If you visit Prague during the summer months, you will be viewing the historical sights around Prague Castle and Old Town Sq. with thousands of other people trying to cram into the same tightly packed spaces as you. The tours of many of the historic buildings are often long and dry. It will be loud. It will be unpleasant. You might get your wallet stolen. It doesn’t have to be like this. You’ll miss the crowds and save a lot of money if you do your Old Town sightseeing at night. You won’t get to see the interiors of the buildings, but for most part that’s no great loss. The entire Old Town, and especially the Charles Bridge—virtually impassable during the day—are lit up beautifully at night. Once you get away from Old Town Sq., your options start to open up. Žižkov has its share of large structures, including the TV Tower and the Jan Žižka Statue. In Malá Strana, a panoramic view of the city awaits from the top of Petřín Tower.
Aside from historic sights, it’s worth spending a little extra to visit Prague’s art museums, which are some of its best treasures. The largest art museum around is the fantastic Veletržní Palác in Holešovice. For more contemporary art, head a little further into Holešovice to DOX. If you need another reason to hit this hip ’hood, Letenské sady (Letná Park) is a great place to relax, and the Metronome has one of the best (free) views of the city.
Fortunately for you, oh budget-traveler, many of Prague’s best sights may be seen simply by walking down the street. And, as far as we know, you won’t be charged for walking (though do watch out for pickpockets). From churches to walls with John Lennon’s face on them to picturesque streets and gardens, Prague’s free sights are enough to keep you entertained for several days. Additionally, look out for one of the zillion festivals that pop up all over Prague year-round (see www.praguewelcome.cz for a full list).
Alfons Mucha Museum
MUSEUM
Panská 7
224 216 415; www.mucha.cz
A national hero, artist Alfons Mucha rose to fame overnight when he designed a poster on short notice for the French actress Sarah Bernhardt. These days, you can find copies of his work anywhere (you know, semi-nude women in flowing robes, surrounded by flowers and such), but the Alfons Mucha Museum offers a more in-depth look at Mucha’s career. From original banknotes that Mucha designed for the First Czechoslovak Republic to photos of the painter Paul Gaugin playing Mucha’s piano to Mucha’s childhood drawings, the exhibits paint an intimate portrait of the artist. Don’t miss his sketch of a window design for St. Vitus Cathedral (then see the window for yourself in Hradèany). The souvenir shop sells all kinds of reproductions (300-500Kč), so you can take home some Mucha of your very own.
A or B: Můstek. Walk up Wenceslas Sq. toward the St. Wenceslas statue. Turn left on Jindřišská and left again on Panská. 
90Kč, students 60Kč. 
Open daily 10am-6pm.
Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí)
SQUARE
Once a horse market, Václavské náměstí now sells everything but. American-style department stores and historic hotels compete for attention with vendors peddling up to six different types of sausage. The square is dominated by the National Museum, which closed for a five-year renovation in July 2011, and which will hopefully be less of a snoozefest when it reopens. Some of the exhibits have been moved to the modern building next door (Vinohradská 1, www.nm.cz 100Kč, students 70Kč.), so, if you’re intent on looking at Czech archaeological finds, rock samples, and stuffed animals, they’re all yours. Don’t miss the statue of St. Wenceslas, where the proclamation of Czechoslovakia’s independence was read in 1918. Artist David Èerný’s hilarious parody of this statue can be found inside the Lucerna complex on Vodièková.
A or B: Můstek; A or C: Muzeum.
You wouldn’t know it from the traffic, McDonalds, and souvenir shops, but enormous Wenceslas Square has quite an eventful history. Here are just some of the square’s noteworthy events:
• 1348: Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV founds the New Town of Prague, including this, the “Horse Market” square.
• 1680: An equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas (not the statue that is there now) is erected in the middle of the Horse Market square; the saint informally lends his name to the square.
• June 12, 1848: A mass is held in protest of the Hapsburgs’ military response to calls for liberal constitutional reform. A week of fighting in the streets ensues.
• 1848: To commemorate the unsuccessful revolutionary uprisings, the square is officially renamed for Wenceslas, the 10th-century duke and patron saint of Bohemia.
• 1912: The currently standing equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas is installed. Nationalism follows. Other sculptures in the square include a stack of cars and Superman flying face-first into the pavement.
• October 28, 1918: The First Czechoslovak Republic declares itself an independent nation. Independence is brief.
• January 16, 1969: Student Jan Palach protests the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia by lighting himself on fire. Today, a monument commemorates the heroic act.
• March 28, 1969: Czechoslovakia defeats its Soviet occupiers in ice hockey. And there is much rejoicing (in Wenceslas Sq., of course).
• November 17-December 19, 1989: “Velvet Revolution” demonstrations fill the square. Neither the Czechs nor the velvet is crushed—a turning point in the history of each.
• Today: Make your own history! (No tanks or fires, though, please.)
LANDMARK
Rašínovo nábřeží 80
Now in its mid-teens, the Dancing House is one of Prague’s most recognizable buildings. Designed by Frank Gehry and Vlado Miluniæ, it was originally dubbed “Fred and Ginger” after the famous dancing duo. The Dancing House was built in an empty lot left after the Bombing of Prague—an aerial raid by the US Army Air Forces in 1945 that was supposedly the result of a navigational error. It doesn’t quite fit in with the crusty Baroque and Art Nouveau crowd nearby, and its construction sparked a heated debate about architecture in Prague. The top floor of the Dancing House is home to an upscale French restaurant, but you can get in for the price of a drink when the restaurant closes to let in customers from the downstairs cafe (4-6pm).
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, walk down Resslova toward the river. The building is on the left. Coffee 45-70Kč. Beer 40-90Kč.
Saint Henry Tower (Jindřišská věž)
TOWER
Jindřišská ulice
224 232 429; www.jindrisskavez.cz
Dating back to 1455, this tower was ingeniously converted so that most of its floors serve different roles—from the bottom up: whiskey bar (fl. 0-1), gallery (fl. 2-4), toilets (fl. 5), museum (fl. 6), restaurant (fl. 7-9), and observation deck (fl. 10). The price of a ticket allows you to see everything inside, so take the elevator to the top and then descend. The view from the top is rather average, the gallery space is encroached upon by a liquor store, and the exhibition on Prague’s 120 towers takes itself a little too seriously, but it’s worth peeking inside the posh restaurant, where patrons compete for space with the tower’s scaffolding system and a 16th-century bell.
A or B: Můstek. From the Metro, walk up Wenceslas Sq. toward the St. Wenceslas statue. Turn left on Jindřišská and continue to the end of the street. 80Kč, students 55Kč. Cash only. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-7pm. Oct-Mar 10am-6pm.
New Town Hall (Novoměstská radnice)
LANDMARK
Karlovo náměstí 1/23
224 948 225; www.nrpraha.cz
This town hall is more interesting for its history than its architecture—it was here that the First Defenestration of Prague took place in 1419, when a mob of Hussites stormed the town hall and tossed some 15 councilors and other dignitaries out the window. Later on, the building functioned as a prison, and executions took place in the town hall’s courtyard as recently as during the Nazi occupation. Today you can climb the tower’s 221 steps to the top and check out photo exhibits as you go.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, look for the giant tower on the northern end of the square. 30Kč. Cash only. Open Apr-Oct Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
Our Lady of the Snow (Kostel Panny Marie Sněžné)
CHURCH
Jungmannovo náměstí 18
Our Lady of the Snow is one of the most oddly shaped churches in Central Europe. Charles IV commissioned it the day after his coronation, hoping to end up with a monster cathedral that would overshadow even St. Vitus. Unfortunately, the Hussite Wars interrupted construction, and the church was severely damaged. When Dominican monks reconstructed it, they had to abandon the original design. Only one nave and the impressively large ceilings remained from Charles IV’s plan. Before you leave, check out the tiny St. Michael’s chapel (on the right when you enter), where services take place in winter, since the disproportionately tall church isn’t heated.
A or B: Můstek. From the Metro, walk down 28. října, then turn left on Jungmannovo náměstí. The entrance to the church is behind the statue of the poet J. Jungmann. Open daily 6:30am-7pm. Services Su 9, 10:15, 11:30am, 6pm.
GARDEN
With clipped evergreen hedges and plenty of trees, this hidden oasis between Our Lady of the Snow and bustling Wenceslas Sq. may surprise if you happen upon it by chance. Massive, strange, lightbulb-like street lamps line the walk, but, unfortunately, the park closes before you can see them in their full glory. The picturesque cottage in the middle of the roses is actually a secondhand clothing store.
A or B: Můstek. Enter through the arch to the left of Jungmannova and Národní, behind the statue. Open daily Apr-Aug 7am-10pm; Sept-Oct 7am-8pm; Oct-Apr 8am-7pm.
Emauzy Monastery
MONASTERY
Vyšehradská 49
324 917 662; www.emauzy.cz
Founded by (who else?) Charles IV, Emauzy Monastery avoided being burned down by the Hussites thanks to its connection to the martyr Jan Hus, who studied here. Instead, it was turned into the first and only Hussite monastery, which lasted long after the Hussite Wars ended. Some centuries later, the monastery served as home to Johannes Kepler, the scientist who explained planetary motion. If you don’t want to pay for a ticket, you can come see the impressive chapel during mass (daily 10am and 6pm). Outside of religious services, Emauzy is your typical monastery—empty, decrepit, and echoing.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the park, follow the signs to the monastery down Vyšehradská. 50Kč. Open M-F 11am-5pm, closes earlier in winter. Mass daily 10am, 6pm.
Prague’s Quirkiest Museums
When you tire of castles, churches, and pretty houses, check out some of these funky Czech museums:
• Museum of Communism. The best things about this museum are its promotional posters, featuring a fanged but otherwise adorable matryoshka doll.
• Sex Machines Museum. The name says it all. The collection (Melantrichova 18) covers the gamut from 16th century chastity belts to pornographic films allegedly made for King Alfonso XIII of Spain.
• Kepler Museum. Rumor has it that the people in charge of this bizarre, clearly counterfactual museum (Karlova 4) of untruth believe the Earth revolves around the sun!
• Franz Kafka Museum. If the authorities decide to allow you to visit this museum, you will wake up one morning to find two men in your hotel room who will let you know when you are scheduled to arrive. Do not be late.
Museum of Communism
MUSEUM
Na Příkopě 10
224 212 966; www.museumofcommunism.com
If your understanding of communism is limited to Borat’s “my sister is number four prostitute in all of Kazakhstan,” this is a good opportunity to branch out. Recreations of some of the typical architectural spaces (a grocery store, an interrogation room, etc.) and a number of artifacts from the communist era make this museum amusing for some and terrifying for others. The only gripe on our side is the disproportionately high admission price, but hey, it’s capitalism.
A or B: Můstek. From the Metro, head down Na Příkopě, then turn right inside a courtyard. Enter through a casino door. The museum is on the 2nd floor. 180Kč, students 140Kč. Open daily 9am-9pm.
Antonín Dvořák Museum
MUSEUM
Ke Karlovu 20
224 918 013; www.nm.cz
Also called “Michnùv Letohrádek”, this nobleman’s villa served as a restaurant and a cattle market before becoming the museum that it is today. The exhibit is on the smaller side, but contains quite a few of Antonín Dvořák’s worldly possessions, which range from his graduation gown from Cambridge University (he received an honorary degree) to his musical instruments to his flask and eyeglasses. The upper floor’s walls are covered with 18th-century paintings, the only remaining feature of the villa’s original decor.
C: I.P. Pavlova. From the station, head west on Jeèná and take the 1st left onto Kateřinská. Then take the 1st left on Ke Karlovu; the museum is on the left. 50Kč, students 25Kč. Concerts 575Kč. Cash only. Open Tu-W 10am-1:30pm and 2-5pm, Th 11am-1:30pm and 2-7pm, F-Su 10am-1:30pm and 2-5pm.
Charles University Botanical Gardens
GARDEN
Na Slupi 16
221 951 879; www.bz-uk.cz
Founded in 1898, the Charles University Botanical Gardens contain some 3000 species of plants in a several-acre garden. Admission to the garden is free, but you’ll need a ticket to enter the greenhouses, which house temporary plant exhibitions (cacti, orchids, etc.) and a few caged parrots.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, follow Vyšehradská south until it becomes Na Slupi. Alternatively, take tram 18 or 24 to Botanická záhrada. 50Kč, students 25Kč. Gardens open daily Apr-Aug 10am-7:30pm; Sept-Oct 10am-6pm; Nov-Jan 10am-4pm; Feb-Mar 10am-5pm. Greenhouses close 1hr. earlier.
Church of Saint Ignatius
CHURCH
Jeèná 2
221 990 200; www.jesuit.cz
Notice the figure of St. Ignatius on the peak of this Baroque Jesuit church—in its heyday, it was considered semi-heretical, as clerical rules stated that a full-body halo could only be used for Christ himself. The Jesuit order was so strong, though, that it could afford to break this rule without consequence. The church is the third largest Jesuit complex in all of Europe. The sculptures on the altar are the work of Matěj Václav Jäckel, who is best known for the statues on the Charles Bridge.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, head away from the river toward Jeèná. The church is on the corner. Open daily 6am-noon and 3:30-6:30pm. Services daily 6:15, 7:30am, 5:30pm. Mass Su 7, 9, 11am, 5:30pm.
Charles Bridge
BRIDGE
Probably the most famous sight in all of Prague, Charles Bridge is always packed, and for good reasons. Charles IV commissioned the bridge (if you haven’t figured it out already, Charles IV is responsible for everything cool in Prague), and he laid the first stone on July 9, 1357 at exactly 5:31am. Can you guess why? (See answer below.) Although the bridge was originally decorated with a single crucifix, 30 statues were added between 1600 and 1800, including such shady characters as St. Augustine and Lamenting Christ. Weather damage forced the city to remove the original statues, which are now displayed at the National Gallery (see Holešovice) and Vyšehrad (see Vi-nohrady). The bridge also features the Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská mostecká věž), which offers a bird’s eye view of the city below. If you don’t cross the bridge around sunset at least once, you haven’t really been to Prague.
A: Malostranská or Staroměstská. 
Here’s the answer: if you write down the date and time of when the first stone was laid, you get the chiasmus 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1. (A Dan Brown novel is waiting to be written.) Tower 70Kč, students 50Kč. Open daily Nov-Dec 10am-8pm; Apr-Oct 10am-10pm; Dec-Mar 10am-6pm.
Astronomical Clock Tower and Old Town Hall (Staroměstská Radnice)
Landmark
Staroměstské náměstí
724 911 556; www.praguetowers.com
It is said that after the city council hired the clockmaker Hanuš to build this world-famous clock, they gouged out his eyes so he could never repeat his work (talk about worker’s comp issues). In reality, Hanuš wasn’t even the builder—the astronomical clock was the work of another clockmaker, Mikuláš of Kadaň. At the ripe age of 600 years (the big birthday bash was in 2010), this mysterious machine still tracks movements of the sun, the moon, and much, much more. On the hour, there’s always a little show: 12 apostles poke their heads out, a rooster crows, and the crowd of tourists below goes bananas. If you want to go all meta, take a photo of all the gaping tourists; if you want to go meta-meta, take a photo of people taking photos of people… the possibilities are endless. For an amazing view of the city, head to the top of the tower. There’s also a tour of the Old Town Hall, which includes a behind-the-scenes view of the apostle clock (if you come on the hour, you’ll see the apostles move) and a walk through the original Romanesque basement. The basement served as the original ground floor before the king raised the level of Old Town by some 5m to protect it from flooding.
A: Staroměstská. Southwest corner of Old Town Sq. Exhibition hall 100Kč, students 80Kč. Tower 100Kč/50Kč. Cash only. Hall open M 11am-6pm, Tu-Su 9am-6pm (last tour at 5pm). Tower open M 11am-10pm, Tu-Su 9am-10pm.
Church of Our Lady Before Týn (Matky Boží před Týnem)
CHURCH
Staroměstské náměstí
Our Lady Before Týn dominates the skyline of Old Town Sq. with two enormous spires sticking out among the surrounding Baroque buildings. This 14th-century church contains the remains of the astronomer Tycho Brahe, who revolutionized the way the movement of planets was understood and who allegedly peed himself to death: as the popular story goes, in 1601 Brahe was at Emperor Rudolf’s for dinner, and, in the name of decorum, he refused to leave the dinner table to relieve himself, until his bladder burst. Today, science suggests that the real reason for his death might have been mercury poisoning, but who cares about science? Maybe we’ll know for sure when the results of the latest analysis come in—in 2010, scientists closed the church down, opened Brahe’s tomb, and studied his remains.
A: Staroměstská. It’s the giant twin towers in Old Town Sq. Free. Open Tu-Sa 10am-1pm and 3-5pm, Su 10:30am-noon.
Municipal House (Obecní Dům)
CONCERT HALL
Naměstí Republiky 5
222 002 101; www.obecnidum.cz
Standing on the grounds where Czech kings used to reside, Municipal House is the site of two important events in Czech history. It was here that Czechoslovakia declared independence in 1918 and that the Communist Party held the first meetings with Václav Havel and other leaders of Obèanské fórum (Civic forum, a pro-democracy movement) in 1989. But Municipal House is not only historically significant—it’s also beautiful. Built in the Art Nouveau style in 1912, this state house features works from more than 20 of the country’s top artists; every detail, from the shape of the door handles to the patterns on the banisters, is the careful work of some Art Noveau master. Daily guided tours take visitors through Smetana Hall, where the Czech Philharmonic plays, and the Mayor’s Hall, decorated by Czech artist Alfons Mucha. There’s also a separate exhibition that features just one object: a replica (!) of the Crown of St. Wenceslas, a jewel-studded national treasure (the original is locked away in St. Vitus Cathedral). If you don’t feel like paying for a tour, you can stop by Kavárna Obecní Dùm located on the ground floor. It’s a bit expensive, but ordering a coffee (58Kč) will allow you to linger under its eight enormous chandeliers in the impressive Art Nouveau interior.
B: Náměstí Republiky. From Old Town Sq., walk east on Celetná all the way to Náměstí Republiky; Municipal House is on the left. Tours in Czech and English. Tickets must be purchased on the day of your visit at the ticket office located in the basement of the Municipal House. Guided tours 270Kč, students 230Kč. Crown of St. Wenceslas (Svatováclavská Koruna) exhibit 120Kč, students 60Kč. Open daily 10am-7pm. Tour times vary by week and month; check the online calendar for details.
Saint James Cathedral (Kostol Svatého Jakuba Většího)
CHURCH
Malá Štupartská 6
This spectacular church is the subject of several gory legends. According to one, a thief tried to steal the necklace off of a Virgin Mary statue. As you can imagine, the statue came to life, grabbed the thief’s arm, and refused to let go. He had to cut off his arm and, to this day, a mummified arm hangs in the church. Another one: during the funeral of Václav Vratislav z Mitrovic, a nobleman and writer, the body was placed into one of the cathedral’s most beautiful tombs. For days after he was buried, terrible noises sounded from the tomb, so the priests sprinkled holy water on it. After some time, the noises subsided. It was only years later, during the burial of Vratislav’s son, that the tomb was reopened and the coffin discovered to be broken with scratch marks everywhere. Coincidentally, a few years before his death, Vratislav had dreamt that he would be buried alive.
From Old Town Sq. head down Týnska (pass Our Lady Before Týn on the left), continuing straight through the courtyards as it turns into Týn. The courtyard lets out at Malá Štupartská, where you should take a left. Free. Open M-Th 9:30am-noon, F 2-4pm, Sa 9:30am-noon and 2-4pm, Su 2-4pm.
Estates Theater (Stavovské Divadlo)
THEATER
železná 11
224 228 503; www.stavovskedivadlo.cz
The Estates Theater is famous for its connection with Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. It was here that Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro first became a smash success following a rather lukewarm premiere in Vienna. Perhaps thanks to this turnaround, Mozart premiered his next opera, Don Giovanni, in this same theater in 1787—be sure to check out the haunting statue commemorating the premiere outside the theater. More recently, the Oscar-winning film Amadeus (directed by Czech emigré Miloš Forman in 1984) features a scene in which Mozart conducts inside the Estates Theater. But Mozart isn’t the theater’s only claim to fame—it was here that the song “Kde Domov Mùj?” first played publicly as part of the opera Fidlovaèka. Why is that important, you ask? It happens to be the anthem of the Czech Republic. Popular ballets, dramas, and operas still play nightly in the Estates, and since the theater offers no public tours, the moderate ticket price is definitely worth the experience.
A or B: Můstek. From Old Town Sq., walk south on Železná. The theater is on the left. Tickets 300-1200Kč. Performances usually at 7pm.
The Black Madonna House (Dùm Èerné Matky Boží)
MUSEUM
Ovocný trh 19
224 301 003; www.ngprague.cz
The Black Madonna House is the best standing example of Cubist architecture—a uniquely Czech trend that tried to apply the rules of Cubism to the third dimension. Designed by Josef Goèár, one of the godfathers of Cubist architecture, the building now contains a permanent exhibit devoted to this Bohemian movement. The paintings can be a bit underwhelming for the layman, but one might find some appreciation for the displays of Cubist furniture. Consumers will also enjoy the gift shop downstairs. Finally, check out the fully restored Cubist Grand Café Orient (see Food) located on the second floor.
B: Náměstí Republiky. From Old Town Sq., walk east on Celetná. The museum is on the left, where Celetná forks with Ovocný trh. 100Kč, students 50Kč. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
Powder Gate (Prašná Brána)
TOWER
Na Příkopě
Six hundred years ago, Horská brána or “Mountain Tower” stood on this site, protecting the city and marking the start of royal coronation ceremonies. When New Town (Nové Město) became a part of the city proper, the tower lost its function and became known as the “Shabby Tower.” The tower was torn down and in its place an essentially symbolic monument, the Powder Gate, was erected. While the tower served as a gunpowder storage center for a while, these days it just kind of chills and lets cars tickle its belly as they drive underneath. Climb to the top for a great view of the city and a small exhibit.
B: Naměstí Republiky. From Old Town Sq., walk east on Celetná until you reach the tower. 70Kč, students 50Kč. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-10pm, Oct 10am-8pm, Nov-Feb 10am-6pm, Mar 10am-8pm.
Saint Nicholas Church (Kostol Svatého Mikuláše)
CHURCH
Staroměstské náměstí
224 190 994
Saint Nicholas Church (not to be confused with the far more impressive church of the same name in Malá Strana) might not be the most famous of the lot, but the “chandelier” hanging in its center might be the city’s coolest. Given as a gift to Prague in 1787 by Tsar Nicholas II, this ornament is an enormous replica of the royal crown worn by Russian tsars. The church was under the control of Benedictine monks for most of its existence, and a plaque on the former Benedictine monastery attached to the building marks the site of Franz Kafka’s birth. Today, you can enjoy classical music concerts here, if that’s the kind of thing you enjoy.
A: Staroměstká. Northwest corner of Old Town Sq. Entry free. Concerts 350-490Kč, students 200-300Kč. Cash only. Open Tu-Sa 10am-4pm, Su noon-4pm. Concerts daily 5 and 8pm.
A joint ticket grants admission to all synagogues (aside from Staronová Synagoga) and the Old Jewish Cemetery. ( Audio tours for the entire circuit can be purchased inside Pinkas Synagogue for 250Kč, students 200Kč. 300Kč, students 200Kč. Open in summer M-F 9am-6pm, Su 9am-6pm; in winter M-F 9am-4:30pm, Su 9am-4:30pm.) There are at least five ticket offices, so if a particular line seems to be advancing at a glacial pace, skip to the next one. (The least busy and fastest location seems to be inside the antique shop at Maiselova 15.) Aside from the Jewish sites, there are some other places worth visiting: Rudolfinum, Klášter Sv. Anežky České, and the Franz Kafka statue.
Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova Synagoga)
SYNAGOGUE
Široká 23/3
222 317 191; www.jewishmuseum.cz
The walls of this otherwise bare 500-year-old synagogue are covered with the names, birth dates, and death dates of almost 80,000 Czech Jews who were murdered at Terezín and other concentration camps during the Holocaust. The names were originally added in the 1950s, but, following the Seven-Day War in 1967, the Communist regime closed the synagogue under the pretext of prolonged renovation and had the walls whitewashed. It was only after Václav Havel was elected president that the names could be painstakingly reinscribed between 1992 and 1996. The second floor contains the haunting drawings and collages done by children during their time in Terezín, all made under the guidance of an imprisoned drawing teacher.
B: Staroměstská. 1 block north of the Metro at the southern border of the Old Jewish Cemetery.
The Makings of a Monster
Derived from Jewish lore, one traditional Prague legend is the mysterious golem, a strange, human-like monster. Sorry, LOTR fans, this golem isn’t a manic 500-year old hobbit searching for the precious ring. Rather, according to legend, rabbis attempted to create golems in order to protect Jews.
As the tale goes, conjuring a golem was not as simple as making morning coffee. The rabbi had to dress in white to show his pureness, and get his hands on soil which no man had ever dug in before, usually from the banks of a river. While kneading the soil with spring water and imagining his creation, he had to meditate, utter complex Hebrew incantations, and say the ancient 42-letter name of God—all without mispronouncing anything, which would result in the speaker’s instant death.
One of the most famous golem stories takes place in Prague. The story goes that Rabbi Loew created the last successful golem during WWII to protect the Jews from persecution—a noble effort, but instead the creature became increasingly powerful and began destroying the city. Rabbi Loew put his monster to sleep, and it is said that he still slumbers in Prague’s Old New Synagogue. Visitors may still worship, but the attic stairs are inaccessible—they probably don’t want anyone getting any bright ideas and waking up the ol’ mud monster.
Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý Židovský Hřbitov)
CEMETERY
U starého hřbitova 243/3a
222 317 191; www.jewishmuseum.cz
This cemetery may remind one of a shark’s mouth—the eroded and broken tombstones jut out at unexpected angles, one over another. Between the 14th and 18th centuries, the graves were dug in layers, and over time the earth settled so that stones from the lower layers were pushed to the surface, forcing many of the newer stones out of position. Rabbi Loew, the supposed creator of the mythical Golem, is buried by the wall opposite the exit. Notice the little stones on the tombstones—traditionally, these are used instead of flowers. Outside the exit is the Ceremonial Hall, a two-floor museum on the history of Jewish burials.
Enter through Pinkas Synagogue. Camera permit 40Kč.
Spanish Synagogue (Španělská Synagoga)
SYNAGOGUE
Vězeňská 141/1
222 317 191; www.jewishmuseum.cz
The Spanish Synagogue is the most richly decorated of the synagogues in Josefov. Built in the Moorish-Byzantine style, the synagogue is covered from floor to ceiling with elaborate geometric patterns in red, green, and gold, and topped off with a cupola. The synagogue houses an interesting exhibit on the history of the Czech Jews from the Jewish Enlightenment onward, chronicling their attempts at full emancipation (before the rule of Joseph II, Jews had to pay special taxes for their “protection,” wear yellow hats and Stars of David, and live in the ghetto). There’s also an impressive set of silver Torah crowns and pointers. The synagogue also hosts classical music concerts throughout the year.
On the corner of Široká and Dušní, close to the statue of Franz Kafka.
Klausen Synagogue (Klausová Synagoga)
SYNAGOGUE
U starého hřbitova 243/3a
222 317 191; www.jewishmuseum.cz
The Klausen Synagogue was originally built in 1573, burned down a while later, rebuilt in 1604, and then reconstructed in the 1880s. The exhibits inside are dedicated to the cultural aspects of Jewish life, with artifacts like Torah pointers, skull caps, menorahs, and velvet valances. Don’t miss the special Halizah shoe on the second floor—according to the Old Testament, a widow had to marry a brother of her dead husband if her marriage was childless. The only way to get out of that obligation was to take this shoe off the brother’s foot in front of witnesses.
Adjacent to the Old Jewish Cemetery.
Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova Synagoga)
SYNAGOGUE
Maiselova 63/10
222 317 191; www.jewishmuseum.cz
Like most old things in Prague, the Maisel Synagogue has been partially destroyed and subsequently rebuilt several times. Today it contains artifacts from the history of Judaism in Bohemia and Moravia up until the Jewish Enlightenment. Some of the more interesting objects include the tombstone of Avigdor Kara as well as the robes of a 16th-century Jewish martyr who was burned at the stake by the Inquisition.
On Maiselova, 1 block south of Široká.
Old-New Synagogue (Staronová Synagoga)
SYNAGOGUE
Maiselova
222 318 664; www.synagogue.cz
This is the oldest operating synagogue in all of Europe and one of the earliest Gothic structures in Prague. The usual explanation for its oxymoronic name is that it was called the “New” synagogue when it was built in 1270, then took its present name when newer synagogues were built. Yet, a rumor persists that the name “Old-New” (Alt-Neu) is a mistranslation of the Hebrew “Al-Tenai,” meaning “on condition,” implying that the stones would be returned when the temple in Jerusalem was rebuilt. There are a few legends attached to the place. First, the remains of Golem are said to be hidden in the synagogue’s attic. Second, the synagogue is supposedly protected from fire by angels (this would account for its longevity). Unfortunately, it doesn’t seem to have been protected from water—a line drawn on a wall inside shows how high the water was during floods in 2002. Inside there’s also a replica of the flag flown by the congregation in 1496, when Ladislaus Jagiellon first allowed the Jews to fly their own city flag. The Old-New Synagogue is still the center of Prague’s Jewish community. Just south of the Old-New synagogue is the Jewish Town Hall, which is not accessible to the public, but whose clock tower has a clock that ticks counter-clockwise.
Between Maiselova and Pařížská, north of the cemetery. Men must cover their heads. Yarmulkes free. Services reserved for practicing members of the Jewish community. 200Kč, students 140Kč. Open Apri-Oct M-F 9:30am-6pm, Su 9:30am-6pm; Nov-Mar M-F 9:30am-5pm, Su 9:30am-5pm.
If a clock turns counterclockwise, is it still, in a sense, going clockwise? This question is posed, if not answered, by a clock on Prague’s Jewish Town Hall, next to the Old New Synagogue. There are two clocks on this building: the higher one’s face has Roman numerals and turns clockwise; the lower’s has Hebrew numerals (the digits are indicated by letters of the Hebrew alphabet) and turns counterclockwise, since Hebrew is read from right to left. But unless you’re used to calculating minutes past hours, it’ll probably be easier to stick to the conventional clock above.
Statue of Franz Kafka
STATUE
Dušní
One of the more original sculptures from among Prague’s lot, the statue portrays Franz Kafka sitting astride an enormous suit. Loosely alluding to Kafka’s early story “Description of a Struggle,” the statue has become a local landmark. For more Kafka-related places, check out the plaque close to St. Nicholas’s Church that marks the building where Kafka was born, the blue house at Golden Lane 22 where Kafka lived for a year, and any souvenir shop, where Kafka lives on as an integral symbol of Prague’s tourism industry.
On the square where Široká and Dušní intersect, close to the Spanish Synagogue.
Galerie Rudolfinum
GALLERY, CONCERT HALL
Alšovo nábřeží 12
227 059 205; www.galerierudolfinum.cz
The Neo-Renaissance Rudolfinum hosts both classical musical concerts (it’s the home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra) and fascinating contemporary art exhibitions. The likes of Damien Hirst and Cindy Sherman have exhibited here in the past, and there’s more to come. Rudolfinum is located at Náměstí Jana Palacha, named after a student who set himself on fire in 1969 in protest of the Soviet occupation of Czechoslovakia. Also notice the statue of Antonín Dvořák, the famous Czech composer who conducted the first concert at Rudolfinum.
B: Staroměstská. It’s the imposing building dominating the square near the Metro. The gallery entrance is on the left side of the building. Ticket 50-190Kč. Cash only. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
Petřín Tower (Petřínská Rozhledna)
TOWER
Petřín Hill
If the Petřín lookout tower seems like a shameless knockoff of the Eiffel Tower, that’s because it is. The Eiffel Tower debuted at the 1889 World’s Fair, and this shorter, fatter cousin popped up two years later at the Czech Jubilee Exposition. It’s at the top of Petřín Hill, and, from the lookout 299 steps up, you can see a 360-degree panorama of the Czech countryside. If you’re lazy and have money, you can pay extra to take the elevator (50Kč). Even if you don’t go up on the tower, be sure to stop in at the free Jára Cimrman museum that’s in the basement. Cimrman was a brilliant inventor, dramatist, composer, philosopher, and self-taught midwife. Oh, also, he didn’t exist. Invented by two playwrights, Cimrman’s life is the biggest inside joke of Czech culture. The objects in the museum might not strike foreigners as outrageously funny, but approach them with an open mind, and you’ll learn something about the Czech sense of humor.
Walk up Petřín hill or take the funicular from Újezd (26Kč). After getting off the funicular, turn right and continue along the wall until you see the tower. There’s also a path that leads here from Strahov Monastery. 100Kč, students 50Kč. Lift 50Kč. Museum free. Cash only. Open daily 10am-10pm.
Petřín Area
OBSERVATORY, MAZE, MONUMENT
Petřín Hill
The hilltop has a number of sites worth checking out. Housed in a tiny château near the tower, the mirror labyrinth (built for the 1891 Jubilee Exposition) must have been all the rage back in the day, but it’s a little underwhelming in our cynical age. The gardens have hundreds of varieties of roses and merit a brief stroll. The observatory behind the funicular station houses three telescopes and temporary exhibits on space exploration. On your way down, check out the medieval Hunger Wall, the perpendicular wall going from the base to the top of the hill. Built by Charles IV, it could just have easily been named “useless public project” (it is said Charles had it built to give work to the city’s poor). When you get back down, stop by the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, a haunting monument near the Újezd tram station.
A: Malostranská. Walk southwest toward the hill. Or, take the funicular from Újezd. The alpine tram runs daily every 10-15min. 9am-11:30pm and accepts standard 26Kč public transportation tickets. Observatory 55Kč, students 40Kč. Mirror labyrinth 70Kč, students 50Kč. Cash only. Observatory open Apr-Aug Tu-F 2-7pm and 9-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-7pm and 9-11pm; shorter hours in winter. Mirror labyrinth open daily 10am-10pm.
Church of Saint Nicholas
CHURCH
Malostranské náměstí 1
257 534 215; www.psalterium.cz
If you’ve spent any time in Europe, you’ve likely seen a church or two (or 50) by now. But this ain’t no ordinary house of the Lord. Boldly colored celestial scenes play out on an enormous fresco that spans the length of the towering ceiling. Floating above it all, like the magical cherry on this holy sundae, sits the behemoth dome. Built by a father-son team in the 17th century, St. Nicholas is considered to be the most beautiful example of High Baroque architecture in Central Europe and was influential in defining the style throughout the continent. Don’t forget to climb upstairs and see the 19th-century graffiti on the wooden handrail.
A: Malostranská. Follow Letenská to Malostranské náměstí. 70Kč, students 35Kč. Free entry for prayer daily 8:30-9am. Cash only. Open daily Apr-Oct 9am-4:45pm; Nov-Mar 9am-3:45pm.
John Lennon Wall
MONUMENT
Velkopřevorské náměstí
Western songs were banned during the Communist years, so when someone painted John Lennon’s face on this wall after the iconic singer was shot in 1980, it was an act of defiance against the regime. Since then, the wall has been an ever-changing community work of art—graffiti is layered over more graffiti, almost all celebrating peace, freedom, and other things Mr. Lennon stands for. The original drawing is long gone, but there will always be at least one Lennon face for you to pose with. Better yet, draw your own.
From the Charles Bridge, take a left on Lázeňská soon after the bridge ends. Stay on it as it curves around into Velkopřevorské náměstí. Free. Open 24hr.
CHURCH
Karmelitská 14
237 532 018
This place might seem insigificant when you first enter, but there’s more to it than meets the eye. On the right side, notice the wax figurine of the infant Jesus, which is said to have protected the church during the 30 Years’ War and which supposedly possesses healing powers. This figurine is known internationally, and a small museum behind the altar displays costumes made for the figurine by friends from around the world, including Empress Maria Theresa. Continue wandering in the area near the souvenir shop, and you’ll discover a startling collection of African wood sculptures, brought back from the Carmelite Order’s missions. Every week, there are masses in five languages.
A: Malostranská. Follow Letenská through Malostranské náměstí and continue south onto Karmelitská. The church will be on the right. Free. Church open daily 8:30am-7pm. Museum open M-Sa 9:30am-5:30pm, Su 1-6pm. English mass Th 5pm, Su noon.
Wallenstein Palace and Gardens
PALACE
Valdštejnské náměstí 4
257 075 707; www.senat.cz
Originally built in 1626 as a castle for nobleman Albrecht Wallenstein, this immaculate compound now serves as the seat of the Czech Senate. Keep your eyes peeled for live peacocks wandering among the hedge rows and reflecting pools. And don’t worry: that albino peacock isn’t possessed by Satan, he was just born that way. Some sad-looking owls chill in the aviary next to the “stalactite wall,” where a disorienting array of concrete affects the interior of a cavern. If the statues of Hercules killing all manner of mythical beasts aren’t enough to impress you, come back on the weekends, when the castle’s interior is open to tourists.
A: Malostranská. Free. Gardens open June-Sept M-F 7:30am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-7pm; Oct M-F 7:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm; Apr-May M-F 7:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm. Palace open Sa-Su 10am-5pm.
Franz Kafka Museum
MUSEUM
Cihelná 2b
221 451 400; www.kafkamuseum.cz
In an attempt to be as disorienting as Kafka’s writing, this museum goes crazy with shadowy video projections, sounds of dripping water, and dramatic lighting. There are spiderweb tunnels, rooms of mirrors, and, to be fair, at least one cool staircase. We can’t decide whether the whole thing is kitschy or powerful—we’ll leave it up to you to judge. The actual exhibit is a bit less dramatic; it’s mostly facsimiles of Kafka’s written documents and some old photographs. If you want to fuel the Kafka souvenir industry even more, buy a map that marks 34 places in Prague that have something to do with the man—seems like Mr. K was all over the place. Note David Èerný’s sculpture of pissing statues near the entrance to the museum. Recognize the shape of that pool? It’s the Czech Republic.
A: Malostranská. Go down Klárov along the river, veering left at the fork between U Lužické Semináře and Cihelná. The museum is on the left. 180Kč, students 120Kč. Open daily 10am-6pm.
Saint Nicholas Tower
TOWER
Malostranské náměstí 29
724 323 375; www.abl.cz
During Communist rule, the secret police used the belfry of this tower to spy on Western diplomats and targeted Czechs. Today, said spy work is the subject of a mildly interesting exhibit, which includes old newspaper clippings (seems like the secret police loved soccer) and the TV that helped the agents pass time. (Their office was 299 steps up, so they probably didn’t have much fun otherwise.) The climb up is lined by an exhibit on the tower, which was used as a fire tower before it burned down. In the days of yore, the bell was rung on cloudy days—the sound was believed to prevent rain.
A: Malostranská. Follow Letenská to Malostranské náměstí. The tower entrance is at the back of the church. 100Kč, students 50Kč. Cash only. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-10pm; Oct 10am-8pm; Nov-Feb 10am-6pm; Mar 10am-8pm.
Museum Kampa
MUSEUM
U Sovových mlýnů 2
257 286 147; www.museumkampa.cz
The cost of admission may be a bit high, but modern art enthusiasts should not miss this riverside museum. The collection focuses on sculptures and paintings by Central European artists, most of whom were persecuted under Communism. At the end, climb the stairs to the observation deck, which has a great view over the Vltava (and feels as though it’s about to keel over into it).
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, walk south along the river to Kampa Island. The museum is on the east side of the island at the edge of the river. Look for a giant chair or 3 enormous black babies. 280Kč, students 140Kč. Open daily 10am-6pm.
Around Prague Castle
The following sights are only a small sampling of what the castle complex has to offer. Saint George’s Basilica dates back to 920 CE and is also part of a short tour of the area. Next door, Saint George’s Convent now functions as a museum of 19th-century Bohemian art and sculpture. The Powder Tower houses a small exhibit on the castle guards. Admission to the latter two comes with the long tour ticket.
Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad)
CASTLE
224 372 423; www.hrad.cz
One of the largest castles in the world, Prague Castle has been the seat of the Bohemian government since its construction over a millennium ago. It was home to such legendary kings as Charles IV and Rudolph II as well as the first Czechoslovak president, Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk. During WWII, Reinhard Heydrich, the Nazi-appointed protector of the city and notorious “Butcher of Prague,” used the castle as his headquarters. It is said that whoever unlawfully wore the crown jewels would die within a year—Heydrich supposedly wore the jewels and, as predicted, was assassinated less than a year later. Arrive on the hour to catch the changing of the guard—the ceremony at noon also includes fanfare. Bonus points: make one of the guards on duty move without breaking the law. We can’t seem to do it, but there must be a way.
Tram 22: Pražský hrad. From the stop, go down U Prašného Mostu past the Royal Gardens and into the Second Courtyard. Alternatively, hike up Nerudova. Ticket office and info center located opposite St. Vitus Cathedral, inside the castle walls. “Short tour” covers admission to everything important, “long tour” includes other—rather uninteresting—sights. These are not guided tours. Tickets are valid for 2 consecutive days. Short tour 250Kč, students 125Kč. Long tour 350Kč, students 175 Kč. Ticket office and historical monuments open daily Apr-Oct 9am-5pm; Nov-Mar 9am-4pm. Castle grounds open daily Apr-Oct 5am-midnight; Nov-Mar 6am-11pm.
Saint Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála sv. Víta)
CHURCH
Saint Vitus Cathedral is an architectural masterpiece, complete with three magnificent towers and more flying buttresses than it knows what to do with (no wonder it took almost 600 years to complete). Part of the cathedral is accessible without a ticket, but the inner part is cordoned off for ticket holders. Don’t miss the Wenceslas Chapel (Svatováclavská kaple), which has walls lined with precious stones and paintings. Despite their old look, the window mosaics were all made in the 1940s, and some even contain sponsorship messages (including those for an insurance company). Some of the most important Czech kings are buried here, including Charles IV (plus his four wives), Jiří z Poděbrad, and Wenceslas IV. The silver tomb next to the altar belongs to St. John Nepomuk, who supposedly had his tongue torn out and was then thrown off the Charles Bridge because he refused to tell Wenceslas IV what his wife had confessed. The Bohemian crown jewels are kept in a room with seven locks, the keys to which are kept in the hands of seven different Czech leaders, both secular and religious. There’s also a reliquary (not accessible to the public) that contains the skulls of various saints and some brain matter of John Nepomuk. For a great view, climb the 287 steps of the Great South Tower.
Enter the Great South Tower from outside the cathedral. Tower 150Kč.
Old Royal Palace (Starý královský palác)
PALACE
The Old Royal Palace, to the right of the cathedral, is one of the few Czech castles where visitors can wander largely unattended—probably because it’s mostly empty. The lengthy Vladislav Hall is the largest Gothic hall in the Czech Republic; it once hosted coronations and indoor jousting competitions. Upstairs is the Chancellery of Bohemia, in which a Protestant assembly found two Catholic governors guilty of religious persecution and threw them out the window in the Second Defenestration of Prague in 1618.
Golden Lane and Dalibor Tower
STREET, TOWER
The authorities’ decision to make the formerly free Golden Lane accessible only with a paid ticket caused an uproar among Czech citizens a few years ago. This legendary street with hobbit-size houses once belonged to the castle’s artillerymen and artisans. Franz Kafka spent a year living in the blue house (#22); today it’s a disappointing gift shop. Other highlights include the former house of a psychic (killed by the Gestapo for predicting “an early end to the war”) and a few houses showcasing traditional crafts. At the end of the street you’ll come to the base of Dalibor Tower, a former prison whose most famous resident was the knight Dalibor. Dalibor is the subject of the imprecise Czech adage “Necessity taught Dalibor how to play the fiddle”—indeed, the only “fiddle” that Dalibor encountered in the prison was the torture instrument designed to get prisoners to confess, by stretching them like horsehair on a fiddle bow. The tower exhibits a variety of torture and execution implements, including cages, “Spanish boots” (designed to crush legs and feet), and an executioner’s axe.
To the right of the Basilica, follow Jiřská halfway down and take a left on Zlatá ulièka, or “Golden Lane.”
Prague is all fairy-tale charm by day, but at night (especially with your beer goggles on), the city transforms into a land of demons, ghosts, and nagging ghost wives. Learn which nooks and crannies to avoid (or perhaps seek out) so you don’t accidentally come across any ghouls, witches, or ghosts.
• OLD TOWN SQUARE. Look for the 27 crosses on the ground commemorating the rebel leaders executed in Prague in 1621 as part of the 30 Years’ War. The rebels are said to haunt the square, coming out annually to check that all is well with the astronomical clock.
• LILI OVÁ STREET. If you are on Liliová St. between midnight and 1am, strain your ears to block out the sounds of clanking beer mugs and rowdy Czech drinking songs from the surrounding taverns and you might just hear the pleas of the horse rider of Templar. Only the brave attempt to release him from his ghostly prison. Only the bravest attempt to look him in the eye, as he holds his head casually at his side in a saddle bag.
• PRAGUE CASTLE. If you just can’t get enough of family bickering, head to the royal crypt of Prague Castle, where the four wives of Emperor Charles IV are buried. Late at night, it is said they rise from their graves to quibble over Charles’ body, who evidently remains a studmuffin, even at the age of 700.
• THE VLTAVA. The Vltava is thought to be inhabited by water nymphs who appear in the form of tiny men with coats and pipes. They pop up at night to offer advice to passersby, but don’t be fooled by their impish cuteness: these nymphs will trick you into crashing your boat and sinking to the murky depths.
Royal Summer Palace and Royal Gardens
PALACE, GARDENS
The Italian-designed palace was built in the 16th century to provide entertainment for royals. Near the summer palace, the Singing Fountain uses a vibrating bronze plate to create its rhythmic, enchanting sound, though you have to squat down awkwardly to actually hear it. The surrounding Royal Gardens contain dozens of species of trees and shrubbery and make for a relaxing stroll. The garden is also home to an assortment of birds of prey that a falconer displays daily, usually between noon and 5pm.
The gardens are located outside the castle complex. Exit through the 2nd courtyard, walk across the moat, and turn right. Free. Open daily June-July 10am-9pm; Aug 10am-8pm; Sept 10am-7pm; Oct 10am-6pm; Apr 10am-6pm; May 10am-7pm.
Other Sights
Strahov Monastery (Strahovský klášter)
MONASTERY
Strahovské nádvoří 1
233 107 711; www.strahovskyklaster.cz
There are two ticketed parts of the monastery: the gallery and the library. We like the library more—it contains thousands of volumes of philosophical, astronomical, mathematical, and historical knowledge, though your admission only entitles you to look from behind a barrier. Even more interesting is the library’s antechamber, home to an 18th-century cabinet of curiosities, the predecessor of the modern museum. There you’ll find a dried hammerhead shark, two elephant trunks (or dried whale penises, depending on whom you ask), a crocodile, a narwhal tusk (originally people believed this came from a unicorn), a Tatar bow, Hussite weaponry, bucketloads of boring shells, and the grotesque remains of a dodo bird. Compared to this, the gallery section may seem a bit boring, with its exhibit related to the history of Strahov Monastery and another floor dedicated to Czech paintings from between the 14th and 19th centuries. The remains of St. Norbert can be seen here in a glass coffin.
Tram 22: Pohořelec. From the tram, walk south and up the street, then take a sharp left onto Strahovské nádvoří. Library 80Kč, students 50Kč. Gallery 80Kč, students 40Kč. Photo or video permit 100Kč. Cash only. Library open daily 9am-noon and 1-5pm. Gallery open daily 9am noon and 12:30-5pm.
Loreta
CHAPEL
Loretánské náměsti 7
220 516 740; www.loreta.cz
Loreta is one of the most important Christian sites in the Czech Republic and is the traditional starting point of pilgrimages. The central Santa Casa contains a statue of the Lady of Loreta, holding what is purported to be a piece of Mary’s house at Bethlehem. Perhaps the most impressive part is the collection of treasures on the second floor, which includes diamond and pearl mitres, coral-decorated bowls, jewel-encrusted religious texts, and some astonishing monstrances.
Tram 22: Pohořelec. From the tram stop, walk south, turn left on Pohořelec, then left on Loretánské náměsti. 110Kč, students 90Kč. Photo permit 100Kč. Audio tour 150Kč. Cash only. Open daily in summer 9am-12:15pm and 1-5pm; in winter 9am-12:15pm and 1-4pm.
Jan Žižka Statue and Vítkov Hill
MONUMENT, MUSEUM
U Památniku 1900
224 497 111; www.nm.cz
On top of the hill, you’ll find the statue of Jan Žižka, the one eyed Hussite general who gave Žižkov its name. Appropriate to Žižka’s stellar reputation (he was a brilliant tactician who supposedly never lost a battle), the statue is the largest equestrian statue in the world. The monument also honors those who fell in WWI and WWII—behind the statue you can find a hall dedicated to the memory of “the unknown soldier” (which is actually two soldiers who died in 1917 and 1944). After 1948, the monument became an important meeting place for the Communist Party and also the mausoleum of Klement Gottwald, the first Czechoslovak socialist president. A ticket to the museum allows you to see the presidential salon, mosaics by Max Švabinský, the view from the roof, and the eerie underground laboratory where the Communist leader’s preserved body was kept for seven years before it started to go black and had to be cremated. On your way down from the monument, stop by the Army Museum, which features artifacts from WWII as well as a stuffed Rottweiler.
Tram 5, 9, or 26: Husinecká. From the tram, follow Husinecká until you reach the square, then make a left at Orebitská, which will merge into Husitská. Walk down Husitská, then make a sharp right and climb the hill. 110Kč, students 60Kč. Camera 80Kč. Army Museum free. Cash only. Open W-Su 10am-6pm. Army Museum open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
Žižkov Television Tower
TOWER
Mahlerovy sady 1
724 251 286; www.praguerocket.com
From a distance, the Žižkov TV Tower looks like a Soviet launch missile that never left Earth. The tower was initially met with some hostility during its construction in the mid-1980s, in part because some feared that the tower would hurt infants living around the area with its radio transmissions. After more than 20 years, the tower remains an eyesore, but it’s become one of Prague’s best-known landmarks. In 2000, controversial Czech artist David Èerný cast nine figures of babies—perhaps in reference to that earlier paranoia—and attached them to the tower, where they’ve been ever since. The tower hosts a restaurant and three observation decks, allowing for impressive views of the city (don’t worry, there’s an elevator). In the square next to the tower, there’s a historic Jewish cemetery that was partly destroyed by the tower’s construction.
A: Jiřího z Poděbrad. From the Metro, cross diagonally through the park and then take Milešovská toward the tower. 120Kč, students 90Kč. Cemetery 60Kč. Cash only. Observation deck open daily 10am-10pm. Cemetery open M and W 11am-3pm, F 9am-1pm.
Church of Saint Procopius
CHURCH
Èajkovského 36
775 609 952
In 1881, Žižkov became an independent city. Amid jubilation over their newfound autonomy, the residents of Žižkov realized that they did not have a Catholic place of worship big enough to accommodate the population of the new city. This neo-Gothic church was completed 13 years later.
Trams 5, 9, or 26, Lipanská. Head west 2 blocks on Seifertova.
Aside from Vyšehrad, Vinohrady is also home to some of Prague’s nicer parks and greenery. Riegrovy sady is a hilly park north of Náměstí Míru with grassy slopes from which you can see the Castle and much of Prague. Do as the young locals do: buy a plastic cup of beer from one of the nearby beer gardens, sit on the grass, and take in the view. The vine-covered Havlíčkovy sady, to the southeast of Náměstí Míru, is a posher setting: visit its wine bar, Viniční Altán, where you can sample many varieties of wine. (www.vinicni-altan.cz Wine from 30Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm.)
Vyšehrad
MONUMENT
V Pevnosti 5B
241 410 348; www.praha-vysehrad.cz
Overlooking the beautiful Vltava, Vyšehrad served as the royal residence of Czech kings until 1140, when they moved to Hradèany. It was supposedly founded by Princess Libuše, who foresaw the greatness of Prague before it became, well, great. Today, the complex contains a number of interesting sites. There’s the towering Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, whose two spires can be seen from much of Prague. Next to the church is the beautiful Vyšehrad cemetery, where some of the most prominent Czech artists—writers, painters, poets—are buried. Among those in attendance are writer Karel Èapek (who coined the term “robot”), painter Alphonse Mucha (the pioneer of Art Nouveau), and composer Antonín Dvořák. There’s also a snoozefest of an archeological exhibition in the Gothic Cellar, while the Vyšehrad Gallery exhibits work by Czech painters. If you’re interested in seeing six of the statues that were originally part of the Charles Bridge, you can go on a short guided tour of casemates and Gorlice. Finally, make sure you check out the view of the city from Vyšehrad’s fortifications—it’s one of the best in Prague.
C: Vyšehrad. From the Metro, head toward “Kongresové Centrum” and walk across this conference complex, keeping right. At the end turn right and head down a staircase, then turn left and cross a parking lot. To your right you’ll see a cobblestone road that leads to Vyšehrad. Guided tours of the casemate leave every hr. 10am-5pm. Park admission free. English map and guide 35Kč. Church of St. Peter and St. Paul 30Kč. Casemate 50Kč. Vyšehrad gallery 20Kč. Gothic cellar 50Kč. Cash only. Exhibitions open daily Nov-Mar 9:30am-5pm; Apr-Oct 9:30am-6pm. St. Peter and St. Paul open Tu-Th 9am-noon and 1-5pm, F 9am-noon.
DOX
MUSEUM
Poupětova 1
774 145 434; www.doxprague.org
Along with NOD (an art space affiliated with the Roxy club in Staré Město), DOX is at the leading edge of Prague’s contemporary art scene. With exhibits of both domestic and international artists, DOX houses up to eight exhibitions at a time. For about a year, it was home to David Èerný’s controversial Entropa, which depicted each member country of the EU as a stereotype of itself (ire came mostly from Bulgaria, shown as a squatting toilet). We can’t predict what show will be up when you visit, but it’s sure to be crazy interesting.
C: Nádraží Holešovice. Take tram 5 or 12 or walk along the tram tracks to Ortenovo náměstí. From there, continue along the tracks on Komunardù and take the 1st right. DOX is to the right. 180Kč; students 90Kč; art history, art, design, or architecture students 40Kč. Open M 10am-6pm, W-F 11am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.
Letná Park (Letenské Sady)
PARK
A stroll through this sprawling, wooded park with unparalleled views of Vltava will make your day. Don’t miss the gigantic Metronome that overlooks the city—it was installed in 1991, on the spot where a statue of Joseph Stalin once stood. Today the area is full of skaters doing things their moms probably wouldn’t approve of. Toward the east side of the park you can find a sometimes-functioning carousel, the oldest in Europe. There are also a few cheap beer gardens where you can enjoy a cold one while looking over Prague’s rooftops. Finally, there’s the famous Hanavský Pavilon (Letenské sady 173 233 323 641; www.hanavskypavilon.cz Small beer 60Kč.), an expensive restaurant in a beautiful Art Nouveau château that was constructed for the Jubilee Exhibition in 1891.
B: Hradèanská. From the station, walk to the other side of the building, and head southeast. You’ll run into the enormous park. Or take Metro C to Vltavská and head west.
Veletržní Palác / National Gallery (Národní Galerie)
MUSEUM
Dukelských hrdinů 47
224 301 111; www.ngprague.cz
One of the coolest National Galleries (the others house mostly older art), Veletržní Palác is Prague’s MoMA: there are five enormous floors packed with modern art, both Czech and international. The permanent collection contains the likes of Gustav Klimt, Edvard Munch, Vincent van Gogh, Pablo Picasso, Alfons Mucha, and many more.
C: Nádraží Holešovice. From the station take tram 12, 14, or 17 or walk along the tram tracks (passing the Exhibition Ground) for 2 stops, to Veletržní. The museum is at the tram stop. 250Kč, students 120Kč. Audio tour 30Kč. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
Prague Exhibition Ground
LANDMARK
Unless there’s a big concert or an exhibition going on, visiting this place feels like going to an abandoned amusement park. It was built for the 1891 Jubilee Exhibition and still contains some of the “modern” wonders exhibited there. There’s the ghostly Art Nouveau Exhibition Palace, whose left wing burned down some years ago and was replaced by a temporary replica. Behind the palace is the reconstructed Křížiková Fontána (723 665 694; www.krizikovafontana.cz Ticket counter open daily 7:15-10:15pm, performances usually start at 8pm.), a fountain that combines light shows with popular tunes ranging from opera to Metallica. In front of the palace, the Lapidary of National Museum ( 50Kč. Open W 10am-4pm, Th-Su noon-6pm.) houses some of the original statues from the Charles Bridge, along with other historical exhibits. Officially, the Marold’s Panorama ($25Kč. Open Tu-F 1-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm.) is the biggest panoramic painting in Central Europe, but unofficially it looks like the interior of some bird pavilion in a zoo. East of the Exhibition Ground, Stromovka, a bigger park than Letenské sady, is great for some unstructured lolling around.
C: Nádraží Holešovice. From the Metro, take tram 5, 12, 14, or 17 or walk along the tracks to the next stop, Výstaviště.
Prague Zoo
ZOO
U Trojského Zámku 3
296 112 111; www.zoopraha.cz
Looking at exotic animals might not seem like the thing to do in Prague, but, in fact, Prague’s leafy zoo is a popular refuge for many locals. Among the zoo’s highlights are the critically endangered Przewalski’s horse and Komodo 
dragons. Before you enter, check out the “walk of fame” near the entrance—star-shaped tiles contain footprints of rhinos, chimps, tigers, and other tenants.
C: Nádraží Holešovice. From the Metro, take bus #112. The zoo is a 10min. ride. 150Kč, students 100Kč. Open daily Jun-Aug 9am-7pm; Sept-Oct 9am-6pm; Nov-Jan 9am-4pm; Feb-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-May 9am-6pm.
The Bába Ruin (Zřícenina Bába)
RUIN
Nad Paťankou
Bába looks like a significant ruin, but it isn’t. It’s the remnant of an 18th-century wine press (or a chapel, nobody knows for sure) that was renovated to look like a castle ruin in 1858. Nevertheless, the hill where it’s located offers a great view of the Vltava and Dejvice, which is perhaps the reason for Bába’s popularity as a wedding site. The Bába Ruin remains undiscovered by tourists, so if you’re done with all the traditional sightseeing, it might make for a short and refreshing hike.
A: Dejvická. There are many ways to get here. On foot, it’s 3km north from the Dejvice roundabout. Public transport can take you closer—buses #116 and #160 leave from the roundabout (get off at Ve Struhách, and then follow Pod Paťankou, Paťanka, and Nad Paťankou up the hill; the whole trip is about 2km), while bus #131 leaves from Hradèanská and stops much closer to the ruin. From the bus stop, walk down the stairs and continue to the end of Nad Paťankou.
Divoká Šárka
PARK
This beautiful nature reserve is where Prague’s locals take a break from people like you. Spread over some 25 hectares, it’s the largest green area in the city, occupying the valley of the Šárka river. The reserve boasts an abundance of forest paths, grassy fields, steep hills, and a swimming pool (603 723 501; www.koupaliste-sarka.webnode.cz), which is 10min. from the tram stop by foot.
Take trams 8 or 36 to the final stop, Divoká Šárka, which is about 5km west of the Dejvice roundabout. Pool 60Kč. Open in summer daily 10am-6pm.
MeetFactory
GALLERY
Ke Sklárně 15
251 551 796; www.meetfactory.cz
If you enjoyed any of David Èerný’s works around Prague (Žižkov babies, Lucerna horse, pissing statues at Kafka Museum), you might be interested in visiting his pet project, Meet-Factory. Founded in 2001 as a space for cultural dialogue, this converted glass factory hosts all kinds of events, from concerts to exhibitions to film screenings. It’s a bit out of the way, down below the Smíchov train station, but it’s just ’cause it’s alt.
B: Anděl. From the Metro, take tram 12, 14, or 20 5 stops to Lihovar. Continue walking south along the tram tracks and cross the bridge over the railroad tracks. Turn right and continue until you reach MeetFactory. Exhibits free. Theater 150Kč, students 100Kč. Film screenings 60Kč, in summer free. Concert tickets vary. Cash only. Hours depend on events; generally open M-F 1-8pm, Sa-Su 3-8pm.
Staropramen Brewery
BREWERY
Nádražní 84
257 191 111; www.pivovary-staropramen.cz
Staropramen is the second largest beer producer in the Czech Republic and this brewery, established in 1868, churns out hundreds of thousands bottles every day. The tour, which includes a beer tasting, guides you through a few of the giant copper vats that process malt and introduces visitors to the brewing process.
B: Anděl. Exit the Metro station and take a right. The brewery is a few blocks down Nádražní on the left. Tour and tasting 199Kč. Cash only. At the time of writing, the tours were being re-designed and put on hold, but they should be back up in 2012.
Let There Be Beer
When they say that beer is sacred to the Czech people, they mean it almost literally. The first documented beer in the Czech Republic was brewed by the Benedictine monks in the Brevnov Monastery in the year 993 CE (they may have been preparing kegs for a huge millennium rager). The beer was fermented in huge caves underneath the monastery and then served to those notoriously fun-loving monk bros in the main abbey. The Czech people clearly liked the taste, and since 993 CE beer has evolved to be the much loved drink of the entire country. To this day, many monasteries in the Czech Republic brew their own ale; one popular lager, Klaster, translates to “monastery.” It seems God may be on this liquid’s side.
MUSEUM
Mozartova 69
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart once lived in this villa, and it was here that he finished writing his famous opera, Don Giovanni. The exhibition inside is small and rather boring—you’ll probably learn more about the ownership struggles that have plagued this little house for decades than about Mozart himself. Here’s the shortened version: during the early years of Communism, the state took the house from its original owner (Mozartova Obec), and didn’t return it until 2009. But the house was empty when it was returned—the original exhibits were taken to the National Museum in Malá Strana, which is why Bertramka now exhibits mostly borrowed artifacts.
B: Anděl. Exit the Metro station and turn left. Then take the 1st left onto Plzeňská. Continue past the overpass and take the 1st left onto Mozartova. Bertramka is up a small hill at the end of Mozartova. 50Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10am-6pm.