Toledo & Castilla–La Mancha
Toledo
Talavera de la Reina
Oropesa
South Castilla–La Mancha
Consuegra
Campo de Criptana
Almagro
Parque Nacional Tablas de Daimiel
Alcalá del Júcar
Belmonte
El Toboso
Parque Natural de las Lagunas de Ruidera
Sierra de Alcaraz
Northeast Castilla–La Mancha
Cuenca
Pastrana
Sigüenza
Atienza
Alarcón
Imón
In Search of Don Quijote
Toledo & Castilla–La Mancha
Why Go?
Castilla-La Mancha is one of Spain’s least-populated regions. Located on a windswept fertile plateau, the landscape is richly patterned, with undulating plains of rich henna-coloured earth, neatly striped and stippled with olive groves and grape vines, stretching to a horizon you never seem to reach. This is the land where Cervantes set the fictional journeys of Don Quijote with quixotic reminders everywhere: from the solitary windmills to the abundant (mostly ruined) castles.
The area’s best-known city is glorious Toledo, Spain’s spiritual capital, while Cuenca is another wondrous place, seemingly about to topple off its eagle’s-eyrie perch high above a gorge.
On a more sensory level, this is where saffron is grown and also the capital of Spain’s unrivalled Manchego cheese. The latter makes the perfect accompaniment to the local wines – La Mancha grows more vines than any other region worldwide.
When to Go
- Mar & Apr See Cuenca’s spine-tingling and atmospheric Semana Santa parades.
- Apr & May Enjoy the countryside’s colourful dazzle of wildflowers against a lush green landscape.
- Sep & Oct Hike across Castilla-La Mancha’s natural parks and picturesque villages.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Toledo & Castilla-La Mancha Highlights
1 Toledo Disentangling three medieval cultures in a tangle of narrow streets.
2 Atienza Hiking into the hilltop town of Atienza on a southern branch of the Camino de Santiago.
3 Consuegra Taking the Don Quijote shot of the windmills of Consuegra.
4 Alcalá del Júcar Kicking back with a beer at a riverside bar beneath the cascade of houses and a castle.
5 Cuenca Visiting the extraordinary hanging houses and rambling medieval core of Cuenca.
6 Almagro Marvelling at the handsome plaza and historic theatre in this enticing town.
7 Oropesa Being king or queen of the castle by staying in a parador.
8 Sigüenza Checking out the evocative medieval historic centre in the under-appreciated town of Sigüenza.
TOLEDO
POP 85,593 / ELEV 655M
Toledo is truly one of Spain’s most magnificent cities. Dramatically sited atop a gorge overlooking the Río Tajo, it was known as the ‘city of three cultures’ in the Middle Ages, a place where – legend has it – Christian, Muslim and Jewish communities peacefully coexisted. Unsurprisingly, rediscovering the vestiges of this unique cultural synthesis remains modern Toledo’s most compelling attraction. Horseshoe-arched mosques, Sephardic synagogues and one of Spain’s finest Gothic cathedrals cram into its dense historical core. But the layers go much deeper. Further sleuthing will reveal Visigothic and Roman roots. Toledo’s other forte is art, in particular the haunting canvases of El Greco, the influential, impossible-to-classify painter with whom the city is synonymous. Though it’s justifiably popular with day trippers, try to stay overnight to really appreciate the city in all its haunting glory.
Toledo
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
oCatedral de Toledo CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 
%925 22 22 41; www.catedralprimada.es; Plaza del Ayuntamiento; adult/child €12.50/free, incl Museo de Textiles y Orfebrería admission; 
h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun)
Toledo’s illustrious main church ranks among the top 10 cathedrals in Spain. An impressive example of medieval Gothic architecture, its enormous interior is full of the classic characteristics of the style, rose windows, flying buttresses, ribbed vaults and pointed arches among them. The cathedral’s sacristy is a veritable art gallery of old masters, with works by Velázquez, Goya and – of course – El Greco.
From the earliest days of the Visigothic occupation, the current site of the cathedral has been a centre of worship. During Muslim rule, it contained Toledo’s central mosque, converted into a church in 1085, but ultimately destroyed 140 years later. Dating from the 1220s and essentially a Gothic structure, the cathedral was rebuilt from scratch in a melting pot of styles, including Mudéjar and Renaissance. The Visigothic influence continues today in the unique celebration of the Mozarabic Rite, a 6th-century liturgy that was allowed to endure after Cardinal Cisneros put its legitimacy to the test by burning missals in a fire of faith; they survived more or less intact. The rite is celebrated in the Capilla Mozarabe at 9am Monday to Saturday, and at 9.45am on Sunday.
The high altar sits in the extravagant Capilla Mayor, the masterpiece of which is the retablo (altarpiece), with painted wooden sculptures depicting scenes from the lives of Christ and the Virgin Mary; it’s flanked by royal tombs. The oldest of the cathedral’s magnificent stained-glass pieces is the rose window above the Puerta del Reloj. Behind the main altar lies a mesmerising piece of 18th-century Churrigueresque (lavish baroque ornamentation), the Transparente, which is illuminated by a light well carved into the dome above.
In the centre of things, the coro (choir stall) is a feast of sculpture and carved wooden stalls. The 15th-century lower tier depicts the various stages of the conquest of Granada.
The tesoro, however, deals in treasure of the glittery kind. It’s dominated by the extraordinary Custodia de Arfe: with 18kg of pure gold and 183kg of silver, this 16th-century processional monstrance bristles with some 260 statuettes. Its big day out is the Feast of Corpus Christi, when it is paraded around Toledo’s streets.
Other noteworthy features include the sober cloister, off which is the 14th-century Capilla de San Blas, with Gothic tombs and stunning frescoes; the gilded Capilla de Reyes Nuevos; and the sala capitular (chapter house), with its remarkable 500-year-old artesonado (wooden Mudéjar ceiling) and portraits of all the archbishops of Toledo.
The highlight of all, however, is the sacristía (sacristy), which contains a gallery with paintings by masters such as El Greco, Zurbarán, Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael and Velázquez. It can be difficult to appreciate the packed-together, poorly lit artworks, but it’s a stunning assemblage in a small space. In an adjacent chamber, don’t miss the spectacular Moorish standard captured in the Battle of Salado in 1340.
An extra €3 gets you entrance to the upper level of the cloister, and the bell tower, which offers wonderful views over the centre of historic Toledo.
oAlcázar FORTRESS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Museo del Ejército; %925 22 30 38; Calle Alféreces Provisionales; adult/child €5/free, Sun free; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue)
At the highest point in the city looms the foreboding Alcázar. Rebuilt under Franco, it has been reopened as a vast military museum. The usual displays of uniforms and medals are here, but the best part is the exhaustive historical section, with an in-depth examination of the nation’s history in Spanish and English. The exhibition is epic in scale but like a well-run marathon, it’s worth the physical (and mental) investment.
Abd ar-Rahman III raised an al-qasr (fortress) here in the 10th century, which was thereafter altered by the Christians. Alonso Covarrubias rebuilt it as a royal residence for Carlos I, but the court moved to Madrid and the fortress eventually became a military academy. The Alcázar was heavily damaged during the siege of the garrison by loyalist militias at the start of the civil war in 1936. The soldiers’ dogged resistance, and the famous refusal of their commander, Moscardó, to give it up in exchange for his son’s life, made the Alcázar a powerful nationalist symbol.
The most macabre sight at the Alcazár is the recreation of Moscardó’s office wrecked with bullet holes; other highlights include the monumental central patio decorated with Habsburg coats of arms, and archaeological remains from Moorish times near the entrance.
oSinagoga del Tránsito SYNAGOGUE, MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 36 65; http://museosefardi.mcu.es; Calle Samuel Leví; adult/child €3/1.50, after 2pm Sat & all day Sun free; h9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat Mar-Oct, to 6pm Tue-Sat Nov-Feb, 10am-3pm Sun year-round)
This magnificent synagogue was built in 1355 by special permission from Pedro I. The synagogue now houses the Museo Sefardí. The vast main prayer hall has been expertly restored and the Mudéjar decoration and intricately carved pine ceiling are striking. Exhibits provide an insight into the history of Jewish culture in Spain, and include archaeological finds, a memorial garden, costumes and ceremonial artefacts.
Toledo’s former judería (Jewish quarter) was once home to 10 synagogues and comprised some 10% of the walled city’s area. After the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492, the synagogue was variously used as a priory, hermitage and military barracks.
Museo Sefardí MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 36 65; http://museosefardi.mcu.es; Sinagoga del Tránsito, Calle Samuel Leví; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)
Housed in the magnificent Sinagoga del Tránsito, this museum provides a rare and important glance into erstwhile Sephardic culture in Spain. Entry is included with synagogue admission.
Museo de Santa Cruz MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 10 36; Calle de Cervantes 3; adult/child €5/free; h9.45am-6.15pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun)
It’s hard to imagine that this 16th-century building was once a hospital. If only modern hospitals were equipped with the kind of ornate plateresque portico that welcomes you to this beautiful arts and ceramics museum. The pièce de résistance is the huge ground-floor gallery laid out in the shape of a cross. The various art and sculpture exhibits are backed up by interesting explanatory boards that place all the pieces into their historical context.
Museo del Greco MUSEUM, GALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 44 05; www.mecd.gob.es/mgreco; Paseo del Tránsito; adult/child €3/1.50, from 2pm Sat & all day Sun free; h9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat Mar-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb, 10am-3pm Sun)
In the early 20th century, an aristocrat bought what he thought was El Greco’s house and did a meritorious job of returning it to period style. He was wrong – El Greco never lived here – but the museum remains. As well as the house itself, there are fascinating excavated cellars from a Jewish-quarter palace and a good selection of paintings, including a Zurbarán, a set of the apostles by El Greco and works by his son and followers.
Museo de Textiles y Orfebrería MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Tapestry Museum; %925 22 22 41; Plaza del Colegio de Infantes 11; admission €2, incl in cathedral admission; h10am-6pm)
Opened in 2014 in the former 17th-century college for choirboys, there are some magnificent tapestries here dating as far back as the 15th century. The majority cover religious themes with the largest measuring around 10m in length. The tapestries have an annual airing on Corpus Christi when they hang outside the cathedral (despite the obvious ill effects from the elements). The museum’s lower ground floor has an interesting exhibit about the college, complete with audiovisuals and evocative taped choral music.
Mirador del Valle VIEWPOINT
(Carretera Circunvalación)
To get the ultimate photo of Toledo you need to cross the Río Tajo and climb the road on the other side to this strategic viewpoint. You can either walk up from the Puente Nuevo de Alcántara or catch the Trainvision from Plaza de Zocodover which makes a stop here during its 30-minute scenic journey. The view is not dissimilar to the one depicted by El Greco in his famous landscape, Vista de Toledo (1596–1600).
Museo de los Concilios y la Cultura Visigoda MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 78 72; Calle de San Román; adult/child €1/free; h10am-2.30pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
Sometimes dismissively called the ‘Invisigoths’ due to their foggy medieval legacy, the Visigoths inhabit a little-known chapter of Spanish history sandwiched in between the Romans and Moors. Information about them is often difficult to procure until you come to Toledo, their de-facto capital in the 6th and 7th centuries. The era’s history can be partially relived at this modest, but important, museum set in the shadowy 13th-century San Román church.
Iglesia del Salvador CHURCH
(%925 25 60 98; Plaza del Salvador; admission €2.80; h10am-6.45pm Sat-Thu, 10am-2.45 & 4-6.45pm Fri)
This little-visited but hugely interesting church exposes multiple historical layers in true Toledan fashion. Until 1159, it was a mosque; before that, a Visigothic church. One of its most fascinating artefacts is a richly engraved Visigothic pillar scavenged by later builders to hold up the roof.
Iglesia de Santo Tomé CHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 25 60 98; www.santotome.org; Plaza del Conde; adult/child €2.80/free; h10am-6.45pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct, 10am-5.45pm mid-Oct–mid-Mar)
Iglesia de Santo Tomé contains El Greco’s most famous masterpiece El entierro del conde de Orgaz (The Burial of the Count of Orgaz), which is accessed by a separate entrance on Plaza del Conde. When the count was buried in 1322, Sts Augustine and Stephen supposedly descended from heaven to attend the funeral. El Greco’s work depicts the event, complete with miracle guests including himself, his son and Cervantes.
2Walking Tour
A Stroll through History
Start off in central 1Plaza de Zocodover, for centuries the city’s marketplace and scene for bullfights and Inquisition-led burnings at the stake, then pass through the 2Arco de la Sangre on the eastern side of the square to admire the facade of the 3Museo de Santa Cruz. Up the hill to the south is Toledo’s signature 4Alcázar, beyond which there are some fine 5views over the Río Tajo; follow Cuesta de Carlos V along the west wall of the Alcázar and then turn left to walk down Calle de General Moscardó. As the Alcázar’s commanding position and sweeping views attest, Toledo was perfectly sited for medieval defences.
Follow the spires down the hill to the west, passing the remnants of a the 6Mezquita de las Tornerías before reaching the 7Catedral de Toledo, the spiritual home of Catholic Spain. Twist your way northwest to the 8Centro Cultural San Marcos. Housed in the 17th-century San Marcos church, its original domed roof, complete with ceiling frescoes, creates an evocative gallery space for temporary art exhibitions.
Down the hill you enter the heart of Toledo’s old Jewish quarter. Admire the swords in the shops along 9Calle de San Juan de Dios and head past the aSinagoga del Tránsito to admire further cliff-top views over the river. The synagogue takes on a special poignancy if you continue along Calle de los Reyes Católicos to the splendid bMonasterio San Juan de los Reyes MAP GOOGLE MAP. Spain’s Catholic rulers hoped this church would represent the ultimate triumph of their religion over others. This is a fine spot to end your walk, but you could drop down from here to the riverside pathway that will take you on a half-circuit of the old town back to near your starting point (an additional 2km).
2Activities
oSenda Ecológica WALKING
This remarkably varied walking path tracks the Río Tajo through a steep-sided gorge where you’ll feel as if you’ve left the city far behind (although urban life reverberates only metres above you). It stretches between the Azarquiel and San Martín bridges and includes some relatively wild stretches where a wooden walkway has been stapled to the rock face.
Fly Toledo ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%693 464845; www.flytoledo.com; Puente de San Martin 2; €10; h10.30am-6.30pm)
Heavy museum legs sometimes need to relieve themselves and this bracing high-wire act that catapults vertigo-shunners across the Río Tajo gorge via the longest urban tirolina (zipline) in Europe might just do the trick. The ride begins and ends close to the San Martín bridge on the western side of town.
Medina Mudéjar HAMMAM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 93 14; www.medinamudejar.com; Calle Santa Eulalia 1; €27, incl massage €45; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 11pm Sat, to 8pm Sun)
Luxuriate in the self-pampering surrounds of this relaxing hammam with its warm ochre walls, arches, exposed stone, and brick vaulted ceilings. Hot, warm and cold baths, steam baths and options for various massages make for a relaxing respite from sightseeing. Moroccan tea is served as an ideal relaxing finale.
TOP TOLEDO VIEWS
For superb city views, head over the Puente de Alcántara to the other side of Río Tajo and follow the road that rises to your right (there’s a pavement!), where the vista becomes more marvellous with every step. If you’re staying overnight, along this road is the Parador de Toledo, which has superlative views, as does the restaurant La Ermita, which has a short, quality menu of elaborate Spanish cuisine.
In the town centre, you can also climb the towers at the Iglesia San Ildefonso (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Iglesia de los Jesuitas; %925 25 15 07; Plaza Juan de Mariana 1; adult/child €2.80/free; h10am-6.45pm Apr-Sep, to 5.45pm Oct-Mar) for up-close views of the cathedral and Alcázar.
TTours
Various companies offer guided (and usually themed) walking tours around the town. Themes include Three Cultures (Muslim, Christian and Jewish) and El Greco. There are also night tours based around local legends.
Rutas de Toledo WALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %630 709338; www.rutasdetoledo.es; Calle de Sixto Ramón Parro 9; per person €6-20; h10.30am-2pm & 5.30-8pm)
A good mix of standard tours (El Greco, Sephardic Jewish culture) with more creative night tours, including some which are more theatrical with actors in traditional dress.
zFestivals & Events
Corpus Christi RELIGIOUS
This is one of the finest Corpus Christi celebrations in Spain, taking place on the Thursday 60 days after Easter Sunday. Several days of festivities reach a crescendo with a procession featuring the massive Custodia de Arfe.
4Sleeping
Oasis Backpackers Hostel HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 76 50; www.hostelsoasis.com; Calle de las Cadenas 5; dm €18, d €34-44; 
i
W)
One of four Oasis hostels in Spain, this hostel sparkles with what have become the chain’s glowing hallmarks: laid-back but refreshingly well-organised service and an atmosphere that is fun without ever being loud or obnoxious. There are private rooms if you’re not up for a dorm-share, and lots of free information on city attractions.
Hotel Santa Isabel HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 25 31 20; www.hotelsantaisabeltoledo.es; Calle de Santa Isabel 24; s/d €40/50; W)
Providing a safe, economical base to stay in Toledo, the Santa Isabel is clean, central and friendly. It’s encased in an old noble house with simple rooms set around two courtyards. Several have cathedral views, along with the charming rooftop terrace, accessed by a spiral staircase. The on-site cafeteria offers a simple breakfast (at a small extra cost).
Albergue San Servando HOSTEL€
(%925 22 45 58; www.reaj.com; Subida del Castillo; dm €15-18; 
aiW
s)
Occupying digs normally reserved for paradores (luxurious state-owned hotels) is this unusual youth hostel encased in a 14th-century castle – built by the Knights Templar, no less. Dorms have either two single beds or two double bunks, and there’s a cafeteria serving meals as well as a summer pool. If you’re not an HI member, you’ll need to buy a card here.
oHacienda del Cardenal HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 49 00; www.haciendadelcardenal.com; Paseo de Recaredo 24; r incl breakfast €90-135; aWs)
This wonderful 18th-century former cardinal’s mansion has pale ochre-coloured walls, Moorish-inspired arches and stately columns. Some rooms are grand, others are more simply furnished, but all come with dark furniture, plush fabrics and parquet floors. Several overlook the glorious terraced gardens. Underground parking is available nearby (€15 per day).
oCasa de Cisneros BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 88 28; www.hospederiacasadecisneros.com; 12 Calle del Cardenal Cisneros; s/d €40/66; aW)
Across from the cathedral, this seductive hotel is built on the site of an 11th-century Islamic palace, which can be best appreciated by visiting their basement restaurant. In comparison, this building is a 16th-century youngster, with pretty stone-and-wood beamed rooms and exceptionally voguish bathrooms. A rooftop terrace offers stunning views of the cathedral and beyond. Excellent value.
Hostal Santo Tomé HOSTAL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 17 12; www.hostalsantotome.com; Calle de Santo Tomé 13; s/d €55/72; 
paW)
Hotel Abad HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 28 35 00; www.hotelabad.com; Calle Real del Arrabal 1; r/ste/apt from €80/120/75; paW)
Compact, pretty and pleasing, this hotel sits on the lower slopes of the old town and offers good value. Rooms very successfully blend modern comfort with exposed old brick; some have small balconies, but those at the back are notably quieter. There are also two- to four-bedroom apartments available in an adjacent building which, unusually, have no minimum stay requirement.
EL GRECO IN TOLEDO
Of all Spain’s old masters, El Greco is the most instantly recognisable. You don’t need a degree in art history to be able to identify the talented Greek’s distinctive religious canvases characterised by gaunt figures dressed in stark, vivid colours. Spread liberally around the museums and churches of Toledo, they practically jump out at you.
Born Doménikos Theotokópoulos on Crete in 1541, El Greco will always be intrinsically linked with Toledo, where he arrived as a bolshie 36-year-old in 1577. Never one to court popularity, the artist had already sparked controversy during a tempestuous apprenticeship in Italy where he had criticised the work of Michelangelo. His arrival in Spain proved to be equally thorny. Hindered by a thinly veiled arrogance and adhering to what were unconventional painting methods for the time (though ‘revolutionary’ by modern yardsticks), El Greco failed in his early attempts to ingratiate himself to the court of King Philip II. Gravitating instead to Toledo, he found an improbable artistic refuge where he worked to refine his style and establish his reputation.
Despite earning a degree of respectability during his lifetime, El Greco was largely ignored in the years following his death. Indeed, his prophetic work wasn’t seriously reappraised until the early 20th century, when he was embraced by artists such as Picasso whose murky ‘blue period’ echoed the melancholy of some of El Greco’s early compositions.
Outside Madrid’s Museo del Prado, Toledo protects El Greco’s greatest work. The Iglesia de Santo Tomé contains his magnum opus El entierro del conde de Orgaz (The Burial of the Count of Orgaz), depicting the count’s burial in 1322. Look out for El Greco himself and Cervantes among the guests. The nearby Museo del Greco also has a solid collection of El Greco’s works.
One of the oldest convents in Toledo, the 11th-century Convento de Santo Domingo El Antiguo (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 29 30; Plaza de Santo Domingo el Antiguo; adult/child €2.50/free; h11am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Sun) includes some of El Greco’s early commissions, other copies and signed contracts of the artist. Visible through a hole in the floor is the crypt and wooden coffin of the painter himself.
Other spots in Toledo where you can contemplate El Greco’s works include the Museo de Santa Cruz, the sacristía (sacristy) in the cathedral and the Hospital de Tavera (%925 22 04 51; Calle Duque de Lerma 2; courtyard & chapel €4, full ticket €6; h10am-2.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun)
Casa de los Mozárabes APARTMENT€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 21 17 01; www.casadelosmozarabes.com; Callejón de Menores 10; apt €90-150; aW)
Occupying a historical Toledo house on a quiet central lane, these excellent apartments have modern furnishings that combine well with the exposed stone and brick and original features of the building. There’s a common lounge area with a pool table, a few weights, and books and magazines for the not so energetic.
La Posada de Manolo BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 28 22 50; www.laposadademanolo.com; Calle de Sixto Ramón Parro 8; s from €55, d €77-88; aW)
This memorable hotel has themed each floor with furnishings and decor reflecting one of the three cultures of Toledo: Christian, Islamic and Jewish. Rooms vary in size and cost, depending on whether they are interior or exterior, and some have balconies. There are stunning views of the old town and cathedral from the terrace, where breakfast is served, weather permitting.
oParador Conde de Orgaz HOTEL€€€
(%925 22 18 50; www.parador.es; Cerro del Emperador; r €115-215; paWs)
High above the southern bank of Río Tajo, Toledo’s low-rise parador (luxurious state-owned hotel) has a classy interior and sublime-at-sunset city views. The parador is well signposted: turn right just after crossing the bridge northeast of the old centre. You’ll need a car or be prepared to pay for a taxi (around €8).
5Eating
Madre Tierra VEGETARIAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 35 71; www.restaurantemadretierra.com; Bajada de la Tripería 2; mains €9-12; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Wed-Mon; W
v)
In this haven for jamón and game, vegetarians can go hungry in Toledo. This excellent vegetarian restaurant has a menu that ranges from tofu and seitan choices to more mainstream pizzas and pastas. The salads are imaginative and generous and the soups have a real wow factor. Find it tucked down a side alley, behind the southeastern corner of the cathedral.
Bar Ludeña SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 33 84; Plaza de Magdalena 10; mains €8-12; h10.30am-4.30pm & 8-11.30pm)
Despite its central location close to Toledo’s main tourist thoroughfare, Ludeña retains a wholesome local image courtesy of the flock of regulars who – despite the tourist infiltration – still frequent it. Join them as they prop up the bar with a caña (beer) and a plate of the Toledano speciality, carcamusa (pork and vegetable stew). Alternatively, grab a pew on the delightful shady terrace.
Palacios SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 34 97; Calle Alfonso X el Sabio 3; tapas €2, set menus from €7.50; h7am-10.30pm)
Spain’s no-fuss, old-school taverns can sometimes be hit or miss in the food stakes, but Palacios edges into the ‘hit’ category, courtesy of its super-economical menú del día – a basic, but tasty three-course meal (with bread and a drink). It’s also an excellent place for early morning churros, as well as tapas, with carafe-loads of local atmosphere.
oAlfileritos 24 MODERN SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 23 96 25; www.alfileritos24.com; Calle de los Alfileritos 24; mains €19-20, bar food €4.50-12; h9.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
The 14th-century surroundings of columns, beams and barrel-vault ceilings are cleverly coupled with modern artwork and bright dining rooms in an atrium space spread over four floors. The menu demonstrates an innovative flourish in the kitchen, with dishes such as green rice with quail or loins of venison with baked-in-the-bag reineta (pippin) apple.
La Abadía CASTILIAN, TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 25 11 40; www.abadiatoledo.com; Plaza de San Nicolás 3; raciones €7-15; hbar 8am-midnight, restaurant 1-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight)
In a former 16th-century palace, this atmospheric bar and restaurant has arches, niches and coloured bottles lined up as decoration, spread throughout a warren of brick-and-stone-clad rooms. The menu includes lightweight dishes and tapas, but the three-course ‘Menú de Montes de Toledo’ (€20) is a fabulous collection of tastes from the nearby mountains, including partridge, wild mushrooms and almonds (as is the scrumptious marzipan-cum-cheesecake dessert).
Asador Palencia de Lara GRILL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 25 67 46; www.asadorpalenciadelara.es; Calle Nuncio Viejo 6; tapas €2.50, mains €17-20; h1-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun, closed Jul & Aug)
This smart place has a modern dining room set in a covered patio and specialises in grilled meats. Eschew the overpriced starters and start your meal in the small, vaguely corporate-feeling bar area, which turns out a delicious series of inexpensive tapas, then head through for the meat-based mains. Everything goes down well with a glass of house red.
Taberna El Botero SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 90 88; www.tabernabotero.com; Calle de la Ciudad 5; raciones €9-17; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Wed-Sun, noon-4pm Mon & Tue)
Handy for the cathedral, this atmospheric bar and restaurant offers up elaborately presented dishes based on traditional Spanish ingredients such as octopus, cod and game. It also does expertly prepared cocktails and mixed drinks; ask master bartender, Javier, for his recommendations.
Kumera MODERN SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 25 75 53; www.restaurantekumera.com; Calle Alfonso X El Sabio 2; mains €16-20, set menu €30; h8am-2.30am Mon-Fri, 11am-2.30am Sat & Sun)
This place serves up innovative takes on local dishes such as cochinillo (suckling pig), rabo de toro (bull’s tail) or lomo de venado (venison with chestnut gnocchi and red berries), alongside other creatively conceived dishes. Those with foie gras as the centrepiece are especially memorable. Sit on the terrace within confessional distance of the picturesque Iglesia de San Ildefonso.
oAdolfo MODERN EUROPEAN€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 73 21; www.adolforestaurante.com; Callejón Hombre de Palo 7; mains €25-28, set menu €76; h1-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)
Toledo doffs its hat to fine dining at this temple of good food and market freshness. Run by notable La Mancha–born chef Adolfo Muñoz, the restaurant has been around for over 25 years, and in that time has morphed into one of Spain’s best gourmet establishments. Partridge is the speciality.
The restaurant is also known for its extensive wine cellar within which lurk over 32,000 bottles.
Casa Aurelio SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 41 05; www.casa-aurelio.com; Calle de la Sinagoga 6; mains €19-22, set menu €33; h1-4.30pm & 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1-4.30pm Mon; W)
Purporting to be Toledo’s oldest restaurant, Casa Aurelio has been around since 1953 and still ranks among the best of Toledo’s traditional eateries. Game and grilled meat dishes are the pride of the place as evidenced by the cabinet of meat cuts and stuffed partridges by the door. There’s another branch (%925 21 36 18; www.casa-aurelio.com; Plaza del Ayuntamiento; mains €10-16, set menu €18; h9.30am-6pm Mon, Wed & Sun, 10.30am-6pm & 8pm-midnight Fri & Sat) near the cathedral.
Hostal del Cardenal SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 49 00; www.hostaldelcardenal.com; Paseo de Recaredo 24; mains €18-25; h1-4pm & 8-11pm)
This hotel restaurant enjoys one of Toledo’s most magical locations for dining alfresco: it’s tucked into a private garden entered via its own gate in the city walls. The food is classic Spanish, with roast meats – suckling pig and lamb are the best dishes on show here – to the fore. It’s a bit touristy, but the location is unforgettable on a balmy summer’s night.
La Ermita SPANISH€€€
(%925 25 31 93; www.laermitarestaurante.com; Carretera de Circunvalación; mains €18-22, degustation menu €48; h1.30-4pm & 8.45-11pm)
Location. Location. Location. La Ermita sits across the Río Tajo gorge from the city, meaning you’ll have the tangled medieval core of Toledo winking back at you as you peruse its reassuringly brief menu of beautifully presented Spanish cuisine. The menu changes regularly but you can expect to see wild boar, salmon and suckling pig prepared with innovative culinary skill.
Vegetarians are graciously catered to.
DON’T MISS
MARZIPAN
Not a marzipan fan? Think again. You probably won’t have tasted it so good anywhere else. Toledo is famed for this wonderful almond-based confectionery (mazapán in Spanish), which every shop seems to sell. The Santo Tomé marzipan brand is highly regarded and there are several outlets in town, including one on Plaza de Zocodover (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 11 68; www.mazapan.com; Plaza de Zocodover 7; h9am-10pm). Even the local nuns get in on the marzipan act; most of the convents sell the sweets.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oLibro Taberna El Internacional BAR, CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 67 27 65; www.facebook.com/librotabernatoledo; Calle de la Ciudad 15; h8pm-1.30am Tue-Thu, noon-1.30am Fri & Sat, noon-4pm Sun) 
S
If you think Toledo is more touristy than trendy, you clearly haven’t found your way into the cool confines of El Internacional, a proud purveyor of slow food, spray-painted tables, overflowing bookcases, rescued 1970s armchairs and, of course, beards.
7Shopping
Simón ARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 21 32; Plaza de San Vicente 1; h10am-4pm & 4.30-7.30pm)
Casa Cuartero FOOD, DRINK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %925 22 26 14; www.casacuartero.com; Calle Hombre de Palo 5; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm & 4-8pm Sat)
Just north of the cathedral, this fabulous food shop (here since 1920) sells marzipan, cured meats, wines, cheeses and all manner of local delicacies from around Castilla-La Mancha. It’s ideal for gifts to take home or to stock up for a picnic.
STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
The remonte peatonal (Puerta de Alfonso VI; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2am Sat, 8am-10pm Sun) – a series of escalators – starting near the Puerta de Alfonso VI and ending near the Monasterio de Santo Domingo El Antiguo, is a good way to avoid the steep uphill climb to reach the historic quarter of town.
8Information
Main Tourist Office (%925 25 40 30; www.toledo-turismo.com; Plaza Consistorio 1; h10am-6pm) Within sight of the cathedral. There are also offices in Plaza de Zocodover (%925 25 40 30; www.toledo-turismo.com; Plaza de Zocodover; h10am-7pm) and the train station (%925 25 40 30; www.toledo-turismo.com; Estación de Renfe, Paseo de la Rosa; h9.30am-3pm).
Regional Tourist Office (%925 22 08 43; www.turismocastillalamancha.es; Puerta de Bisagra; h10am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm & 4-6pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) Has a wealth of information about the region. Located north of the old town.
8Getting There & Away
To get to most major destinations, you’ll need to backtrack to Madrid.
From the pretty train station (%902 240202; www.renfe.es; Paseo de la Rosa), high-speed Alta Velocidad Española (AVE) trains run every hour or so to Madrid (€13, 30 minutes).
From Toledo’s bus station (%925 21 58 50; www.alsa.es; Bajada Castilla La Mancha), buses depart for Madrid’s Plaza Elíptica (from €5.50, one to 1¾ hours) roughly every half-hour; some are direct, some via villages. There are also daily services to Cuenca (€15, 3¼ hours).
8Getting Around
Buses (€1.50) run between Plaza de Zocodover and the bus station (bus 5) and train station (buses 61 and 62).
The Trainvision (%625 301890; Plaza de Zocodover; adult/child €5.50/2.60; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sun, to 10pm Sat) trolley bus runs around the main monuments and up to the Mirador del Valle. It leaves from Plaza Zocodover every 30 minutes.
Driving in the old town is a nightmare. There are several underground car parks throughout the area. Zones blocked off by bollards can be accessed if you have a hotel reservation.
TALAVERA DE LA REINA
POP 88,565
Talavera de la Reina, long famous worldwide for its ceramics, has a laid-back appeal. Talavera is strikingly located, surrounded by mountains, and divided by the Río Tajo. Three bridges, one of which dates from Roman times and has been aesthetically restored, connect the two sides of the city. Historically, the city is famed for being the site of the Battle of Talavera against Napoleon’s army in 1809, when the Duke of Wellington successfully expelled the French army from the city.
1Sights
Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Prado BASILICA
(Jardines del Prado)
Talavera’s main church is sometimes dubbed the ‘Sistine Chapel of ceramics’ for its intricate tilework, which showcases the city’s finest azulejos (tiles), many of them painted with religious themes. It sits amid elegant gardens right next to Talavera’s bullring, where an infamous corrida (bullfight) saw Spain’s most famous bullfighter, ‘Joselito El Gallo’ fatally gored in May 1920. A statue of the fallen idol decorates the gardens outside.
7Shopping
Cerámica San Agustín CERAMICS
(%925 80 89 16; www.ceramicasanagustin.es; Calle de la Puerta del Río 9; h9am-2pm & 4-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
This bright, family-run ceramics shop is very close to the tourist office and is useful if you don’t want to carry your shopping bag to the outlets on the western side of town. It has all the classic Talavera designs.
8Information
Tourist Office (%925 82 63 22; www.talavera.org; Ronda del Cañillo 22; h9.30am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) Doubles as a gallery displaying – you guessed it – ceramics. It’s located next to the old Roman bridge.
8Getting There & Away
The bus station is in the town centre. Regular buses between Madrid and Badajoz stop in Talavera de la Reina. Autocares Toletum (www.autocarestoletum.es; Avenida de Toledo) runs buses to Toledo (from €7.15, 1½ hours) roughly hourly. There is also a regular train service to Madrid (from €12, 1½ hours, seven daily) from the main train station on Paseo de la Estación to the north of the centre.
Oropesa
POP 2850
The village of Oropesa, 34km west of Talavera de la Reina and enticingly visible south from the N5 motorway, is dominated by – and famous for – its turreted 14th-century castle that looks north across the plains towards the Sierra de Gredos. Parts of the old town walls survive and the village has a handful of noble mansions and a couple of Renaissance churches that are worth checking out, as well a small main square flanked by bars and restaurants.
1Sights
Castillo de Oropesa CASTLE
(%925 45 00 06; Calle Castillo; adult/child €3/1.50; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun)
This sturdy 14th-century castle built on older roots looks north across the plains to the mighty Sierra de Gredos. There are five towers, four of which can be climbed to access the ramparts and really appreciate the stunning views; not suitable for anyone with mobility issues, however. Part of the castle is now a parador hotel, but it can be visited separately.
4Sleeping
La Hostería de Oropesa HOTEL€
(%925 43 08 75; Paseo Escolar 5; s/d €50/65; paW)
La Hostería, just below Oropesa’s castle, has pretty, individually decorated rooms with beamed ceilings and a popular restaurant with tables spilling out into a flower-festooned courtyard. Excellent value but the rooms do differ considerably so if possible check them out in advance.
Parador de Oropesa HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%925 43 00 00; www.parador.es; Plaza Palacio 1; r €75-145; paW)
Attached to Oropesa’s hilltop castle is a 14th-century palace housing Spain’s second-oldest parador, which has managed to retain a heady historical feel without the ‘overheritaging’ that typifies many Spanish paradores. Rooms are large and luxurious, with heavy brocade curtains and antiques.
8Getting There & Away
Buses travel from Talavera de la Reina to Oropesa (€4, 40 minutes) three or four times daily.
SOUTH CASTILLA–LA MANCHA
This is the terrain that typifies La Mancha for many people: the flat, often featureless plains of Spain’s high inland meseta (plateau) stretching to the horizon, punctuated by the occasional farmhouse or emblematic windmill. The southeast, however, is surprisingly verdant and lush with rivers, natural parks and some of the prettiest villages in the province.
Consuegra
POP 10,668
If you choose just one place to go windmill-spotting in Castilla–La Mancha, make it Consuegra.
1Sights
Castillo de Consuegra CASTLE
(%925 47 57 31; Cerro Calderico; adult/child €4/free; h10am-1.30pm & 4.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-6.30pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, shorter hours Oct-May; p)
This is the place for the novice windmill spotter, where you can get that classic shot of up to a dozen molinos de vientos (windmills) flanking Consuegra’s 12th-century castle, an atmospheric perch that remains under renovation with aesthetically restored rooms melding with untouched ruins. There are lots of stairs and narrow passages so it could be physically challenging for some.
Molino Rucio WINDMILL
(%925 09 53 39; www.elmolinoquefunciona.es; Carretera del Castillo; admission €2; h9am-6.30pm)
Of the 12 windmills that line a grassy ridge either side of Consuegra’s castle, Rucio is the only one in full working order. Inside there are displays on local saffron-farming, details of the mill’s internal machinery, and samples of some of the flour it grinds. Your entrance ticket includes a drink from the small shop downstairs.
4Sleeping
La Vida de Antes HOTEL€€
(%925 48 06 09; www.lavidadeantes.com; Calle de Colón 2; s/d €55/75; paiWs
#)
The best digs in Consuegra are encased in a noble old house with tiled floors, antique furnishings and a pretty patio that evokes a bygone era. The duplex rooms are particularly cosy and there’s interesting art exhibited throughout the building. Recent changes include a downstairs restaurant serving traditional local specialties in a pretty open courtyard (open for dinner only).
5Eating
El Alfar SPANISH€€
(%925 48 18 07; www.restaurantealfar.com; Calle de Valderribas; mains €16-23; h1-5pm & 8pm-late Fri-Sun, 1-5pm Mon; W)
Concentrating on exquisitely prepared La Mancha specialities, Consuegra’s most ambitious restaurant is also something of a museum, inhabiting an old ceramics workshop that was built over the ruins of the town’s ancient Roman circus. Ruined columns and capitals mingle with a profusion of pots, plants and trees in the expansive courtyard, while the decor indoors is equally museum-worthy.
It’s easy to forget you’re in a restaurant – until the food arrives. The three-course tasting menu includes dishes like partridge salad, migas (breadcrumbs, often cooked with chorizo and served with grapes) and a plethora of local wines (from the world’s largest wine-growing region, no less). Reservations are recommended.
8Information
Tourist Office (%925 47 57 31; www.consuegra.es; Ronda Molinos 29; h9am-6pm, to 7pm Jun-Sep) Located in the Bolero windmill (they all have names), the first you come to as the road winds up from the town. You can climb the steps here and see the original windmill machinery. There’s another tourist office next to the bus station.
8Getting There & Away
There are regular weekday buses (three on weekends) running between Consuegra and Toledo (€5.50, one hour) and up to seven buses daily to Madrid (€10.60, two hours). There’s also a daily connection (€4.75, one hour) to Ciudad Real.
Campo de Criptana
POP 14,600
One of the most popular stops on the Don Quijote route, Campo de Criptana is crowned by 10 windmills visible from kilometres around. Revered contemporary film-maker Pedro Almodóvar was born here, but left for Madrid in his teens. The town is pleasant, if unexceptional.
1Sights
Windmill Ticket Office WINDMILL
(www.campodecriptana.es; visits per mill €2; h10am-2pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Sat)
Poyatos, one of the 10 windmills on the northern edge of town, acts as a ticket office for visits to three other mills. Guided tours are also available.
Museo Eloy Teno MUSEUM
(%926 56 22 31; www.campodecriptana.es; Calle Rocinante 39; adult/child €2/free; h10am-2pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sat Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Oct-May; 
c)
This small family-friendly museum in the tourist office displays local artisan products, models of windmills and clever art – often Don Quijote–themed – made out of recycled metal.
4Sleeping
Casa Rural del Bachiller CASA RURAL€€
(%926 55 01 04; www.lacasadelbachiller.es; Calle Bachiller Sansón Carrasco 26; r €95; W)
An unexpected hideout. Enjoy a veritable Quijote experience staying in this aesthetically reformed historic house with its heady views of the windmills and original caves (the former main living spaces in the house). Rooms have a timeless classic feel and are restfully decorated to ensure a tranquil stay; guests are treated to complimentary wine from the region (which helps).
5Eating
Cueva La Martina SPANISH€€
(%926 56 14 76; www.cuevalamartina.com; Calle Rocinante 13; mains €8-15; h1.30-4pm Mon, 1.30-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun; p)
The best place to eat is atmospheric Cueva La Martina, opposite the windmills. The cave-like dining area is dug into the rock, and there’s a breezy upstairs terrace with views over town. Dishes to try include the super simple asadillo manchego (a slow-roasted vegetable casserole dominated by red peppers) or the richer Burgos-style black pudding.
It’s popular with coach tours so get here early to snag a table.
8Information
Tourist Office (Calle Rocinante 39; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) Located in a low-rise building opposite the Inca Garcilaso windmill. It shares the space with Museo Eloy Teno.
WORTH A TRIP
PALACIO DE LA SERNA
A 20-minute drive south of the uninteresting provincial capital of Ciudad Real in the sleepy village of Ballesteros de Calatrava, this superb hotel (%926 84 22 08; www.hotelpalaciodelaserna.com; Calle Cervantes 18, Ballesteros de Calatrava; r €90-140, ste €180-220; paWs#) feels a world away. Set around a courtyard, it combines rural comfort with appealing design; the owner’s evocative modern sculptures feature heavily. Rooms are slick and modern with lots of mirrors, spot lighting, bright colours and edgy contemporary paintings.
There’s also a spa, complete with flotation tank (€30 per session), and a good on-site restaurant.
8Getting There & Away
There are trains to Madrid’s main Atocha station (€17, 1½ hours, four daily) from the town’s Estación de Tren located on Calle Agustín de la Fuente, south of the centre.
Campo de Criptana is linked to Ciudad Real (€9, 1¼ hours) by two buses Monday to Friday and one on Saturday.
Almagro
POP 9100
The theatre and pickled aubergines are Almagro’s improbable bedfellows. Almagro is to the theatre what Seville is to flamenco, the spiritual home of the art – at least in Spain – courtesy of its ‘golden age’ playhouse (Spain’s oldest) and all-encompassing theatre museum. Not that you have to be a thespian to appreciate the place. The diminutive town, which gained importance during the Reconquista, might have been designed with 21st-century tourists in mind. Everything of note is a short, traffic-free stroll from its cobbled nexus, Plaza Mayor.
1Sights
Corral de Comedias HISTORIC BUILDING
(%926 88 24 58; www.corraldecomedias.com; Plaza Mayor 18; adult/child incl English audio guide €4/free; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 10am-12.45pm & 5-8pm Sun Apr-Sep, shorter hours rest of the year)
Opening onto the plaza is the oldest theatre in Spain. The 17th-century Corral de Comedias is an evocative tribute to the golden age of Spanish theatre, with rows of wooden balconies facing the original stage, complete with dressing rooms. Once daily (twice on Saturday) visits become ‘theatrised’ with costumed actors replacing the audio guide: this costs €3 more. It’s still used for performances on Saturday evenings from the end of March to the end of October; buy tickets via the website.
The history of the theatre is intriguing. It was founded in 1628 by a wealthy priest, but, after a century of performances, was closed during the cultural clampdowns of King Philip V. After that, the theatre was pretty much forgotten until a local inn-owner found a deck of old playing cards in the 1950s. Subsequent excavations on the site in Plaza Mayor led to the rediscovery of the theatre, which reopened for performances in 1954. The 18th-century playing cards are now on show in the town’s Museo Nacional de Teatro. Hours vary in winter and during festivals.
Museo Nacional de Teatro MUSEUM
(%926 26 10 14; http://museoteatro.mcu.es; Calle Gran Maestre 2; adult/child €3/free; h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Fri, from 10.30am Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun)
Thespian or not, you could spend hours in Almagro’s illustrious museum just sifting through the highlights. Theatrical musings include a hand-painted set of playing cards from 1729 found in the nearby Corral de Comedias, a deftly sculpted model of Mérida’s Roman theatre, costumes and props relating to zarzuela (Spanish mix of theatre, music and dance) and – anchoring it all – a handsome 13th-century courtyard.
TTours
Visitas Guiadas a Almagro WALKING
(%609 79 36 54; www.almagrovisitasguiadas.com; Plaza Mayor 41; per person €12)
Aside from the standard two-hour Almagro walking tour, it also offers out-of-town tours to Calatrava la Nueva, Parque Nacional Tablas de Daimiel and Lagunas de Ruidera.
zFestivals & Events
Festival Internacional de Teatro Clásico THEATRE
(www.festivaldealmagro.com; Corral de Comedias; hJul)
4Sleeping
La Posada de Almagro GUESTHOUSE€
(%926 88 22 44; www.laposadadealmagro.com; Calle Gran Maestre 5; s/d €44/60; aW)
A short hop from the Plaza Mayor, this fine inn has simple, tidy rooms with wrought-iron bedheads, thoughtfully decorated walls and tiled bathrooms. Bring earplugs if you’re here on a weekend as the noise from the restaurant can be loud and long.
oCasa Rural Tía Pilar GUESTHOUSE€€
(%926 88 27 24; www.tiapilar.com; Calle de los Carrascos 1; s/d €40/70; paWs)
This beautiful 18th-century house is a delight with four patios, a lovely common room (with a fancy coffee machine) and a small but elegant swimming pool. Rooms are decorated with antiques and are well heated and/or air-conditioned for an old house. The owners live on-site to provide warm but discreet service. Excellent value.
La Casa del Rector HOTEL€€
(%926 26 12 59; www.lacasadelrector.com; Calle Pedro de Oviedo 8; s/d €85/100; aiWs)
A three-way marriage between modern rooms, ‘design’ rooms and traditional historical rooms, the Rector is, in a word, magnificent. It’s difficult to imagine what taste isn’t being catered for in its lush interior set around three courtyards with elegant fountains, retro antiques (sewing machines!) and a streamlined cafe.
Design rooms have wood-floor showers, coffee machines and electric window blinds. Modern rooms are a little more beige and mainstream. Traditional rooms retain many of the building’s original features such as wood beams and heavy tiled floors. To top it all off, there’s an on-site spa.
Retiro del Maestre HOTEL€€
(%926 26 11 85; www.retirodelmaestre.com; Calle de San Bartolomé 5; s €60-80, d €75-100; paW)
Enjoy cosseted treatment and style without the hurly-burly of a big hotel. Rooms here are spacious and washed in warm yellow and blue; go for one on the upper floor with a private balcony. The location, a five-minute walk from the Plaza Mayor, couldn’t be better. The higher prices are for the superior rooms with king-size beds, Jacuzzis and other perks.
DON’T MISS
CASTILLO DE CALATRAVA
This magnificent castle-monastery (%926 850 371; www.castillodecalatrava.com; Ctra de Calzada de Calatrava Km 2.3, Calzada de Calatrava; adult/child €4/free; h11am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-9pm Sun Apr-Sep, shorter hours rest of the year; p) looms high in the sky some 6km south of the town of Calzada de Calatrava and 30km south of Almagro, from where it once controlled the path into the Sierra Morena and Andalucía. A steep cobbled road takes you to the top, where you can alternate gazing at expansive views with exploring this extraordinary castle-cum monastery in closer detail. Highlights include the vast basilica and the chapter hall with its coffins and segment from an original mural.
The complex was once headquarters for the Calatrava Knights, Spain’s oldest military order, founded in 1158 to challenge Moorish power in Iberia. Their original base was Calatrava La Vieja, located 60km to the north, a castle twice snatched audaciously from the Moors. As the Christians pushed further into Moorish territory following Alfonso VIII’s victory in the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212, the Calatrava Knights commissioned this newer citadel in 1217 built using the labour of prisoners caught in the battle.
You can explore the castle on your own or opt for a guided tour (in Spanish), which is included in the price.
5Eating
El Patio de Ezequiel SPANISH€€
(%926 09 72 03; Calle de San Agustín 4; mains €10-14; hnoon-midnight; W)
The most romantic setting in town for a meal or drink with tables set in a softly lit patio, complete with trickling fountain. The menu includes several excellent salads with smoked fish, partridge or sardines, plus egg-based dishes, grilled meats and fish. Portions are vast.
Restaurante Abrasador CASTILIAN€€
(%926 88 26 56; www.abrasador.es; Calle San Agustín 18; tostas €2, mains €12-25, set menus from €28; h11.30am-4pm & 8.30-11pm)
Thoughtfully prepared cooking including perfectly grilled meats dominates the restaurant out the back. Snaffle the table next to the open fire in winter if you can. Out the front, you’ll find some of the most creative tapas in Almagro – the famed local aubergine features prominently and it’s our pick of the orders, whatever guise it’s in.
8Information
Tourist Office (%926 86 07 17; www.ciudad-almagro.com; Calle Ejido de Calatrava; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-7pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) This well-stocked tourist office next to the small bus station has helpful English-speaking staff. Afternoon opening and closing is one hour earlier from November to March.
8Getting There & Away
Buses run to Ciudad Real (€4, 30 minutes, up to five daily Monday to Saturday).
Parque Nacional Tablas de Daimiel
Forty kilometres northeast of Ciudad Real, this small wetland national park is great for birdwatching. From the visitor centre, which has an exhibition on the fragile local ecosystem, three trails lead out along the lake shore and over boardwalks. From these, and the various observation hides – bring binoculars – you can see an astonishing variety of wildlife, including ducks, geese, kingfishers, flamingos, herons and other waders, tortoises and otters. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to visit.
8Information
National Park Visitor Centre (Centro de Visitantes Parque Nacional de Daimiel; %926 69 31 18; www.lastablasdedaimiel.com; Carretera a las Tablas de Daimiel; h9am-8pm; W) This visitor centre signposted near the centre of the park has a small exhibition about the flora and fauna of the Parque Nacional Tablas de Daimiel. It can also supply maps for suggested itineraries.
8Getting There & Away
The park is 10km northwest of the town of Daimiel, which is linked by regular buses to Ciudad Real. From Daimiel you’ll need your own wheels.
Alcalá del Júcar
POP 1300
Northeast of Albacete, the deep, tree-filled gorge of Río Júcar makes for a stunning detour. About halfway along the CM3201, the crag-clinging town of Alcalá del Júcar comes into view as you descend via hairpin turns. Its landmark castle, dating mostly from the 15th century, towers over the houses (many in caves) that spill down the steep bank of the river gorge. At the foot of the town there’s a medieval bridge with Roman origins and a leafy meeting-and-greeting plaza. It’s a good destination for young kids, with a large, traffic-free area, and safe paddling in a bend of the river.
1Sights
Cuevas del Diablo CAVE
(%967 47 31 02; www.cuevasdeldiablo.com; Calle San Lorenzo 7; admission €3; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun)
A vast cave complex with tunnels and a private collection of eccentric and historical artefacts and farming tools. A complimentary drink is included in the price. Owner Juan José Martínez García is easy to spot around town thanks to his flamboyant Dalí-style moustache.
Castillo de Alcalá de Júcar CASTLE
(%967 47 30 90; Calle Laberinto 10; adult/child €2.50/1.50; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm May-Sep, 11am-2pm & 3-6pm Oct-Apr)
Alcalá del Júcar’s landmark castle with its pentagonal main tower is of Almohad origin, but what you see today dates mostly from the 15th century. There are year-round temporary exhibitions mainly concentrated on art and antiquities – and great views from the ramparts.
TTours
Avenjúcar ADVENTURE
(%967 47 41 34; www.avenjucar.com; Avenida Constitución; c)
Adventure activities in the Alcalá de Júcar area including wet and dry canyoning and river experiences. Some trips run for two or three days with a night (or two) in rural accommodation.
4Sleeping
Hostal Rambla HOSTAL€
(%967 47 40 64; www.hostalrambla.es; Paseo de los Robles 2; s/d €50/55; aW)
5Eating
Fogones el Chato SPANISH€€
(%622 035696; Calle Canal 16; mains €10-12, set menu €15; hnoon-4pm & 8-11pm Thu-Mon, noon-4pm Tue)
The sun-dappled terrace here is a place to linger, flanked by vegetable allotments (yes, expect organic fresh produce in the dishes), near the river. The uncomplicated menu concentrates on traditional dishes prepared with panache. The menu of the day is excellent value.
8Information
Tourist Office (%967 47 30 90; www.turismocastillalamancha.com; Paseo de los Robles 1; h10am-2pm Sat & Sun) The small tourist office has a wealth of information about casas rurales (farmstead accommodation), cave accommodation and activities, including maps showing local walking trails. If it is closed the ticket office-cum-souvenir shop at the castle can also provide information and a town map.
8Getting There & Away
There is one daily bus on weekdays only between Albacete and Alcalá (€6.50, 1½ hours). It’s run by Emisalba (www.emisalba.com).
Belmonte
POP 2010
Situated about 17km northeast of Mota del Cuervo and partially enclosed by fortified walls, small tranquil Belmonte is most notable for its story-book castle, the Castillo de Belmonte. The small town is enclosed by 15th-century walls with three original gateways still standing. It is well worth a stroll with other sights including a handsome Gothic church and a 17th-century former Jesuit monastery, now housing law courts and the post office.
1Sights
Castillo de Belmonte CASTLE
(%967 81 00 40; www.castillodebelmonte.com; Calle Eugenia de Montijo; adult/child incl audio guide €9/5; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm & 3.30-6.30pm Oct–mid-Feb, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm mid-Feb–May; p)
This is how castles should look, with turrets, largely intact walls and a commanding position over the plains of La Mancha from the ramparts. Visitors are well catered for with an elevator between the ground and 1st floor and a small cafe. The castle was once home to France’s Empress Eugénie after her husband, Napoleon III, lost the French throne in 1871 and rooms have been grandly furnished in 19th-century style. The former dungeons are now home to a small armory.
4Sleeping
Palacio Buenavista Hospedería BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%967 18 75 80; www.palaciobuenavista.es; Calle José Antonio González 2; s/d/ste incl breakfast €50/80/100; paW)
Palacio Buenavista Hospedería is a classy boutique hotel set in a 16th-century palace next to the Colegiata. Stylish rooms are positioned around a balconied central patio with historic columns; request a room with a castle view, if possible. There’s an excellent restaurant and a pretty outside terrace where the buffet breakfast is served (weather permitting).
8Information
Tourist Office (%967 17 07 41; www.turismocastillalamancha.es; Estación de Autobuses, Avenida Luis Pinedo Alarcón; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm) Can provide information on the village and surrounds and also assist with accommodation.
8Getting There & Away
There are daily buses to Belmonte from Cuenca (€7, 1¼ hours) and Madrid (€12, 2½ hours).
El Toboso
POP 1887
If you’re on the trail of Don Quijote, it’s practically obligatory to stop in the small village of El Toboso, home of the Knight Errant’s fictional sweetheart and one of the few places mentioned definitively by name in the book. So strong is the Quijote legend here that it is said that Bonaparte’s troops refused to torch the place during the Peninsula War in the early 19th century.
El Toboso has two decent Quijote-themed museums and a wonderful statue of the Don kneeling gallantly before La Dulcinea in the pretty main square. Surrounded by vineyards, it also sports some good bodegas and a couple of homey restaurants.
1Sights
Museo Cervantino MUSEUM
(%925 19 74 56; Calle de Daoíz y Velarde 3; adult/child €2/1; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sun)
This museum of over 300 books all with the same title (you’ve guessed it – Don Quijote) is more interesting than it sounds. Included among its well laid-out exhibits are copies of the Cervantes classic in braille and multiple languages, including Basque. There are also signed copies by notable personalities; look out for Nelson Mandela and – more chillingly – Adolf Hitler.
In an upstairs room, two short films (with English subtitles) relate the story of Don Quijote and how it relates to the La Mancha landscape.
Casa-Museo de Dulcinea MUSEUM
(%925 19 72 88; Calle Don Quijote 1; adult/child €3/1.50; h9.45am-1.45pm & 3-6.15pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
Since she was a fictional heroine and largely a figment of Don Quijote’s imagination, this museum is obviously not the real house of the famous Dulcinea del Toboso. Rather it once belonged to Ana Martínez Zarco de Morales, a women known to Cervantes who may have acted as a model for Dulcinea. Its aim is to evoke the spirit of Don Quijote and the book by displaying artefacts typical of the era.
Various rooms on two floors are set around a suitably bucolic patio where chickens roam. Look out for the distinctive blue and white Talavera ceramics in the kitchen.
Bodega Campos de Dulcinea WINERY
(%925 56 81 63; www.camposdedulcinea.es; Calle Garay 1; tours €6; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; p)
One of the longest standing wineries in town, the appropriately named Campos de Dulcinea has won numerous awards over the years; the tempranillo is a good constant bet if you want to make a purchase. Note, however, that tours of the bodega, along with wine tasting (with cheese), must be made in advance by phone or via the online contact form.
5Eating
Mesón La Noria de Dulcinea SPANISH€€
(%925 56 81 92; www.mesonlanoriatoboso.com; Calle Don Quijote; mains €12-20; hnoon-4pm & 8-11pm)
Looking like the kind of inn Don Quijote might have frequented can’t be a bad thing in El Toboso. There are no surprises in the cooking at Noria, which is 100% Manchegan. Expect excellent renditions of migas, roast lamb and partridge. The open courtyard looks like it has sprung straight from Cervantes’ imagination.
They also rent rooms in the village.
8Information
Tourist Office (%925 56 82 26; www.eltoboso.es; Calle de Daoíz y Velarde; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun) Has a handy town map with listed sights. Located on the western edge of town.
8Getting There & Away
There’s one daily bus to Toledo (€10, 2¼ hours) from Monday to Saturday run by Samar (www.samar.es).
Parque Natural de las Lagunas de Ruidera
This ribbon of 15 small lakes is surrounded by lush parkland, campgrounds, picnic areas, and discreetly situated restaurants and hotels. Turn off along the lakeshore in the town of Ruidera; along this road there are several places hiring pedalos, canoes and bikes, or offering horseriding to explore the area.
4Sleeping
Camping Los Batanes CAMPGROUND€
(%926 69 90 20; www.losbatanes.com; Laguna Redondilla; sites incl 2 people, tent & car €18-35, bungalows €55-130; pWs)
This leafy campsite overlooks Laguna Redondilla, one of the larger lakes here, and has excellent facilities with a small supermarket, restaurant, cafe and children’s playground, as well as two pools set amid pretty landscaped gardens. During the summer months there’s an entertainment program for children. Rates vary considerably according to the season.
oHotel Albamanjón HOTEL€€€
(%926 69 90 48; www.albamanjon.net; Calle Extramuros 16, Laguna de San Pedro; d €120-195; paW)
A great place to stay right on the shores of Laguna de San Pedro, 10km southeast of Ruidera. Running up the hill behind the main building, these attractive suites are all separate from each other and have a private terrace with lake views, wood fires for winter, and most have a Jacuzzi.
8Getting There & Away
There’s one daily bus (Monday to Saturday) linking Albacete and Ruidera (€9, 1½ hours). You really need your own transport to explore the park.
WORTH A TRIP
VILLANUEVA DE LOS INFANTES
Villanueva de los Infantes is an attractive and busy provincial town notable for its baroque and Renaissance architecture. It’s also rumoured to be the starting point of Don Quijote’s La Mancha wanderings. A highlight is its Plaza Mayor, with ochre-coloured buildings, wood-and-stone balconies, and lively bars and restaurants. On the square stands the 15th-century Iglesia de San Andrés, where 16th-century poet Francisco de Quevedo is buried. A prime location in the historic centre, just off the main square, makes La Morada de Juan de Vargas (%926 36 17 69; www.lamoradadevargas.com; Calle Cervantes 3; d €60-70; aW#) the best of the town’s several appealing rural hotel options. The decor is full of unique, arty touches and the hosts are exceptionally warm and inviting.
Buses run to Ciudad Real (€9, two hours) three times daily from Monday to Friday and once on Saturday.
Sierra de Alcaraz
Stretching across the southern strip of Albacete province, the cool, green peaks of the Sierra de Alcaraz offer a great escape from the dusty plains around Albacete. The gateway to the region, sleepy hilltop Alcaraz, has a lovely renaissance Plaza Mayor and a lattice of narrow cobbled streets. The most scenic countryside is to be found along the CM412, particularly between Puerto de las Crucetas (elevation 1300m) and Elche de la Sierra. And then there’s the spectacular Nacimiento del Río Mundo.
1Sights
Nacimiento del Río Mundo WATERFALL
(Source of the River Mundo; CM3204; h10am-dusk; p)
Take a photo of yourself standing in front of the Nacimiento del Río Mundo, send it to the folks back home and they will think that you have sidestepped to Niagara Falls for the day. To get to these amazing waterfalls, follow the signs just before Riópar for around 8km on the CM3204 – past the amusing pictorial ‘beware of the anfibios (amphibians)’ signs – until you reach the entrance and car park.
It’s a short walk through the forest of mainly coniferous trees to the bottom of the falls, where the water splashes and courses via several rock pools. There are two miradors: the first is at the base of the falls with neck-craning views of the dramatic waterfall above; it’s a steep climb to the second mirador, but worth the effort. At some 800m above sea level, the water emerges from the rocks just above the platform, almost close enough to touch, in a dramatic drop of some 24m (spraying you liberally en route). The falls are surrounded by dense forest stretching to a rocky horizon – all those sceptics who say La Mancha is flat and boring should definitely visit these falls.
4Sleeping
Mirador Sierra de Alcaraz HOTEL€
(%967 38 00 17; www.alcarazmirador.com; Calle Granada 1, Alcaraz; d €48-70; aW)
In the centre of Alcaraz, this handsome, mainly 16th-century building houses the Mirador Sierra de Alcaraz, with its central Moorish courtyard dating, incredibly, from the 9th century. The rooms have beamed ceilings, carved wooden bedheads and heavy period-style curtains and furnishings. All have good views and there is easy parking on the street outside.
Las Salegas del Maguillo HOTEL€€
(%660 24 96 92; www.lassalegasdelmaguillo.es; Carretera Riópar-Siles Km11; d €90, 4-/6-person apt €150/210; ps)
High up in the hills above the road 11km west of Riópar, beyond the Nacimiento del Río Mundo turn-off, this place consists of a collection of handsome stone buildings set amid the woods. Some of the villas have fireplaces and there is an outdoor swimming pool. It’s rustic, tranquil and comfortable.
5Eating
Restaurante Alfonso VIII GRILL€€
(%067 38 04 14; Calle Padre Pareja 1, Alcaraz; mains €10-15; h9am-midnight Tue-Sun)
Just off the town’s stunning Plaza Mayor, this time-tested favourite restaurant is housed in a handsome Renaissance-era building. The cuisine is strictly traditional with an emphasis on grilled meats (you can see the various cuts in a display cabinet at the entrance), served with slow-fried potatoes, rather than chips. Reservations are recommended at weekends.
8Getting There & Away
There are a couple of daily buses from Alcaraz to Albacete (€6.50, 1½ hours).
NORTHEAST CASTILLA–LA MANCHA
This region has a rich hinterland of craggy mountains and lush green valleys studded by unspoilt, pretty villages. It is also home to some of the country’s most enchanting pueblos and towns, including the provincial capital of Cuenca with its splendid medieval old town and refreshing lack of tourists.
Cuenca
POP 55,102
A World Heritage Site, Cuenca is one of Spain’s most memorable cities, its old centre a stage set of evocative medieval buildings, many painted in bright colours, stacked on a steep promontory at the meeting of two deep river gorges. Narrow meandering streets separate tall houses with wooden balconies that literally jut out over the sheer cliffs. Yet, despite its age and Unesco listing, Cuenca has somewhat ironically established itself as a vortex of abstract modern art. Two of its most iconic buildings – including one of the famed casas colgadas (hanging houses) – have transformed their interiors into modern galleries. It’s a theme continued in many of the town’s hotels, museums and restaurants.
Like many Spanish cities, the surrounding new town is bland and modern, so keep the blinkers on during the approach – up the hill lies another world.
Cuenca
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
oCasas Colgadas HISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Canónigos)
The most striking element of medieval Cuenca, the casas colgadas jut out precariously over the steep defile of Río Huécar. Dating from the 14th century, the houses, with their layers of wooden balconies, seem to emerge from the rock as if an extension of the cliffs. The best views of the casas colgadas is from the Puente de San Pablo footbridge. Today the houses host – somewhat improbably – an abstract art museum founded in the 1960s.
oMuseo de Arte Abstracto Español MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Museum of Abstract Art; %969 21 29 83; www.march.es/arte/cuenca; Calle Canónigos; adult/child €3/free; h11am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat, 11am-2.30pm Sun)
From the outside, they look as if they’ve been sawn off from some high-altitude Tibetan temple, but, from the inside, Cuenca’s famous casas colgadas have been transformed into a suite of airy, clean-lined galleries displaying some of central Spain’s finest abstract art. You can spend hours in here trying to decipher blurry Fernando Zóbel’s (the museum’s founder), bright and direct José Guerrero’s or the highly individual works of Catalan Antoni Tàpies.
oMuseo de la Semana Santa MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 22 19 56; Calle Andrés de Cabrera 13; adult/child €3/free; h11am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm Thu-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun, closed Aug)
This museum is the next best thing to experiencing one of Spain’s most spine-tingling Semana Santa parades firsthand. Spread over two floors, the hugely accomplished audiovisual show moves from room to room showing the processions by local brotherhoods against a background of sombre music. Afterwards you are allowed to wander around at leisure, admiring the costumes, crosses and religious iconography.
Catedral de Cuenca CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 22 46 26; Plaza Mayor; adult/child €4.80/free, incl Museo Diocesano adult/child €8/free; h10am-7.30pm)
Lured in by the impressive old-looking facade (it was actually cleverly rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in 1902), Cuneca’s cathedral is well worth a visit. It was built on the site of the main mosque after the city’s reconquest by Alfonso VIII in 1177. Highlights include the magnificent Renaissance doorway leading to the cloisters and the chapter house artesonado (wooden) ceiling painted in pastel colours. The striking abstract stained-glass windows were added in the 20th century.
Túneles de Alfonso VIII TUNNEL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Alfonso VIII; guided tour €3.50, minimum 4 people; hhours vary)
A mole hill of tunnels lies under Cuenca’s old town. Over time they have served multiple purposes as aqueducts, crypts and, most recently, air-raid shelters during the civil war. The tunnels have been restored and fitted with walkways, lighting and explanatory boards. Tours are guided only (in Spanish) and must be booked through the main tourist office.
Cerro del Socorro HILL
(Cerro del Socorro)
This hill across the Río Huécar gorge from Cuenca’s old town is crowned by a giant statue of Christ, which is illuminated at night. A 3km trail marked by the 14 Stations of the Cross follows a zigzag route to the top. It starts just behind the Parador de Cuenca.
Fundación Antonio Pérez GALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 23 06 19; www.fundacionantonioperez.es; Ronda de Julián Romero 20; adult/child €2/free; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm)
This huge modern-art gallery in the labyrinthine ex–Convento de las Carmelitas is a typical Cuenca synthesis of old and new. Stuffed with exhibits that may perplex, inspire and (possibly) amuse, it is large, but crammed. Antonio Saura is well represented, as are plenty of other 1950s and ’60s-era artists. Included in the collection are two works by renowned American pop artist Andy Warhol.
Mirador Barrio del Castillo VIEWPOINT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Larga)
Climb to the top of the old town for this fine viewpoint over Cuenca and its plunging gorges. You can also catch bus number 2 from the new town which stops close by.
Museo de Paleontología MUSEUM
(%969 27 17 00; Río Gritos 5; adult/child €3/1.50, Wed afternoon & Sun free; h10am-2.30pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Sat; 10am-2.30pm Sun; c) S
Cuenca’s former Ars Nature has been transformed into a streamlined palaeontology museum anchored by its appropriately kid-friendly dinosaur exhibition (‘Tierra de Dinosaurios’). Spacious modern galleries are decorated with locally found fossils, skeletons and skulls, plus mock-ups of enormous Jurassic reptiles. There are some fun audiovisual exhibits and the landscaped grounds are home to more prehistoric giants that kids can pose beside for that ultimate photo op for show-and-tell back home.
Museo de Cuenca MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 21 30 69; Calle Obispo Valero 12; adult/child €3/free, Wed afternoon & weekends free; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
The city’s history museum is comprehensive, but heavily weighted towards the pre-medieval age. The story kicks off in the Bronze Age, but the real scoop is Sala 7, stuffed with original Roman statues (including Emperor Augustus), plus columns and pediments plucked from the nearby archaeological sites at Segóbriga and Valeria. Post-Renaissance history gets only a light dusting.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
ABSTRACT CUENCA
One of the latent joys of this historical city that hangs surreally above two dramatic gorges is the way it has managed to incorporate avant-gardism into its crusty historic core.
Cuenca’s penchant for abstract art can be traced back to the 1950s, when a loose collection of locally based artists formed what became known as the ‘Cuenca School’. Notable in the group was Fernando Zóbel, a Spanish-Filipino painter and art collector who got together with Cuenca-born engineer-turned-artist Gustavo Torner in 1966 to open the Museo de Arte Abstracto inside the town’s famous hanging houses. It was an inspired choice. Encased in a historical medieval residence, beautifully laid-out exhibits made use of reconfigured minimalist rooms. The museum prospered and others followed. In 1998 Sigüenza-born artist and poet Antonio Pérez opened up an eponymous foundation in an old Carmelite monastery and stuffed it with works from Warhol to Antoni Tàpies. Seven years later, Torner founded his own museum, Espacio Torner, in Cuenca’s San Pedro convent (the museum is currently on extended hiatus due to funding issues).
But the abstractness extends beyond traditional museums. The brilliant yellow and orange stained glass in Cuenca’s 12th-century cathedral was fashioned by Torner in the early 1990s to create a whimsical hybrid, while, further down the hill in the new town, the concrete and glass Museo de Paleontología, with its cube-like display halls, pays more than a passing nod to avant-gardism. You’ll even spot abstract influences in the decor of some of Cuenca’s hotels and restaurants, the arty interiors of which often belie their medieval outer shells.
zFestivals & Events
Semana Santa RELIGIOUS
(www.juntacofradiascuenca.es; hEaster)
Cuenca’s Holy Week celebrations are renowned throughout Spain for the eerie, silent processions through the streets of the old town. There’s even a town museum dedicated to the annual event.
4Sleeping
oPosada Huécar HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 21 42 01; www.posadahuecar.com; Paseo del Huécar 3; s/d €35/48; paW)
Feel luxurious on a tight budget. Located squarely between the old and new towns, this attractive hotel has spacious rooms with river views, rustic furnishings and bathrooms with tubs, as well as showers and excellent water pressure. Packaged breakfast pastries and coffee are included in the price. There are bicycles to rent (€20 for one day). There is generally free parking available across the street.
Hostal Tabanqueta HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 21 40 76; www.hostaltabanqueta.com; Calle Trabuco 13; d €45, apt €50-100; paW)
Up the hill from Plaza Mayor, this friendly spot has free parking nearby and top-of-the-town views. The accommodation is excellent, with heating, stylish tiled bathrooms, attractive artwork and hotel-standard amenities such as toiletries, an espresso machine and hospitality tray with pastries. The owners also rent out a number of apartments nearby.
oPosada de San José HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 21 13 00; www.posadasanjose.com; Ronda de Julián Romero 4; s/d €60/85, d with view €97, s/d with shared bathroom €32/45; aiW)
Owned by Antonio and his Canadian wife Jennifer, this 17th-century former choir school retains an extraordinary monastic charm with its labyrinth of rooms, eclectic artwork, uneven floors and original tiles. All rooms are different; cheaper ones are in former priests’ cells and share bathrooms, while more costly doubles combine homey comfort with old-world charm. Several have balconies with dramatic views of the gorge. There’s a reputable restaurant on the ground floor.
Convento del Giraldo HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 23 27 00; www.hotelconventodelgiraldo.com; Calle de San Pedro 12; d/ste €66/125; aiW)
Just above the cathedral, this conversion of a 17th-century convent wins points for location and style, though there aren’t too many original features left. Nevertheless, the attractive rooms feature dark wooden furniture and big bathrooms, and many sport great views. You can find good discounts online.
CH Victoria Alojamientos HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %620 782937; www.grupochvictoria.es; Calle Mateo Miguel Ayllón 2; s €25-45, d €50-80; pW)
Blurring the lines between hostal and hotel, the rooms at this excellent place offer every comfort, with stylish decoration, modern bathrooms, firm mattresses and plenty of thoughtful extras. There’s no reception, so you’ll need to book in advance and arrange to pick up the key.
Hostal San Pedro HOSTAL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %628 407601, 969 23 45 43; www.hostalsanpedro.es; Calle de San Pedro 34; s/d €40/70; W)
In this excellently priced and positioned hostal, rooms have butter-coloured paintwork, traditional tiles, wrought-iron bedheads and rustic wood furniture and shutters; the bathrooms are large and modern. The owners run the restaurant Mangana on Plaza Mayor, so you can enquire there or call ahead.
Parador de Cuenca HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 23 23 20; www.parador.es; Calle de Hoz de Huécar; s/d €100/175; paWs)
This majestic former convent commands possibly the best views in town of the casas colgadas that are suspended on the opposite side of the gorge. The revamped rooms have a luxury corporate feel, while the public areas, including an old cloister, are headily historic with giant tapestries and antiques.
5Eating
oEl Bodegón SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 21 40 29; Cerrillo de San Roque A1; mains €7-10, set menu €10; h1-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun; W)
No frills, great value, lightning-fast service. Up a narrow lane in the new town, this sociable bar could turn out to be the Castilla-La Mancha eating experience that lingers longest in your memory. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a long, slow lunch. Try the excellent-value menú del día.
Posada de San Julián SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 21 17 04; Calle de las Torres 1; mains €7-12, set menu €11; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun)
Just down the hill from the historic centre, revel in 16th-century surroundings with lofty ceilings, original columns and creaking floors. It’s family run (get here early and you will see grandpa peeling potatoes), and the cuisine may not be art-on-a-plate but it’s tasty, filling and excellent value with huge portions and market-fresh produce.
Asador María Morena SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 23 88 25; www.asadormariamorena.com; Calle Larga 31; mains €17-20; h1-4pm & 8-11pm)
A good all-round restaurant located at the top of the old town with panoramic views over the river gorge, this place will satisfy both romantic diners and those seeking a more casual evening meal. Everything from the black paella (with squid ink) to homey patatas a lo pobre (potatoes with onions, garlic and peppers) are enhanced with a deft artistic touch.
El Secreto SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %678 611301; www.elsecretocuenca.com; Calle de Alfonso VIII 81; mains €10-17; h11am-4.30pm Mon & Tue, 11am-4.30pm & 8pm-midnight Thu-Sun; W)
El Secreto isn’t much of a secret. Exuberant decor featuring painted beams and tiled murals coupled with a friendly, laid-back attitude means this place stays pretty busy. There’s a good selection of pastas, salads and meat dishes, including an unorthodox venison burger, all of which can be savoured in the back dining room (with vistas) or the painfully thin front bar.
La Bodeguilla de Basilio TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 23 52 74; Calle Fray Luis de León 3; raciones €10-13; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)
Arrive here with an appetite, as you’re presented with a complimentary plate of tapas when you order a drink, and not just a slice of dried-up cheese – typical freebies are a combo of quail eggs and fried potatoes or a bowl of caldo (meat-based broth). Zarajos (barbecued lamb served on a skewer), a traditional Cuenca dish, is also a speciality here. This is one of the most popular tapas bars in the new town so get here early to grab a pew.
Understandably, it gets packed out, so head to the restaurant at the back for specials such as patatas a lo pobre or lamb chops. The walls are covered with fascinating clutter, ranging from old pics of Cuenca to farming tools.
oRaff San Pedro MODERN SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 69 08 55; www.raffsanpedro.es; Ronda de Julian Romero; mains €18-25, set menus €27-36; h1-4pm & 8.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun; W)
Tucked down a narrow pedestrian street near the cathedral, Raff’s innovative culinary convictions run deep with lively fresh flavours and combinations like tomatoes stuffed with scallop cerviche and stuffed gnocchi made with yams. The set menus are an excellent way to taste a variety of contemporary-style dishes, although there is nothing nouvelle about the generous portion size.
oRomera Bistrót INTERNATIONAL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %626 087832; www.romerabistrot.com; Calle de los Tintes 19; mains €18-25; hnoon-3pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat; W) S
Bikes, truffles, sashimi…sound interesting so far? Romero is one of Cuenca’s new breed of contemporary restaurants with a short menu that’s all over the map: salmon sashimi, black spaghetti and a foie-gras royale. Everything is executed perfectly in a 10-table, light-filled space that carries the air of a Parisian bistro. To add to the atmosphere (and perhaps the sustainability) there are bike motifs – including (sometimes) bike-shaped pasta.
oFigón del Huécar SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 24 00 62; www.figondelhuecar.es; Ronda de Julián Romero 6; mains €13-25, set menus €26-36; h1.30-3.30pm & 9-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm Sun; W)
With a romantic terrace offering spectacular views, Figón del Huécar is a highlight of old-town eating. Roast suckling pig, lamb stuffed with wild asparagus, and a host of Castilian specialities are presented and served with panache. The house used to be the home of Spanish singer José Luis Perales.
6Drinking & Nightlife
La Tasca del Arte BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %969 16 01 95; www.la-tasca-del-arte.es; Calle Fray Luis de León 9; h1pm-2am)
Head to the tasca (tapas bar) here to enjoy live flamenco in an intimate atmosphere where tapas and drinks are also served, including an impressive number of imported and craft beers. Performances take place from 9pm Thursday to Saturday but space is limited so get here early to grab a table. The restaurant also receives rave reviews from readers.
8Information
Main Tourist Office (%969 24 10 51; http://turismo.cuenca.es; Calle de Alfonso VIII 2; h10am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun) Book here for tours of the medieval Túneles de Alfonso VIII that honeycomb the old town.
Tourist Office (%969 23 58 15; http://turismo.cuenca.es; Avenida de la República Argentina 4; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Cuenca’s second, slightly smaller tourist office is in the new town. It’s open somewhat reduced hours on weekends in winter.
8Getting There & Away
Cuenca has two train stations. Fast AVE trains (serving Valencia and Madrid) use the modern Estación de Cuenca-Fernando Zóbel (%912 43 23 43; www.renfe.com; Avenida Cerro de la Estrella; h6.45am-10.30pm), 6km southwest of town. Bus 12 (€1.25, every 30 minutes) links it with the town centre.
The regional train station Estación de Cuenca (%912 32 03 20; www.renfe.com; Calle Mariano Catalina 10; hticket office 8.30am-9.15pm) is located in the new part of town, southwest of Calle de Fermín Caballero and across from the bus station.
Numerous daily trains run to Madrid, ranging from slow regionales (trains operating within one region, usually stopping all stations; €15, three hours) to swift AVEs (€35, 55 minutes). The other way, to Valencia, is a similar deal (€16 to €38).
There are up to nine buses daily to Madrid (€15, 2¼ hours) and regular services to other cities in Castilla-La Mancha including Toledo (€14.50, 3¼ hours) and Albacete (€12, 2¾ hours).
8Getting Around
Local buses 1 and 2 do the circuit from the new town to Plaza Mayor (€1.20, every 30 minutes), stopping outside the Estación de Cuenca-Fernando Zóbel. There’s a large free car park on Calle Larga above the arch at the top of the old town.
WORTH A TRIP
SERRANÍA DE CUENCA
Head out from Cuenca 30km via the CM2105 to the extraordinary Ciudad Encantada (Carretera CM2104, Km 19; adult/child €5/free; h10am-sunset; p), where limestone rocks have been eroded into fantastical shapes by nature. The CM2105 continues north via the picturesque village of Uña, the crystal-clear waters of Embalse del Tobar and past the Reserva Natural de El Hosquillo, a protected park where reintroduced brown bears roam wild.
You can return to Cuenca via the CM210, a quiet rural route that passes several traditional villages like Priego, a lovely valley town that dates from Roman times. If you’re heading on to Sigüenza, track northeast from Beteta to Molina de Aragón, a pretty town utterly dominated by one of Spain’s most spectacular castles.
Pastrana
POP 1054
Pastrana should not be missed. It’s an unspoilt place with twisting cobbled streets flanked by honey-coloured stone buildings, with small family-owned shops, good restaurants and atmospheric bars with tables on the cobblestones. It is famous for a notorious 16th-century court scandal as well as being home to some magnificent Flemish tapestries.
1Sights
The heart and soul of the town is the Plaza de la Hora, a large square framed by acacias and fronted by the sturdy Palacio Ducal. It’s in Pastrana that the one-eyed princess of Éboli, Ana Mendoza de la Cerda, was confined in 1581 for having a love affair with the Spanish king Felipe II’s secretary. You can see the caged window of her ‘cell’, where she died 10 years later, and join a tour on Saturday at 11.30am (Spanish only; €6) run from the tourist office.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción & Museo Parroquial MUSEUM
(Colegiata; %949 37 00 27; www.museoparroquialdetapicesdepastrana.com; Calle Mayor; adult/child €5/free; h11.30am-2pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Fri, 1-2pm & 4.30-7pm Sun)
Walk from the Plaza de la Hora along Calle Mayor and you’ll soon reach the massive Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Inside, the interesting little Museo Parroquial contains the jewels of the princess of Éboli, some exquisite 15th-century Flemish tapestries and even an El Greco.
Parque Arqueológico de Recópolis ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(Roman ruins; %949 37 68 98; www.recopolis.com; Carretera de Almoguera, Zorita de los Canes; adult/child €5/2.50; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun; p)
Recópolis, a fascinating archaeological site, is a rarity. It was one of possibly only four cities that were built during the Visigothic era in Western Europe. Founded by King Leovigildo in AD 578, it was originally conceived as a rival to Constantinople (the dream soon faded). The site is equipped with an interpretive centre that offers guided tours around the ruins, which lie 13km south of Pastrana, signposted off the Tarancón road (turn right just after passing the nuclear power plant).
4Sleeping
Hotel Palaterna HOTEL€
(%949 37 01 27; www.hotelpalaterna.com; Plaza de los Cuatro Caños 4; r/ste €65/95; aW)
Hotel Palaterna is a pleasant, modern hotel overlooking a small square complete with bubbling fountain. Rooms are painted in cool colours with pretty fabrics and light wood furniture.
5Eating
oCenador de las Monjas SPANISH€€
(%949 37 01 01; www.cenadordelasmonjas.es; Calle de las Monjas; mains €12-20, set menus €35-40; h2-4pm & 9-11pm Fri & Sat, 2-4pm Sun; p)
The dining room in the old 16th-century San José monastery offers beautifully prepared Spanish food that is anything but austere. Sit under a wood-beamed ceiling, overlooked by oil paintings of severe-looking nobility and indulge in venison meatballs or tuna with a honey glaze. Abiding by monastic tradition, most of the vegetables are grown here.
8Information
Tourist Office (%949 37 06 72; www.pastrana.org; Plaza de la Hora 5; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
8Getting There & Away
Pastrana is 42km south of the regional capital of Guadalajara along the CM200. If travelling by public transport from either Madrid or Cuenca, you’ll need to take a bus or train to Guadalajara, from where there’s a daily bus run by Guadalbus (www.guadalbus.com) to/from Pastrana (€6, 1¼ hours).
Sigüenza
POP 4335
Sleepy, historical and filled with the ghosts of a turbulent past, Sigüenza is well worth a detour. The town is built on a low hill cradled by Río Henares and boasts a castle, a cathedral and several excellent restaurants set among twisting lanes of medieval buildings. Start your ambling at the beautiful 16th-century Plaza Mayor. It’s a popular day trip from Madrid.
Sigüenza
1Top Sights
1Sights
1Sights
oCatedral de Santa María de Sigüenza CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %619 362715; www.lacatedraldesiguenza.com; Plaza del Obispo Don Bernardo; h9.30am-2pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sat, noon-5.30pm Sun)
Rising up from the heart of the old town is the city’s centrepiece – the cathedral. Begun as a Romanesque structure in 1130, work continued for four centuries as the church was expanded and adorned. The largely Gothic result is laced with elements of other styles, from plateresque through to Renaissance to Mudéjar. The church was heavily damaged during the civil war (note the pockmarks from bullets and shells in the bell tower), but was subsequently rebuilt.
The dark interior has a broodingly ancient feel and some fine stained glass, plus an impressive 15th-century altarpiece. To enter the chapels, sacristy and Gothic cloister, you’ll need to join a Spanish-language guided tour (per person €7; noon, 1pm, 4.30pm and 5.30pm Tuesday to Sunday). A highlight of the tour is the Capilla Mayor, home of the reclining marble statue of Don Martín Vázquez de Arce (the statue is named El Doncel), who died fighting the Muslims in the final stages of the Reconquista.
Particularly beautiful is the Sacristía de las Cabezas, with a ceiling adorned with hundreds of heads sculpted by Covarrubias. The Capilla del Espíritu Santo’s doorway combines plateresque, Mudéjar and Gothic styles; inside is a remarkable dome and an Anunciación by El Greco.
Castillo de Sigüenza CASTLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.parador.es; Plaza del Castillo; p)
Calle Mayor heads south up the hill from the cathedral to a magnificent-looking castle, which was originally built by the Romans and was, in turn, a Moorish alcázar (fortress), royal palace, asylum and army barracks. Virtually destroyed during the Spanish Civil War, it was subsequently rebuilt under Franco as a parador.
Non-guests are welcome to wander in and use the cafeteria and other general areas, which overlook a beautiful courtyard.
4Sleeping
oEl Doncel HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %949 39 00 01; www.eldoncel.com; Paseo de la Alameda 3; d €60-70; aW)
With earthy colours, exposed stone, spot lighting, fridges (for the cava), and marshmallow-soft duvets and pillows, this place is aimed squarely at couples on a romantic weekend away from Madrid. It’s comfortable and attractive, and there’s an excellent restaurant. Prices drop substantially midweek.
Parador de Sigüenza HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %949 39 01 00; www.parador.es; Plaza del Castillo; d €110-185; paW)
Sigüenza’s luxurious parador is set in the castle, which dates back to the 12th century and overlooks the town. The magnificent courtyard is a wonderful place to pass the time. The rooms have period furnishings and castle-style windows, so they can be on the dark side; ask for one with a balcony to make the most of the natural light and views.
5Eating
oCalle Mayor SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %949 39 17 48; www.restaurantecallemayor.com; Calle Mayor 21; mains €12-18; h1-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm)
A standout meal stop between the cathedral and castle, be sure to order the simple starter of tomatoes which are grown in the owner’s backyard. Mains here tend to be traditional with local roasted meats, such as goat and lamb, as well as more elaborate creations like artichokes stuffed with prawns. The service is gracious and English is spoken.
Bodega Sigüenza SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %949 39 32 46; www.bodegasiguenza.es; Calle Mayor 41; mains €12-14, set menu €27; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11pm Thu-Sun)
Offers a limited menu of traditional Castilla-La Mancha recipes in a small but pleasantly intimate space near the castle. A speciality is callos (tripe), but they also serve more familiar (for some) mains, like burgers with sundried tomatoes and creamy Manchego cheese.
Gurugú de la Plazuela TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %949 39 01 34; www.gurugudelaplazuela.com; Plazuela de la Cárcel; mushroom dishes €16-19; h12.30-4pm & 8-11pm Thu-Sat, 12.30-4pm Sun)
Overlooking the small, atmospheric Plazuela de la Cárcel, the speciality of this historical tavern is mushrooms – lots of them – with some 16 varieties on the menu, prepared all sorts of ways. Other choices include a nice line in game dishes. It holds regular art and photography exhibitions in the traditionally tiled dining space.
Nöla MODERN SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %949 39 32 46; www.nolarestaurante.es; Calle Arcedianos 20; mains €15-32, set menu €26; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Thu-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm Sun; W)
Nöla is located in a grand Gothic Mudéjar mansion so is a place to linger. The menu stirs up traditional cuisine in the most delightful and innovative ways with dishes like salmorejo (tomato and bread purée) with spider crab and fresh bean sprouts and roasted lamb with hazelnuts.
8Information
Tourist Office (%949 34 70 07; www.turismocastillalamancha.es; Calle de Serrano Sanz 9; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-2pm & 4-8pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sun) Just down the hill from the cathedral. Opens and closes an hour later in the afternoon in summer.
8Getting There & Away
Regional trains go to Madrid’s Chamartín station (€12 to €14, 1½ to 1¾ hours, five daily) via Guadalajara; some go on to Soria in the other direction.
Atienza
POP 444
Standing amid the ruins of Atienza’s blustery castle and looking out at the arid plains and low hills that couldn’t be anywhere but Spain is one of Castilla-La Mancha best memory souvenirs. The diminutive but romantically atmospheric town doesn’t get a lot of foreign visitors, but is a great place to come at weekends (when its museums actually open!) for some aimless wandering centred on the main half-timbered square. Atienza is situated 30km northwest of Sigüenza and its hilltop castle is visible for miles around.
1Sights
The main half-timbered square and former 16th-century market place, Plaza del Trigo, is overlooked by the Renaissance Iglesia San Juan Bautista, which has an impressive organ and lavish gilt retablo (altarpiece). It is a stunning square, although would be even more picture-perfect without the cars parked here. Three of the diminutive but muscular Romanesque churches hold small museums (open weekends only).
Museo de San Gil MUSEUM
(%949 39 99 04; Plaza de Don Agustín González Martínez Sacerdote, Iglesia de San Gil; admission €2; h11.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun)
This beautifully laid out museum is in the Romanesque Iglesia de San Gil. The church itself is perhaps the main ‘exhibit’ with its Mudéjar ceiling and plateresque door. Lined up in its naves you’ll find religious art along with small sections on archaeology (arrowheads mainly) and palaeontology (fossils).
Castillo Roquero CASTLE
(Camino de San Salvador; hsunrise-sunset; c) 
F
Now that’s what you call a castle! Looking like a natural extension of the crag upon which it sits, Atienza’s romantically dishevelled castillo has Roman, Visigothic and Moorish antecedents. It was finally wrested from the Moors by Christian king Alfonso VI in 1085 and is now a windy ruin enjoying fabulous views over the surrounding meseta (plains).
4Sleeping
Hostal El Mirador HOSTAL€
(%949 39 90 38; www.elmiradordeatienza.com; Calle Barruelo; s/d €30/45; paW)
El Mirador, with spotless rooms that are a steal at this price, is a budget option in a modern whitewashed building offering great panoramic views over the fields below. The excellent restaurant shares the vistas and serves creative dishes, as well as the standard cordero (lamb) and cabrito (kid).
oAntiguo Palacio de Atienza HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%949 39 91 80; www.palaciodeatienza.com; Plaza de Agustín González 1; d €55-85; paWs)
Want to stay in a palace skilfully updated with well-chosen artworks, comfortable beds and exposed beams fine enough to satisfy the expectations of modern-day princes and princesses (and tourists)? The variation in price relates to the size of the room and whether there’s a hot tub in the stylish little bathrooms. Balconies overlook the lawns and pool, and there’s a good restaurant.
La Casa de San Gil CASA RURAL€€
(%626 165544; www.lacasadesangil.com; Plaza de Don Agustín González Martínez Sacerdote 1; r €70-80; pW)
This traditional 18th-century stone cottage is located in the shadow of the Iglesia de San Gil and has been aesthetically restored by its madrileño (residents of Madrid) owners. Each of the five rooms is different but all are soothingly decorated with earth colours and rustic charm. There’s a sitting room with fireplace and pretty small garden.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
CAMINO TO ATIENZA
Buses serving the hilltop-hugging town of Atienza are a little thin on the ground; but, for those with strong legs, there’s a viable alternative. You can walk to the town on a little-trekked southern branch of the Camino de Santiago through a quintessential Castillan landscape of arid hills punctuated by half-forgotten, semiabandoned villages.
A well-signposted 32km section of the route connects the two historic towns of Sigüenza and Atienza, passing through the pinprick but atmospheric villages of Palazuelos, Olmeda de Jadraque and Riofrío del Llano.
To get started, exit Sigüenza via Calle Santa Bárbara, passing a football field and crossing a railway line. Then, take the unpaved, vehicle-width track uphill and follow the purple and yellow ‘Camino’ signs decorated with the famous scarab symbol. The well-marked path is good year-round (weather permitting), but, whichever season you hike, take plenty of food and water. The villages along the way offer little in the way of refreshment.
8Information
Tourist Office (%949 39 90 01; www.atienza.es; Calle Héctor Vázquez 2; h11am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun) Contains a small museum displaying local costumes and paraphernalia relating to the town’s customs and festivals.
8Getting There & Away
Buses are scant. A couple leave early in the morning, bound for Madrid (€12, 2¾ hours) and Sigüenza (€4, 45 minutes).
Alarcón
POP 160
One hundred kilometres or so south of Cuenca is the seductive medieval village of Alarcón. Flanked on three sides by the Río Júcar forming a natural moat, the approach is via a narrow road winding through three medieval defensive arches. The most famous sight here is the triangular-based Islamic castle, dating from the 8th century and captured by the Moors in 1184 after a nine-month siege. It is now a parador – one of Spain’s smallest. The surrounding countryside is stunning and popular for hiking.
4Sleeping & Eating
oParador de Alarcón HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(Marqués de Villena; %969 33 03 15; www.parador.es; Avenida Amigos de los Castillos 3; d from €195; paW)
Parador de Alarcón is one of the grand castle paradores found throughout the country, so you might as well go the whole hog and reserve a room with a four-poster bed and a chaise longue. Regal it might be, but this is actually one of Spain’s smallest paradores with just 24 rooms. Historic, but intimate.
La Cabaña de Alarcón SPANISH€€
(%969 33 03 73; www.restaurantelacabanadealarcon.es; Álvaro de Lara 21; mains €12-16, set menu €18; h1-4pm & 8.30-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun; W)
The best restaurant in town is La Cabaña de Alarcón, with its picture windows, dark-pink paintwork, contemporary artwork and well-executed local dishes with an emphasis on game and grilled meats.
8Information
Tourist Office (%969 33 03 01; Calle Posadas 6; h10am-2pm Tue-Sat) Stop here for a map of walks around the village and beyond. If it’s closed, there are detailed signboards with maps nearby.
8Getting There & Away
There’s one daily bus to Cuenca (€4.50, 1½ hours) run by Rubiocar (www.rubiocar.com). There’s a large free car park at the foot of the village.
Imón
POP 40
This tiny gem of a hamlet, located 16km northwest of Sigüenza, has a surprising amount on offer, including sophisticated places to stay and eat (for weekending madrileños), a spa complex affiliated with the Salinas de Imón, and excellent walking and birdwatching potential.
1Sights
Don’t miss the salt-extraction pans a short stroll away along the Sigüenza road; with the crumbling buildings around them as a backdrop, there are some great photo opportunities here. The pans were abandoned in 1996.
For an easy walk, follow Don Quijote’s path at the end of the main street (Calle Cervantes), heading north. The 4.5km pleasant stroll through fields leads to a 15th-century castle, La Riba de Santiuste, perched high on a rock above the semi-abandoned village of the same name. The castle is partly in ruins and is fascinating to explore.
Imón is also at the heart of the migratory destination for a large number of bird species, including the black stork, golden eagle and black-winged kite.
4Sleeping
La Botica BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%949 39 74 15; www.laboticahotelrural.com; Calle Cervantes 40; d €70-80; aWs)
La Botica is a former chemist with six romantic rooms – nay, ‘suites’ – that come equipped with Jacuzzis; some also have balconies and fireplaces. There’s an outdoor pool, salubrious terrace and a restaurant where they serve excellent breakfasts and dinners. There’s even a little museum honouring the building’s previous incarnation.
Salinas de Imón HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%949 39 73 11; www.salinasdeimon.com; Calle Real 49; d €95-145, ste €195; paWs)
Salinas de Imón is housed in a mid-17th-century stone building. It has 13 rooms, restored with sensitive integrity, that retain a sense of history. Luxurious bathrooms and a secluded, lovely garden with lawns, a bower and a pool add appeal. There’s also an affiliated spa offering massages and other therapies.
8Getting There & Away
Imón is 16km northwest of Sigüenza along the CM110. Public transport is effectively nonexistent.