586 80 00; Calle del Doctor Esquerdo 46; mSáinz de Baranda, O’Donnell, Ibiza) One of the city’s main (and more central) hospitals.
POST
Correos, the national postal service, is generally reliable, if a little slow at times. It has its main post office (MAP; %91 523 06 94; www.correos.es; Paseo del Prado 1; h8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; mBanco de España) in the ornate Palacio de Comunicaciones on Plaza de la Cibeles.
Sellos (stamps) are sold at most estancos (tobacconists’ shops, with Tabacos in yellow letters on a maroon background), as well as post offices.
A postcard or letter weighing up to 20g costs €1.25 from Spain to other European countries, and €1.35 to the rest of the world. For a full list of prices for certificado (certified) and urgente (express post), go to www.correos.es and click on ‘Tarifas’.
Delivery times are erratic but ordinary mail to other Western European countries can take up to a week; to North America up to 10 days; and to Australia or New Zealand anywhere between one and three weeks.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Centro de Turismo de Madrid (%010, 91 578 78 10; www.esmadrid.com; Plaza Mayor 27; h9.30am-8.30pm; mSol) The Madrid government’s Centro de Turismo is terrific. Housed in the Real Casa de la Panadería on the north side of the Plaza Mayor, it offers free downloads of the metro map to your mobile; staff are helpful.
Centro de Turismo Colón (MAP; www.esmadrid.com; Plaza de Colón 1; h9.30am-8.30pm; mColón) A small, subterranean tourist office, accessible via the underground stairs on the corner of Calle de Goya and the Paseo de la Castellana.
Punto de Información Turística Plaza de Callao (MAP; www.esmadrid.com; Plaza de Callao; h9.30am-8.30pm; mCallao)
Punto de Información Turística CentroCentro (MAP; %91 578 78 10; www.esmadrid.com; Plaza de la Cibeles 1; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun; mBanco de España)
Punto de Información Turística del Paseo del Prade (MAP; %91 578 78 10; www.esmadrid.com; Plaza de Neptuno; h9.30am-8.30pm; mAtocha)
Punto de Información Turística Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas T2 (www.esmadrid.com; between Salas 5 & 6; h9am-8pm)
Punto de Información Turística Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas T4 (www.esmadrid.com; Salas 10 & 11; h9am-8pm)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Madrid’s Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas airport (%902 404704; www.aena.es; mAeropuerto T1, T2 & T3, Aeropuerto T4) lies 15km northeast of the city, and it’s Europe’s sixth-busiest hub, with almost 50 million passengers passing through here every year.
Barajas has four terminals. Terminal 4 (T4) deals mainly with flights of Iberia and its partners, while the remainder leave from the conjoined T1, T2 and (rarely) T3. To match your airline with a terminal, visit the Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas section of www.aena.es and click on ‘Airlines’.
Although all airlines conduct check-in (facturación) at the airport’s departure areas, some also allow check-in at the Nuevos Ministerios metro stop and transport interchange in Madrid itself – ask your airline.
There are car rental services, ATMs, money-exchange bureaus, pharmacies, tourist offices, left-luggage offices and parking services at T1, T2 and T4.
BUS
Estación Sur de Autobuses (%91 468 42 00; Calle de Méndez Álvaro 83; mMéndez Álvaro), just south of the M30 ring road, is the city’s principal bus station. It serves most destinations to the south and many in other parts of the country. Most bus companies have a ticket office here, even if their buses depart from elsewhere.
Northwest of the centre and connected to lines 1 and 3 of the metro, the subterranean Intercambiador de Autobuses de Moncloa (Plaza de la Moncloa; mMoncloa) sends buses out to the surrounding villages and satellite suburbs that lie north and west of the city. Major bus companies include:
ALSA (%902 422242; www.alsa.es) One of the largest Spanish companies with many services throughout Spain. Most depart from Estación Sur with occasional services from T4 of Madrid’s airport and other stations around town.
Avanzabus (%902 020052; www.avanzabus.com) Services to Extremadura (eg Cáceres)
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Madrid is surrounded by two main ring roads, the outermost M40 and the inner M30; there are also two partial ring roads, the M45 and the more distant M50. The R5 and R3 are part of a series of toll roads built to ease traffic jams. The big-name car-rental agencies have offices all over Madrid and offices at the airport, and some have branches at Atocha and Chamartín train stations.
TRAIN
Madrid is served by two main train stations. The bigger of the two is Puerta de Atocha (www.renfe.es; Av de la Ciudad de Barcelona; mAtocha Renfe), at the southern end of the city centre, while Chamartín (%902 432343; Paseo de la Castellana; mChamartín) lies in the north of the city. The bulk of trains for Spanish destinations depart from Atocha, especially those going south. International services arrive at and leave from Chamartín. For bookings, contact Renfe.
High-speed Tren de Alta Velocidad Española (AVE) services connect Madrid with Albacete, Barcelona, Burgos, Cádiz, Córdoba, Cuenca, Huesca, León, Lerida, Málaga, Palencia, Salamanca, Santiago de Compostela, Seville, Valencia, Valladolid, Zamora and Zaragoza. In coming years, Madrid–Bilbao should also start up, and travel times to Galicia should fall. The same goes for Madrid–Granada and Madrid–Badajoz.
8Getting Around
Madrid has an excellent public transport network. The most convenient way of getting around is via the metro, whose 13 lines criss-cross the city; no matter where you find yourself you’re never far from a metro station. The bus network is equally extensive and operates under the same ticketing system, although the sheer number of routes (around 200!) makes it more difficult for first-time visitors to master. Taxis in Madrid are plentiful and relatively cheap by European standards.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Bus
The Exprés Aeropuerto (Airport Express; www.emtmadrid.es; per person €5; h24hr; W) runs between Puerta de Atocha train station and the airport. From 11.30pm until 6am, departures are from the Plaza de Cibeles, not the train station. Departures take place every 13 to 20 minutes from the station or at night-time every 35 minutes from Plaza de Cibeles.
Alternatively, from T1, T2 and T3 take bus 200 to/from the Intercambiador de Avenida de América (mAv de América), the transport interchange on Avenida de América. A single ticket costs €4.50 including the €3 airport supplement. The first departures from the airport are at 5.10am (T1, T2 and T3). The last scheduled service from the airport is 11.30pm; buses leave every 12 to 20 minutes.
A free bus service connects all four airport terminals.
Metro
One of the easiest ways into town from the airport is line 8 of the metro to the Nuevos Ministerios transport interchange, which connects with lines 10 and 6 and the local overground cercanías (local trains serving suburbs and nearby towns). It operates from 6.05am to 1.30am. A single ticket costs €4.50 including the €3 airport supplement. If you’re charging your public transport card with a 10-ride Metrobús ticket (€12.20), you’ll need to top it up with the €3 supplement if you’re travelling to/from the airport. The journey to Nuevos Ministerios takes around 15 minutes, around 25 minutes from T4.
Minibus
AeroCITY (%91 747 75 70, 902 151654; www.aerocity.com; per person from €18, express service per minibus from €35; h24hr) is a private minibus service that takes you door-to-door between central Madrid and the airport (T1 in front of Arrivals Gate 2, T2 between gates 5 and 6, and T4 arrivals hall). You can reserve a seat or the entire minibus; the latter operates like a taxi. Book by phone or online.
Taxi
A taxi to the centre (around 30 minutes, depending on traffic; 35 to 40 minutes from T4) costs a fixed €30 for anywhere inside the M30 motorway (which includes all of downtown Madrid). There’s a minimum €20, even if you’re only going to an airport hotel.
BICYCLE
Lots of people zip around town on motos (mopeds) and bike lanes are increasingly a part of the inner city’s thoroughfares. Be aware, however, that the latter are relatively new and few drivers are accustomed to keeping an eye out for cyclists.
You can transport your bicycle on the metro all day on Saturday and Sunday, and at any time from Monday to Friday except 7.30am to 9.30am, 2pm to 4pm and 6pm to 8pm. You can also take your bike aboard cercanías (local trains to suburbs) at any time.
BUS
Buses operated by Empresa Municipal de Transportes de Madrid (EMT; %902 507850; www.emtmadrid.es) travel along most city routes regularly between about 6.30am and 11.30pm. Twenty-six night-bus búhos (owls) routes operate from 11.45pm to 5.30am, with all routes originating in Plaza de la Cibeles.
The Intercambiador de Autobuses de Moncloa has buses to many villages around the Comunidad de Madrid.
METRO
Madrid’s modern metro (www.metromadrid.es), Europe’s second largest, is a fast, efficient and safe way to navigate Madrid, and generally easier than getting to grips with bus routes. There are 11 colour-coded lines in central Madrid, in addition to the modern southern suburban MetroSur system, as well as lines heading east to the population centres of Pozuelo and Boadilla del Monte. Colour maps showing the metro system are available from any metro station or online. The metro operates from 6.05am to 1.30am.
TAXI
Daytime flagfall is, for example, €2.40 in Madrid, and up to €2.90 between 9pm and 7am, and on weekends and holidays. You then pay €1.05 to €1.20 per kilometre depending on the time of day. Several supplementary charges, usually posted inside the taxi, apply. These include: €5.50 to/from the airport (if you’re not paying the fixed rate); €3 from taxi ranks at train and bus stations; €3 to/from the Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I; and €6.70 on New Year’s Eve and Christmas Eve from 10pm to 6am. There’s no charge for luggage.
Among the 24-hour taxi services are Tele-Taxi (%91 371 21 31; www.tele-taxi.es; h24hr) and Radio-Teléfono Taxi (%91 547 82 00; www.radiotelefono-taxi.com; h24hr).
A green light on the roof means the taxi is libre (available). Usually a sign like this is also placed in the lower passenger side of the windscreen.
Tipping taxi drivers is not common practice, though rounding fares up to the nearest euro or two doesn’t hurt.
METRO & BUS TICKETS
When travelling on Madrid’s metro and bus services, you have three options when it comes to tickets, although only two really work for visitors.
Tarjeta Multi
As of 1 January 2018, nonresidents travelling on the city’s public transport system require a Tarjeta Multi, a rechargeable card that, unlike the resident’s version, is not tied to your identity (ie neither your name nor your photo appears on the card). They can be purchased at machines in all metro stations, estancos (tobacconists) and other authorised sales points.
Like London’s Oyster Card, you top up your account at machines in all metro stations and estancos, and touch-on and touch-off every time you travel. Options include 10 rides (bus and metro) for €12.20 or a single-journey option for €1.50.
Tarjeta Turística
The handy Tarjeta Turística (Tourist Pass) allows for unlimited travel on public transport across the Comunidad de Madrid (Community of Madrid) for tourists. You’ll need to present your passport or national identity card and tickets can be purchased at all metro stations. Passes are available for 1/2/3/5/7 days for €8.40/14.20/18.40/26.80/35.40.
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