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DESTINATION	FARE (€)	TIME	FREQUENCY
Castellón	5.20	1½hr	3 Mon-Fri, 2 Sat
Morella	3.40	45min	2 Mon-Fri, 2 Sat
Vinaròs	2.70	1hr	4 Mon-Fri

Alicante Province

Alicante

POP 330,500

Of all Spain’s mainland provincial capitals, Alicante (Valenciano: Alacant) is the most influenced by tourism, thanks to the nearby airport and resorts. Nevertheless it is a dynamic, attractive Spanish city with a castle, old quarter and long waterfront. The eating scene is exciting and the nightlife is absolutely legendary, whether you’re chugging pints with the stag parties at 7pm or twirling on the dance floor with the locals seven hours later. On a weekend night it’s impossibly busy and buzzy year-round.

Alicante

1Top Sights

1 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de AlicanteF2

1Sights

2Castillo de Santa BárbaraF1

3Museo de la Ciudad de AlicanteF1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Kon TikiD4

4Sleeping

5Guest HouseA1

6Hotel Hospes AmérigoE3

7La City Hotel MercadoB2

8Les Monges PalaceE2

9Pensión San NicolásE2

5Eating

10Cervecería SentoD3

11El PortalD3

12La Barra de César AncaD4

13OneOneC4

6Drinking & Nightlife

14El CoscorrónD2

15Söda BarC2

1Sights

oMuseo de Arte Contemporáneo de Alicante GALLERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; MACA; www.maca-alicante.es; Plaza Santa María 3; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, from 11am summer, 10am-2pm Sun) F

This splendid museum, inside the 17th-century Casa de la Asegurada, has an excellent collection of 20th-century Spanish art, including works by Dalí, Miró, Chillida, Sempere, Tàpies and Picasso. The pieces on display rotate regularly, as the collection is a sizeable one. The foundation of the collection was a donation by noted abstract artist Eusebio Sempere, an Alicante native who has a section to himself.

oMuseo Arqueológico de Alicante MUSEUM

(MARQ; %965 14 90 00; www.marqalicante.com; Plaza Dr Gómez Ulla; adult/child €3/1.50; h10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8.30pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun, 10am-2pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep)

This museum has a strong collection of ceramics and Iberian art. Exhibits are displayed to give the visitor a very visual, high-tech experience, and it’s all beautifully presented. There are also high-quality temporary exhibitions.

Museo Volvo Ocean Race MUSEUM

(%965 13 80 80; http://museovolvooceanrace.esatur.com; Muelle de Levante; h5-8pm Mon, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Sep-Jun, 6-9pm Mon, 11am-2pm & 6-9pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat Jul & Aug) F

On the pier, this museum brings to life the gruelling conditions of the round-the-world Volvo Ocean Race with a simulator, videos, photos and a display of the gear taken on-board. One of the participating yachts is also here for you to have a look at: fancy jumping aboard for 10 months?

Castillo de Santa Bárbara CASTLE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 92 77 15; www.castillodesantabarbara.com; Calle Vázquez de Mella; h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, to 8pm Oct-Mar) F

There are sweeping views over the city from the ramparts of this large 16th-century castle, which houses a museum (MUSA; %965 15 29 69; h10am-2.30pm & 4-8pm) F recounting the history of the city and contains a couple of chambers with temporary exhibitions. It’s a sweaty walk up the hill to the castle, but there’s a lift (up/down €2.70/free; h10am-7.40pm, last lift up 7.20pm) that rises through the bowels of the mountain to the summit. To return, it’s a pleasant stroll down through Parque de la Ereta.

TTours

Kon Tiki BOATING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %686 994538; www.cruceroskontiki.com; Puerto Deportivo; return €19; hTue, Thu, Sat & Sun Mar-Dec)

Makes the 45-minute boat trip to the popular island of Tabarca, giving you about 4½ hours there. It leaves Alicante at 11pm, departing from the island at 4.30pm. There are additional departures from late June to late September.

zFestivals & Events

oHogueras de San Juan FIESTA

(Fiesta de Sant Joan; www.hogueras.es; h20-24 Jun)

Alicante’s major festival is on the night of 24 June, when midsummer bonfires are lit. In a celebration reminiscent of Valencia’s Las Fallas, satirical effigies (ninots) go up in smoke all over town. This act, known as the cremà, is the culmination of several days of parades and partying, which begins when the effigies appear overnight on 20 June.

4Sleeping

Guest House HOSTAL€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %650 718353; www.guesthousealicante.com; Calle Segura 20; s/d/apt €40/60/90; paW)

Here’s a magnificent budget choice. Each of the eight large, tastefully decorated rooms differs: some have exposed stone walls and others are painted in pale green, daffodil yellow or deep-sea blue. All come with a safe, full-sized fridge and free beverage-making facilities. There are also a couple of well-equipped apartments. Ring ahead as it’s not always staffed.

Pensión San Nicolás PENSION€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 21 70 39; www.alicantesanicolas.com; Calle San Nicolás 14; s/d with private bathroom €30/45, d with shared bathroom €40; aW)

This small, well-located, family-run guesthouse is beautifully kept, with spotless rooms decorated cheerfully with bright colours and wall-mounted photos. All rooms come with tea- and coffee-making facilities, and some have tiny bathrooms. One room has its own kitchen. It’s on one of the quieter central streets, but there’s still plenty of weekend noise. It’s great as a partying base.

Les Monges Palace BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 21 50 46; www.lesmonges.es; Calle San Agustín 4; s €61-80, d €75-90; paiW)

This agreeably quirky place in the nightlife zone is a treasure with winding corridors, tiles, mosaics and antique furniture. Each room is individually decorated – some are considerably more spacious than others – with plenty of character; some are in a more modern wing. The rooftop terrace bar is great and reception couldn’t be more welcoming.

La City Hotel Mercado HOTEL€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 98 01 53; www.lacityhotelmercado.com; Avenida Alfonso X El Sabio 26; s/d €65/95; aiW)

With bright, minimalist lines and an airy feel, this friendly small hotel is well placed on the main boulevard. Rooms are a decent size with fridge and desk, and bathrooms come with powerful showers. Breakfast is available on-site and prices are fair. Basically it’s a three-star that ticks all the boxes except parking, but there are stations nearby.

Hotel Hospes Amérigo HOTEL€€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 14 65 70; www.hospes.es; Calle de Rafael Altamira 7; r €229-298; paiWs)

Within an old Dominican convent, this commodious five-star choice harmoniously blends traditional and ultramodern. Enjoy the views from the small rooftop pool, or build up a sweat in the fitness area…if you can tear yourself away from the comfort of your smartly designed room. There are very few parking spaces, so make sure you pre-book one.

5Eating

Where’s the tapas zone? Virtually the whole centre: wherever it seems all the action is, you can be sure there’s even more going on in another node a couple of streets further on. Great scenes.

Unusually for Spain, lots of restaurants and tapas bars have all-day opening. A number of gourmet ice-cream parlours cool things down around town.

oCervecería Sento TAPAS€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.somossento.com; Calle Teniente Coronel Chápuli 1; tapas €2-10; h8am-midnight)

Top-notch montaditos (little rolls) and inventive grilled tapas (try the turrón and pork ‘Chupachups’) are the reason to squeeze into this brilliant little bar. Watching the cheeky, nonstop staff in action is quite an experience too: they make every visit intriguing. It has a bigger branch nearby, but this one has the atmosphere.

OneOne BISTRO€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 20 63 99; Calle Valdés 9; mains €12-20; hnoon-5pm & 9pm-midnight Tue-Sat, closed mid-Aug–mid-Sep)

It’s easier if you speak a little Spanish at this wonderfully eccentric place with its faithful following of regulars, but your ebullient host will make sure you get the best anyway. It’s a true bistro, with the walls scarcely visible for Parisian-style photos and posters, and there’s no menu. Just listen carefully as Bartolomé intones. Characterful and memorable.

La Barra de César Anca SPANISH€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 20 15 80; www.grupocesaranca.com; Calle Ojeda 1; dishes €3-20; h8am-4pm Mon, 8am-4pm & 8-11.30pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Sat, noon-4pm Sun; W)

Upmarket and buzzy, this is a fun place to sit at the bar and try some high-class gastro creations using plenty of excellent fish and showcasing fine presentation. There’s always something new on the go. There’s sit-down restaurant seating too, but the bar is more fun. It’s also a popular spot for a mid-morning coffee and bite.

oEl Portal SPANISH€€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 14 32 69; www.elportaltaberna.com; Calle Bilbao 2; mains €18-30; h1pm-1.30am; Wv)

Excellent in every way, this plush corner spot sports deliberately OTT decor that changes biannually but is always interesting. Grab a table or squeeze up at the bar to enjoy some of this part of Spain’s finest produce. Plump Dénia prawns, excellent tuna, fresh fish, mouthwatering ham; it’s a feast for the palate. Excellent wines are available by the glass.

It’s not cheap but the quality is sky-high. The atmosphere is smart but relaxed with a DJ responding to the mood as plates of seafood make way for gin and tonics in the mid-afternoon and later at night.

Piripi VALENCIAN€€€

(%965 22 79 40; www.noumanolin.com; Avenida Oscar Esplá 30; mains €12-30; h1-4.15pm & 8.15pm-12.15am; W)

This quality restaurant is strong on rice, seafood and fish, which arrives fresh daily from the wholesale markets of Dénia and Santa Pola. There’s a huge variety of tapas and a valenciano speciality that changes daily. It’s a short walk west of the centre or downhill from the train station.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Alicante’s nightlife is an impressive thing to behold. Wet your night-time whistle in the wall-to-wall weekend bars of the old quarter (known as El Barrio) around Catedral de San Nicolás. Alternatively, head for the sea. Paseo del Puerto, tranquil by day, is a double-decker line of casino, restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Calle Castaños is worth a wander for a quieter, all-week scene.

oEl Coscorrón BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %965 21 27 27; Calle Tarifa 5; h9pm-3.30am)

Mind your head – actually, it’s more like bend double – as you enter this intriguing cellar bar, presciently named ‘bump on the head’. Once inside enjoy the cosy atmosphere with mellow soundtrack, friendly regulars and walls plastered with graffiti and notes. The mojitos (€4) are served out of a mint-filled teapot on the bar and are great.

Söda Bar BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %639 918836; www.facebook.com/sodabar; Calle de Médico Pascual Pérez 8; h7pm-2am Fri, 5pm-2.30am Sat; W)

For quality drinks and well-curated sounds in a welcoming, relaxed but stylish atmosphere, head out of the mayhem of the Barrio to this place, with a friendly local crowd and hipster tendencies. Regular events include DJs, literary readings and dance classes.

8Information

Main Tourist Office (%965 20 00 00; www.alicanteturismo.com; Rambla de Méndez Núñez 41; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) There are also branches near the town hall (%965 14 92 19; Plaza del Ayuntamiento 1; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Sep-May, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm daily Jun-Aug) and at the train station (%965 12 56 33; Avenida de Salamanca; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Sep-May, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm daily Jun-Aug), beach and airport.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Alicante’s airport (%902 404704; www.aena.es; L’Altet), gateway to the Costa Blanca, is around 12km southwest of the city centre. It’s served by budget airlines, charters and scheduled flights from all over Europe.

BUS

From the bus station (Avenida de Salamanca), destinations include Murcia (€6 to €7.50, one to two hours, 11 to 17 daily) and Valencia (€21, 2½ to 5¾ hours, 18 to 21 daily).

TRAIN

Mainline destinations from the principal train station include the following. For Murcia, there are also very regular cercanía trains (€5.75, 1¼ hours) via Elche and Orihuela.

DESTINATION	COST (€)	TIME (HR)	FREQUENCY (DAILY)
Barcelona	53	4¾-5¾	8
Madrid	66	from 2¼	11
Murcia	10-18	1¼	5
Valencia	17-30	1½-2	12

TRAM

The coastal tram/light-rail service is a handy option; see the TRAM (www.tramalicante.es) website. Scenic Line 1 heads to Benidorm with a connection to Dénia. Catch it from beside the covered market.

Dénia

POP 41,500

A major passenger port for the fairly nearby Balearic Islands, Dénia (Spanish: Denia) is a cheery place that lives for more than just tourism. The old town snuggles up against a small hill mounted by a tumbledown castle, and the town’s streets buzz with life and top foodie choices. The beaches of La Marina, to its northwest, are good and sandy, while southeastwards the fretted coastline of Les Rotes and beyond offers less-frequented rocky coves. With its excellent selection of hotels and restaurants, and mix of local and tourist life, Dénia is perhaps the Costa Blanca’s most appealing base.

1Sights

Castillo de Dénia CASTLE

(%966 42 06 56; www.denia.net/castillo-de-denia; Calle San Francisco; adult/child €3/1; h10am-6pm or later, to 12.30am Jul & Aug)

From Plaza de la Constitución steps lead up to the ruins of Dénia’s castle, from where there’s a great overview of the town and coast. The castle grounds contain the Museo Arqueològic de Dénia, a collection of potsherds illustrating the town’s long history. The closing time changes according to the time of year; check the website for exact times.

4Sleeping

oHotel Chamarel BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%966 43 50 07; www.hotelchamarel.com; Calle Cavallers 13; d/ste incl breakfast €102/120; paW)

This delightful hotel, tastefully furnished in period style, occupies a lovably attractive, 19th-century bourgeois mansion. Rooms surround a tranquil patio and are all different, with space and lots of character. Bathrooms artfully combine modern fittings with venerable floor tiles. The internal salon with marble-topped bar is equally relaxing. The whole place is a capacious gallery for the artist-owner’s paintings.

Hotel Nou Romá BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%966 43 28 43; www.hotelnouroma.com; Calle Nou 28; incl breakfast s €78, d €90-144; paW) S

Perfectly located for excursions to the Calle Loreto eating strip, this hotel is on a quietish backstreet but very central. Staff are really excellent, and the spacious rooms with their bright-tiled bathrooms are a delight. The on-site restaurant is worthwhile and the overall package very impressive. Lots of thoughtful details add that extra something to your stay.

Hostal L’Anfora HOSTAL€€

(%966 43 01 01; www.hostallanfora.com; Esplanada de Cervantes 8; s/d €55/72; aW)

The genial boss here is rightly proud of this top hostal on the waterfront strip. Rooms are compact but new in feel, with colourful bedcovers, faultless bathrooms and not a speck of dust or dirt. Outside of high summer, prices are very fair: it’s a budget gem. Rooms with a sea view cost a few euros more.

oEl Raset HOTEL€€€

(%965 78 65 64; www.hotelelraset.com; Calle Bellavista 1; s/d incl breakfast €130/157; paiW)

This modern designer hotel, set in a handsome four-square old building, overlooks the port with just 20 spotlit rooms, colourful bedspreads and art on the walls. There’s a buzzy vibe and very friendly service. A row of house restaurants alongside gives you eating options on the doorstep. Prices drop off sharply either side of August.

5Eating

Bar Bus SEAFOOD€

(%965 78 11 37; Plaza del Archiduque Carlos 4; dishes €4-10; hnoon-10pm; W)

Bars beside bus stations aren’t normally recommended for their culinary qualities, but this vivacious corner spot breaks the mould. As well as being a spot where people drop a quick coffee before jumping aboard the 12.10, it’s also a place to try simple, quality seafood selected daily from the market. Oysters, cuttlefish and other delights are reliably excellent.

El Baret de Miquel Ruiz TAPAS€€

(%WhatsApp only 673 740595; www.miquelruizcuiner.com; Carrer Historiador Palau 1; tapas €4-16; h1.30-3.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat)

This is a real find for gastronomes. The chef had a Michelin-starred restaurant but chose to reject the pretension of that world in favour of a more normal existence. Delicious, exquisitely presented morsels of traditionally influenced dishes using market produce are taste sensations in the simple, retro-casual vibe of the front room of an old house. Book months ahead.

Els Tomassets TAPAS€€

(%966 43 25 60; www.tascaelstomassets.com; Calle Loreto 35; mains €7-15; h9am-midnight; W)

Informal and vibrant, with an open kitchen, this spot turns out delicious fare. In winter, chargrilled artichokes (alcachofas a la brasa) are a delight, while the acquired, rich taste of sea urchins will tempt those who like their food spiky. Seafood is a forte, but meat dishes are also above average for this coast. Bickering staff could do better.

oQuique Dacosta MODERN SPANISH€€€

(%965 78 41 79; www.quiquedacosta.es; Calle Rascassa 1, El Poblet; degustation menu €210, wine flight €99; h1.30-3pm & 8.30-10.30pm Wed-Sun Feb-Jun & Sep-Nov, daily Jul & Aug)

In sleek, white, minimalist premises near the beach 3km west of Dénia, this coolly handsome place is one of the peninsula’s temples to modern gastronomy. The eponymous chef employs molecular and other contemporary techniques to create a constantly surprising cornucopia of flavours and textures.

Aitana SEAFOOD€€€

(%965 78 60 69; Calle de Sandunga 53; seafood €10-60; h1.30-4pm Tue-Thu, 1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Fri & Sat)

Perhaps the best place in Dénia to try the famous local prawns and other crustaceans, this nondescript backstreet bar gets thronged, so try to book a table or get there early and wait for a spot at the bar. The gruff boss has been doing this for years and knows his seafood inside out. Delicious.

8Information

Tourist Office (%966 42 23 67; www.denia.net; Plaza Oculista Buigues 9; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Sep–mid-Jun, 9.30am-1.30pm & 5-8pm daily mid-Jun–Aug) Near the waterfront and ferry and also close to the tram/light-rail station.

8Getting There & Away

Baleària (%902 160180, from overseas 912 66 02 14; www.balearia.com; Moll de la Pansa) runs ferries year-round to/from Mallorca (passenger €70 to €100, car €100 to €150, five to seven hours, daily) and Ibiza (passenger €70 to €105, car €120 to €160, two to 3½ hours, daily), and from May to September directly to Formentera (passenger €70 to €100, car €80 to €110, 2½ hours, five weekly).

Hourly light-rail services follow the scenic route southwards via Calp and Altea to Benidorm, connecting with the tram for Alicante.

ALSA (www.alsa.es) buses run around a dozen times daily to Valencia (€11.05, 1½ to two hours) and Alicante (€11.40, 1½ to three hours). There are also services to Benidorm and other Costa Blanca towns.

Xàbia

POP 27,200

With a large expat resident population, Xàbia (Spanish: Jávea) is a gentle, family-oriented place that has largely resisted the high-rise tourist developments that blight so much of the Costa Blanca. Pleasant, relaxed and picturesque, it comes in three flavours: the small old town 2km inland; El Puerto (the port), directly east of the old town; and the beach zone of El Arenal, a couple of kilometres south. Picturesque headlands and coves reward further exploration of this section of coast.

2Activities

Montgó HIKING

A popular walk is ascending Montgó, the craggy mountain looming over the town. It’s a climb best started in the morning or late afternoon as it’s fairly exposed to the sun. It’s a stony and arduous but not difficult path to the top. Access the trail from the road between Xàbia and Dénia; it’s about 8km return from the car park.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Triskel BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%966 46 21 91; www.hotel-triskel.com; Calle Sor María Gallart 3; d €110; paW#) S

By the old-town market, this cordially run place is a standout. The five lovely rooms are subtly and beautifully decorated according to themes, with thoughtful details, objets d’art and pleasing handmade wooden furniture. Everything is done with a warm personal touch and the cosy bar downstairs does a cracking G and T. Pets welcome and prices nearly halve in low season.

Hotel Jávea HOTEL€€

(%965 79 54 61; www.hotel-javea.com; Calle Pio X 5; d €75, with sea view €120; aW)

This extra-friendly small hotel is in the heart of the port district, with bars and restaurants on the doorstep. Offbeat decor and smart modern rooms make it a top spot. The sea view costs a fair bit extra, but it’s a lovely perspective over the whole sweep of the bay. The top-floor restaurant makes the most of the vistas, too.

Sotavent SPANISH€

(%660 341226; Calle Cristo del Mar 8; dishes €5-13; hnoon-11pm)

This friendly spot just near the waterfront in the port area gets everything right with sizeable, delicious portions of seafood, rices, liver and more at extremely reasonable prices. There’s a patio space that is the place to sit on another balmy Xàbia evening.

oLa Renda VALENCIAN€€

(%965 79 37 63; www.facebook.com/rendajaveabyjoseluis; Calle Cristo del Mar 12; mains €10-22; h1-4pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)

There’s more than you think to a paella, and this well-priced but classy, welcoming place at the port has numerous different rice dishes, including a delicious meloso (with broth) rice with lobster. For most dishes a minimum of two people is required, but there’s a set menu with a rice option always available.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Taverna Octopus PUB

(Paseo del Tenista David Ferrer; h11am-3am; W)

In business for several decades now, this grungy spot keeps things likeably simple, with ice-cold beer in miniature tankards and a rocking soundtrack. Grab an outdoor table and watch the world walk by along the beachfront promenade. It’s easily the Arenal’s best bar.

8Information

There are tourist offices at El Arenal (%966 46 06 05; www.xabia.org; Avenida del Pla; h9.30am-1.30pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-Jun, 10am-2pm & 5-9.30pm daily mid-Jun–mid-Sep), the old town (%965 79 43 56; Plaza de la Iglesia; h9am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri (5-8pm Jun-Sep), 10am-1.30pm Sat) and the port (%965 79 07 36; Plaza Presidente Adolfo Suárez 11; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri (5-8pm Jun-Sep), 10am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Sat (5-8pm Jun-Sep), 10am-1.30pm Sun).

8Getting There & Away

ALSA (www.alsa.es) run at least six buses daily to Valencia (€12, two to three hours) and Alicante (€10.20, 2¼ to 2¾ hours). There are also services to Dénia, Madrid, Benidorm, Gandia and Calp, as well as direct buses to the Valencia and Alicante airports, the latter run by Beniconnect (%965 85 07 90; www.beniconnect.com).

8Getting Around

You can rent a cycle at Xàbia’s Bike (%966 46 11 50; www.xabiasbike.com; Avenida Lepanto 5; per day/week from €13/56; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat) in the port area. It also does weekend rides and can organise guided bike tours. The tourist office has a booklet of cycling excursions. Buses link the different zones of the town.

Calp

POP 19,600

The striking Gibraltaresque Peñon de Ifach, a giant limestone molar protruding from the sea, rears up from the seaside resort of Calp. Two large bays sprawl either side of the Peñon: Playa Arenal on the western side is backed by the central part of town, while Playa Levante (La Fossa) to the north is a glorious beach backed by tourist apartments.

2Activities

Peñon de Ifach WALKING

From the Peñon’s Aula de Naturaleza (Nature Centre), a fairly strenuous walking trail – allow two hours for the round trip – heads through a tunnel and then climbs towards the 332m-high summit, offering great seascapes from its end point. There’s a limit of 150 people on the mountain at any one time, so in July and August you may have a short wait.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostal Terra de Mar BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%629 665124; www.hostalterrademar.com; Calle Justicia 31; r €79-129; aW#)

At this artistic and highly original hotel, a range of influences combine to exquisite effect. Each floor has its own style (via the stairs you can travel from Japan to Morocco to Africa and Paris). Some rooms have mini-balconies looking over the old-town street. There are numerous details such as intricately folded towels and a personal tea box.

oEl Bodegón SPANISH€€

(%965 83 01 64; Calle Delfín 8; mains €8-16; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat)

Tried and true, this traditional Spanish restaurant hasn’t changed in decades and is all the better for it. Reliably good classic meals such as rabbit, seafood and hearty steaks make this a favourite for locals and visitors alike.

8Information

Beach Tourist Office (%965 83 69 20; www.calpe.es; Avenida Ejércitos Españoles 44; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat Jul & Aug, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Sep-Jun) Near the lagoon.

Old Town Tourist Office (%965 83 85 32; www.calpe.es; Plaza del Mosquit; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

Buses connect Calp with Alicante (€7.25, 1½ hours, six to 10 daily) and Valencia (€13.55, 2¾ to 3¾ hours, six or seven daily). There are also regular services to other nearby coastal destinations, including Benidorm and Altea. The bus station (Avenida de la Generalitat Valenciana) is just off the ring road.

Trams travel daily northwards to Dénia (€2.50, 40 minutes) and south to Benidorm (€2.50, 30 minutes), connecting with trams for Alicante.

WORTH A TRIP

ALTEA

Separated from Benidorm only by the thick wedge of the Sierra Helada, Altea is an altogether quieter place, with a fishing harbour and beaches composed mostly of pebbles. The modern part is a pleasant enough, fairly standard low-rise coastal resort. By contrast, the whitewashed old town, perched on a hilltop overlooking the sea, is a delightfully pretty pueblo.

Altea Old Town is an easy 10-minute stroll back from the beach to this tight-knit hilltop warren of whitewashed houses. It’s visually very beautiful and, though the main street and plaza are very touristy, you can find some quieter corners. Three miradors give different perspectives over the coast.

Benidorm

POP 66,600

Benidorm’s nice side is its old town, set on a hill between the two beaches. From the platform where once a castle stood, the evening light and sunsets can be incredible. Benidorm is packed in summer, with happy throngs of sun-seekers and party animals, including a sizeable LGBT scene. The area is also popular with families for its excellent theme parks.

Benidorm is infamous for mass tourism along its two wide sandy beaches and the high-rise development that backs them. Bingo, karaoke, fish ’n’ chips, all-day fry-ups…it’s all here, while the profusion of expat bars where not a word of Spanish is spoken give it an atmosphere of its own.

2Activities

Terra Mítica AMUSEMENT PARK

(%902 020220; www.terramiticapark.com; adult/4-12 yr €39/28; h10.30am-9pm or midnight Easter & mid-May–mid-Sep, Sat & Sun mid-Sep–Oct; c)

Everything is bigger and brasher in Benidorm, so it should come as no surprise to learn that this is Spain’s biggest theme park. A fun day out, especially if you’re with children, it’s Mediterranean (well, kind of) in theme, with plenty of scary rides, street entertainment and areas devoted to ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Iberia and the islands.

Opening days are complex, so check its website outside high season.

Aqualandia WATER PARK

(%965 86 01 00; www.aqualandia.net; adult/child €38/29; h10am-dusk mid-May–Sep; c)

Aqualandia is Europe’s largest water park and can easily entertain for a full day. It’s quite a bit cheaper if you book online, and there’s discounted combined entry with other attractions in the area.

4Sleeping

Hostal Irati HOSTAL€€

(%965 84 96 07; Calle Condestable Zaragoza 5; r incl breakfast €60-80; aW)

In the old town, this place has comfortable, neat rooms with excellent tiled bathrooms above a friendly bar. It’s an excellent deal. It has one car-parking spot, but you’ll be lucky to get it.

oVilla Venecia BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

(%965 85 54 66; www.hotelvillavenecia.com; Plaza San Jaime 1; s €205-308, d €356-510; paiWs)

Up high opposite the old town’s church and lording it over the seething beach crowds below, this plush five-star hotel has it all. Each room has sweeping sea views and ultramodern bathrooms. As you lounge beside its diminutive rooftop pool after a spa session, you could be nautical miles from Benidorm. Its bar and excellent restaurant are open to all comers.

WORTH A TRIP

GUADALEST

The little village of (El Castell de) Guadalest, reached by a natural tunnel and overlooked by the Castillo de San José (%965 88 53 93; adult/child €4/2; h10am-6pm, 7pm or 8pm), is marvellously picturesque, with stunning views down the valley to the sea and over a turquoise reservoir below. You’ll be far from the first to discover it – coaches, heading up from the Costa Blanca resorts, disgorge millions of visitors yearly. But get here early, or stay around after the last bus has pulled out, and the place will be almost your own.

There are half a dozen or so novelty museums, including the completely bonkers Museo de Saleros y Pimenteros (Avenida de Alicante 2; adult/child €3/1; h11am-6pm, to 8pm in summer), which is a museum of salt and pepper pots – more than 20,000 of them.

Cases Noves (%965 88 53 09; www.casesnoves.es; Calle Achova 1; r with breakfast standard €85-98, superior €105-145; aiW) makes an exceptional place to stay. Run by brilliant Sofia and Toni, this is B&B taken to a whole new level and worth travelling a long way for. The five thoughtfully designed bedrooms come with fresh flowers and numerous excellent details such as a tablet on which to watch Netflix or order your dinner. The gorgeous terrace offers views of the distant sea and the floodlit village.

Llorente (www.llorentebus.es) buses run from Benidorm to Guadalest (€3.75, one hour) on weekday mornings and return early afternoon, with a day trip possible. In July and August they also run on Saturday and Sunday. If you drive you’ll be charged €2 to park.

5Eating

La Cava Aragonesa TAPAS€€

(%966 80 12 06; www.lacavaaragonesa.es; Plaza de la Constitución; mains €10-18; hnoon-midnight, to 1.30am Jun-Sep)

This has grown from origins as a tiny bar to a sprawling, dizzying array of tapas, fat canapés and plates of cold cuts, all arrayed before you at the bar. The sit-down restaurant offers wooden platters of mixed foods and a huge wine list. The zone is replete with tapas options so make a satisfying crawl of it.

8Information

Old Town Tourist Office (%965 85 13 11; www.benidorm.org; Plaza de Canalejas; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) In the old town, at the end of the eastern beach, this is the principal of several Benidorm tourist offices.

8Getting There & Away

From Benidorm’s bus station (served by local bus 41 and 47), ALSA (www.alsa.es) runs to the following destinations:

Alicante (€4 to €6, 45 minutes to one hour, frequent)

Alicante Airport (€9.45, 40 to 50 minutes, hourly)

Valencia (€16.55 to €16.90, 1¾ to 3¾ hours, frequent)

Some services also leave from the more central Avenida Europa 8 stop, a couple of blocks back from the beach.

The tram/light-rail runs to Alicante (€3.75, 1¼ hours, every 30 minutes) and in the other direction to Altea, Calp and Dénia.

Elche

POP 227,700

Thanks to Moorish irrigation, Elche (Valenciano: Elx) is an important fruit producer and also a Unesco World Heritage site twice over: for the Misteri d’Elx, its annual medieval play, and for its marvellous, extensive palm groves, which are Europe’s largest and were originally planted by the Phoenicians. The palms, the mosque-like churches and the historic buildings in desert-coloured stone give the city, 23km southwest of Alicante, a North African feel in parts.

1Sights

Around 200,000 palm trees, each with a lifespan of some 250 years, make the heart of this busy industrial town a veritable oasis. A signed 2.5km walking trail (ask at the tourist office for the leaflet) leads from the Museu del Palmerar (%965 42 22 40; Porta de la Morera 12; adult/child €1/0.50, Sun free; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) through the groves.

oHuerto del Cura GARDENS

(%965 45 19 36; http://jardin.huertodelcura.com; Porta de la Morera 49; adult/child €5/2.50, audio guide €2; h10am-sunset Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm or 6pm Sun)

In the Islamic world, a garden is considered a form of Paradise. Elche’s past and culture couldn’t therefore be any more obvious than in these privately owned gardens, where humanity and nature have joined forces to produce something that truly approaches that ideal. The highlights are the water features and the cactus gardens.

Parque Municipal PARK

(Paseo Estación; h7am-9pm Nov-Mar, to 11pm Apr-Jul, Sep & Oct, to 11.45pm during Aug)

This lovely park on the northern side of central Elche is one of several appealing places to stroll among the rustling palm trees. A small visitor centre within (open 10am to 3pm daily, plus 4pm to 7pm Friday to Sunday) has a multimedia presentation.

Museo Arqueológico y de Historia de Elche MUSEUM

(MAHE; %966 65 82 03; www.elche.es/museos/mahe; Calle Diagonal del Palau 7; adult/child €3/1, Sun free; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)

This museum is a superb introduction to the town’s long and eventful history. Everything is particularly well displayed and labelled, and it occupies both a purpose-built building and the town’s castle. Starting with archaeological finds from the Neolithic, you progress into history of the Muslim occupation and Reconquest. In the castle’s keep, a replica of the famous Dama de Elche statue holds pride of place; locals live in hope that the original will return from Madrid one day.

zFestivals & Events

oMisteri d’Elx THEATRE

(www.misteridelx.com; h14-15 Aug, plus 1 Nov in even years)

A lyric drama dating from the Middle Ages, this is performed annually in the Basílica de Santa María (%965 45 15 40; Plaza de Santa María 2; tower adult/child €2/1; h7am-1pm & 5.30-9pm, tower 11am-7pm Jun-Sep, 10.30am-3pm Oct-May). The mystery’s two acts, La Vespra (the eve of the Virgin Mary’s death) and La Festa (the celebration of her Assumption), are performed in Valenciano by the people of Elche on 14 and 15 August respectively (with public rehearsals on the three previous days).

In even-numbered years, there’s a single-day performance on 1 November, with two rehearsals in the days before.

One distant day, according to legend, a casket was washed up on Elche’s Mediterranean shore. Inside were a statue of the Virgin and the Consueta, the music and libretto of a mystery play describing Our Lady’s death, assumption into heaven and coronation.

The story tells how the Virgin, realising that death is near, asks God to allow her to see the Apostles one last time. They arrive one by one from distant lands and, in their company, she dies at peace. Once received into paradise, she is crowned Queen of Heaven and Earth to swelling music, the ringing of bells, cheers all round and spectacular fireworks.

You can see a multimedia presentation and learn more about the Misteri in the Museu de la Festa (%965 45 34 64; Carrer Major de la Vila 25; adult/child €3/1; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun).

4Sleeping & Eating

oHotel Huerto del Cura BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%966 61 00 11; www.hotelhuertodelcura.com; Porta de la Morera 14; r €90-165; paiWs)

A sublime hotel with stylish white rooms and antique wooden furnishings. The accommodation is in trim bungalows within lush, palm-shaded gardens. It’s a family-friendly place with a playground, large pool and babysitting service. Complete the cosseting at Elche’s oldest luxury hotel by dining in its renowned Els Capellans restaurant. If you aren’t so mobile, request a room close to reception.

oEl Granaino SPANISH€€

(%966 66 40 80; www.mesongranaino.com; Carrer Josep María Buck 40; mains €14-22; h10am-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W)

Across the river from the centre, El Granaino, with its bar lined with people scarfing down a quick, quality lunch, is worth the 10-minute walk. Top seafood, delicious stews and a fine range of tapas showcase a classic, quintessentially Spanish cuisine. Fuller meals can be enjoyed outside or in the adjacent dining room. Excellent service and quality.

Dátil de Oro VALENCIAN€€

(%966 45 34 15; www.datildeoro.com; Paseo de la Estación; set menus €12-31; h9am-11pm; W)

Within the Parque Municipal, the Golden Date is set up for weddings, with its own chapel and room for 800 diners. At other times it’s a lovely spot to dine in a glass pavilion with palmy surrounds. Try local dishes such as arroz con costra (rice dish with a crusty egg topping); there’s also date flan and date ice cream.

8Information

Tourist Office (%966 65 81 96; www.visitelche.com; Plaza Parque 3; h9am-6pm or 7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm or 7pm Sat, also 10am-2pm Sun May-Dec) By the palm grove that is the Parque Municipal.

8Getting There & Away

Elche is on the Alicante–Murcia cercanía train line. About 20 trains rattle through daily, bound for Alicante (€2.70) or Murcia (€3.70) via Orihuela (€2.70). Train and bus stations are beside each other on Avenida de la Libertad (Avenida del Ferrocarril).

From the bus station, destinations include the following:

DESTINATION	COST (€)	TIME	FREQUENCY
Alicante	2.25	35min	every 30min
Murcia	4.51	45min-2hr	12-13 daily
Valencia	13.22	2½-4hr	10-12 daily

Buses also run to Alicante airport. See www.aerobusalicante.es for details.

Villena

POP 34,200

Pleasant Villena, between Alicante and Albacete, is the most attractive of the towns along the corridor of the Val de Vinalopó. Plaza de Santiago is at the heart of its old quarter, which is topped by a castle. The town’s archaeological museum is particularly notable. It feels a long way from the Costa Blanca here, with a more Castilian atmosphere.

1Sights

oMuseo Arqueológico MUSEUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museovillena.com; Plaza de Santiago 1; adult/child €2/1; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun)

Plaza de Santiago is at the heart of Villena’s old quarter, and within the imposing 16th-century Palacio Municipal, seat of the town council, is this archaeological museum. There are some magnificent pieces in the normal collection, even before you get to the stunning late Bronze Age treasure hoards, with a series of bowls, bracelets and brooches made from solid gold. It’s the most impressive sight in town.

Castillo de la Atalaya CASTLE

(www.turismovillena.com; Calle Libertad; adult/child €3/1.50; hguided tours 11am, noon, 1pm, 4pm & 5pm Tue-Sat, 11am, noon & 1pm Sun)

Perched above the old town, this 12th-century castle has been handsomely restored and is splendidly lit at night. Entrance is by guided visit, in Spanish with English asides. Tickets can be bought at the town’s tourist office or at the visitor centre near the castle’s base. A double wall encloses the central patio de armas courtyard, overlooked by a high square keep.

4Sleeping & Eating

La Casa de los Aromas B&B€

(%666 475612; www.hotelcasadelosaromas.com; Calle Arco 1; s/d €30/47; aW)

In the heart of the old centre, this place offers a very genuine welcome and five sweet rooms, all with an individual aroma scheme. It’s got lots of charm, and staff can arrange winery visits and other activities. You get access to a fridge and microwave as well as an appealing common room with a vinyl collection to play. Breakfast is an extra €3 per person. Two of the rooms are great for families.

La Despensa VALENCIAN, SPANISH€€

(%965 80 83 37; www.mesonladespensa.com; Calle Cervantes 27; mains €12-20; h9am-5pm & 8-11pm Mon, 9am-5pm Tue, 9am-midnight Wed-Sat, 1-5pm Sun; W)

Near the station, La Despensa offers handsome traditional decor and excellent cuisine. It does some great rices, including a very tasty one with rabbit and snails, as well as some impressive slabs of meat on the grill. For tapas, try the house special with ham, quail’s egg and sobrasada (Mallorcan pork and paprika spread).

8Information

Tourist Office (%966 15 02 36; www.turismovillena.com; Plaza de Santiago 5; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun) Villena’s tourist office is on the main square opposite the town hall.

Visitor Centre (%965 80 38 93; www.turismovillena.com; Calle de General Prim 2; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Near the castle.

8Getting There & Away

Nine trains run daily between Alicante and Villena (€6 to €10, 35 to 50 minutes), as well as buses; there are also train services to Valencia. Note that the Villena AV station, served by fast trains, is 10km southwest of town.

Orihuela

POP 34,000

Beside the Río Segura and flush with the base of a barren mountain of rock, the historical heart of Orihuela, with superb Gothic, Renaissance and, especially, baroque buildings, well merits a detour. The old town is strung out between the river and a mountain topped by a ruined castle. The main sights are dotted along the district, more or less in a line, and are well signposted throughout.

Orihuela has a vibrant Moros y Cristianos (http://morosycristianosorihuela.es; hmid-Jul) festival, and reprises the atmosphere with an enormous medieval market at the end of January.

1Sights

oCatedral de San Salvador CATHEDRAL

(%965 30 48 28; Calle Doctor Sarget; adult/child €2/1; h10.30am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sat)

Low slung but achieving an understated majesty nonetheless, this cathedral is built of light-coloured stone in the centre of the old town and features three finely carved portals. Unusually, the altar is enclosed at the front by an ornate Renaissance (the other three sides are Gothic) reja (filigree screen); another closes off the choir, while an earlier Gothic one, alive with vegetal motifs, screens a chapel behind the altar. The highlight, though, is the tiny, exquisite two-level Renaissance cloister on the street behind.

Museo Diocesano de Arte Sacro GALLERY

(%966 74 36 27; Calle Mayor de Ramón y Cajal; adult/child €4/2; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat)

This sizeable and sober episcopal palace next to the cathedral now holds a collection of religious art. There are some fine pieces but the undisputed highlight is the masterly Temptation of St Thomas by Velázquez. A sizeable early work, painted around 1632, it depicts the saint as a young man swooning after having resisted the temptations of a prostitute, seen in the background. Angels reward him with a white chastity ribbon.

Convento de Santo Domingo MONASTERY

(%965 30 02 40; http://colegio.cdsantodomingo.com; Calle Adolfo Clavarana; adult/child €2/1; h10am-1.30pm or 2pm & 4-7pm or 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)

A 16th-century monastery and university with two fine Renaissance cloisters and a refectory clad in 18th-century tile work, Santo Domingo was built on a monumental scale and houses a school. The stern but noble lines of the building stretch towards one of the city gates.

5Eating

oBodega La Venganza TAPAS€

(%661 542220; www.facebook.com/bodegalavenganzaorihuela; Calle Togores 3; tapas €4-15; h12.30-4.30pm & 7.30-11pm or later Wed-Sat, 11.30am-5pm Sun)

It’s impossible not to love this tiny, sassy tapas joint, which expands out to tree-shaded tables on a pretty plaza behind the Iglesia de las Santas Justa y Rufina. It makes a point of procuring excellent seafood – crabs, cockles, tuna, mackerel – and cooks it very well. Check the blackboard for daily specials or go for a tapas degustation.

8Information

Tourist Office (%965 30 46 45; www.orihuelaturistica.es; Plaza de la Soledad; h8am-2pm or 3pm Mon, 8am-2pm or 3pm & 4-7pm or 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm or 5-8pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) In the heart of the old town near the back of the cathedral. There’s also an office at the train station.

8Getting There & Away

Orihuela is on cercanía train line C1 between Murcia (€2, 20 minutes) and Alicante (€4.20, one hour, hourly). The train and bus stations are 1km south of the old centre.

DON’T MISS

MOROS Y CRISTIANOS

More than 80 towns and villages in the south of the Valencia region hold their own Fiesta de Moros y Cristianos (festival of Moors and Christians) to celebrate the Reconquista, the region’s liberation from Muslim rule.

The biggest and best known is in the town of Alcoy (h22-24 Apr), when hundreds of locals dress up in elaborate traditional costumes representing different ‘factions’ – Muslim and Christian soldiers, slaves, guild groups, town criers, heralds, bands – and march through the streets in colourful processions with mock battles. Processions converge upon Alcoy’s main square and its huge, temporary wooden fortress. It’s an exhilarating spectacle of sights and sounds.

Each town has its own variation on the format, steeped in traditions that allude to the events of the Reconquista. So, for example, Villena’s festival (www.turismovillena.com; h5-9 Sep) features night-time parades, while La Vila Joiosa’s festival (24 to 31 July), near Benidorm, re-enacts the landing of Muslim ships on the beaches. Some are as early as February, so you’ve a good chance of finding one whenever it is that you visit the region.

Murcia Province

Murcia

POP 441,000

Officially twinned with Miami, Murcia is the antithesis of the city of vice; it’s a sizeable but laid-back provincial capital with a handful of interesting sights and a pleasant, strollable centre. Like Valencia, it is famous for its huerta, a surrounding zone of market gardens dating back to Moorish times, which supply the city’s restaurants with excellent fresh produce and drive a thriving tapas scene. It makes a top spot to visit for a couple of days.

Murcia City

1Top Sights

1 Real Casino de MurciaC2

1Sights

2Catedral de Santa MaríaC3

3Museo ArqueológicoB1

Museo Catedralicio(see 2)

4Sleeping

4Arco de San JuanC3

5Hotel CetinaC3

6Pensión SeguraB4

5Eating

7AlboradaC2

8El Pasaje de ZabalburuA3

9La Pequeña TabernaC3

10Los ZagalesB3

11Pura CepaC3

12SalzilloD3

13VacanalC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

14La Ronería y La GintoneríaC3

15Sala RevolverD2

1Sights

oReal Casino de Murcia HISTORIC BUILDING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.casinodemurcia.com; Calle de la Trapería 18; adult/child €5/3; h10.30am-7pm)

Murcia’s resplendent casino first opened as a gentlemen’s club in 1847. Painstakingly restored to its original glory, the building is a fabulous combination of historical design and opulence, providing an evocative glimpse of bygone aristocratic grandeur. Beyond the decorative facade are a dazzling Moorish-style patio; a classic English-style library with 20,000 books; a magnificent ballroom with glittering chandeliers; and a compelling tocador (ladies’ powder room) with a ceiling fresco of cherubs, angels and an alarming winged woman in flames.

Catedral de Santa María CATHEDRAL

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 35 87 49; Plaza del Cardenal Belluga; h7am-1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 7am-1pm & 6.30-8pm Sun & Mon Sep-Jun, 7am-1pm & 6.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-1pm & 7-9pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug) F

Murcia’s cathedral was built in 1394 on the site of a mosque. The initial Gothic architecture was given a playful baroque facelift in 1748, with a stunning facade facing on to the plaza. The 15th-century Capilla de los Vélez is a highlight; the chapel’s flutes and curls resemble icing. The Museo Catedralicio (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaza de la Cruz 1; adult/child €3/2; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) displays religious artefacts, but is most noteworthy for the excavations on display.

Museo Arqueológico MUSEUM

(%968 23 46 02; www.museosregiondemurcia.es; Avenida Alfonso X El Sabio 7; h10am-2pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun Sep-Jun) F

The Museo Arqueológico has exceptionally well-laid-out and well-documented exhibits spread over two floors, starting with Palaeolithic times and including audiovisual displays. The trendy cafe with pleasant outdoor seating is a popular spot.

zFestivals & Events

Semana Santa RELIGIOUS

(hMar/Apr)

The city’s Easter processions are of the traditional kind and are considered some of Spain’s best, due especially to their excellent sculptural ensembles. Several notable baroque artists worked on them, and they are full of life and heart-on-sleeve emotion.

Bando de la Huerta FIESTA

(hMar/Apr)

Two days after Easter Sunday, the mood changes from sombre to joyful as the city celebrates this annual spring festival with parades, food stalls, folklore and carafe-fulls of fiesta spirit.

4Sleeping

oPensión Segura HOSTAL€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 21 12 81; www.pensionsegura.es; Plaza de Camachos 14; r €38-48; aW)

Just across a bridge from the heart of town, this makes for a fine budget base. Staff go the extra mile to make you feel welcome, and the rooms are decent and shining clean, though bathrooms are generally tiny.

oHotel Cetina HOTEL€€

(MAP; %968 10 08 00; www.hotelcetina.com; Calle Radio Murcia 3; r €55-80; aW)

A total renovation has left this old city-centre hotel unrecognisable. It now offers unbeatable value for its spacious, stylish, commodious rooms, which have eye-catching colour schemes, Smeg bar fridges and smart toiletries. Staff are very helpful; the only issue is that it’s quite a walk to their associated car park (Paseo del Teniente Flomesta).

Arco de San Juan HOTEL€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 21 04 55; www.arcosanjuan.com; Plaza de Ceballos 10; d €60-80; paiW)

In a former 18th-century palace, this hotel hints at its past with a massive 5m-high original door and some hefty repro columns. The rooms are classic and comfortable, with hardwood details and classy fabrics, and the low prices and top location – for both central sights and the best eating zone – are a big plus. Service is professional and welcoming.

5Eating

oEl Pasaje de Zabalburu TAPAS€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %622 622167; www.facebook.com/elpasajedezabalburu; Plaza San Pedro 3; tapas €4-10; hnoon-5pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; W)

It’s difficult to imagine tastier tapas than the inventive, exquisite creations at this bar on the west side of the centre. Grab a pew at the long bar and enjoy fabulous fare presented with flair. Seafood is especially good here, with stellar grilled calamari, and you have to try the house speciality, pelochos – ham croquettes with a spiky noodle coating…yum.

Los Zagales SPANISH€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 21 55 79; www.facebook.com/barloszagales.murcia; Calle Polo de Medina 4; dishes €3-12; h9.30am-4pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

Handy to stop by after a cathedral visit, old-style, traditional Los Zagales dishes up superb, inexpensive tapas, raciones, platos combinados (mixed platters), homemade desserts (and homemade chips). It’s locally popular so you may have to wait for a table. It’s worth it.

oLa Pequeña Taberna SPANISH€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 21 98 40; www.lapequenataberna.com; Plaza San Juan 7; mains €10-21; h1-5pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun)

Look for the cascade of market vegetables outside the door when locating this quality restaurant, which isn’t quite as small as it claims. Excellent service furnishes its tables, divided by boxes of tomatoes, melons and the like, with dishes such as fish carpaccio, huevas de mújol (preserved fish eggs), codillo (pork knuckle), and quality salad and vegetable platters. Delicious, as are the wines.

oVacanal ARGENTINE, GRILL€€

(MAP; %968 71 58 93; www.vacanal.es; Plaza de los Apóstoles 5; mains €11-28; h1-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun)

Smart, spacious and modern, this Argentine restaurant focuses on meat. There are some great mixed-grill specials, but the real highlights are the sizeable steaks, perfectly cooked over coals. They get it all right here, with faultless service, sharp knives, hand-cut chips and numerous other details. There’s enough on the menu for a top meal on most budgets. There’s a big terrace, too.

Pura Cepa TAPAS€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 21 73 97; www.puracepamurcia.com; Plaza Cristo del Rescate 8; dishes €6-15; h1-4.30pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun; W)

Though the menu is full of typical Spanish ingredients, there’s always an innovative kick to the dishes here, which shine out for their quality. Artichokes, octopus and other local, delicious morsels appear in everything from stir-fries to salads to exquisite appetisers. Eat outside on the heated terrace, at high tables in the bar area, or in the smart dining room.

Alborada SPANISH€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 23 23 23; www.alboradarestaurante.com; Calle Andrés Baquero 15; mains €15-22; hnoon-4.30pm & 8-11.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-4.30pm Sun)

Not particularly noteworthy from outside, this high-ceilinged minimalist dining space offers reliably excellent cuisine using carefully selected natural products. Presentation is modern without being avant-garde, and the flavour combinations are all pleasing. During the week you can eat in the bright bar area out front for just €12. Expect regular doses of air freshener.

Salzillo SPANISH€€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 22 01 94; www.restaurantesalzillo.com; Calle de Cánovas del Castillo 28; mains €20-24; h1-5.30pm & 9pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-5.30pm Sun)

Favoured by well-heeled conservative Murcians, this elegant but comfortable spot has a lively bar and truly excellent eating in its split-level restaurant area. Starters run to elaborate creations with local artichokes, and the quality of the meaty mains is sky-high: order a la brasa for the flavoursome barbecue aromas.

DON’T MISS

TAPAS IN MURCIA

Surrounded by a huerta (area of market gardens), Murcia has great fresh produce and is excellent for tapas, with plenty of variety, generous portions and a considerable vegetarian choice for non-carnivorous folk. Many of the city’s restaurants are fronted by tapas bars or serve raciones (large/full-plate tapas servings), which are great for sharing. Overall, murciano tapas are more inventive than the norm and reflect the province’s comprehensive agriculture with their use of fresh seasonal ingredients. A local classic is the marinera, a scoop of Russian salad served on a loop of breadstick and topped by an anchovy. Delicious.

The network of streets on and northeast of Plaza San Juan are particularly fertile ground, and there’s a lively scene around Plaza Santa Catalina and Plaza de las Flores, a short distance west of the old town.

6Drinking & Nightlife

La Ronería y La Gintonería BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %968 90 00 05; www.la-roneria-y-la-gintoneria.com; Calle de Cánovas del Castillo 17; h3pm-3am Tue-Sat, 3pm-2am Sun & Mon)

A quite incredible selection of rums greets you on entering this bar. There are nearly a thousand available, with Caribbean travel videos playing to get you in the mood. Once you’ve tried them all, stagger up the stairs and start on the gin and tonics. Hundreds of gins, dozens of tonics. And you.

Sala Revolver BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %868 12 49 17; www.facebook.com/salarevolver.murcia; Calle Victorio 36; h3.30pm-3.30am; W)

The interior of this bar in the heart of the university-driven nightlife zone is a rock ’n’ roll classic with red-vinyl booth seating, curios and photos on the walls and regular live music. It’s very atmospheric with real rock-bar cred.

8Information

Floridablanca Tourist Kiosk (www.turismodemurcia.es; Jardín Floridablanca; h4.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) In a park across the river from the old town.

Tourist Office (%968 35 87 49; www.murciaturistica.es; Plaza del Cardenal Belluga; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; W) On the cathedral square.

8Getting There & Away

Murcia-San Javier airport (%913 21 10 00; www.aena.es; Carretera del Aeropuerto, Santiago de la Ribera) is situated beside the Mar Menor, closer to Cartagena than Murcia. There are budget connections to the UK and other European nations, and direct Iberia flights from Madrid. A taxi between the airport and Murcia costs €65 (40 minutes). The airport is scheduled to be superseded by the Aeropuerto Internacional de Murcia (Aeropuerto de Corvera; www.aeropuertointernacionalmurcia.com; Avenida de España, Lo Jurado), 27km south of the city off the A30, by 2019.

At least 10 buses run daily from Murcia’s bus station, 1km west of the centre, to both Cartagena (€4.75, 45 minutes to 1¼ hours) and Lorca (€5.75, 1½ hours).

Up to six trains travel daily to/from Madrid (€47, 4¼ hours). Cercanía trains run to Alicante (€5.75, 1¼ hours) and Lorca (€5.75, 50 minutes).

8Getting Around

Several bus lines running a circular route pass the bus station and can take you into the centre. Number 14 will get you there quickest. From the train station, hop aboard bus C5.

Murcia has a tram line, but it’s not of much use for visitors, mainly serving to bring people into town from the extensive northern suburbs.

Cartagena

POP 214,800

Cartagena’s fabulous natural harbour has been used for thousands of years. Stand on the battlements of the castle that overlook this city and you can literally see layer upon layer of history spread below you: the wharf where Phoenician traders docked their ships; the street where Roman legionaries marched; the plaza that once housed a mosque where Islamic Spain prayed to Allah; the hills over which came the armies of the Christian Reconquista; the factories of the industrial age; the Modernista buildings; and the contemporary warships of what is still an important naval base.

As archaeologists continue to reveal a long-buried – and fascinating – Roman and Carthaginian heritage, the city is finally starting to get the recognition it deserves as one of Spain’s most historically fascinating places. Its extensive network of pedestrian streets and lovely waterfront make it eminently strollable.

History

In 223 BC, the Carthaginian general Hasdrubal the Fair marched his invading army into what had been the Iberian settlement of Mastia, refounding it as Qart Hadasht. The town prospered as Carthago Nova during Roman occupation and, under Muslim rule, became the independent emirate of Cartajana, finally reconquered by the Christians in 1242. Though badly bombed in the civil war – it was the principal Republican naval harbour – industry and the population flourished during the 1950s and ’60s.

1Sights

oMuseo Nacional de Arqueología Subacuática MUSEUM

(ARQUA; %968 12 11 66; http://museoarqua.mcu.es; Paseo de Alfonso XII 22; adult/child €3/free, Sat afternoon & Sun free; h10am-8pm or 9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)

This excellent, attractive space delves into the depths of the fascinating world of underwater archaeology. It starts off by explaining the work of those delvers in the deep and then sails on into the maritime history and culture of the Mediterranean. There’s lots of old pots, flashy lights, buttons to press, films to watch and a replica Phoenician trading ship to marvel over.

Museo del Teatro Romano MUSEUM, RUIN

(www.teatroromanocartagena.org; Plaza del Ayuntamiento 9; adult/child €6/5; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Apr, 10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun May-Sep)

This impressive complex was designed by top Spanish architect Rafael Moneo. The tour transports visitors from the initial museum on Plaza del Ayuntamiento, via escalators and an underground passage beneath the ruined cathedral, to the recently restored Roman theatre dating from the 1st century BC. The layout of the museum is minimalist, taking you back through Cartagena’s fascinating layers of urban history with a careful selection of statuary, pottery and other artefacts.

Barrio del Foro Romano RUINS

(www.cartagenapuertodeculturas.com; Calle Honda; adult/child €5/4; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, 10am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, 10am-8pm daily Jul–mid-Sep)

Set alongside the Molinete hill are the evocative remains of a whole town block and street linking the port with the forum, dating from the 1st century BC and including an arcade and thermal baths. One of the houses preserves a courtyard and important fragments of wall paintings.

Casa de la Fortuna RUINS

(Plaza Risueño; adult/child €2.50/2; h10.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun, Sat & Sun only Dec-Mar)

The Casa de la Fortuna consists of the fascinating remains of an aristocratic Roman villa dating back to the 1st century BC, complete with some well-preserved murals and mosaics, and part of an excavated road. Access it down some steps on the plaza.

Museo Refugio de la Guerra Civil MUSEUM

(www.cartagenapuertodeculturas.com; Calle de Gisbert; adult/child €3.50/2.50; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, 10-8pm daily Jul–mid-Sep, 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)

Cartagena, as base of the Republican fleet and with an important arms industry, was the target of heavy bombing during the Spanish Civil War. This atmospheric air-raid shelter dug into the castle hill, one of many that protected the city’s citizens, brings back those days with personal testimonies, posters, good Spanish-English information and a Charlie Chaplin clip.

Castillo de la Concepción CASTLE

(www.cartagenapuertodeculturas.com; adult/child €3.75/2.75; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, 10am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, 10am-8pm daily Jul–mid-Sep)

For a sweeping panoramic view, stride up to Castillo de la Concepción, or hop on the lift (Calle de Gisbert; adult/child €2/1, with Castillo de la Concepción €4.25/3.75). Within the castle’s gardens, decorated by strutting peacocks, the Centro de Interpretación de la Historia de Cartagena offers a potted history of Cartagena through the centuries via audio screens and a 10-minute film (in English and Spanish).

Muralla Púnica RUINS

(www.cartagenapuertodeculturas.com; Calle San Diego 25; adult/child €3.50/2.50; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, 10am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, 10am-8pm daily Jul–mid-Sep)

The Muralla Púnica, built around a section of the old Punic wall, concentrates on the town’s Carthaginian and Roman legacy. It also contains the tumbledown walls of a 16th-century hermitage complete with tombs filled with human bones.

Museo Arqueológico Municipal MUSEUM

(%968 12 89 68; www.museoarqueologicocartagena.es; Calle Ramón y Cajal 45; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun) F

Built above a late-Roman cemetery with a rich display of Carthaginian, Roman, Visigoth and Islamic artefacts. To get here, head northwest of the city centre, via Calle La Palma.

zFestivals & Events

Semana Santa RELIGIOUS

(http://semanasanta.cartagena.es; hMar/Apr)

During Easter week, Cartagena’s haunting, elaborate processions are quite a sight.

Carthagineses y Romanos FIESTA

(Cartagineses y Romanos; www.cartaginesesyromanos.es; hSep)

For 10 days during September, locals play war games in a colourful fiesta that re-enacts the battles between rival Carthaginian and Roman occupiers during the Second Punic War.

4Sleeping

oPensión Balcones Azules HOSTAL€

(%968 50 00 42; www.pensionbalconesazules.com; Calle Balcones Azules 12; s €36-42, d economy/superior €50/60; aW)

On a quiet central street overlooking the ruins of the forum, this modern option offers plenty of quality for the price. The superior rooms have bigger bathrooms, but there are some spacious ‘economy’ ones, too. It’s all very comfortable, and the dedicated staff keep this, which is effectively a small hotel, absolutely spotless. Closes for a month around February.

NH Cartagena HOTEL€€

(%968 12 09 08; www.nh-hotels.com; Calle Real 2; r €85-125; paiW)

The location of this business hotel can’t be bettered, steps from the waterfront and the Roman theatre and just behind the town hall. Rooms are spacious, and superior chambers come with balcony or a sizeable terrace. As usual with this chain, free wi-fi is frustratingly slow and to speed it up costs a fortune. The overpriced breakfast is best avoided.

DISCOUNTED ENTRY

Visiting all the different archaeological sites and museums in Cartagena can work out to be quite expensive. Fortunately help is at hand in the form of a variety of passes that provide cheaper admission (entry to four/five/six museums adult €12/15/18, child €9/12/14). A pass to all of them costs €22. They are valid for 15 days. Passes are available from the tourist office or the sites themselves. The Museo del Teatro Romano counts as two museum entries. Other options include a tourist boat and/or bus trip.

5Eating

La Fuente TAPAS€

(%868 04 73 22; www.bodegalafuente.com; Calle Jara 17; 1 drink & tapas €1.90; h10am-5pm & 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm & 7.30pm-midnight Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; W)

Bright and busy, this place, which lives up to its name by indeed featuring a fountain, makes a top stop for a quick drink and a tapas. The speciality is anchovies, long and tasty, from the Bay of Biscay. A knot of similar bars here also offer a cheap drink-and-snack deal. The street number of 17 is also misleadingly numbered as 27.

El Barrio de San Roque SPANISH€€

(%968 50 06 00; www.elbarriodesanroque.es; Calle Jabonerías 30; mains €12-20; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11pm Mon-Sat)

Done Roman and it’s time for a decent central meal? Much of the pedestrian area is taken up with fairly mediocre restaurants pulling in cruise-ship visitors with frozen paellas, but this discreet, elegant place offers real quality. The €20 lunchtime menú is excellent, and the exposed brick, sizeable tables and polite service make this a pleasant haven.

oMagoga SPANISH€€€

(%968 50 96 78; www.restaurantemagoga.com; Plaza Doctor Vicente García Marcos; mains €15-26; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun; W)

Elegant dining areas and an open kitchen characterise this smart white-exteriored local on a nondesript pedestrian boulevard off Calle Carlos III. The gastronomic enthusiasm of the young owners shines through in the food, which is far above most of Cartagena’s culinary offerings. Good-value rices and stews take their place alongside superbly prepared and presented fish and meat mains.

La Marquesita SPANISH€€€

(%968 50 77 47; www.lamarquesita.net; Plaza Alcolea 6; mains €13-24; h1-4.30pm & 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun; W)

On a tucked-away plaza just off the pedestrian main drag, this place is easily spotted by its riot of pot plants. Sit in or out to enjoy quality fish dishes in particular, with other traditional plates on offer. It’s a family affair, and genuinely welcoming.

7Shopping

Centro para la Artesanía ARTS & CRAFTS

(www.carm.es; Calle Honda 10; h10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-1.30pm Sat) S

This government-funded shop displays the works of local artisans. There’s an excellent range of everything from paintings to honey. It’s a great spot to browse.

8Information

Most of the Roman sites can furnish you with a city map and information; handy if you arrive outside tourist-office hours.

Ayuntamiento Tourist Office (%968 12 89 55; www.cartagenaturismo.es; Plaza del Ayuntamiento 1; h10am-1.30pm & 4-6pm (5-7pm May-Sep) Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1.30pm Sun) Near the waterfront in the heart of town.

Puertas de San José Tourist Office (%968 12 89 55; www.cartagenaturismo.es; Plaza Basterreche; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat Oct-Apr, 10am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat May-Sep) Plenty of excellent information near the bus station. If it’s shut, go to the desk in the Muralla Púnica opposite.

8Getting There & Away

Buses run six to seven times daily to Alicante (€9, 2¾ hours), and roughly hourly to Murcia (€4.75, 45 minutes to 1¼ hours) from the bus station (Avenida Trovero Marín).

For Renfe train destinations, you’ll mostly have to change in Murcia (from €5.45, 50 minutes, eight to 11 daily), though there are some through trains. If getting off in Murcia, take the local train as the slightly faster Altaria/Talgo trains can cost substantially more.

A taxi to or from Murcia-San Javier Airport costs approximately €50 (30 minutes).

Costa Cálida

Stretching westwards to the border with Andalucía, the Costa Cálida (Warm Coast) is aptly named. It offers a hot, dry climate with more than 300 days of annual sunshine. While the sprawling resort of La Manga is unappealing, quieter seaside towns offer a more engrossing experience.

Águilas

POP 34,700

Nearing the border with Andalucía, and 30km further along the coast from Mazarrón, you’ll reach low-key Águilas, with a slowish vibe and pleasant centre. The waterfront in town is beautiful, and still shelters a small fishing fleet; back from here is lovely Plaza de España, with dignified trees. Town beaches are divided from each other by a low headland topped by an 18th-century fortress. The really charming beaches, though, are the Cuatro Calas a few kilometres south of town.

zFestivals & Events

oCarnaval de Águilas CARNIVAL

(www.carnavaldeaguilas.org; hFeb/Mar)

One of Spain’s most interesting Carnavals, featuring four characters who represent various aspects of humanity, virtues and vices. There are parades from the Friday through to Shrove Tuesday, as well as the following weekend.

4Sleeping

Pensión Rodríguez PENSION€

(%968 41 06 15; http://aguilaspensionrodriguez.blogspot.com; Calle Ramón y Cajal 7; s with shared/private bathroom €23/27, d with shared/private bathroom €37/42; W)

In a relatively central part of town and a short stroll to the beach, Pensión Rodríguez offers spotless rooms for a low price. Matilde the boss is very helpful and kind. A good deal.

oHotel Mayarì HOTEL€€

(%964 41 97 48; www.hotel-mayari.com; Calle Río de Janeiro 14, Calabardina; s/d incl breakfast €65/98; hMar-Nov; paW)

In the seaside settlement of Calabardina, 7km from Águilas, this airy villa offers exceptional hospitality among dry, handsome hillscapes. Rooms are simple and comfortable and all different, with cool, fresh decor. Some have sea views, and there are brilliant home-cooked dinners available by request, as well as helpful hill-walking advice and bikes to explore the area.

Hotel Puerto Juan Montiel HOTEL€€

(%968 49 34 93; www.hotelpuertojuanmontiel.com; Avenida del Puerto Deportivo 1; r incl breakfast €90-176; paiWs)

This place occupies an ugly building by the marina, although it’s substantially better than the hotels in the centre. The beach is paces away, and rooms are of very good size, airy and functionally modern. Facilities are good, with a summer pool, on-site restaurant and lots of lounging space. Sea views cost slightly more. Prices drop substantially outside of high summer.

5Eating

El Pimiento SPANISH€

(Calle Joaquín Tendero 1; tapas €1-12; h6.30pm-1am)

Cheerfully super-Spanish decor of horse paraphernalia, tiles and hanging hams makes this an upbeat place from the get-go; the colourful tables inside and sprawling down the steps outdoors are always packed, adding plenty of atmosphere. The tapas are simple – think big, generous chunks of meat, bread, potatoes, tomato – very tasty and extremely well priced. An enjoyable spot.

oEl Poli SEAFOOD€€

(%968 41 34 21; www.facebook.com/elpolirest; Calle Floridablanca 23; dishes €5-15; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11pm Wed-Mon)

With a traditional varnished wood interior, albeit with a shipboard feel, this looks like another barrio cafe until you realise that the menu is all locally caught fish and shellfish. Don’t spend too much time browsing it though, as only what was available in the fish market is offered. It’s cooked simply and is delicious, served by brilliant staff at generous prices.

8Information

Tourist Office (%968 49 32 85; www.aguilas.es; Plaza Antonio Cortijos; h10am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun mid-Sep–Apr, to 8pm May & Jun, 9.30am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-9pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Jul–mid-Sep) Near the water in the heart of town.

8Getting There & Away

Buses go to Lorca (€3, 30 minutes, three to seven daily) and Murcia (€8.90, 1½ hours, two to four daily) as well as Cartagena (€7.20, 1¾ hours, two to three daily) and Almería (€9.60, 2¼ hours, two to three daily).

Cercanía trains on the C2 line run from Murcia (€7.95, 1¾ hours) via Lorca three times daily.

Lorca

POP 91,700

The market town of Lorca has long been known for its pretty old town crowned by a 13th-century castle and for hosting Spain’s most flamboyant Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations. In 2011 an earthquake struck here, leaving nine people dead, and many injured and homeless. It caused significant material damage, with the old town affected particularly badly. Lorca has bounced back now and there’s a tangible air of optimism again in the town, which makes it a great place to visit.

1Sights

oPlaza de España SQUARE

The highlight of the old town is a group of baroque buildings around Plaza de España, including the Pósito, a 16th-century former granary; the 18th-century Casa del Corregidor; and the town hall. Lording over the square is the golden limestone Colegiata de San Patricio, finally reopened in 2017 after substantial damage in the 2011 earthquake.

oColegiata de San Patricio CHURCH

(%968 46 99 66; Plaza de España; adult/child €2/free; h11am-1pm & 6-7pm Mon-Sat)

This stately and beautiful gem of a church presides in golden-stone majesty over Lorca’s central square. The sober and handsome triple-tiered baroque facade conceals a triple-naved interior Renaissance interior with a fine altarpiece and other paintings. It was heavily damaged in the 2011 earthquake and only reopened recently. Work is still underway; as well as reconstruction, it’s been a process of investigation, because the disaster’s silver lining was the discovery of previously unknown paintings and crypts. Buy tickets in the adjacent tourist office.

Museo de Bordados del Paso Azul MUSEUM

(MASS; %968 47 20 77; www.pasoazul.com; Calle Cuesta de San Francisco; adult/child €3/free; h10.30am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun)

Attached to the San Francisco monastery, this is the modern museum of the Azul (Blue) Holy Week brotherhood, and gives an excellent idea of what Semana Santa means to the locals. As well as stirring videos and background information, the marvellous costumes are on display. If you go on a weekday, you may find people at work on them in the embroidery workshop upstairs – a great chance to see the work up close.

Some cloaks are up to 5m in length and all are elaborately hand-embroidered in silk, depicting colourful religious and historical scenes.

One of the museum sections takes you into the galleries of the church, an interesting outlook. To visit the church from ground level, it’s an extra €1.

Museo de Bordados del Paso Blanco MUSEUM

(muBBla; %968 46 18 13; www.mubbla.org; Calle Santo Domingo 8; adult/child €2.50/free; h10.30am-2pm & 4.30-7pm or 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun)

Attached to the church of Santo Domingo, this is the museum of the Blanco (White) Semana Santa brotherhood. Here you can see a collection of the beautifully elaborate robes worn by them during the passionately supported Holy Week processions. They are well displayed and extraordinary, depicting scenes from the Bible and antiquity. You might be advised to put the sunglasses on for the shiny baroque gold of the adjacent chapel of the Virgen del Rosario.

Castillo Fortaleza del Sol CASTLE

(Castillo de Lorca; %968 47 90 03; www.lorcatallerdeltiempo.com; Carretera de la Parroquia; adult/child €5/4; h10.30am-dusk; c)

The town’s castle, high over town, is an impressive place, a huge medieval complex characterised by two towers. The basic entry includes an audio guide and access to the Torre del Espolón, reconstructed after the earthquake, various cisterns and ramparts as well as exhibition spaces. The handsome Torre Alfonsina and the reconstructed synagogue plus ruins of the Jewish quarter can be visited twice or more daily by recommended guided tour (€4 each). A combined €10 entrance fee includes both tours.

zFestivals & Events

oSemana Santa RELIGIOUS

(http://semanasantalorca.com; hMar/Apr)

If you’re from Lorca, you’re probably passionately Blanco (White) or Azul (Blue), the colours of the two major brotherhoods that have competed since 1855 to see who can stage the most lavish Semana Santa display. Lorca’s Easter parades are very distinctive; while still deeply reverential, they’re full of colour and vitality, mixing figures from antiquity and Old Testament tales with the Passion story.

Each brotherhood has a statue of the Virgin (one draped in a blue mantle, the other in white, naturally), a banner and a spectacular museum (Museo de Bordados del Paso Azul and Museo de Bordados del Paso Blanco). The result of this intense and mostly genial year-round rivalry is just about the most dramatic Semana Santa you’ll see anywhere in Spain. Processions feature horses, theatrical set pieces, colourful characters – gods, emperors and heroes – stirring music and plenty of emotion.

4Sleeping & Eating

oParador de Lorca HERITAGE HOTEL€€

(%968 40 60 47; www.parador.es; Castillo de Lorca; r €90-170; paiWs)

Memorably situated in the castle complex way above town is this modern, spick-and-span parador (luxurious state-run hotel, often set in a historic building). Rooms are tip-top, there’s an indoor pool and spa and the views are just stunning. Various archaeological fragments are integrated into the hotel, including a reconstructed synagogue next to the car park.

Rates are normally around the €90 mark but tend to be much higher on Saturdays.

Jardines de Lorca HOTEL€€

(%968 47 05 99; www.hoteljardinesdelorca.com; Alameda de Rafael Méndez; r €65-80; paiWs)

A short walk from the centre, and handy for bus and train stations, this large complex has something of a resort feel. Its spacious rooms are comfortable and marble-tiled, though there’s some echoing noise from passageways. They come with a balcony. Facilities are excellent, including a spa, summer-only pool, gym and tennis courts. Prices are variable but very reasonable.

Albedrío TAPAS€

(%660 409702; http://albedrio.es; Plaza Calderón de la Barca 2; tapas €1-7; h11am-12.30am, kitchen closed 4.30-8pm; W)

Below the level of the square, this bright and buzzy spot is a very welcome addition to the Lorca eating scene. A mural of Bogart and Hepburn overlooks chunky wooden tables where you can order from a wide range of locally inflected tapas. They are extraordinarily good value, with homemade croquettes, spicy morcilla (blood pudding) and fishy snacks among the delights.

Casa Roberto SPANISH€€

(%968 44 25 58; Calle Corredera 21; mains €12-18; hnoon-4pm & 8-11pm)

In an attractive pink house on the principal pedestrian street, this likeable family-run restaurant is a sound bet. There’s a series of rooms converted into intimate dining areas, as well as a pleasant courtyard. Dishes cover a good range of traditional and contemporary Spanish ingredients and prices are fair.

THE BALEARICS

The Balearic Islands (Illes Balears in Catalan) adorn the glittering Mediterranean waters off Spain’s eastern coastline. Beach tourism destinations par excellence, each of the islands has a distinct identity and each has managed to retain much of its individual character and beauty. All boast beaches second to none in the Med, but each offers reasons for exploring inland, too.

Getting There & Around

Charter and regular flights head to Mallorca and Ibiza from all over Europe. Ferries are the other main way of getting to and between the islands. Barcelona, Dénia, Gandia and Valencia are the mainland ports, with boats operated by Baleària and Trasmediterránea.

Mallorca

The ever-popular star of the Mediterranean, Mallorca has a sunny personality thanks to its ravishing beaches, azure views, remote mountains and soulful hill towns.

PALMA DE MALLORCA

Rising in honey-coloured stone from the waters of the Badia de Palma, this stunning city dates back to the 13th-century Christian reconquest of the island, and to the Moors, Romans and Talayotic people before that. A diadem of historical sites, Palma also offers a huge array of galleries, restaurants, and bars – it’s without doubt Mallorca’s greatest treasure.

SIGHTS

Catedral de Mallorca (La Seu; www.catedraldemallorca.org; Carrer del Palau Reial 9; adult/child €7/free; h10am-6.15pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep, to 5.15pm Apr, May & Oct, to 3.15pm Nov-Mar, 10am-2.15pm Sat year-round) Palma’s vast cathedral (‘La Seu’ in Catalan) is the city’s major architectural landmark. Aside from its sheer scale and undoubted beauty, its stunning interior features, designed by Antoni Gaudí and renowned contemporary artist Miquel Barceló, make this unlike any cathedral elsewhere in the world. The awesome structure is predominantly Gothic, apart from the main facade, which is startling, quite beautiful and completely mongrel.

Palau de l’Almudaina (https://entradas.patrimonionacional.es; Carrer del Palau Reial; adult/child €7/4, audio guide €3, guided tour €4; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun year-round) Originally an Islamic fort, this mighty construction opposite the cathedral was converted into a residence for the Mallorcan monarchs at the end of the 13th century. The King of Spain resides here still, at least symbolically. The royal family is rarely in residence, except for the occasional ceremony, as they prefer to spend summer in the Palau Marivent (in Cala Major). At other times you can wander through a series of cavernous stone-walled rooms that have been lavishly decorated.

Palau March (%971 71 11 22; www.fundacionbmarch.es; Carrer del Palau Reial 18; adult/child €4.50/free; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar, to 2pm Sat year-round) This palatial house was one of several residences of the phenomenally wealthy March family. Sculptures by 20th-century greats including Henry Moore, Auguste Rodin and Barbara Hepworth grace the terrace. Within lie more treasures from Salvador Dalí and Josep Maria Sert. Don’t miss the meticulously crafted figures of an 18th-century Neapolitan belén (nativity scene).

INFORMATION

Consell de Mallorca Tourist Office (%971 17 39 90; www.infomallorca.net; Plaça de la Reina 2; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; W) Covers the whole island.

AROUND MALLORCA

Mallorca’s northwestern coast is a world away from the high-rises on the other side of the island. Dominated by the Serra de Tramuntana, it’s a beautiful region of olive groves, pine forests and small villages. There are a couple of highlights for drivers: the hair-raising road down to the small port of Sa Calobra, and the trip to the island’s northern tip, Cap Formentor.

Menorca

Renowned for its pristine beaches and archaeological sites, tranquil Menorca was declared a Biosphere Reserve by Unesco in 1993. Maó absorbs most of the tourist traffic. North of here, a drive across a lunar landscape leads to the lighthouse at Cap de Faváritx. South of the cape stretch sandy bays and beaches, including Cala Presili and Platja d’en Tortuga, reachable on foot. Ciutadella, with its smaller harbour and historic buildings, has a more distinctly Spanish feel. A narrow road leads south from here to some lovely beaches, for which you’ll need your own transport. In the centre of the island, 357m-high Monte Toro has great views. On the northern coast, the picturesque town of Fornells is on a large bay popular with windsurfers.

Ibiza

Ibiza (Eivissa in Catalan) is an island of extremes. Its party reputation is justified, with some of the world’s greatest clubs attracting hedonists from the world over. The interior and northeast of the island, however, are another world. Peaceful drives, green hills, laid-back beaches and coves, and some wonderful inland accommodation and eateries are light years from the pumping beats of the west.

IBIZA TOWN

The heart and soul of the island, this vivacious, stylish capital has a magical, fortified World Heritage–listed old quarter topped by a castle and cathedral and set against a spectacular natural harbour. It’s also a shopaholic’s dream and a world-famous party destination.

SIGHTS

Dalt Vila Its formidable 16th-century bastions visible from across southern Ibiza, Dalt Vila is a fortified hilltop first settled by the Phoenicans and subsequently occupied by a roster of others. Tranquil and atmospheric, many of its cobbled lanes are accessible only on foot. It’s mostly residential, but contains medieval mansions and several key cultural sights. Enter via the Portal de Ses Taules and wind your way uphill: all lanes lead to the summit.

Ramparts Encircling Dalt Vila, Ibiza’s colossal protective walls reach more than 25m in height and include seven bastions. Floodlit at night, these fortifications were constructed to protect Ibizans from north-African raiders and the Turkish navy. In under an hour, you can walk the entire 2km perimeter, enjoying great views over the port and south to Formentera.

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

Sa Penya is the centre of Ibiza Town’s nightlife. Dozens of bars keep the port area buzzing from sunset until the early hours. Later on, hit the world-famous nightclubs such as Pacha (www.pachaibiza.com; Avinguda 8 d’Agost; admission from €20; hmidnight-6.30am May-Sep). Just south of town, Platja d’en Bossa heaves with bars and clubs.

INFORMATION

Oficina d’Informació Turística (%971 30 19 00; http://ibiza.travel; Avinguda de Santa Eulària; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun, reduced hours mid-Oct–Apr) Island-wide office next to the Formentera ferry terminal.

AROUND IBIZA

Ibiza has numerous unspoiled and relatively undeveloped beaches. Cala de Boix, on the northeastern coast, is the only black-sand beach on the island, while further north are the lovely strands of S’Aigua Blanca. On the north coast near Portinatx, Cala Xarraca is in a picturesque, secluded bay, and near Port de Sant Miquel is the attractive Cala Benirrás. In the southwest, Cala d’Hort has a spectacular setting overlooking two rugged rock islets.

The best thing about rowdy Sant Antoni, the island’s second-biggest town, is heading to the small rock-and-sand strip on the north shore to join hundreds of others for sunset drinks at a string of chilled bars. The best known remains Café del Mar (%971 80 37 58; www.cafedelmaribiza.es; Carrer de Lepant 27; h5pm-midnight May–mid-Oct), a little further north.

Formentera

Off the south coast of Ibiza, a mere half-hour away by fast ferry, the island of Formentera is a beautifully pure, get-away-from-it-all escape designed for lazy days spent lounging on some of Europe’s most exquisite beaches. Frost-white sand is smoothed by water in shades of azure, turquoise and lapis lazuli. Tourism here is tightly tied to environmental ethics, with hotel numbers restricted, construction controlled and most visitors exploring on two wheels. There are few sights and little nightlife, making Formentera perfect for revelling in blissful barefoot living.

7Shopping

oCentro para la Artesanía ARTS & CRAFTS

(%968 46 39 12; www.carm.es; Calle Lope Gisbert; h10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-1.30pm Sat) S

It’s quite a surprise to go through the door here, and gradually descend into an enormous concrete structure replete with all kinds of handicrafts, from colourful rugs to wine and marvellous ceramics. A government initiative, it’s a great place to browse and buy. No street number; it’s opposite number 7 and next to the Palacio de Guevara.

8Information

Centro de Visitantes (%968 44 19 14; www.lorcatallerdeltiempo.es; Puerto de San Ginés; h10am-2pm) On the edge of the old town, this visitor centre has tourist information, sells visitor tickets and is a handy place to park.

Tourist Office (%968 44 19 14; www.lorcaturismo.es; Plaza de España; h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun, to 7pm or 7.30pm in summer) On the Plaza de España in the heart of the old town.

8Getting There & Away

Hourly buses (€5.95, 1½ hours) and C2-line cercanía trains (€5.75, 50 minutes) run between Lorca and Murcia. Various bus services run into Almería province and beyond.

Parque Regional de Sierra Espuña

The Sierra Espuña, a 40-minute drive southwest of Murcia towards Lorca, is an island of pine forest rising high into the sky above an ocean of heat and dust. Sitting just north of the N340, the natural park that protects this fragile and beautiful environment has more than 250 sq km of unspoilt highlands covered with trails and is popular with walkers, climbers, cyclists and mountain bikers. Limestone formations tower above the sprawling forests. In the northwest of the park are many pozos de la nieve (ice houses) where, until the arrival of industrial refrigeration, snow was compressed into ice, then taken to nearby towns in summer.

Access to the park is best via Alhama de Murcia. The informative Centro de Visitantes Ricardo Codorniu (%968 43 14 30; www.sierraespuna.com; h9am-2pm & 3-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-3.30pm Sun Oct-May, 9am-3.30pm Sun & Tue-Thu, 9am-3.30pm & 5-8pm Fri & Sat Jun-Sep) is located in the heart of the park. A few walking trails leave from this visitor centre, and it can provide good maps for these and several other picturesque hikes.

The village of El Berro makes for a great base for the sierra. It has trailheads for a couple of good circular walks, a couple of restaurants and the friendly Camping Sierra Espuña (%968 66 80 38; www.campingsierraespuna.com; Calle de Juan Bautista; site per person €5, tent €5, car €5, 2-/6-person bungalows €55-106; pWs). For something altogether more luxurious, you can’t beat the Bajo el Cejo (%968 66 80 32; www.bajoelcejo.com; Calle El Paso; r incl breakfast €116-143; paWs).

Another base for the sierra, and for northern Murcia in general, is the town of Mula. The town is a web of old streets squashed up against a pinnacle of dry rock topped by the very battered remnants of a castle. From a distance, the town actually looks like it’s dropped straight out of a Middle Eastern fairy tale. Excellent accommodation is available at El Molino de Felipe (%968 66 20 13; www.hotelruralmula.com; Carretera Ribera de los Molinos 321, Mula; d €48, apt for 2/4/6 €70/106/142; paWs), about 4km from town.

8Getting There & Away

The park is best accessed by car. The town of Alhama de Murcia is easily reached by bus from Murcia (€3.50, 45 minutes), but it’s 19km from here to the visitor centre in the heart of the park. Mula is also accessible by bus from Murcia (€3.30, 45 minutes).

Getting There & Around

Mallorca

Menorca

Ibiza

Formentera

El Maestrazgo

Sant Mateu

LOCAL WALKS

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EXPLORING THE MAESTRAZGO

Morella

Alicante Province

Alicante

Dénia

Xàbia

Calp

WORTH A TRIP

ALTEA

Benidorm

WORTH A TRIP

GUADALEST

Elche

Villena

Orihuela

DON’T MISS

MOROS Y CRISTIANOS

Murcia Province

Murcia

DON’T MISS

TAPAS IN MURCIA

Cartagena

DISCOUNTED ENTRY

Costa Cálida

Águilas

Lorca

THE BALEARICS

Parque Regional de Sierra Espuña