Around San Sebastián
Pasajes
POP 16,200
Pasajes (Basque: Pasaia), where the river Oiartzun meets the Atlantic, has multiple personalities. It is both a massive industrial port (the largest in the province of Guipúzcoa) and a sleepy village with quaint medieval houses hunkering over the waterfront. In fact, Pasajes is made up of four distinct districts, though it’s Pasai Donibane and Pasai San Pedro that have all the charm. These two villages face each other on opposite sides of the river, and are sprinkled with sights that pay homage to the region’s maritime history.
Pasai Donibane on the east bank is the more appealing of the two, with several attractive squares and some notable seafood restaurants. A frequent speedboat ferry connects the two towns. Dining aside, highlights include the spectacular entrance to the port, through a keyhole-like split in the cliff face – even more impressive when a huge container ship passes through it.
1Sights & Activities
Albaola Foundation MUSEUM
(
%943 39 24 26; www.albaola.com; Ondartxo Ibilbida 1, Pasai San Pedro; adult/child €7/5; 
h10am-2pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Easter-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Easter)
This terrific museum charts the history of Pasajes’ whaling industry. At the centre of the story is the San Juan, a galleon that sunk off the coast of Newfoundland in 1565. Models and explanatory panels describe the ship and illustrate how a team of Canadian underwater archaeologists discovered its wreck in 1978. The highlight, though, is the life-size replica of the ship that they are building using the same techniques and materials that were used to build the original.
Casa Museo Victor Hugo MUSEUM
(%943 34 15 56; Calle Donibane 63, Pasai Donibane; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jun) 
F
French author Victor Hugo spent the summer of 1843 in Pasajes, lodging at this typical 17th-century waterfront house and working on his travelogue En Voyage, Alpes et Pyrénées. Sadly, his eldest daughter died in September, and he didn’t write the book he intended. The second floor retains a smattering of period furniture and various prints and first editions, plus audio commentary on Hugo’s robust diet (peas, nectarines, oysters, cider and a glass of Malaga for breakfast).
Faro de la Plata LIGHTHOUSE
It’s quite a climb from Pasai San Pedro, but the views from around the lighthouse (closed to the public) are worth the effort. This is especially so when a large cargo ship slips through the cliff walls that form the entrance to the narrow but perfect port of Pasajes. The 2km walk takes about 30 minutes.
Coastal Path HIKING
The nicest way of getting between San Sebastián and Pasajes is to walk along the coastal path that wends its way over the cliffs between the two towns. There are lovely sea views, unusual cliff formations and, halfway along, a hidden beach that tempts when it’s hot. Ask at San Sebastián tourist office for route information. The 7.6km trek takes 2½ to 3 hours.
5Eating
Ziaboga Bistrot SEAFOOD€€
(%943 51 03 95; www.ziabogabistrot.com; Calle Donibane 91, Pasai Donibane; mains €18-21, tapas €4-16, menús €20-50; h1-4pm & 8-11pm)
Pasajes is full of excellent seafood restaurants, but Ziaboga Bistrot is one of the best. And with a weekday lunch menú of just €20, it’s also very good value. Outside of meal times, there’s also tapas on hand (from 11am to 11pm).
Casa Cámara SEAFOOD€€€
(%943 52 36 99; www.casacamara.com; Calle San Juan 79; mains €18-36; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11pm Tue-Sun)
Managed by the same family for generations, Casa Cámara is built half on stilts over the Bay of Pasajes. The bulk of the menu is seafood based and the cooking is assured and traditional. The lobsters live in a cage lowered down through a hole in the middle of the dining area straight into the sea.
8Information
In Pasai Donibane, the tourist office (%943 34 15 56; Calle Donibane 63; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jun) has info on walks and other attractions in the area.
8Getting There & Away
Pasajes is practically a suburb of San Sebastián; numerous buses (€1.70, 25 minutes) ply the route between them. If you’re driving, it’s easier to park in Pasai San Pedro than in Pasai Donibane.
For a much more enjoyable way of getting here, though, you can walk over the cliffs from San Sebastián. The walk takes about 2½ to three hours and passes through patches of forest and past the occasional idyllic beach and strange rock formations covered in seabirds; it then descends to Pasajes, which you reach by taking the small ferry boat across the inlet.
8Getting Around
Once in Pasajes, you’ll want to use the tiny ferry (one-way €0.70; h6.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, 6.30am-midnight Fri, 7am-midnight Sat, 7.45am-11pm Sun) for the speedy crossing between Pasai San Pedro and Pasai Donibane.
Hondarribia
POP 16,950
Picturesque Hondarribia (Castilian: Fuenterrabía), staring across the estuary to France, has a heavy Gallic fragrance, a charming Casco Antiguo (old city) and a buzzing beach scene.
You enter the Casco through an archway at the top of Calle San Compostela to reach the pretty Plaza de Gipuzkoa. Head straight on to Calle San Nicolás and go left to reach the bigger Plaza de Armas and the Gothic Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción (Calle Mayor).
For La Marina, head the other way from the archway. This is Hondarribia’s most picturesque quarter. Its main street, Calle San Pedro, is flanked by typical fishermen’s houses, with facades painted bright green or blue and wooden balconies gaily decorated with flower boxes.
The beach is about 1km from the town. Lined by bars and restaurants, it’s not the prettiest stretch of coastline, but it does offer some of the calmest waters in the entire region.
1Sights
Casco Histórico AREA
Hondarribia’s walled historic centre, much of which dates to the 15th and 16th centuries, is an atmospheric grid of graceful plazas, cobbled lanes, and fetching buildings adorned with wood-carved eaves and wrought-iron balconies. The focal square is Plaza de Armas, where you’ll find the local tourist office, but prettier still is picture-perfect Plaza de Gipuzkoa.
Monte Jaizkibel MOUNTAIN
Monte Jaizkibel is a giant slab of rock sitting at 547m that acts as a defensive wall, protecting the inland towns and fields from the angry, invading ocean. A very strenuous walking trail (about 8km from Hondarribia) and a car-taxing road wend their way up the mountain to a ruined fortress and spectacular views. From here you can walk all the way to Pasajes (another 9km).
Castillo de Carlos V CASTLE
(Plaza de Armas 14)
Today it’s a government-run hotel, but for over a thousand years this castle hosted knights and kings. Its position atop the old town hill gave it a commanding view over the strategic Bidasoa estuary, which has long marked the Spain–France border. Poke your head into the reception lobby to admire the medieval decor.
Hendaye BEACH
(France)
Just across the river from Hondarribia lies the pretty French town of Hendaye. The main reason to come, apart from nibbling on perfectly flaky croissants, is Hendaye’s 3km-long-stretch of lovely beach, which is a short stroll from the ferry dock. A regular ferry connects the two towns, though lines can be long in the summer.
4Sleeping
Hotel San Nikolás HOTEL€€
(%943 64 42 78; www.hotelsannikolas.es; Plaza de Armas 6; s €83, d €109-127; 
W)
Located inside a charming old building on the main plaza, in the heart of Hondarribia’s historic centre, this small hotel is an enjoyable spot to stay for a night or two.
Parador de Hondarribia HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(%943 64 55 00; www.parador.es; Plaza de Armas 14; d from €288; 
p
a
iW)
It’s not every day that the opportunity to sleep in a thousand-year-old fortress guarding the boundaries of Spain arises. This sumptuous offering from the Parador chain has modern guest rooms with hard-wood floors and stone walls, many with sea views. But the place to be at sunset is one of the castle’s courtyards or terraces, glass of wine in hand.
5Eating
oGastroteka Danontzat BASQUE€€
(%943 64 65 97; Calle Denda 6; small plates €7-17; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Wed-Mon)
Gastroteka Danontzat has a fun, creative approach to dining, serving beautifully prepared market-fresh fare with a dash of whimsy. Start off with smoked sardines, anchovies or crab pudding, before moving on to tender tuna sashimi, squid with potato confit or Jamaican-style chicken wings. Small servings mean you can try a lot of flavours.
La Hermandad de Pescadores SEAFOOD€€
(%943 64 27 38; http://hermandaddepescadores.com; Calle Zuloaga 12; mains €18-22; h1-3.30pm Tue-Sun & 8-10pm Tue & Thu-Sat)
Locals in the know travel from San Sebastián to eat at this historic Hondarribia restaurant. Housed in a traditional white-and-blue cottage, it serves an array of seafood classics but is best known for its sopa de pescado (fish soup), said by some to be the best in the area.
Gran Sol BASQUE€€
(%943 64 27 01; www.bargransol.com; Calle San Pedro 65; pintxos €2.20-4.20; h12.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun)
Gran Sol is one of Hondarribia’s best-known eateries. Creative pintxos, such as pan-fried foie gras with caramelised onions, are served in the woody bar, while next door equally innovative fare is dished up in the adjoining restaurant (menus from €35).
Arroka Berri BASQUE€€
(%943 64 27 12; www.arrokaberri.com; Calle Higer Bidea 6; mains €18-26; h1-3.30pm & 8-11pm Thu-Sun)
As with many trend-setting Basque restaurants, Arroka Berri takes high-quality local produce and refines old-fashioned recipes with a dash of invention. Highlights include oxtail-stuffed peppers, filet of hake loin with mussels and crispy vegetables, and sirloin with Idiazabal cheese sauce.
8Information
On the main square in the walled old town, the tourist office (%943 64 36 77; www.hondarribia.org; Plaza de Armas 9; h9.30am-7.30pm Jul–mid-Sep, 10am-6pm Mon-Sat & 10am-2pm Sun mid-Sep–Jun) has handy info on nearby attractions.
8Getting There & Away
Buses run every half-hour or so to San Sebastián (€2.45, 35 minutes); catch them from Sabin Arana a short walk east of the old town.
To cross over to France, take the Hendaye-Hondarribia Ferry (www.transfermuga.eu; one-way €1.90; h10.15am-1am Jul–mid-Sep, to 7pm Apr-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar), which departs approximately every 15 minutes. Find the ferry a few streets over from Calle San Pedro in La Marina.
Oñati
POP 11,400
With a flurry of magnificent architecture and a number of interesting sites scattered through the surrounding green hills, the small and resolutely Basque town of Oñati is a great place to get to know the rural Basque heartland. Many visitors pass through on their way to or from the nearby Santuario de Arantzazu.
1Sights
Iglesia de San Miguel CHURCH
(%943 78 34 53; Avenida de Unibertsitate 2; hhours vary)
This late-Gothic confection has a cloister built over the river and a 17th-century crypt where the Counts of Guevara are buried. The church faces onto the main square, Foruen Enparantza, dominated by the eye-catching baroque ayuntamiento (town hall). Contact the tourist office for guided tours.
Monastery of Bidaurreta MONASTERY
(%943 78 34 53; Kalea Lazarraga; hhours vary)
Founded in 1510, this monastery contains a beautiful baroque altarpiece. It’s at the opposite end of town from the tourist office and Iglesia de San Miguel. As a still functioning cloistered convent for the Poor Clares, it’s rarely open to the public; though the tourist office sometimes arranges tours.
Universidad de Sancti Spiritus HISTORIC BUILDING
(Avenida de la Universidad 8)
Oñati’s number-one attraction is the Renaissance treasure of the Universidad de Sancti Spiritus. Built in the 16th century, it was the first university in the Basque Country and, until its closure in 1902, alumni here were schooled in philosophy, law and medicine. The Mudéjar courtyard is worth a look.
WORTH A TRIP
SANTUARIO DE ARANTZAZU
About 10km south of Oñati, the Santuario de Arantzazu (%943 78 09 51; www.arantzazu.org; Barrio de Arantzazu 8; h9am-8pm) is a busy Christian pilgrimage site that’s a fabulous conflation of piety and avant-garde art. The sanctuary was built in the 1960s on the site where, in 1468, a shepherd found a statue of the Virgin under a hawthorn bush. The sanctuary’s design is based on this.
The overwhelming impression is one of mystery and abstract artistry, with halls guarded by 14 chiselled apostles and one cloakless virgin standing over the prone figure of Christ – all comprising one monumental work created by the great Basque sculptor Jorge Oteiza. Descend into the crypt for a look at the powerful murals by Néstor Basterretxea.
4Sleeping
Oñati doesn’t get a lot of tourists staying overnight. But the countryside around town is awash in casas rurales – ask at the tourist office for a list.
Torre Zumeltzegi HOTEL€€
(%943 54 00 00; www.hoteltorrezumeltzegi.com; Calle Torre Zumeltzegi 11; s/d from €87/123; aW)
On a hillside a few minutes’ (uphill) walk from the centre, this restored 13th-century property offers lodging in a fortified mansion. Its 12 unique rooms have beamed ceilings and stone walls, with windows that afford pretty views over the town. The peaceful terrace is a great spot to unwind after a day spent exploring.
Zumeltzegi also has one of Oñati’s best restaurants (mains €16 to €20).
8Information
The tourist office (%943 78 34 53; www.oñatiturismo.eus; Calle San Juan 14; h9.30am-2pm & 3.30-7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr) is just west of Iglesia de San Miguel, by the river. In July (weekends) and August (daily) the office runs guided tours in Spanish at 1pm to the Universidad de Sancti Spiritus and the Iglesia de San Miguel. English tours are also sometimes offered, though you’ll need to contact them at least 24 hours in advance.
8Getting There & Away
PESA buses serve Oñati from many destinations in the Basque Country, including Bilbao (€6.85, 60 to 75 minutes, three daily).
Vitoria-Gasteiz
POP 245,000 / ELEV 512M
Vitoria-Gasteiz – often shortened to simply Vitoria – has a habit of falling off the radar, yet it’s actually the capital of not just the southern Basque province of Álava (Basque: Araba) but also the entire Basque Country. Maybe it was given this honour precisely because it is so forgotten, but if that’s the case, prepare for a pleasant surprise. With an art gallery whose contents frequently surpass those of the more famous Bilbao galleries, a delightful old quarter, dozens of great pintxo bars and restaurants, a large student contingent and a friendly local population, you have the makings of a lovely city.
Vitoria-Gasteiz
1Sights
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
oCatedral de Santa María CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 25 51 35; www.catedralvitoria.eus; Plaza Santa María; tours €8.50-10.50; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm)
At the summit of the old town and dominating its skyline is the medieval Catedral de Santa María. Although the church has been undergoing a lengthy restoration project for many years, it is open for guided visits, which provide a fascinating glimpse of the many layers of history hidden inside this 13th-century masterpiece.
The recommended cathedral & tower tour (€10.50) shows you the evolution of building techniques over the centuries, taking you through underground chambers and up to the rooftop where you’ll have a view over the city. The tour ends with a magnificent 3D projection along the walls, showing just how colourful these churches were in centuries past (not the cold grey stone of common belief). Hard hats provided. Call ahead or book a tour online. English-language tours are offered at least once a day.
oArtium MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 20 90 00; www.artium.org; Calle de Francia 24; adult/child €5/free, by donation Wed & last weekend of month; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat & Sun; 
c)
Vitoria’s palace of modern art may not have much in the way of grand architecture, but it stages some of the most daring and thought-provoking exhibitions in the Basque Country. Art lovers shouldn’t miss this temple to the avant-garde.
Anillo Verde PARK
Ringing the city is the Anillo Verde (Green Belt), the pride of Vitoria. A series of interconnecting parks, ponds and marshes linked to one another by cycle paths, this 31km loop is one of the reasons Vitoria was named the European Green Capital in 2012. The most important of these green areas is the Parque de Salburúa (Salburúa Park). Several outfitters rent bicycles; Capital Bikes also runs guided bike tours (from €20 to €30).
Bibat MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 20 90 00; Calle de la Cuchillería 54; h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) F
The Museo de Arqueología and the Museo Fournier de Naipes (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle de la Cuchillería 54; adult/student/child €3/1/free; h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) are combined into one museum known as Bibat. The Museo de Arqueología has interactive displays that bring the dim and distant past to life. The eccentric Museo Fournier de Naipes has an impressive collection of historic presses and playing cards, including some of the oldest European decks.
Museo de Bellas Artes GALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Paseo de Fray Francisco 8; h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) F
Housed in an exquisite neo-Renaissance building, the absorbing Museo de Bellas Artes has Basque paintings and sculpture from the 18th and 19th centuries. The works of local son Fernando de Amaríca are on display and reflect an engaging romanticism that manages to mix drama with great warmth of colour and composition.
Paseo de los Arquillos HISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP); The Paseo de los Arquillos is a gorgeous neoclassical covered arcade that serves as the border between the old and new towns. It was built between 1787 and 1802.
Museo de Armería MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Paseo de Fray Francisco 3; h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) F
On a peaceful, tree-lined boulevard southwest of the centre, this low-lit armaments museum showcases weapons used over the centuries, from Bronze Age spearheads to 19th-century muskets. The global collection includes African weaponry, some beautifully designed 17th-century samurai costumes and a shiny suit of armour on an equally well-protected horse.
zFestivals & Events
Fiestas de la Virgen Blanca CITY FESTIVAL
(h4-9 Aug)
The calm, sophisticated Vitoria goes a bit wild during the boisterous Fiestas de la Virgen Blanca. Fireworks, bullfights, concerts and street dancing are preceded by the symbolic descent of Celedón, a beret-wearing, umbrella-holding Basque effigy that flies down on strings from the Iglesia de San Miguel into the plaza below.
Jazz Festival MUSIC
(www.jazzvitoria.com; hmid-Jul)
One of the city’s biggest summertime festivals is this popular five-day music festival, which features some great bands from across the globe. Aside from concerts held in venues like the Teatro Principal, there’s also jazz en la calle, with free outdoor shows around town.
Azkena Rock Festival MUSIC
(www.azkenarockfestival.com; h3rd weekend of Jun)
This annual rock festival features musical headliners from Spain and abroad, plus audiovisual events and outdoor cinema.
4Sleeping
Albergue de la Catedral HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 27 59 55; www.alberguecatedral.com; Calle de la Cuchillería 87; dm €18-24, d €50; iW)
This appealing 17-room hostel is virtually built into the walls of the cathedral. The clean, unadorned rooms are given a dash of character thanks to the exposed wooden roof beams. Aside from the dorms (which sleep from four to eight), there are several simple private rooms, including a couple of top-floor chambers under the roof.
Hotel Dato HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 14 72 30; www.hoteldato.com; Calle de Eduardo Dato 28; s/d from €40/60; W)
In a central location, the Hotel Dato is packed with antiques and artwork. Its 14 rooms are all uniquely designed, dotted with oil paintings or art deco flourishes – though some of the grandest works (including paintings by Utrillo) are in the common areas. Six rooms also have small balconies over the street.
La Casa de los Arquillos B&B€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 15 12 59; www.lacasadelosarquillos.com; Paseo Los Arquillos 1; r €120; aW)
Housed inside a beautiful old building in a prime location above the main square, this immaculate guesthouse has eight attractive rooms set with light, high-end fabrics and attractive furnishings (including a sofa bed, mini kitchens and a small breakfast nook). Some rooms have the original stone walls, while the upstairs rooms have skylights. Five rooms have balconies.
Abba Jazz Hotel HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 10 13 46; www.abbahotels.com; Calle de la Florida 7; s/d €76/85; W)
This confident little hotel has small, searing-white rooms adorned with black-and-white pictures of piano keys, trumpets and other suitably jazzy instruments. Room sizes vary, so ask to see a few before committing. It’s located on the edge of the lovely Parque de la Florida.
THE PAINTED CITY
Strolling through the winding lanes of Vitoria-Gasteiz’s old quarter is at times pure sensory overload – thanks to its surprising collection of murals soaring high above the streetscape. Beginning in 2007, two artists transformed one of the city’s blank walls into one massive painting called The Thread of Time, a fabric-like work bursting with colour. And so was born the Itinerario Muralístico Vitoria-Gasteiz (IMVG), a movement that would use the blank walls around town as canvases to create a kaleidoscopic open-air gallery at the epicentre of Vitoria.
Over the next six years, Verónica y Christina Werckmeister, the artists behind the first painting, were joined by other artists from around the globe who added their own vibrant touch to Vitoria. Today more than a dozen murals lie scattered around the centre. Many of the works reference Vitoria’s history, with folkloric costumes, medieval minstrels and Basque legends all featured in vibrant colour.
While you can explore the murals on your own, artists from IMVG (%633 184457; www.muralismopublico.com; guided tours €7) lead fascinating 90-minute guided tours in English, French and other languages. Get in touch with them to set up an excursion.
5Eating
Internationally Vitoria might not have the same culinary cachet as San Sebastián, but among in-the-know Spaniards this is a city with serious culinary pedigree. How serious? Well, in 2014 it was awarded the title of Capital Nacional de la Gastronomía (National Gastronomic Capital) on account of its stellar array of pintxo bars and highly creative chefs.
Saburdi PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Eduardo Dato 32; pintxos from €2.50; h8am-midnight Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun)
One of the best, if somewhat underrated, pintxos spots in town, Saburdi serves up gourmet creations featuring high-end ingredients. Nibble on creamy codfish-stuffed peppers, Iberian ham topped with egg, tuna with roasted peppers and other morsels of heavenly perfection. The interior is sleek and modern, with a few outdoor tables for enjoying fine sunny days.
Toloño PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle de San Francisco 3; pintxos from €3; h9am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, 10.30am-3.30pm Sun)
This bar has won awards for its creative pintxos; the house specials often involve creative takes on local mushrooms. It’s a large bar, so there’s normally somewhere to sit down, plus a small outdoor space that’s a charming spot to people-watch.
Bar El Tabanko PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.eltabanko.com; Calle de la Korrería 46; pintxos from €2.50; h7-11.30pm Tue-Thu, 1.30-4pm & 7-11pm Fri & Sat, 12.30-4.30pm Sun)
Taking its cue, in terms of both decoration and food, from the steamy southern region of Andalucía, this is an ever-busy, ever-reliable pintxo bar. Come early to grab a seat out front and watch the city stroll past.
La Malquerida PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://lamalqueridavitoria.com; Calle de la Correría 10; pintxos from €3; h10am-4pm & 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat & Sun)
A fantastic pintxo bar hidden away under the shadows of the church spires. Many locals consider it the best in town.
PerretxiCo PINTXOS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 13 72 21; http://perretxico.es; Calle San Antonio 3; pintxos from €2, mains €11-13; h10am-midnight)
This award-winning eatery packs in the crowds with its perfect, creative bites like mini-servings of mushroom risotto, grilled foie with apples and pine nuts, or codfish tempura. For something more substantial, book a table in the back and linger over roasted turbot with mushrooms or beef cheeks in red wine sauce.
Asador Matxete STEAK€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 13 18 21; www.matxete.com; Plaza de Matxete 4-5; mains €15-22; h1-3.45pm & 8.30-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-3.45pm Sun)
There are two types of asador (restaurants specialising in barbecued meat): smoky old farmhouse-like places that haven’t changed in decades, and sleek new urban remakes. This one falls into the second category and it fires up grilled steaks and whole fish served up with flair. It’s delightfully situated on a quiet old town plaza and has a lovely summer terrace.
El Clarete BASQUE€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %945 26 38 74; Calle Cercas Bajas 18; lunch/dinner menu €22/55; h1.30-3.30pm Mon-Sat & 9-11pm Thu-Sat, closed Aug)
Foodies flock to this outpost of culinary creativity, one of Vitoria’s best restaurants. The menu changes based on seasonal produce, and might feature seafood risotto, foie with rich port wine sauce or roast lamb, though the chef can accommodate dietary restrictions. It’s a small intimate space with stone walls and considerate service, plus an impressive wine cellar.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There’s a strong politico-arty vibe in the Casco Viejo, where a lively student cadre keeps things swerving with creative street posters and action. The main action is at Calle de la Cuchillería/Aiztogile and neighbouring Cantón de San Francísco Javier, both of which are packed with busy bars that attract a wide range of age groups. There’s a heavy Basque nationalist atmosphere in some bars.
La Cassette Vitoria BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.lacassettevitoria.com/home/english; Calle Nueva Fuera 7; h6-11pm Sun, Wed & Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
A fun and festive spot that draws all ages and creeds with its outstanding mojitos and gin and tonics poured by friendly bar staff. Things get lively on weekends, with DJs spinning highly danceable grooves from the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s.
8Information
The tourist office (%945 16 15 98; www.vitoria-gasteiz.org/turismo; Plaza de España 1; h10am-8pm Jul-Sep, 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun Oct-Jun) is in the central square of the old town. It can organise fascinating guided tours of the numerous giant wall murals of the city, and tours out to the extensive green spaces and birdwatching sites that fringe the city.
8Getting There & Away
There are car parks by the train station, by the Artium, and just east of the cathedral.
Vitoria’s bus station (www.vitoria-gasteiz.org; Plaza de Euskaltzaindia) has regular services to the following:
| Destination | Fare (€) | Duration (hr) |
|---|---|---|
| Barcelona | from 32 | 7 |
| Bilbao | 6.30 | 1¼ |
| Madrid | 27 | 4½ |
| Pamplona | from 8 | 1¾ |
| San Sebastián | from 7 | 1¼ |
Trains go to the following:
| Destination | Fare (€) | duration (hr) | Frequency (daily) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Barcelona | from 44 | 5 | 1 |
| Madrid | from 42 | 4-6 | 5 |
| Pamplona | from 6 | 1 | 5 |
| San Sebastián | from 13 | 1¾ | up to 10 |
8Getting Around
Vitoria-Gasteiz is a bike-friendly city; to hire one, get in touch with Capital Bikes (%691 112292; www.capitalbikes.es; Casa de la Dehesa de Olárizu; bike per hour/day €5/13, electric bike per hour/day €8/30; h10am-3pm Tue-Fri, 9am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Sat & Sun), who will deliver a bike to you.
Navarra
Several Spains intersect in Navarra (Nafarroa in Basque). The soft greens and bracing climate of the Navarran Pyrenees lie like a cool compress across the sun-struck brow of the south, which is all stark plains, cereal crops and vineyards, sliced by high sierras with cockscombs of raw limestone. Navarra is also pilgrim territory: for centuries the faithful have used the pass at Roncesvalles to cross from France on their way to Santiago de Compostela.
Navarra was historically the heartland of the Basques, but dynastic struggles and trimming due to reactionary politics, including Francoism, have left it a semi-autonomous province, with the north being Basque by nature and the south leaning towards Castilian Spain.
The Navarran capital, Pamplona, tends to grab the headlines with its world-famous running of the bulls, but the region’s real charm is in its spectacularly diverse landscapes and its picturesque small towns and villages.
Pamplona
POP 201,300 / ELEV 456M
Senses are heightened in Pamplona (Basque: Iruña), capital of the fiercely independent Kingdom of Navarra and home to one of Spain’s most famous and wildest festivals. Yet even when the bulls aren’t thundering down the cobblestones through the centre of town, Pamplona makes a fascinating place to explore. With its grand cathedral, archaeological treasures and 16th-century fortifications, there’s much history hidden in these atmospheric medieval lanes. And with its lush parks and picturesque city centre full of vibrant eating and drinking spots, it’s easy to see why so many – Hemingway included – have fallen under Pamplona’s spell. The village also sees its fair share of pilgrims arriving on foot along the Camino de Santiago, a tradition that dates back many centuries.
Pamplona
1Top Sights
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
oMuseo de Navarra MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %848 42 89 26; www.cfnavarra.es/cultura/museo; Calle Cuesta de Santo Domingo 47; adult/student/child €2/1/free, free Sat afternoon & Sun; h9.30am-2pm & 5-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun)
Housed in a former medieval hospital, this superb museum has an eclectic collection of archaeological finds (including a number of fantastic Roman mosaics unearthed mainly in southern Navarra), as well as a selection of art, including Goya’s Marqués de San Adrián. Labelling is in Spanish only, but foreign translation leaflets are available.
Catedral de Santa María CATHEDRAL
(www.catedraldepamplona.com; Calle Dormitalería; adult/child €5/3; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar)
Pamplona’s main cathedral stands on a rise just inside the city ramparts amid a dark thicket of narrow streets. The cathedral is a late-medieval Gothic gem spoiled only by its rather dull neoclassical facade, an 18th-century appendage. The vast interior reveals some fine artefacts, including a silver-plated Virgin and the splendid 15th-century tomb of Carlos III of Navarra and his wife Doña Leonor. The real joy is the Gothic cloister, where there is marvellous delicacy in the stonework.
Ciudadela FORTRESS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Avenida del Ejército; h8am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, from 9am Sun) F
The walls and bulwarks of the grand fortified citadel, the star-shaped Ciudadela, were built between 1571 and 1645 under the direction of King Felipe II. They’re considered one of the best examples of military architecture from the Spanish Renaissance. The former moats and bastions have become a setting for artists to display their works in the evenings from 6.30pm to 9pm, and on weekends from noon to 2pm.
Centro de Interpretación de las Fortificaciones de Pamplona MUSEUM
(Interpretation Center of the Fortifications of Pamplona; %948 21 15 54; www.murallasdepamplona.com; cnr Calles Arrieta & Aralar; adult/child €3/1.50; h11am-2pm & 5-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Nov-Mar)
If these walls could talk. This excellent interpretation centre, located in the Fortín de San Bartolomé, explains the design and function of Pamplona’s original fortifications, whose construction dates from the 16th century. It’s still considered one of the best preserved bastions in Europe. Among the many curiosities in the museum: centuries-old graffiti, most likely created by guardsmen.
4Sleeping
Outside of Sanfermines, you’ll find a wide selection of enticing lodging options within the old centre. During the big festival, hotels raise their rates mercilessly – all quadruple their normal rack rates and many increase them fivefold – and it can be nearly impossible to get a room without reserving between six months and a year in advance.
Hostel Hemingway HOSTEL€
(%948 98 38 84; www.hostelhemingway.com; Calle Amaya 26; dm €17-20, s/d from €35/42; iW)
This well-run hostel, located a few minutes’ walk from the old town, was renovated in 2013. Clean and friendly, with a lounge where you can meet other travellers (or browse books, listen to music, put on a film), it’s a great budget pick. There’s also a communal kitchen.
Hostal Arriazu HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %948 21 02 02; www.hostalarriazu.com; Calle Comedias 14; r €54-84; W)
Falling somewhere between a budget pensión and a midrange hotel, this good-value option is located in a former theatre. The 14 rooms are pleasingly old-fashioned, though the en suite bathrooms are perfectly modern. There’s also a pretty courtyard and an appealing lounge area.
Hotel Maisonnave HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %948 22 26 00; www.hotelmaisonnave.es; Calle Nueva 20; d from €99; aW)
In an excellent location near the centre of the old town, Hotel Maisonnave has friendly service and modern, attractively designed wood-floored rooms with all the creature comforts (including a small fitness centre, a sauna and a good restaurant). Book a superior room or a suite for views over the rooftops and church steeples of the historic quarter.
Sercotel Europa HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %948 22 18 00; www.hoteleuropapamplona.com; Espoz y Mina 11; s/d from €80/95; W)
Though the building is better known for its restaurant, the sleek Europa – part of the quality Sercotel chain – also features several floors of modern hotel rooms. Note that the most economical accommodations are tiny and windowless, but the location is tough to beat.
oPalacio Guendulain HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %948 22 55 22; www.palacioguendulain.com; Calle de la Zapatería 53; d from €160; paW)
Inside the converted former home of the viceroy of New Granada, this sumptuous hotel offers Pamplona’s most atmospheric overnights. On arrival, you’re greeted by a museum-piece 17th-century carriage and a collection of classic cars being guarded by the viceroy’s private chapel. The rooms contain Princess and the Pea–soft beds, enormous showers and regal armchairs.
THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS
Liberated, obsessive or plain mad is how you might describe aficionados (and there are many) who regularly take part in Pamplona’s Sanfermines (Fiesta de San Fermín), a nonstop cacophony of music, dance, fireworks and processions – and the small matter of running alongside a handful of agitated, horn-tossing toros (bulls) – that takes place from 6 to 14 July each year.
The bullrun is said to have originally developed way back in the 14th century as a way of herding bulls into market, with the seller running alongside the bulls to speed up their movement into the marketplace. In later times the same technique was used to transport bulls from the corrals to the bullring, and essentially that is still the case today. El encierro, the running of the bulls from their corrals to the bullring for the afternoon bullfight, takes place in Pamplona every morning during Sanfermines. Six bulls are let loose from the Coralillos de Santo Domingo to charge across the square of the same name. They continue up the street, veering onto Calle de los Mercaderes from Plaza Consistorial, then sweep right onto Calle de la Estafeta for the final charge to the ring. Devotees, known as mozos (the brave or foolish, depending on your point of view), race madly with the bulls, aiming to keep close – but not too close. The total course is some 825m long and lasts little more than three minutes.
Participants enter the course before 7.30am from Plaza de Santo Domingo. At 8am two rockets are fired: the first announces that the bulls have been released from the corrals; the second lets participants know they’re all out and running. The first danger point is where Calle de los Mercaderes leads into Calle de la Estafeta. Here many of the bulls skid into the barriers because of their headlong speed on the turn. They can become isolated from the herd and are then always dangerous. A very treacherous stretch comes towards the end, where Calle de la Estafeta slopes down into the final turn to Plaza de Toros. A third rocket goes off when all the bulls have made it to the ring and a final one when they have been rounded up in the stalls.
Those who prefer to be spectators rather than action men (and we use the word ‘men’ on purpose here as, technically, women are forbidden from running, although an increasing number are doing it anyway) bag their spot along the route early. A space doesn’t mean an uninterrupted view because a second ‘security’ fence stands between the spectators and runners, blocking much of the view (only police, medical staff and other authorised people can enter the space between the two fences). Some people rent a space on one of the house balconies overlooking the course. Others watch the runners and bulls race out of the entrance tunnel and into the bullring by buying a ticket for a seat in the ring. Whatever the vantage point, it’s all over in a few blurred seconds.
Each evening a traditional bullfight is held. Sanfermines winds up at midnight on 14 July with a candlelit procession, known as the Pobre de Mí (Poor Me), which starts from Plaza Consistorial.
Concern has grown about the high numbers of people taking part in recent encierros. Since records began in 1924, 16 people have died during Pamplona’s bullrun. Many of those who run are full of bravado (and/or drink) and have little idea of what they’re doing. The number of injuries differs from year to year, but serious injuries are common (usually due to goring, but also from pile-ups of participants) and deaths are not unheard of. On top of the dangers to runners, the bulls themselves are all destined to die in the bullring and that aspect of the running, as well as the stress of the run itself and the possibility of the bulls slipping and injuring themselves in the stampede, have led to animal welfare groups condemning the spectacle as a cruel tradition.
5Eating
oBar Gaucho PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.cafebargaucho.com; Espoz y Mina 7; pintxos €2-4; h8am-3pm & 6.30-11pm)
This bustling bar serves multi-award-winning pintxos that, despite some serious competition, many a local will tell you are the finest in the city.
La Cocina De Alex Múgica PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %948 51 01 25; www.alexmugica.com; Estafeta 24; pintxos from €2; h1-5pm Tue-Sun & 7-11pm Tue-Sat)
Go early to score a place at this much-loved pintxos institution. Culinary whiz kid Alex Múgica has a devoted local following for his mix of traditional and cutting-edge combinations, including some delicious anchoas con txangurro (anchovies with spider crab) served in a sardine tin.
Baserri BASQUE€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %948 22 20 21; www.restaurantebaserri.com; Calle de San Nicolás 32; tasting menu €25-40, pintxos from €2; hpintxos bar noon-11.30pm Tue-Sun, restaurant 1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun)
This place, one of many bars, restaurants, and cafés on busy Calle San Nicolás, has won numerous awards for its pintxos. Highlights include ceviche, potatoes with red curry, and jamon croquettes.
Restaurante Rodero SPANISH€€€
(%948 22 80 35; http://restauranterodero.com; Calle Emilio Arrieta 3; menus €65-78, mains €26-32; h1.30-3.30pm Mon-Sat & 9-11pm Wed-Sat)
For a memorable meal, book a table at this Michelin-starred, family-run restaurant just east of the bullring. Celebrated chef Koldo Rodero uses the finest Navarran ingredients to create imaginative dishes that dazzle the senses. Friendly service and an elegant dining room add to the charm.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Café Iruña CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.cafeiruna.com; Plaza del Castillo 44; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, from 9am Fri-Sun)
Opened on the eve of Sanfermines in 1888, Café Iruña’s dominant position, powerful sense of history and belle époque decor make this by far the most famous watering hole in the city. In addition to a long list of wine and spirits, it also has a good range of pintxos and light meals.
Hemingway was a regular here – indeed, he helped immortalise the place in his novel The Sun Also Rises.
Vermuteria Darlalata BAR
(www.facebook.com/vermuteriadarlalata; Calle Navarro Villoslada 14; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Just off the beaten path, this delightful little corner bar has obvious charm with its vintage decor, friendly barkeeps and delicious spread of pintxos. The real draw though is the collection of vermouths, with more than 80 varieties on hand. It’s a jovial, but easygoing space, welcome to all, that draws a fine cross-section of Pamplona society.
7Shopping
Kukuxumusu CLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.kukuxumusu.com; Estafeta 76; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat)
With shops all around the Basque Country, this long-running clothing company was born right here in Pamplona during a the San Fermín festival in 1989. Here you’ll find Kukuxumusu’s iconic T-shirts that feature whimsical images of cartoon bulls in various poses. You’ll also find bags, wallets, mugs, magnets, stickers and other gear.
8Information
The extremely well-organised tourist information office (%948 42 07 00; www.turismo.navarra.es; Plaza Consistorial; h10am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun, 9am-2pm & 3-8pm daily mid-Jun–mid-Sep), just opposite the statue of the bulls in the new town, has plenty of information about the city and Navarra. There are a couple of summer-only tourist info booths scattered throughout the city.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Pamplona’s airport (%902 40 47 04; www.aena.es; W), about 7km south of the city, has regular flights to Madrid and Barcelona. Bus 16 travels every 15 minutes or so between the bus station in the city to the suburb of Noáin (20 minutes) from where it’s about an 800m walk to the airport. A taxi costs €15 to €20.
BUS
From the main bus station (%902 02 36 51; www.estaciondeautobusesdepamplona.com; Ave de Yanguas y Miranda 2), which is cleverly concealed underground near La Ciudadela, buses leave for most towns throughout Navarra. Service is restricted on Sunday.
Regular bus services travel to the following places:
| Destination | Fare (€) | Duration (hr) |
|---|---|---|
| Bilbao | 15 | 2-2½ |
| Logroño | 10 | 2 |
| San Sebastián | 8 | 1-1½ |
| Vitoria | 9 | 1¼-2 |
Regional destinations include the following:
| Destination | Fare (€) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Estella | 5.25 | 1 | 10 daily |
| Olite | 3.75 | ¾ | 16 daily |
TRAIN
Pamplona’s train station is linked to the city centre by bus 9 from Paseo de Sarasate every 15 minutes. Buy tickets online or at the station.
Note that it’s much quicker to take the bus to San Sebastián. Trains run to/from the following:
| Destination | Fare (€) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Madrid | 42-66 | 3 | 4 daily |
| San Sebastián | 16-22 | 2 | 2 daily |
| Tudela | 9-18 | 1 | 5 daily |
| Vitoria | 7-12 | 1 | 4 daily |
Navarran Pyrenees
Awash in greens and often concealed in mists, the rolling hills, ribboned cliffs, clammy forests and snow-plastered mountains that make up the Navarran Pyrenees are a playground for outdoor enthusiasts and pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. Despite being firmly Basque in history, culture and outlook, there is something of a different feeling to the tiny towns and villages that hug these slopes. Perhaps it’s their proximity to France, but in general they seem somehow more prim and proper than many of the lowland towns. This only adds to the charm of exploring what are, without doubt, some of the most delightful and least exploited mountains in western Europe.
Valle del Baztán
This is rural Basque Country at its most typical, a landscape of splotchy reds and greens. Minor roads take you in and out of charming little villages, such as Arraioz, known for the fortified Casa Jaureguizar; and Ziga, with its 16th-century church. Just beyond Irurita on the N121B is the valley’s biggest town, Elizondo, a good base for exploring the area.
Beyond Elizondo, the NA2600 road meanders dreamily amid picturesque farms, villages and hills before climbing sharply to the French border pass of Puerto de Izpegui, where the world becomes a spectacular collision of crags, peaks and valleys. At the pass, you can stop for a short, sharp hike up to the top of Mt Izpegui.
The N121B continues northwards to the Puerto de Otxondo and the border crossing into France at Dantxarinea. Just before the border, a minor road veers west to the almost overly pretty village of Zugarramurdi.
1Sights
La Cueva de Zugarramurdi CAVE
(www.turismozugarramurdi.com; Zugarramurdi; adult/child €4/2; h11am-7.30pm Jul-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Jun)
According to the Inquisition, these caves (also known as Cuevas de Las Brujas, or Caves of the Witches) were once the scene of evil debauchery. True to form, inquisitors tortured and burned scores of alleged witches here. The caves are a short walk west of the village centre of Zugarramurdi.
Museo de las Brujas MUSEUM
(www.turismozugarramurdi.com; Calle Beitikokarrika 22, Zugarramurdi; adult/child €4.50/2; h11am-7.30pm Tue-Sun mid-Jul–mid-Sep, 11am-6pm Wed-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jul)
Playing on the flying-broomstick theme of La Cueva de Zugarramurdi, this museum is a fascinating dip into the mysterious cauldron of witchcraft in the Pyrenees. The museum is near the centre of the village of Zugarramurdi.
4Sleeping
Hostal Trinquete Antxitónea HOSTAL€€
(%948 58 18 07; www.antxitonea.com; Braulío Iríarte 16, Elizondo; d/tr from €66/91; W)
This well-run hostal has plain rooms with flower-bedecked balconies, some with river views. The attached restaurant (mains €11 to €16) is worth a stop.
8Getting There & Away
Most travellers drive here. Zugarramurdi is located about 80km north of Pamplona via N121A.
Burguete
POP 240
A steady stream of pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago pass through this quaint 12th-century town. The main road runs tightly between neat, whitewashed houses with bare cornerstones at Burguete (Basque: Auritz), lending a more sober French air to things. Despite lacking the history, it actually makes a better night’s halt than nearby Roncesvalles.
4Sleeping
Hostal Burguete GUESTHOUSE€
(%948 76 00 05; www.hotelburguete.com; San Nicolás 71; s/d/tr €44/59/79; W)
On the main street in peaceful Burguete, this pleasant inn has 20 simple rooms with wood furnishings and rustic touches. Hemingway fans should try to book room 23, where Hemingway allegedly wrote much of The Sun Also Rises during one of his many stays in the area.
Camping Urrobi CAMPGROUND€
(%948 76 02 00; www.campingurrobi.com; campsite incl 2 adults & car €30, bungalow for up to 3 people €74, dm from €12; hApr-Oct; pW
s)
Campers will be happy at this riverside campsite a few kilometres south of town. It also has a hostel and bungalows.
Hotel Rural Loizu HOTEL€€
(%948 76 00 08; www.loizu.com; Calle de San Nicolás 13; s/d from €63/87; hApr-Dec; pW)
In the sleepy village of Burguete, this is a pleasant country hotel whose upper rooms have attractive beams and exposed stone walls, plus fine views over the countryside. Downstairs, there’s a good restaurant (mains €12 to €20).
8Getting There & Away
Most visitors arrive by car or on foot, but there’s also regular bus service to Pamplona (€5.50, one hour).
Roncesvalles
POP 30
History hangs heavily in the air of Roncesvalles (Basque: Orreaga). Legend has it that it was here that the armies of Charlemagne were defeated and Roland, commander of Charlemagne’s rearguard, was killed by Basque tribes in 778. This event is celebrated in the epic 11th-century poem Chanson de Roland (Song of Roland) and is still talked about by today’s Basques. In addition to violence and bloodshed, though, Roncesvalles has long been a key point on the road to Santiago de Compostela, and today Camino pilgrims continue to give thanks at the famous monastery for a successful crossing of the Pyrenees, one of the hardest parts of the Camino de Santiago.
The main event here is the monastery complex (%948 79 04 80; www.roncesvalles.es; guided tours adult/child €5/2.50; h10am-2pm & 3.30-7pm Apr-Oct, 10am-2pm & 3-6pm Nov & Mar, 10.30am-2.30pm Thu-Tue Dec & Feb), which contains a number of different buildings of interest.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
SIERRA DE ARALAR
One of Navarra’s many natural parks, the scenic Sierra de Aralar offers pleasant walking and dramatic drives. There’s not much to Lekunberri, the area’s main town, except a gaggle of solid Basque farmhouses in the old quarter and an ever-growing estate of soulless modern housing beyond.
For most, the main reason for visiting Lekunberri is to travel the bendy back road NA1510, which leads southwest through a tasty tapestry of mixed deciduous and evergreen forests to culminate (after 21km) at the Santuario de San Miguel de Aralar (www.aralarkosanmigel.info; Monte Aralar; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm) F.
The tourist office (%948 50 72 04; www.plazaola.org; Plazaola 21, Lekunberri; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun) here is very helpful and can advise on the numerous fantastic walks the area offers.
1Sights
Real Colegiata de Santa María CHURCH
(%948 79 04 80; h9am-8.30pm) F
The 13th-century Gothic Real Colegiata de Santa María, a good example of Navarran Gothic architecture, contains a much-revered, silver-covered statue of the Virgin beneath a modernist-looking canopy worthy of Frank Gehry.
4Sleeping
Casa de Beneficiados HOTEL€€
(%948 76 01 05; www.casadebeneficiados.com; Orreaga-Roncesvalles; s/d/tr €80/90/115, apt €90-150; hmid-Mar–Dec; W)
In a former life this was an 18th-century monks’ residence. Today it has attractive rooms, some with fine views over the countryside, and the atmospheric common areas make fine places to unwind after a day’s hike. You can also dine at the good-value restaurant on site, hire bicycles or arrange horse-riding trips.
8Getting There & Away
Many travellers arrive on foot or by car, but you can also get to Roncesvalles by bus from Pamplona (€5, one hour); these run twice a day from July through September, and once a day the rest of the year.
In the summer, four daily buses connect Roncesvalles with St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (€5, 40 minutes).
Ochagavía
POP 540
This charming Pyrenean town lying astride narrow Río Zatoya sets itself quite apart from the villages further south. Grey stone, slate and cobblestones dominate the old centre, which straddles a bubbling stream crossed by a pleasant medieval bridge. The town’s sober dignity is reinforced by the looming presence of the Iglesia de San Juan Evangelista.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal Casa Sario HOTEL€
(%948 89 01 87; www.casasario.com; Llana 11, Jaurrieta; s/d/tr €47/65/80; W)
Hotel Rural Auñamendi HOTEL€€
(%948 89 01 89; www.hotelruralaunamendi.com; Urrutià 23; d/tr €80/105; W)
After extensive renovations in 2014, this lovely hotel in peaceful Ochagavía is a top pick for its 11 bright, spacious rooms, comfortable public spaces, and coffee bar with outdoor terrace seating.
The restaurant is a reliable spot for a meal or some pintxos.
Asador Sideria Kixkia BASQUE€€
(%646 387407; www.kixkia.com; Urrutia 59; menús €25-33; h1-3.30pm & 9-11pm; 
#)
There are plenty of places to eat in the area, but it’s hard to beat the earthy, rural atmosphere and filling mountain food of the Asador Sideria Kixkia at the northern end of the village.
THE CAMINO IN NAVARRA & LA RIOJA
At the gates of Spain, Navarra is the first Spanish leg of the journey to Santiago de Compostela for walkers on the Camino Francés route. The opening section, which crosses over the Pyrenees, is also one of the most spectacular parts of the entire Camino.
Roncesvalles to Pamplona
From the Puerto de Ibañeta, the Camino dramatically enters Spain and drops down to Roncesvalles. Dominated by its great, imposing abbey, Roncesvalles admirably sets the tone for this extraordinary route. Inside the heavily restored 13th-century Gothic church, you’ll find the first statue of Santiago dressed as a pilgrim (with scallop shells and staff).
Pamplona became an official stop along the Camino in the 11th century, cementing its prosperity. Just inside the cathedral’s bland neoclassical facade are the pure, soaring lines of the 14th-century Gothic interior.
Pamplona to Logroño & Beyond
Heading west out of Pamplona via Zariquiegui and the Sierra del Perdón, pilgrims reach Puente la Reina, where the Camino Aragonés, coming from the east, joins up with the Camino Francés.
Estella, the next stop, contains exceptional monumental Romanesque architecture: the outstanding portal of the Iglesia de San Miguel; the cloister of the Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa; and the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra.
Outside Estella, evergreen oaks and vineyards fill undulating landscapes until a long, barren stretch leads through the sleepy towns of Los Arcos, Sansol and Torres del Río. In hillside Torres you’ll find another remarkably intact eight-sided Romanesque chapel, the Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro.
The great Río Ebro marks the entrance to Logroño and explains its wealth and size. The dour Gothic Iglesia de Santiago houses a large Renaissance altarpiece depicting unusual scenes from the saint’s life, including run-ins with the wicked necromancer Hermogenes.
Nájera literally grew out of the town’s red cliff wall when King Ramiro discovered a miraculous statue of the Virgin in one of the cliff’s caves in the 11th century.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada is one of the road’s most captivating places. It is named for its energetic 11th-century founder, Santo Domingo, who cleared forests, built roadways, a bridge, a pilgrim’s hospice and a church, and performed many wondrous miracles depicted masterfully in Hispano-Flemish paintings in the cathedral.
8Getting There & Away
There’s one daily ALSA bus departing Ochagavía for Pamplona at 9am (€9.15, 1½ hours), returning from Pamplona at 3pm. There’s no service on Sundays.
To reach France, take the NA140 northeast from Ochagavía into the Sierra de Abodi and cross at the Puerto de Larrau (1585m), a majestically bleak pass.
Valle del Roncal
Navarra’s most spectacular mountain area is around Roncal, and this easternmost valley, made up of seven villages, is an alternative route for leaving or entering the Navarran Pyrenees.
BURGUI
POP 220
The gateway to this part of the Pyrenees is Burgui – an enchanting huddle of stone houses built beside a clear, gushing stream (the Río Esca) bursting with frogs and fish and crossed via a humpbacked Roman bridge.
Burgui isn’t well served by public transport. The village is roughly a one-hour drive east of Pamplona via A21.
Hostal El Almadiero HOSTAL€€
(%948 47 70 86; www.almadiero.com; Plaza Padre Tomás de Burgui 1; d from €65; aW)
In the heart of the village, this pleasant hostal rural has bright, cosy rooms with 19th-century charm and a first-rate restaurant on site.
RONCAL
POP 210
The largest centre along this road, though still firmly a village, Roncal is a place of cobblestone alleyways that twist and turn between dark stone houses and meander down to a river full of trout.
ISABA
POP 440
Lording it over the other villages in the valley, lofty Isaba, lying above the confluence of Ríos Belagua and Uztárroz, is another popular base for walkers and skiers. Heading north out of town towards the French border, the scenery becomes ever more spectacular. The road starts off confined between mountain peaks before suddenly opening out into high Alpine pastures with a backdrop of the most majestic mountains in the western Pyrenees. Approaching the French border the road corkscrews up and up to the pass of Roncalia, where you’ll find a small ski resort. Beyond is France and another, larger ski resort, Pierre St Martin. There are signed walking trails on both sides of the border.
Stop by the tourist office (%948 89 32 51; www.vallederoncal.es; Barrio Izargentea 28; h10am-1.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm mid-Jul–mid-Sep, Sat & Sun only mid-Sep–mid-Jul) in the village centre for info on nearby walks and other activities.
Most travellers arrive here in their own cars, but you could also take a La Tafallesa bus from Pamplona to nearby Uztárroz (€10, two hours) and then hire a taxi into Isaba (from €15, 15 minutes).
Onki Xin GUESTHOUSE€
(%618 317837; http://onkixin.com; Barrio Izarjentea 25; d €55, apt €110-140; W)
In a traditional house in the village centre, Onki Zin offers nine attractive rooms with beamed ceilings, antique furnishings and fine views. For a bit more space, book one of Onki Xin’s spacious 2- or 3-bedroom apartments just around the corner. The kind English-speaking owners have a wealth of information on exploring the region.
Hostal Lola HOTEL€€
(%948 89 30 12; www.hostal-lola.com; Mendigatxa 17; d €75; W)
This family-run place hidden down a narrow side alley offers probably the best value for money and has rooms loaded with desks, sofas and big beds. There’s a nice flower-hemmed terrace and a decent restaurant (menú del día €15).
Ezkaurre Restaurant BASQUE€€
(%657 621467; www.restauranteezkaurre.es; Garagardoya 14; menú del día €18; h1-3.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm)
This humble-looking eatery serves up beautifully prepared recipes that feature market-fresh ingredients. Oven-baked trout, beef cheeks with truffled potatoes and risotto with mushroom and bacon are recent highlights.
Southern Navarra
Take the A15 south of Pamplona and you only have to drive for 15 minutes before you enter an entirely new world. Within the space of just a few kilometres, the deep greens that you have grown to love in the Basque regions and northern Navarra vanish, replaced with a lighter and more Mediterranean ochre. As the sunlight becomes more dazzling (and more common!), the shark’s-teeth hills of the north flatten into tranquil lowland plains, while the wet forests become scorched vineyards and olive groves, and even the people change – they’re more gregarious and, as the graffiti suggests, sometimes fiercely anti-Basque. Awaiting travellers in this region are several medieval villages that look straight out of a fairy tale, plus the unlikely desert-like landscape of the Bárdenas Reales, Navarra’s very own badlands.
Olite
POP 3890 / ELEV 365M
The turrets and spires of Olite are filled with stories of kings and queens, brave knights and beautiful princesses – it’s as if it has burst off the pages of a fairy tale. Though it might seem a little hard to believe today, this quiet village was once the home of the royal families of Navarra, and the walled old quarter is crowded with their memories.
Founded by the Romans (parts of the town wall date back to Roman times), Olite first attracted the attention of royalty in 1276. However, it didn’t really take off until it caught the fancy of King Carlos III (Carlos the Noble) in the 15th century, when he embarked on a series of daring building projects.
1Sights
Palacio Real CASTLE
(Castillo de Olite; www.guiartenavarra.com; Plaza Carlos III; adult/child €3.50/2; h10am-8pm Jul-Aug, 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun May-Jun & Sep, shorter hours Oct-Apr)
It’s Carlos III that we must thank for the exceptional Palacio Real, which towers over the village. Back in Carlos’ day (early 15th century), the inhabitants of the castle included not just royalty but also lions and other exotic pets, as well as Babylon-inspired hanging gardens. Today, the restored castle makes a wonderfully atmospheric place to wander. To help bring the past come alive, take a guided tour, or explore at your own pace with a handy audioguide (€2).
You can clamber up scenic watchtowers, wander through once richly gilded halls, and stroll the ramparts, all while imagining the jousts, bullfights and even pelota games held back in medieval times. Integrated into the castle is the Iglesia de Santa María la Real, which has a superbly detailed Gothic portal.
Laguna de Pitillas LAKE
F The lakes and marshes that make up the Laguna de Pitillas are one of the top birding sites in Navarra. Now a protected Ramsar wetland site of international importance, the Laguna de Pitillas provides a home for around 160 permanent and migratory species, including marsh harriers, great bitterns and even ospreys.
Museo de la Viña y el Vino de Navarra MUSEUM
(www.guiartenavarra.com; Plaza de los Teobaldos 10; adult/child €3.50/2; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Mar-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Feb)
Don’t miss this museum, which takes visitors on a fascinating journey through wine and wine culture. Over three floors, English signage and interactive displays reveal the grape in all its complexity, from the soils and grape varieties found in Navarra to old-fashioned harvesting techniques. There’s also a case of scents (animal, spices, wood, etc) where you can breathe in a few common elements found in many wines.
4Sleeping & Eating
oParador de Olite HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%948 74 00 00; www.parador.es; Plaza de los Teobaldos 2; r from €135; ai)
The most spectacular lodging option in town is set in a wing of Olite’s restored medieval castle (though some rooms are in a newer extension). Part of the Parador chain and a national monument, this photogenic hotel, with its heavy wood furniture and gilt-framed prints (some also have balconies with views over the countryside), has plenty of atmosphere. There’s a superb restaurant as well.
Hotel el Juglar BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%948 74 18 55; www.merindaddeolitehoteles.com; Rúa Romana 39; s/d/ste €100/115/155; paWs)
Hotel El Juglar has top-notch service and handsomely appointed rooms set in stone-walled mansion 10 minutes’ walk (800m) northwest of the village centre. The nine rooms here are all slightly different from one another (some have big round Jacuzzi baths, others balconies), though all have elegant furnishings. The pool is rather enticing on a hot summer day.
Hotel Merindad de Olite HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%948 74 07 35; www.merindaddeolitehoteles.com; Rúa de la Judería 11; s €58-68, d €68-84, ste €104; aW)
Built almost into the old town walls, this charming place has small but comfortable rooms and masses of medieval style. Reserve well ahead because it fills quickly.
8Information
Olite has a friendly and helpful tourist office (%948 74 17 03; Plaza de los Teobaldos 10; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun), in the same building as the wine museum.
8Getting There & Away
Up to 16 buses a day run between Olite and Pamplona (€3.75, 45 minutes). The bus from Pamplona drops passengers near the entrance to the walled city. Heading back to the city, catch the bus outside Olite’s historic area, at the bus shelters on the road to Pamplona.
Ujué
POP 180
Balancing atop a hill criss-crossed with terraced fields, the tiny village of Ujué, some 18km east of Olite and overlooking the plains of southern Navarra, is a perfect example of a fortified medieval village. Today the almost immaculately preserved township is sleepy and pretty, with steep, narrow streets tumbling down the hillside.
The village plays host to a fascinating romería (pilgrimage) on the first Sunday after St Mark’s Day (25 April), when hundreds of people walk through the night from Tudela to celebrate Mass in the village church.
Iglesia-Fortaleza de Santa María de Ujué CHURCH
(San Isidro 8; admission by donation; h10am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar)
Standing at the highest point in the village, this church of mixed Romanesque-Gothic style has a commanding presence over the valley. Aside from magnificent views from its outer walkways, the church contains a rare statue of the Black Virgin, which is said to have been discovered by a shepherd who was led to the statue by a dove. In addition to the Virgin, the church also contains the heart of Carlos II.
Pastas Urrutia BAKERY€€
(%948 73 92 57; www.pastasurrutia.com; San Isidro 41; menú del dia €15-18; hbakery 10am-6pm Thu-Tue, restaurant 1.30-3.30pm Thu-Tue)
This bakery just north of the village centre also serves up delicious, three-course lunch specials, which includes Urrutia’s famous house-made bread as well as wine. Expect dishes like oven-baked cod, beef cheeks or eggs with truffles in season (December to February).
8Getting There & Away
Most travellers arrive by car. If you’re taking the bus from Pamplona, you’ll make a connection in Tafalla or Olite, both roughly 20km east of the village.
Parque Natural de las Bárdenas Reales
In a region largely dominated by wet mountain slopes, the last thing you’d expect to find is a sunburnt desert. The Bárdenas Reales are badlands, the dramatic landscape shaped by the forces of water, wind, and erosion.
There are hiking and cycling trails through the park, though many are only vaguely signposted. Given the heat, lack of shade and big distances involved, most people come to drive the park’s 34km-long loop road.
1Sights
Parque Natural de las Bárdenas Reales NATURE RESERVE
(%948 83 03 08; www.bardenasreales.es; h8am-dusk) F
Established as a natural park in 1999 and as a UN Biosphere Reserve in 2000, the Bárdenas Reales is a desiccated landscape of blank tabletop hills, open gravel plains and snakelike gorges covering over 410 sq km of southeastern Navarra. As well as spectacular scenery, the park plays host to numerous birds and animals, including the great bustard, golden eagles, Egyptian and griffon vultures, numerous reptiles, mountain cats and wild boar.
A visitor centre gives out information on park highlights.
4Sleeping
Cuevas Rurales Bardenas BUNGALOW€€€
(%661 846757; www.bardeneras.com; Palomares 23, Valtierra; hapt from €150; aW)
In the small town of Valtierra, you can overnight it inside a cave – albeit one with wi-fi, modern bathrooms, a full kitchen and cheerful furnishings. Nine dwellings carved into the hillside sleep from two to eight, making it a fine choice for families and bigger groups. A two- to four-night minimum stay required.
Hotel Aire de Bardenas BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(%948 11 66 66; www.airedebardenas.com; Carretera de Ejea, Km 1, Tudela; d €225-292, ste €418; paWs)
In a barren landscape well off the beaten path, you’ll find humble shipping crates transformed into a stylish boutique hotel. All rooms have luxurious amenities; some also have exterior bathtubs or patios with views over an expanse of semi-desert. There’s great service, a swimming pool, and a superb in-house restaurant (mains €15 to €25).
8Getting There & Away
There’s no public transport to the park; drive or take a bus or train to nearby Tudela.
Puente la Reina
POP 2810 / ELEV 421M
The chief calling card of Puente la Reina (Basque: Gares), 22km southwest of Pamplona on the A12, is the spectacular six-arched medieval bridge that dominates the western end of town, but Puente la Reina rewards on many other levels. A key stop on the Camino de Santiago, the town’s pretty streets throng with the ghosts of a multitude of pilgrims. Their first stop here was at the late-Romanesque Iglesia del Crucifijo, erected by the Knights Templars and still containing one of the finest Gothic crucifixes in existence. And just a short way out of town is one of the prettiest chapels along the whole Camino. Throw into this mix some fine places to stay and, in the nearby countryside, a ruined Roman city, and the result is a fine place to be based for a day or so.
1Sights
Santa María de Eunate CHURCH
(www.santamariadeeunate.es; Carretera de Campanas; €1; h10.30am-1.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-1.30pm & 4.30-6.30pm Sat & Sun, Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, 10.30am-1.30pm & 5-6.30pm Wed-Mon Jul & Aug)
Surrounded by cornfields and brushed by wild flowers, the near-perfect octagonal Romanesque chapel of Santa María de Eunate is one of the most picturesque chapels along the whole Camino. Dating from around the 12th century its origins – and the reason why it’s located in the middle of nowhere – are something of a mystery. The chapel is 2km southeast of Muruzábal, which is itself 5km northeast of Puente la Reina.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Rural El Cerco BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%948 34 12 69; www.elcerco.es; Calle de Rodrigo Ximénez de Rada 36; s/d €50/75; W)
At the eastern end of the old quarter, this hotel is one of the most charming places to stay in town. It’s housed in an antique building, smartly transformed into a stylish, small boutique hotel with exposed stone walls and wooden roof beams.
Casa Martija CAFE
(www.facebook.com/casamartija; Calle Mayor 104; h8am-2pm & 4.30-9pm)
On a cobblestone lane, a short stroll from the bridge, Casa Martija is a charming deli and cafe that serves up coffees, wines and pastries, with well-placed tables out front. It’s also a fine spot for assembling picnic fare from the cheeses, breads, olive oils and other gourmet goodies on hand.
8Getting There & Away
Frequent buses (€5.25, one hour) run between Pamplona’s bus station and Estella; they all stop along the main road in the village of Puente la Reina.
Estella
POP 13,700 / ELEV 483M
Estella (Basque: Lizarra) was known as ‘La Bella’ in medieval times because of the splendour of its monuments and buildings, and though the city has lost some of its beauty to modern suburbs, its historic centre is still thoroughly charming. During the 11th century, Estella became the main reception point for the growing flood of pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago. Today most visitors are continuing that same plodding tradition.
1Sights
Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa CHURCH
(%948 55 00 70; h10am-1.30pm & 6-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun, shorter hours Nov-Mar) F
This 12th-century church is the most important monument in Estella. Its cloisters are a fine example of Romanesque sculptural work.
Museo Gustavo de Maeztu PALACE
(www.museogustavodemaeztu.com; Calle San Nicolás 1, Palacio de los Reyes; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat May-Sep, 9.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr) F
Adjacent to the tourist office is the Palacio de los Reyes, a rare example of Romanesque civil construction. It houses a museum with an intriguing collection of paintings by Gustavo de Maeztu y Whitney (1887–1947), who was of Cuban-English parentage but emphatically Basque in upbringing and identity. Landscapes, portraits and full-bodied nudes reflect Maeztu’s engaging sensual romanticism.
Los Llanos PARK
(Paseo los Llanos)
This lush park just south of the centre makes a pleasant escape from medieval monuments. The trickling Río Ega forms the southern boundary of the greenery, and there’s a snack bar near the riverbank where you can unwind with a drink and gaze at the cliffs edging up beyond the river.
WORTH A TRIP
MONASTIC WANDERS
The countryside around Estella is littered with monasteries. One of the best is the Monasterio de Irache (off Carretera NA-1110, Ayegui; h10am-1.15pm & 4-6pm Wed-Sun, mid-Jan–mid-Nov) F, 3km southwest of Estella, near Ayegui. This ancient Benedictine monastery has a lovely 16th-century plateresque cloister and its Puerta Especiosa is decorated with delicate sculptures. Those unimpressed by beauty dedicated to God may find the Fuente de Vino (Fountain of Wine) enough to make them a believer. It’s behind the Bodegas Irache (%948 55 19 32; www.irache.com; Monasterio de Irache, off Carretera NA-1110, Ayegui; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm weekends, to 6pm in winter), a well-known local wine producer (just in front of the church), and yes, it really is a free-flowing wine fountain, though you’ll have to get there early since only 100 litres are released per day.
About 10km north of Estella, near Abárzuza, is the Monasterio de Iranzu (off Carretera NA-7135, Abárzuza; €3; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm). Originally founded way back in the 11th century, but recently restored, this sand-coloured monastery with beautiful cloisters is so calm and tranquil that it could inspire religious meditation in Lucifer himself.
zFestivals & Events
Semana Medieval CULTURAL
(hmid-Jul)
For one week in mid-July, Estella hosts its exuberant medieval fair, complete with costumed performers, jousts, street theatre, falconry displays, special markets and much merriment.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Tximista DESIGN HOTEL€€
(%948 55 58 70; www.sanvirilahoteles.com/en/hotel-tximista; Zaldu 15; s/d/ste €87/97/120; paW)
About 1km north of the centre, this striking modern hotel, built into and out of an old watermill, mixes rusty old industrial cogs and wheels from the mill with poppy-red artwork. Rooms are comfortable, although some suffer from road noise, and there’s a nice garden overlooking the gurgling river.
Hospedería Chapitel HOTEL€€
(%948 55 10 90; www.hospederiachapitel.com; Chapitel 1; s/d from €80/105; pW)
In a great location in Estella’s historic centre, Hospedería Chapitel has comfortable rooms with wood floors, beamed ceilings and small balconies – some with views of the cathedral. Despite the central location, it’s quite peaceful inside.
Casanellas Taller Gastronómico FUSION€€
(%638 912838; www.tallergastronomico.es; Espoz y Mina 3; mains €16-20, tasting menu weekday/weekend €35/45; h1.30-3.30pm Tue-Sat)
A purveyor of slow cooking, this elegant restaurant uses local products with global touches to create beautifully executed recipes. The market-fresh menu features dishes like duck with pineapple and red curry, lamb with rosemary, and a perfectly cooked turbot.
8Getting There & Away
Buses leave from the bus station (Plaza Coronación) for Pamplona (€5.25, one hour, 10 daily Monday to Friday, six daily Saturday and Sunday).
Javier
POP 110 / ELEV 448M
Tiny Javier (Xavier), 11km northeast of Sangüesa, is a quiet rural village set in gentle green countryside. It’s utterly dominated by a childhood-fantasy castle that is so perfectly preserved you half expect the drawbridge to come crashing down and a knight in armour to gallop out on a white steed. As well as being an inspiration for fairytale dreams, this is also the birthplace of the patron saint of Navarra, San Francisco Xavier, who was born in the village in 1506. Xavier spent much of his life travelling, preaching, teaching and healing in Asia. Today his body lies in a miraculous state of preservation in a cathedral in Goa, India.
1Sights
Castillo de Javier CASTLE
(%948 88 40 24; Plaza del Santo, Javier; €2.75; h10am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)
This tenth-century castle, strategically located on the border between the kingdoms of Navarra y Aragón, is Javier’s main attraction. Inside, there’s a small museum dedicated to the life of San Francisco Xavier, the patron saint of Navarra, who was born in the village in 1506.
4Sleeping
Hotel Xabier HOTEL€
(%948 88 40 06; www.hotelxabier.com; Paseo de la Abadía 2, Javier; s/d/tr €47/56/71; pW)
If you want to sleep near the castle, stay at the red-brick, ivy-clad Hotel Xabier. You can peer out of your window on a moonlit night and look for ghosts flitting around the castle keep. There’s a good restaurant here (menú del día €20).
8Getting There & Away
Most travellers come here by car. Several daily buses serve Sangüesa from Pamplona’s bus station; Javier is a short taxi ride away. Tafallesa buses also go directly to Javier, usually once a day, from Pamplona’s bus station.
La Rioja
Get out the copas (glasses) for La Rioja and some of the best red wines produced in the country. Wine goes well with the region’s ochre earth and vast blue skies, which seem far more Mediterranean than the Basque greens further north. In fact, it’s hard not to feel as if you’re in a different country altogether. The bulk of the vineyards line Río Ebro around the town of Haro, but some also extend into neighbouring Navarra and the Basque province of Álava. This diverse region offers more than just the pleasures of the grape, though, and a few days here can see you mixing it up in lively towns and quiet pilgrim churches, and even hunting for the remains of giant reptiles.
Logroño
POP 151,000
Logroño is a stately wine-country town with a heart of tree-studded squares, narrow streets and hidden corners. There are few monuments here, but perhaps more importantly to some, a great selection of pintxos (Basque tapas) bars. In fact, Logroño is quickly gaining a culinary reputation to rival anywhere in Spain.
Logroño
1Top Sights
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
oMuseo de la Rioja MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %941 29 12 59; www.museodelarioja.es; Plaza San Agustín 23; h10am-2pm & 4-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) F
This superb museum in the centre of Logroño takes you on a wild romp through Riojan history and culture in both Spanish and English. Highlights include mystifying Celtiberian stone carvings from the 5th century BC, beautiful jewellery and statuary displays from the Roman period, colourful altarpieces from Medieval times, as well as lush portraits and landscape paintings from the 19th century.
Catedral de Santa María de la Redonda CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle de Portales; h8.30am-1pm & 6-8.45pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2pm & 6-8.45pm Sun)
The Catedral de Santa María de la Redonda sits on the site of a 12th-century oratory, and was built in varying styles between the 15th and 18th centuries. The eye-catching towers (known as the gemelas or twins) and splendid altarpiece are fine examples of the Rioja baroque manner. Don’t miss the small exquisite painting depicting Christ on the Cross attributed to Michelangelo. It’s behind the main altar and can be illuminated by placing a coin in the box.
Iglesia de San Bartolomé CHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle de Rodríguez Paterna; h11.30am-1.15pm)
The impressive main entrance of Logroño’s oldest church (built between the 12th and 13th centuries) has a splendid portico of deeply receding borders and an expressive collection of statuary.
2Activities
Rioja Trek WINE
(%941 58 73 54; www.riojatrek.com; Calle Francisco de Quevedo 12)
Based 3km east of the centre, Rioja Trek offers a wide range of winery tours, wine tastings and hikes along some of La Rioja’s fabulous mountain trails. One of the highlights is a three-hour excursion (per person €28) where you play wine grower for a day, visiting a traditional vineyard and bodega and even doing some wine-making yourself.
The same people also run tapas tours around Logroño, two-hour wine-tasting courses and activities for families with children.
zFestivals & Events
Fiesta de San Mateo CULTURAL
(hSep)
Logroño’s week-long Fiesta de San Mateo starts on the Saturday before 21 September and doubles as a harvest festival, during which all of La Rioja comes to town to watch the grape-crushing ceremonies in the Espolón and to drink ample quantities of wine.
Actual CULTURAL
(www.actualfestival.com; hJan)
A program of cultural, musical and artistic events held in the first week of January.
Feast of San Bernabé FEAST DAY
(h11 Jun)
The Feast of San Bernabé commemorates the French siege of Logroño in 1521 with food and wine tasting, traditional concerts, fireworks and a re-enactment of the medieval battle.
4Sleeping
Hostal La Numantina PENSION€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %941 25 14 11; www.hostalnumantina.com; Calle de Sagasta 4; s/d/tr from €35/56/70; W)
This budget-minded outfit has comfortable and homey rooms, some with large bathtubs and tiny balconies with views over the street below. Unfortunately, street noise is an issue, so light sleepers are better off with an interior room. There’s a communal space downstairs with cosy sofas and good maps of the Logroño and the surrounding area.
Hotel Calle Mayor BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %941 23 23 68; www.hotelcallemayor.com; Calle Marqués de San Nicolás 71; d from €110; paiW)
Set in a restored 16th-century building, this classy hotel is the place to stay in Logroño. It has large, comfortable rooms bathed in light, with attractive flooring, modular furniture and modern bathrooms.
Hotel Marqués de Vallejo DESIGN HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %941 24 83 33; www.hotelmarquesdevallejo.com; Calle del Marqués de Vallejo 8; d from €126; paW)
With a lobby full of driftwood sculptures, beach pebbles and bold artwork on the walls, the Marqués de Vallejo aims to set itself apart from the Logroño’s more traditional options. The rooms themselves are quite comfortable, though lacking the artful touches of the lobby.
5Eating
Tastavin PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle San Juan 25; pintxos from €2.50; h8-11pm Tue, 1-4pm & 8-11pm Wed-Sun)
A stylish, modern eatery on pintxos-lined San Juan, Tastavin whips up some of the tastiest morsels in town, including smoked trout, fried artichokes, tuna tataki and braised ox tail. The wines are outstanding.
Umm PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.ummfoodanddrink.com; Calle San Juan 1; pintxos from €2.50; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sun)
It’s hard not to be pulled inside to this sleek contemporary space on a bustling culinary corner. One look at the spread of heavenly, rather elaborate bites and you won’t be able to resist. Grilled foie, pastrami with kimchi, codfish with cream sauce and seaweed, and pulled pork are among the many hits.
Camino Vegano VEGETARIAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %941 48 37 33; Plaza del Mercado 25; mains €9-12, lunch menu €12.50; h1-3.30pm Sun-Tue, 1-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm Wed-Sat)
Take a break from animal products at this handsome vegan eatery on the main plaza. Friendly English-speaking staff serve up delicious comfort fare like mushroom and vegan béchamel croquettes, veggie lasagna, fajitas with stir-fried vegetables and barbecue seitan ribs with coleslaw.
Bar Torrecilla PINTXOS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Laurel 15; pintxos from €2; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Wed-Sun)
The best pintxos in town? You be the judge. Go for the melt-in-your-mouth foie gras or the mini-burgers, or anything else that strikes your fancy, at this modern bar on buzzing Calle del Laurel.
Bar Soriano TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Travesía de Laurel 2; pintxos from €2; h11.45am-3pm & 7-11.45pm Thu-Tue)
This bar has been serving up the same delicious mushroom tapa, topped with a shrimp, for more than 40 years.
La Cocina de Ramón SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %941 28 98 08; www.lacocinaderamon.es; Calle de Portales 30; menús €28-55, mains €16-25; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun)
It looks unassuming from the outside, but Ramón’s mixture of high-quality, locally grown market-fresh produce and tried-and-tested family recipes has earned him a lot of fans. The fine cooking is matched by the top service, and Ramón likes to come and explain the dishes to each and every guest.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Odeón Mercado Craft Beer BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaza del Mercado 27; h6.30pm-3.30am Wed-Fri, from 4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Brew lovers from far and wide descend on this laid-back bar on the plaza. You’ll find some 20 different craft beers on tap, with a fine selection of quaffs from the Basque Country, Catalonia and beyond. There’s live music from time to time.
7Shopping
La Luci Delicatessen FOOD & DRINKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %941 44 18 54; Calle Portales 3; h10.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm Tue-Sun)
Browse for gourmet gift ideas at this charming little store that’s stocked with wines, cheeses, olive oils, craft beers, vermouth and handsomely boxed biscuits in carousel tins.
Félix Barbero Botas Rioja ARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://botasrioja.artesaniadelarioja.org; Calle de Sagasta 8; h9am-1.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat)
Maintaining a dying craft, Félix Barbero handmakes the classic Spanish animal skin wine carriers in which farmers carried their daily rations of wine while working in the fields. The price for a quality one-litre wine carrier starts around €20.
8Information
Near the west end of the historic centre, the tourist office (%941 29 12 60; www.lariojaturismo.com; Calle de Portales 50; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Jul-Sep, 9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-7pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Jun) can provide lots of information on both the city and La Rioja in general.
8Getting There & Away
If you arrive at the train or bus station (%941 23 59 83; Avenida de España 1), first head up Avenida de España and then Calle del General Vara de Rey until you reach the Espolón, a large, park-like square lavished with plane trees (and with an underground car park). The Casco Viejo starts just to the north.
Buses go to the following:
| Destination | Fare (€) | Duration |
|---|---|---|
| Bilbao | 15 | 2hr |
| Haro | 6.05 | 40 minutes |
| Pamplona | 10 | 2hr |
| Santo Domingo de la Calzada | 3.50 | 45 minutes |
| Vitoria | 10 | 2¼hr |
By train, Logroño is regularly connected to the following:
| Destination | Fare (€) | Duration |
|---|---|---|
| Bilbao | from 16 | 2½hr |
| Burgos | from 14 | 2hr |
| Madrid | from 31 | 3½hr |
| Zaragoza | from 15 | 2hr |
San Millán de Cogolla
POP 290 / ELEV 733M
About 16km southwest of Nájera, the hamlet of San Millán de Cogolla, home to only a few hundred people, is set in a lush valley. Like Nájera, San Millán de Cogolla has a long and fascinating Jewish history that dates back to the 10th century AD. But most people come here to see two remarkable monasteries that helped give birth to the Castilian language. On account of their linguistic heritage and artistic beauty, they have been recognised by Unesco as World Heritage sites.
1Sights
Monasterio de Yuso MONASTERY
(%941 37 30 49; www.monasteriodesanmillan.com; San Millán de la Cogolla; adult/child €7/3; h10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar)
The Monasterio de Yuso, sometimes called El Escorial de La Rioja, contains numerous treasures in its museum. You can only visit as part of a guided tour (in Spanish only; non-Spanish speakers will be given an information sheet in English and French). Tours last 50 minutes and run every half-hour or so. In August it’s also open on Mondays.
Monasterio de Suso MONASTERY
(%941 37 30 82; www.monasteriodesanmillan.com/suso; San Millán de la Cogolla; €4; h9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar)
Built above the caves where San Millán once lived, the Monasterio de Suso was consecrated in the 10th century. It’s believed that in the 13th century a monk named Gonzalo de Berceo wrote the first Castilian words here. It can only be visited on a guided tour. Tickets must be bought in advance and include a short bus ride up to the monastery.
8Getting There & Away
Most travellers drive here. The village is located about an hour’s drive west of La Rioja via A12.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada
POP 6370 / ELEV 640M
Santo Domingo is small-town Spain at its very best. A large number of the inhabitants continue to live in the partially walled old quarter, a labyrinth of medieval streets where the past is alive and the sense of community is strong. It’s the kind of place where you can be certain that the baker knows all his customers by name and that everyone will turn up for María’s christening. Santiago-bound pilgrims have long been a part of the fabric of this town, and that tradition continues to this day, with most visitors being foot-weary pilgrims. All this helps to make Santo Domingo one of the most enjoyable places in La Rioja.
1Sights
Catedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada CATHEDRAL
(%941 34 00 33; www.catedralsantodomingo.es; Plaza del Santo 4; adult/student/child €5/3/free; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 9am-noon & 2-8pm Sun Apr-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar)
The monumental cathedral and its attached museum glitter with the gold that attests to the great wealth the Camino has bestowed on otherwise backwater towns. An audio guide to the cathedral and its treasures is €1. Guided tours, including a nighttime tour, are also available.
The cathedral’s most eccentric feature is the white rooster and hen that forage in a glass-fronted cage opposite the entrance to the crypt (look up!). Their presence celebrates a long-standing legend, the Miracle of the Rooster, which tells of a young man who was unfairly executed only to recover miraculously, while the broiled cock and hen on the plate of his judge suddenly leapt up and chickened off, fully fledged.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal Rey Pedro I HOTEL€
(%941 34 11 60; www.hostalpedroprimero.es; Calle San Roque 9; s/d from €45/56; W)
This carefully renovated town house, which has terracotta-coloured rooms with wooden roof beams and entirely modern bathrooms, is a terrific deal.
Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%941 34 03 00; www.parador.es; Plaza del Santo 3; r from €135; pW)
The Parador Santo Domingo is the antithesis of the town’s general air of piety. Occupying a 12th-century former hospital opposite the cathedral, this palatial hotel offers anything but a frugal medieval-like existence. The in-house restaurant is reliably good.
Parador Santo Domingo Bernado de Fresneda HOTEL€€
(%941 34 11 50; www.parador.es; Plaza de San Francisco 1, Ave Juan Carlos I; d from €90; pW)
Just on the edge of the old town, the Parador Santo Domingo Bernado de Fresneda occupies a former convent and pilgrim hostel. With its divine beds and opulent rooms, it’s now a pretty luxurious place to stay.
Los Caballeros SPANISH€€
(%941 342 789; http://restauranteloscaballeros.com; Calle Mayor 58; mains €18-23; h1-4pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)
In a classy dining room set with exposed brick, wood-beamed ceiling and stained glass details, Los Caballeros serves up flavourful suckling pig, smoked sardines and codfish dishes, among other classic Navarran fare. Reserve ahead.
8Getting There & Away
Frequent buses run to Nájera (€2.60, thirty minutes) and onward to Logroño. The bus stop, where you’ll find posted bus schedules, is located on Plaza San Jerónimo Hermosilla, just off Avenida Juan Carlos I (also known as Calle San Roque), and across the street from the historic centre.
La Rioja Wine Region
La Rioja wine rolls on and off the tongue with ease, by name as well as by taste. All wine fanciers know the famous wines of La Rioja, where the vine has been cultivated since Roman times. The region is classic vine country and vineyards cover the hinterland of Río Ebro. On the river’s north bank, the region is part of the Basque Country and is known as La Rioja Alavesa.
Haro
POP 11,300 / ELEV 426M
Despite its fame in the wine world, there’s not much of a heady bouquet to Haro, the capital of La Rioja’s wine-producing region. But the town has a cheerful pace and its compact old quarter, leading off Plaza de la Paz, has some intriguing alleyways with bars and wine shops aplenty.
There are plenty of wine bodegas in the vicinity of the town, some of which are open to visitors (almost always with advance reservation). The tourist office keeps a full list.
2Activities
Bodegas Muga WINE
(%941 30 60 60; www.bodegasmuga.com; Barrio de la Estación; winery tour from €15; hMon-Sat by reservation)
Just after the railway bridge on the way out of town, this bodega is particularly receptive and gives daily guided tours (except Sunday) and tastings in Spanish. Book ahead to join a tour.
zFestivals & Events
Batalla del Vino WINE
(Wine Battle; www.batalladelvino.com; h29 Jun)
The otherwise mild-mannered citizens of Haro go temporarily berserk during the Batalla del Vino, squirting and chucking wine all over each other in the name of San Juan, San Felices and San Pedro. Plenty of it goes down the right way, too.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Arrope HOTEL€€
(%941 30 40 25; www.hotelarrope.com; Calle Virgen de la Vega 31; s/d from €70/80; aW)
This town-centre hotel has a young-and-cool attitude, which is quite unexpected in conservative Haro. The attractive rooms feature bold colours, shiny parquet floors and (in some) pretty balconies overlooking the courtyard.
The attached bar-cafe, with a large terrace, is a very pleasant place for a glass of wine and some small plates.
Hotel Los Agustinos HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%941 31 13 08; www.hotellosagustinos.com; San Agustín 2; s/d from €99/131; paW)
History hangs in the air of this stately hotel, set in a 14th-century convent. Rooms could use an update, but the stunning covered courtyard is a wonderful place to linger over a glass of wine. The hotel’s restaurant (mains €16 to €22) is also highly excellent.
El Rincón del Noble SPANISH€€
(%941 31 29 32; www.elrincondelnoble.net; Martinez Lacuesta 11; mains €16-20; h1-4pm daily & 9-11pm Fri & Sat)
Although Haro isn’t much of a foodie town, this easygoing dining room earns high marks for its simple but thoughtfully prepared classic fare. Tender oxtail in Rioja wine sauce, steaming oven-baked bass, and sizzling duck breast with caramelised apples are a few standout dishes.
EXPERIENCE THE WEALTH OF THE GRAPE
The humble grape has created great wealth for some of the villages around La Rioja. Proof of this are some of the extravagant bodegas and hotels that have sprung up in recent years in what otherwise appear to be backwater farming communities.
Before hitting the wine road, it’s helpful to learn a few basics: wine categories in La Rioja are termed Young, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Young wines are in their first or second year and are inevitably a touch ‘fresh’. Crianzas must have matured into their third year and have spent at least one year in the cask, followed by a few months resting in the bottle. Reservas pay homage to the best vintages and must mature for at least three full years in cask and bottle, with at least one year in the cask. Gran Reservas depend on the very best vintages and are matured for at least two years in the cask followed by three years in the bottle. These are the ‘velvet’ wines.
When the owner of the Bodegas Marqués de Riscal, in the village of Elciego, decided he wanted to create something special, he didn’t hold back. The result is the spectacular Frank Gehry–designed Hotel Marqués de Riscal (%945 18 08 80; www.hotel-marquesderiscal.com; Calle Torrea 1, Elciego; r from €344; paW). Costing around €85 million, the building is a flamboyant wave of multicoloured titanium sheets that stands in utter contrast to the village behind. Although casual visitors are not welcome at the hotel, you can join one of the bodega’s wine tours (Vinos de los Herederos del Marqués de Riscal; %945 18 08 88; www.marquesderiscal.com; Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Calle Torrea 1, Elciego; tours €12; htours 10.30am-1pm & 4-6pm) – there’s at least one English language tour a day, but it’s best to book in advance. You won’t get inside the building, but you will get to see its exterior from some distance. A much closer look can be obtained by reserving a table at one of the two superb in-house restaurants: the Michelin-approved Restaurante Marqués de Riscal (%945 18 08 80; www.restaurantemarquesderiscal.com; Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Calle Torrea 1, Elciego; 14-/21-course menu €110/140) or the 1860 Tradición (%945 18 08 80; www.hotel-marquesderiscal.com/restaurante-1860-tradicion; Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Calle Torrea 1, Elciego; mains €22-34; h1.30-3.30pm & 8-10.15pm). For the most intimate look at the building, you’ll need to reserve a room for the night, but be prepared to part with some serious cash!
Just a couple of kilometres to the north of Laguardia is the Bodegas Ysios (%902 239 773; www.ysios.com; Camino de la Hoya; tours €12; htours 11am, 1pm & 4pm Mon-Fri, 11am & 1pm Sat & Sun). Designed by Santiago Calatrava as a ‘temple dedicated to wine’, its wave-like roof, made of aluminium and cedar wood, matches the flow of the rocky mountains behind it. It looks its best at night when pools of light flow out of it. Daily tours of the bodega are an excellent introduction to wine production. Reserve ahead.
There are several other, somewhat less confronting, wine cellars around Laguardia that can be visited, often with advance notice only – contact the tourist office in Laguardia for details. Bodegas Palacio (%945 60 01 51; www.bodegaspalacio.com; Carretera de Elciego; tours €5; htours 1pm, other times by appointment) is only 1km from Laguardia on the Elciego road; reservations are again a good idea. The same bodega also runs excellent wine courses. There’s also a hotel attached to the complex, but compared to options in Laguardia, it lacks character.
Also just outside Laguardia is the Centro Temático del Vino Villa Lucía (%945 60 00 32; www.villa-lucia.com; Carretera de Logroño; tours €12; h9am-2pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun), a wine museum and shop selling high-quality wine from a variety of small, local producers. Museum visits are by guided tour only and finish with a 4D film and wine tasting.
8Information
Just off the main plaza, the tourist office (%941 30 35 80; www.haroturismo.org; Plaza de la Paz 1; h10am-2pm Mon, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–Sep, 10am-2pm Sun & Tue-Thu, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Fri & Sat Oct–mid-Jun) provides useful info on the area’s many wineries.
8Getting There & Away
Regular trains connect Haro with Logroño (from €6, 40 minutes).
Buses additionally serve Logroño, Nájera, Vitoria, Bilbao, Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Laguardia. The bus station (Calle Castilla), which has a small indoor space with a cafe, is located around five blocks south of the historic centre. Walk along Avenida de la Rioja to get there.
Briones
POP 810 / ELEV 501M
One man’s dream has put the small, obscenely quaint village of Briones firmly on the Spanish wine and tourism map. The sunset-gold village crawls gently up a hillside and offers commanding views over the surrounding vine-carpeted plains. Here you’ll find the fantastic Vivanco. Over several floors and numerous rooms, you will learn all about the history and culture of wine and the various processes that go into its production. View the world’s largest collection of corkscrews, then sample a few varietals at the winery.
1Sights
Vivanco MUSEUM
(Museo de la Cultura del Vino; %941 32 23 23; www.vivancoculturadevino.es; Carretera Nacional, Km 232; guided visit with wine tasting €18-25; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 10am-8pm Sat)
A must for wine lovers. Tour the winery before or after a visit to the excellent Museo de la Cultura del Vino (Museum of the Culture of Wine), where you’ll learn all about the history and culture of wine and the various processes that go into its production. All of this is done through interesting displays brought to life with the latest in technology. The treasures on display include Picasso-designed wine jugs, Roman and Byzantine mosaics, and wine-inspired religious artifacts.
4Sleeping
Los Calaos de Briones HOTEL€
(%941 32 21 31; www.loscalaosdebriones.com; San Juan 13; d from €65)
Rest your wine-heavy head at this lovely hotel. Some rooms have suitably romantic four-poster beds. The attached restaurant, in an old wine cellar, is stuffed with excellent locally inspired cuisine (mains €11 to €16).
8Getting There & Away
Briones is located between Haro and Logroño. Autobuses Jiménez runs frequent buses from Logroño to Briones (€3.95, 50 minutes), continuing onward to Haro. In Briones, the bus stops on the edge of town, just off the highway.
Laguardia
POP 1480 / ELEV 557M
It’s easy to spin back the wheels of time in the medieval fortress town of Laguardia, or the ‘Guard of Navarra’ as it was once appropriately known, sitting proudly on its rocky hilltop. The walled old quarter, which makes up most of the town, is virtually traffic-free and is a sheer joy to wander around. As well as offering memories of long-lost yesterdays, the town further entices visitors with its wine-producing present and striking scenery.
1Sights
Bodega El Fabulista WINERY
(%945 62 11 92; Plaza San Juan; tours €7; h11.30am-1pm & 5.30-7pm)
You can tour the medieval cellars of this traditional winery, which is located right in Laguardia. The tour finishes with a tasting of two of the bodega’s wines. Reserve ahead for a one-hour English-language tour.
Bodegas Casa Primicia WINERY
(%945 621 266; www.bodegascasaprimicia.com/en/visits-and-lunches; tours €9; htours 11am, 1pm & 5.30pm Tue-Sun)
About 600m north of the historic centre, you’ll find the oldest winery in Laguardia. On a 75-minute tour through this atmospheric 16th-century building, knowledgeable guides will give you an overview of the winemaking process and the rich heritage of Rioja wines, with a tasting at the end. It’s essential to reserve ahead.
Torre Abacial TOWER
(Calle Mayor 52; €2; h10.30am-2.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm)
For a splendid view over town and the vineyards beyond, climb the 100-plus steps of the ‘Abbot’s Tower’ – so named as it was once part of a monastery. Parts of the structure date back to the 12th century.
Iglesia de Santa María de los Reyes CHURCH
(%945 60 08 45; Travesía Mayor 1; tours €3; hguided tours 11.15am, 1.15pm, 5.30pm & 6.30pm Jun-Sep)
The impressive Iglesia de Santa María de los Reyes has a breathtaking late-14th-century Gothic doorway, adorned with beautiful sculptures of the disciples and other motifs. If the church doors are locked, pop down to the tourist office where you can get a key. Otherwise, guided tours (in Spanish) run throughout the day in summer.
4Sleeping
Posada Mayor de Migueloa HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%945 600 187; www.mayordemigueloa.com; Calle Mayor 20; s/d incl breakfast €112/124; aW)
Set in a converted 17th-century building, this mansion-hotel has seven atmospheric rooms that evoke a bygone age with old stone walls, low beamed ceilings and touches of polished antique furnishings to complete the look. Be sure to pay a visit to the hotel’s wine cellar. The on-site restaurant is also top notch (mains from €21).
Castillo el Collado HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(%945 62 12 00; www.hotelcollado.com; Paseo el Collado 1; d/ste €138/193; aW)
Like a fairy-tale castle with its crenellated tower, coat of arms and pretty flower gardens, the Castillo el Collado is an utterly charming place to stay. The 10 rooms all have unique flourishes, from elaborately moulded ceilings to richly painted walls and antique bed frames.
Also onsite and open to the public is a great restaurant and a relaxing terrace cafe overlooking the old walls of Laguardia.
Hospedería de los Parajes HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(%945 62 11 30; www.hospederiadelosparajes.com; Calle Mayor 46-48; r from €150; aiW)
Extraordinarily plush rooms that combine a bit of today with a dollop of yesteryear. The 18 rooms have polished wood floors, touches of artwork and original ceilings. The beds are quite comfortable, the showers have rustic stone floors and the service is professional.
Hotel Viura DESIGN HOTEL€€€
(%945 60 90 00; www.hotelviura.com; Calle Mayor, Villabuena de Álava; d from €209; paW)
A modern architectural landmark in wine country, the Hotel Viura appears to be, on first glance, a collection of metallic, multicoloured boxes piled haphazardly on the hillside. On closer investigation, its a sleek designer hotel that stands in whimsical contrast to the traditional village of Villabuena de Álava. Service and amenities are top-rate; it’s a unique place to stay.
The hotel is located 12km east of Laguardia.
5Eating
oRestaurante Amelibia SPANISH€€
(%945 62 12 07; www.restauranteamelibia.com; Barbacana 14; mains €16-22; h1-3.30pm Wed-Sun & 9-10.30pm Fri & Sat)
This classy restaurant is one of Laguardia’s highlights: gaze out the windows at a view over the scorched plains and distant mountain ridges while dining on sublime traditional cuisine. Think oxtail and wild mushrooms in red wine sauce with seasonal vegetables, or baked sea bass with pumpkin cream and truffle oil.
Castillo el Collado Restaurant SPANISH€€
(www.hotelcollado.com; Paseo El Collado 1; menus from €30)
There’s an old-world feeling to the place, and classic Riojan dishes like roasted suckling pig. There’s also an English-language menu, and, naturally, a great wine selection.
8Information
On the main road in the heart of town, the tourist office (%945 60 08 45; www.laguardia-alava.com; Calle Mayor 52; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm) has a list of local bodegas that can be visited.
8Getting There & Away
Eight or nine daily buses leave Logroño for Vitoria (€8, 1½ hours), stopping in Laguardia (€3, 25 to 30 minutes) on the way. There’s no bus station: buses stop at the covered shelters along the main road that runs through town, near the lookout point.