Throughout the year, on all but the rainiest weekends, the scent of smoking meat is a constant in our Atlanta neighborhood, where firing up smokers has become somewhat of a spectator sport. Tom is definitely a member of Team Big Green Egg, especially because most of the time, he can put something on the smoker early in the morning, check on it occasionally, and still manage to get in some other manly sport. However, he assures me that if you are not a competitive smoker, you can still produce a quality smoked pork butt simply by baking it in a covered Dutch oven at 300°F. For a four- to six-pound roast, figure on three to four hours, or until the meat is fork-tender. We like to serve our pulled pork with a riff on the bottled sauce from Johnny Harris, a restaurant in Savannah that closed last year after ninety-two years in business. Johnny Harris was our date-night destination when we were newlyweds living on a tight budget, and where for years a group of Savannah Morning News alums met for lunch. The sauce recipe makes a bunch—about 10 to 12 cups—so pour it into sterilized bottles or jars and keep or share.
For the pork butt:
1 (4- to 6-lb.) pork butt or shoulder
1 cup Dry Rub (recipe follows)
12 sandwich buns
For the barbecue sauce:
6 cups ketchup
6 cups apple cider vinegar
1 (10-oz.) bottle Worcestershire sauce
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
⅔ cup dry mustard
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
6 Tbsp. freshly ground pepper
¼ cup hot sauce (we tested with Texas Pete)
3 Tbsp. sea salt
1. Prepare a charcoal fire in a smoker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Place the water pan in the smoker; add water to the depth of the fill line. Regulate the temperature with a thermometer to between 230°F and 260°F for 10 minutes.
2. Rub the pork butt with the Dry Rub. Place on the upper food grate and close the smoker. Smoke for 4 to 6 hours, or until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest portion registers 200°F.
3. Remove the pork from the smoker, cover with foil, and let rest for 30 minutes.
4. To make the barbecue sauce, combine all the ingredients in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until thickened.
5. Pull the meat into pieces using two forks. Serve on the buns topped with desired amount of barbecue sauce. Refrigerate extra sauce for up to three months.