Stock up and hunker down with cabbages and kale. Add grains and beans, and don’t forget all those interesting condiments you’ve collected in your pantry.
Cold-Weather Crudités with Seeded Yogurt Dip
Slightly Spicy Carrots with Buckwheat Honey
Broccoli Rabe with Roasted Oyster Mushrooms
Red Cabbage and Chickpeas with a Kick
Caramelized Endives and Gem Lettuces with Sheep’s-Milk Cheese and Black Olives
Black-Eyed Peas with Blood Oranges and Chipotle
Korean Rice Cakes with Kimchi Dressing and Crispy Shallots
Acorn Squash with Green Olives and Curry Dressing
Cold-Weather Crudités with Seeded Yogurt Dip
Serves 6 to 8
Seeded Yogurt Dip
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1½ teaspoons caraway seeds
½ teaspoon black sesame seeds
3 cups plain yogurt
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 to 4 pounds vegetables, including broccoli, cauliflower, and/or Romanesco, separated into florets; beets, white Japanese turnips, and/or small kohlrabi, scrubbed and trimmed; and medium carrots, trimmed
1 large Granny Smith apple, cored and cut into thick wedges
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Oven-charred winter vegetables and fruit, slightly softened but still a bit crunchy, make a welcome change from cut-up raw vegetables when there’s a chill in the air. You’ll need about ¾ pound untrimmed produce per person.
1. Make the yogurt dip: Toast all the seeds together in a dry skillet over medium heat for a minute or two, tossing occasionally, until fragrant; do not allow them to burn. Remove from the heat.
2. Put the yogurt in a serving bowl and add the toasted seeds. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil and let sit for about 30 minutes to allow the flavors to blend, then refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to serve.
3. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
4. Arrange the broccoli, cauliflower, Romanesco, and apple on a sheet pan and toss with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cut the beets, turnips, carrots, and kohlrabi lengthwise in half, or into quarters if large. Spread them out on a second sheet pan, drizzle with the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, and toss to coat. If using red beets, place them on a piece of foil, with the edges folded up to form a rim, to keep their juices from staining the other root vegetables. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Roast the broccoli, cauliflower, Romanesco, and apple for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them halfway through. Roast the root vegetables for 15 to 20 minutes, turning them halfway through. The vegetables (and apple) should be slightly softened but still crisp and browned in spots. Let cool to room temperature.
6. Arrange the vegetables in groups on a serving platter or board. Serve with the chilled yogurt dip on the side.
Slightly Spicy Carrots with Buckwheat Honey
Serves 4
1 pound good-size carrots, trimmed and peeled
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons buckwheat honey
1 tablespoon boiling water
1 bunch of chives, cut into 1-inch lengths
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
½ cup salted dry-roasted peanuts
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Shichimi togarashi (see here)
This dish is a wonderful introduction to a favorite and versatile spice blend: Japanese shichimi togarashi, a mix that includes chile flakes, sesame seeds, and dried orange or tangerine zest. A little jar comes with me wherever I go.
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, cut the carrots into 1- to 1½-inch-long wedges (see Quick Cut). Add the carrots to the boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes, until tender but not soft. Drain and place in a bowl.
2. Pour the olive oil over the carrots, then add the honey and the 1 tablespoon boiling water and toss to combine. Toss in the chives, lemon zest and juice, and peanuts. Season with salt and pepper and togarashi to taste, toss to combine, and serve.
meet the ingredient
Buckwheat Honey
Buckwheat honey is dark and rich, with a distinct savory flavor—an interesting contrast to lighter honeys. It’s intense, so a little goes a long way. Try it in your morning yogurt with granola or even on pancakes; it’s also great with pork.
Roll-Cutting Carrots
To get polished-looking wedge-shaped pieces out of a plain old fat carrot:
Hold a sharp knife at a 45-degree angle to the carrot and cut off a 1- to 1½-inch-long piece.
Roll the carrot a quarter turn away from you and, again at an angle, cut off another piece.
Continue in this fashion until you reach the end of the carrot.
Broccoli Rabe with Roasted Oyster Mushrooms
Serves 4
1 pound oyster mushrooms
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon chile flakes
3 anchovy fillets packed in olive oil, drained and roughly chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch of broccoli rabe, thick stems removed, rinsed, and excess water shaken off
1 large lemon, halved
Oyster mushrooms soak up the classic Italian flavors here like little sponges. The anchovies add depth, and they virtually disappear when sautéed.
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper. Cut the center cores out of the mushroom clusters and separate the mushrooms into “petals.” Scatter them evenly over one lined pan and sprinkle with the thyme leaves. Roast the mushrooms for about 8 minutes, or until browned in parts, crisp, and somewhat dry. Transfer to a bowl.
3. Meanwhile, pour the olive oil into a small skillet set over medium-low heat, add the garlic, chile flakes, and anchovies, and sauté until the oil starts to bubble and the garlic just starts to lightly color. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the contents into a small heatproof bowl. Spoon 6 tablespoons of the mixture over the warm mushrooms, toss to coat, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Arrange the broccoli rabe on the second lined sheet pan, stems facing outward. Spoon the remaining 6 tablespoons anchovy-garlic oil over it and roast for about 5 minutes, until the broccoli is wilted but still bright green. The greens will get a little crispy in the oven.
5. Arrange the broccoli rabe alongside the roasted mushrooms on a serving platter, squeeze the juice of the lemon over the top, and serve.
More Uses for Roasted Oyster Mushrooms
• Scattered over warm polenta, along with shaved Parmesan and toasted pine nuts
• As a topping for your favorite melted cheese on toast
• As a cocktail snack on toothpicks, or alongside jarred or homemade pickled vegetables, olives, and spiced nuts
now you know
Oven-Blanching
Most sturdy greens can be lightly oiled and salted, then briefly “blanched” on a sheet pan in a 400°F oven. The dry heat of the hot oven crisps and wilts them at the same time, providing a broader range of textures than the usual parboil or sauté.
Serves 4
2 teaspoons caraway seeds
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1½ teaspoons honey
¼ cup flavorless vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup sauerkraut
3 cups thinly sliced Savoy or other green cabbage
½ unpeeled small red apple
3 tablespoons pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped
Scant ¼ cup raisins
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cabbage two ways—raw and fermented—is a study in contrasts: mild and punchy, crunchy and tender.
1. Make the dressing: Combine the caraway seeds, vinegar, and honey in the bowl of a food processor or in a blender and pulse to combine. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil and process until the mixture is emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The dressing keeps for about 5 days in a covered container in the fridge.
2. Drain the sauerkraut in a colander, pressing down to remove excess liquid. Turn it out into a large bowl and add the cabbage. Add the dressing and thoroughly mix the ingredients together, rubbing the sauerkraut into the cabbage with your fingers.
3. Cut the apple into ¼-inch-thick slices (see Quick Cut, here). Add the apples to the dressed cabbage, along with the pecans and the raisins. Toss again, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.
Variation
Cabbage and Kimchi
Substitute 1 cup red kimchi for the sauerkraut. Drain the kimchi, reserving the liquid, and chop. Use half an Asian pear instead of the apple. Omit the pecans. Instead of the caraway dressing, whisk 2 or 3 tablespoons of the kimchi liquid with a few drops of toasted sesame oil and a teaspoon of toasted black sesame seeds. Use goji berries instead of raisins.
Red Cabbage and Chickpeas with a Kick
Serves 4
3 large scallions
2 cups cooked or canned drained chickpeas
12 ounces red cabbage, trimmed of outer leaves, cored, and thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
¾ cup Spicy Tahini Dressing (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, toasted
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon, cut into wedges, for garnish
This earthy slaw gets its heat from a harissa-spiked tahini dressing, which makes more than you need for this recipe. It’s addictive as a dip for raw vegetables, or spooned alongside roasted ones.
1. Trim the scallions and slice them about ¼ inch thick, cutting the white parts straight across and the green parts on the diagonal; keep them separate.
2. Pour the chickpeas into a large bowl. Add the cabbage and the white parts of the scallions and toss to combine. Add the dressing, sesame seeds, and lemon juice and mix thoroughly. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and scatter the scallion greens on top. Garnish with the lemon wedges.
Spicy Tahini Dressing
Makes 1¾ cups
1 cup roasted tahini (stir well before measuring), at room temperature
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 small garlic clove (optional)
¾ cup water
1 teaspoon harissa, or to taste (brands vary in concentration and spiciness)
¼ teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
Combine the tahini, lemon zest and juice, garlic, if using, and water in the bowl of a food processor or in a blender and process to combine. Check the consistency—it should be thin enough to toss with the cabbage; add another tablespoon or two of water if needed. Add the harissa and salt and process until smooth. The dressing keeps for several days in a covered container in the refrigerator.
MEET THE INGREDIENT
Tahini
Tahini, otherwise known as sesame paste, is available in any supermarket, but for something special, look for an artisanal tahini such as Seed + Mill. The consistency varies from brand to brand, but any tahini tends to separate and needs to be stirred before measuring. Once opened, it should be stored in the refrigerator.
Serves 4
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
8 ounces sunchokes, scrubbed well and trimmed of dark spots
2 large endives
6 pitted dates, cut lengthwise into slivers
½ cup shelled pistachios, toasted and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon capers
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fresh lemon juice, sweet dates, and salty capers enliven this light, crisp slaw.
1. Whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil in a bowl large enough to hold the rest of the ingredients.
2. Slice the sunchokes about ¼ inch thick, then stack the slices and cut into matchsticks about ¼ inch thick. Add to the lemon dressing and toss well to prevent discoloration.
3. Trim the root ends off the endives and slice them lengthwise into strips about ¼ inch thick, separating any leaves that are still attached together. Add to the bowl along with the dates, 6 tablespoons of the pistachios, and the capers. Toss well and season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the reserved nuts on top and serve.
Choose-Your-Style Kale Salad
Serves 4
1 pound kale
About 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, depending on the stiffness of your kale
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste, depending on the saltiness of the cheese you use
Everyone’s favorite superfood combined with a salty cheese of your choice is as healthy as it is addictive. Don’t forget to massage the kale!
Start Here
1. Cut the thick stems off the kale and reserve for pickling (see Note, here). Strip the leaves off the stems by pulling them away from the bottom up, and tear them into bite-size pieces. Rinse and blot dry.
2. Put the leaves in a large bowl, sprinkle with the olive oil and salt, and, using your hands, knead the oil and salt into the leaves for about a minute, until they glisten uniformly, to tenderize the kale. Choose your style (opposite), or pick one item from each row. Add your choice of flavorings, check the seasoning, and serve.
NOW YOU KNOW
There’s hardly a salad, sandwich, plate of eggs, cheese and charcuterie board, or platter of meat that wouldn’t be happier joined by a heap of pickled red onions. Here’s how to make them: Slice an onion 1/8 inch thick and place in a small heatproof bowl. Combine 1 cup white wine vinegar, 1 cup sugar, and a pinch of kosher salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil gently, stirring occasionally, for a minute or two, until the sugar is completely dissolved. Pour over the onions and let steep until cool. Use right away or store refrigerated in the brine in a tightly covered container for up to 2 weeks.
Blue Cheese
1 cup crumbled blue cheese
+
1 cup pickled red onions (see opposite)
+
½ cup sunflower seeds, toasted
Smoked Cheddar
1 cup shaved smoked cheddar
+
1 cup chopped scallions
+
½ cup pumpkin seeds, toasted
Grana Padano
1 cup coarsely grated Grana Padano
+
1 cup very thinly sliced red onion
+
½ cup hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
Ricotta Salata
1 cup coarsely chopped ricotta salata
+
1 cup Crispy Shallots
+
½ cup pecans, toasted and roughly chopped
Caramelized Endives and Gem Lettuces with Sheep’s-Milk Cheese and Black Olives
Serves 4
2 endives and 2 gem lettuces, rough outer leaves removed, or 4 large endives (about 4 ounces each)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 ounces plain yogurt (sheep’s-milk yogurt if available)
4 ounces sheep’s-milk cheese, such as Istara or young Pecorino
8 pitted kalamata olives, torn lengthwise into rough pieces
1 cup Garlic Croutons (recipe follows), chopped into coarse crumbs
¾ cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley
Silky, sweet, salty, crunchy—this has it all. And in the dead of winter, we all welcome a dish with ingredients that can be found in the cupboard and the corner store.
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. Slice the endives and lettuces lengthwise in half and trim the bottoms, leaving enough of the cores to hold the leaves together. Toss with the olive oil and arrange cut side down on a sheet pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast for about 15 minutes, until nicely browned on the bottom. Flip the endives and lettuces with a spatula and baste with additional olive oil if they seem dry. Roast for about 7 more minutes, until tender when pierced with a fork. Remove from the oven.
3. Spoon a large dollop of yogurt onto each individual serving plate or spoon the yogurt onto a platter, spreading it out with the back of the spoon. Arrange the endive and lettuces cut side up over it and shave slices of the cheese over the top (see Quick Cut, here). Shower with the olives, crouton crumbs, and parsley. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.
Makes about 1 cup
Garlic Oil
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large garlic clove
A 3-ounce piece of good country or sourdough bread
1. Make the garlic oil: Pour the olive oil into a small bowl. Using a Microplane, grate the garlic into the oil, then stir it around to infuse the oil. Strain.
2. Cut the bread into ½-inch cubes, spread them out in a skillet, and drizzle with the garlic oil. Set over medium-high heat and toast, tossing occasionally, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Drain on paper towels. Store in an airtight container for up to a week.
More Uses for Garlic Oil
• In place of unflavored oil in salad dressings
• Drizzled over vegetables before roasting and serving over hot pasta with grated Parmesan
• In place of butter for scrambled eggs
Black-Eyed Peas with Blood Oranges and Chipotle
Serves 6 to 8
1 pound dried black-eyed peas, picked over and rinsed
Kosher salt
3 blood oranges or 2 large navel oranges, zested and suprêmed (see Quick Cut, here), 1 tablespoon zest and ¼ cup juice reserved, segments broken into 3 or 4 pieces
Orange Chipotle Dressing
1 or 2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, plus 1½ teaspoons of the sauce, or more if desired
1½ teaspoons seasoned rice vinegar
1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
½ cup flavorless vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup chopped red onion
A good handful of fresh cilantro sprigs, or to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
The perfect balance of earthy, fruity, and spicy, this is an unusual twist on the traditional southern dish for prosperity in the New Year.
1. Bring the peas to a boil in a large pot of water. Reduce the heat and cook until they are tender but not mushy, anywhere from 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on their age. Salt the water toward the end of the cooking time. Test for doneness by tasting several beans from different parts of the pot. Drain thoroughly and transferto a large bowl.
2. While the peas are cooking, make the dressing: Combine the orange zest and juice, chiles, adobo sauce, vinegar, and mustard in the bowl of a food processor or in a blender and pulse to mix. With the motor running, slowly add the oil, processing until the dressing is smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
3. Add the red onion, orange segments, dressing, and most of the cilantro to the bowl with the black-eyed peas and toss well. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add more adobo sauce if desired. Scatter the remaining cilantro over the top and serve.
Suprêming Citrus Fruit
For pieces of pure fruit, without any membrane or pith:
Slice off the top and bottom of each fruit so that the flesh is exposed.
With a sharp knife, following the contours of the fruit, cut from top to bottom to remove the skin and white pith, going all the way around the fruit.
Holding the fruit over a bowl, cut along the membranes on both sides of each segment, allowing the segments to drop into the bowl.
Korean Rice Cakes with Kimchi Dressing and Crispy Shallots
Serves 6 to 8
Kosher salt
⅓ cup chopped drained kimchi, liquid reserved
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
⅓ cup flavorless vegetable oil
1 tablespoon gochujang, or to taste (see here)
One 1-pound bag frozen disk-shaped Korean rice cakes, defrosted
3½ cups thinly sliced Napa cabbage (about 12 ounces)
½ cup chopped drained kimchi
2 tablespoons chopped fresh garlic chives or regular chives
Freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces shallots (6 or 7 large), thinly sliced lengthwise
1 cup flavorless vegetable oil
Kosher salt
Cabbage with lots of garlic, in different guises. The crispy shallots are chef David Tanis’s trick: Start them in room-temperature oil and cook them slowly to get them crisp without burning.
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, make the dressing: Combine the kimchi, 1 tablespoon of the reserved liquid, and the mustard in the bowl of a food processor or in a blender. With the motor running, drizzle in the oil, processing until the mixture is smooth. Blend in the gochujang. Set aside.
2. Add the rice cakes to the boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes, until pliable. They will still be somewhat chewy. Drain the rice cakes in a colander and run cold water over them briefly to cool, then drain and transfer to a bowl. Toss with a few tablespoons of the dressing to prevent sticking.
3. Add the cabbage, chopped kimchi, and garlic chives to the rice cakes and toss well with the remaining dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Make the crispy shallots: Put the shallots in a small saucepan and cover them with the oil. Set the pan over medium heat and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until the shallots gradually turn brown, about 15 minutes. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and spread out on paper towels to drain; they will crisp up as they cool. Season with salt to taste while still warm. Strain the oil and store in the refrigerator for sautéing greens, or to use in any dressing where you’d like an additional layer of flavor.
5. Toss the rice cakes with most of the crispy shallots, then scatter the rest over the top and serve.
meet the ingredient
Korean Rice Cakes
There’ll be a trip to the Asian grocer for the Korean rice cakes, usually found frozen. They come in disk shapes or small logs. Their toothsome texture is addictive. You can use them as you would any short pasta and serve with an assertive sauce (try them with Spicy Thai Basil Pesto).
Acorn Squash with Green Olives and Curry Dressing
Serves 4
1½ pounds acorn squash, halved lengthwise, seeds scooped out, and sliced about an inch thick
2 tablespoons flavorless vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Curry Dressing
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
4 green cardamom pods
½ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
¾ teaspoon Dijon mustard
2½ tablespoons cider vinegar
½ cup flavorless vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ pound Savoy cabbage, cored and thinly sliced crosswise into ⅛-inch-wide ribbons
¼ cup pitted green olives, halved and thinly sliced
½ cup raisins or Pickled Raisins
¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted
In this unusual take on a usual squash, the green olives and Indian flavors in the dressing spice up the caramelized acorn squash wedges.
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. On a sheet pan, toss the squash slices with the oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread the slices out and roast for about 20 minutes, until tender and nicely browned in parts, turning once halfway through. Let cool.
3. While the squash is roasting, make the dressing: Toast the whole spices in a small skillet over medium heat for several minutes, stirring occasionally, until fragrant. Grind together in a mortar or spice grinder. Add the ginger and turmeric. Put the mustard and vinegar in the bowl of a food processor or in a blender, add the spices, and pulse to combine. Gradually add the oil, processing until the dressing is well blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Combine the cabbage, olives, raisins, and almonds in a large bowl and toss with half of the curry dressing. Add the squash and toss gently with the remaining dressing, taking care not to break the squash slices. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary and serve.
Grapefruit Salad with Dates and Dried Cherries
Serves 4
2 large pink or red grapefruits
¾ teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ teaspoon honey, or more to taste
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large Medjool dates, pitted
¼ cup dried cherries
1 head of red leaf lettuce, separated into leaves, washed, and dried
2 tablespoons toasted sunflower seeds
Scant ½ teaspoon flaky salt
2 to 3 scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced on the diagonal
Jewel-toned and refreshing, this salad is a tart and sweet addition to a weekend brunch.
1. With a sharp knife, peel the grapefruits, carefully removing all the white pith. Slice off the tops and bottoms and slice the fruit into rounds ½s inch thick or thinner. Transfer to a bowl, along with any juices—squeeze the trimmings to get every last drop. (The grapefruit can be prepared a day ahead of time and refrigerated.)
2. Make the dressing: Pour 3 tablespoons of the grapefruit juice into a small bowl. Whisk in the mustard and honey. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
3. Slice the dates lengthwise into quarters, then cut crosswise into small dice. Place in a small bowl. If the cherries are large, chop them. Add the cherries to the dates and stir in 1 tablespoon of the dressing to keep the fruit from sticking together.
4. Line a platter with the lettuce leaves. Arrange the slices of grapefruit on top of the lettuce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Scatter the dried fruit over the grapefruit and lettuce and drizzle with the remaining dressing. Shower with the sunflower seeds, flaky salt, and scallion greens and serve.
Serves 4
1½ pounds small new potatoes, cut in half, or quartered if large
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Pickled Carrots (recipe follows), plus 3 tablespoons of the pickling liquid
Freshly ground black pepper
2 celery stalks, trimmed and sliced on the diagonal
2 scallions, sliced on the diagonal (about ⅓ cup)
⅓ cup kalamata olives, pitted and halved lengthwise
Briny black olives and tart pickled carrots add unexpected notes to this classic dish.
1. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with cold water by several inches, add salt to taste, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to medium and cook for about 8 minutes, or until the potatoes can be pierced through with the sharp point of a knife. Drain in a colander. While the potatoes are still warm, add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the pickling liquid from the carrots, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool.
2. When the potatoes have cooled, add the drained pickled carrots, the celery, scallions, and remaining 1 tablespoon each olive oil and pickling liquid and toss gently, taking care not to break the potatoes. Add the olives, season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss again. Drizzle with additional olive oil and serve.
Makes about ⅓ cup
1 medium carrot, peeled and grated
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup white wine vinegar
A pinch of kosher salt
1. Put the carrot in a small heatproof bowl. Combine the sugar, vinegar, and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil gently, stirring occasionally, for a minute or two, until the sugar is completely dissolved. Pour over the carrot and steep until cool. Use right away or store refrigerated in the brine in a tightly covered container for up to 2 weeks.
2. Drain the carrot before using, but reserve the liquid.
When the wind is howling, gather your closest friends for a cozy dinner. Enjoy the meal by a crackling fire. Double, triple, or quadruple recipes as necessary to feed your crowd.
Make this:
Broccoli Rabe with Roasted Oyster Mushrooms
ADd this:
Alpine Cheese Board (opposite)
Herb-and-Lemon-Brined Roast Chicken (opposite)
Buy this:
Apple or pear cider
Hot chocolate and marshmallows
Recipes to Make It a Party
Alpine cheeses, produced high in the mountains, are nutty and fruity, tasting of the grass the cows graze on. It’s fun to compare and contrast a variety of them, so select at least three (such as Gruyère, Comté, raclette, Tomme de Savoie, Reblochon, and/or Fontina Val d’Aosta). Along with the cheeses, offer guests hot (spicy) honey, such as Mike’s, and apple butter, such as Kime’s or Eden. Serve with small plates and sharp knives, a bowl of small, pretty apples, and a sliced baguette or bread of your choosing.
Herb-and-Lemon-Brined Roast Chicken
makes 1 chicken
Combine 1½ quarts water, ¾ cup kosher salt, 3 tablespoons honey or sugar, 8 bay leaves, 1 large or 2 small halved heads of garlic, 3 fresh sprigs rosemary, 1 small bunch of thyme, 1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, and 3 lemon halves in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool. Stir in 1½ additional quarts cold water. Make sure the brine is completely cool before you add the chicken.
Submerge a 3½-pound chicken in the brine, breast side down, and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days. Half an hour before you are ready to roast, drain the chicken. Pat the bird very dry with paper towels. Tuck the wings under, tie the legs together with butcher’s twine, and set on a rack in a shallow roasting pan or on a sheet pan. Let come to room temperature while you preheat the oven to 425°F.
Roast the chicken for about 50 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer placed in the thickest part of one of the thighs reads 165°F. Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let rest for about 10 minutes before cutting away the twine and carving into serving pieces.