RISK AND ITS REWARDS

A LITTLE ADRENALINE EVERY DAY
KEEPS THE BOREDOM AWAY.

When I was 10, my step father took me to Waimea Falls on Oahu. I walked to the edge of a 60-foot cliff, and when he looked away, I jumped. For whatever reason, from the start it’s been in my spirit to do those kinds of things. I’ve always wanted to jump from the highest place, experience the greatest thrill.

I may be an extreme case, but we all need to take risks. I think it goes back to our primitive state, our deepest DNA, when we were hunters and had to avoid getting eaten by large animals. Survival meant risk. The need for adventure is part of human nature. It’s in every cell of our bodies. When some people hear the word risk, they think of life-or-death situations that they’d rather avoid. But risk doesn’t always have to be life threatening. It can be as simple as putting yourself in an unfamiliar situation.

Some people don’t need to go out of their way to seek risk. If you live in Afghanistan, for instance, you’re not in need of any extra uncertainty. But for those of us who are fortunate enough to live in places where our lives are relatively safe, I think if we challenged ourselves—even scared ourselves—once a day, we’d be better people. It helps to have that little jolt of perspective to remind you that life’s fragile.

The distinction between being courageous and being reckless is an important one. “Courageous” means you’re able to calculate what you’re doing. In my life I’ve taken calculated risks, as well as inadvertent risks. I’ve seen 18-foot-long tiger sharks in the water with me; I’ve been trapped under waterfalls. My mom was surprised that I made it to my 20th birthday. I guess it’s the whole nine lives thing. There were a few close calls, but I’m still here. I’ve got a few of those nine lives left.

Teahupoo, Tahiti
August 17, 2000