Aragón
Zaragoza
Central Aragón
Fuendetodos
Tarazona
The Aragón Pyrenees
Huesca
Riglos & Around
Sos del Rey Católico
Valles de Hecho & Ansó
Santa Cruz de la Serós
Jaca
Valle del Aragón
Valle de Tena
Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido
Torla
Valle de Bujaruelo
Aínsa
Benasque
Upper Benasque Valley & the Maladeta Massif
Alquézar
Somontano Wine Region
Southern Aragón
Daroca
Laguna de Gallocanta
Teruel
Albarracín
Villages of Aragón
Aragón
Why Go?
Probably Spain’s most underrated region, Aragón offers riches wherever you travel, from the crusader-like castles and Romanesque churches of the north to the outstanding Mudéjar architecture of Teruel in the south. The regional capital, Zaragoza, is a major Spanish city of ebullient nightlife and absorbing culture (not least the work of local artistic genius Francisco de Goya), while dozens of picturesque medieval villages dot the serrated landscape, from pink-hued Albarracín to stone-clothed Sos del Rey Católico. But above all, what sets Aragón apart is the majesty of the central Pyrenees along its northern fringe. This is the highest and, for many, most beautiful section of the mighty mountain range – a rare delight for the eyes and a massive natural adventure playground with not only Spain’s finest hiking and climbing but also much of its best skiing, canyoning, rafting and paragliding.
When to Go
- May–Jun & Sep–Oct Best temperatures for enjoying Zaragoza and the rest of lowland Aragón.
- Jun–Oct The best months for hiking in the spectacular Aragón Pyrenees.
- Oct Zaragoza’s Fiestas del Pilar combine the sacred with the city’s famed love of revelry.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Aragón Highlights
1 Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido Hiking through spectacular mountainscapes in the Pyrenees.
2 Albarracín Exploring this village’s pink-hued houses and medieval history.
3 Zaragoza Discovering monuments and one of the country’s best tapas and bar scenes.
4 Valles de Hecho and Ansó Meandering through Pyrenean valleys of forests and ancient villages.
5 Teruel Admiring the superb Mudéjar architecture and fine eating in the provincial capital.
6 Alquézar Plunging down canyons and rambling along quaint village streets.
7 Benasque Getting outdoorsy around this stone village, the gateway to the Pyrenees’ highest peaks.
8 Jaca Enjoying some top tapas bars in this lively Pyrenees gateway town.
History
Aragón came into existence as a tiny Christian bridgehead on the southern flank of the Pyrenees after the Muslim invasion of the Iberian Peninsula in the 8th century. Over the following centuries it grew into one of the strongest kingdoms on the peninsula as it expanded southward and then, in 1137, was united by royal betrothal with the neighbouring county of Barcelona (the combined kingdom-county is known as the Crown of Aragón). It was the marriage of the future Aragonese king Fernando II to his powerful Castilian counterpart Isabel in 1469 that effectively gave birth to modern Spain as we know it.
ZARAGOZA
POP 661,000 / ELEV 200M
The ethereal image of the multi-domed Basílica del Pilar reflected in the Río Ebro is a potent symbol of Zaragoza, one of Spain’s most underrated regional capitals. There’s plenty more fine architecture here too, including a turreted castle with an interior like a mini-Alhambra, and some very creatively displayed underground Roman remains, but Zaragoza’s appeal goes well beyond its monuments. Spain’s fifth-largest city (and home to more than half of Aragón’s 1.3 million residents), it has one the best tapas and bar scenes in the country and is well stocked with the epoch-defining art of local lad Francisco de Goya, the genius painter who was born a short horse ride away in 1746.
The historic centre (between the Río Ebro, Calle del Coso and Avenida César Augusto) is refreshingly almost traffic-free, including the vast, 400m-long Plaza del Pilar alongside the famous basilica.
FOLLOW THE GOYA TRAIL
Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes, better known simply as Goya, was born in Aragón and his work can be seen all over his native region.
A Museo Goya – Colección Ibercaja, Zaragoza
A Casa Natal de Goya, Fuendetodos
A Museo del Grabado de Goya, Fuendetodos
A Museo de Zaragoza, Zaragoza
A Museo de Huesca, Huesca
A Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, Zaragoza
History
The Romans founded Caesaraugusta (from which ‘Zaragoza’ is derived) in 14 BC. As many as 25,000 people migrated to the city whose river traffic brought the known world to the banks of Río Ebro. The city prospered for almost three centuries, but its subsequent decline was confirmed in AD 472 when the city fell to the Visigoths. In Islamic times, Zaragoza was capital of the Upper March, one of Al-Andalus’ frontier territories. In 1118, it fell to Alfonso I, ruler of the expanding Christian kingdom of Aragón, and immediately became Aragón’s capital. In the centuries that followed, Zaragoza grew into one of inland Spain’s most important economic and cultural hubs and a city popular with Catholic pilgrims. It is now Spain’s fifth-largest city and, since the 2008 Expo, has greatly improved its modern infrastructure.
Zaragoza
5Eating
1Sights
oBasílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar CHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.basilicadelpilar.es; Plaza del Pilar; 
h6.45am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 6.45am-9.30pm Sun)
Brace yourself for this great baroque cavern of Catholicism. The faithful believe that here on 2 January AD 40, the Virgin Mary appeared to Santiago (St James the Apostle) atop a pilar (pillar) of jasper, and left the pillar behind as testimony of her visit. A chapel was built around the pillar, followed by a series of ever more grandiose churches, culminating in the enormous basilica.
A lift (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Torre; adult/child €3/free; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar) whisks you most of the way up the basilica’s northwest tower from where you climb to a superb viewpoint over the domes and city.
Originally designed in 1681 by local architect Felipe Sánchez y Herrera, the basilica was greatly modified in the 18th century by the royal architect Ventura Rodríguez, who added the ultra-baroque Santa Capilla at the east end (housing the legendary pillar), and the flurry of 10 colourfully tiled mini-domes that surround the main dome on the roof.
The famous pillar is topped by a 15th-century Gothic sculpture of the Virgin and child, and is concealed inside an elaborate silver casing which is itself usually three-quarters hidden by the long mantle in which the Virgin image is dressed (except on the 2nd, 12th and 20th of each month). A tiny oval-shaped portion of the pillar is exposed in the passage on the chapel’s outer west side and a steady stream of people line up to brush lips with its polished and cracked cheek, which even popes have air-kissed. Parents also line up from 1.30pm to 2pm and 6.30pm to 7.30pm to have their babies blessed next to the Virgin. More than the architecture, these sacred symbols, and the devotion they inspire, are what make this church special.
Hung from the northeast column of the Santa Capilla are two shells that were lobbed at the church during the civil war. They failed to explode. A miracle, said the faithful; typical Czech munitions, said the more cynical.
The basilica’s finest artwork is the 16th-century alabaster retablo mayor (main altarpiece) by Damián Forment, facing west in the middle of the basilica. There are also two Goyas: La Adoración del Nombre del Dios, on the ceiling of the coreto (small choir) at the church’s far east end, is an early classical piece from 1772; vastly different is Regina Martirum painted above the north aisle in 1780 (in the third cupola from the east). With its blurry impressionistic figures, it was hugely controversial at the time.
oLa Seo CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Catedral de San Salvador; 
%976 29 12 31; www.zaragozaturismo.es; Plaza de la Seo; adult/senior/child €4/3/free; h10am-6.30pm & 7.45-9pm Mon-Thu, 10am-6.30pm Fri, 10am-noon, 3-6.30pm & 7.45-9pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Oct, 10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm mid-Oct–mid-Jun)
Dominating the eastern end of Plaza del Pilar, La Seo is Zaragoza’s finest work of Christian architecture, built between the 12th and 17th centuries and displaying a fabulous spread of styles from Romanesque to baroque. It stands on the site of Islamic Zaragoza’s main mosque (which itself stood upon the temple of the Roman forum). The admission price includes La Seo’s Museo de Tapices (MAP GOOGLE MAP; open same hours as the cathedral), a collection of Flemish and French tapestries considered the best of its kind in the world.
The cathedral’s northeast external wall is a Mudéjar masterpiece, deploying classic brickwork and colourful ceramic decoration in complex geometric patterns. Inside, beautiful fan vaulting adorns the ceiling while the chapels, framed by encrusted stonework, ring the changes from the eerie solemnity of the Capilla de San Marcos to the golden baroque baldachin of the Capilla del Santo Cristo. The exquisite 15th-century alabaster high altarpiece is well worth scrutiny too.
Alma Mater Museum MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %976 39 94 88; www.almamatermuseum.com; Plaza de la Seo 5; €3; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
Church museums can sometimes be boring emporiums of anonymous sacred art, but not this one. Slick multimedia exhibits set an arty tone, which is continued as you navigate through a skilfully laid-out trajectory that takes in the older elements of the building (a former royal and episcopal palace), learning about Roman forums, the venerated Virgen del Pilar and Aragonese history (especially church history). The top floor is a Renaissance feast with paintings by the two local Franciscos: Goya and Bayeu.
oMuseo Goya – Colección Ibercaja MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %976 39 73 87; http://museogoya.ibercaja.es; Calle de Espoz y Mina 23; adult/senior & child €4/free, audio guide or tablet €2; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-2pm & 4pm-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Nov-Mar)
Apart from Madrid’s Museo del Prado, this exceedingly well-laid-out museum contains arguably the best exposé of the work of one of Spain’s most revered artists. Each of the three floors has a different focus, the 2nd floor being the one that exhibits Goya’s own work. Four complete sets of his prints are included, most notably the ground-breaking, sometimes grotesque Desastres de la Guerra (Disasters of War), a bitter attack on the cruelty and folly of war.
oAljafería PALACE
(%976 28 96 83; www.cortesaragon.es; Calle de los Diputados; adult/student & senior/child €5/1/free, Sun free; h10am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Apr-Oct, 10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Nov-Mar)
The Aljafería is Spain’s finest Islamic-era edifice outside Andalucía. Built as a fortified palace for Zaragoza’s Islamic rulers in the 11th century, it underwent various alterations after 1118 when Zaragoza passed into Christian hands. In the 1490s the Reyes Católicos (Catholic Monarchs), Fernando and Isabel, tacked on their own palace. From the 1590s the Aljafería was developed into more of a fortress than a palace. Twentieth-century restorations brought it back to life, and Aragón’s regional parliament has been housed here since 1987.
Inside the main gate, cross the rather dull introductory courtyard into the Patio de Santa Isabel, once the central courtyard of the Islamic palace. Here you encounter the delicate interwoven arches typical of the geometric mastery of Islamic architecture. Opening off the stunning northern portico is a small, octagonal oratorio (prayer room) with a superb horseshoe-arched doorway leading into its mihrab (prayer niche indicating the direction of Mecca). The finely chiselled floral motifs, Arabic inscriptions from the Quran and a pleasingly simple cupola are fine examples of Islamic art.
Moving upstairs, you pass through rooms of the Palacio Cristiano Medieval, created mostly by Aragonese monarchs in the 14th century, followed by the Palacio de los Reyes Católicos (Catholic Monarchs’ Palace) which, as though by way of riposte to the Islamic finery beneath it, contains some exquisite Mudéjar coffered ceilings, especially in the lavish Salón del Trono (Throne Room).
Spanish-language tours take place several times a day, and there are two daily tours each in English and French in July and August. The palace is often closed Thursday, Friday morning or Sunday afternoon in non-peak times.
Museo Origami MUSEUM
(%876 03 45 69; www.emoz.es; Centro de Historias, Plaza San Agustín 2; adult/student & senior €3/2; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun; 
c)
This museum devoted to the art of folding paper has six galleries of permanent and temporary exhibitions of a staggeringly high standard. It attracts worldwide interest from origami aficionados. If you’re not very familiar with the art, you will probably be amazed by what you see.
Museo de Zaragoza MUSEUM
(www.museodezaragoza.es; Plaza de los Sitios 6; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) 
F
Devoted to archaeology and fine arts, the city museum displays artefacts from prehistoric to Islamic times, with some exceptional mosaics from Roman Caesaraugusta. The upper floor contains 19 paintings by Goya and more than two dozen of his prints. It’s 400m south of the Teatro Romano.
RESERVATIONS
Aragón has a full sweep of accommodation from boutique B&Bs and luxury paradores to hostels, campgrounds, mountain refuges, hostales (budget hotels), tourist apartments and casas rurales (rural houses with rooms for tourists). In the Pyrenees, you’ll generally find some accommodation in or around even the smallest villages.
Reservations are advisable for all kinds of accommodation in July and August and during other major holiday periods such as Semana Santa and local festivals. Some mountain refuges get booked up three months ahead for these times: for reservations see www.alberguesyrefugiosdearagon.com.
zFestivals & Events
oFiestas del Pilar RELIGIOUS
(hOct)
Zaragoza’s biggest event is a week of full-on celebrations (religious and otherwise). Festivities peak on 12 October, the Día de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, when a veritable mountain of flowers is piled up around the Virgin’s image from the basilica, brought out on to Plaza del Pilar, by hundreds of thousands of devotees, many in colourful regional or national dress.
4Sleeping
oHotel Sauce HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %976 20 50 50; www.hotelsauce.com; Calle de Espoz y Mina 33; s €43-49, d €46-70; 
a
W)
This stylish small hotel with a great central location is a superb option not just for its fresh, cheerful, contemporary rooms with tasteful watercolours, but also for its outstandingly friendly and helpful staff, pleasant 24-hour cafe serving excellent breakfasts, cakes and cocktails – and not least for its prices, which are very reasonable given everything that the hotel provides.
The Bridge HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %627 307932; www.thebridgerooms.es; Calle de San Vicente de Paul 30; s €36-45, d €38-60; W)
New in 2017, the Bridge has a friendly, hostel-like atmosphere, though at research time all rooms were private (a small dorm and a kitchen were due to be added). The dozen or so rooms have pleasing, bright, practical but stylish design, tea/coffee makers, minibars, and individual welcome messages. The cheaper doubles share toilets but have their own shower and washbasin.
Albergue de Zaragoza HOSTEL€
(%976 28 20 43; http://behostels.com; Calle Predicadores 70; incl breakfast dm €16-18, d/tr with shared bathroom €35/45; a
iW)
This large, popular hostel offers the choice of neat, clean, small private rooms or mixed dorms for four to 10 people with metal bunks. All share clean bathrooms. The special feature here is the brick-vaulted basement, known as La Bóveda, where varied live music (with a bar) happens a couple of times a week.
Hotel Pilar Plaza HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %976 39 42 50; www.hotelpilarplaza.es; Plaza del Pilar 11; s €57-72, d €60-75, breakfast €9; aW)
The Goya museum might be around the corner, but this basilica-facing hotel prefers to exhibit edgier art by the likes of Banksy (a copy of his Girl with a Balloon decorates the staircase). The 50 rooms are stylish, comfy, shiny and almost boutique-ish in whites, blacks and greys, with a few more ornate touch such as chandeliers.
Catalonia El Pilar HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %976 20 58 58; www.hoteles-catalonia.com; Calle de la Manifestación 16; s/d from €72/78, breakfast €14; aiW)
Ten out of 10 for the facade, a handsome Modernista construction that has been artfully renovated to house this eminently comfortable contemporary hotel. Inside, rooms are spacious and decorated in restful, muted earth tones with elegant marble-clad bathrooms. Some of the beds are king-size.
CAESARAUGUSTA – A CITY UNDERGROUND
Underneath modern Zaragoza’s streets lies a parallel universe little known to unversed outsiders. It tells the story of Caesaraugusta, the Roman city founded in 14 BC that flourished as one of Hispania’s most illustrious and strategically important colonies.
Left to rot as medieval Zaragoza grew up around it, Caesaraugusta lay buried and forgotten for more than 1500 years. Not until the 1980s and 90s were its crumbled remnants resuscitated – and given new life in a brilliant quartet of museums. Hidden in four subterranean exhibition spaces are the Museo del Foro de Caesaraugusta (%976 72 12 21; www.zaragozaturismo.es; Plaza de la Seo 2; adult/student/senior & child €3/2/free; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun), the excavated substructures of the Roman city’s forum; the Museo del Puerto Fluvial (Plaza de San Bruno 8; adult/student/senior & child €3/2/free; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun), erstwhile river port installations; the Museo de las Termas Públicas (Roman Baths; Calle San Juan y San Pedro 3-7; adult/student/senior & child €3/2/free; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun), public baths; and – best of all – the Museo del Teatro de Caesaraugusta (%976 72 60 75; www.zaragozaturismo.es; Calle de San Jorge 12; adult/student/senior & child €4/3/free; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun), showcasing a 6000-seat theatre that was one of the largest in Hispania.
While the ruins might be, well, ‘ruins’ compared to better preserved Roman sites in Mérida and Tarragona, the genius of Zaragoza’s museums lies in their layout and creative extras. Well-curated exhibition chambers combine mock-ups of how things used to look with clever multimedia exhibits. The pièce de résistance is the Roman theatre, protected by a huge polycarbonate roof and perhaps best viewed through panoramic windows from its adjacent museum.
A joint ticket is available for all four museums (adult/student/child €7/5/free) and is a fantastic investment. Situated in close proximity to each other, the museums can all easily be visited in the same day.
5Eating
Head to the quadrangle of lanes known as El Tubo, north of Plaza de España, for one of Spain’s richest gatherings of tapas bars. This is a quintessential Zaragoza experience and a bubbling scene any night of the year. Just wander round and see what takes your fancy: many bar staff speak English and/or French.
Café Nolasco CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/cafenolasco; Calle San Jorge 18; breakfast items & cakes €2.50-4.50, set menus Mon-Fri €11, Sat €15; h8.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-2.30am Fri, 10.30am-2.30am Sat, 10.30am-11pm Sun; W)
This stylish, clean-lined spot, overlooking a pretty old-town plaza and with a wall of plants in the front room, fulfils many roles – it’s great for breakfasts, tasty lunches, evening drinks in a club/lounge atmosphere, and coffee and wi-fi with tempting cakes any time of day!
Birosta VEGETARIAN€
(www.birosta.com; Calle Universidad 3; dishes €5-9; h11am-11pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jul, from 6.30pm Aug; W
v)
Birosta is an excellent, cooperatively run vegetarian restaurant-cafe-bar with, like most of the Magdalena barrio (neighbourhood) in which it’s situated, an alternative, animal-rights, ecological vibe. Lunch is served in the neat, green-and-white dining room from 1.30pm to 4pm, and dinner from 8.30pm. Dishes range from pizza, moussaka or dolmades to rice, tofu and pasta offerings, all well prepared and presented.
El Limpia TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Cuatro de Agosto 17; raciones €5-16; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Wed-Sun)
A tightly squeezed hubbub of a bar where you place your order then wait for the barman’s bellow to tell you it’s ready. The papapico (minced pork and potatoes in a spicy mojo picón sauce) is celebrated, but there’s plenty more on offer including wild-mushroom risotto, tablas (boards) of ham and/or cheese, or tostadas (topped toast slices) of wild-boar pâté.
Los Xarmientos ARAGONESE€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %976 29 90 48; www.facebook.com/xarmientos; Calle de Espoz y Mina 25; mains €12-16, set menus €15-27; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Wed-Sat, 1.30-4pm Tue & Sun)
Aragonese meat dishes are a speciality at this artfully designed restaurant. It styles itself as a parrilla, meaning the dishes are cooked on a barbecue-style grill. It’s a fine place to sample the local ternasco (lamb), Aragon’s most emblematic dish, accompanied by a good Somontano wine and perhaps preceded by a spinach and goat’s-cheese salad…or even some snails?
Casa Lac TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %976 39 61 96; www.restaurantecasalac.es; Calle de los Mártires 12; mains €16-27, tapas €1.50-7, set menus €30-41; h1-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)
The grande dame of Zaragoza dining, Casa Lac opened in 1825 and is reputedly Spain’s oldest licensed restaurant. The cuisine today is tastily contemporary whether you go for ‘gastro-tapas’, a set menu or à la carte. The ground-floor bar is smart but relatively casual; an elegant staircase leads to the more formal upstairs dining room.
La Clandestina Café CAFE€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %876 28 11 65; Calle San Jorge 4; brunch €15, light dishes €6-15; h10am-midnight Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; Wv)
There’s an eye-catching huge pair of red lips painted on one white brick wall, but this place is as much about gastronomy as style, particularly in the brunch (11.30am to 3.30pm, includes a glass of cava) and coffee-and-cake departments. It’s a popular cocktail spot too – and the cold-pressed juices (including an orange-lime-lemon-ginger combo) are divine on a hot day.
WHAT’S COOKING IN ARAGÓN?
The kitchens and tables of Aragón are dominated by meat, which may come in inventive combination with other ingredients in numerous gastro establishments, or in good old-fashioned grilled, roast or stewed form in more traditional restaurants.
The region’s cold, harsh winds create the ideal conditions for curing jamón (ham), a top tapa here; some of the best comes from the Teruel area, which has its own DO (Denominación de Origen; quality-certified producing region). Hearty ternasco (suckling lamb) is generally served roasted or as ribs with potatoes – a good place to try it is Los Xarmientos in Zaragoza.
Aragón’s local cheeses, 130 varieties of them, should be tried wherever you go – those of Albarracín, Tronchón and Benasque are among the most highly rated.
With France just up the road, it’s no surprise, perhaps, that caracoles (snails) are another Aragonese speciality. Try them!
The Aragonese love their baked goods too: anywhere from Zaragoza northwards, look out for trenza de Almudévar, a long, bread-like cake made from flour, egg yolks, butter, almonds, walnuts and raisins, with its strands woven together like plaits (trenzas).
Vegetarians should seek out alubias pochas (a tasty white-bean stew with peppers, tomatoes and onion) – one place you’ll find it is La Cocina del Principal in Sos del Rey Católico. Plant-based eaters might be tempted to base their entire holiday at Posada Magoría, a rare vegan guesthouse, in the Pyrenees village of Ansó.
6Drinking & Entertainment
After the tapas bars close around midnight, late-night and music bars come into their own. There’s a good scattering of these in the historic centre. You can find live music somewhere almost any night except perhaps in quieter July and August. Pick up the free what’s-on guide Go! (www.laguiago.com).
Café Botánico CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle de Santiago 5; h9am-10.30pm Sun-Wed, 9am-11.30pm Thu, 9am-3am Fri & Sat; W)
Café Botánico combines a florist with a greenery-decked cafe serving great coffee, teas, tostadas (toast slices with various toppings), cocktails and some truly delicious cakes. Thanks in part to its central location, it is perennially popular.
Rock & Blues Café BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Cuatro de Agosto 5-7; h4pm-2am)
Rock ’n’ roll paraphernalia, paying homage to the likes of Jimi Hendrix and the Beatles, set the tone for the music and style of this long-standing favourite. There’s live pop, rock or blues most Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays around 9.30pm. It’s a popular and atmospheric spot.
Oasis CLUB
(%976 43 95 34; www.salaoasis.es; Calle de Boggiero 28; cover from €6; hmidnight-6am Fri & Sat)
A few streets west of the old centre, Oasis began life long ago as a variety theatre. It’s currently going strong as a club and is a top place to carry on partying after the bars quieten down around 3am or 4am. It also hosts occasional live concerts and theme parties.
Libertad 6.8 BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/libertad.terraza; Calle de la Libertad 6-8; h8pm-1am Tue-Thu, 1pm-2am Fri & Sat, 1-6pm Sun & Mon)
A fashionable, half-open-air space situated in El Tubo serving 20 types of gin and plenty of other cocktails. The bar also offers meals.
8Information
Municipal Tourist Office (%976 20 12 00; www.zaragozaturismo.es; Plaza del Pilar; h10am-8pm; W) Has branch offices around town, including at the train station.
Oficina de Turismo de Aragón (%976 28 21 81; www.turismodearagon.com; Plaza de España 1; h9.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm) Helpful place with plenty of brochures covering all of Aragón.
8Getting There & Away
Trains and buses share the futuristic Estación Intermodal Delicias (Avenida de Navarra 80), 3km west of the city centre.
AIR
Zaragoza Airport (%976 71 23 00; www.zaragoza-airport.com), 10km west of the city, has Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flights to/from London (Stansted), Brussels (Charleroi), Milan (Bergamo) and Paris (Beauvais, March to October).
BUS
Dozens of bus lines fan out across Aragón and Spain from the bus station (%976 70 05 99; www.estacion-zaragoza.es) in the Estación Intermodal Delicias.
Alosa (%974 21 07 00; www.avanzabus.com) Runs 14 or more daily buses to Huesca (€7.80, 1¼ hours) and six or more to Jaca (€16, 2½ hours).
ALSA (%902 422242; www.alsa.es) Buses to/from Madrid (from €16, three to four hours, 19 or more daily) and Barcelona (from €16, 3¾ hours, 16 or more daily).
Autobuses Jiménez (www.autobusesjimenez.com) Four or more daily buses to Teruel (€11, 2¼ hours).
Conda (www.conda.es) Eight or nine daily buses to Pamplona (€16, two to 2½ hours).
TRAIN
Renfe (%91 232 03 20; www.renfe.com) runs trains all over Spain from the Estación Intermodal Delicias (Avenida de Navarra 80). Around 20 daily high-speed AVE services whizz to Madrid (€21 to €55, 1½ hours) and Barcelona (€23 to €60, 1¾ hours). Further direct AVE services head to Seville (€59 to €68, 3¾ hours, two or three daily) and Huesca (€9 to €15, 45 minutes, one or two daily). Some slower, mostly cheaper trains also serve Barcelona, Madrid and Huesca. Two or three Huesca trains continue to Jaca (€15, 3¼ hours) and Canfranc-Estación (€16, four hours) in the Pyrenees. Four daily trains run to Teruel (€15 to €20, 2½ hours).
WORTH A TRIP
THE CIVIL WAR RUINS OF BELCHITE
The haunting remains of Belchite village, 45km southeast of Zaragoza, which was reduced to ruins in a fierce civil war battle in 1937, were left unreconstructed after the war. The Pueblo Viejo de Belchite (Belchite Old Village; Belchite; tour €6) ruins are now fenced off but popular guided tours (in Spanish, with English, French and German audio guides available) are given two or three times daily by the Belchite tourist office (%976 83 07 71; http://belchite.es; Calle Becú, Pueblo Nuevo de Belchite; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sep-Jun, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Jul & Aug), next to the church in Belchite’s new village nearby. At any time you can view the ruins from outside the fence.
The battle of Belchite in August 1937 saw the Republicans drive out the Nationalists from the village, with thousands killed. The Nationalists later retook Belchite (and won the war). They ordered that the village be left in its ruined state and had a new village built by Republican prisoners next door. The ruins include four churches from the 18th century or earlier (two of them attached to convents and one of which little remains except its Mudéjar clock tower).
8Getting Around
BUS
Bus 501 (%902 30 60 65) runs between Paseo María Agustín 7 and the airport (€1.85, 45 minutes) via Delicias station every half-hour (hourly on Sunday).
Bus 34 (€1.35) runs from the Estación Intermodal Delicias to Avenida César Augusto near the Mercado Central (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Central Market; Avenida de César Augusto; h9am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat). To return to the station, catch it westbound on Calle Conde Aranda about 100m west of César Augusto.
BICYCLE
Zaragoza is flat and has a good network of bike lanes and streets with speed limits of 30kph. You can rent bikes at La Ciclería (%876 16 73 56; http://lacicleria.com; Calle Gavín 6; per 2/4/8/24/48hr €6/8/12/15/22; h9am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun Sep-Jul, 10am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun Aug) and Bicicletas La Pomada (Zaragoza en Bici; %876 03 62 69; www.lapomadabikestore.com; Calle Manifestación 17; per 2/5/12hr €5/6/15 Mon-Fri, €5/6/18 Sat; h9am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat).
CENTRAL ARAGÓN
Central Aragón is dominated by the flat valley of the Río Ebro, which meanders across the region west to east. Outside Zaragoza, the main settlements of interest lie to the west (principally Tarazona) and south. Most of the towns here fell to the Christian armies later than those in the north, meaning you’ll spot a heavier sprinkling of Mudéjar architecture. This is also Goya country: he was born in the village of Fuendetodos (45km south of Zaragoza), where you can visit his birthplace and a museum with collections of his prints.
Fuendetodos
POP 125
Casa Natal de Goya MUSEUM
(www.fundacionfuendetodosgoya.org; Plaza de Goya; incl Museo del Grabado de Goya adult/student & senior/child €3/2/free; h11am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun)
This humble birthplace of Goya was owned by his family until the early 20th century, when it was purchased by the Basque painter Ignacio Zuloaga. Destroyed during the civil war, the house was subsequently restored with furniture and exhibits relating to Goya’s life and times.
Inside, you can view the austere 18th-century kitchen, the room where Goya was born in 1746, and a large wall display illustrating his family tree.
In a house located next door, the Sala Zuloaga (admission is included in the ticket price) has temporary exhibitions of mainly graphic art.
Museo del Grabado de Goya MUSEUM
(www.fundacionfuendetodosgoya.org; Calle Zuloaga 3; incl Casa Natal de Goya adult/student & senior/child €3/2/free; h11am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun)
Situated just one hundred metres along the street from Goya’s birthplace, this museum contains an important collection of the artist’s engravings. There are four series, including the famously satirical Los Caprichos and the bullfighting-themed La Tauromaquia.
8Getting There & Away
One or two buses daily head to Fuendetodos (€6.75, one hour) from Zaragoza.
Tarazona
POP 10,330 / ELEV 480M
A pleasant stop or detour between Zaragoza and the Basque Country or Castilla y León, Tarazona rewards the curious with an intriguing earth-toned labyrinth of an old town (that has a medieval Jewish quarter in its midst) situated above the little Río Queiles, a large and fascinating Gothic and Mudéjar cathedral, and the bizarre Cipotegato festival, when a brave local dressed as a harlequin gets pelted with tomatoes by boisterous crowds every August.
1Sights
oCatedral Santa María de la Huerta CATHEDRAL
(www.catedraldetarazona.es; Plaza de la Seo; adult/student & senior/child €4/3/free; h11am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun Apr-Sep, 11am-2pm & 4-6pm Wed-Fri, to 7pm Sat, to 2pm Sun Oct-Mar)
This magnificent cathedral dates from the 13th century but was much modified in later centuries. It reopened in 2011 after 30 years of restoration work (still ongoing), which has uncovered previously hidden treasures. The cathedral’s French-Gothic origins are evident in the vaulting and pointed arches of the nave; Mudéjar influences permeate the intricate masonry of the tower and dome; Renaissance artwork adorns the Capilla Mayor; and the baldachin over the exterior main portal is a flight of baroque fancy.
Ayuntamiento ARCHITECTURE
(Town Hall; Plaza de España)
The town hall’s 16th-century facade is a storybook of sculpture. The larger carvings depict mythical beings (you’ll spot Hercules on the left). Running along the full 35m length is a frieze of hundreds of miniature mounted and walking figures, showing the parade for the papal coronation of Spanish King Carlos I as Holy Roman Emperor in Bologna in 1530.
Palacio Episcopal PALACE
(Bishop’s Palace; Plaza Palacio; adult/child €1.50/free; h11.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 11.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-6.30pm Sun Apr-Sep, 11.30am-2.30pm Wed-Fri & Sun, 11.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sat Oct-Mar) F
On the site of a Muslim citadel and, subsequently, the residence of several Aragonese kings, the imposing Bishop’s Palace was completed in the mid-16th century after well over a century of construction.
The exterior has a striking series of perfectly proportioned arches, while highlights within include a pretty Renaissance patio, an outstanding series of 16th-century episcopal portraits and a magnificent Mudéjar coffered ceiling (two more Mudéjar ceilings are missing – purchased by William Randolph Hearst for his California ‘castle’ in the early 20th century).
Judería AREA
Tarazona has one of Spain’s best preserved Jewish quarters, overlooked by the casas colgadas (hanging houses) of Calle Conde, which jut out over the streets below. While there are no monuments to visit as such, you can take an informed stroll around the Judería with the aid of a map from the tourist office and/or explanatory boards in situ.
More than 70 Jewish families lived here from the 12th to the 15th centuries, in a tight web of streets around Calle Judería and Rúa Alta de Bécquer.
zFestivals & Events
Cipotegato CULTURAL
(h27 Aug)
In a country known for its bizarre festivals, Tarazona’s Cipotegato takes the weirdness to a new level. The star of the show is a hapless harlequin dressed in red, green and yellow, who emerges from Ayuntamiento at noon on 27 August and runs through the streets while getting pelted with tomatoes by practically everyone in town.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal Santa Águeda HOSTAL€
(%976 64 00 54; www.santaagueda.com; Calle Visconti 26; incl breakfast s €41-50, d €54-63; aW)
Just off Plaza San Francisco, this 200-year-old home has attractive old-style rooms with wooden beams and a cheery decor. The little breakfast room and the lobby are a glorious shrine to local girl Raquel Meller, Aragón’s queen of popular song during the early 20th century. You’ll hear her crooning over your croissants.
Hotel Condes de Visconti HOTEL€€
(%976 64 49 08; www.condesdevisconti.com; Calle Visconti 15; r €59-69, ste €79-110; aW)
Beautiful rooms, mostly with colourful individual decor, plus a preserved Renaissance patio, make this 16th-century former palace a fine stopover. It also has a cafe and good old-fashioned service. Breakfast costs €5.50.
Saboya 21 ARAGONESE€€
(%976 64 24 90; www.restaurantesaboya21.com; Calle Marrodán 34; mains €14-20; h1-4pm Sun-Thu, 1-4pm & 9.30-11pm Fri & Sat; W)
Talented chef José Tazueco whips up a selection of culinary treats that zap traditional ingredients with a creative flair. Expect artistically presented dishes such as duck breast with liquorice or endives with smoked salmon, kefir and dill. It’s perched above the busy Cafetería Amadeo I. Reservations recommended.
WORTH A TRIP
THE DIY FRESCO
The small town of Borja, 23km southeast of Tarazona, attracted worldwide attention in 2012 after an 81-year-old amateur artist botched the restoration of a 20th-century religious painting called Ecce Homo in a nearby church. The result (subsequently dubbed ‘potato Jesus’) went viral on the internet and, ironically, has brought the area a welcome boom in tourism. Visitors still flock to view the painting, which has been reproduced on advertising banners and copied by pop artists. Potato Jesus aside, the 15th-century shrine where the painting resides, Santuario de la Misericordia (La Muela Alta de Borja; €2; h11am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Apr-Sep, 10.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-7pm Oct-Mar), is located on a pleasant hillside perch 6km northwest of Borja. While there you can look into the adjoining El Caserón, a 16th-century hostel for visitors to the shrine, and pick up an Ecce Homo T-shirt or jigsaw – or even a bottle of Ecce Homo wine (DO Campo de Borja).
8Information
Tourist Office (%976 64 00 74; www.tarazona.es; Plaza San Francisco 1; tours €5-8; h9.30am-2.30pm & 4-7pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Oct-Mar) Offers guided tours of the historic centre and main monuments, in Spanish, on Saturdays and Sundays.
8Getting There & Away
Five or more Therpasa (%976 30 00 45; www.therpasa.es) buses run daily to/from Zaragoza (€7.90, 1½ hours) and Soria (€5.90, 1¼ hours).
THE ARAGÓN PYRENEES
As you leave behind central Aragón’s parched flatlands, a hint of green tinges the landscape and there’s a growing anticipation of very big mountains somewhere up ahead. The Aragonese Pyrenees reach well over the 3000m mark and, together with their counterparts on the French side, form the heart of the range, with much of its most magnificent scenery. Viewed from the south, their crenellated ridges fill the northern horizon wherever you turn. The verdant river valleys are dotted with charming old stone-built villages, and the whole region forms a giant adventure playground to which Spaniards, and French neighbours – but surprisingly few other foreigners – flock not only for the wonderful walking but also for a host of other exciting activities from climbing and skiing to white-water rafting and canyoning.
Huesca
POP 51,450 / ELEV 465M
The hard-working provincial capital of Huesca doesn’t delay most travellers too long, but while here you can blow the dust off Spain’s oldest grocery store, visit a multifarious museum juxtaposing Goya prints with a medieval royal palace, and take an eye-opening lesson in Gothic and Romanesque architecture courtesy of two outstanding churches.
1Sights
oIglesia de San Pedro El Viejo CHURCH
(www.sanpedroelviejo.com; Plaza de San Pedro; adult/child €2.50/1.50; h10am-1.30pm & 4.30-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-12.15pm & 1-2pm Sun)
The church of San Pedro is one of the oldest and most important Romanesque structures in Spain, dating from the early 12th century. It’s particularly notable for its hexagonal tower, its open cloister adorned with 38 beautifully carved Romanesque capitals (in some cases 19th-century copies), and the mausoleum containing the tombs of two Aragonese kings (and brothers), Alfonso 1 (r 1104–34) and Ramiro II (r 1134–37).
Catedral de Santa María CATHEDRAL
(www.museo.diocesisdehuesca.org; Plaza de la Catedral; adult/senior & student/child €4/2/free; h10.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat)
This Gothic cathedral is one of Aragón’s great surprises. The richly carved main portal dates from 1300, the attached Museo Diocesano contains some extraordinary frescos and painted altarpieces, and the stately interior features a superb, 16th-century alabaster retablo (altarpiece) by Damián Forment showing scenes from Christ’s crucifixion. To round off your visit, climb the 180 steps of the bell tower for 360-degree views all the way to the Pyrenees.
Museo de Huesca MUSEUM
(Plaza Universidad 1; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) F
The city museum with its pretty courtyard contains a well-displayed collection covering the archaeology of Huesca province, and progressing on to early modern art, including eight works by Goya. The museum also incorporates a 12th-century Aragonese royal palace, one chamber of which (now with suitably spooky sound-effects) is believed to have been the scene of a gruesome episode known as La Campana de Huesca (Bell of Huesca), in which King Ramiro II had 13 uncooperative nobles decapitated.
4Sleeping & Eating
La Posada de la Luna BOUTIQUE HOTEL€
(%974 24 17 38; www.posadadelaluna.com; Calle Joaquín Costa 10; s €46-51, d €46-60; 
paW)
This attractive little eight-room hotel achieves a whimsical contemporary yet historical effect, juxtaposing century-old floor tiles and antique-style murals with designer bathrooms and hydromassage showers, in rooms themed on different celestial bodies. It’s a comfortable place with a degree of charm, although some rooms are on the small side.
Hostal Joaquín Costa HOSTAL€
(Hostal Un Punto Chic; %974 24 17 74; www.hostaljoaquincosta.com; Calle Joaquín Costa 20; s €37-51, d €42-66; aW)
The well-kept rooms are of the white-and-black minimalist school, in some cases enlivened by pleasing murals and/or encouraging inscriptions (eg Kipling’s If, in Spanish, engraved on the glass shower wall). Bathrooms are good and modern; rooms are smallish or medium-sized; and it’s a convenient and comfy place to stay.
oTatau Bistro TAPAS€€
(%974 04 20 78; www.tatau.es; Calle Azara; dishes €5-25; h1-3.30pm & 8-10.45pm Tue-Sat; W)
This hugely popular central gastro-bar has a unique style with besuited staff, 1950s-inspired decor with framed pin-ups and posters, and tapas-bar-style seating at a few tables or along the bar. The seasonally changing menu of very tasty offerings ranges from the small and relatively simple (meat croquettes) to the more ambitious likes of duck with pears and liquorice or octopus-and-aubergine cannelloni.
El Origen ARAGONESE€€
(%974 22 97 45; Plaza del Justicia 4; set menus €17-40; h1.15-3.30pm & 9-11pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 1.15-3.30pm Sun) 
S
Ignore the inauspicious setting on this somewhat drab modern square as this restaurant is an oasis of elegance and fine dining, with set menus that vary from traditional Aragonese to more innovative and contemporary. Sustainable produce is used as far as possible. Reservations recommended.
8Information
Tourist Office (%974 29 21 70; www.huescaturismo.com; Plaza López Allué 1; h9am-2pm & 4-8pm) Excellent office providing information on all of Aragón; it runs tours of Huesca’s historic centre (adult/senior and student/child €5/2.50/free) daily from July until mid-September, and on weekends at other times.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
From the Estación Intermodal (Calle Gil Cávez 10), Alosa (%974 21 07 00; www.avanzabus.com) runs buses to/from Zaragoza (€7.80, 1¼ hours, 14 or more daily), Jaca (€7.80, 1¼ hours, six daily), Barbastro (€4.60, 50 minutes, six or more daily), Barcelona (€17, four hours, five daily) and Benasque (€13, 2¾ hours, once on Sunday, twice other days).
TRAIN
Six to eight trains a day run to/from Zaragoza: one or two are high-speed AVE services (from €7.85, 40 minutes), continuing to/from Madrid (from €22, 2¼ hours); the rest are regional trains (€7.15, one to 1¼ hours). There are two or three regional trains to/from Jaca (€8.25, 2¼ hours) and Canfranc-Estación (€11, 2¾ hours).
WORTH A TRIP
THE CASTILLO DE LOARRE
The agricultural village of Loarre, 30km northwest of Huesca, is famous for one reason – the Castillo de Loarre (www.castillodeloarre.es; adult/senior or student/child €4.50/4/3; h10am-8pm Jun-Sep, 10am-7pm Mar-May & Oct, 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Feb), a multi-towered Reconquista-era castle looming on the hillside a 5km drive (or 2km uphill walk) above the village.
The 11th-century fortress, reminiscent of a crusader castle, was raised by Sancho III of Navarra and expanded by Sancho Ramírez of Aragón. There’s plenty to see, including a Romanesque chapel and crypt, and you can climb to the upper levels of the two main towers.
If you want to stay, there’s a hotel in a 16th-century building on the village’s central square, and a popular campground halfway between village and castle.
One or two Alosa buses link Loarre with Huesca (€3.05, 40 minutes) Monday to Friday. Timings don’t enable a one-day return trip from Huesca, however.
Riglos & Around
POP (RIGLOS) 80 / ELEV (RIGLOS) 650M
Little Riglos, 43km northwest of Huesca, sits at the foot of Los Mallos de Riglos, a set of awe-inspiring rock towers that dwarf the village and wouldn’t look out of place in the Grand Canyon. Los Mallos are a popular challenge for serious rock climbers – and popular too with large numbers of huge griffon vultures.
For those who prefer to keep their feet on non-vertical terrain, a circular walk of about 2½ hours, the Camino del Cielo, takes you around the top side of Los Mallos from Riglos.
The village of Murillo de Gállego on the A132, 2.5km southwest of Riglos across the Río Gállego (10km by road or a 45-minute walk), is a busy centre for rafting and kayaking beneath the gaze of Los Mallos. Several companies offer half-day trips (per person from €40) from March to September.
There are several casas rurales (rural houses adapted for tourist accommodation) and hostales in both villages, plus a year-round climbers’ hostel in Riglos.
Riglos is on the Zaragoza–Canfranc rail line, between Huesca (€3.65, one hour) and Jaca (€5.45, 1¼ hours), with one northbound train in the morning and one southbound in the late afternoon. A car offers far more flexibility in these parts.
Centro de Interpretación de Aves Arcaz BIRDWATCHING
(%974 56 19 10; www.vultouris.net; Riglos; adult/child €2/1; h10am-2pm & 3-7.30pm Wed-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-May & Oct)
A 1km walk or drive south of Riglos, this centre has good displays and information on the vultures of the Pyrenees region, and a great observation deck for viewing Los Mallos’ large colony of huge griffon vultures.
ACTIVE ADVENTURES IN THE PYRENEES
With its wild and varied terrain, Aragón is Spain’s natural adventure playground. The high point, literally, is the breathtaking Aragonese Pyrenees, arguably the wildest and most stunning section of the Pyrenees either side of the Spanish–French border. There are plenty of chances to get up close and personal with the peaks and passes, with rock climbing (including a growing number of vie ferrate), mountain trails and snowy slopes promising year-round scope for adrenaline-charged outdoor activities.
Serious hikers can also embark on all or parts of the famous coast-to-coast GR11 long-distance trail, while folk who prefer a more gentle Sunday-morning-style stroll can head for the foothills in places such as the awe-inspiring Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido with its waterfalls, crystal streams and limestone cliffs and canyons. Water-sports fans can take the plunge with white-water rafting, kayaking and canoeing on the Gállego and Ésera rivers; and canyon lovers can slide, jump and abseil down gorges around Alquézar and elsewhere. Paragliders can take to the air around Castejón de Sos, while Aínsa is the perfect base for mountain biking. After your exertions, picturesque stone villages throughout the region ensure that R&R (and refreshments) are never too far away.
Montaña Segura (www.montanasegura.com) has a great deal of useful info about walks and climbs in Aragón’s mountains. Much of it is only in Spanish, but the ‘Folletos’ (Leaflets) section has information on walking routes in English and French, too.
Birdwatching
This is one of the best regions in Europe for raptors, and birdwatchers flock here to catch a glimpse of red and black kites; Egyptian, griffon, and threatened lammergeier vultures; and, among the highest peaks, that majestic king of all birds: the golden eagle. Even non-enthusiasts will be thrilled by vulture-viewing at the Garganta de Escuaín or the Centro de Interpretación de Aves Arcaz at Riglos.
Turismo de Aragón, the regional tourism body, has detailed information on 16 rutas ornitológicas spread all over Aragón (www.turismodearagon.com/es/naturaleza.html). Tourist offices around the region will also help, and birders can also check www.birdingpirineos.com (for northwest Aragón) and www.aragonbirding.com.
Sos del Rey Católico
POP 500 / ELEV 625M
If King Fernando II of Aragon were reincarnated in the 21st century, he’d probably still recognise his modest birthplace in Sos del Rey Católico. Take away the motor vehicles and summer tourist crowds, and outwardly not a huge amount has changed in this small, tightly packed hilltop village since 1452 when the future husband of Isabel of Castile and king of a united Spain was born in the Sada palace. Legend has it that Fernando’s mother travelled 14km on horseback from Sangüesa in Navarra while already in labour, purely to ensure her son was born Aragonese.
Royalty aside, Sos is a fine place to soak up the feel of an old Aragonese village. When you’ve finished having historical hallucinations in its labyrinthine streets, you can investigate the network of mossy walking paths that dissolve into the surrounding countryside.
1Sights
Casa Palacio de Sada HISTORIC BUILDING
(Plaza de la Hispanidad; adult/child €2.90/1.90; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun, closed Mon Sep-Jun)
Fernando II of Aragón was born in this building in 1452. It’s an impressive mansion – more so now than in Fernando’s time, following a major expansion around 1600 and restoration in the 20th century. The rooms contain Spanish-language information panels on Fernando’s highly eventful and historically significant life, plus a few models. Also here is the Capilla de San Martín de Tours where an audiovisual on Sos’s history and the chapel’s own 14th-century Gothic murals is shown.
Iglesia de San Esteban CHURCH
(€1; h10am-1pm & 3.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon Sun)
This Romanesque-Gothic church, with a weathered Romanesque portal, has a deliciously gloomy crypt decorated with medieval frescos.
Castillo de la Peña Feliciano CASTLE
The 12th-century keep and some of the walls are all that still stand of the castle that once guarded the frontier between the two Christian kingdoms of Aragón and Navarra. Climb up for views over the village roofs and the countryside in all directions.
4Sleeping
Hostal Las Coronas HOSTAL€
(%948 88 84 08; www.hostallascoronas.com; Calle Pons Sorolla 2; s/d incl breakfast €40/60; aW)
Run by friendly Fernando, this hostal has modest, rustic rooms. Try for No 3 with its spa shower and balcony overlooking Sos’ hauntingly hemmed-in plaza. The popular ground-floor bar serves tapas, bocadillos (€3.50 to €6), raciones (€3 to €22), platos combinados (€12.50 to €18.50) and your included breakfast to a refreshing classical soundtrack.
oParador de Sos del Rey Católico HOTEL€€
(%948 88 80 11; www.parador.es; Calle Arquitecto Sainz de Vicuña 1; r €64-156; hmid-Feb–Dec; paW)
Though not a historic building (it was erected in the 1970s), Sos’s parador is well in harmony with the town’s architecture and provides all the expected parador services and comforts. You can hole up with a book, sink sangrías on the restaurant terrace, or just lie back and enjoy the views from your suitably regal bedroom. There’s an excellent restaurant (set menus €30 to €38) serving a changing menu of regional specialities.
Ruta del Tiempo BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%948 88 82 95; www.rutadeltiempo.es; Plaza de la Villa; incl breakfast s €50, d €70-110; aW)
Evocatively located under the arches of the central plaza, rooms on the 1st floor are themed around three Aragonese kings connected with Sos, while the four 2nd-floor rooms have decorations dedicated to four different continents. They’re all good, but spacious ‘Asia’ and ‘Africa’ are the best.
El Peirón BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%948 88 82 83; www.elpeiron.com; Calle Fernando el Católico 24; s from €75, d €85-140; hMar-Dec; aW)
Family-run El Peirón is an appealing mix of thick stone walls, wrought iron, period decor (including some original 16th- and 17th-century doors and furnishings), contemporary art, colour feature walls and ample bathrooms. It has 14 rooms, including two suites set in one of the old town gates, the Puerta de Zaragoza.
5Eating
Landa Terraza SPANISH€€
(Calle Fernando el Católico 37; dishes €5.50-8.50, set menus €13; h9am-midnight)
Straightforward food at very good prices, served with good humour, packs in the punters to this smallish bar and its bright open-air terrace. You could enjoy a ración or media ración of eggs and ham, or the longaniza sausage served with setas (wild mushrooms), or opt for a quick bocadillo or the good-value menú del día.
La Cocina del Principal ARAGONESE€€
(%948 88 83 48; www.lacocinadelprincipal.es; Calle Fernando el Católico 13; mains €17-26; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat Mar-Nov, by reservation Dec-Feb)
Generally hailed as the best food in town, this place wins plaudits for its roast ternasco (suckling lamb), barbecued beef tenderloin and pigs’ trotters. It’s set down steps that seem to be leading to a basement cellar but reveal a stone-walled dining room with a panoramic terrace outside, enhanced by some interesting art.
8Information
Tourist Office (%948 88 85 24; www.oficinaturismososdelreycatolico.com; Plaza Hispanidad; tours adult/child €4.40/1.90, incl Palacio de Sada €6.40/2.90; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun, closed Mon Sep-Jun) Housed in the Palacio de Sada, the tourist office runs two or three Spanish-language guided tours of the village daily.
8Getting There & Away
An Autobuses Cinco Villas (%976 66 09 80; www.autobusescincovillas.com) bus leaves Sos for Zaragoza (€11, 2½ hours) at 7am Monday to Friday, returning at 5pm.
Valles de Hecho & Ansó
These enchanting parallel valleys, tucked away in Aragón’s far northwest corner, run up through dense mixed woodlands, punctuated by a few ancient stone-built villages, between crags of increasing height and drama, where raptors circle high above, to end at the main Pyrenean ridge along the French border. Flowing south from these mountains, the Río Aragón Subordán and, a few kilometres to its west, the Río Veral have carved out the Hecho (Echo) and Ansó valleys. Little known to non-Spaniards, the valleys and their surrounding mountains are a paradise for walkers, with rivers, lakes, gorges and waterfalls, as well as spectacular mountain scenery and plentiful accommodation. The upper parts of the valleys are part of the 270-sq-km Parque Natural de los Valles Occidentales.
2Activities
There are endless walking options here on well-marked trails among gorgeous scenery – everything from one-hour strolls to long-day peak ascents or multi-day hiking tours. Weather is never predictable, but June to October are generally the best months for hiking. The top goals for peak baggers are Bisaurín (2670m), Castiello d’Acher (2384m) and Meseta d’os Tres Rais (Mesa de los Tres Reyes; 2448m), each a round-trip hike of seven hours or more (1200m to 1300m of ascent and descent) from the nearest roadhead.
The 1:25,000 map Valles Occidentales Ansó-Echo, published by Prames, is excellent.
Local tourist offices have some printed route information, and there are route descriptions and data in Spanish, with maps, at www.rutasvalledehecho.com, www.montanasegura.com and http://senderosturisticos.turismodearagon.com.
8Getting There & Around
The good A176 road heads up to Hecho and Ansó villages (13km apart) from Puente la Reina on the N240. Lesser but adequate roads head up the valleys, paved as far as Selva da Oza in the Valle de Hecho and Zuriza in the Valle de Ansó.
A bus to Hecho (€3.50, 1¼ hours), continuing to Siresa and Ansó, leaves Jaca bus station at 6.20pm Monday to Thursday and Saturday (7.40pm Friday, and Monday to Saturday in July and August; no bus Sundays). It starts back from Ansó at 6.30am Monday to Saturday, stopping in Siresa at 6.50am and Hecho at 7am.
Hecho
POP 590 / ELEV 820M
There probably isn’t a more pleasant spot from which to launch sorties into the Pyrenees than humble Hecho (Echo), an attractive warren of solid stone houses with steep roofs, tall chimneys and flower-decked balconies.
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo SCULPTURE
(www.valledehecho.es; Carretera de Oza) F
Thanks to an international art symposium held here annually from 1975 to 1984, Hecho is endowed with a large collection of contemporary sculpture and painting from that epoch. More than 40 sculptures, mostly in stone, stand behind the tourist office building and elsewhere around the village. Inside the tourist office (and viewable when the office is open) is a collection of 26 paintings and nine wooden sculptures.
Val d’Echo Activa ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%974 37 54 21; www.valdechoactiva.com; Carretera de Oza 2; half-day per person €40-45)
This Hecho-based firm offers exciting canyoning in the Boca del Infierno gorge, and vie ferrate (climbing routes equipped with steel steps, ladders and cables) in the Selva de Oza and elsewhere (minimum three or four people).
Casa Blasquico HOSTAL€
(%974 37 50 07; www.casablasquico.es; Plaza La Fuente 1; d €55-60, tr €75; hMar-Dec; aW)
The best place to stay in town, family-run Casa Blasquico has just seven rooms, so it’s a good idea to book ahead. With its flower boxes, gables, floral-pattern textiles and woody decor, it might have been plucked straight out of the Swiss Alps.
oRestaurante Gaby ARAGONESE€€
(%974 37 50 07; www.casablasquico.es; Plaza La Fuente 1; mains €12-19; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10pm, Mar-Dec; W)
The restaurant in Casa Blasquico is a delightful place to eat, with an intimate wood-beamed dining room plus a small outside terrace overlooking a cobbled plaza. It offers uncomplicated mountain fare with top-class ingredients expertly prepared: the wild mushroom crêpes, duck confit and beef entrecôte are all great choices. There’s an extensive wine list too. Reservations highly advisable.
Restaurante Canteré SPANISH€€
(%974 37 52 14; www.cantere.es; Calle Aire 1; mains €14-23, set menus €21; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Jul-Sep, 1.30-1.30pm Thu-Tue Oct-Jun)
First-class creative preparation of classic ingredients and welcoming service in a bright, contemporary-style dining room are the secrets of success here. The four-course menú is too tempting to overlook: the numerous options might include carrot soup with coconut foam, beef entrecôte, or hake with mushrooms au gratin – and you can try every starter and dessert on offer if you like!
8Information
Tourist Office (%974 37 55 05, town hall 974 37 50 02; www.valledehecho.es; Carretera de Oza; h10am-1.30pm & 5.30-8pm Jul–mid-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 4.30-7pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–Jun)
Siresa
POP 125 / ELEV 870M
The tiny and captivating village of Siresa, a couple of kilometres north of Hecho, is where medieval Christian Aragón got its start in life.
Iglesia de San Pedro CHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; €2; h11am-1pm & 5-8pm Jul-Sep, Sat & Sun only Oct-Jun)
This thick-walled church, Siresa’s centrepiece, was founded in the 9th century as part of a monastery that was, in its early years, the hub of the nascent County of Aragón. It was rebuilt in Romanesque style in the 11th century, and restored in the 13th century and more recently in the 1990s. Artworks inside include a wonderful Gothic crucifixion sculpture in polychromed wood, discovered during the 1990s restoration.
Hotel Usón HOTEL€
(%974 37 53 58; www.hoteluson.com; Carretera Selva de Oza, Km 7; s €40-50, d €50-70, apt €75-85; hMar-Oct; pW)
Cosy rooms in peaceful, wonderfully scenic surroundings are what you’ll find here, 5km north of Siresa on the road to the Selva de Oza. A good base for walkers and birdwatchers, the Usón has a restaurant serving decent home-style meals (breakfast/dinner €7/17), and the superb Pirineos Bier craft beer is brewed right here on the spot.
Hotel Castillo d’Acher HOTEL€
(%974 37 53 13; www.castillodacher.com; Plaza Mayor; s/d/tr/q €35/55/65/75; W)
This stone-built hotel has pleasant rooms, pine-furnished and relatively modern. The owners also offer holiday apartments in the village for weekend or longer stays. The in-house restaurant does a hearty menú del día (set menu) for €15.
Selva de Oza
The top end of the Valle de Hecho is particularly beautiful; the increasingly rutted road runs parallel to the Río Aragón Subordán as it bubbles its way through thick woodlands. Around 7km beyond Siresa, the road squeezes through the Boca del Infierno (Hell’s Mouth), emerging about 3km further on in the particularly dense and beautiful forests of the Selva de Oza. From here the road continues another 3km, unpaved, to the junction of valleys and paths known as A Mina.
Day hikes starting from A Mina include the trails up to Puerto del Palo pass on the French border, following the course of a Roman road across the Pyrenees (about five hours round trip; 750m ascent and descent); to the mountain lake Ibón d’Acherito (four to five hours round trip; 660m ascent and descent); and to Ibón d’Estanés lake via Aguas Tuertas meadows. For this last you can drive 4.5km east from A Mina to shorten the walk to about 3½ hours each way (600m ascent and descent).
An easier, shorter hike of around 3½ hours (520m of ascent and descent) is the circuit round Boca del Infierno gorge in the Hecho valley from Puen de Santana bridge, which includes another stretch of the same Roman road.
Bosque de Oza ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%974 37 54 21; http://bosquedeoza.com; adult/child €18/16; h11am-7pm Jun-Aug, Sat & Sun only Mar-May, Sep & Oct; c)
Great for kids, this activity park among the Selva de Oza trees comprises eight circuits of ziplines, aerial climbing/crawling nets, ropeways, walkways and Tibetan bridges – a good two to three hours’ fun.
Camping Selva de Oza CAMPGROUND€
(%974 56 55 15; http://camping-selvadeoza.com; hadult/tent/car €6/6/5.50, s/d/tr/q incl breakfast from €35/60/95/110; W)
Reopened and revamped in 2017 after being closed for more than 20 years, this campground has a lovely riverside site, a good car-free tent area under the trees, a restaurant, a bar and seven decent pine-panelled rooms with well-sprung beds.
SKIING ARAGÓN
Aragón is one of Spain’s premier skiing destinations, with the season in the Pyrenees running from December to mid-April. The following are the major ski stations:
Candanchú (%974 37 31 94; www.candanchu.com; c) About 30km north of Jaca (a possible base), Candanchú offers some 60km of varied pistes and a nice alpine village feel. A favourite with families as well as experts, it’s one of Spain’s less expensive ski stations.
Astún (%974 37 30 88; www.astun.com) The Pyrenees’ newest resort, purpose-built (and rather ugly) Astún is 3km from Candanchú, with which it shares ski passes and a shuttle service. It has 40km of pistes, for a wide range of standards.
Panticosa (%974 48 72 48; www.formigal-panticosa.com; c) The smallest of Aragón’s five Pyrenees resorts, and an antidote to the bigger Formigal nearby, village-based Panticosa has mostly red and blue pistes.
Formigal (%974 49 00 00; www.formigal-panticosa.com) High in the Valle de Tena north of Sabiñánigo, Formigal is Aragón’s largest ski resort, with 137km of varied pistes in four different valleys. It has good modern facilities and a relatively lively après-ski scene.
Cerler (%974 55 10 12; www.cerler.com) This well-equipped resort is closely connected with the town of Benasque and thus enjoys tons of eating, sleeping and après-ski options. Especially good for intermediate and beginner skiers, it has 81km of pistes.
Ansó
POP 410 / ELEV 840M
Ansó’s grid of narrow streets, lined by neatly trimmed stone houses, sits above the east bank of the Río Veral, surrounded in all directions by beautiful mountain and forest vistas. The two focal points for your wanderings are the compact main square, Plaza Domingo Miral, and the surprisingly large 16th-century Iglesia de San Pedro.
Posada Magoría CASA RURAL€
(%974 37 00 49; http://posadamagoria.com; Calle Milagros 32; d €55-60; W)
Just below the church, delightful Posada Magoría is crammed with vintage character and lovingly kept by a family with lots of local knowledge. The kitchen cooks up excellent vegan meals (dinner €10 to €16, breakfast €6), largely sourced from their own organic garden, and served at a long communal table. There’s good organic wine to go with dinner too.
Hostal Kimboa HOSTAL€
(%650 987837; www.hostalkimboa.com; Paseo Chapitel 24; s/d incl breakfast €45/55, incl half-board Jul & Aug €50/85; hSemana Santa-Oct; W)
A welcoming family-owned hostal towards the top of the village, with pleasant pine-furnished rooms above a good restaurant specialising in traditional grilled meats (menús €15 to €35), plus a popular bar with outside terrace.
Maiberal ARAGONESE€
(%974 37 01 74; www.restaurantemaiberal.es; Calle Arrigo 1; mains €8-14, set menus €17-27; h11am-4.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10.30pm Sat-Sun mid-Jun–Jul & Sep, 10am-10.30pm Aug, 11am-4.30pm & 7-10.30pm Fri, 10am-10.30pm Sat-Sun Oct–mid-Jun)
A friendly, authentic place serving delicious dishes like vegetable-stuffed lamb, tagliatelle with courgette, shrimp and mushroom sauce, or stewed venison in a raspberry-and-wine sauce. There are also delectable tapas (€1.20), tostas (toasts with toppings), burgers, salads and huevos rotos (broken fried eggs) with sausage or ham.
8Information
Tourist Office (%974 37 02 25; www.turismoanso.es; Plaza Domingo Miral; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Jul & Aug, Sat & Sun only May, Jun & Sep)
Valle de Zuriza
Beyond the Foz Veral gorge, situated 11km north of Ansó village, the Ansó valley widens out into what’s called the Valle de Zuriza, a beautiful area of pastures, woodlands and rivers, where a few minor roads and some fine walking trails, including the GR11, meet.
From Camping Zuriza it’s a fine walk of about three hours each way up to the Cuello Petraficha pass and back, with about 750m of ascent and descent. The serrated ridge of the Sierra d’Alano is your companion to the south much of the way. A bit more demanding is the ascent of Achar d’Alano (2078m; about seven hours round trip; 845m of ascent and descent). You can cut half an hour each way off both these routes by driving the unpaved road as far as A Taxera.
An unpaved road running past Camping Zuriza heads 5km north to the Refugio de Linza, one of the refuges of the Senda de Camille circuit and also the starting point for the ascent of Meseta d’os Tres Rais (Mesa de los Tres Reyes; 2448m), about seven hours round trip with ascent and descent of 1275m.
Camping Zuriza CAMPGROUND€
(%620 879572; www.campingzuriza.es; adult/tent/car €5/5/5, d shared/private bathroom €45/55, bungalow for 2-4 persons €75; hSemana Santa-early Oct; p)
Parts of the site are quite tightly packed but it offers a range of accommodation options, a simple restaurant, a food shop and superb surroundings at the heart of the valley.
Santa Cruz de la Serós
POP 150 / ELEV 780M
Santa Cruz de la Serós is a pretty, stone-built village spread around the 11th-century Romanesque Iglesia de Santa María, which was originally part of Aragón’s earliest convent. The village, 4km south of the N240 west of Jaca, is primarily visited as a gateway to what is, arguably, Aragón’s most fascinating monastery – the Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña.
1Sights
oMonasterio de San Juan de la Peña MONASTERY
(Old Monastery; www.monasteriosanjuan.com; Monasterio Viejo/incl 1 centre/incl 2 centres adult €7/8.50/12, child €4.50/5/7; h10am-2pm & 3.30-7pm Mar-May, Sep & Oct, 10am-2pm & 3-8pm Jun-Aug, 10am-2pm Sun-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat Nov-Feb; p)
The two monasteries of San Juan de la Peña sit high on the rocky Sierra de la Peña above Santa Cruz de la Serós village. A fire in 1675 led the monks to abandon the original 10th-century Monasterio Viejo and build a new one, the Monasterio Nuevo, higher up the hill. Abandoned by the mid-19th century, these historic monasteries have since been rehabilitated and merit a visit by anyone interested in old architecture and sculpture, history, scenery or wildlife.
The road from Santa Cruz winds 7km up to the Monasterio Viejo, tucked protectively under an overhanging lip of rock at a bend in the road. One of the most important monasteries of medieval Aragón, it contains the tombs of Aragón’s first three kings – Ramiro I (1036–64), Sancho Ramírez (1064–94) and Pedro I (1094–1104) – and two churches (the lower one a rare Mozarabic–Romanesque hybrid, the upper one pure Romanesque). But its greatest highlight is the Romanesque cloister, with marvellous carved 12th- and 13th-century capitals depicting stories from Genesis and the life of Christ.
The Monasterio Nuevo is a larger, two-towered, brick complex 1.5km further up the road. It hosts the sizable Centro de Interpretación del Monasterio, built over the archaeological remains of ruined parts of the monastery, which has Spanish-language panels on the history of the monasteries and the kingdom of Aragón, as well as a glass floor through which you look down on somewhat cheesy life-sized models of monks and scenes of monastic life. Also here is the Centro de Interpretación del Reino de Aragón in the reconstructed main monastery church, playing a 40-minute audiovisual show about early Aragonese history.
Tickets for both the monasteries are sold at the Monasterio Nuevo and, during the summer (June to August), this is where you’ll have to park. A bus shuttles down to the Monasterio Viejo and back every few minutes. Ticket prices depend on how many of the interpretation centres you wish to visit.
1Viewpoints & Vultures
From the Balcón del Pirineo, a 400m walk north of the Monasterio Nuevo, you have superb vistas of the Pyrenees spread across the horizon and, with luck, some of the local vultures gliding the thermals in front of you.
To find out more about the vultures and the area’s natural features, visit the Centro de Interpretación San Juan de la Peña y Monte Oroel (%974 36 14 76; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun Jul & Aug, Sat & Sun Apr-Jun & Sep-Nov), next to the Monasterio Nuevo.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal Santa Cruz HOSTAL€
(%974 36 19 75; www.santacruzdelaseros.com; Calle Ordana; s/d/tr incl breakfast €40/60/80; W)
Beside the church in Santa Cruz de la Serós, this is a beautiful place with friendly service and eight charming rooms, four with balconies overlooking the church. It has a bar where you can get a bocadillo, and a restaurant (closed Monday except August) serving meaty dishes such as wild boar ragout and a good menú del día (€14).
It closes for a few weeks per year; check the website.
8Getting There & Away
There’s no public transport to the monastery or even into Santa Cruz de la Serós. For walkers, a stiff 4km marked path leads up from Santa Cruz to the Monasterio Viejo. With an ascent of 350m, it takes about 1½ hours.