Using a Mobile Phone in Europe
Map: Public Transportation Routes in Scotland
Map: How to Navigate a Roundabout
Before your trip, start with the Visit Scotland website, which contains a wealth of knowledge on destinations, activities, accommodations, and transport in Scotland (www.visitscotland.com).
In Scotland, a good first stop is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). Officially called Visit Scotland Information Centres, these are all operated by the national tourist board (look for the purple signs). Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so try to pick up maps and printed information for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip.
Other Helpful Websites for Scotland: To learn more about places around Scotland, see www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk. For hiking advice, see www.walkhighlands.co.uk.
Time Zones: Britain, which is one hour earlier than most of continental Europe, is five/eight hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Britain and Europe “spring forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “fall back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, see www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: Most stores are open Monday through Saturday (roughly 9:00 or 10:00 to 17:00 or 18:00). In cities, some stores stay open later on Wednesday or Thursday (until 19:00 or 20:00).
Watt’s Up? Britain’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with three square prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.
Discounts: Discounts (called “concessions” or “concs” in Britain) for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 60 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only for British citizens.
Dial 999 or 112 for police help or a medical emergency. If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacy and see a “chemist” (pharmacist) for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know of the nearest medical and emergency services.
To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to a US embassy (see later). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them. If your things are lost or stolen, file a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). In Britain, to make a collect call to the US, dial 0-800-89-0011. Press zero or stay on the line for an operator. European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard. If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
US Consulate in Edinburgh: 3 Regent Terrace, Mon-Fri 8:30-17:00, closed Sat-Sun, tel. 0131/556-8315; after-hours tel. 020/7499-9000, https://uk.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulates/edinburgh
Canadian Consulate in Edinburgh: Mobile 0770-235-9916 (business hours); after hours call the High Commission of Canada in London at tel. 020/7004-6000, www.unitedkingdom.gc.ca
Here’s my basic strategy for using money in Europe:
• Upon arrival, head for a cash machine (ATM) at the airport and withdraw some local currency, using a debit card with low international transaction fees.
• Pay for most purchases with a credit card with low (or no) international fees.
• Use cash for small purchases, tips, and transit fares.
• Keep your cards and cash safe in a money belt.
I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Debit Card: Use at ATMs to withdraw local cash.
Credit Card: Use to pay for most items (at hotels, larger shops and restaurants, travel agencies, car-rental agencies, and so on).
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank), in case one gets lost, demagnetized, eaten by a temperamental machine, or simply doesn’t work.
US Dollars: I carry $100-200 US dollars as a backup. While you won’t use it for day-to-day purchases, American cash in your money belt comes in handy for emergencies, such as if your ATM card stops working.
What NOT to Bring: Resist the urge to buy pounds before your trip or you’ll pay the price in bad stateside exchange rates. Wait until you arrive to withdraw money.
Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one and allow time to receive the information by mail.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can take out daily and ask for a higher daily withdrawal limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts; you’re unlikely to have access to your savings account.
Ask about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (1 percent).
Using Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Britain ask for a “cashpoint.” When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later—your bank’s network may be temporarily down.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure than a bank ATM, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see later).
Exchanging Cash: Avoid exchanging money in Europe; it’s a big rip-off. In a pinch you can always find exchange desks at major train stations or airports—convenient but with crummy rates.
Using Credit Cards: US cards no longer require a signature for verification, but don’t be surprised if a European card reader generates a receipt for you to sign. Some card readers will accept your card as is; others may prompt you to enter your PIN (so it’s important to know the code for each of your cards). If a cashier is present, you should have no problems.
At self-service payment machines (transit-ticket kiosks, parking, etc.), results are mixed, as US cards may not work in unattended transactions. If your card is rejected, look for a cashier who can process your card manually—or pay in cash.
Drivers Beware: Be aware of potential problems using a credit card to fill up at an unattended gas station, enter a parking garage, or exit a toll road. Carry cash and be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. When approaching a toll plaza, use the “cash” lane.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: Some European merchants and hoteliers cheerfully charge you for converting your purchase price into dollars. If it’s offered, refuse this “service.” You’ll pay extra for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars.
Tipping in Britain isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances.
Restaurants: If a service charge is included in the bill, it’s not necessary to tip. Otherwise, it’s appropriate to tip about 10-12 percent for good service.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit, but not more than 10 percent (for instance, if the fare is £7.40, pay £8).
Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a pound or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your British souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of about 20 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than £30 worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme (although individual stores can require that you spend more). Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount on souvenirs.
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document (either an official VAT customs form, or the shop or refund company’s version of it). You’ll have to present your passport at the store. Get the paperwork done before you leave the shop to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour early before you need to check in to allow time to find the customs office—and to stand in line.
Collect your refund. Many merchants work with a service that has offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings. These services, which extract their own fee (usually around 4 percent), can refund your money immediately in cash or credit your card.
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Scotland’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see the “At a Glance” sidebars for major destinations in this book. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Bank Holiday Mondays in May and August. A list of holidays is on here. Check online for possible museum closures during your trip. Off-season, many museums have shorter hours.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: Be warned that you may not be allowed to enter if you arrive less than 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. Many sights have a security check, where you must open your bag or send it through a metal detector. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Audioguides and Apps: Many sights rent audioguides, which generally offer excellent recorded descriptions. If you bring your own earbuds, you can enjoy better sound. Museums and sights often offer free apps that you can download to your mobile device (check their websites).
Many sights in Scotland are managed by either Historic Scotland or the National Trust for Scotland. Each organization has a combo-deal that can save some money for busy sightseers.
Historic Scotland’s Explorer Pass covers its 77 properties, including Edinburgh Castle and Stirling Castle (£31/3 days out of any 5, £42/7 days out of any 14, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/explorer). This pass allows you to skip the ticket-buying lines at Edinburgh and Stirling castles.
Membership in the National Trust for Scotland covers more than 350 historic houses, manors, and gardens throughout Great Britain, including 100 properties in Scotland. From the US, it’s easy to join online through the Royal Oak Foundation, the National Trust’s American affiliate (one-year membership: $65 for one person, $95 for two, family and student memberships, www.royal-oak.org). For more on National Trust for Scotland properties, see www.nts.org.uk.
These days, the stereotype of “bad food in Britain” is woefully dated. Britain has caught up with the foodie revolution, and I find it’s easy to eat very well here.
Tipping: At pubs and places where you order at the counter, you don’t have to tip. At restaurants and fancy pubs with waitstaff, it’s standard to tip about 10-12 percent; you can add a bit more for finer dining or extra good service. Occasionally a service charge is added to your bill, in which case no additional tip is necessary—but this is rare in Scotland.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest the average price of a typical main course—but not necessarily a complete meal.
The dollar-sign categories also indicate the overall personality and “feel” of a place.
The traditional fry-up or full Scottish breakfast—generally included in the cost of your room—is famous as a hearty way to start the day. Also known as a “heart attack on a plate,” your standard fry-up comes with your choice of eggs, Canadian-style bacon and/or sausage, a grilled tomato, sautéed mushrooms, baked beans, and often haggis, black pudding, or a dense potato scone. Toast comes in a rack (to cool quickly and crisply) with butter and marmalade. Other options include porridge and sometimes pancakes or waffles. The meal is typically topped off with tea or coffee. Many B&B owners offer alternative, creative variations on the traditional breakfast.
Much as the full breakfast fry-up is a traditional way to start the morning, these days most places serve a healthier continental breakfast as well—with a buffet of yogurt, cereal, fruit, and pastries.
Scotland’s most unique dish, haggis, began as a peasant food. Waste-conscious cooks wrapped the heart, liver, and lungs of a sheep in its stomach lining, packed in some oats and spices, and then boiled the lot. Traditionally served with “neeps and tatties” (turnips and potatoes), haggis was forever immortalized thanks to Robbie Burns’ Address to a Haggis. To appreciate this iconic Scottish dish, think of how it tastes—not what it’s made of.
The king of Scottish black puddings (blood sausage) is made in the Hebrides Islands. Called Stornoway, it’s so famous that the European Union has granted it protected status. A mix of beef suet, oatmeal, onion, and blood, the sausage is usually served as part of a full Scottish breakfast.
Haggis—an acquired taste
Be on the lookout for other traditional Scottish taste treats. Cullen skink is Scotland’s answer to chowder: a hearty, creamy fish soup, often made with smoked haddock. A bridie (or Forfar bridie) is a savory meat pastry similar to a Cornish pasty. A Scotch pie—small, double-crusted, and filled with minced meat, is a good picnic food. Crowdie is a dairy spread that falls somewhere between cream cheese and cottage cheese.
And for dessert, cranachan is similar to a trifle, made with whipped cream, honey, fruit (usually raspberries), and whisky-soaked oats. Another popular dessert is the Tipsy Laird, essentially the same as a trifle but with whisky or brandy and Scottish raspberries.
Even in pricey cities, plenty of inexpensive choices are available.
I’ve found that portions are huge, and sharing plates is generally just fine. Ordering two drinks, a soup or side salad, and splitting a £10 meat pie can make a good, filling meal. If you’re on a limited budget, share a main course in a more expensive place for a nicer eating experience.
Pub grub is the most atmospheric budget option. You’ll usually get hearty lunches and dinners priced reasonably at £8-15 under ancient timbers (see “Pubs,” later).
Classier restaurants have some affordable deals. Lunch is usually cheaper than dinner; a top-end, £30-for-dinner-type restaurant often serves the same quality two-course lunch deals for about half the price.
Many restaurants have early-bird or pre-theater specials of two or three courses, often for a significant savings. They are usually available only before 18:30 or 19:00 (and sometimes on weekdays only).
Ethnic restaurants add spice to Britain’s cuisine scene. Eating Indian, Bangladeshi, Chinese, or Thai is cheap (even cheaper if you do takeout).
Fish-and-chips are a heavy, greasy, but tasty British classic. Every town has at least one “chippy” selling takeaway fish-and-chips in a cardboard box or (more traditionally) wrapped in paper for about £5-7.
Picnicking saves time and money. Fine park benches and polite pigeons abound in most towns and city neighborhoods.
Pubs are a fundamental part of the British social scene, and whether you’re a teetotaler or a beer guzzler, they should be a part of your travel here. Smart travelers use pubs to eat, drink, get out of the rain, watch sporting events, and make new friends.
Though hours vary, pubs generally serve beer daily from 11:00 to 23:00, though many are open later, particularly on Friday and Saturday. (Children are served food and soft drinks in pubs, but you must be 18 to order a beer.) As it nears closing time, you’ll hear shouts of “Last orders.” Then comes the 10-minute warning bell. Finally, they’ll call “Time!” to pick up your glass, finished or not, when the pub closes.
A cup of darts is free for the asking. People go to a public house to be social. They want to talk. Get vocal with a local. The pub is the next best thing to having relatives in town. Cheers!
Pub Grub: For £8-15, you’ll get a basic budget hot lunch or dinner in friendly surroundings. For something more refined, try a gastropub, which serves higher-quality meals for £12-20.) The Good Pub Guide is an excellent resource (www.thegoodpubguide.co.uk).
Pubs generally serve traditional dishes, such as fish-and-chips, roast beef with Yorkshire pudding (batter-baked in the oven), and assorted meat pies, such as steak-and-kidney pie or shepherd’s pie (stewed lamb topped with mashed potatoes) with cooked vegetables. Side dishes include salads, vegetables, and—invariably—“chips” (French fries). “Crisps” are potato chips. A “jacket potato” (baked potato stuffed with fillings of your choice) can almost be a meal in itself. A “ploughman’s lunch” is a traditional British meal of bread, cheese, and sweet pickles. These days, you’ll likely find more pasta, curried dishes, and quiche on the menu than traditional fare.
Meals are usually served from 12:00 to 14:00 and again from 18:00 to 20:00—with a break in the middle (rather than serving straight through the day). There’s generally no table service. Order at the bar, then take a seat. Either they’ll bring the food when it’s ready or you’ll pick it up at the bar. Pay at the bar (sometimes when you order, sometimes after you eat). It’s not necessary to tip unless it’s a place with full table service. For details on ordering beer and other drinks, see the “Beverages” section, later.
I know—you’re going to Britain to enjoy characteristic little hole-in-the-wall pubs, so mass-produced food is the furthest thing from your mind. But several excellent chains with branches across the UK offer long hours, reasonable prices, reliable quality, and a nice break from pub grub. My favorites are Pret (a.k.a. Pret à Manger) and Eat; other dependable chains include Côte Brasserie, Wagamama Noodle Bar, Byron Hamburgers, Ask, Pizza Express, Jamie’s Italian, and Yo!. Expect to see these familiar names wherever you go.
Carry-Out Chains: Major supermarket chains have smaller, offshoot branches that specialize in prepared foods to go. The most prevalent—and best—is M&S Simply Food (there’s one in every major train station). Sainsbury’s Local grocery stores also offer decent prepared food; Tesco Express and Tesco Metro run a distant third.
Eating Indian food is “going local” in cosmopolitan, multiethnic Britain. You’ll find Indian restaurants in most cities, and even in small towns. Take the opportunity to sample food from Britain’s former colony. Indian cuisine is as varied as the country itself. In general, it uses more exotic spices than British or American cuisine—some hot, some sweet. Indian food is very vegetarian-friendly, offering many meatless dishes. An easy way to taste a variety of dishes is to order a thali—a sampler plate, generally served on a metal tray, with small servings of various specialties.
While more of an English custom, afternoon tea is served in Scottish tearooms and generally includes a pot of tea, small finger foods (like sandwiches with the crusts cut off), homemade scones, jam, and thick clotted cream. A lighter “cream tea” gets you tea and a scone or two. Tearooms, which often serve appealing light meals, are usually open for lunch and close at about 17:00, just before dinner.
To the British, the traditional word for dessert is “pudding,” although it’s also referred to as “sweets” these days.
Trifle is the best-known British concoction, consisting of sponge cake soaked in brandy or sherry (or orange juice for children), then covered with jam and/or fruit and custard cream. Whipped cream can sometimes put the final touch on this “light” treat.
The British version of custard is a smooth, yellow liquid. Cream tops most everything that custard does not. There’s single cream for coffee. Double cream is really thick. Whipped cream is familiar, and clotted cream is the consistency of whipped butter.
Fool is a dessert with sweetened pureed fruit (such as rhubarb, gooseberries, or black currants) mixed with cream or custard and chilled.
Flapjacks here aren’t pancakes, but are dense, sweet oatmeal cakes (a little like a cross between a granola bar and a brownie). They come with toppings such as toffee and chocolate.
Beer: The British take great pride in their beer. Many locals think that drinking beer cold and carbonated, as Americans do, ruins the taste. Most pubs will have lagers (cold, refreshing, American-style beer), ales (amber-colored, cellar-temperature beer), bitters (hop-flavored ale, perhaps the most typical British beer), and stouts (dark and somewhat bitter, like Guinness).
At pubs, long-handled pulls (or taps) are used to draw the traditional, rich-flavored “real ales” up from the cellar. Served straight from the brewer’s cask at cellar temperature, real ales finish fermenting naturally and are not pasteurized or filtered, so they must be consumed within two or three days after the cask is tapped. Naturally carbonated, real ales vary from sweet to bitter, often with a hoppy or nutty flavor.
Short-handled pulls mean colder, fizzier, mass-produced, and less interesting keg beers. Mild beers are sweeter, with a creamy malt flavoring. Irish cream ale is a smooth, sweet experience. Try the draft cider (sweet or dry)...carefully.
Order your beer at the bar and pay as you go, with no need to tip. An average beer costs about £4. Part of the experience is standing before a line of hand pulls, and wondering which beer to choose.
As dictated by British law, draft beer and cider are served by the pint (20-ounce imperial size) or the half-pint (9.6 ounces). In 2011, the government sanctioned an in-between serving size—the schooner, or two-thirds pint (it’s become a popular size for higher alcohol-content craft beers). Proper English ladies like a shandy (half beer and half 7-Up).
Whisky is high on the experience list of most visitors to Scotland—even for teetotalers. Whether at a distillery, a shop, or a pub, be sure to try a few drams.
Types of Whisky: Scotch whiskies come in two broad types: “single malt,” from a single batch made by a single distiller; and “blends,” mixed and matched from various whiskies.
There are more than 100 distilleries in Scotland, each one proud of its unique qualities. The Lowlands, around Edinburgh, produce light and refreshing whiskies. Whiskies from the Highlands and Islands range from floral and sweet to smoky and robust. Speyside, southeast of Inverness, is home to half of all Scottish distilleries. Mellow and fruity, Speyside whiskies can be the most accessible for beginners. The Isle of Islay is just the opposite, specializing in the peatiest, smokiest whiskies. Only a few producers remain to distill the smoky and pungent Campbeltown whiskies in the southwest Highlands, near Islay.
Tasting Whisky: Tasting whisky is like tasting wine; you’ll use all your senses. First, swirl the whisky in the glass and observe its color and “legs”—the trail left by the liquid as it runs back down the side of the glass. Then take a deep sniff—do you smell smoke and peat? And finally, taste it (sip!). Swish it around and let your gums taste it, too. Adding a few drops of water is said to “open up the taste”—look for a little glass of water with a dropper standing by, and try tasting your whisky before and after.
Whisky: The easiest and perhaps best option for sampling Scotland’s national drink is to find a local pub with a passion for whisky that’s filled with locals who share that passion. Many pubs have dozens of whiskies available. For more about whisky, see the “Whisky 101” sidebar.
Nonalcoholic Drinks: Teetotalers can order from a wide variety of soft drinks—both the predictable American sodas and other more interesting bottled drinks, such as ginger beer (similar to ginger ale but with more bite), root beers, or other flavors (Fentimans brews some unusual options that are stocked in many pubs). The uniquely Scottish soft drink called Irn-Bru (pronounced “Iron Brew”) is bright orange and tastes like bubble gum. Note that in Britain, “lemonade” is lemon-lime soda (like 7-Up).
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. In Britain, small bed-and-breakfast places (B&Bs) generally provide the best value, though I also include some bigger hotels.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See here for a list of major holidays and festivals; for tips on making reservations, see here.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest an estimated cost for a one-night stay in a typical double room with a private toilet and shower in high season, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel.
While B&B prices tend to be fairly predictable, room rates are especially volatile at larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing” to set rates. Once your dates are set, check the specific price for your preferred stay at several hotels by comparing prices on Hotels.com or Booking.com, or by checking the hotels’ own websites.
Staying in B&Bs and small hotels can save money over sleeping in big hotels. Chain hotels can be even cheaper, but they don’t include breakfast. When comparing prices between chain hotels and B&Bs, remember you’re getting two breakfasts (about a £25 value) for each double room at a B&B.
In cities, you’ll find big, Old-World elegant hotels with modern amenities, as well as familiar-feeling business-class and boutique hotels no different from what you might experience at home. But you’ll also find hotels that are more uniquely European.
An “en suite” room has a bathroom (toilet and shower/tub) attached to the room; a room with a “private bathroom” can mean that the bathroom is all yours, but it’s across the hall. If you want your own bathroom inside the room, request “en suite.” If money’s tight, ask about a room with a shared bathroom. You’ll almost always have a sink in your room, and as more rooms go en suite, the hallway bathroom is shared with fewer guests.
Modern Hotel Chains: Chain hotels—common in bigger cities all over Great Britain—can be a great value (£60-100, depending on location and season). These hotels are about as cozy as a Motel 6, but they come with private showers/WCs, elevators, good security, and often an attached restaurant. Branches are often located near the train station, on major highways, or outside the city center.
This option is especially worth considering for families, as kids often stay for free. While most of these hotels have 24-hour reception and elevators, breakfast and Wi-Fi generally cost extra, and the service lacks a personal touch (at some, you’ll check in at a self-service kiosk).
Room rates change from day to day with volume and vary depending on how far ahead you book. The best deals generally must be prepaid a few weeks ahead and may not be refundable—read the fine print carefully. The biggest chains are Premier Inn (www.premierinn.com) and Travelodge (www.travelodge.co.uk). Both have attractive deals for prepaid or advance bookings. Other chains operating in Britain include the Irish Jurys Inn (www.jurysinns.com) and the French-owned Ibis (www.ibishotel.com). Couples can consider Holiday Inn Express, which generally allow only two people per room (make sure Express is part of the name or you’ll be paying more for a regular Holiday Inn, www.hiexpress.co.uk).
Arrival and Check-In: Many of my recommended hotels have three or more floors of rooms and steep stairs. Older properties often do not have elevators. If stairs are an issue, ask for a ground-floor room or choose a hotel with a lift (elevator). Air-conditioning isn’t a given (I’ve noted which of my listings have it), but most places have fans. On hot summer nights, you’ll want your window open—and in a big city, street noise is a fact of life. Bring earplugs or request a room on the back side. If you suspect night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a noisy pub), ask for a quieter room on an upper floor.
In Your Room: Note that all of Britain’s accommodations are nonsmoking. Electrical outlets may have switches that turn the current on or off; if your appliance isn’t working, flip the switch at the outlet.
To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
Breakfast: Your room cost usually includes a traditional full cooked breakfast (fry-up) or a lighter, healthier continental breakfast.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s there. That way you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
B&Bs and small hotels are generally family-run places with fewer amenities but more character than a conventional hotel. They range from large inns with 15-20 rooms to small homes renting out a spare bedroom. Places named “guesthouse” or “B&B” typically have eight or fewer rooms. The philosophy of the management determines the character of a place more than its size and amenities.
B&B proprietors are selective about the guests they invite in for the night. Many do not welcome children. If you’ll be staying for more than one night, you are a “desirable.” In popular weekend-getaway spots, you’re unlikely to find a place to take you for Saturday night only. If my listings are full, ask for guidance. Mentioning this book can help. Owners usually work together and can call up an ally to land you a bed. Many B&B owners are also pet owners. If you’re allergic, ask about resident pets when you reserve.
Rules and Etiquette: B&Bs and small hotels come with their own etiquette and quirks. Keep in mind that owners are at the whim of their guests—if you’re getting up early, so are they; if you check in late, they’ll wait up for you. Most B&Bs have set check-in times (usually in the late afternoon). If arriving outside that time, they will want to know when to expect you (call or email ahead). Most will let you check in earlier if the room is available (or they’ll at least let you drop off your bag).
Most B&Bs and guesthouses serve a hearty cooked breakfast of eggs and much more (for details on breakfast, see the Eating section, earlier). Because the owner is often also the cook, breakfast hours are usually abbreviated. It’s an unwritten rule that guests shouldn’t show up at the very end of the breakfast period and expect a full cooked breakfast.
B&Bs and small hotels often come with thin walls and doors, and sometimes creaky floorboards, which can make for a noisy night. If you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs. And please be quiet in the halls and in your rooms at night...those of us getting up early will thank you for it.
In the Room: Every B&B offers “tea service” in the room—an electric kettle, cups, tea bags, coffee packets, and a pack of biscuits.
Your bedroom probably won’t include a phone, but nearly every B&B has free Wi-Fi. However, the signal may not reach all rooms; you may need to sit in the lounge to access it.
You’re likely to encounter unusual bathroom fixtures. The “pump toilet” has a flushing handle or button that doesn’t kick in unless you push it just right: too hard or too soft, and it won’t go. (Be decisive but not ruthless.) Most B&B baths have an instant water heater. This looks like an electronic box under the showerhead with dials and buttons: One control adjusts the heat, while another turns the flow off and on (let the water run for a bit to moderate the temperature before you hop in). If the hot water doesn’t work, you may need to flip a red switch (often located just outside the bathroom). If the shower looks mysterious, ask your B&B host for help...before you take your clothes off.
Paying: Many B&Bs take credit cards, but may add the card service fee to your bill (about 3 percent). If you do need to pay cash for your room, plan ahead to have enough on hand when you check out.
A short-term rental—whether an apartment (or “flat”), house, or room in a local’s home—is an increasingly popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and even cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities.
Many places require a minimum night stay, and compared to hotels, rentals usually have less flexible cancellation policies.
Finding Accommodations: Aggregator websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and the HomeAway family of sites (HomeAway, VRBO, and VacationRentals) let you browse properties and correspond directly with European property owners or managers. If you prefer to work from a curated list of accommodations, consider using a rental agency such as InterhomeUSA.com or RentaVilla.com. Agency-represented apartments typically cost more, but this method often offers more help and safeguards than booking direct.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require you to pay the entire balance before your trip. It’s easiest and safest to pay through the site where you found the listing. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline to avoid fees; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
A hostel provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for about £20-30 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but not the towel (though you can usually rent one for a small fee). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking direct with the hostel. A few chains have multiple locations around Scotland, including MacBackpackers (www.scotlandstophostels.com); others are listed on the Scottish Independent Hostels website, with a fun variety of well-established places (www.hostel-scotland.co.uk).
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). In Scotland, these official hostels are run by the Scottish Youth Hostel Association (SYHA, also known as Hostelling Scotland, www.syha.org.uk). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or pay extra per night.
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer is: more easily and cheaply than you might think.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the tips below, such as connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible). Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone—either your US phone or one you buy in Europe. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. Each of these options is described below, and more details are at www.ricksteves.com/phoning. For a very practical one-hour talk covering tech issues for travelers, see www.ricksteves.com/mobile-travel-skills.
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. Using your cellular network in Europe on a pay-as-you-go basis can add up. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (T-Mobile’s does).
Before your trip, call your provider or check online to confirm that your phone will work in Europe, and research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, you’re best off saving most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. You can access the Internet, send texts, and even make voice calls over Wi-Fi.
Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi, but some—especially expensive hotels—charge a fee. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) have free hotspots for customers; look for signs offering it and ask for the Wi-Fi password when you buy something. You’ll also often find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can take lots of data, so do this sparingly or use it offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates apps. It’s smart to disable these features so your apps will only update when you’re on Wi-Fi.
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, Viber, FaceTime, and Google+ Hangouts are great for making free or low-cost voice and video calls over Wi-Fi. With an app installed on your phone, tablet, or laptop, you can log on to a Wi-Fi network and contact friends or family members who use the same service. If you buy credit in advance, with some of these services you can call any mobile phone or landline worldwide for just pennies per minute.
Many of these apps also allow you to send messages over Wi-Fi to any other person using that app.
With a European SIM card, you get a European mobile number and access to cheaper rates than you’ll get through your US carrier. This option works well for those who want to make a lot of voice calls or needing faster connection speeds than their US carrier provides. Fit the SIM card into a cheap phone you buy in Europe, or swap out the SIM card in an “unlocked” US phone.
Whether phoning from a US landline or mobile phone, or from a number in another European country, here’s how to make an international call. I’ve used one of my recommended London hotels as an example (tel. 020/7730-8191).
Initial Zero: Drop the initial zero from international phone numbers—except when calling Italy.
Mobile Tip: If using a mobile phone, the “+” sign can replace the international access code (for a “+” sign, press and hold “0”).
Dial 011 (US/Canada international access code), country code (44 for Britain), and phone number.
To call the London hotel from home, dial 011-44-20/7730-8191.
Dial 00 (Europe international access code), country code, and phone number.
To call the London hotel from Spain, dial 00-44-20/7730-8191.
Dial 00, country code (1 for US/Canada), and phone number.
To call from Europe to my office in Edmonds, Washington, dial 00-1-425-771-8303.
To call within Britain (from one British landline or mobile phone to another), simply dial the phone number, including the initial 0 if there is one.
To call the London hotel from Edinburgh, dial 020/7730-8191.
British Phone Numbers: Numbers beginning with 071 through 079 are mobile numbers, which are more expensive to call than a landline.
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: Numbers starting with 0800 and 0808 are toll-free. Those beginning with 084, 087, and 03 are generally inexpensive toll numbers (£0.15/minute from a landline, £0.20-.40/minute from a mobile). Numbers beginning with 09 are pricey toll lines. If you have questions about a prefix, call 100 for free help. International rates apply to US toll-free numbers dialed from Britain—they’re not free.
More Phoning Help: See www.howtocallabroad.com.
| European Country Codes | |
| Austria | 43 |
| Belgium | 32 |
| Bosnia-Herzegovina | 387 |
| Croatia | 385 |
| Czech Republic | 420 |
| Denmark | 45 |
| Estonia | 372 |
| Finland | 358 |
| France | 33 |
| Germany | 49 |
| Gibraltar | 350 |
| Great Britain | 44 |
| Greece | 30 |
| Hungary | 36 |
| Iceland | 354 |
| Ireland & N. Ireland | 353 / 44 |
| Italy | 39 |
| Latvia | 371 |
| Montenegro | 382 |
| Morocco | 212 |
| Netherlands | 31 |
| Norway | 47 |
| Poland | 48 |
| Portugal | 351 |
| Russia | 7 |
| Slovakia | 421 |
| Slovenia | 386 |
| Spain | 34 |
| Sweden | 46 |
| Switzerland | 41 |
| Turkey | 90 |
SIM cards are sold at mobile-phone shops, department-store electronics counters, some newsstands, and vending machines. Costing about $5-10, they usually include prepaid calling/messaging credit, with no contract and no commitment. Expect to pay $20-40 more for a SIM card with a gigabyte of data. If you travel with this card to other countries in the European Union, there may be extra roaming fees.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls—ask for rates before you dial. You can use a prepaid international phone card (available at post offices, newsstands, street kiosks, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel.
Public pay phones are hard to find in Britain, and they’re expensive. To use one, you’ll pay with a major credit card (minimum charge-£1.20) or coins (minimum charge-£0.60).
Most hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you may find them at Internet cafés or public libraries.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Go.”
The British postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com). For postcards, get stamps at the neighborhood post office, newsstands within fancy hotels, and some mini-marts and card shops.
In Scotland, I connect big cities (Edinburgh and Glasgow) by train or bus; but to explore rural areas (including most of the Highlands), I prefer to stay footloose and fancy-free with a rental car.
Regular tickets on Britain’s great train system (15,000 departures from 2,400 stations daily) are the most expensive per mile in all of Europe. For the greatest savings, book online in advance and leave after rush hour (after 9:30 weekdays).
Since Britain’s railways have been privatized, a single train route can be operated by multiple companies. However, one website covers all train lines (www.nationalrail.co.uk), and another covers all bus and train routes (www.traveline.org.uk for information, not ticket sales). Another good resource, which also has schedules for trains throughout Europe, is German Rail’s timetable (www.bahn.com).
While not required, reservations are free and can normally be made well in advance. They are an especially good idea for long journeys or for travel on Sundays or holidays. Make reservations at any train station, by phone, or online when you buy your ticket. With a point-to-point ticket, you can reserve as late as two hours before train time, but rail-pass holders should book seats at least 24 hours in advance.
A BritRail Pass lets you travel by train in Scotland, England, and Wales for three to eight days within a one-month period, 15 days within two months, or for continuous periods of up to one month. In addition, BritRail sells three different regional Scotland passes that are good for three to eight days of train travel within three, eight, or 15-day periods. Discounted rates are offered for children, youths, seniors, or for three or more people traveling together.
BritRail passes are best purchased outside Europe (through travel agents or Rick Steves’ Europe). For more on the ins and outs of rail passes, including prices, download my free guide to Eurail Passes (www.ricksteves.com/rail-guide) or go to www.ricksteves.com/rail.
If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, individual point-to-point train tickets may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.
Map shows approximate costs, in US$, for one-way, second-class tickets at off-peak rates.
Rail Passes: There are three different Scotland-only passes: Spirit of Scotland (covers most trains in Scotland), Central Scotland (Edinburgh/Glasgow area), and Scottish Highlands (Glasgow and points north). But for a Scotland-only itinerary, these probably won’t save you money over point-to-point tickets (particularly if you buy tickets in advance or use a discount Railcard—see later).
Especially if you travel between London and Scotland, consider the BritRail Pass (covers England, Scotland, and Wales). A rail pass offers hop-on flexibility and no need to lock in reservations, except for overnight sleeper cars.
BritRail passes cannot be purchased locally; buy your pass through an agent before leaving the US. Make sleeper reservations in advance; you can also make optional, free seat reservations (recommended for busy weekends) at staffed train stations. For specifics, see www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Buying Train Tickets in Advance: The best fares go to those who book their trips well in advance of their journey. To book ahead, go in person to any station, book online at www.nationalrail.co.uk, or call 0345-748-4950 (from the US, dial 011-44-20-7278-5240, phone answered 24 hours) to find out the schedule and best fare for your journey; you’ll then be referred to the appropriate vendor—depending on the particular rail company—to book your ticket. You’ll pick up your ticket at the station, or you may be able to print it at home.
Buying Train Tickets as You Travel: If you’d rather have the flexibility of booking tickets as you go, you can save a few pounds by buying a round-trip ticket, called a “return ticket” (a same-day round-trip, called a “day return,” is particularly cheap); buying before 18:00 the day before you depart; traveling after the morning rush hour (this usually means after 9:30 Mon-Fri); and going standard class instead of first class. Preview your options at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
Senior, Youth, Partner, and Family Deals: To get a third off the price of most point-to-point rail tickets, seniors can buy a Senior Railcard (ages 60 and up), younger travelers can buy a 16-25 Railcard (ages 16-25, or full-time students 26 and older), and two people traveling together can buy a Two Together Railcard (ages 16 and over). A Family and Friends Railcard gives adults about 33 percent off for most trips and 60 percent off for their kids ages 5 to 15 (maximum 4 adults and 4 kids). Each Railcard costs £30; see www.railcard.co.uk.
Most long-haul domestic routes in Scotland are operated by Scottish Citylink. In peak season, it’s worth booking your seat on popular routes at least a few days in advance (at the bus station or TI, online at www.citylink.co.uk, or by calling 0871-266-3333). At slower times, you can just hop on the bus and pay the driver. If you’re taking lots of buses, consider Citylink’s Explorer pass (£49/3 days in 5-day period, £74/5 days in 10-day period, £99/8 days in 16-day period).
Some regional routes are operated by Citylink’s Stagecoach service (www.stagecoachbus.com). If a Stagecoach bus runs the same route as a Citylink one—such as between Glencoe and Fort William—it’s likely cheaper (and maybe slower).
Longer-distance routes (especially those to England) are operated by National Express (tel. 0871-781-8181, www.nationalexpress.com) or Megabus (book far ahead for best discounts, toll tel. 0900-160-0900, www.megabus.com).
Rental companies in Britain require you to be at least 21 years old and to have held your license for one year. Drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young-driver surcharge, and some rental companies will not rent to anyone 75 or older.
Figure on paying roughly $250 for a one-week rental. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. It can be cheaper to use a consolidator, such as Auto Europe/Kemwel (www.autoeurope.com—or the often cheaper www.autoeurope.eu).
Always read the fine print or query the agent carefully for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
For the best deal, rent by the week with unlimited mileage. I normally rent the smallest, least expensive model with a stick shift (generally cheaper than automatic). Almost all rentals are manual by default, so if you need an automatic, request one in advance. An automatic makes sense for most American drivers: With a manual transmission in Britain, you’ll be sitting on the right side of the car, and shifting with your left hand...while driving on the left side of the road. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads.
Picking Up Your Car: If you pick up your car in a smaller city or at an airport (rather than downtown), you’ll more likely survive your first day on the road. Be aware that Brits call it “hiring a car,” and directional signs at airports and train stations will read Car Hire.
Compare pickup costs (downtown can be less expensive than the airport) and explore drop-off options. Always check the hours of the location you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When you pick up the rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Before driving off, find out how your car’s lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take pictures of the returned vehicle as proof of its condition.
The AA: The services of Britain’s Automobile Association are included with most rentals (www.theaa.com), but check for this when booking to be sure you understand its towing and emergency road-service benefits.
When you rent a car, you are liable for a very high deductible, sometimes equal to the entire value of the car. Limit your financial risk with one of these three options: Buy Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company, get coverage through your credit card (free, if your card automatically includes zero-deductible coverage), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW includes a very high deductible (typically $1,000-1,500), costs $15-30 a day (figure roughly 30-40 percent extra) and reduces your liability, but does not eliminate it. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you’ll technically have to decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company, which means they can place a hold on your card (which can be up to the full value of the car). In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges with your credit-card company. Before you decide on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
For more on car-rental insurance, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw.
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your mobile phone works fine for navigation in Europe, but for real-time turn-by-turn directions, alternate routes, and traffic updates, you’ll need mobile data access. And driving all day can burn through a lot of very expensive data. The economical workaround is to take your maps offline. By downloading in advance from Google Maps, Here WeGo, or Navmii, you can still have turn-by-turn voice directions and maps that recalibrate even though they’re offline.
Download your map before you head out—it’s smart to select a large region. Then turn off your data connection so you’re not charged for roaming. Call up the map, enter your destination, and you’re on your way. View maps in standard view (not satellite view) to limit data demands.
GPS Devices: If you prefer the convenience of a dedicated GPS unit, known as a “satnav” in Britain, consider renting one with your car ($10-30/day). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. Note that the unit may only come loaded with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask.
A less expensive option is to bring a GPS device from home. Be aware that you’ll need to buy and download European maps before your trip.
Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always make it a point to have a paper map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in when my phone runs out of juice. Several good road atlases cover all of Scotland. Ordnance Survey, Collins, AA, and Bartholomew editions are all available at tourist information offices, gas stations, and bookstores.
Driving here is basically wonderful—once you remember to stay on the left and after you’ve mastered the roundabouts. Every year, however, I get a few notes from traveling readers advising me that, for them, trying to drive in Britain was a nerve-racking and regrettable mistake.
Many Yankee drivers find the hardest part isn’t driving on the left, but steering from the right. Your instinct is to put yourself on the left side of your lane, which means you may spend your first day or two constantly drifting into the left shoulder. It can help to remember that the driver always stays close to the center line.
Road Rules: Be aware of Britain’s rules of the road. Seat belts are mandatory for all, and kids under age 12 (or less than about 4.5 feet tall) must ride in an appropriate child-safety seat. It’s illegal to use a mobile phone while driving. In Britain, you’re not allowed to turn left on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it. For more information about driving in Britain, ask your car-rental company or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, click on “International Travel,” then specify your country of choice and click “Traffic Safety and Road Conditions”).
Sheep have the right of way.
Speed Limits: Speed limits are in miles per hour: 30 mph in town, 70 mph on the motorways, and 60 or 70 mph elsewhere. The national sign for the maximum speed is a white circle with a black slash. Motorways have electronic speed limit signs; posted speeds can change depending on traffic or the weather.
Note that road-surveillance cameras strictly enforce speed limits. Any driver (including foreigners renting cars) photographed speeding will get a nasty bill in the mail. Signs (an image of an old-fashioned camera) alert you when you’re entering a zone that may be monitored by these “camera cops.” Heed them.
Roundabouts: Don’t let a roundabout spook you. After all, you routinely merge into much faster traffic on American highways back home. Traffic flows clockwise, and cars already in the roundabout have the right-of-way; entering traffic yields (look to your right as you merge). You’ll probably encounter “double-roundabouts”—figure-eights where you’ll slingshot from one roundabout directly into another. Just go with the flow and track signs carefully. When approaching an especially complex roundabout, you’ll first pass a diagram showing the layout and the various exits. And in many cases, the pavement is painted to indicate the lane you should be in for a particular road or town.
Freeways (Motorways): The shortest distance between any two points is usually the motorway (what we’d call a “freeway”). In Britain, the smaller the number, the bigger the road. For example, the M-8 is a freeway, while the B-8000 is a country road.
Motorway road signs can be confusing, too few, and too late. Miss a motorway exit and you can lose 30 minutes. Study your map before taking off. Know the cities you’ll be lacing together, since road numbers are inconsistent. British road signs are rarely marked with compass directions (e.g., A-9 North); instead, you need to know what major town or city you’re heading for (A-9 Inverness).
Unless you’re passing, always drive in the “slow” lane on motorways (the lane farthest to the left). Remember to pass on the right, not the left.
Rest areas are called “services” and often have a number of amenities, such as restaurants, cafeterias, gas stations, shops, and motels.
Fuel: Gas (petrol) costs about $5.50 per gallon and is self-serve. Pump first and then pay. Diesel costs about the same. Diesel rental cars are common; make sure you know what kind of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Unleaded pumps are usually green.
Driving in Cities: Whenever possible, avoid driving in cities. Most cities have modern ring roads to skirt the congestion. Follow signs to the parking lots outside the city core—most are a 5- to 10-minute walk to the center—and avoid what can be an unpleasant grid of one-way streets or roads that are restricted to public transportation during the day.
Driving in Rural Areas: Outside the big cities and except for the motorways, British roads tend to be narrow. Adjust your perceptions of personal space: It’s not “my side of the road” or “your side of the road,” it’s just “the road”—and it’s shared as a cooperative adventure. If the road’s wide enough, traffic in both directions can pass parked cars simultaneously, but frequently you’ll have to take turns—follow the locals’ lead and drive defensively.
Narrow country lanes are often lined with stone walls or woody hedges—and no shoulders. Some are barely wide enough for one car. Go slowly, and if you encounter an oncoming car, look for the nearest pullout (or “passing place”)—the driver who’s closest to one is expected to use it, even if it means backing up to reach it. If another car pulls over and blinks its headlights, that means, “Go ahead; I’ll wait to let you pass.”
Parking: Pay attention to pavement markings to figure out where to park. One yellow line marked on the pavement means no parking Monday through Saturday during work hours. Double yellow lines mean no parking at any time. Broken yellow lines mean short stops are OK, but you should always look for explicit signs or ask a passerby. White lines mean you’re free to park.
In towns, rather than look for street parking, I generally just pull into the most central and handy pay-and-display parking lot I can find. To pay and display, feed change into a machine, receive a timed ticket, and display it on the dashboard or stick it to the driver’s-side window. Most machines in larger towns accept credit cards with a chip, but it’s smart to keep coins handy for machines and parking meters that don’t.
In some municipalities, drivers will see signs for “disc zone” parking. This is free, time-limited parking. But to use it, you must obtain a clock parking disc from a shop and display it on the dashboard (set the clock to show your time of arrival). Return within the signed time limit to avoid being ticketed.
Some parking garages (a.k.a. car parks) are totally automated and record your license plate with a camera when you enter. The Brits call a license plate a “number plate” or just “vehicle registration.” The payment machine will use these terms when you pay before exiting.
The best comparison search engine for both international and intra-European flights is Kayak.com. An alternative is Google Flights, which has an easy-to-use system to track prices. For inexpensive flights within Europe, try Skyscanner.com.
Flying to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Off-season tickets can usually be purchased a month or so in advance. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient to fly into one city and out of another.
Haggis fans can fly home with Scotland’s organ-meat specialty.
Flying Within Europe: Several cheap, no-frills airlines affordably connect Scotland with other destinations in the British Isles and throughout Europe. If you’re considering a train ride that’s more than five hours long, a flight may save you both time and money. When comparing your options, factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and how early you’ll need to arrive to check in.
Well-known cheapo airlines that serve Scotland (primarily Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Inverness) include EasyJet, Ryanair, TUI, and Flybe.
But be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying with a discount airline: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal or nonexistent customer service, pricey and time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and stingy baggage allowances with steep overage fees. To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print before you book. These days you can also fly within Europe on major airlines affordably—and without all the aggressive restrictions—for around $100 a flight.
My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, photos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; my travel talks and blog; and guidebook updates (www.ricksteves.com/update).
Our Travel Forum is an immense collection of message boards, where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can help.
Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, planning maps, and more.
Choosing the right rail pass for your trip can drive you nutty. Our website will help you find the perfect fit for your itinerary and your budget: We offer easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets.
Books: Rick Steves Best of Scotland is just one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshot guides (excerpted chapters from my country guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on big cities), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. My phrase books are practical and budget-oriented. A more complete list of my titles appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with more than 100 half-hour episodes. To watch full episodes online for free, see www.ricksteves.com/tv. Or to raise your travel I.Q. with video versions of our popular classes (including my talks on travel skills, packing smart, most European countries, and European art), see www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
Audio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. A complete archive is available at www.soundcloud.com/rick-steves, and much of this audio content is available, along with my audio tours of Europe’s (and Spain’s) top sights, through my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app (see here).
Small-Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer tours with more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length, and you’ll enjoy great guides and a fun but small group of travel partners. For all the details, and to get our tour catalog, visit www.ricksteves.com or call us at 425/608-4217.
This list includes selected Scottish festivals plus national holidays observed throughout Scotland (and Great Britain). Many sights and banks close on national holidays—keep this in mind when planning your itinerary. Before planning a trip around a festival, verify the dates with the festival website, the Visit Scotland website (www.visitscotland.com), or my “Upcoming Holidays and Festivals in Scotland” webpage (www.ricksteves.com/europe/scotland/festivals).
| Jan 25 | Burns Night (poetry readings, haggis) |
| Early May | Early May Bank Holiday (first Mon) |
| Late May | Spring Bank Holiday (last Mon) |
| June | Edinburgh International Film Festival (www.royalhighlandshow.org) |
| Mid-June | Royal Highland Show, Edinburgh (www.royalhighlandshow.org) |
| July | Edinburgh Jazz and Blues Festival (www.edinburghjazzfestival.com) |
| Early Aug | Summer Bank Holiday (first Mon) |
| Aug | Edinburgh Military Tattoo (www.edintattoo.co.uk) |
| Aug | Edinburgh Fringe Festival (www.edfringe.com) |
| Aug | Edinburgh International Festival (www.eif.co.uk) |
| Late Aug | Cowal Highland Gathering, west of Glasgow in Dunoon |
| Early Sept | Braemar Gathering, north of Pitlochry (first Sat) |
| Oct | Royal National Mòd (http://ancomun.co.uk) |
| Nov 5 | Guy Fawkes Night (fireworks, bonfires, effigy-burning) |
| Nov 30 | St. Andrew’s Day (dancing and cultural events) and Bank Holiday (closest Monday) |
| Dec 24-26 | Christmas holidays |
| Dec 31-Jan 2 | Hogmanay (music, street theater, carnival, www.hogmanay.net) |
• In Europe, dates appear as day/month/year, so Christmas 2019 is 25/12/19.
• What Americans call the second floor of a building is the first floor in Scotland.
• On escalators and moving sidewalks, Scots keep the left “lane” open for passing. Keep to the right.
• To avoid the Scottish version of giving someone “the finger,” don’t hold up the first two fingers of your hand with your palm facing you. (It looks like a reversed victory sign.)
• And please...don’t call your waist pack a “fanny” pack.
Scotland uses the metric system for nearly everything. Weight and volume are typically calculated in metric: A kilogram is 2.2 pounds, and one liter is about a quart (almost four to a gallon). Temperatures are generally given in Celsius, although some newspapers also list them in Fahrenheit. Driving distances and speed limits are measured in miles. Beer is sold as pints, and a person’s weight is measured in stone.
1 stone = 14 pounds
1 Scottish pint = 1.2 US pints
1 schooner = 2/3 pint
1 imperial gallon = 1.2 US gallons or about 4.5 liters
When shopping for clothing, use these US-to-UK comparisons as general guidelines.
Women: For pants and dresses, add 4 (US 10 = UK 14). For blouses and sweaters, add 2. For shoes, subtract 2½ (US size 8 = UK size 5½)
Men: For clothing, US and UK sizes are the same. For shoes, subtract about ½ (US size 9 = UK size 8½)
First line, average daily high; second line, average daily low; third line, average days without rain. For more detailed weather statistics for destinations in this book (as well as the rest of the world), check www.wunderground.com.
Whether you’re traveling for five days or five weeks, you won’t need more than this. Pack light to enjoy the sweet freedom of true mobility.
5 shirts: long- & short-sleeve
2 pairs pants (or shirts/capris)
1 pair shorts
5 pairs underwear & socks
1 pair walking shoes
Sweater or warm layer
Rainproof jacket with hood
Tie, scarf, belt, and/or hat
Swimsuit
Sleepwear/loungewear
Debit card(s)
Credit card(s)
Hard cash (US $100-200)
Money belt
Passport
Ticket & confirmations: flights, hotels, trains, rail pass, car rental, sight entries
Driver’s license
Student ID, hostel card, etc.
Photocopies of important documents
Insurance details
Guidebooks & maps
Basics: soap, shampoo, toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, deoderant, sunscreen, brush/comb, etc.
Medicines & vitamins
First-aid kit
Glasses/contacts/sunglasses (with prescriptions)
Sewing kit
Packet of tissues (for WC)
Earplugs
Mobile phone
Camera & related gear
Tablet/ebook reader/laptop
Headphones/earbuds
Chargers & batteries
Phone car charger & mount (or GPS device)
Plug adapters
Daypack
Sealable plastic baggies
Laundry supplies: soap, laundry bag, clothesline, spot remover
Small umbrella
Travel alarm/watch
Notepad & pen
Journal
Second pair of shoes (flip-flops, sandals, tennis shoes, boots)
Travel hairdryer
Picnic supplies
Water bottle
Fold-up tote bag
Small flashlight
Mini binoculars
Small towel or washcloth
Inflatable pillow/neck rest
Tiny lock
Address list (to mail postcards)
Extra passport photos
