Czech food tends to be simple, hearty, and meat-heavy. Ironically, the most iconic Czech meal is the fried cheese (hermelín or eidam), which rose to prominence thanks to Communism, when meat was in short supply. Among other staples are pork knee, goulash with dumplings, and schnitzel (basically a chicken fried steak). Consistent deliciousness comes at the price of variety. Most restaurants share practically the same menu; after a while you’ll probably be looking to diversify. American and Mexican food is common, especially in bars and expat restaurants, while Chinese and Thai restaurants are also pretty easy to come by. The cheapest way to eat in Prague is to buy your own groceries. For groceries, head to chain supermarkets (Albert, Billa, Tesco) or small, usually Vietnamese-run corner stores.
No explanation of Czech cuisine is complete without a description of beer, the only liquid substance Czechs seem to consume. Czechs drink beer with every meal, and in restaurants, it’s cheaper than non-alcoholic beverages (including water). There’s a whole army of dishes that are eaten mainly with beer, including pickled sausages, cheese, or cabbage; “head cheese” (meat in aspic); and deep-fried bread. If you need a break from beer, try Kofola, the Communist answer to Coca Cola.
The best deals in town are the daily lunch menus, which are usually served between 11am-3pm, and cost somewhere between 80-110Kč. The menus are often in Czech, but since they serve the same dishes in most Czech restaurants, it shouldn’t be hard to learn the words for the basic dishes. The locals eat small breakfasts, usually just some cheese and bread, but the abundance of tourists has made English and American breakfasts a standard option. Dinner with a mug of beer should come in at below 200Kč, though some items (steaks, pork knees) will generally cost you more.
In addition to restaurants, Prague boasts hundreds of cafebars, small atmospheric establishments that serve double duty as cafes during the day and bars at night. They usually have extensive coffee options as well as a full bar and a small food menu.
Though the food you’ll find in Prague’s restaurants is delicious, there may be cheaper deliciousness awaiting you just out the door. Street food in Prague mostly consists of sausage, which comes with mustard on dark bread and sometimes a beer. If you ever get tired of sausage, head for the grocery store. Bring your own bag to avoid paying for one at supermarket chains like Albert or Billa, or check the little Vietnamese corner stores you’ll find in every neighborhood.
The food in Nové Město is generally more affordable than in the Old Town to the north. The best place to buy groceries is Tesco on Národní Třída.
Potrefená Husa
CZECH $$
Resslova 1
224 918 691; www.staropramen.cz/husa
Launched by the Staropramen brewery to “improve the beer culture in Czech Republic” (which is kind of like somebody aiming to improve the cocaine culture in Colombia), Potrefená Husa is a classy chain restaurant where locals come if they want an above-average meal. The barbecued ribs (185Kč) are an unforgettable experience, especially when paired with a garlic baguette. From the designer flourishes that adorn the brick cellar to the music on the stereo to the food itself, everything is slightly more interesting here than at a typical Czech restaurant.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head down Resslova, toward the river. The restaurant will be on the right. 
Entrees 145-285Kč. Desserts 35-89Kč. Beer 25-37Kč. 
Open M-W 11am-midnight, Th-Sa 11am-1am, Su 11am-11pm.
Libeřské Lahůdky
BAKERY $
Vodičkova 9
222 540 828; www.liberskelahudky.cz
With its amazing variety of small sandwiches, cakes, cold salads, baguettes, donuts, and more, Libeřské Lahùdky is the perfect place to get your breakfast or midday snack. The chlebíèky (open-faced sandwiches) are artistic creations that come in many variations, all at surprisingly low prices (16-19Kč). If you’re unsure about which one of the traditional Czech cakes you’d like, there are also bite-sized versions (8Kč) that allow you to make an informed decision. There’s no seating, but you can eat your food standing at the counters or take it with you to the streets.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, head north past the New Town Hall, staying right on Vodičkova when it forks. The restaurant is on the left. Baguettes 35-45Kč. Cakes 12-36Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 7am-7pm, Sa-Su 8am-6pm.
Restaurace V Cípu
CZECH $$
V Cípu
607 177 107; www.restauracevcipu.cz
Even though it’s right in the center of the city, this little restaurant remains a secret to most foreigners. With wooden benches and some rustic decorations, V Cípu feels unpretentious and inviting. Locals come here for cheap Czech classics and for Zlatopramen tank beer, which you can’t get anywhere else in the country. Try the excellent fried cheese (75-80Kč) or the duck (94Kč).
A or B: Můstek. From the Metro, walk northeast on Na Příkopě and take the 1st right onto Panská. Take the 1st right onto V Cípu, opposite the Alfons Mucha Museum. Meat entrees 118-153Kč. Lunch menu 73-94Kč. Beer 18-32Kč. Open M-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 11am-11pm.
Globe Café
AMERICAN $$
Pštrossova 6
224 934 203; www.globebookstore.cz
Part bookstore, part cafe, part cultural center, Globe is one of the best-known American outposts in Prague. Even though the American expat community has dwindled considerably in recent years and the clientele is starting to lean toward locals, Globe still offers some cultural comfort: up to 10,000 English-language books, refillable drip coffee (45Kč), and a menu of burgers, sandwiches, and other Western food. Cultural events (free film screenings, author readings, live music) take place almost every night, and, during happy hour (daily 5-7pm), chicken wings go for 7Kč a piece.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, take Resslova toward the river and then turn right on Na Zderaze, which becomes Pštrossova; the cafe is on the right. Sandwiches and burgers 140-180Kč. Desserts 65-80Kč. Beer 20-40Kč. Internet access 60Kč per hr. Open M-Th 9:30am-midnight, F-Sa 9:30am-1am (or later), Su 9:30am-midnight. Bookstore open daily 9:30am-11pm.
Pizzeria Kmotra
PIZZA $$
V Jirchářích 12
224 934 100; www.kmotra.cz
Kmotra (“the godmother”) is known for its quality pizza and low prices. Supposedly the oldest pizzeria in Prague, Kmotra sports a cozy downstairs cellar with floating lamps and wooden tables. There are 36 kinds of pizza, all of which come with thin crusts and generous toppings. If you’re after slightly less traditional toppings, try Špenátová II, which is topped with spinach, bacon, and a sizzling egg.
B: Národní třída. From the Metro, head down Ostrovní towards the river. Take the 2nd left at Voršilská. Pizzas 109-155Kč. Pasta 89-150Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Czech These Out
Looking for a quick snack before heading to one of Prague’s historic sites or a night on the town? Don’t overlook this delectable street fare:
• Trdelník Rolled Pastries: These pastries are sold fresh all over Prague in Staré Město and Malá Strana. They’re hot, fluffy, and sprinkled with sugar—perfect for those seeking a sugar high.
• svařené víno: This cold-weather beverage is made from red wine mixed with mulling spices. Sweeten it with sugar or honey.
• sausages: You’ll find plenty of sausage carts in areas like Wenceslas Sq. Much like the hot dog, an American favorite, these snacks are filling and easy to take on-the-go.
• fried cheese sandwich: This delicious treat may look like a chickwich, but those are actually thick slices of cheese that have been breaded and fried in that bun. The sandwich is usually topped with mayonnaise.
CAFE $$
Smetanovo nábřeží 2
224 218 493; www.cafeslavia.cz
Perhaps the best-known cafe in all of Prague, Slavia was historically the haunt of artists, intellectuals, and dissidents, including Václav Havel. Today it’s a bustling tourist attraction, but completely worth the slightly above-average prices. In a prime people-watching and Vltava-gazing setting, Slavia sends you back in time with nightly piano music, an Art Deco interior, and waiters in bowties. And the biggest surprise? The food is actually great. Try something from the seasonal menus built around a single ingredient (asparagus, strawberries, etc.).
B: Národní třída. From the Metro, walk north on Spálená and then turn left on Národní. The restaurant is at the end of the street, across from the National Theater. Czech dishes 139-189Kč. Desserts 45-109Kč. Coffee 39-70Kč. Open M-F 8am-midnight, Sa-Su 9am-midnight.
Mamacoffee
COFFEE $
Vodičkova 6
773 337 309; www.mamacoffee.cz
Mamacoffee is the best coffee place in Prague. In fact, if you’re not satisfied, this Let’s Go researcher will eat a paper coffee cup. The organic, fair trade beans come from all corners of the world and the entire process (from three spoonfuls of coffee beans to a steaming cup) takes place before your eyes. Have your cup to go, or enjoy it while checking your email using the Wi-Fi upstairs.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, head north past the New Town Hall. Stay to the right on Vodičkova when it forks; the cafe is on the right. 
2nd location in Vinohrady. Coffee 35-67Kč. Open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm.
Lemon Leaf
THAI $$
Myslíkova 14
224 919 056; www.lemon.cz
Classy Lemon Leaf serves delicious Thai food at affordable prices, especially on weekdays during lunchtime (11am-3pm) and during happy hours (3:30-6pm, 20% discount on all meals). If you approve of these, you might also be interested in coming for the weekend all-you-can-eat brunch (noon-3:30pm), which at 249Kč is a bit more costly but gives you a choice of several appetizers and entrees. The spacious interiors and the tables outside are equally alluring.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the square, take Resslova toward the river and make a right onto Na Zderaze. Continue to the intersection of Na Zderaze and Myslíkova. Curries 159-189Kč. Entrees 139-199Kč. Lunch menu 89-149Kč. Open M-Th 11am-11pm, F 11am-midnight, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11pm.
Angelato
ICE CREAM $
Rytířská 27
224 235 123; www.angelato.cz
Word on the street is that this is the best ice cream place in all of Prague. We’re inclined to agree—the taste is smooth, creamy, and downright surprising. Intrigued? Then don’t take our word for it; go find out for yourself. Ice cream heaven is only 30Kč away.
A or B: Můstek. From the Metro, walk up Na Můstku toward the Old Town. The shop is on the left. 1 scoop 30Kč; 2 scoops 55Kč. Cash only. Open daily 11am-10pm.
Pivovarský Dům
CZECH $$$
Jeèná 15
296 216 666; www.gastroinfo.cz/pivodum
Sure, it’s a touristy place, but for good reason. To begin with, there’s a microbrewery that makes eight different kinds of flavored beers (among them nettle, cherry, coffee, and banana) which you can drink individually (40Kč) or in a sampler (130Kč). Beer comes in regular sizes as well as in 4L towers that dominate the dining rooms. Food is served in enormous portions, and the football-sized pork knee (205Kč per kg) could be hazardous if it fell from any kind of height. Look for little beer icons on the menu—they denote dishes made with beer.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, take Jeèná east away from the river; Pivovarský Dům is on the right at the corner of Jeèná and Štěpánská. Czech dishes 155-295Kč. Entrees 105-385Kč. Small beer 40Kč. Open daily 11am-11:30pm.
CAFE $
Školská 28
222 211 567; www.lgp.cz
Artsy travelers should stop in to this photography-themed gallery and cafe. The gallery in the back exhibits the work of international and local photographers and offers a new show every month. The cafe itself displays photographs, too, in addition to selling an impressive variety of monographs and magazines. As for food, the selection is small—three kinds of sandwiches and some quick bites. Try one of the exotic lemonades, which come in nettle, hemp, rooibos, and elderberry flavors.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, head away from the river down Žitná. Školská is the 2nd left. Soup 38Kč. Sandwiches 59-67Kč. Coffee 39-50Kč. Gallery admission varies, but usually 70Kč, students 40Kč, and art students 30Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 11am-9pm, Sa-Su 2-10pm.
Pod Křídlem Noci
CZECH $$$
Národní 10
224 951 741; www.podkridlemnoci.cz
This innovative restaurant has two faces: the modern, green-chaired cafe that’s visible to the outside world and the hidden second room, where people gather to eat in absolute darkness two times per week. Should you choose the second option, you’ll need a reservation, and you’ll have to remove all light-producing objects before you enter. The entire experience costs 790Kč, and includes one of the four set menus and a live performance (all in total darkness). This option is recommended for ugly dates. If, on the other hand, you actually find your date attractive, dine in the properly lit cafe downstairs, which serves a handful of meat entrees and some old-school Czech desserts at surprisingly reasonable prices.
B: Národní třída. From the Metro, walk north on Spálená, turn left on Národní, and head toward the river. Take the 3rd left onto Voršilská. The restaurant is on the left (despite its address on Národní). Entrees 129-245Kč. Set menu 790Kč. Open M 11am-4pm, Tu-F 11am-11pm.
Café Rybka
CAFE $
Opatovická 7
224 931 265; rybkapub.cz
Antique typewriters hang on the book-lined walls of this smoky, cheap cafe. You’ll have to compete for table space with Czech hipsters (both young and middle-aged), who’ll be feeding on toast (25-45Kč), or, more likely, on beer and cigarettes. When the cafe closes at 10pm, patrons usually move to the cafe’s sister; just down the street, the bar Malá Ryba offers everything at the same prices, and stays open ’til 2am.
B: Národní třída. From the Metro, walk down Ostrovní toward the river. Take the 1st left at Opatovická and follow it around the curve. The cafe is on the right. Breakfast 40-45Kč. Coffee 28-40Kč. Beer 17-35Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 9:15am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm.
U Matějíčků
CZECH $$
Náplavní 5
224 917 136; www.umatejicku.cz
U Matějíčků does solid Czech favorites right. For an introduction to Czech beer pairings, go for the “Big Board full of Goodies” (199Kč), which includes spicy sausage, head cheese, smoked pork neck, hot peppers, pickled onions, and Hermelin, Edam, and olomoucké tvarúžky cheeses. The lunch menu (79-99Kč) is also cheap and filling.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, head toward Resslova. Take the 2nd right onto Dittrichova; the restaurant is on the left at the fork. Entrees 109-249Kč. Beer 15-32Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm.
Café Louvre
CAFE $$
Národní třída 22
224 930 949; www.cafelouvre.cz
This smart Parisian bistro has brought French sophistication to Prague since 1902, serving figures like Kafka, Einstein, and Karel Èapek. It had too much class for its own good, though: during the Communist coup in 1948 its furniture was flung out the windows (defenestrated!). The cafe wasn’t renovated until after the ’89 revolution. Welcome back, capitalism. Stop by for a breakfast plate (109-149Kč), or for something small later in the day (quiche 129Kč). Any of the mouthwatering cakes on display (46-69Kč) will go well with Louvre’s coffee and the view overlooking Národní třída.
B: Národní třída. From the Metro, head north on Spálená and turn left onto Národní třída. The cafe is to the left. Entrees 129-319Kč. Coffee 39-55Kč. Open M-F 8am-11:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-11:30pm.
Zvonice
FRENCH $$$$
Jindřišská věž
224 220 009; www.restaurantzvonice.cz
Visitors to this intimate restaurant inside historic St. Henry Tower have to share space with the tower’s wooden scaffolding and an old bell. It’s definitely a splurge, but the setting is unparalleled—perfect for a candlelit dinner, interrupted only by the shaking of the tower when the bells chime. The entrees feature mostly venison and other meat, all prepared in expensive-sounding ways (450-790Kč). If you’d like to make alcohol the focus of your night, try the downstairs Whiskeria, which offers some 400 kinds of whiskey at prices that are both student- and billionaire-friendly, depending on what you choose from the enormous menu.
A or B: Můstek. From Wenceslas Sq., walk down Jindřišská. Zvonice is the giant tower at the end of the street. Reservations recommended. Dress to impress. Whiskeria 224 248 645; www.whiskeria.cz. Expect to pay 1000Kč for the full dinner experience. Lunch menu 290Kč. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. Kitchen closes 10pm. Whiskeria open daily 10am-midnight.
Restaurace U Zpěváčků
CZECH, ITALIAN $$
Na struze 7
224 930 493; www.restauraceuzpevacku.com
This place has been a hangout of opera singers, a meeting place for political dissidents, and a drug lair (not all at once). Today, it’s an unpretentious restaurant that serves Czech and Italian dishes. The fried cheese with fries and tartar sauce (122Kč) is always a safe bet, while the big selection of spaghetti, risotto, and gnocchi will do if it’s Italian cuisine you’re after.
B: Národní třída. Head toward the river down Ostrovní. Turn left onto Pštrossova and then take the 1st slight right. The restaurant is on the right. Entrees 124-198Kč. Beer 21-68Kč. Open M-F 10am-2am, Sa-Su 11am-2am.
Restaurace U Žaludů
CZECH $
Na Zbořenci 5
776 327 118; www.lunchtime.cz/u-zaludu
Don’t search for this restaurant in any other travel guide—it’s the kind of place where old Czech men hang out, drink beer, smoke cigarettes, and turn and stare if somebody unknown shows up. We are listing it as an interesting cultural experience, so if you’re feeling too pampered by the tourist establishments, stop by. The ridiculously cheap food is served only at lunch, but the ridiculously cheap beer flows non-stop.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head toward Resslova. Take the 1st right onto Na Zderaze and right onto Na Zbořenci. Czech menus only. Meals 69-79Kč. Beer 14-24Kč. Shots 25-50Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 10:30am-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm.
Dynamo
FUSION $$
Pštrossova 29
224 932 020; www.dynamorestaurace.cz
Dynamo prides itself on being the kind of restaurant where you can’t get fried cheese—the menu aims to surprise with such combinations as quesadilla with aubergine chutney, or spaghetti with arugula and anchovies. There are only three traditional Czech meals on the menu, and their price tags (190-225Kč) make the other cuisines more appealing. The lime-green interior may have been edgy back in ’99 when the restaurant opened; today it comes off as a bit run-down. The walls sport some Andy Warhol pieces, one of them signed.
B: Národní třída. From the Metro, walk down Ostrovní toward the river and take the 3rd left on Pštrossova; Dynamo is on the right. Entrees 150-255Kč. Desserts 60-135Kč. Beer 37Kč. Open daily 11:30am-midnight.
Café Royal
CAFE $$
Myslíkova 24
224 913 037; www.lunchtime.cz/royal-cafe
The real deal at this vaguely colonial cafe is the lunch specials (84-105Kč). There are always five options to choose from, all with a daily soup (which may arrive before you order, if you come here often enough). Coffee and an apple strudel with vanilla ice cream can be added to your lunch for just 55Kč. The lunch menus are in Czech, but the waitresses will happily translate. On sunny days, the terrace is a great place to lounge and watch passersby.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, walk north and turn left onto Odborů. Continue until it runs into Myslíkova. The cafe is on the right. Chicken dishes 109-145Kč. Desserts 25-65Kč. Open M-F 11am-midnight, Sa-Su noon-midnight. Lunch M-F 11am-3pm.
The rule of thumb for dining out in Staré Město is to follow the locals. Due to the density of tourism, there are a lot of tourist traps more than willing to serve food for twice the price you’d pay in a more residential neighborhood. There are a few grocery stores (žabka, Albert), but the best place to shop for food is Tesco MY (Národní 26 Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 9am-8pm.), which has low prices and a large selection.
CZECH $
Havelská 21
224 228 769
As authentic as anything you might find in Staré Město, Havelská Koruna may be a bit intimidating at first: if you’re standing in the lunch line, you’d better have your order from the Czech-language menu ready. But it’s hard to go wrong; this is real food for real people. If you’re in the market for an enormous dessert, try one of their sweet meals, like šišky s mákem (potato dumplings with poppy seeds) or buchtièky s krémem (buns in custard). The seating area is very cozy; during lunch hour you may even need to share space with some new friends.
A or B: Můstek. From the station, head north on na Můstku and continue as it turns into Melantrichova. Take a right on Havelská. The restaurant will be on the left. Sides 13-26Kč. Soups 21-33Kč. Entrees 35-79Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10am-8pm.
Grand Café Orient
CAFE $$
Ovocný trh 19
224 224 240; www.grandcafeorient.cz
Grand Café Orient is supposedly the world’s only Cubist cafe. It is located on the second floor of Black Madonna House (see Sights), and it originally closed after just 10 years in business when the winds of fashion changed. Luckily, the cafe reopened 80 years later when the taste for Cubist architecture returned. Come here after your visit to the Cubist museum (or skip the museum portion altogether) and have a delicious spinach crepe (95Kč) or one of the other light meals on the menu. Bonus points: guess the shape of their special dessert, “cubist cake.”
B: Náměstí Republiky. From Old Town Sq., walk toward Church of Our Lady Before Týn. Keep the church on your right and continue down Celetná. The cafe is at the fork of Celetná and Ovocný trh, on the 2nd floor, through the museum entrance. Crepes 95-140Kč. Desserts 25-60Kč. Coffee 45-85Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 9am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm.
Beas Vegetarian Dhaba
INDIAN, VEGETARIAN $
Týnská 19
608 035 727; www.beas-dhaba.cz
This vegetarian buffet is about as good a deal as you can get in the Old Town. It’s cheap, tasty, and while most restaurants here try to rip you off on your teeny-tiny beverage, the water at Beas is free. The selection changes daily, but you can always count on basmati rice, two kinds of daal, samosas, and a daily special.
B: Náměstí Republiky. From Old Town Sq., walk toward Church of Our Lady Before Týn, pass it on the left, and continue down Týnska. After you pass the church, keep to the left on Týnska—don’t go straight. Turn left into a small courtyard; Beas Vegetarian Dhaba is next to Hostel Týn. Other locations at Vlastislavova 24 (
Národní Třída), Sokolovská 93 (Křížikova), Bělehradská 90 (I.P. Pavlova). Self-service food 16Kč per 100g. Lassi 22Kč. Coffee 24-32Kč. Open M-F 11am-8pm, Sa noon-8pm, Su noon-6pm.
Lokál
CZECH $$
Dlouhá 33
222 316 265; www.ambi.cz
Let this place be your introduction to a uniquely Czech way of treating beer—the “tank system.” The beer skips pasteurization and is instead stored in giant tanks—not kegs—where it remains cut off from oxygen. The beer’s first meeting with air is when it’s poured. The menu, which changes daily, comprises traditional Czech dishes served inside a single arched hallway that’s as long as a street block and echoes with conversation. Lokál is packed with locals, so it’s a good idea to make a reservation.
B: Náměstí Republiky. From Old Town Sq., head northeast past the Jan Hus statue, and continue on Dlouhá. Lokál is on the left. Sides 35-45Kč. Buffet appetizers 39-89Kč. Entrees 99-159Kč. Beer 29-39Kč. Open M-F 11am-1am, Sa noon-1am, Su noon-10pm. Kitchen open M-F 11am-9:45pm, Sa noon-9:45pm, Su noon-8:45pm.
Lehká Hlava
VEGETARIAN $$
Boršov 2
222 220 665; www.lehkahlava.cz
Even alpha-wolf carnivores should consider this cozy restaurant whose name means “Clear Mind.” The interior was created by a number of Czech designers, and each room has a different feel (there’s one that looks like a starry night sky), but the atmosphere remains relaxed throughout. Unlike many vegetarian restaurants, this one delivers big plates of great food: try the eggplant quesadilla (145Kč), a blasphemy by Mexican standards but tasty nevertheless. For dessert, go for millet carrot cake covered in chocolate (70Kč), or, if you’re low on energy, have some of the Brazilian guarana juice, which has three times the caffeine of coffee (50-75Kč).
A: Staroměstská. From Old Town Sq., head west and turn left at the river. Continue on Křižovnické as it becomes Smetanovo nábřeží, then make a quick left fork onto Karoliny Světlé. Then, make a left onto Boršov (it’s a tiny street). Reservations recommended. Sides 25-45Kč. Salads 125-145Kč. Entrees 140-175Kč. Desserts 70-80Kč. Open M-F 11:30am-11:30pm, Sa-Su noon-11:30pm. Lunch menu until 3:30pm. Between 3:30-5pm, only drinks, cold appetizers, and desserts. Brunch served 1st Su of the month 10:30am-2pm.
Duende
CAFE, BAR $
Karolíny Světlé 30
775 186 077; www.barduende.cz
One of the many small bars that cluster around this area, Duende has plenty of personality—so much that it could be mistaken for a junk shop. Buoys hang next to leaping tigers, old guitars, and Christian posters…you get the picture. The small round tables are perfect for friendly conversations—if you have nobody to talk to, try to engage one of the artsy student types brooding over her diary. Drinks are cheap, and there’s a small menu of snacks (35-99Kč).
B: Národní třída. Walk up on Spálená and turn left on Národní třída. Turn right at Karolíny Světlé, and continue as it curves to the left and to the right. Duende is on the right after the street narrows. Beer 20-35Kč. Coffee 30-55Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 1pm-midnight, Sa 3pm-midnight, Su 4pm-midnight.
Krásný Ztráty
CAFE $
Náprstkova 10
775 755 142
“Beautiful Losses” is where it’s at, at least if you ask local art students, intellectuals, and similar loafers. You’ll rarely see someone over 40 here, and the place is clearly geared toward the younger crowds. Photography exhibits hang on the walls and the cafe frequently hosts cultural events. Food is light and reasonably cheap. Try the chicken quesadilla (95Kč), or if you happen to be around late at night, get the “midnight Hermelín” cheese (35-69Kč). If it’s a busy night and you want to be really cool, grab some chairs from inside and sit outside, smoke heavily, and perch your beer on the windowsill.
A: Staroměstská. From Old Town Sq., set out in the direction of Charles Bridge, but continue south on Jilská. When you reach the intersection with Skořepka, take a right and continue to Betlémské Náměstí. Continue as it turns into Náprstkova. The cafe is on the left. Breakfast 85-95Kč. Coffee 29-66Kč. Beer 20-39Kč. Open M-F 9am-1am. Sa-Su noon-1am.
CHOCOLATE $
Liliová 4
222 222 519; www.choco-cafe.cz
As the name implies, these guys take their chocolate seriously. Hot chocolate is made on the spot using melted chocolate chips instead of some packaged mixture. Choose from an array of flavors that includes ginger, sea salt, and chili, or get the evening started by spiking your chocolate with rum, egg nog, or whiskey. We also highly recommend their desserts; the tiramisu (60Kč) is massive. This space was a postcard museum before Choco Café came along—be sure to scope out the hilariously old-fashioned collection on the walls.
A: Staroměstská. From Old Town Sq., set out in the direction of Charles Bridge, but continue south on Jilská. When you reach the intersection with Skořepka, take a right, and continue to Betlémské Náměstí. Pass the church and take a right on Liliová. The cafe is on the right. Bruschetta 78-93Kč. Cakes 60Kč. Hot chocolate 55-75Kč. Open M-Sa 10am-10pm, Su 10am-8pm.
Apetit
CAFETERIA $
Dlouhá 23
222 329 853; www.apetitpraha.cz
Apetit embodies the way Czechs and tourists are seen as two different species by most restaurants in Staré Město. There are actually two parts of Apetit: a no-nonsense eatery serving hungry locals upstairs and a gussied-up restaurant downstairs, serving dishes that contain shark, swordfish, and the like at exorbitant prices. Choose the former, which may be one of the cheapest places to eat in Staré Město. Grab a tray, take some silverware, wait in the cafeteria-style lunch line, and use sign language to indicate which of the traditional Czech meals you’d like. It’s normal to sit at the same table with strangers in the cramped dining area: just say dobrý den (hello) as you join and na shledanou (goodbye) when you leave.
B: Náměstí Republiky. From Old Town Sq., head northeast past the Jan Hus statue, and continue on Dlouhá. Apetit is on the left. Lunch menu 72Kč. Entrees with soda 89-92Kč. Beer 17-25Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa-Su 10am-8pm.
AMERICAN $
Masná 2
224 812 560; www.bohemiabagel.cz
Other (less touristy) locations at Lázeňská 19, Dukelských Hrdinu 48
Designed for homesick Americans, the Bohemia Bagel chain brings bagels, free coffee refills (49Kč), Ben & Jerry’s ice cream, democracy, and more to the Old Continent. Breakfast is served all day, but the restaurant delivers solid lunch options too: burgers, sandwiches, and grilled meat. And, if you need to send an email home or tweet about how crazy Europe is, Bohemia Bagel also serves internet.
A: Staroměstská. From Old Town Sq., head northeast past the Jan Hus statue, and continue on Dlouhá. At the roundabout, take a right on Masná. Bagels 25-80Kč. Sandwiches 95-130Kč. Coffee 35-50Kč. Computers 2Kč per min. Wi-Fi 1Kč per min. Cash only. Open daily 8am-9:30pm.
La Casa Blů
LATIN AMERICAN $$
Kozí 15
221 818 270; www.lacasablu.cz
Burritos and quesadillas are on the menu, but calling La Casa Blů a Mexican restaurant would do this cool hang-out an injustice. The Latin American chefs also prepare South American sandwiches, plus there’s Chilean wine on the menu. A generous happy hour until 6pm includes some cheap meals (tacos 116Kč) and drinks (beer 19-26Kč). La Casa Blů also serves as the local ambassador for Latin culture: the walls are covered with the work of Latin artists, and Latin musicians perform here regularly. La Casa Blů was also the filming site for parts of the Czech cult film Samotáři (Loners, 2000)—you can’t get much cooler.
B: Náměstí Republiky. From Old Town Sq., head northeast and continue on Dlouhá. At the roundabout, take a left on Kozí. Burritos 168Kč. Quesadillas 148-168Kč. Beer 21-43Kč. Open M-F 11am-midnight or later, Su 2pm-late.
Klub Architektů
INTERNATIONAL $$
Betlémské náměstí 5A
224 248 878; www.klubarchitektu.com
If you’re in the market for a candlelit dinner in a cavernous setting, this is the place. The cuisine bills itself as “international,” but don’t expect anything too exotic—it’s mostly good old Czech pub entrees in fancier sauces. Given the sophisticated ambiance, the prices are surprisingly reasonable; there’s many a dump that will try to sell you this fare for the same price. Oh, and if the ridiculously low-hanging lamp happens to be poking your “beef medallion with apples in cream sauce and mashed potatoes” (185Kč), just ask the waiter to raise the light fixture.
B: Národní třída. From Old Town Sq., set out in the direction of Charles Bridge, but stay south on Jilská. Take a right at the intersection with Skořepka, continue to Betlémské náměstí, and then turn right into a courtyard (it’s next to Betlémska Church). The restaurant is down a staircase. Sides 30-40Kč. Entrees 145-185Kč. Desserts 55-80Kč. Open daily 11:30am-midnight.
Zahrádka U Kristiána
BEER GARDEN $
Smetanovo nábřeží 5
This bare-bones assemblage of tables and sunshades has only about three items on the menu: sausage (65Kč), Hermelín (80Kč), and “chicken steak” (180Kč), all grilled on a tiny grill in plain sight. If this sounds tempting, walk down the steps to the river, sit on one of the benches, and enjoy the view. (The view goes well with a beer.)
A: Staroměstská. From Old Town Sq., head toward the river and when you reach it, turn left on Křižovnická. Continue as it becomes Smetanovo nábřeží. The outdoor terrace will be close to the river on your right, close to the river, down some stairs. Food 65-180Kč. Beer 32-42Kč. Cash only. Officially open Apr-Sept daily 11am-10pm, but closing time depends on demand and weather.
Pivnice U Rudolfina
CZECH $$
Křižovnická 10
222 328 758
You need to know what you’re looking for to find it, because the tiny street-level floor doesn’t hint at the size of this smoky underground pub. It’s quintessentially Czech—there are no English menus and waiters aren’t very well-equipped linguistically—but you’ll do good to pop in for a traditional Czech meal or for a beer (served from the tank).
A: Staroměstská. From Old Town Sq., head toward the river and, when you reach it, turn right on Křižovnická. Meat entrees 99-199Kč. Beer 25-38Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10:30am-11pm. Lunch menu until 2pm.
Josefov is full of tourist traps that are to be avoided at all costs. If you do find yourself sightseeing around lunchtime, there are some very cheap lunch menus, even at the more expensive restaurants. Ask about these deals before you sit down.
Kolkovna
CZECH $$$
V Kolkovně 8
224 819 701; www.kolkovna-restaurant.cz
If there’s one restaurant in Josefov that’s worth the price, it’s Kolkovna—not that it’s very expensive in the first place. The focus is on grilled meat and skewers, but chances are that whatever dish you order will be tasty and generously portioned. Locals come here for the tank beer, and you should consider yourself lucky if you’re able to get a table without a reservation at dinner time. Try the lunch menu first (95Kč)—even lunches here tend to be more creative than elsewhere.
B: Staroměstská. In the square with the Franz Kafka statue. To get here from Old Town Sq., head north on Dlouhá and turn left on Dušní. Czech specialties 169-345Kč. Beer 36-43Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Le Court Café/Galerie
CAFE $
Haštalská 1
There’s no food served at Le Court, unless we’re talking about food for the soul, in which case there’s plenty—the indoor part of the cafe serves as a gallery that hosts a new contemporary art exhibit every month. The real place to be, however, is the courtyard, with its wobbly wooden tables and cozy nooks. Decorated with rampant ivy and other greenery, the courtyard is a great place to discuss anything and everything over a beer, coffee, or hot chocolate.
A: Staroměstská. From Old Town Sq., walk up Dlouhá and, after the roundabout, continue straight on Kozí. The cafe is inside a courtyard in the building that says “Galerie.” Beer 35-40Kč. Coffee 35-50Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10am-10pm.
La Bodeguita del Medio
CUBAN $$$
Kaprova 5
224 813 922; www.bodeguita.cz
Few places in the neighborhood are as hopping as this Cuban restaurant-bar (it doesn’t hurt La Bodeguita’s odds that most of the neighborhood is a cemetery). Live Latin music flows as freely as the mojitos and margaritas. While most of the meat entrees are on the pricier side, it’s possible to keep within the budget by getting one of their soups (85Kč) and perhaps combining it with an appetizer. This is also the place to buy Cuban cigars.
A: Staroměstská. About 25m east of the Metro on Kaprova. Latin music and dancing most nights. Creole dishes 250-380Kč. Grilled meat dishes 310-440Kč. Beer 60-95Kč. Open M 9am-2am, Tu-Sa 9am-4am, Su 9am-2am.
Pivnice U Pivrnce
CZECH $
Maiselova 3
222 329 404; www.upivrnce.cz
This could well be the cheapest place in Josefov, offering ordinary, unadorned Czech cuisine. U Pivrnce seems to compete with all the classy tourist traps of the neighborhood by doing the exact opposite—by which we mean not having any class at all. The walls are decorated with vulgar, misogynistic cartoons by a well-known local cartoonist. But even this is Czech authenticity—far more so than what you’d find in the prettied up establishments nearby.
A: Staroměstská. From the Old Town Sq., walk past the Church of St. Nicholas and onto Maiselova. U Pivrnce is on the left. Czech entrees 95-114Kč. Desserts 35-75Kč. Beer 15-35Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Restaurants in Malá Strana tend to be pricey, but there are a few good finds. Thanks to the high proportion of artistic types, the neighborhood has plenty of marvelous cafes. There are no supermarkets in Malá Strana because the neighborhood’s aesthetic is under official protection, but to the south there’s Nový Smíchov, a big shopping mall near ĆAnděl.
Bar Bar
INTERNATIONAL, BAR $$
Všehrdova 17
257 312 246; www.bar-bar.cz
Bar Bar’s blend of local flavor and exotic influences, and its balance of excitement and comfort, would make it a find in any neighborhood. Hiding just off the main street in Malá Strana, this gem has an original menu featuring mostly international dishes, such as souvlaki (174Kč) and fried, cheese-filled jalapeños (79Kč). But the house specialty is the crepes, both sweet (79-85Kč) and savory (125-139Kč). Bar Bar is also—surprise!—a bar, so don’t hesitate to come by at night for drinks, all in the company of brooding poets and painters.
A: Malostranská. From the station, walk south or take a tram 12, 20, or 22 to Hellichova. Continue walking south on Újezd, then turn left on Všehrdova. The restaurant is on the right. Entrees 139-195Kč. Desserts 95-125Kč. Beer 23-38Kč. Cocktails 90-175Kč. Open M-Th noon-midnight, F-Sa noon-2am, Su noon-midnight.
Dobrá Trafika
CAFE, WINE BAR $
Újezd 37
257 320 188; www.dobratrafika.cz
If you go through the unremarkable store in front, you’ll discover an excellent cafe, popular with artists, musicians, and other tea-drinking types. Speaking of tea, this place has a four-page menu dedicated to the stuff, in addition to coffee from 20 different countries and the rare Primátor beer on tap. If you’re hungry, try the weirdest pita bread you’ve ever seen: fillings range from banana (29Kč) to Georgian eggplant (78Kč). There’s also a small wine bar downstairs.
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, walk south or take tram 12, 20, or 22 to Hellichova. Continue walking south on Újezd; the specialty store is to the right. Pitas 29-78Kč. Coffee 35Kč. Beer 29-32Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 7:30am-11pm, Sa-Su 9am-11pm.
Tlustá Myš
CZECH $$
Všehrdova 19
605 282 506; www.tlustamys.cz
Tlustá Myš (“Fat Mouse”), next door to Bar Bar, has similarly awesome food and prices. The main difference between the two is that Fat Mouse focuses on Czech cuisine and feels down-to-earth, with wooden tables and brick walls. Grilled sausages (55Kč) are cheaper here than at a street vendor, and can be ordered from a menu decorated with cute mice drawings (the real reason to come here). We recommend the steak California (chicken cutlet with cheese and peaches), which, name aside, is a traditional Czech meal.
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, walk south or take tram 12, 20, or 22 to Hellichova. Continue walking south on Újezd and turn left onto Všehrdova. The restaurant is on the right. Entrees 119-165Kč. Desserts 49-59Kč. Beer 20-34Kč. 20% discount daily noon-2pm. Cash only. Open M-Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-10pm.
CZECH $$
Hellichova 5
257 224 408; www.pivnicepodpetrinem.cz
This low-key Czech pub is as cheap as it looks. There are just a few menu items: goulash (85Kč), chicken with rice (95Kč), and pork knee (165Kč), in addition to a set of alternating lunch dishes. There’s no English menu, but the staff will kindly translate. Frankly, we were surprised to find such a no-nonsense pub in the middle of Malá Strana.
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, walk south or take tram 12, 20, or 22 to Hellichova. The restaurant is at the intersection of Újezd and Hellichova. Entrees 85-165Kč. Lunch menu 99Kč. Beer 16-36Kč. Open daily 11am-12:30am.
Lokál U Bílé Kuželky
ZECH $$
Míšeňská 12
257 212 014; www.ambi.cz
Decorated like its Old Town cousin, Lokál changes its menu of reasonably priced Czech dishes daily. Aside from normal beer, Lokál also offers šnyt, a sort of half beer—most of the glass is occupied by beer foam, which keeps the liquid below fresh and unoxidized. It’s the perfect lunchtime solution to the age-old dilemma “have another beer or not?”
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, head south along the river on Klárov past the Kafka Museum. Take a right at Míšeňská; the restaurant is on the right. Lunch menu 89-115Kč. Dinner entrees 159-205Kč. Beer 29-38Kč. Open daily 11:30am-midnight.
Mlýnská Kavárna
AFE $
Všehrdova 14
608 444 490
Students love this watermill cafe on Kampa Island, with a functioning water wheel and a terrace that’s perfect for sunny days. The food pickings are rather slim, but the daily soup and one of the beer pairings will stave hunger off.
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, head south along the river to Kampa. The cafe is at the southwest corner of the island; look for a giant water wheel. The cafe’s address is on Všehrdova, but the entrance is from Kampa Island. Food 24-59Kč. Beer 21-36Kč. Coffee 34-74Kč. Cash only. Open daily noon-midnight.
AFE, BAR $
Nosticova 8
736 425 011; www.59cafebar.cz
This new cafe is rapidly ascending the popularity ladder among Malá Strana locals. The best feature is the cozy terrace, which sits right above the Vltava (or rather, above the tiny rivulet that separates Kampa from Malá Strana). There are toasts and other snacks, but the drinks are the main event.
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, head south along the river, all the way to Kampa. When you reach the island’s park, take the 1st right just after the small statue. The cafe is behind the bridge. Toasts 59Kč. Beer 18-37Kč. Coffee 39-60Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm.
Wigwam
INTERNATIONAL $$
Zborovská 54
257 311 707; www.cafebarwigwam.cz
The menu at the ambiguously ethnic Wigwam oscillates between Czech experiments, like the pork neck burger (149Kč); American non-experiments, like the classic hamburger (149Kč); and curveball Asian dishes, like the mat saman curry (170Kč). The blue cheese nachos (90Kč) are enough to start any party—any cheese party, that is.
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, walk south or take tram 12, 20, or 22 to Újezd. From the tram stop, walk toward the river until you reach Zborovská and turn right. The restaurant is on the left. Entrees 80-195Kč. Beer 20-40Kč. Cocktails 60-90Kč. Open M-F 11am-1am, Sa noon-1am, Su noon-10pm.
Cafe Kafíčko
CAFE $
Míšeňská 10
724 151 795
A quiet stop in the middle of tourist town, Cafe Kafíčko is also one of the first nonsmoking cafes in all of Prague. Its coffee comes from 12 different countries, is made from whole beans on the spot, and is not served in a paper cup (due to some principled belief about how coffee deserves time and attention). Other than a selection of breakfast items, food is mostly limited to dessert (15-55Kč).
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, head south along the river on Klárov past the Kafka Museum. Take a right at Míšeňská; the restaurant is on the right. Coffee 42-68Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10am-10pm.
SNACKS $
Míšeňská 2
721 959 903
Kavárna Čas wouldn’t be very remarkable if it didn’t offer delicious and cheap snacks in this overpriced neighborhood. Toasted cheese sandwiches (45Kč) come with ketchup, and strudel pastries (40-65Kč) are filled with bologna, sausage, or cabbage. The menu has photos of the “Golden Voice of Prague,” Karel Gott, visiting the cafe. If you don’t know who Karel Gott is, that’s one more thing to YouTube tonight.
A: Malostranská. From the Metro, head south along the river on Klárov past the Kafka Museum. Take a right at Míšeňská; the restaurant is on the right. Toasts 30-60Kč. Beer 20-30Kč. Coffee 20-50Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10am-8pm.
When it comes to most restaurants in Hradèany, we’ll quote Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a (tourist) trap!” For a cheap bite to eat, try the fast food hole-in-the-wall near the intersection of Pohořelec and Úvoz ( Hot dogs 25Kč. Cheeseburgers 50Kč.), or the žabka market across the street.
U Zavěšenýho Kafe
ZECH $$
Úvoz 6
605 294 595; www.uzavesenyhokafe.com
Unlike so many of the touristy establishments nearby, this restaurant has a strong base of local patrons—in fact, an entire wall is covered by snapshots of customers wearing “U Zavěšenýho Kafe” T-shirts in exotic travel destinations. The portions are huge, and the cozy dining area is segmented into a number of smaller rooms. The inner courtyard is a great place to sit on both sunny and rainy days. Check out the abacus counter near the entrance—it shows the number of coffees that have been purchased in advance by local patrons for the benefit of people without the money to pay. Please don’t abuse the honor system.
Tram 22: Malostranské náměstí. From the tram stop, walk uphill on Nerudova and continue as it becomes Úvoz. The restaurant is on the right. Entrees 85-175Kč. Desserts 22-65Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10am-11pm.
CZECH, ROMANIAN $$
Nerudova 21
721 029 205; http://czrestaurace.ceskybanat.cz
Probably the cheapest restaurant on the block, Český Banát is bare but neat and very welcoming. The owner is Romanian, and it’s one of the few places in Prague where you can try cuisine from that corner of the world. To get started, try the èorba soup with meat dumplings (55Kč). On your way out, pick up some of the traditional, sugar-covered pastries sold at the entrance.
Tram 22: Malostranské náměstí. From the stop, walk uphill on Nerudova. The restaurant is on the left side, next to Little Quarter hostel. Entrees 89-129Kč. Sweets 69-115Kč. Lunch menus 89-109Kč. Cash only. Open M-Th 9am-9pm, F-Sa 9am-2am, Su 9am-9pm.
Bellavista
CZECH $$$
Strahovské nádvoří 1
220 517 274; www.bella-vista.cz
It doesn’t take a genius to figure out that the reason people come here is the bella vista (pretty view). The restaurant’s wooden tables have some of the best panoramic views of the city, and the prices have been set accordingly. If you want the view for cheap, order a beer or coffee; if you want the view for free, walk down one level to the area full of tourists.
The restaurant is below Strahov Monastery. Facing the monastery, turn left and continue until you reach a sloping path leading to the restaurant. Czech specials 255Kč. Desserts 120-135Kč. Small beer 65-69Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Klášterní Pivovar and St. Norbert Restaurant
CZECH $$$
Strahovské nádvoří 301
233 353 155; www.klasterni-pivovar.cz
Turns out Strahov has not only a restaurant, but also a microbrewery with its own signature beer—named after a saint with the somewhat uncommon name, “Norbert.” The food isn’t necessarily the best thing to happen since St. Norbert was around, but you can enjoy a cool glass of the beer right before going to see the saint’s remains, also in glass, at the monastery’s gallery. Oh boy!
Opposite the Strahov Monastery. Book tours of the brewery in advance. Appetizers 79Kč; entrees 150-390Kč. St. Norbert beer 35-64Kč. Brewery tours 120Kč; includes 3 small beers. Open daily 10am-10pm.
U Sadu
CZECH $$
Škroupovo náměstí 5
222 727 072; www.usadu.cz
This may be one of Žižkov’s best-known restaurants. Choose between the patio seating or the dining room, where an entire antique shop dangles from the ceiling. But the coolest part of the restaurant is U Sadu’s smoky cellar: behind the gambling machines, a spiral staircase leads to a foosball table and several small rooms filled with young people. Some of the most popular dishes are fried ribs with mustard and horseradish (155Kč) or roasted pork knee (195Kč).
A: Jiřího z Poděbrad. From the Metro, cross diagonally through the park (pass in front of the church) and then walk north on Laubova. U Sadu is at the northern side of the square with the roundabout. Snacks 55-95Kč. Meat entrees 125-195Kč. Beer 28-33Kč. Open M-W 9am-2am, Th-Sa 9am-4am, Su 9am-2am. Kitchen open until 2am.
U Vystrelenýho Voka
PUB $
U Božích bojovníků 3
222 540 465; www.uvoka.cz
The title of this place means “at the shot-out eye” and over the last 19 years it has become something of a cult establishment. The menu is the opposite of fussy—the only two categories you can choose from are “cold food” and “warm food.” Try the inexpensive Danube sausage (35Kč), or, if you want to splurge, the fried cheese (80Kč). The cascading terraces above the pub actually belong to a different establishment, Kavárna U Voka ( Beer 26-33Kč Open M-F 3-10pm, Sa-Su 2-10pm), which is an equally great place to grab a drink. Oh, and if you ask the staff what the name means, you’ll get a 30min. lecture on the history of Žižkov. Short answer: it refers to the one-eyed Jan Žižka, the famous Hussite general.
Tram 5, 9, or 26: Husinecká. Walk uphill on Seifertova, then turn left on Blahníkova and continue as it turns into Jeronýmova. When you reach Husitská, take a right and then the 1st left into a little alley marked U Božích bojovníků. Cold food 30-44Kč. Hot food 35-89Kč. Open daily 4:30pm-1am.
MEXICAN $$
Kubelíkova 33
222 733 980; www.amoresperros.cz
The chefs may be Czech and the interior overcompensates (think sombreros and cactuses), but Amores Perros is still known as one of the better Mexican places in Prague (and the only one in Žižkov). Sizzling enchiladas (109Kč) smothered in heart-stopping sauce are the way to go. Come here for lunch, as the menu deals (79Kč) are filling and superb.
Tram 5, 9, or 26: Olšanské náměstí. From the stop, walk 2 blocks west on Kubelíkova. Salads 84-114Kč. Burritos 164-199Kč. Open M-Th 11am-midnight, F 11am-1am, Sa 11am-midnight, Su 12:30pm-midnight.
U Mariánskeho Obrazu
CZECH $$
Kubelíkova 26
222 722 007; www.umarianskehoobrazu.cz
This down-to-earth Czech restaurant serves Pilsner from the tank and offers steaks from young cows, along with other, more traditional fare. If you haven’t yet, try the Slovak specialty bryndzové halušky (115Kč)—the rough translation is sheep’s cheese dumplings with bacon, but there’s no precise translation for the goodness they entail.
A: Jiřího z Poděbrad. From the Metro, cross diagonally through the park and then take Milešovská; Kubelíkova is on the other side of the Žižkov tower park. Meals 115-155Kč. Steaks 210-360Kč. Beer 19-35Kč. Cash only. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Zelená kuchyně
VEGETARIAN $$
Milíèova 5
222 220 114; www.zelenakuchyne.cz
Clean, fresh, wholesome ingredients combine to make any vegetarian orgasm. Check out the grilled tomatoes with goat cheese and blackberry dressing…you should really get a room. Top off the pleasurable experience with a little dessert: savor cinnamon pancakes made from oatmeal and apples and topped with ice cream and blueberry sauce.
Trams 5, 9, or 26: Lipanská. From the stop, walk west on Seifertova and turn right at Milíèova. The restaurant is on the left. Menus from 90Kč. Entrees 110-290Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 11am-8pm.
Sweet Dreams
If you’re looking for an after-dinner treat but want something a bit more exotic than a hot fudge sundae, try the Czech bakery favorite: honey cake. The delectable creation combines the sweetness of honey with multiple layers of cake-and-cream-filled paradise. Just one taste may be enough to convince you to move to Prague permanently.
Almost every street in Vinohrady has a small restaurant or hidden cafe known and frequented by locals; the opportunities for exploration are unlimited. For groceries, there’s a Tesco near I.P. Pavlova (Vocelova 11 222 212 645 Open daily 6am-10pm.) and an Albert near Jiřího z Poděbrad. (Vinohradská 50 800 402 402 Open daily 8am-9pm.)
Vinárna U Palečka
CZECH $$
Nitranská 22
224 250 626; www.vinarnaupalecka.cz
The rustic interior may look unassuming, but if you’re after some great traditional Czech cuisine, this is the place. The menu is longer and more varied than in most Czech restaurants—it even makes a few attempts at Mexican cuisine—but we suggest sticking to the tried and true. The svíčková (beef in sour cream sauce; 139Kč) comes with whipped cream and cranberry jam. The lunch menu items are a steal at just 75Kč.
A: Jiřího z Poděbrad. From the station, head south on Nitranská; the restaurant is on the left. Entrees 80-230Kč. Beer 25-35Kč. Cash only. Open daily 11am-midnight. Lunch menu 11am-4pm.
Café Šlágr
CAFE $
Francouzská 72
607 277 688; www.kavarnaslagr.cz
True to the spirit of the First Czechoslovak Republic (1918-38), a sign on the wall of this traditional cafe prohibits “all left-wing political discussions.” So skip the politics and enjoy the desserts: they are homemade and beautiful. If you’re unfamiliar with Czech sweets, the overflowing věterník (29Kč) is a good place to start, or perhaps you’d like the cream-filled kremrole (15Kč). Coffee (42-75Kč) comes with cow-shaped vessels for milk and is a great complement to the desserts.
A: Náměstí Míru, or tram 4 or 22: Krymská. From the station, walk southeast along Francouzská. The cafe is on the right. Baked goods 17-40Kč. Breakfast 49-79Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm. Breakfast served 8am-2pm.
Las Adelitas
MEXICAN $$
Americká 8
222 542 031; www.lasadelitas.cz
There are several would-be Mexican restaurants in Prague, but Las Adelitas is on top of the food chain when it comes to authenticity. The chefs and owners are from Mexico, and the music is Mexican. Try the sopa Azteca (49Kč), a soup with croutons, cheese, sour cream sauce, chili, and avocado; you can be sure you won’t get this thing anywhere else around here. Thirsty amigos might appreciate a Corona (72Kč); frugal amigos will probably stick with a Staropramen (18Kč).
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk down Americká. The restaurant is on the left, past the square with the dinosaur fountain. Burritos 145Kč. Enchiladas 169-179Kč. Beer 18-39Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 11am-11pm, Sa-Su 2-11pm. Kitchen open until 10pm.
Mamacoffee
COFFEE $
Londýnska 49
773 263 333; www.mamacoffee.cz
Find more Mamacoffee outposts at Korunní 46 (Náměstí Míru) or Vodičkova 6 (Charles Square).
Coffee lovers, beware: these people take coffee even more seriously than you do. A staunch adherent of fair trade, organic coffee, Mamacoffee even has its own fair trade roasting facility. There are around 10 kinds of coffee waiting for you to try, and they can be made in all kinds of ways. The only gripe one might have is that there’s no Wi-Fi, but this isn’t the kind of place where you loaf around all day writing your long-postponed novel anyway.
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk down Rumunská, then take a left at Londýnska. The cafe is on the right. Desserts 15-35Kč. Coffee 29-67Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 8:30am-8pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-8pm.
Student Munchies
If you crave pizza, but want to save money and have an ISIC, we have a nearby alternative for you: Pizzeria Einstein (Rumunská 25; www.pizza-einstein.cz Pizza 106-159Kč Open 11am-11pm). The ambience might not be up to par with nearby Grosseto’s, but if you present your ISIC card in advance and order a pizza, you can get a second for free (just be careful not to get ripped off on drinks). Few foreigners know about this trick, as the special red menu that advertises the deal is in Czech.
ITALIAN $$
Francouzská 2
224 252 778; www.grosseto.cz
Popular with locals and tourists, this Italian chain brings a degree of style to Czech pizzerias, which otherwise tend to be rather unassuming. Made from predominantly Italian ingredients, Grosseto’s pizzas are generous, and there are almost 30 kinds to choose from. If you snag a table upstairs, you’ll be able to eat with a good view of the St. Ludmila Church.
A: Náměstí Míru. Grosseto is directly across the street from the Metro exit. Pizza 125-219Kč. Desserts 85-95Kč. Open daily 11:30am-11pm.
Radost FX
VEGETARIAN $$
Bělehradská 120
603 19 37 11; www.radostfx.cz
Before the club downstairs starts thrumming, head to Radost FX for their vegetarian specialties. You can eat in either the quieter, artsier cafe or the lounge, where mirror tiles, poison-green chandeliers, and red sofas combine for a slight hallucinogenic effect. A menu staple is the heavy “Popeye Burger” (180Kč), which replaces meat with—you guessed it—spinach! But there are many more culinary experiments to try, including the “White Trash Hot Artichoke Dip” (155Kč) and the “Crack Slaw Salad” (90Kč).
C: I.P. Pavlova. From the station, walk east on Jugoslávská. Take a left on Bělehradská. The cafe is on the right. Entrées 130-210Kč. Cash only. Open M-Th 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-1am, Su 10:30am-midnight.
Sokolovna
CZECH $$
Slezská 22
222 524 525; www.restaurantsokolovna.cz
Sokolovna is a notch above your traditional Czech restaurant: it’s cleaner, more spacious, and the staff is less grumpy. The walls of this former sokolovna (gym) are almost completely covered by old newspapers, but the decoration remains understated. The locals keep coming back for the tank beer and hearty meals. The tourists haven’t caught on yet; be a good hipster and get in before it gets mainstream.
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, head down Slezská. The restaurant is on the right. Entrees 139-265Kč. Desserts 77-115Kč. Beer 22-37Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Kavárna Zanzibar
CAFE $
Americká 15
222 520 315; www.kavarnazanzibar.cz
The wicker chairs outside this cafe make for very relaxed seating; it’s no wonder this place has become a local hangout. But there’s food too! In addition to breakfast sets (79-149Kč), which are served all day, there’s a sizeable selection of croque monsieurs, crepes, omelettes, burritos, and more. The local specialty is the “beer cocktail,” a mixtures of beer and either Coke, Sprite, or fruit syrup. Yikes.
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk down Americká. The cafe is on the right at the square with the dinosaur fountain. Croques monsieur 65-95Kč. Coffee 36-76Kč. Beer 26-45Kč. Open M-Th 8am-11pm, F 8am-late, Sa 10am-late, Su 10am-11pm. Kitchen closes at 10pm.
Banditos
MEXICAN $$
Melounová 2
224 941 096; www.banditosrestaurant.cz
Nominally Mexican, Banditos seems to be more concerned with appealing to American expats and tourists than nailing the whole Mexico thing. That’s not necessarily a bad thing—in addition to tacos, you also get sandwiches and burgers (including “Coronary Bypass” with fried egg, bacon, cheese, and mayo; 255Kč). The best time to come is the happy hour, which offers some really good deals: tacos for 30Kč, nachos for 50Kč, or ribs for 50Kč.
C: I.P. Pavlova. From the station, head left down Ječná. Fork left at Kateřinská, then take the 1st right onto Melounová. Free Wi-Fi. Sandwiches and burgers 170-215Kč. Mexican dishes 165-270Kč. Open daily 9am-1am. Happy hour 4:30-6:30pm.
U Bulínů
CZECH $$
Budečská 2
224 254 676; www.ubulinu.cz
Following the quintessentially Czech tradition of fabricated history, this restaurant has a story of its own. The gist is that the original owners made a deal with Satan to be able to make devilishly good food, after which they grew horns. If you’re not in the mood for local food, try the popular cheeseburger, made from Uruguay beef (169Kč). There’s also very little smoke in this place: it’s one of the few restaurants in Prague that has banned smoking.
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk southeast down Francouzská. The restaurant is 3 blocks down on the corner. Czech entrees 130-250Kč. Lunch menu 89Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm.
There are no big supermarkets in Holešovice, but there’s a grocery on every other corner. For cheap Vietnamese food, try the Prague Market.
Ouky Douky
CAFE $
Janovského 14
266 711 531; www.oukydouky.cz
A favorite of expats, Ouky Douky is a one-stop shop—restaurant, used book store, internet cafe, and Cuban cigars (20-300Kč). Sit down and get one of their crunchy baguettes, or just browse through the English-language section (it’s no Barnes & Noble, but there might be one or two good finds).
C: Vltavská. From the Metro, take tram 1 or 25 or walk along the tracks on Bubenské for 1 stop to Strossmayerovo náměstí. Facing the church, take a left onto Janovského. The cafe is to the right. Breakfast 98-148Kč. Sandwiches 86-126Kč. Coffee 29-39Kč. Internet 65Kč per hr. Cash only. Open daily 8am-midnight.
La Crêperie
CREPERIE $
Janovského 4
220 878 040; www.lacreperie.cz
Many cafes in Prague will fix you a crepe, but they are the specialty at this French-owned joint. Come for almost 50 kinds of savory galettes and sweet crepes, or design your own crepe-monster from the list of ingredients. French music plays in its underground rooms and the walls are covered with black and white photos, but La Crêperie is cozy and unpretentious.
C: Vltavská. From the Metro, take tram 1 or 25 or walk along the tracks for 1 stop, to Strossmayerovo náměstí. Turn left just past St. Antonín Church and walk past the tea shop. La Crêperie will be to the left. Crepes 35-85Kč. Galettes 40-100Kč. Cash only. Open daily 9am-11pm.
Zlatá Kovadlina
CZECH, BOWLING $$
Komunardů 36
246 005 313; www.zlatakovadlina.com
Bowling and eating, two pastimes of the wise and lazy man, are ingeniously combined in this underground restaurant. The cuisine is traditional Czech, so you can nibble on your pork fillet or whatnot while taking advantage of one of the four bowling lanes. If you don’t plan on bowling, another traditional Czech restaurant, friendly Korbel, is just a few meters down the street. (Komunardů 30 222 986 095; www.restauracekorbel.cz).
C: Vltavská. From the station, take tram 1, 3, 5, or 25 or walk along the tram tracks for 3 stops to Dělnická. Continue for 1½ blocks; the restaurant is on the right. Entrees 79-199Kč. Beer 17-32Kč. Bowling 260-360Kč per person per hr. Open M-Th 11am-11pm, F 11am-midnight, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-10pm. Lanes open daily 2pm-midnight.
Long Tale Café
CAFE $
Osadní 35
266 310 701; www.longtalecafe.cz
A frequent haunt of architects and people returning from DOX (see Sights), this cafe manages to hover somewhere on the border between industrial and domestic. Housed in a building that used to be a ham factory (we couldn’t make this stuff up), Long Tale now serves mostly bagels, baguettes, and panini, but you can also try their homemade ginger lemonade (55Kč). If you’re coming from DOX and you’re not tired of art, check out either of the two galleries that share the courtyard with Long Tale.
C: Vltavská. From the station, take tram 1, 3, 5, or 25 or walk along the tram tracks for 3 stops to Dělnická. Take a left onto Dělnická and a right at Osadní. The cafe is inside the courtyard to the left. Breakfast 35-55Kč. Baguettes and panini 70-79Kč. Coffee 35-50Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 9am-6pm.
Molo 22
INTERNATIONAL $$
U Průhonu 22
220 563 348; www.molo22.cz
One of the classier joints in this part of town, Molo 22 has a menu that might surprise: you’ll probably see something pedestrian like svíčková na smotaně (sirloin in cream) alongside such exotic dishes as jumbo tiger prawns. The offerings change every three months, and the restaurant does not commit to any particular cuisine, so when it comes to the menu during your visit, your guess is as good as ours. The interior is chic, and it’s a good place to enjoy a glass of wine.
C: Vltavská. From the station, take tram 1, 3, 5, or 25 or walk along the tram tracks for 3 stops to Dělnická. Continue down Komunardů, then turn left on U Průhonu; the restaurant is on the left. Entrees 159-297Kč. Desserts 79-95Kč. Cocktails 99-145Kč. Open M-F 8am-midnight, Sa-Su 9am-midnight.
Lucky Luciano II
ITALIAN $$
Dělnická 28
220 875 900; www.luckyluciano.cz
Named after the father of modern organized crime, this Czechowned pizzeria is a solid joint geared toward the locals. On a sunny day, not a soul sits in Lucky Luciano—they’re all outside under the giant covered patio. Pizzas are large enough for two but delicious enough for more, so keep leftovers close enough that you can slap away would-be scavengers. If you come during the happy hour (3-5pm), you can take advantage of the 30% discount on all pizzas. Lucky Luciano also offers some heavyweight steaks.
C: Vltavská. From the station, take tram 1, 3, 5, or 25 or walk along the tram tracks for 3 stops to Dělnická. Turn left onto Dělnická, the pizzeria is to the left. Pizza 105-150Kč. Pasta 115-145Kč. Beer 23-35Kč. Open M-F 11am-11pm, Sa-Su 11:30am-11pm. Garden open M-F 11am-10pm, Sa-Su 11:30am-10pm.
Even though it’s not very touristy, Dejvice has its share of Western fast-food chains and exotic restaurants. Don’t expect rural prices, but there are a few good deals that can’t be found closer to the center.
Kulaťák
CZECH $$
Vítězné náměstí 12
773 973 037; www.kulatak.cz
This young restaurant has already managed to earn the affection of Czech superman Václav Havel, who has a table reserved in the back of the non-smoking section. We recommend the cheap lunch menus (75-99Kč) and the tank beer.
A: Dejvická. The restaurant is on the eastern side of the large roundabout. Entrees 149-249Kč. Desserts 65-89Kč. Beer 24-39Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Café Technika
CAFE $
Technická 6
777 568 658; www.cafe-technika.cz
Housed in the futuristic National Technical Library, this university cafe has an industrial, modern feel. When you come here, take advantage of the cheap Kofola (24Kč), the socialist replacement for Coca Cola that’s outrageously overpriced in most restaurants in Prague today. Indian lunches, Mamacoffee coffee, and outdoor seating make this a student favorite.
A: Dejvická. From the roundabout, walk northwest through the park that’s opposite Dejvická. Continue up Technická until you reach the National Technical Library. DJs and live music Th-Sa. Lunch 80-115Kč. Coffee 29-61Kč. Beer 21-34Kč. Open daily 9am-11pm.
Vegetka
VEGETARIAN, ASIAN $
Kafkova 16
773 588 518
Vegetka is a Buddhist vegetarian restaurant that serves Chinese, Vietnamese, and Thai dishes (this last category proved too spicy for Czech customers and had to be watered down). It’ll be hard not to like tofu after you’ve eaten here. The “special soup” is especially noteworthy and stocked with noodles, mushrooms, and coriander, along with some secret ingredients.
A: Dejvická. From the roundabout, walk southeast on Dejvická, take the 1st right onto Kafkova, then take the 1st left. The restaurant is on the left. Entrees 60-140Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 10:30am-9pm, Sa 11am-9pm.
Dejvická Čajovna
TEA, HOOKAH $
V.P. Čkalova 12
776 792 701; www.dejvicka-cajovna.cz
Since you’re already so far off the tourist track, we’ll have you do something that only locals tend to do—go to a tea room. A favorite among young people who don’t need alcohol to have fun, Dejvická Čajovna has candlelit rooms, soft cushions, and teas from around the world. The menu is only in Czech, but the staff will help you choose. The interior tries to look oriental but still has a bit of the socialist, run-down thing going on—the best way to get over it is to become absorbed in a long conversation with friends.
A: Dejvická. From the roundabout, walk southeast on Dejvická, then take the 3rd left onto V.P. Čkalova. The tea room is on the right. Tea 55-115Kč. Hookah 89-139Kč. Cash only. Open M-F noon-11:30pm, Sa-Su noon-2am.
Perpetuum
DUCK $$$
Na Hutích 9
233 323 429; www.restauraceperpetuum.cz
As the duck statues scattered around the interior indicate, this high-end restaurant serves only dishes made from home-bred duck. (Desserts, thankfully, are an exception.) Specialties include foie gras (250Kč) and duck stuffed with pomegranate paste (310Kč). If you came to enjoy duck meat in Czech Republic and have some spending power, Perpetuum is an interesting place to go.
A: Dejvická. From the roundabout, walk on Dejvická and turn left onto Na Hutích. Appetizers 130-250Kč; entrees 230-390Kč. Open daily 11:30am-11pm.