Yunnan

云南, yúnnán

Yunnan has always stood apart from the rest of China, set high on the empire’s barbarous southwestern frontiers, and shielded from the rest of the nation by the unruly, mountainous neighbours of Sichuan and Guizhou. Within this single province, and dwelling among a stew of border markets, mountains, jungles, lakes, temples, modern political intrigue and remains of vanished kingdoms are 28 recognized ethnic groups, the greatest number in any province. Providing almost half the population and a prime reason to visit Yunnan in themselves, the indigenous list includes Dai and Bai, Wa, Lahu, Hani, Jingpo, Nu, Naxi and Lisu plus a host shared with other provinces (such as the Yi or adjoining nations. Each minority has its own spoken language, cuisine, distinctive form of dress for women, festivals and belief system, and with enough time you should be able to flesh out the superficial image of these groups laid on for the tourist industry.

In recent years tourism has boomed out of all proportion to Yunnan’s remote image, bringing batallions of tour buses, souvenir stalls and loudspeaker-toting guides from far and near; the upside is improved resources geared to their needs, including backpacker cafés and companies offering cycling and trekking trips, ensuring that Yunnan is one of the easiest regions to explore in China.

The northeast of the province is home to the attractive capital, Kunming, whose mild climate earned Yunnan its name, meaning literally "south of the clouds". A scattering of local sights – including the brilliant green, near-vertically terraced valleys at Yuanyang – extends southeast from the city towards the border with Vietnam. Northwest of Kunming, the Yunnan plateau rises to serrated, snowbound peaks, extending to Tibet and surrounding the ancient historic towns of Dali and Lijiang; there’s one of China’s great hikes here too, through Tiger Leaping Gorge. The Far West, laid out along the ghost of old trade routes, has less of specific interest but allows gentle probing along the Burmese border. Yunnan’s deep south comprises a further isolated stretch of the same frontier, which reaches down to the tropical forests and paddy fields of Xishuangbanna, a botanical, zoological and ethnic cornucopia abutting Burma and Laos – about as far from Han China as it’s possible to be.

Getting around can be time-consuming, thanks to Yunnan’s sheer scale, but the state of country buses and roads is often surprisingly good; new expressways are springing up at a regular rate and it’s an undeniable achievement that some of the lesser routes exist at all. Yunnan’s fairly limited rail network is due for expansion too, with recently completed services to Dali and Lijiang making these popular destinations more accessible than ever.

The weather is generally moderate throughout the year, though northern Yunnan has cold winters and heavy snow up around the Tibetan border, while the south is always warm, with a torrential wet season in summer.

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SAN TA PAGODAS, DALI

Highlights

1 Kunming’s bars Check out the laidback nightlife in one of China’s most relaxed cities.

2 Yuanyang Base yourself in this attractive town and visit nearby minority villages set in a landscape spectacularly sliced up by rice terraces.

3 Dali An old town with an enjoyable, relaxed travellers’ quarter, offering café society and lush scenery.

4 Cycling around Lijiang Take yourself out of the touristy town centre and cycle around the well-preserved villages at the heart of the Naxi Kingdom.

5 Lugu Lake Tranquil lakeside resort with matriarchal villages on a backroads route into Sichuan.

6 Tiger Leaping Gorge Relax for a few days on the ridge of this dramatic gorge, trekking between farmstead homestays.

7 Meili Xue Shan Dramatic jagged scenery along the northwestern border with Tibet.

8 Jungle trekking, Xishuangbanna Explore a region populated by many different ethnic groups, each with their own distinctive dress and customs.

< Back to Yunnan

Brief history

According to the Han historian Sima Qian, the Chinese warrior prince Zhuang Qiao founded the pastoral Dian Kingdom in eastern Yunnan during the third century BC. The Dian were a slave society, who vividly recorded their daily life and ceremonies involving human sacrifice in sometimes gruesome bronze models, which have been unearthed from their tombs. In 109 AD the kingdom was acknowledged by China: the emperor Wu, hoping to control the Southern Silk Road through to India, sent its ruler military aid and a golden seal. However, the collapse of the Han empire in 204 AD was followed by the dissolution of Dian into private statelets.

The Dali and Nanzhao kingdoms

In the eighth century, an aspiring Yunnanese prince named Piluoge, favouring Dali for its location near trade routes beteen central and southeastern Asia, invited all his rivals to dinner in the town, then set fire to the tent with them inside. Subsequently he established the Nanzhao Kingdom in Dali, which later expanded to include much of modern Burma, Thailand and Vietnam. In 937, the Bai warlord Duan Siping toppled the Nanzhao and set up a smaller Dali Kingdom, which survived until Kublai Khan and his Mongol hordes descended in 1252.

The Muslim Uprising

Directly controlled by China for the first time, Yunnan served for a while as a remote dumping ground for political troublemakers, thereby escaping the population explosions, wars and migrations that plagued central China. However, the Mongol invasion had introduced a large Muslim population to the province, who, angered by their deteriorating status under the Chinese, staged the Muslim Uprising in 1856. Under the warlord Du Wenxiu, the rebellion laid waste to Kunming and founded an Islamic state in Dali before the Qing armies ended it with the wholesale massacre of Yunnan’s Muslims in 1873, leaving a wasted Yunnan to local bandits and private armies for the following half-century.

Modern times

Strangely, it was the Japanese invasion of China during the 1930s that sparked a resurgence of Yunnan’s fortunes. Blockaded into southwestern China, the Guomindang government initiated great programmes of rail-and-road building through the region, though it’s only recently that Yunnan has finally benefited from its forced association with the rest of the country. Never agriculturally rich – only a tenth of the land is considered arable – the province looks to mineral resources, tourism and its potential as a future conduit between China and the much discussed, but as yet unformed, trading bloc of Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and Burma. Should these countries ever form an unrestricted economic alliance, the amount of trade passing through Yunnan would be immense, and highways, rail and air services have already been planned for the day the borders open freely.

YUNNANESE FOOD

Yunnanese food splits broadly into three cooking styles. In the north, the cold, pastoral lifestyle produces dried meats and – very unusually for China – dairy products, fused with a Muslim cuisine, a vestige of the thirteenth-century Mongolian invasion. Typical dishes include wind-cured ham (火腿, huŏtuĭ), sweetened, steamed and served with slices of bread; dried cheese or yoghurt wafers (乳扇, rŭshān or 乳饼, rŭbǐng); the local version of crisp-skinned duck (烧鸭, shāoyā), flavoured with Sichuan peppercorns – you’ll see drum-shaped duck ovens outside many restaurants – and a tasty fish claypot (沙锅鱼, shāguō yú).

Eastern Yunnan produces the most recognizably "Chinese" food. From here comes chicken flavoured with medicinal herbs and stewed inside a specially shaped earthenware steamer (气锅鸡, qìguōjī), and perhaps the province’s most celebrated dish, crossing-the-bridge noodles (过桥米线, guòqiáo mǐxiàn), a sort of individualized hotpot eaten as a cheap snack; you pay by the size of the bowl. The curious name comes from a tale of a Qing scholar who retired every day to a lakeside pavilion to compose poetry. His wife, an understanding soul, used to cook him lunch, but the food always cooled as she carried it from their home over the bridge to where he studied – until she hit on the idea of keeping the heat in with a layer of oil on top of his soup.

Not surprisingly, Yunnan’s south is strongly influenced by Burmese, Lao and Thai cooking methods, particularly in the use of such un-Chinese ingredients as lime juice, coconut, palm sugar, cloves and turmeric. Here you’ll find a vast range of soups and stews, roughly recognizable as curries, displayed in aluminium pots outside fast-turnover restaurants, and oddities such as purple rice-flour pancakes sold at street markets. The south is also famous in China for producing good coffee and red pu’er, Yunnan’s best tea.

Kunming

昆明, kūnmíng

Basking 2000m above sea level in the fertile heart of the Yunnan plateau, KUNMING does its best to live up to its traditional nickname, the City of Eternal Spring. Until recently it was considered a savage frontier settlement; the authorities only began to realize the city’s promise when people exiled here during the Cultural Revolution refused offers to return home to eastern China, preferring Kunming’s climate and more relaxed life. Today, its citizens remain mellow enough to mix typically Chinese garrulousness with introspective pleasures, such as quietly greeting the day with a stiff hit of Yunnanese tobacco from fat, brass-bound bamboo pipes.

The city’s potential as a hub for both domestic tourism and cross-border trade has seen Kunming develop rapidly in recent years. With its sprouting malls and streets bustling with shoppers from every corner of the country – not to mention some interesting markets and an excellent museum – Kunming is no longer the sleepy outpost of old, but the growing tourist infrastructure, together with a student and expat-fuelled nightlife, ensures the city is an enjoyable stop-off. Which is just as well, as virtually every traveller coming through Yunnan will end up here at some point.

Brief history

Historically the domain of Yunnan’s earliest inhabitants and first civilization, Kunming long profited from its position on the caravan roads through to Burma, India and Asia. It was visited in the thirteenth century by Marco Polo, who found the locals of Yachi Fu (Duck Pond Town) using cowries for cash and enjoying their meat raw. The city suffered widespread destruction as a result of the 1856 Muslim rebellion and events of forty years later, when an uprising against working conditions on the Kunming–Haiphong rail line saw 300,000 labourers executed after France shipped in weapons to suppress the revolt.

In the 1930s, war with Japan brought a flock of wealthy east-coast refugees to the city, whose money helped establish Kunming as an industrial and manufacturing base for the wartime government in Chongqing. The allies provided essential support for this, importing materials along the Burma Road from British-held Burma and, when that was lost to the Japanese, with the help of the US-piloted Flying Tigers, who escorted supply planes over the Himalayas from British bases in India. The city consolidated its position as a supply depot during the Vietnam War and subsequent border clashes and today is profiting from snowballing tourism and foreign investment. Neighbouring nations such as Thailand trace their ancestries back to Yunnan and have proved particularly willing to channel funds into the city, which has become ever more accessible as a result.

Bird and Flower Market

花鸟市场, huāniăo shìchăng • Daily 8am–8pm

Running west off central Zhengyi Jie, Jingxing Jie leads into one of the more offbeat corners of the city. Once a huge bird and flower market, the area has now been rebranded as "Old Street" (老街, lăojiē) and features rather less in the way of birds and flowers and rather more in the way of standard cheap tat. That said, some birds – as well as lizards, pigs, snakes and cute bunny rabbits – remain, and look beyond the "jade" bangles, blindingly powerful torches and overly-embroidered handbags on display and you’ll find one of the few areas where Kunming’s original wooden buildings remain standing. Their increasing decrepitude suggests they won’t be here for much longer, but for the moment cutting down the back alleys here can give a real glimpse back in time, just metres from the city’s most modern shopping streets.

Yunnan Provincial Museum

云南省博物馆, yúnnánshěng bówùguăn • Daily 9am–5pm • Free except special exhibitions

About 500m west of the centre along Dongfeng Xi Lu, the Yunnan Provincial Museum gives an insight into Yunnan’s early Dian Kingdom. Best are the bronzes on the second floor, dating back more than two thousand years to the Warring States Period and excavated from tombs south of Kunming. The largest pieces include an ornamental plate of a tiger attacking an ox and a coffin in the shape of a bamboo house, but lids from storage drums used to hold cowries are the most impressive, decorated with dioramas of figurines fighting, sacrificing oxen and men and, rather more peacefully, posing with their families and farmyard animals outside their homes.

Cuihu Park

翠湖公园, cuìhú gōngyuán • Daily dawn–10pm • Free

Cuihu Park is predominantly lake, a good place to join thousands of others exercising, singing, feeding wintering flocks of black-headed gulls, or just milling between the plum and magnolia gardens and over the maze of bridges. Main entrances are at the south, north and east of the park, and encircling Cuihu Lu is lined with restaurants and bars, which spill into adjacent Wenlin Jie, the best place in the city to look for a drink and a feed. Immediately north of the park, the Yunnan University campus offers a glimpse of old Kunming, its partially overgrown 1920s exterior reached via a wide flight of stone steps.

Yuantong Temple

圆通寺, yuántōng sì • Yuantong Jie • Daily 9am–5.30pm • ¥6

East from Cuihu Park, the Qing-vintage Yuantong Temple has undergone major renovations to emerge as Kunming’s brightest Buddhist temple. A bridge over the central pond crosses through an octagonal pavilion dedicated to a multi-armed Guanyin and white marble Sakyamuni, to the threshold of the main hall, where two huge central pillars wrapped in colourful, manga-esque dragons support the ornate wooden ceiling. Faded frescoes on the back wall were painted in the thirteenth century, while the rear annexe houses a graceful gilded bronze Buddha flanked by peacocks, donated by the Thai government.

Kunming City Museum

昆明市博物馆, kūnmíngshì bówùguăn • Daily 9.30am–5pm • Free

Besides more bronze drums and some dinosaur skeletons, the highlight of the Kunming City Museum, east of Beijing Lu along Tuodong Lu, is the Dali Sutra Pillar. In its own room on the ground floor, it’s a 6.5m-high, pagoda-like Song-dynasty sculpture, in pink sandstone; an octagonal base supports seven tiers covered in Buddha images, statues of fierce guardian gods standing on subjugated demons, and a mix of Tibetan and Chinese script, part of which is the Dharani Mantra. The rest is a dedication, identifying the pillar as having been raised by the Dali regent, Yuan Douguang, in memory of his general Gao Ming. The whole thing is topped by a ring of Buddhas carrying a ball – the universe – above them, and the pillar is full of the energy that later seeped out of the mainstream of Chinese sculpture.

Two pagodas

Two large Tang-dynasty pagodas, each a solid thirteen storeys of whitewashed brick crowned with four jolly iron cockerels, rise a short walk south of the city centre. The Eastern Pagoda (东寺塔, dōngsì tă) on Shulin Jie sits in a little ornamental garden, while the Western Pagoda (西寺塔, xīsì tă) is a few minutes’ walk away at the back of a flagstoned square on Dongsi Jie. You can’t enter either, but the sight of these 1300-year-old towers surrounded by modern office blocks is striking.

LEAVING CHINA

Kunming is a springboard for travel into Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Burma, all of which maintain consulates in town.

For Thailand, there are flights to Bangkok from Kunming: Thai Airways are in the Jinjiang Hotel, 98 Beijing Lu ( tel_icon 0871 63548655, web_icon thaiairways.com.cn; Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm). Depending on the security situation, it may also be possible to catch a ferry from Jinghong in Xishuangbanna. Many nationalities can stay visa-free in Thailand for 30 days if arriving at an airport, or 15 days arriving by land; if you need longer, head to Kunming’s consulate for a visa.

You can fly to Laos, and there’s also a direct bus from Kunming’s South bus station to Luang Prabang (daily 7am; 30hr; ¥300). For Vietnam either fly, or catch a bus to Hekou and cross the border on foot. Laos visas might again be available at the border depending on nationality; for Vietnam you’ll need to get one in advance.

For Burma, arrange both visas and obligatory tour package in Kunming before either flying direct to Yangon or crossing the border on foot near Ruili.

KUNMING’S CONSULATES

The Guandu Consular District (外国领馆区, wàiguó lĭngguănqū ), home to an increasing number of consulates, is around 15km southeast of the city centre and can be reached by taxi for around ¥30.

Cambodia Royal Consulate General, 4th Floor, Kunming Guanfang Hotel, 172 Xinying Lu tel_icon 0871 63317320.

Laos Consulate General, 6800 Caiyun Bei Lu, Foreign Consular Zone, Guandu District (next to the Empark Hotel) tel_icon 0871 67334522.

Myanmar (Burma) Consulate General, 99 Yingbin Lu, Foreign Consular Zone, Guandu District. Office hours: Mon–Fri 9am–noon, 1–2pm. Closed the last day of every month.

Thailand Royal Consulate General, South Building, Kunming Hotel, 52 Dongfeng Dong Lu tel_icon 0871 63168916.

Vietnam Consulate General, Suite 507, Hongda Mansion, 155 Beijing Lu tel_icon 0871 63522669.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: KUNMING

BY PLANE

For air tickets, China Eastern and Shanghai Airlines share the airline office on Tuodong Lu ( tel_icon 0871 63164270 or 63138562; web_icon travelsky.com). Agents around town all offer the same fares.

Kunming Changshui International Airport (昆明长水国际机场, kūnmíng chángshuǐ guójì jīchăng), known locally as New Kunming Airport (昆明新机场, kūnmíng xīnjīchăng), lies 25km northeast of the city centre. As well as domestic services, there are international flights to Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Phnom Penh, Singapore, Taipei, Vientiane and Yangon. Outside the airport, shuttle buses (¥20) head into town every 20–30min: #1 terminates at the Xiyi Hotel on Dongfeng Xi Lu, just west of Cuihu Park; while #2 services the southeast of the centre, calling at the Telecom International Hotel near the junction of Huancheng Nan Lu and Chungcheng Lu, and Kunming Train Station. A taxi into town can take up to an hour and costs around ¥100. Metro line #6 (every 25min, ¥5) runs from the airport, but at time of writing only as far as the East Bus Station, still 10km from the city centre.

Destinations Baoshan (4 daily; 1hr); Beijing (daily; 3hr 30min); Changsha (12 daily; 1hr 50min); Chengdu (16 daily; 1hr 25min); Chongqing (many daily; 1hr 15min); Dali (4 daily; 45min); Guangzhou (18 daily; 2hr); Guilin (2 daily; 1hr 30min); Guiyang (6 daily; 1hr 10min); Hong Kong (4 daily; 2hr 45min); Jinghong (many daily; 55min); Lhasa (3 daily; 2hr 10min); Lijiang (18 daily; 1hr); Mangshi (11 daily; 1hr); Nanning (6 daily; 1hr); Shanghai (many daily; 3hr); Shenzhen (12 daily; 2hr); Xi’an (13 daily; 2hr).

BY TRAIN

Kunming train station (昆明火车站, kūnmíng huŏchē zhàn) is at the southern end of Beijing Lu; the building is two-tiered, with the ticket windows downstairs (daily 5am–11pm) and departures upstairs. Useful buses from here include #23 up Beijing Lu past the all but defunct North train station; and #59, which heads up Qingnian Lu to within striking distance of Yuantong Temple and Cuihu Park. If you’re immediately heading onwards, there’s also bus #C71 to the South bus station and buses #C72 or #80 to the Western bus station. Note that trains to Xiaguan (for Dali) and Lijiang are quicker than making the same journey by bus.

Destinations Beijing (2 daily; 36–48hr); Chengdu (6 daily; 18–24hr); Chongqing (3 daily; 20–24hr); Guangzhou (4 daily; 24–27hr); Guilin (1 daily; 22hr); Guiyang (13 daily; 8–11hr); Lijiang (5 daily; 9–10hr); Nanning (6 daily; 11–14hr); Shanghai (3 daily; 34–42hr); Shenzhen (1 daily; 30hr); Xiaguan (6 daily; 8hr); Xi’an (1 daily; 35hr); Xichang (5 daily; 9hr).

BY BUS

Kunming’s many bus stations are scattered around the city perimeter, generally at the point of the compass relevant to the destination. They are all a long way out: allow plenty of transit time, even in a cab, especially during rush hours (about 7–9am and 5–7pm). Agents in town might be willing to buy tickets for a fee, otherwise you’ll have to get out to the stations yourself.

Western bus station (西部汽车客运站, xībù qìchē kèyùnzhàn), also known as Majie bus station (马街客运站, măjiē kèyùn zhàn), is 10km out towards the Western Hills. It deals with traffic to Xiaguan, Lijiang, Deqin, Shangri-La, Tengchong and Ruili. On arrival, catch bus #82 to the western end of Nanping Jie or bus #C72 to Kunming train station; a taxi is ¥30.

South bus station (南部汽车客运站, nánbù qìchē kèyùnzhàn) is 15km southeast of the centre, with departures to Xishuangbanna, Jianshui, Yuanyang and Luang Prabang in Laos among others. Take bus #C71 to Kunming train station, or a taxi for ¥45.

East bus station (东部汽车客运站, dōngbù qìchē kèyùnzhàn), 10km out, is for services to Shilin and points east, plus Hekou on the Vietnam border. Bus #60 runs to Kunming train station via Bailong Lu; a taxi costs ¥30. Metro line #6 runs northeast from the station to the airport.

North bus station (北部汽车客运站, běibù qìchē kèyùnzhàn). Unless arriving from Panzhihua in Sichuan, you’re unlikely to find yourself here; bus #23 heads through town via both train stations.

Destinations Baoshan (8hr); Hekou (7hr); Fugong (16hr); Jianshui (3hr); Jinghong (10hr); Lijiang (10hr); Liuku (11hr); Ruili (13hr); Shilin (3hr); Wanding (12hr); Weishan (7hr); Xiaguan (5hr); Yuanyang (5hr).

GETTING AROUND

By bus You might resort to city buses (¥1–2) to reach some of the further-flung sights, but they’re slow and not that useful around the centre.

By metro Limited sections of the still-under-construction metro are operational but at time of writing only cover areas well outside the city centre. The comprehensive six-line network is due for completion in 2018.

By taxi Taxis ply all the main streets in central Kunming, charging a minimum ¥8 for the first three kilometres and ¥1.60 for each additional kilometre during the day. At night a minimum ¥9.80 charge applies.

By bicycle Bicycles can be rented from the Hump or Cloudland hostels for ¥30 per day.

INFORMATION

Travel agents Travel agents abound in Kunming, with virtually every hotel able to organize visas and private tours around the city, and to Shilin, Dali, Lijiang and Xishuangbanna, and to obtain tickets for onwards travel. Expect to pay commissions of at least ¥20 for bus or train ticket reservations, though plane tickets shouldn’t attract a mark-up. CITS ( tel_icon 0871 63157499; Mon–Sat 9am–6pm) are at 328 Beijing Lu, but are mostly concerned with organizing package tours. The best bet for travel and tourist advice without the hard sell is at one of the city’s youth hostels; staff at the Hump and Cloudland are generally helpful and informative.

ACCOMMODATION

Cloudland International Hostel 大脚氏国际青年旅舍, dàjiăshì guójì qīngnián lǚshè. 23 Zhuantang Lu tel_icon 0871 64103777. Hard to find, in a street at right-angles to Xichang Lu, northwest of its junction with Xinwen Lu, Cloudland has rooms in tiers around a courtyard, a good café, and hiking info for Tiger Leaping Gorge and Meili Xue Shan. Can be noisy, depending on who is staying. Dorm ¥35, room ¥150

author_pick Cuihu 翠湖宾馆, cuìhú bīnguăn. 6 Cuihu Nan Lu tel_icon 0871 65158888, web_icon greenlakehotel.com. The place to stay in Kunming. Long-established, luxurious, and good value in pleasant surroundings by Cuihu Park, with a fancy lobby, impeccably polite staff and an excellent restaurant. Airport transfers can be arranged; all major credit cards are accepted. ¥1000

Fairyland 四季酒店鼓楼店, sìjì jiŭdiàn gŭlóu diàn. 716 Beijing Lu tel_icon 0871 6285777, web_icon yssjhotel.com. Budget business hotel, not in the smartest part of town but not far from Yuantong Temple and Cuihu Park either; cheaper rooms are tiny, but pay a bit more and you get a modern, comfortable place to stay. Bus #23 stops nearby. ¥250

Home Inn 如家酒店, rújiā jiŭdiàn. 492 Dongfeng Xi Lu tel_icon 0871 65387888, web_icon homeinns.com. Handily, if noisily, located not far from the university area and Green Lake, what this chain hotel lacks in charm it mostly makes up for in cleanliness. Free wi-fi and en-suite rooms throughout. ¥200

Horizon 天恒大酒店, tiānhéng dàjiŭdiàn. 432 Qingnian Lu tel_icon 0871 63186666, web_icon www.horizonhotel.net. An overblown, multi-starred place with a mountain of marble in the lobby and an overflow of cafés and restaurants; rooms are clean and comfortable enough, but also a little dated and drab. ¥600

author_pick Hump Over The Himalayas 驼峰客栈, tuófēng kèzhàn. Jinbi Lu tel_icon 0871 63640359, web_icon thehumphostel.com. Three hundred police once raided this place to close it down, but despite this wild reputation, today it’s clean, organized and secure. Rooms are no-frills, though a comfy lounge-bar and rooftop terrace compensate. The only downside is noise from surrounding nightclubs, but they’ll give you earplugs if you ask. Dorm ¥35, room ¥175

Kunming 昆明饭店, kūnmíng fàndiàn. 52 Dongfeng Dong Lu tel_icon 0871 63162063. Another big, upmarket hotel with an ageing, gaudy lobby, reasonable service, decent rooms and a restaurant specializing in dishes from Chaozhou in Guangdong province. ¥780

7 Days Inn 七天连锁酒店, qītiān liánsuŏ jiŭdiàn. 10 Huashan Dong Lu tel_icon 0871 63166877. Just one of a dozen indistinguishable branches this characterless but clean and convenient franchise has opened in the city. All rooms are en suite and come with wi-fi access, and this branch is well placed close to Yuantong Temple and the city centre. ¥150

Yunda Hotel 云大宾馆, yúndà bīnguăn. Wenhua Xiang tel_icon 0871 65034181. At the university’s west gate, the hotel itself is not up to much but is in one of the most enjoyable parts of town. Try and get a room in the main building rather than in the musty annex across the road which is actually a dormitory for overseas students. Prices can be negotiated. ¥200

EATING

Kunming is stacked with good places to eat, from street stalls and Western cafés to smart restaurants offering local cuisine. Back lanes off Jinbi Lu hold some great cheap places where you can battle with the locals over grilled cheese, hotpots, fried snacks rolled in chilli powder, loaves of excellent meat-stuffed soda bread, and rich duck and chicken casseroles. There’s a string of inexpensive Muslim duck restaurants on Huashan Nan Lu, southeast of Cuihu Park, but by far the best place to look for a feed is around Cuihu Park itself: Indian, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Thai and Western food can all be found here, as can a decent cup of coffee.

author_pick 1910 Gare du Sud 火车南站, huŏchē nánzhàn. 8 Houxin Jie, accessed from Chongshan Lu, near its junction with Xunjin Lu tel_icon 0871 63169486. Traditional Yunnan fare served in a former French colonial train station; there’s a large balcony and courtyard and photos of colonial Kunming throughout. A popular place with trendy middle-class locals but nowhere near as expensive as you’d think, and two can eat very well for ¥100. Daily 11.30am–10pm.

French Café 兰白红咖啡, lánbáihóng kāfēi. 70 Wenlin Jie tel_icon 0871 65382391. There’s a large French contingent in Kunming, drawn perhaps by the colonial connection; this café, with its pastries and baguettes, must make them feel at home. Sandwiches from ¥25, with larger mains around ¥40. Daily 9am–midnight.

Heavenly Manna 吗哪, mană. 74 Wenhua Xiang tel_icon 0871 65369399. Home-style Yunnanese dishes: inexpensive, varied, interesting and very spicy indeed. Setting is crowded, with no-frills low wooden tables and chairs; watch out for the low ceiling with protruding pipes upstairs. Mains ¥15–40. Daily 11am–9.30pm.

Hongdou Yuan 红豆园餐厅, hóngdòuyuán cāntīng. 142 Wenlin Jie tel_icon 0871 5392020. Branch of popular Sichuanese-Yunnanese chain, with an easy-to-follow photo menu. Not everything is spicy; they do excellent crisp-skinned duck with cut buns, cold-sliced pork, stewed spare ribs and rice-coated pork slices. The fish looks good too. Mains ¥25–45. Daily 9am–9pm.

author_pick The Hump Coffee Bar 驼峰咖啡吧, tuófēng kāfēi ba. Jinbi Lu, underneath the Hump hostel tel_icon 0871 63646229. Managed by long-time Yunnan wheeler-dealer, Burmese Moe, The Hump offers an excellent range of curries, many of them vegetarian, for ¥30. Add snacks, including fried cheese and chips, for around ¥15, free wi-fi, and decent coffee, and you have a very pleasant place to chill. Daily 9am–10pm.

author_pick Lucky Cloud Food City 祥云美食城, xiángyún měishíchéng. Junction of Xiangyun Jie and Nanqiang Jie. Calling this place a food court does it a massive disservice but that’s basically what it is, only for street food. There’s seating for 500 and dozens of cubbyhole serveries whacking out everything from kebabs to iced fruits, and from noodles to fried eel. Prices range from ¥2 for a single kebab to ¥20 for pork and rice. There are pricier, more civilized hotpot and barbecue restaurants with outdoor seating at the southeast corner. Daily 11am–9.30pm.

Prague Café 布拉格咖啡馆, bùlāgē kāfēi guăn. 40 Wenlin Jie tel_icon 0871 65332764. This offshoot of a successful Lijiang enterprise offers very strong coffee and a decent breakfast, as well as internet access and a book exchange. One of the better cafés in this locality, it’s a good place to while away an afternoon. Mains ¥20–40. Daily 9am–midnight.

Salvadors 沙尔瓦多咖啡馆, shāěrwăduō kāfēiguăn. 76 Wenhua Xiang tel_icon 0871 65363525, web_icon salvadors.cn. Expat-run and populated, and somewhere to get information and conversation from jaded, in-the-know foreign residents. Well-stocked bar with pavement taking overflow, plus coffee and pub-style menu. Mains ¥20–50. Daily 9am–10pm.

Shiping Huiguan 石屏会馆, shípíng huìguăn. 24 Zhonghe Xiang, Cuihu Nan Lu tel_icon 0871 63627444. Tucked back off the street behind an ornamental archway and heavy stone wall, this elegantly restored courtyard restaurant is a great place to sample Yunnanese cuisine. It tends to get booked out by tour groups and wedding parties, so reservations are essential. Ranges from ¥20 for fried greens to ¥100 for steaming plates of meat. Daily 11am–10pm.

TianFu Vegetarian 添福素心, tiānfú sùxīn. 26 Yuantong Jie, at the front gate of Yuantong Temple tel_icon 1388 8772263. Awaiting reopening after upmarket refurbishment at time of writing; expect an impressive array of meat-like tofu dishes from ¥40. Daily 10am–9.30pm.

Yingjiang Thai 盈江傣味园, yíngjiāng dăiwèiyuán. 66 Cuihu Bei Lu tel_icon 0871 65337889. Strongly Sinocized Thai food, though favourites like sweet pineapple rice, grilled fish, sour bamboo shoots and laab (spicy mince salad) are all pretty good. Count on ¥35 per person. Daily 11am–10pm.

DRINKING, NIGHTLIFE AND ENTERTAINMENT

Kunming is a great place to go out, with plenty of friendly, reasonably priced bars and clubs patronized by a good mix of locals and foreigners; the most Western-friendly are in the Wenlin Jie area. Check GoKunming ( web_icon gokunming.com) for the latest hotspots, entertainment and cultural events.

Camel Bar 骆驼酒吧, luòtuó jiŭbā. 310 Jinbi Lu tel_icon 0871 63195841, web_icon camelbarkm.com. Not far from The Hump, this place is a bit more polished than most in the city, appealing to middle-class Chinese rather than just students. There’s a pricier menu to match, with drinks from ¥18 and main dishes, including pizza and burgers, starting at ¥35. It gets lively with dancing at weekends, but during the day is a good place to relax over a coffee. Daily 9am–1am.

Chapter One 联系, liánxì. 146 Wenlin Jie tel_icon 0871 6365635, web_icon chapteronekunming.com. Good pub atmosphere, cheap happy-hour drinks (5–8pm) and a decent range of inexpensive, mostly Western food served all day. Expect to pay upwards of ¥20 for a main. Daily 11am–midnight.

Jinbi Plaza 金碧广场, jīnbì guăngchăng. Jinbi Lu. A complex (or, after a few drinks, a maze) of interlinked clubs such as The Hump – stumble out of one and you fall straight into another.

Kundu Night Market 昆都夜市, kūndū yèshì. Off Xinwen Lu. If you can’t live without cheesy techno and flashing lights, head to this clutch of bars and clubs with late-night restaurants, nail bars and tattoo parlours in between. Everywhere’s free to get in, but drinks cost at least ¥30. Daily 6pm–late.

Mask 脸谱酒吧, liănpŭ jiŭbā. 14 Kundu Nightmarket tel_icon 0871 66438358. Popular expat party spot on the square in the heart of the Kundu. Marginally more restrained than the its neighbours, Mask’s big selling point is regular live music, including a jam session on Mon. Daily 6pm–late.

Moondog 月亮狗, yuèliàng gŏu. 138-5 Wacang Nan Lu tel_icon 1588 7146080. Despite the name, and being perilously close to the Kundu Night Market area, this is actually a relaxed bar with friendly staff, and a surprising selection of Scotch whiskies. Daily 6pm–late.

author_pick Nordica 诺地卡, nuòdìkă. 101 Xiba Lu tel_icon 0871 64114692, web_icon tcgnordica.com. Gigs, club nights and talks take place frequently at this Scandinavian-run converted factory complex of galleries, cafés and studio spaces. Daily 11am–10pm.

Yunnan Arts Theatre 云南艺术剧院, yúnnán yìshù jùyuàn. Dongfeng Xi Lu tel_icon 0871 63109365. Large-scale, energetic dance shows, based (loosely) on authentic ethnic folk cutlure, play out every night. Tickets at ¥130–480 can be bought during the day from the box office outside the theatre, or from any travel agency in town.

SHOPPING

Nanping Jie and Zhengyi Lu are full of ordinary clothing and shoe stores; the bird market area is where to find jolly souvenirs.

Bookshops Kunming’s best English-language bookshop is Mandarin Books at 52 Wenhua Xiang, near the university. It has many imported novels, obscure academic texts, guidebooks and much that is published in English in China, all of it fairly pricey. Many of the cafés and bars along Wenlin Jie have cases of mostly fairly trashy secondhand novels for sale.

Department stores Kunming’s most upmarket stores are the three Gingko Shopping Plazas strung across Beijing Lu and Baita Lu, crammed with luxury brands.

Supermarkets Both the huge Carrefour supermarket on Nanping Jie, or similarly enormous Walmart, south off Renmin Xi Lu, just west of the junction with Dongfeng Xi Lu, have imported Western food, plus Yunnan ham sold in slices, chunks and entire hocks.

Tea Yunnan’s famous pu’er tea, usually compressed into attractive "bricks" stamped with good-luck symbols, is sold almost everywhere.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: JIANSHUI

By bus Jianshui’s bus station is on Yinghui Lu in the bland modern town, 1km northeast of the old town; catch bus #1, #12, or #13 to the Chaoyang Lou, or a taxi (¥4) to Lin’an Lu-Hanlin Jie intersection in the old town. There are regular departures to Kunming, and less frequent services to Hekou and Yuanyang – the latter a long trip on a direct, scenic but rough road south.

Destinations Hekou (4hr); Jinghong (10hr); Kunming (4hr); Yuanyang (3hr).

ACCOMMODATION

Hongmantian Kezhan 红满天客栈, hóngmăntiān kèzhàn. Hanlin Jie tel_icon 0873 3183818. Opposite the Lin’an, this place has a wildly decorated facade in a pseudo-antique style; rooms are large, but overall it lacks the appealing atmosphere of its neighbour. ¥180

Huaqing Hotel 话请酒店, huàqĭng jiŭdiàn. 5 Hanlin Jie tel_icon 0873 7666166. Popular with tour groups, this place has good standard, perfectly clean rooms and an adjoining café. There’s no lift, so rooms on the fourth floor can easily be bargained down to a great deal. ¥120

author_pick Lin’an Inn 临安客栈, línān kèzhàn. 32 Hanlin Jie tel_icon 0873 7655866. Just north of the Zhu Gardens, this friendly courtyard-style hotel has large, clean, airy rooms which are excellent value, and some enormous beds. They also rent bikes for ¥30 per day. ¥170

Zhu Family Gardens 朱家花园, zhūjiā huāyuán. 16 Hanlin Jie tel_icon 0873 7667109. This has to be the pick of Jianshui’s places to stay, at least for atmosphere, with its rooms full of imitation Qing furniture and a genuine sense of history. That all comes at a price, though. ¥480

EATING

author_pick Xiangman Lou 香满楼, xiāngmăn lóu. 65 Hanlin Jie tel_icon 0873 7655655. This wooden building in the heart of the old town is the best place to eat in Jianshui. There’s an extensive menu including the local speciality qiguo, a casserole whose inverted funnel design simultaneously poaches meat and creates a soup, as well as regional mushroom dishes and a decent selection for vegetarians. Expect to pay around ¥40 per person for a full meal. Daily 11am–9.30pm.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: HONG HE VALLEY

BY BUS

There are long-distance stations at both Nansha and Xinjie.

Nansha Nansha’s bus station is at river level, right at the junction of the road up to Xinjie, and handles traffic to Jianshui (¥33).

Xinjie Just off the main square. There are three direct buses daily to Kunming’s South bus station (¥128), and a couple to Hekou.

Destinations Hekou (3hr); Jianshui (3hr); Kunming (7hr).

INFORMATION

Information For the latest on where to go, how to get there and how much to pay, visit the World Vision-sponsored Window of Yuanyang (元阳之窗, yuányáng zhīchuāng, tel_icon 0873 5623627, web_icon windowofyuanyang.com), 100m or so down the street past the Agricultural Bank of China, below the Yunti Hotel. They can organize minibus rental and tour guides, and have simple but useful hiking maps of the local area.

GETTING AROUND

By minibus Minibuses shuttle between Nansha and Xinjie bus stations throughout the day (¥10; 1hr). Private minibuses ply popular routes from village to village for a few yuan per person (they display their destinations in their front windows). If you’re pushed for time you’ll probably need to hire a minibus at Xinjie; ¥250 for the vehicle should cover a day’s exploration and get you around most of the sights.

ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation in Xinjie is plentiful; there are also several basic guesthouses among the terraces at Duoyishu village.

XINJIE

Chen Family Guesthouse 陈家旅社, chénjiā lǚshè. Immediately out of the bus station and left tel_icon 0873 5622343. This guesthouse with basic tiled rooms (and Snoopy curtains) has some of the best views in town from its terrace. En-suite rooms come with hot showers and a squat toilet. Dorm ¥25, room ¥50

Yunti 云梯大酒店, yúntī dàjiŭdiàn. Across the road from the main square tel_icon 0873 5624858, web_icon yunti-hotel.cn. Of the two Yunti hotels in Xinjie, this has the better rooms but lesser views. Newly refurbished, large and clean, this is the most comfortable place in town, with a good restaurant too. ¥200

Yunti Sunshine 云梯顺捷酒店, yúntī shùnjié jiŭdiàn. In the main square tel_icon 0873 5621588, web_icon yunti-hotel.cn. Boasting wonderful views, the rooms here have an unfinished quality to them, but are perfectly comfortable. You also have a grandstand spot for morning aerobics in the square – which kicks off at 7am sharp, accompanied by blasting techno. Bring earplugs. ¥130

DUOYISHU

Sunny Guesthouse 阳光客栈, yángguāng kèzhàn. tel_icon 1598 7371311. Down at the bottom of the village, the friendly Sunny is hard to find but run by fluent English-speakers, so give them a call before you arrive and they’ll come and find you. Somewhere between a guesthouse and a hostel, rooms are basic but have fantastic views down the valley. Dorm ¥40, room ¥130

Yuanyang International Youth Hostel 元阳国际青年旅舍, yuányáng guójì qīngnián lǚshè tel_icon 136 9498158. At the top of the village, down a flight of steps from the main road, the modern building is functional but hardly pretty, much like this hostel’s rooms. There’s an excellent terrace for watching the sunrise though, and the bar downstairs also turns out a good selection of evening meals. Dorm ¥45, room ¥100

EATING

Liu Jun Fandian 六军饭店, liùjūn fàndiàn. West side of the town square, Xinjie. There are simple restaurants dotted all over Xinjie, particularly along the road from the square to the bus station, but this is the best. In two units either side of a pharmacy, both served by the same kitchen, take your pick from a large fridge stuffed full of ingredients. Check the prices when you order, but most dishes are around ¥25 per plateful. Daily 9am–9.30pm.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: HEKOU

By bus Arriving from Vietnam, head 50m up the main road and the bus station is on the left. Here you can catch fast buses to Kunming’s East bus station (8hr; ¥139), or ordinary buses to Yuanyang and Jianshui.

Destinations Jianshui (5hr); Kunming (8hr).

ROUTES THROUGH THE NORTHWEST

Xiaguan, just a stone’s throw from Dali, is just five hours from Kunming by bus, and from here there are at least regular, if not always speedy, services through the rest of the region. Trains link Kunming to Xiaguan and Lijiang, with talk of an extension to Shangri-La; and you can also fly to Lijiang and Shangri-La. There are overland routes into Sichuan from Lijiang and Shangri-La too; but at the time of writing the Tibet road from Deqin, which follows the dramatic upper reaches of the Lancang River to Markam, then turns west towards Lhasa, was closed to foreigners. Ask agencies in Dali, Lijiang and Shangri-La about the latest situation.

Xiaguan

下关, xiàguān

Some 380km west of Kunming underneath a string of mountain-top wind turbines, XIAGUAN – also confusingly known as Dali city (大理市, dàlĭ shì) – is a sprawling transport hub on the southern shore of Er Hai Lake. With Dali so close – less than an hour’s ride up the lakeshore – you won’t need to spend the night here, but you’ll almost certainly pass through Xiaguan at some stage, if only to top up your China visa at the local, highly amenable, PSB office. In addition, both the holy mountain of Jizu Shan and Weishan, a small, largely unspoiled market town to the south, are just about manageable as day-trips from the town’s bus stations.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: XIAGUAN

Xiaguan is where most long-distance "Dali" transport actually terminates; Dali itself is less than an hour distant from the city on frequent public transport. Though it’s possible to get tickets at the respective train and bus stations in Xiaguan, booking in Dali at a small mark-up (¥20) saves a lot of hassle, and for buses often includes a complementary shuttle to the station. A taxi from bus or train stations in Xiaguan to Dali takes around 40min and costs ¥60.

BY PLANE

Dali airport (大理机场, dàlĭ jīchăng) is 15km east of Xiaguan, for which you’ll need a taxi (flat rate of ¥100 to Dali old town).

Destinations Guangzhou (1 daily; 3hr 30min); Jinghong (2 daily; 1hr); Kunming (3 daily; 45min).

BY TRAIN

Xiaguan train station (下关火车站, xiàguān huǒchēzhàn) is in the east of town on Weishan Lu; city bus #8 to old Dali town stops right outside. Buy tickets on the first floor.

Destinations Kunming (5 daily; 8hr); Lijiang (4 daily; 2hr).

BY BUS

Dali bus station (大理汽车客运站, dàlĭ qìchē kèyùn zhàn). Diagonally across Weishan Lu from the train station, this bus station is of most use for Kunming. Catch city bus #8 from outside the train station to old Dali town.

North bus station (客运北站, kèyùn běizhàn), 3km north of the centre on the Dali highway. Further buses to Kunming and regular departures for Lijiang and Shangri-La (Zhongdian) – the #8 and #4 buses stop right outside.

South bus station (客运南站, kèyùn nánzhàn) Nanjian Lu. Only needed for buses to Weishan. It’s at the terminus of the #2 bus route from the North bus station.

Xingcheng express bus station (兴盛高快客运站, xīngshèng gāokuài kèyùnzhàn), Xingcheng Lu. Express coaches to Kunming and points west, such as Baoshan and Tengchong. For old Dali town, turn right out of the bus station, walk to the main intersection, then turn right again and it’s 150m to the #8 bus stop.

Destinations Baoshan (3hr); Binchuan (2hr); Dali (30min); Jinghong (18hr); Kunming (4hr); Lijiang (3hr 30min); Liushui (6hr); Mangshi (4hr); Ruili (6hr); Shangri-La (7hr); Shaxi (4hr); Tengchong (6hr); Weishan (1hr 30min).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Xiaguan has a good city bus network, several of which run from arrival points, through town and north to Dali. Fare in town is ¥1.5, with most buses running 7am–8pm.

By taxi Taxis can be found throughout town, but congregate at bus and train stations. Flag fall is ¥6, then ¥1.6 per additional km.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: JIZU SHAN

By bus and minibus To reach Jizu Shan, catch one of the frequent buses from Xiaguan’s Dali bus station to Binchuan (宾川, bīnchuān; 2hr; ¥25), then a minibus from the back of the station to Jizu Shan (¥13; 1hr 30min) – these leave when full, and run from around 8am until 4pm. Minibuses from the mountain to Binchuan run approximately 8am–3pm.

ACCOMMODATION

Jizu Shan Hotel 鸡足山宾馆, jīzúshān bīnguǎn. On the main mountain road, 300m below Zhusheng Temple tel_icon 0872 7350478. Very basic hostel-style accommodation, but good enough for a single night. You may want to bring your own sleeping bag – it can be cold and damp and the hot water is intermittent. ¥80

Weishan

巍山, wēishān

WEISHAN, a charismatic old town 50km south of Xiaguan, is now largely forgotten, but as the cradle of the Nanzhao kingdom and a prosperous former stop on the tea-horse trade routes, it has a distinguished past. Today it’s a supply town for the local Bai, Muslim and – especially – Yi population, but its history, still evident in some impressive ancient buildings, makes it worth a visit.

The old town

Head east from Weishan’s bus station, and you’ll soon be walking the cobbled lanes of the old town; there are few street signs, but the only thing you need to find anyway is Gongchen Lou (拱辰楼, gŏngchén lóu), a huge old gate tower marking the centre of town. Climb it (¥2) and you’ll see Weishan’s pedestrianized main street, lined with old wooden shops, running 500m south to smaller Xinggong Lou (星拱楼, xīnggŏng lóu), once a bell tower. Weishan’s back lanes are full of markets and wobbly adobe houses, but the town’s biggest appeal is the fact that nothing is geared to tourism, and people are just getting on with their lives – the barber shop on the east side of the square around Gongchen Lou, and seemingly unchanged for the last 100 years, is a particular treat.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: WEISHAN

By bus Weishan’s bus station is at the western edge of town, with departures to Xiaguan’s South bus station every 15min until 5.30pm (¥13).

Destinations Kunming (3 daily; 6hr); Xiaguan (1hr 30min).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

For food, head to Xiaochi Jie (小吃街, xiăochī jiē) or "Snack Street", the first lane running east, south of Gongchen Lou, which is lined with inexpensive restaurants.

Gucheng Kezhan 古城客栈, gŭchéng kèzhàn. 59 Dongxin Jie tel_icon 0872 6122341. Just east from Gongchen Lou, the Gucheng has basic en-suite rooms tucked around a small, old courtyard. The rooms aren’t great but the family that runs the place are friendly. ¥80

Mengshe Stagehouse 蒙舍驿站, mēngshě yìzhàn. 9 Nan Jie, 50m past Xinggong Lou tel_icon 0872 6123338. This reconstructed old inn has a lovely wooden facade and Bai-style wall murals, though once past this welcomingly authentic rustic frontage, the rooms at the back are a little concrete and bland. ¥80

Weishan Binguan 巍山宾馆, wēishān bīnguăn. 52 Dongxin Jie tel_icon 0872 6122655. Virtually next door to the Gucheng, this larger operation is more of a standard Chinese hotel really – hard beds, large en-suite rooms, a/c and bathtubs – and seems oversized for the town. ¥140

Dali

大理, dàlǐ

A thirty-minute local bus ride north of Xiaguan, DALI draws swarms of holidaying middle-class urban Chinese seeking an "old China" experience, while foreign backpackers drift through a Westerner-friendly theme park of beer gardens and hippified cafés. It’s not hard to see why people flock here: despite the tourist overkill along the main streets, Dali is pretty, interesting and relaxed, full of old houses and an indigenous Bai population rubbing shoulders with local Yi and Muslims. To the east lies the great lake, Er Hai, while the invitingly green valleys and clouded peaks of the Cang Shan range rear up behind town, the perfect setting for a few days’ walking or relaxation. Some visitors, seduced by China’s closest approximation to bohemia (and the local weed), forget to leave, and plenty of resident Westerners run businesses here.

DALI’S FESTIVALS

If you can, visit Dali during the Spring Fair, held from the fifteenth day of the third lunar month (April or May). The event spans five hectic days of horse trading, wrestling, racing, dancing and singing, attracting thousands of people from all over the region to camp at the fairground just west of town. You’ll probably have to follow suit, as beds in Dali will be in short supply. In addition, an impressive but frankly scary Yi torch festival is held on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month – flaming torches are paraded at night, and people even throw gunpowder at each other.

Brief history

There’s much more to Dali than its modern profile. Between the eighth and thirteenth centuries, the town was at the centre of the Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms, which at one point expanded into Burma, Sichuan and Thailand; while in the mid-nineteenth century it briefly became capital of the Islamic state declared by Du Wenxiu, who led a Muslim rebellion against Chinese rule. But the revolt failed and the Yunnan governor, Cen Yuying, unleashed a merciless slaughter of Dali’s unarmed civilian population; the town was utterly devastated, never to recover its former political position.

The South Gate

南门, nánmén • ¥20

Get your bearings on top of Dali’s old South Gate, where you can study Xiaguan, the lake, town and mountains from the comfort of a teahouse. Dali’s antique pagodas stand as landmarks above the roof lines, solitary Yi Ta due west, and the trinity of San Ta a few kilometres north. From here the town’s original, grid-like street plan, and the line of its old walls, are still apparent, despite encroachment from highways and Xiaguan’s ever-spreading suburbs.

The central streets

Fuxing Lu, choked with tour groups and souvenir stalls selling ethnic silverware and embroideries, runs north through the town: about 150m along, the heavy stone Wuhua Gate (五华楼, wŭhuá lóu) is a modern construction, similar in style to the South Gate. Past here, Fuxing Lu is crossed by Renmin Lu and Yangren Jie ("Foreigners Street") which – along with parallel Bo’ai Lu – are where to find most of Dali’s Westerner-friendly bars, cafés, masseurs, tour agents and trinket and clothing stalls. Escape the middle-aged Bai ladies hissing "ganja, ganja" at you by detouring east down Renmin Lu to the splendid blue, multi-tiered Bai-style Catholic church (天主教堂, tiānzhŭ jiàotáng) in an alley off to the south.

Dali Museum

大理博物馆, dàlĭ bówùguăn • Daily 8.30am–5pm • Free

Down on Fuxing Lu near the South Gate, Dali Museum takes the form of a small Chinese palace with guardian stone lions and cannons in the courtyard. It was built for the Qing governor and appropriated as Du Wenxiu’s "Forbidden City" during the Muslim insurrection. Historic relics include a strange bronze model of two circling dragons, jaws clenched around what might be a tree; a few Buddhist figurines from the Nanzhao period; and some lively statues of an orchestra and serving maids from a Ming noblewoman’s tomb – a nice addition to the usual cases of snarling gods and warrior busts.

The north of town

Dali’s north end is far less touristy than the south, and it’s worth just wandering the cobbled residential back lanes. Yu’er Park (玉洱公园, yù’ěr gōngyuán; daily 6am–8pm; free) is a pleasant, if small, patch of trees; and Dali’s northwesterly produce market is worth a look too, especially when crowds of hawkers, farmers and shoppers descend for the weekly market. Finally, the North Gate (北门, běimén) can again be climbed for views; Zhonghe Lu to the east is lined with little marble factories, turning out the grey-streaked sculptures for which Dali is famous.

San Ta

三塔, sāntă • Daily 8am–7pm • ¥121, or ¥190 including Chongsheng temple • bus #19 from outside the South Gate on Wenxian Lu

The ostentatious Three Pagodas, or San Ta, were built around 850: the 69m-tall, square-based Qianxun tower is a century older than the two smaller octagonal pagodas behind. As the structures are sealed, the stiff entrance fee gives access only to souvenir stalls around their base, so you’re probably just as well looking at them from outside the gate – though if you have bought the full ticket you can visit the huge and completely forgettable Chongsheng Temple (崇圣寺, chóngshèng sì) behind, built from scratch in 2005.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: DALI

By bus Dali doesn’t have its own bus station: arriving from the north will see you dropped off on the highway outside the east gate, from where you can either walk into town or catch bus #2 up Yu’er Lu. From the south, your bus will terminate at Xiaguan and you’ll need to catch city bus #4 or #8, or grab a cab (¥60) into Dali old town. Leaving, book long-distance bus tickets through agents in town – who will also tell you where to pick buses up – or head down to the relevant stations in Xiaguan and sort things out yourself.

Destinations Kunming (5hr 30min); Lijiang (3hr 30min); Shangri-La (6hr); Shaping (1hr); Shaxi (3hr 30min); Xiaguan (30min); Xizhou (30min); Zhoucheng (45min).

INFORMATION

Travel agents Agents in Dali – such as Michael’s Travel (on Bo’ai Lu) – can organize tickets onwards plus Er Hai boat trips (¥100/person), visits to a Bai home (¥50/person) and discounted tickets for the Cang Shan cableways.

Tour operators There are a number of specialist tour operators based in Dali to help you get the most out of your trip: these include Climb Dali ( tel_icon 0872 2501920, web_icon climbdali.com), with offices at 20 Renmin Lu and the Boulder Bar at 393 Renmin Lu; and Amiwa ( 158 21994181, amiwa-trek.com), a trekking company with Bai guides. Agents in Dali can also organize train and plane tickets from Xiaguan.

GETTING AROUND

By bus City buses shuttle between Dali and Xiaguan through the day: bus #8 runs from outside the West Gate, turns east along Yu’er Lu and then heads south along Chengdong Lu; bus #4 from the North Gate runs down Bao’ai Lu and onto the highway. Both cost ¥2.

By taxi Taxis endlessly ply the streets of Dali, so finding one is no problem – basic charges will be ¥50–60 into Xiaguan and ¥100 for the airport. Nowhere within Dali itself should cost more than ¥10.

ACCOMMODATION

Dali has plenty of good-value places to stay, both inside and outside the old city walls, though rates can double during local festivals. If you’re really looking to avoid the tourist hordes, there’s more remote accommodation in the Cang Shan range and at Xizhou.

Fairyland 连锁酒店, liánsuŏ jiŭdiàn. 31 Yangren Jie, west off Bo’ai Lu tel_icon 1898 7080802. Probably the smartest place in town for the price, though not especially cheap, with modern hotel rooms inside an attractive, restored old Bai courtyard house. ¥249

Four Seasons Youth Hostel 春夏秋冬青年旅舍, chūnxiàqiūdōng qīngnián lǚshè. 46 Bo’ai Lu (entrance on Renmin Lu) tel_icon 0872 2671668. Modern courtyard setting with pool table, free internet, aimiably clueless staff and obligatory bar. Dorms are functional while private en-suite rooms with a/c are very well furnished.Dorms ¥45, rooms ¥160

author_pick Hotel du Temps Perdu 风清大理客栈, fēngqīng dàlǐ kèzhàn. 81 Wenxian Lu, 200m south of the South Gate tel_icon 1398 8414203, email_icon hoteldutempsperdu@gmail.com. Comfortable modern rooms are aranged around a central atrium and decked out in Chinese furnishings, with a good restaurant and helpful, friendly staff. They put out tables and chairs among plants in the courtyard and serve free tea and nibbles. ¥180

Jade Emu/Jade Roo 金玉缘中澳国际青年旅舍, jīnyùyuán zhōngào guójì qīngnián lǚshè. West Gate Village, across the western highway from town tel_icon 0872 2677311, web_icon jade-emu.com. Large, clean, institution-like hostel complex with a touch too much concrete around the place, though the exterior is nicely done out in Bai-style decorations. Dorms ¥30, rooms ¥130

Jim’s Tibetan Hotel 吉姆藏式酒店, jímŭ zāngshì jiŭdiàn. 4 Luyuan Xiang tel_icon 0872 2677824, web_icon jims-tibetan-hotel.com. Likeable Jim has been a Dali fixture for decades, and this colourful modern take on a traditional Tibetan home – with a rooftop terrace and multiple floors facing out into a rose garden – is a quiet, spacious option well geared to travellers’ needs. There’s an excellent restaurant and fair-value trips out of town. ¥300

author_pick Mao Mao Cool 猫猫果儿客栈, māomāo guŏér kèzhàn. 419 Renmin Lu tel_icon 0872 2474653. Very stylish, open-plan modern atrium building with goldfish pond; rooms have wooden floors and are just a bit too comfortable to be minimalist. Quiet location might be a plus. Café and small library too; excellent value. ¥120

author_pick Moonshine Inn 苍岳别院, cāngyuè biéyuàn. 16 Yu’er Xiang, Yu’er Lu tel_icon 0872 2671319, web_icon moon360.net. Beautifully constructed old-style three-storey courtyard guesthouse run by a Bai lady and her German husband. Rooms are priced according to floor: the ones on the top, with access to a roof terrace, are the nicest and priciest. Note that all the loos are squat style. It’s 50m down a narrow alley off Yu’er Lu; look for the sign painted on the wall. ¥170

World Travelers’ Home 旅友驿站, lǚyŏu yìzhàn. 3 Luyu Lu tel_icon 0872 2680288. Friendly, quiet, Chinese-style hotel with good-value basic doubles with a/c and larger – though slightly stuffy – rooms with wooden four-poster beds. Sound hiking info. ¥100

EATING AND DRINKING

Chinese restaurants outside the south gate and around the intersections of Fuxing Lu with Renmin Lu and Huguo Lu offer steamers of dumplings and Bai specialities such as fish or tofu casseroles, snails and stir-fried mountain vegetables and fungi. On the whole, food at these places isn’t great, though the home-made plum wine (梅酒, méijiŭ) is worth a try. Similar Muslim canteens display grilled kebabs and fresh bread, and are a sounder bet. For cafés and bars serving a mix of Western and Chinese staples, head to Renmin Lu’s western end, along with adjacent Yangren Jie and Bo’ai Lu. Food aside, they make good places to meet other foreigners and swap news, use the internet and get in touch with the latest martial-art, language or painting courses.

Amy’s Courtyard Restaurant 庭院餐厅, tíngyuàn cāntīng. 2 Bo’ai Lu, just past the gate. One of the better places to try Bai fish head (or tofu) casseroles, cold cucumber salad and deep-fried goat’s cheese with sugar. Around ¥30 per person for a good feed. Daily 11am–9pm.

Bakery 88 88号西点店, bāshíbā hào xīdiăndiàn. 52 Yangren Jie Zhong Xin, Bo’ai Lu tel_icon 0872 2679129. German-managed café with superb European cakes and breads to eat in or take away. The breakfast bagels and baba ganoush can make a nice break from the usual Chinese/Western options – sandwiches from ¥30. Daily 9am–9pm.

author_pick Café de Jacks 樱花园西餐厅, yīnghuāyuán xīcāntīng. 82 Bo’ai Lu tel_icon 0872 2671572. Comfortable place to spend an afternoon over a coffee (¥15) and chocolate cake (¥20), or dig into their selection of curries, pizzas – from ¥30 – and Bai dishes. The open fire makes it cosy on winter evenings. Daily 9.30am–10.30pm.

Gogo Café 51 Renmin Lu tel_icon 0872 2672506. Popular for spaghetti, pizzas and large breakfasts – all from ¥30, as well as fruit juices and good coffee. They also have a book exchange, free internet and can burn CDs. Like most restaurant-bars in the street, they stick tables outside during the summer. Daily 9am–11pm.

Guaizao Western Vegetarian 拐枣国际素食咖啡馆, guăizăo guójì sùshí kāfēiguǎn. 176 Renmin Lu. Vegetarian restaurant doing proper hippy food – like tofu curry and lentil bakes – rather than the fake meat of most Chinese vegetarian places. Nice setting with a small garden at the back, terrace in front and free wi-fi. Mains from ¥25. Daily 10am–9.30pm.

author_pick Namaste Afila 亚菲拉印度菜, yàfēilā yìndùcài. 80 Bo’ai Lu tel_icon 0872 8868865. Tucked into a small Moorish mud-brick-and-tiled courtyard, Namaste serves a wide selection of excellent, mostly vegetarian, Indian samosas, curries and thalis. There’s a huge fireplace indoors for cooler weather. Stuff yourself for ¥50. Daily 11.30am–10pm.

Stella Pizzeria 新星比萨房, xīnxīng bĭsà fáng. 21 Huguo Lu tel_icon 0872 2679251. The wood-fired clay oven here delivers the best pizzas in town, and the laidback decor, with seating on different mezzanine levels as well as outside, is appealing too. Daily 9am–10.30pm.

Sweet Tooth 甜点屋, tiándiăn wū. 52 Bo’ai Lu tel_icon 1581 2178779. A polished and pristine Western-style café, run by staff who are deaf-mute, with great cheesecake and breakfast pancakes from ¥20. Daily 9am–8pm.

NIGHTLIFE

author_pick Bad Monkey 坏猴子酒吧, huàihóuzi jiŭbā. 59 Renmin Lu web_icon badmonkeybar.com. Run by a pair of English wide boys, Bad Monkey is the black hole around which the rest of Dali’s nightlife has revolved for more than a decade. Hosting nightly live music and serving cocktails, beer, fish and chips, and shepherd’s pie, this place even has its own microbrewery, and is packed out virtually every night. Drinks from ¥25, main meals ¥35. Daily 8.30am–1am.

Sun Island Bar 日岛酒吧, rìdăo jiŭbā. 324 Renmin Lu. One of several smaller speakeasies down towards the east gate, ideal for falling in and out of and with far more character than the row of new places along nearby Honglong Jing bar street. Daily 4pm–1am.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: CANG SHAN

BY CABLE CAR

Gantong Temple (感通寺索道, găntōngsì suŏdào; ¥50 one-way, ¥80 return). Take bus #4 heading south down the highway for 5km to the Guanyin Tang temple complex (观音堂, guānyīn táng), from where you can catch a cab (¥10) uphill to the Gantong Temple terminus. The ascent from here in modern, enclosed gondolas offers a fantastic 25min journey over the treetops, with unsurpassed views of the lake, town and peaks.

Zhonghe Temple Cableway (中和寺索道, zhōnghésì suŏdào; ¥35 one-way, ¥50 return). Cab from town to the lower terminus ¥10. This is more like a ski lift, ferrying you up the mountain in open-sided chairs; at the top is small Zhonghe Temple itself, with more views and access to the Higherland Inn. It doesn’t run on windy days, or if they don’t think enough people are going to show – in which case, you can hike up from here in about two hours.

INFORMATION

Hiking tours Higherland Inn run multi-day treks of Cang Shan’s upper reaches; they can also provide advice, route information and limited camping equipment if you want to explore on your own.

ACCOMMODATION

Higherland Inn 高地宾馆, gāodì bīnguǎn. Zhonghe Temple upper terminus tel_icon 0872 2661599, web_icon higherlandinn.com. A self-contained and well-equipped hostel near Zhonghe Temple; you need to book at least three days in advance, and can only get here via the cableway or on foot. Dorms ¥30, rooms ¥80

Wuwei Temple 无为寺, wúwéi sì. The temple is up in the hills 8km north of Dali – a cab to the gates costs ¥30. A Buddhist temple whose monks teach martial arts. This is not an ordinary hotel, but a working monastery with strict rules for kung fu students: no meat, smoking or alcohol; separate dorms for men and women; and five hours’ training a day, six days a week. Accommodation, food and training/week ¥300

Er Hai and villages

洱海, ěrhăi

Er Hai stretches 40km along the flat valley basin east of Dali, its shore fringed with Bai villages. At present, only tourist boats venture out on the lake; for a more authentic experience you’ll want to head to the villages, especially on market days – there’s transport from both Dali and Xiaguan.

Xizhou

西洲镇, xīzhōu zhèn

Some 20km north from Dali, XIZHOU has a daily morning market and substantial numbers of Bai mansions in its backstreets, most in a run-down state; signs in English guide you to them. You can spend an enjoyable morning wandering around with a camera, before winding up at the Linden Centre, a 1940s mansion beautifully restored by an American art collector and now a cultural centre and very suave hotel, its rooms a mix of traditional and modern furnishings – drop in for a tour.

Zhoucheng

周城, zhōuchéng

At the top of Er Hai’s western shore, ZHOUCHENG is a small strip along the highway with a low-key afternoon market, best known for its dark blue tie-dyed cloth. The adjacent Butterfly Spring (蝴蝶泉, húdié quán; ¥80) is an electric-blue pond haunted by clouds of butterflies when an overhanging acacia flowers in early summer. You can also catch a ferry across the lake to Shuanglang from here.

Shaping and the eastern lakeshore

Overlooking the very top of the lake around 30km from Dali, SHAPING (沙坪, shāpíng) is worth a visit for its Monday market, when what seems like the entire regional population crowds on to the small hill behind town to trade.

Public transport dries up beyond Shaping as the road cuts around to Er Hai’s east shore; there’s a great Tuesday market at SHUANGLANG (双廊, shuāngláng) and another on dates ending in 5 or 0 at WASE (挖色, wāsè), about 15km south. From Wase, there are buses through the day to Xiaguan’s Dali bus station.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: ER HAI

By bus Regular buses depart from outside Dali’s west gate for Xizhou (30min; ¥7), Zhoucheng (40min; ¥9) and Shaping (50min; ¥12), all along Er Hai’s western side; moving on from these places, stand by the roadside and flag down passing traffic. There’s also a regular bus service through the day between Xiaguan and Wase, on the east side of the lake.

By bicycle Agents in town rent out bikes, but be aware that roads on both sides of the lake are fairly narrow, considering the number of fast-moving trucks and buses on them at any one time.

By boat The only cruises available at present are on tourist ferries (¥150 return) from the dock at Cai Cun (才村, cáicūn), on the lakeshore east of Dali at the end of bus #2 route from Bo’ai Lu. These cross to the east shore at Guanyin Ge, a flashy viewing pavilion, then return. You can also catch a ferry from Zhoucheng’s Taoyuan dock (桃源码头, táoyuán mătóu) to Shuanglang (1hr; around ¥40); prices and schedules are by negotiation.

ACCOMMODATION

Linden Centre 喜林苑, xĭlín yuàn. Xizhou village tel_icon 0872 2452988, web_icon linden-centre.com. A meticulously and luxuriously renovated Bai mansion filled with antiques and fine art, which describes itself as a living museum. Whether or not the commendable, if ever-so-slightly pretentious, concept of cultural exchange behind the centre appeals, this is an undeniably beautiful place to stay. ¥1000

Shaxi

沙系, shāxī • ¥30

SHAXI, 90km northwest of Dali, is a tiny rustic relic of the once busy tea-horse trade route between China and Tibet. Listed as an endangered site by the World Monuments Fund, much of the old town has been sympathetically restored and, although it now feels a little sterile, its architectural delights remain largely intact: Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺, xīngjiāo sì) was founded in 1415 and overlooks cobbled Sifang (四方, sìfāng), the main square; and there are stacks of muddy alleyways, old bridges and wood and stone mansions to admire in Shaxi’s handful of back lanes. It’s all very small and quiet, however; the best time to come is for the Friday market, when Yi and Bai villagers descend from the remote hills roundabout.

Shibao Shan

石宝山, shíbăo shān • ¥50 • taxi from Shaxi ¥150 return, including waiting time

Shibao Shan forms a high, forested sandstone ridge scattered with small temples, a three-hour hike or a forty-minute taxi ride from Shaxi. The main sight here is the Shizhong Temple (石钟寺, shízhōng sì), a series of galleries of Tang-dynasty Buddhist figures carved into an overhang, with wooden awnings protecting the more exposed images. Some of the carvings depict Nanzhao kings, others show Buddha, Guanyin and other saints; many show a strong Indian influence. At the end is a carving of, as the sign tactfully phrases it, "female reproductive organs", and a further niche – generally closed off from view – decorated with graphically sexual frescoes.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: SHAXI

By bus and minibus Shaxi lies southwest of the Dali–Lijiang highway town of Jianchuan (剑川, jiànchuān), where any traffic heading between Dali and Lijiang can drop you off. From Jianchuan, minibuses to Shaxi (¥8) run when full. There’s no bus station at Shaxi; minibuses congregate from about 8am onwards on the road above the old town and, again, leave when full.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Despite its diminutive size, Shaxi has plenty of accommodation, all of it in converted old mansions. Being more than four hours from the nearest tourist centres of Dali and Lijiang, and with some pleasant walks in the surrounding countryside, it’s worth staying at least one night. There are plenty of places to eat too, with stir-fry kitchens along the road in the new town and tourist cafés in the old.

author_pick Horse Pen 46 马围客栈, măwéi kèzhàn. Sifang, the old town square tel_icon 0872 4722299, web_icon horsepen46.com. A great location, with English-speaking owners, good hiking information and a cosy bar/communal area. Rooms are perfunctory but comfortable, and the not-too-restored old building is very atmospheric. Dorm ¥30, room ¥80

author_pick Laomadian Lodge 沙系老马店, shāxī lǎomădiàn. Sideng Jie tel_icon 0872 4722666, email_icon laomadian@gmail.com. Close to the Sifang, Laomadian is in a class of its own, beautifully restored, with genuinely luxurious en suites, and a superb restaurant. ¥380

Tea and Horse Caravan Trail Inn 古茶马客栈, gŭchámă kèzhàn. 83 Lao Deng Jie tel_icon 0872 4721051, web_icon shaxitrip.com. Clean, if bare, modern rooms in a vintage courtyard complex deep inside the lanes of the old town. Dorm ¥50, room ¥120

KUNMING BARS

Lijiang

丽江, lìjiāng

LIJIANG, capital of the Naxi Kingdom, nestles 150km north of Dali at foot of the inspiringly spiky and ice-bound massif of Yulong Xue Shan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Surrounded by green fields and pine forests, the town’s winding cobbled lanes form a centuries-old maze, flanked by clean streams, weeping willows and rustic stone bridges. It is also, however, China’s biggest tourist black spot, in many ways little more than a cultural theme park, and the template against which all "old towns" in China are being remodelled. Hordes of visitors pack out the streets, while the Naxi family homes that line them have been converted into rank after rank of guesthouses and souvenir shops, mostly run by Han Chinese posing in ethnic costumes. Despite this, it’s easy to spend a couple of days in Lijiang, especially if you’ve been out in the wilds and need a good feed and a hot shower. Fairground atmosphere aside, there’s also some genuine culture lurking around the town’s fringes, and plenty of potential excursions into the countryside.

LIJIANG ORIENTATION

There are two parts to Lijiang: the old town of Dayan with all the quaint architecture, markets and pedestrianized streets; and the new town, a bland place of wide roads and low-rise boxes, which surrounds Dayan, mostly to the south and west. The old town’s layout is indescribable, but at its core is the central market square, Sifang, and Dong Dajie, the road north from here to a wide, open area at the old town’s border known as Gucheng Kou (古城口, gŭchéng kŏu). Beyond lies the new town and the crossroads at Fuhui Lu and Xin Dajie, the latter running 1km north to Black Dragon Pool Park.

Dayan old town

大研古城, dàyán gŭchéng

It’s not easy to navigate Dayan’s crowded backstreets, and you will inevitably get lost, but as there are few specific sights this hardly matters. Dong Dajie and adjacent lanes follow streams south to Sifang (四方, sìfāng), formerly the main marketplace, a broad cobbled square sided with the inevitable souvenir shops selling silver jewellery, hand-woven cloth, pu’er tea and bright baubles. It’s fun at dusk, when Naxi women gather for surprisingly authentic-feeling group dances, in which everyone is welcome to join. Heading south again takes you right into Dayan’s maze, and eventually you’ll find where Sifang’s market has relocated; an acre of dried goods, fresh herbs, vegetables and fruit, jerked meat, pickles and Lijiang’s famous copper and brass utensils. Clothing stalls towards the bottom of the market sell the handmade fleece jackets worn by Naxi women.

THE NAXI

The Naxi are descended from Tibetan nomads who settled the Lijiang region before the tenth century, bringing with them a shamanistic religion known as Dongba. A blend of Tibetan Bon, animism and Taoist tendencies, Dongba’s scriptures are written in the only hieroglyphic writing system still in use, with 1400 pictograms. The Naxi deity Sanduo is a warrior god depicted dressed in white, riding a white horse and wielding a white spear. Murals depicting him and other deities still decorate temples around Lijiang, and are a good excuse to explore nearby villages.

Strong matriarchal influences permeate Naxi society, particularly in the language. For example, nouns become weightier when the word female is added, so a female stone is a boulder, a male stone a pebble. Inheritance passes through the female line to the eldest daughter. Women do most of the work, and own most of the businesses; accordingly, the Naxi women’s costume of caps, shawls and aprons is sturdy and practical, while retaining its symbolic meaning; the upper blue segment of the shawl represents night, a lower sheepskin band represents daylight, and two circles around the shoulder depict the eyes of a frog deity. Naxi men often appear under-employed, though they have a reputation as good gardeners and musicians. You’ll likely see a few falconers too. Forgotten Kingdom, by Peter Goullart, available at bookshops in town, is an entertaining account of Lijiang and the Naxi during the 1930s.

Mu Palace and Lion Hill

South of Sifang, the Mu Palace (木府, mùfŭ; daily 8.30am–5.30pm; ¥60) was home of the influential Mu family, the Qing-dynasty rulers of Lijiang, though they fell into decline during the nineteenth century. What was left of the mansion was destroyed during the terrible earthquake which flattened half the town in 1995, but the grounds – containing some ornamental pavilions and flower gardens – have been restored. You can walk through them and up onto pretty Lion Hill (狮子山, shīzi shān; ¥15), site of some ancient cypress trees and the Wangu Tower (万古楼, wàngŭ lóu), where you can look down over Dayan’s sea of grey-tiled roofs.

Black Dragon Pool Park

黑龙潭公园, hēilóngtán gōngyuán • Daily 7am–9pm • Free with "Old Town Maintenance Fee" ticket

Up on Lijiang’s northern outskirts, Black Dragon Pool Park is a beautiful place to stroll. The sizeable, pale green pool here is known as Yuquan (Jade Spring) and, with the peaks of Yulong Xue Shan rising behind, the elegant mid-pool Deyue Pavilion is outrageously photogenic. In the early afternoon, you can watch traditionally garbed musicians performing Naxi music in the lakeside halls.

Around the pool

A path runs around the shore between a spread of trees and buildings, passing the cluster of compounds that comprise the Dongba Cultural Research Institute (东巴文化研究室, dōngbā wénhuà yánjiūshì). The word dongba relates to the Naxi shamans, about thirty of whom are still alive and kept busy here translating twenty thousand rolls of the old Naxi scriptures – dongba jing – for posterity. Further around, almost at the top end of the pool, is a group of relocated halls which once formed part of the important Fuguo Temple. The finest of these is Wufeng Lou (五凤楼, wŭfèng lóu), a grand Ming-dynasty palace with a triple roof and interior walls embellished with reproductions of the murals at Baisha.

LIJIANG FEES

While there is no charge to enter Lijiang itself, you do have to buy an "Old Town Maintenance Fee" ticket (¥80; valid for a month, available from most hotels and tourist sites) before you can visit specific sights in and around the town – though you still have to pay additional entry fees for these sights, where they exist.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: LIJIANG

Tickets for all onwards travel can be booked for a fee through accommodation – if not yours, then the Lao Shay Youth Hostel, for instance – or tour agents around town.

By plane Lijiang’s airport (丽江三义机场, lìjiāng sānyì jīchăng) is 20km southwest along the highway. Airport buses (¥15) deliver to the airline ticket office (民航售票处, mínháng shòupiàochù, tel_icon 0888 5399 999), 1.5km west of the old town on Fushui Lu – take bus #1 from here to Gucheng Kou. Airline buses for each flight depart from the Fushui Lu office – ask for times when buying your ticket. Taxis to or from the airport charge ¥100.

Destinations Beijing (4 daily; 3hr 30min); Chengdu (8 daily; 1hr 15min); Chongqing (5 daily; 1hr 20min); Guangzhou (3 daily; 2hr 30min); Jinghong (6 daily; 1hr); Kunming (21 daily; 50min); Shanghai (3 daily; 5hr); Shenzhen (1 daily; 2hr 20min); Xi’an (2 daily; 2hr).

By train The train station (丽江火车站, líjiāng huǒchēzhàn) is out in the country 10km southeast of town at the end of the #13 or #4 bus routes – catch these to Jinhong Lu, on the east side of Gucheng Kou. Trains to Kunming – departing mostly in the evening – also call at Dali en route.

Destinations Dali (3 daily; 2hr); Kunming (5 daily; 9hr 30min–12hr).

By bus Lijiang’s main bus station is in the new town, 1km south of Dayan, from where bus #11 or #8 will get you to Gucheng Kou. Buses run through the day to major destinations in the province and beyond. Early-morning services depart for Baishui Tai, Tiger Leaping Gorge and Qiaotou; for other destinations see specific accounts.

Destinations Daju (3hr); Dali (3hr 30min); Kunming (9hr); Lugu Lake (8hr); Panzhihua (10hr); Qiaotou (2hr); Shangri-La (4hr); Shaxi (3hr); Shigu (2hr); Xiaguan (4hr); Xishuangbanna (23hr).

INFORMATION

Information Your best source of information is probably your accommodation or one of the Western cafés; the places around town calling themselves "Tourist Reception Centres" or similar only sell packaged tours. Look instead for booths labelled "Old Town Management Board Tourism Service Point", which give neutral information about local buses and access details for outlying sights, though usually only Chinese is spoken.

Maps of Lijiang are sold everywhere; bilingual ones printed on brown card and called "Exploring Dali, Lijiang and Shangrila" (¥6) have a detailed layout of the old town, along with an area map of all northwestern Yunnan.

Travel agents For ambitious schedules – including long-distance trekking – contact The Yak Traveller, at 188 Minzhu Lu ( tel_icon 0888 5102666, web_icon theyaktraveller.com).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Buses through the new town run 7.30am–6.30pm (¥1), of use for reaching arrival and departure points.

By minibus Minibuses for touring sights in the countryside around Lijiang can be found at Gucheng Kou around Xin Dajie in the morning; expect to pay ¥150 for a half-day. Alternatively, contact the reliable, Chinese-speaking Ms Mu Chou (mobile tel_icon 1390 8883404).

By taxi Plentiful on the streets around the old town, charging a fixed minimum ¥6 for the first 3km, and ¥1.6 for each additional km.

By bicycle If your accommodation can’t find you one to rent, try N’s Kitchen who charge ¥10–30 per day, plus your passport or deposit.

ACCOMMODATION

Lijiang’s abundant accommodation is mostly in Naxi-style wooden houses with two or three storeys arranged around a small central courtyard. Though these places look like family-run homestays, many of Lijiang’s Naxi have sold up to Han entrepreneurs and moved on. Doubles are usually en suite, but older places might only have shared facilities. Rooms on the ground floor are less private and sometimes cheaper. Though addresses are listed, they probably won’t be much help – see the map for locations.

A Liang Guesthouse 阿亮客栈, āliàng kèzhàn. 110 Wenzhi Xiang tel_icon 0888 5129923. Shanghai-run operation in converted old Naxi house; upstairs rooms are large, airy and with good views, though fairly plain considering the building’s traditional facade. Location in a quiet part of town is a bonus. ¥160

Ancient Town International Youth Hostel 古城国际青年旅舍, gŭchéng guójì qīngnián lǚshè. 44 Mishi Alley, Xinyi Jie tel_icon 0888 5105403. One of two YHA-affiliated places in town, set inside another old courtyard home; rooms are bare but clean, and there’s a large atrium area for socializing. Decent travel info too. Dorm ¥35, room ¥138

Huamaguo 花吗国客栈, huāmaguó kèzhàn. Xingren Shangduan, by the big stone bridge tel_icon 0888 5129099. The best of the newer old-style guesthouses, thanks to a superb location right beside the main willow-fringed canal, which you can appreciate from a pleasant courtyard or the pricier rooms. ¥260

Lanchong Inn 懒虫小住客栈, lănchóng xiăozhù kèzhàn. 6 Xingwen Gang, Qiyi Jie tel_icon 1588 7075519, web_icon lanchonginn.taobao.com. Laidback place run by young, friendly staff, popular with young middle-class Chinese backpackers; usual antique style and beautiful mosaic courtyard. It’s close to Sifang and the Mu Palace but the lane itself is fairly quiet. All rooms en suite ¥120

Lao Shay Youth Hostel 老谢车马店, lăoxiè chēmădiàn. 25 Jishan Xiang, Xinyi Jie tel_icon 0888 5116118, web_icon laoshay.com. Located at the heart of the old town, with all the information you could ever need about the area; there’s a wide range of rooms, though it’s a little pricier than its competitors. Dorms ¥45, rooms ¥138

author_pick Leju Yaguo Kezhan 乐居雅国客栈, lèjū yăguó kèzhàn. 13 Xingwen Xiang, Qiyi Jie tel_icon 0888 8882266. A real beauty, friendly and with a courtyard garden full of flowers. Rooms are excellent: smart and modern, and worth the slightly higher-than-average price. ¥200

author_pick Mama Naxi 78 Wenhua Jie tel_icon 0888 5100700 & 70 Wenhua Jie 0888 5107713. The most popular backpacker guesthouse, thanks largely to its welcoming management. All rooms, including three-bed dorms, are arranged around a courtyard. The second, larger, branch has an excellent restaurant offering communal meals cooked by the garrulous owner. Dorms ¥40, rooms ¥150

Moon Inn 新月阁客栈, xīnyuègé kèzhàn. 34 Xingren Xiang, Wuyi Jie tel_icon 0888 5153699, email_icon ericlijiang@163.com. Down a little alley running north by the little stone bridge, this place has a large, quiet courtyard with chairs for lounging, and well-sized rooms. Popular with independent foreign travellers after some mid-range comforts. ¥200

Sunshine Bridge Holiday Inn 民居水景客栈, mínjū shuĭjĭng kèzhàn. 19 Xingren Duan, Wuyi Jie, just by the small stone bridge tel_icon 0888 5112080. Right on a stream, but tucked off the main drag. Very private, with a charming flower garden and great place to sit out for breakfast. ¥200

Yue Lai Inn 悦来客栈, yuèlái kèzhàn. 54 Mishi Xiang, left at the top of the street past Well Bistro tel_icon 1310 8888100. Excellent-value, modern mid-range take on the Naxi courtyard theme, with cobbled courtyard and pleasant, though fairly small, doubles. Don’t take the room at the top of the stairs; they leave the safety light on all night. ¥120

Ziyun Guesthouse 子云客栈, zǐyún kèzhàn. Around the back of the Naxi Orchestra Hall, off Xinyi Jie tel_icon 1398 8892697. What makes this place memorable is that the staff are genuinely friendly, the rooms are tidy and simple, and prices are low. ¥120

EATING AND DRINKING

Local dishes include baba, a stodgy deep-fried flour patty stuffed with meat or cheese and honey; roast and steamed pork; Yunnan ham; chicken steamed in special qiguo casseroles; crossing-the-bridge noodles; chicken steamed with local herbs; grilled fish; and wild plants such as fern tips. Mongolian-style hotpots, cooked at the table in a distinctive copper funnel-pot, are a staple of Naxi home cooking. Foreigner-oriented cafés in the vicinity of Sifang all have wi-fi, book exchanges, mellow music and set-price Western breakfasts. Keep an eye open in the markets for the best walnuts in Yunnan, and bright orange persimmons growing on big, leafless trees around town – these have to be eaten very ripe and are an acquired taste.

author_pick Lamu’s House of Tibet 西藏屋西餐厅, xīzàngwū xīcāntīng. 56 Xinyi Jie tel_icon 0888 115776. Tasty Western and Chinese staples, including filling breakfasts for around ¥30. One of the best places in town to pick up local cycling maps and the latest trekking information for Tiger Leaping Gorge. Daily 7am–10pm.

Muwang Yan Yu 木王盐语, mùwáng yányŭ. 1 Xinyi Jie tel_icon 0888 8887336. One of several local stream-side restaurants serving Naxi-inspired food; camphor-smoked duck, medicinal herb soups, vegetable hotpots and roast meats, plus some Cantonese dishes. Not cheap – expect ¥100/person – but the setting and good service make it perhaps worth a splash. Daily 11am–10pm.

N’s Upstairs Kitchen 二楼小厨, èrlóu xiăochú. 17 Jishan Xiang tel_icon 0888 5120060. Set on Maicao Chang (卖草场, màicăo chăng), the "Grass Market Square" where caravan owners would buy food for their horses, N’s has, quite honestly, the best burgers you’ll get in China (¥45), great breakfasts, coffee at ¥10 a cup, and heaps of hiking and biking information, along with bike rental. Daily 8.30am–10pm.

Naxi Fengwei Xiaochi 纳西风味小吃, nàxī fēngwèi xiăochī. Tucked just off the street past the Prague Café. Small, inexpensive courtyard canteen with the run of Yunnan staples and snacks from ¥15. Steer clear of the yak stew, though – too much stew and precious little yak. Daily 11am–10pm.

author_pick Outdoor Barbecue 烤肉区, kăoròu qū. Junction of Guangyi Jie and Qiyi Jie. An area with dozens of barbecue stalls selling everything from chicken skewers to insect larva kebabs, which gets absolutely rammed around dinner time. Just point and choose, expect to pay ¥5 per skewer, or three for ¥10. Daily 11am–11pm.

Prague Café 布拉格咖啡馆, bùlāgē kāfēi guăn. 80 Mishi Xiang, off Xinyi Jie tel_icon 0888 5123757. Scores highly for its location, excellent coffee and light meals such as sandwiches and pasta from ¥35. Also a great range of cakes, including cheese and blueberry, from ¥20. Daily 8.30am–10pm.

Sakurakim Bar and Café 樱花屋金酒吧, yīnghuāwū jīnjiŭbā. On Sifang tel_icon 1376 9006900, web_icon sakura.yn.cn. A behemoth of the Lijiang nightlife scene, there are about five places here, all under the Sakura umbrella and all offering reasonably priced beers and coffees, and Japanese, Korean and local food from ¥35 per meal. It’s fine for lunch but gets very, very noisy in the evening when the nightclub fires up. Daily 9am–1am.

Well Bistro 井卓餐馆, jǐngzhuō cānguǎn. 32 Mishi Xiang, Xinyi Jie tel_icon 0888 5186431. This cosy place wins universal approval for its pasta, apple cake and chocolate brownies, drinks from ¥20 and meals from ¥40. Daily 11am–10pm.

NIGHTLIFE

Parallel and west of Dong Dajie, narrow Xinhua Jie and Jiuba Jie ("Bar Street") are lined with barn-sized nightclubs, all sporting identical heavy wooden furniture, smoke machines, green-and-blue spots and dancers in fake-ethnic garb doing fake ethnic moves to high-decibel pop.

Come Together Bar 云集酒吧, yúnjí jiǔbā. 130 Wenzhi Xiang, at the junction with Wuyi Lu. Laidback place serving imported European beers at ¥30, but the real highlight is the view from the terrace, looking out over the rooftops of the old town. Daily 6pm–1am.

Stone the Crows 乌鸦酒吧, wūyā jiǔbā. 134 Wenzhi Xiang, Wuyi Jie. Just down hill from Come Together, this place has been stoking the embers of Lijiang’s sputtering foreign party crowd for years. Western music, Western drinks and overwhelmingly Western chat in an enjoyably ramshackle setting. Drinks from ¥20 and there’s a pool table. Daily 6pm–1am.

NAXI MUSIC AND DANCING

The Naxi Orchestra is an established part of Lijiang’s tourist scene. Using antique instruments, the orchestra performs Song-dynasty tunes derived from Taoist scriptures, a tradition said to have arrived in Lijiang with Kublai Khan, who donated half his court orchestra to the town after the Naxi chieftain helped his army cross the Yangzi. The orchestra regrouped after the Cultural Revolution, though the deaths of many older musicians have reduced its repertoire. To counter this, the orchestra’s scope has been broadened by including traditional folk singing in their performances.

The orchestra plays nightly in Lijiang in the well-marked hall on Dong Dajie (8pm; ¥120–160; some agents offer discounted tickets). The music is haunting, but introductory commentaries overlong; try to catch the orchestra practising in the afternoon in Black Dragon Pool Park, for free.

Also on Dong Dajie, another hall, called the "Inheritance and Research Base of China", hosts a song and dance troupe who put on spirited nightly performances to a small audience (8–9.30pm; ¥80). Expect to be dragged on stage at the end. Similar audience participation is encouraged in the nightly dances that start around 7pm in Sifang Square.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING: BAISHA

Country Road Café 乡村路咖啡, xiāngcūn lù kāfēi. Just north from the village centre tel_icon 15288 497325. Café-restaurant supplying light meals for around ¥20, biking and hiking information, plus kung fu demonstrations. The owner Rosey can also help arrange basic homestay accommodation.

Yulong

玉龙, yùlóng

YULONG, 3km north of Baisha, is worth a quick pause to look at the small, Tibetan Yufeng Temple (玉峰寺, yùfēng sì; ¥25, plus the Lijiang Maintenance Fee ticket), set among pine forest. It’s not of great interest in itself, but the pair of ancient, intertwined camellia trees in the top terrace produce huge magenta flowers in spring, when the courtyard with its mosaic floor is a nice spot for peaceful contemplation.

Yuhu

玉湖村, yùhú cūn

Four kilometres beyond Yulong, the tiny Naxi settlement of YUHU is where the eccentric Austrian-American botanist-anthropologist Joseph Rock based himself from 1921 to 1949, and where he wrote articles on the Naxi that appeared in National Geographic magazine. His old wooden house (洛克故居, luòkè gùjū; ¥15), now a simple museum to his memory with a few period photos, is on the main street and is visited daily by busloads of foreigners. Yuhu is otherwise little disturbed by tourism and, set in grassland on the slopes of Yulong Xue Shan, is an attractive place to stop over and do some hiking – again, Wenhai makes a good target.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING: YUHU

Nguluko Guest House 雪嵩客栈, xŭesōng kèzhàn. tel_icon 0888 5131616 or 1398 8838431, email_icon lilyhe9@gmail.com. Provides simple but clean accommodation, with meals and shared facilities in a rustic, Naxi courtyard building. Staff can also help arrange hiking and horseriding tours. ¥100

Yulong Xue Shan

玉龙雪山, yùlóng xuěshān • ¥105 (plus sight of Lijiang Old Town Maintenance Fee ticket) • chairlift fees • reach chairlift stations on minibus #7 (¥15, 1hr) from the northeastern corner of the Xin Dajie/Fuhui Lu intersection in Lijiang

With a summit at 5596m, Yulong Xue Shan can’t be climbed without proper equipment, but you can take in alpine meadows, glaciers and the peaks via three separate chairlifts.

WENHAI

As an alternative to the cable cars for exploring Yulong Xueshan, WENHAI (文海, wénhăi ) is a beautiful lakeside village in the mountain’s foothills that’s a three-hour trek from Baisha or Yuhu. Xintuo Ecotourism ( tel_icon 1398 8826672, web_icon ecotourism.com.cn) charge ¥1000 for a three-day, two-night return trek to Wenhai from Lijiang, including all transport, guides, accommodation and food; contact them in advance about accommodation if you plan to visit independently.

On the mountain

Yunsha Ping (云杉坪, yúnshān píng; chairlift ¥77) is a 3205m plateau with boardwalks leading out to grassland and fir trees, and views of the mountain’s peaks rising above. Similar Maoniu Ping (牦牛坪, máoniú píng; ¥82) is higher at 3600m, with a temple; while the cable car at Ganhaizi (干海子, gànhăizĭ; ¥182 one-way) is an impressive 3km long and climbs to 4506m, where a short trail leads to a windswept viewing point over the Yulong Glacier. Ganhaizi is by far the most spectacular spot, and despite the altitude can get very crowded.

Shigu

石鼓, shígŭ • minibuses to Shigu (¥10) run whenever full from Lijiang’s bus station

Seventy kilometres west of Lijiang on the banks of the Yangzi River, SHIGU (Stone Drum) is a small place named after a tablet raised here in the sixteenth century by one of Lijiang’s Mu clan to mark a particularly bloody victory over an invading army – whether a Tibetan or Chinese force depends on who is telling the story. The river makes its first major bend here, deflected sharply to the northeast towards Tiger Leaping Gorge, having flowed uninterrupted in a 1000km arc from its source away on the Tibet/Qinghai border; there are viewpoints along the waterfront.

Lugu Lake

泸沽湖, lúgū hú • ¥100

Some 200km north of Lijiang, Lugu Lake is shallow and attractive, surrounded by mountains and bisected by the Sichuan border. The people up here are Mosuo, who maintain matrilineal traditions such as axia marriage, where a woman takes several husbands. Women run the households and children are brought up by their mothers – men have no descendants or property rights. Glibly marketed as a "Girl Kingdom" free-for-all to single Chinese men – who inevitably head back home disappointed – tourism has become well established in recent years, but the lake remains a pleasant place to kick back and do nothing much for a couple of days, before making the tiring bus journey to Xichang in southern Sichuan.

FROM TOP LIGE, LUGU LAKE; CYCLING IN LIJIANG

The lake

At more than 2500m above sea level, and surrounded by forested mountains, Lugu Lake’s 10km-long, hourglass-shaped surface is a wonderfully tranquil setting – particularly if you have just escaped the seething crowds of Lijiang. Arriving from the south there are settlements dotted along the shore leading up to, and past, the Sichuan border. There’s not a vast amount to do here beyond strolling in the villages and surrounding hills, and taking the odd boat trip to one of the lake’s five islands, but it is all wonderfully relaxing, calm and, above all, peaceful. Wherever you end up, minibuses shuttle between villages, wooden canoes can be hired out for trips across the lake, and accommodation can provide just about everything you’ll need.

The villages

The largest village, where buses from Lijiang drop tourists, is LUOSHUI (落水, luòshuĭ) on the west shore, with cobbled streets, a central square, some gift shops, guesthouses and a few basic facilities. It’s quaint enough, but most people don’t stay long, opting instead to head northwest to tiny LIGE (里格, lĭgé), set on an attractive bay. Lige mostly comprises guesthouses and restaurants these days, but remains a quiet and enjoyable place to rest up for a few nights. Venture further beyond Lige and you’re into Sichuan, where LUGUHU ZHEN (泸沽湖镇, lúgūhú zhèn) is the main town and Wuzhiluo (五指落, wŭzhĭluò) – a nearby string of houses along the shore – the nicest spot to settle down.

TO SICHUAN VIA PANZHIHUA

From Lijiang, the quickest route into Sichuan begins by catching a bus 200km east to heavily industrialized PANZHIHUA (攀枝花, pānzhīhuā; 10hr; ¥80), a stop on the Kunming–Chengdu rail line. Buses set down right outside the train station: try and get on one of the evening trains, as Panzhihua is no place to stay for long. The train ride to Chengdu goes via Xichang and Emei Shan, and takes a further 10–14 hours. The train station is a good 10km out of town, but for overnight accommodation the Juxing Hotel (聚兴酒店, jùxīng jiǔdiàn; ¥100) is directly opposite, and there’s a daybreak bus back to Lijiang.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: LUGU LAKE

By plane Lugu Lake airport (泸沽湖机场, lúgūhú jīchǎng), about two hours south of the lake at Ninglang, is due to open at some point in 2014; initial flights are scheduled to Kunming and Guangzhou.

By bus Lugu Lake is on a back road between Lijiang and Xichang in southern Sichuan province, with daily connections to both. Buses from Lijiang (6hr) stop at Luoshi and Lige on the northwest side of the lake; those from Xichang terminate at Lugu Zhen on the eastern shore. Leaving, you’ll need to book your seat through accommodation the day before.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Village restaurants lay on evening barbecues of grilled lake fish and whole suckling pigs, while Lao Shay and Wind’s hostels serve pretty decent Chinese and Western staples – though come prepared for laidback service.

LIGE

Lao Shay Youth Hostel 老谢车马店, lăoxiè chēmădiàn. tel_icon 0888 5881555, web_icon laoshay.com. Sister to the hostel in Lijiang, whose comfortable dorms and pricey doubles (some without windows) are similarly decked out in Naxi-style decor. Dorms ¥45, rooms ¥238

Husi Teahouse Hostel 湖思茶屋, húsī cháwū. tel_icon 0888 5825071, web_icon husihostel.com. Right on the lake shore, the restaurant area has fantastic views across the water, as do some rooms on the upper floors. En suites are a definite step up in quality from the dorms or those with shared bathrooms. Dorms ¥45, rooms ¥100

WUZHILUO

Wind’s Guesthouse 湖畔青年旅舍, húpàn qīngnián lǚshè. tel_icon 0888 5824284, web_icon windguesthouse.com. Fulfils all the usual backpacker needs – dorms, café, information – and located on a rather under-visited side of the lake. With plenty of advance notice, can arrange 10-day horse-treks to Yading in Sichuan. Beds ¥35, rooms ¥88

Tiger Leaping Gorge

虎跳峡, hŭtiào xiá • ¥65

Around 100km north of Lijiang, just east of the highway to Shangri-La, the Yangzi River channels violently through Tiger Leaping Gorge, the 3000m-deep rift between Haba Xue Shan to the north and Yulong Xue Shan to the south. The hiking trail through the gorge is one of the most accessible and satisfying in China, with dramatic scenery and – despite the 2500m-plus altitude – relatively straightforward walking.

HIKING TIGER LEAPING GORGE

To hike Tiger Leaping Gorge, you’ll need to be fit, carrying full weatherproof gear, a torch and a first-aid pack, and to be stocked up with snacks and a water bottle. Solid boots are a plus but, as long as your shoes have a firm grip, not essential. Weather can be warm enough in summer to hike in a T-shirt, but don’t count on it; winters are cold. Accommodation along the way is in guesthouses, so you won’t need a tent. Two days is the minimum time needed for a hike; give yourself an extra day to make the most of the scenery.

Originally there were two trails through the gorge, but the former Lower Path has been surfaced to handle tour buses, and isn’t suitable for hiking anymore – though it’s useful if you’re looking for a quick ride out at the end of your trek. The remaining Upper Path is the route described below. End points are at westerly Qiaotou, on the Lijiang to Shangri-La road, and easterly Daju, a small township on a back route to Lijiang. Most people hike from Qiaotou to the midpoint around Walnut Garden – which covers the best of the scenery – and then catch transport back to Qiaotou and thence on to Lijiang or Shangri-La; the advantage here is that you can leave heavy bags at Qiaotou. Alternatively, you can continue on from Walnut Garden to Daju, or – with a guide – north to Baishui Tai. Before you arrive, try to pick up the home-made maps that float around cafés in Lijiang and Shangri-La.

There seem to be almost continual roadworks going on in the gorge, connected with ongoing construction of a hydro dam across the river and regular seasonal landslides, a potentially lethal hazard; do not hike in bad weather or during the June–September rainy season. There have been a couple of knifepoint muggings of solo travellers in past years, so try not to walk alone. For current information, check web_icon www.tigerleapinggorge.com, maintained by Sean’s Guesthouse in Walnut Garden.

Qiaotou to Walnut Garden

Buses from Lijiang deliver to main-road QIAOTOU (桥头, qiáotóu), also known as Hutiaoxia Zhen (虎跳峡镇, hŭtiàoxiá zhèn), a knot of cafés and shops at the western entrance to the gorge. Once across the bridge the vehicle road heads downhill, but past the school hikers need to start heading uphill – you’ll be followed by horse teams offering to carry your bags. From here the going is steady until you reach the Naxi Family Guesthouse at the start of the steep, twisting Twenty-four Bends. At the top of this you’re about five hours into the hike at 2670m, near the Tea Horse Guesthouse and gifted with superb views.

From here the track levels out a bit before descending, via the Halfway Guesthouse at Bendiwan village (本地湾村, běndìwān cūn) and some waterfalls, to the vehicle road at Tina’s Guesthouse. You’ve now been walking for around nine hours, with a further thirty-minute level track to WALNUT GARDEN (核桃园, hétáo yuán) and more accommodation.

Walnut Garden to Daju

One option from Walnut Garden is simply to arrange a ride with minibuses back to Qiaotou along the vehicle road. Alternatively, it’s a couple of hours eastwards, partly along the road, to the New Ferry over the Yangzi River. How much you’ll pay depends on the whim of the ferryman, but don’t expect to get off lightly – ¥40 or more per person is normal. From here, you’ve another hour’s walk to the vehicle roadhead at Xiahu Tiao (下虎跳, xiàhŭ tiào), and then a final 7km to DAJU (大具, dàjù), where buses head south to Lijiang until about 1.30pm.

Walnut Garden to Baishui Tai

Accommodation at Walnut Garden can arrange a guide for the popular two-day trek, via an overnight stop in pretty HABA village (哈巴村, hābācūn), to Baishui Tai, which has charmless guesthouses and a bus on to Shangri-La. You might prefer to tackle this trek southwards from Baishui Tai as an alternative route into Tiger Leaping Gorge – in this direction, it heads downhill much of the time.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: TIGER LEAPING GORGE

By bus Qiaotou, at the western end of Tiger Leaping Gorge, sits on the highway between Lijiang and Shangri-La and is served through the day by buses from both. Daju, at the eastern end of the gorge, has a couple of services daily to a depot in Lijiang at the corner of Changshui Lu and Minzhu Lu, just outside the old town’s southwestern edge.

ACCOMMODATION

Haba Snow Mountain Guesthouse 哈巴雪山客栈, hābā xuěshān kèzhàn. Haba village, between Walnut Garden and Baishui Tai tel_icon 0887 8866596. Recently refurbished and now the proud host of clean rooms and steaming hot showers; the enthusiastic owner will also cook up basic meals – just point out the ingredients you fancy in her kitchen. Dorm ¥35, room ¥88

Naxi Family Guesthouse 纳西雅阁, nàxī yăgé. Changshen Village tel_icon 0887 8806928. Pleasant rooms with great views around a traditional courtyard and friendly staff make this an enjoyable stopoff if you’re taking things at a relaxed pace. Dorm ¥35, room ¥70

Sean’s Spring Guesthouse 山泉客栈, shānquán kèzhàn. Walnut Garden tel_icon 1575 8456256, web_icon tigerleapinggorge.com. A pleasantly low-key, friendly place with good meals, beer, warm beds and the eponymous, Tibetan, owner. Dorm ¥35, room ¥70

Tea Horse Guesthouse 茶马客栈, chámă kèzhàn. Yongsheng Village tel_icon 1398 8717292. One of several places at roughly the half-way point. Aside from the fantastic views shared by most accommodation, Tea Horse also offers massages to ease aching limbs, often a clincher in the decision-making process. Dorm ¥30, room ¥120

Tina’s Guesthouse 中峡国际青年旅舍, zhōngxiá guójì qīngnián lǚshě. Jiantang village tel_icon 0887 8202258 or 1398 8750111. Large and pretty ugly compared to most of the guesthouses along the gorge, Tina’s is still a comfortable place to stay, has excellent facilities, and the views from inside are as good as anywhere else. Dorms ¥30, rooms ¥120

Shangri-La

香格里拉, xiānggélĭlā • 中甸, zhōngdiàn

SHANGRI-LA, also known as Zhongdian – or Gyalthang in Tibetan – sits on a high plateau at the borderland between Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet. When this former logging town was hit by a 1998 ban on deforestation, the provincial government renamed it Shangri-La after the Buddhist paradise of James Hilton’s 1930s novel, Lost Horizon, to try to stimulate a tourist boom. They also spent a fortune turning the dismally poor Tibetan settlement here into a fairly convincing "old town", complete with obligatory traditional houses, cobbled streets, religous monuments, cafés, guesthouses and bars; there are also less contrived attractions in the monastery just north of town and excellent possibilities for local hiking and horseriding. Shangri-La’s altitude is over 3000m, so take it easy if you’ve arrived from the lowlands, and be aware that’s it’s very chilly between October and March.

The old town

古城, gŭchéng

Down at the southern outskirts of Shangri-La, the old town is good for a couple of hours’ wander, though there are no essential sights; streets are unsigned and weave off in all directions, but as the whole place is only a few hundred metres across you can’t get seriously lost. The alleyways are lined with sturdy two-storey wooden Tibetan homes, all built with a great deal of skill and care; they look as though they’ll stand for centuries, which you can’t say about most contemporary Chinese buildings. Overlooking the old town, Turtle Hill is topped by a small temple and huge golden prayer wheel, apparently the largest in the world.

THE 2014 FIRE

In January 2014, a massive fire swept through Shangrila-La’s old town, destroying over 200 of the wooden, Tibetan-style buildings. At the time of writing it was impossible to know how much, if any, of the town has survived, but damage has certainly been severe and extensive. For the latest information, it’s best to contact one of the tour agents listed in Arrival and departure.

The new town

Despite a backdrop of scruffy concrete-and-tile buildings, there’s also a bit of interest in the new town. Changzheng Dadao is lined with shops aimed at Tibetan customers, where you can buy everything from electric blenders for churning butter tea, to carpets, horse saddles, copperware and fur-lined jackets and boots. The farmers’ market (建塘农市场, jiàntáng nóng shìchăng), about a block north of the post office, has more of the same along with big blocks of yak butter and other foodstuffs.

Ganden Sumtseling Monastery

松赞林寺, sōngzànlín sì • ¥115 • northbound bus #3 from Changzheng Dadao

Shangri-La’s star attraction is the splendid Ganden Sumtseling Monastery, just north of the new town. Destroyed during the 1960s but later reactivated, it now houses four hundred Tibetan monks. Among butter sculptures and a forest of pillars, the freshly painted murals in the claustrophobic, windowless main hall are typically gruesome and colourful. Don’t forget that, as in all Gelugpa-sect monasteries, you should walk clockwise around both the monastery and each hall.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: SHANGRI-LA

Shangri-La has regular bus connections to Lijiang, Deqin and Sichuan – see the section on Overland for details about entering Tibet. Incidentally, "Zhongdian" is the name you’ll hear used most frequently on transport timetables; only the tourist industry favours "Shangri-La".

By plane Tiny Shangri-La Airport (香格里拉机场, xiānggélĭlā jīchăng), confusingly known as Deqing Airport, is 7km south; a taxi costs ¥30, or, if there is one, catch bus #6 to the bus station, in the far north of town. There’s a useful airline ticket office ( tel_icon 0887 8288877) just outside the old town at the small square on the junction of Changzheng Dadao and Tuanjie Lu.

Destinations Kunming (2 daily; 1hr; ¥1180); Lhasa (2 weekly; ¥1480).

By bus The bus station is at the far north end of town at the intersection of Xiangbala Lu and Kangding Lu; from here, bus #1 runs south to the old town’s outskirts. Advance tickets are available 36 hours prior to departure at the bus station.

Destinations Dali (7hr); Daocheng, Sichuan (1 daily; 5hr); Deqin (3 daily; 6hr); Lijiang (3hr 30min); Litang, Sichuan (10hr); Xiaguan (6hr).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Buses run 7am–6.30pm and charge ¥1, though Shangri-La is small enough not to warrant a bus journey in town.

By bicycle Some accommodation rents out bikes at around ¥20/day, plus passport as a deposit.

By taxi Cabs cost a fixed ¥6 within the town limits, though this rises swiftly for trips to the surrounding countryside.

ACCOMMODATION

Shangri-La’s best accommodation options are down in the old town. Most have wi-fi (if not, head to cafés) and look, at least on the outside, as if they occupy traditional Tibetan houses. In recent years, with the backpacker market saturated, several boutique, more upmarket places have started to appear.

author_pick Arro Khampa 阿若康巴南索达庄园, āruò kāngbā nánsuŏdá zhuāngyuán. 15 Jinlong Jie, Donglan Lu tel_icon 0887 8881006. At the bottom end of the old town, this new venture is the most luxurious place to stay within Shangri-La itself. The 17 beautifully decorated timber and stone rooms surround a courtyard restaurant area, and the hotel also offers various spa treatments. ¥900

Barley 青稞客栈, qīngkē kèzhàn. 76 Beimen Jie tel_icon 0887 8232100. Colourful, if slightly ramshackle, courtyard guesthouse with warm terrace run by a Tibetan family, where they’ve taken some trouble to make the simple rooms attractive and comfortable. Dorms ¥30, rooms ¥120

Barley Villa 青稞别院, qīngkē biéyuàn. On the far side of the old town near Tancheng Square tel_icon 0887 8290688. This beautifully refurbished Tibetan-style farm house around a bright open courtyard is a world away from their hostel. The large rooms are expensive, but those in the mid-range are a bit of a bargain. Doubles ¥280, large rooms ¥800

Bright 鲁生追康客栈, lŭshēngzhuīkāng kèzhàn. 13 Dianlaka, next to the Raven tel_icon 0887 8288687. If you’re after a straightforward, roomy en-suite double, this is your best bet – though, despite a "Tibetan" exterior, inside the hotel is a standard Chinese effort with little local character. ¥100

Gyalthang Dzong Hotel 建格宾馆, jiàngé bīnguǎn. tel_icon 0887 8223646, web_icon gyalthangdzong.com. A quiet designer hotel at the foot of a hill 3km east from town whose decor, all orange drapes, lacquer and longevity symbols, might best be described as Tibetan minimalist. There’s a spa and a bar, but no TVs anywhere on site. Substantial discounts available online. ¥400

author_pick Kersang’s Relay Station 恪桑藏驿, késāng zàngyì. 1 Yamenlang, Jinlong Jie, behind the Arro Khampa restaurant tel_icon 0887 8223118 or 1398 8797785. Boutique Tibetan-run guesthouse decked in pine, rugs and colourful furnishings. Each room has a balcony, which makes the fairly small rooms feel more spacious. Rooftop terrace with views over town. Owner also arranges motorbike rental and tours. Dorm ¥50, room ¥180

Kevin’s Trekker Inn 龙门客栈, lóngmén kèzhàn. Just outside the old town at 138 Dawa Lu tel_icon 0887 8228178, web_icon kevintrekkerinn.com. Modern concrete buildings around a large courtyard; the big lounge area, cheerful rooms and the manager’s trekking and touring info make this an excellent choice. Dorms ¥30, rooms ¥120

Old Town Youth Hostel 独克宗国际青年旅馆, dúkèzōng guójì qīngnián lǚguǎn. 4 Zoubarui, Jinlong Jie tel_icon 0887 8227505. Straightforward, snug wood-panelled rooms, with a very helpful manager; the building itself is nothing special, however. Dorms ¥30, rooms ¥80

Songtsam Retreat 松赞林卡酒店, sōngzànlínkă jiŭdiàn. tel_icon 0887 8285566, web_icon songtsam.com. The very upmarket wing of the Ganden Sumtseling Monastery’s accommodation; a tasteful, atmospheric – not to mention luxurious – place to stay, with views over the monastery building. ¥760

EATING AND DRINKING

As with accommodation, the old town has the pick of the eating opportunities; the cafés also have free wi-fi for customers. For cheap staples, there are many Muslim places in the New Town serving noodles and dumplings. As there’s no street lighting, mind those cobbles on the way home.

Arro Khampa 阿若康巴餐厅, āruò kāngbā cāntīng. 27 Jinlong Jie, south of the Old Town Youth Hostel tel_icon 1338 8873878. This smart French-Tibetan outfit wears its Gallic heart on its sleeve, with a signature Tibetan raclette – local charcuterie smothered in melted cheese. The special will set you back ¥188 per person and needs to be ordered before 5pm, but elsewhere on the menu you can eat for around ¥60. Daily 9am–10pm.

Compass 舒灯库乐, shūdēng kùlè. 3 Chilang Gang, just off the main square in the old town tel_icon 0887 8223638. Unashamedly Western food – pizza, burgers, spaghetti, sandwiches – served up in a sympathetic mock-Tibetan interior. Mains around ¥40. Tues–Sun 8.30am–10pm.

Helen’s Pizza 比萨屋, bĭsàwū. Dawa Lu, on the corner with Heping Lu tel_icon 0887 8224456. Helen whips up what are certainly the best pizzas and calzone in town – yours for only ¥38 – perhaps because they use imported olive oil, not yak butter. There are other Italian/Western options on the menu, but pizza is what they do best. Daily 9am–10pm.

author_pick Karma Café 卡玛咖非, kămă kāfēi. 6 Lunhuolang, Jinlong Jie tel_icon 0887 8224768. Virtually impossible to find, and accessed via a narrow lane running up the east side of the Arro Khampa hotel, you could easily walk past this place without even realizing. It’s worth the effort of tracking down, though; decrepit from the outside, inside it’s a beautifully restored old house serving outstanding yak steak and mashed potatoes for a bargain ¥48. Tibetan snacks and a set meal (¥60/person) will leave you bursting. Great place for quiet coffee too. Daily 10.30am–10pm.

N’s Kitchen 依若木廊厨房, yīruò mùláng chúfáng. 33 Beimen Jie tel_icon 0887 8233870. This bright, modern and clean place is popular for Western breakfasts and great coffee, though at around ¥30 a plateful, it’s just a little bit more expensive than its competitors. You can also rent bikes, pick up cycling maps and arrange tours. Daily 8am–10pm.

Potala Café 布达拉咖啡, bùdálā kāfēi. Dawa Lu, corner of Changzhen Dadao tel_icon 0887 8228278. This upstairs Tibetan teahouse serves up big, cheap portions of Western, Tibetan and Chinese food for ¥20–50, and hot chocolate made with the real thing, not powder. The ambience is pleasant, attracting a mix of Chinese tourists, grizzly locals and foreigners. Daily 9am–10pm.

author_pick Raven 乌鸦酒吧, wūyā jiŭbā. 19 Dianlaka tel_icon 0887 8289239. Friendly and atmospheric foreign-owned bar with pool table, beer from ¥20 and a huge stock of spirits; the best place to get the lowdown on the local scene. Daily 4pm–late.

Rose’s 加瑟米朵, jiāsèmĭ duŏ. 15 Cuolang Jie tel_icon 1398 8768377. A pretty little teahouse serving drinks (¥15) and light meals (¥25) in pleasant café surroundings, although it is marred in the evening by noise from the nightclub opposite. Daily 9am–10pm.

author_pick Tantra Resto Bar 唐得拉餐吧, tángdélā cān bā. Dawa Lu tel_icon 0887 8881213. Another result of international fusion, with Indian, Tibetan and Chilean influence all perfectly brought to the boil. As well as serving probably the best curry in town for ¥38, you’ll also find South American favourites, including empanadas, and the ever-convivial Ricky behind the bar. Daily 9am–10.30pm.

SHOPPING

Handicrafts One business employing Tibetans and preserving local crafts is the Shangri-La Handicraft Centre at 1 Jinlong Jie ( tel_icon 0887 8227742, web_icon ymhfshangrila.com), a cultural centre aimed particularly at supporting women in the local community. They’re open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.

REACHING SIGHTS AROUND SHANGRI-LA

You can cycle from Shangri-La to a couple of the closer sights, but anywhere further will require a vehicle – either rented through Turtle Mountain, or by heading down to the little square on Tuanjie Lu, at the edge of the old town, where minibus drivers will approach you and offer their services. The likely rate is ¥150–300 per day, depending on destination and bargaining skills.

TOUR AGENTS

Haiwei Trails above the bar at the Raven ( tel_icon 0887 8289245 or 1398 8756540, web_icon haiweitrails.com). Plenty of imaginative treks and mountain-biking across northwestern Yunnan.

author_pick Khampa Caravan Dawa Lu ( tel_icon 0887 8288648, web_icon khampacaravan.com). Long-established agency who offer everything from easy day hikes and sorting out Tibet logistics, to multiday treks to Lijiang or into Sichuan; one of their specialities is the demanding fourteen-day kora circuit around Meili Xue Shan. All their guides are local Tibetans, fluent in English.

Turtle Mountain off Beimen Jie at 32 Gun Ma Lang ( tel_icon 0877 8233308, web_icon turtlemountaingear.com). Another excellent option whose American owner, long resident in Shangri-La, has solid hiking and exploring information. They also stock a range of camping supplies and rent ski gear, snowboards, motorbikes (with breakdown support) and jeeps.

Napa Lake

纳帕海, nàpà hăi • ¥40

Shallow Napa Lake, 7km north of town, is a seasonal wetlands which attracts rare black-necked cranes in winter. Through the summer it’s more of a pasture for yaks, thick with grass and flowers; there’s a Botanic Gardens (¥20) and café just outside, where at certain times of the year you can see blue poppies and orchids. Pick up a cycling map for Napa from N’s Kitchen in Shangri-La.

Xiagei Hot Springs

下给温泉, xiàgěi wēnquán • ¥30 • rafting on the river with any tour agency in town ¥200 for an afternoon

Ten kilometres east of town, the Xiagei Hot Springs are attractively situated beside a river and below a cave. Eschew the claustrophobic private rooms and swim in the small public pool; a shop on site sells swimming trunks (¥20). There’s also a walking trail, and rafting trips available on the river.

Pudacuo National Park

普达措国家公园, pŭdácuò guójiā gōngyuán • ¥190, including bus inside the park • boat ride ¥30 • horse rental ¥50–80

Pudacuo National Park covers a huge area some 25km east of Shangri-La past Xiagei, with two alpine lakes within day-trip range. The first, Shuodu Lake (属都海, shŭdōu hăi), is a renowned beauty spot that attracts plenty of tour buses. However, day-trippers don’t seem to get much further than the restaurant and the huge shop in the car park that sells traditional medicines such as ginseng and dried ants. Turn right and follow the lakeshore for a pleasant, easy walk through old forest. Horses can carry you all the way around the lake, which will take about two hours, or you can walk it in four.

Bita Lake

碧塔海, bìtă hăi • boats a negotiable ¥30/person

The less visited of Pudacuo’s two sections, attractive Bita Lake is set at an altitude of 3500m and surrounded by lush meadows and unspoilt forest. The best way to explore the place is to ask to be dropped at either of its two entrances, south or west, and then be picked up at the other. Most visitors arrive at the south entrance, from where it’s an easy walk down to the lake. Take a rowing boat across to the ferry quay, and you can then walk for around two hours along a well-marked trail to the west entrance.

Baishui Tai

白水台, báishuĭ tái • ¥30

Around 60km southeast of Shangri-La on the north side of Haba Xue Shan from Tiger Leaping Gorge, Baishui Tai is a large, milky-white series of limestone terraces, built up over thousands of years as lime-rich water cascaded down a hillside. Plenty of less prosaic legends account for their formation too, and this is one of the holy sites of the Naxi. Wooden ladders allow in-depth exploration of the tiers, which glow orange at sunset. The village at the foot of the site, Sanba (三坝, sānbà), is busy transforming itself into a tourist town of guesthouses, all of which offer basic and fairly unattractive rooms.

Until recently Baishu Tai was quite remote, but now a back road from Qiaotao, at the mouth of Tiger Leaping Gorge, links it to Shangri-La; you can also hike from here to Walnut Garden in two days via Haba village.

Deqin

德钦, déqīn

DEQIN lies around 120km north of Shangri-La across some permanently snowy ranges, only 80km from the Tibetan border at Yunnan’s northwestern extremes. The town itself, a charmlessly ramshackle, tile-hung outpost, is no great shakes, but there are exciting opportunities for hiking around nearby Meili Xue Shan, whose thirteen peaks are of great religious significance to Tibetans.

Feilai Temple

飞来寺, fēilái sì • observation platform ¥60 • taxi from Deqin about ¥30 each way

Unless you miss all transport out, it’s better to skip Deqin town altogether in favour of heading another 15km north to the Meili Xue Shan viewing point just below Feilai Temple – a name which now refers not only to the temple complex itself but also to the growing cluster of hostels, guesthouses and restaurants along the main road below. There used to be sublime vistas of the mountain from here, but, in a demonstration of extreme greed, the local authorities have built a wall, forcing tourists to pay to use an observation platform.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: DEQIN

By bus Deqin’s bus station (7am–7pm) is on the main street towards the north end of town.

Destinations Kunming (19hr); Lijiang (11hr); Shangri-La (8hr).

GETTING AROUND

Minibus Minivans cruise Deqin’s main street looking for passengers, and set off only once full. The trip to Feilai Temple is ¥5 per person.

Taxi You’ll see a few, often informal, taxis along Deqin’s single main street and you’re likely to be approached by drivers hawking for business. The 10km run up to Feilai Temple should cost around ¥30.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

DEQIN

Dragon Cloud Guesthouse 龙行客栈, lóngxíng kèzhàn. 94 Beimen Jie, 1km or so south of the bus station tel_icon 0887 8289250, web_icon dragoncloud.cn. Traditional-style wooden-framed Tibetan building with a contemporary/Western coffee shop attached, plus clean, basic rooms with shower and toilet. ¥140

FEILAI TEMPLE

As a well-established tourist stop, there is no shortage of places to stay or eat at Feilai Temple, though prices are relatively high.

Feilai Si Youth Hostel 飞来寺国际青年旅舍, fēiláisì guójì qīngnián lǚshě. North side of the main road, up a small turn-off just before the ninety-degree bend leading up to the temple tel_icon 0887-8416133 or 1338 8875 956. A pretty Tibetan-style building with decorations inside and out; some English spoken. Rooms, dorms particularly, can be a bit grubby. Wi-fi throughout and hot water evenings and mornings. Dorm ¥80, room ¥230

Meili Guesthouse 梅里客栈, méilĭ kèzhàn. South side of the main road, just before the ninety-degree bend leading up to the temple tel_icon 0887 8416998 or 1398 8755717. As well as basic comfortable rooms, this straightforward guesthouse has internet access and, best of all, hot water around the clock. Dorm ¥40, room ¥240

Meili Xue Shan

梅里雪山, méilǐ xuěshān • three different tickets covering a number of sites ¥150–230

Sacred to Tibetan Buddhists as home to the protective warrior god Kawagarpo, as well as attracting tourists drawn by its natural beauty, the Meili Xue Shan range is also visited by tens of thousands of pilgrims each year. While the arduous two-week kora circuit of the mountain conducted by the faithful is not for everyone, there are also some less demanding hikes – still with spectacular views – to be had.

Entry to the park area is from Xidang, while most visitors stay in Yubang as a base for hiking local trails. Any visit to the area should be taken seriously, despite the relatively well-worn paths: always carry food, water, a torch and first-aid kit. Full weatherproof gear and good hiking shoes are a necessity.

THE KAWA KARPO KORA

Meili Xue Shan’s highest peak, unclimbed Kawa Karpo (6740m), is holy to Tibetans, who trek around its base every year to complete the Kawa Karpo kora, or pilgrimage circuit, three circumnavigations of which are said to guarantee a beneficial reincarnation. The circuit takes fourteen days or so, beginning in Deqin and ending in the village of Meili. If you plan to attempt it, be aware that the route crosses the Tibetan border and you need permits, as the police keep an eye on this area; you also definitely need a guide – you’re above 4000m most of the time and people have died attempting the trek solo. Travel agencies in Shangri-La can make all arrangements for you.

Xidang

西当, xīdāng

From the Feilai Temple viewing point, it’s a ninety-minute drive to the Meili Xue Shan reserve entrance at pretty XIDANG village, which sits high above the Lancang Jiang (Mekong River). There’s accommodation here and a three-hour ascent on foot along a reasonable road to the Mingyong glacier (明永冰川, míngyŏng bīngchuān), one of the world’s lowest at 2700m, and advancing relatively quickly at 500m per year. You’ll find a fair few souvenir shops and guesthouses at the glacier viewing point.

About 3km past Xidang village on the path to Yubeng, Xidang Hot Springs (温泉, wēnquán) sound better than they are – instead of invitingly steaming outdoor pools, the water is piped into people’s houses where you pay to take a shower.

Yubeng

雨崩, yŭbēng • ¥85

From Xidang’s hot springs, a hiking trail heads west to the hamlet of Yubeng, though bear in mind that it should not be attempted alone or unprepared. The route kicks off with a gruelling four-hour ascent to 3800m-high Nazongla Pass, followed by ninety minutes down a well-marked trail to UPPER YUBENG (雨崩上村, yŭbēng shàngcūn), a Tibetan settlement of considerable charm.

Lower Yubeng

雨崩下村, yŭbēng xiàcūn

Though plenty of visitors stay with families in Upper Yubeng, it’s worth persevering to the even prettier LOWER YUBENG – take the trail to the left as you come into Upper Yubeng and walk for thirty minutes, over a stream and then a bridge. The most popular trip from Lower Yubeng is the straightforward two-hour walk to the dramatic Yubeng Shenpu (雨崩神瀑, yŭbēng shénpù), a sacred waterfall, with bears, snow leopards and the highly endangered Yunnan golden monkey said to be lurking in the nearby forests.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: MEILI XUE SHAN

By taxi or minibus The run between Feilai Temple and the Meili Xue Shan entrance at Xidang costs about ¥150 for a cab or ¥15 per person in a minibus, which depart once full.

ACCOMMODATION

UPPER YUBENG

Family homestays at Upper Yubeng charge about ¥10/night, plus ¥10 for a meal.

LOWER YUBENG

Aqinbu’s Mystic Waterfall Lodge 神瀑客栈, shénbào kèzhàn. Lower Yubeng tel_icon 0887 8411082. At the end of Lower Yubeng, this farmhouse-style hostel, with the brilliant green, cloud-swept mountains rearing up behind, makes a handy base for further treks, on which the helpful owner can advise. Dorm ¥25, rooms ¥100

< Back to Yunnan

The far west

Southwest of Xiaguan, Yunnan’s far west bumps up against the Burmese border, an increasingly tropical area of mountain forests and broad valleys planted with rice and sugar cane, all cut by the deep watershed gorges of Southeast Asia’s mighty Mekong and Salween rivers (in Chinese, the Lancang Jiang and Nu Jiang, respectively). Settlements have large populations of ethnic minorities, and mainstream China has never had a great presence in the region; indeed, at times it’s still often unclear whether rules and regulations originate in Beijing or with the nearest officer in charge.

The far west’s main artery, the underused G56 Expressway, roughly follows the route of the old Burma Road, built during World War II as a supply line between British-held Burma and Kunming, from where goods were shipped to China’s wartime capital, Chongqing. Something of the road’s original purpose survives today, with towns along the way, especially Ruili, right on the Burmese frontier, still clearly benefiting from the cross-border traffic. With the exception of geologically unsettled Tengchong, however, sights are few and – unless you’re heading into Burma – the main point of visiting is simply to experience a fairly untouristed, if not actually remote, corner of the country, not least along the upper reaches of the Nu Jiang Valley.

Transport through the far west is by bus, though you can also fly to Tengchong and the district capital Mangshi, just a couple of hours by road from Ruili. Some minor scuffles along the Burmese border in recent years, plus the area’s perennial drug-trafficking problems, mean you’ll encounter military checkpoints in the region, where you have to show passports and wait while vehicles are checked for contraband. The weather is subtropically humid, especially during the wet season between May and October, when landslides frequently cut smaller roads.

The Nu Jiang valley

Far over near China’s border with Burma, the Nu Jiang, or Salween River, enters Yunnan from Tibet and flows south for over 500km through the province. To the east towers the Gaoligong mountain range, a huge rock wall that has kept this area an isolated backwater: the only connection with the rest of the province is the road from Xiaguan via Liuku to the head of the valley at Bingzhongluo, from where hardy trekkers can hike over the mountains to Deqin.

There are some fascinating attractions in this, Yunnan’s last true wilderness and part of the UNESCO Three Parallel Rivers World Heritage Site. The Nu Jiang itself is narrow, fast, full of rapids and crisscrossed by precarious rope bridges, and the settlements clinging to the gorge’s sides are highly picturesque. Most of the population are Tibetan, Lisu or Dulong, and there are a surprising number of Catholics, the result of French missionary work during the nineteenth century.

The far north of the Nu valley, being effectively a dead end, is also very poor, and degrees of malnutrition and alcoholism can be seen among the local minorities. Though tourism promises to be a lucrative new source of income, as yet there are fairly few facilities. Certainly it is not a good idea to venture too far alone, and a local guide is always advised for any ambitious walk.

TOURS TO THE NU JIANG VALLEY

Tourism to the Nu Jiang Valley is in its infancy, with regional agencies offering guided treks – currently the best way to explore the area. While tours organized from Dali and Lijiang are likely to access the river valley via Xiaguan, agencies in Shangri-La may be able to organize a trek west towards the far north of the area, depending on the time of year. Be wary trekking in winter and spring, however, when high rainfall makes landslides common.

Liuku

六库, liùkù

Buses from Kunming, Tengchong, Xiaguan or Baoshan can get you to LIUKU – also known as Lushui (泸水县, lúshuĭ xiàn) – the capital of Nu Jiang prefecture. This rapidly expanding, modern town straddles both sides of the Nu Jiang, its streets lined with the usual clothing, shoe and mobile phone emporiums; there’s little to see aside from nightly dancing down by the river and an eight-storey pagoda on a ridge north of town, and most people only stop overnight on the way up to Bingzhongluo. Around December 20, however, the Lisu hold the Kuoshijie festival, at which, besides singing and dancing, you’ll see local men showing off by climbing poles barefoot using swords as steps.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: LIUKU

By bus Liuku’s bus station (7am–7pm) is on the east side of the river, 2km south of the town centre. A taxi into town from the bus station is a flat ¥15.

Destinations Baoshan (4hr); Bingzhongluo (9hr); Fugong (4hr); Gongshan (8hr); Kunming (12hr); Tengchong (5hr); Xiaguan (5hr).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

For food, try the covered night market area along the east bank of the river between Zhenxing Lu and the road bridge. As well as barbecues and Sichuan restaurants, there are also a couple of waterfront bars.

Jindou Binguan 金都宾馆, jīndōu bīnguǎn. 282 Chuancheng Lu tel_icon 0886 3629555. Useful budget option in the middle of town, whose serviceable tile-clad doubles come with en-suite showers and squat toilets. ¥80

Shengshi Hongbang Hotel 晟世红邦大酒店, shèngshì hóngbāng dàjiŭdiàn. Corner of Renmin Lu and Xiangyang Dong Lu tel_icon 0886 8887888. The most upmarket place in town at time of writing, featuring clean en-suite rooms with a/c and internet. Wi-fi is available in the lobby. ¥200

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: FUGONG

By bus Fugong’s bus station (7am–7pm) is in the centre of town, just off the main street.

Destinations Bingzhongluo (5hr); Gongshan (4hr); Kunming (16hr); Liuku (4hr).

ACCOMMODATION

Fugong Binguan 福熙宾馆, fúxī bīnguăn. Next door to the bus station tel_icon 0886 3411442. You’d only really stop in Fugong if you arrived too late to leave again. Conveniently next door to the bus station, this place has clean enough doubles with attached bathrooms for an overnight stay ahead of an early escape. ¥60

Gongshan

贡山, gòngshān

The two-street town of GONGSHAN is around a four-hours bus ride north of Fugong. You’ll likely see plenty of Dulong people here, the smallest ethnic minority in Yunnan with a current population of just 6000. Older women have tattooed faces, supposedly for beautification, though the practice seems to have started as a way to dissuade Tibetan slave-traders from kidnapping them. There’s plenty of bustle and construction at Gongshan, though little to divert visitors longer than it takes to catch the next bus to Bingzhongluo.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: GONGSHAN

By bus Gongshan’s bus station (7am–7pm) is on the main street through town. Departures for Bingzhongluo (¥12) leave from across the street.

Destinations Bingzhongluo (90min); Fugong (4hr); Liuku (8hr).

ACCOMMODATION

Gongshan Tongbao 贡山通宝大酒店, gòngshān tōngbăo dàjiŭdiàn. tel_icon 0886 3513339. Directly across from the bus station, the Tongbao is nothing extraordinary, but besides being handily located it has decent rooms with their own shower, toilet, and 24-hour hot water. ¥100

Bingzhongluo

丙中洛, bĭngzhōngluò • ¥100

A bumpy ninety-minute ride north of Gongshan through dramatic gorge scenery brings you to BINGZHONGLUO, the village at the end of the road. It’s a scruffy little place, but the setting is stunning, and it’s a great base for hiking – there are a couple of hostels in town which can fix you up with basic maps, as well as guiding services for more taxing routes.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: BINGZHONGLUO

Bingzhongluo’s bus station is halfway down the village’s main street, although most buses don’t actually use it, preferring to crawl the main drag picking people up between runs. There are only a couple of long-distance departures each day, but hourly shuttles to Gongshan where you can pick up connections for further afield.

Destinations Fugong (5hr); Gongshan (2hr); Liuku (9hr).

INFORMATION

Trekking Treks on foot or horseback can be arranged through Aluo at the International Youth Hostel ( tel_icon 1398 8672792) or through the Guodaofang Hostel ( 1350 8868076). Both charge around ¥250 per person per day and it can be worth hiring a porter too, for another ¥100 per day. Check before you leave whether you need to bring your own food, or if it will be supplied en route.

ACCOMMODATION

Bingzhongluo International Youth Hostel 丙中洛国际青年旅舍, bĭngzhōngluò guójì qīngnián lǚshè. Follow along the main street and take the first turning off to the right, downhill, after the bus station tel_icon 0886 3581168 or 1890 8861299. Friendly place with clean rooms, hard beds, communal dining and shared bathrooms. The manager, Aluo, runs a guesthouse in Dimaluo and can provide guiding services. Dorm ¥30, room ¥80

Gudaofang Hostel 古道坊客栈, gŭdàofāng kèzhàn. On the main street, near the turning for the youth hostel tel_icon 0886 3581181 or 1350 8868076. Rooms are upstairs; those at the back have a fantastic view over the valley, and mattresses are a step up from the IYH’s efforts. There’s also a pleasant café on the ground floor and an attached ethnic gift shop. Dorm ¥40, room ¥100

Yudong 玉洞宾馆, yùdòng bīnguǎn. Opposite the bus station tel_icon 0886 3581285 or 1398 8689887. No surprises here at this Chinese-syle effort, just standard, clean, en-suite rooms with wi-fi. Again, go for one at the back to wake up to amazing vistas. ¥100

Dimaluo

迪麻洛, dímáluò

From Bingzhongluo, a popular ramble – simple enough to do alone – is to DIMALUO, a community of Catholic Tibetans. Board a bus heading south and get off at the footbridge that leads to Pengdang (捧当, pěngdāng), then cross the river and walk south until you reach a bridge and a dirt track, which you follow north to the village. The walk takes about two hours. At Dimaluo, there’s accommodation – run by Bingzhongluo’s youth hostel – and an intriguing Catholic church built in Tibetan style.

TREKKING FROM DIMALUO

From Dimaluo it’s possible to trek to neighbouring valleys and avoid having to catch the bus all the way back down to Liuku. You’ll need a guide, though: expect to pay around ¥250 per day, including very basic food and accommodation.

One popular option begins with a stiff, two-day hike across the Nushan range to Cizhong (茨中, cízhōng), a village with another stone church in the parallel Lancang River valley; the locals even make their own red wine for Communion, though Christianity has been laid on top of much older, animist beliefs. There is an irregular, fair-weather bus service south from Cizhong to Weixi (维西, wéixī; 6–10hr), from where you can catch a bus to Lijiang via Shigu.

Tengchong

腾冲, téngchōng

Some 250km west of Xiaguan, TENGCHONG was once an important administrative post, though now isolated and well off the new highway. The town’s scruffy old core is surrounded by modern main roads and apartments, though earthquakes have left Tengchong largely bereft of historic monuments or tall buildings. The old stone gate tower (文星楼, wénxīng lóu) survives at the eastern end of central Fengshan Lu; there’s a big – though rather too organized – jade market (玉泉园, yùquán yuán) at the northern edge of town; and a museum at the Anti-Japanese War Memorial Hall (滇西抗日纪念馆, diānxī kàngrì jìniànguăn), which includes copious photos and a memorial to the US-organized "Flying Tigers".

Laifeng Shan Park

来风山公园, láifēngshān gōngyuán • Free

Just west of the centre, Tengchong’s main attraction is Laifeng Shan Park, several square kilometres of hilly green woodland. Paths ascend through the forest to Laifeng Temple, a monastery-turned-museum, and a resurrected, thirteen-storey pagoda – looking much like a lighthouse ringed in multiple balconies – which will guide you to the park from Tengchong.

Heshun

和顺, héshùn • ¥80 including all buildings • bus #6 from town ¥1 • taxi ¥20

Five kilometres west of Tengchong, HESHUN is an attractive old village with several hundred stone houses packed together in a narrow maze of streets. Once a quiet retreat for overseas Chinese, this is now a fully fledged tourist attraction, including a barrage of new-built Qing-style shops and a couple of museums, though many exhibits have been moved to the Anti-Japanese War Memorial Hall in Tengchong. Head away from the busy main gate, however, and you could still spend half a day exploring Heshun with a camera.

Hot Sea

热海, rèhăi • ¥60 entry • bathing pools ¥268 • bus #2 from town ¥1 • taxi ¥15

Geological shuffles over the last fifty million years have opened up the "Hot Sea", 11km southwest of Tengchong along the Ruili road, where the scalding Liuhuang and Dagungguo pools steam and bubble away, contained by incongruously neat stone paving and ornamental borders. Situated in a wooded valley, it’s a pleasant enough spot for a stroll, but not really that much of a visual spectacle; its only really worth visiting if you’re willing to splash out on a soak.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: TENGCHONG

BY BUS

Main bus station (旅游客运站, lǚyóu kèyùnzhàn), 1km south of the centre down Rehai Lu. Kunming and Xiaguan traffic, plus buses to Liuku in the Nu Jiang valley.

Tengchong bus station (腾冲客运站, téngchōng kèyùnzhàn), east of the centre on Dongfang Lu, with frequent departures to Ruili 7am–3pm.

Destinations Kunming (10hr); Liuku (6hr); Ruili (4hr); Xiaguan (6hr).

INFORMATION

Maps Large maps of Tengchong and Heshun are available free from most hotel receptions.

GETTING AROUND

By taxi A taxi to anywhere within Tengchong’s small centre costs ¥6.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

While Tengchong itself sports dozens of ordinary hotels, Heshun is where to find guesthouses and hostels. For food, evening stalls selling charcoal-grilled chicken and fish pop up along Guanghua Lu and Dong Jie, while there is a string of decent eateries on Dongfang Lu, south of its junction with Feicui Lu.

TENGCHONG

Home Inn 如家酒店, rújiā jiŭdiàn. Dongfang Lu tel_icon 0875 5144999, web_icon homeinns.com. Unsurprising branch of this nationwide budget hotel chain, with all the usual cut-price comforts. Rooms are tiny but spotless, and the staff are helpful. ¥139

Yudu Dajiudian 玉都大酒店, yùdū dàjiŭdiàn. 15 Binhe Xiaoqu, Tengyue Lu tel_icon 0875 5138666, web_icon tcyuduhotel.com. This modern affair, near the jade market, is one of Tenchong’s plusher venues but pretty good value; rooms come with some elbow room, modern glass-walled showers and wi-fi. ¥280

Zhongda Jiudian 中大酒店, zhōngdà jiŭdiàn. 222 Dongfang Lu tel_icon 0875 5195888. A hotel in a bus station that you might actually choose to stay in. Smart, clean and extremely convenient if arriving late in the day by bus from Ruili. ¥220

HESHUN

Heshun Youth Hostel 和顺青年旅舍, héshùn qīngnián lǚshè. A good 1km walk from the main gate. tel_icon 0875 5158398. Nice-looking courtyard compound with wooden buildings, though facilities are a bit basic – beds are hard and there’s no bar or restaurant – but it does have a washing machine. Dorms ¥30, rooms ¥128

Zongbingfu Kezhan 总兵府客栈, zŏngbīngfŭ kèzhàn. tel_icon 0875 5150288. Smart place with some genuine character, whose period rooms – all with modern furnishings – are housed in an old courtyard building. Call ahead and get someone to meet you at the main gate and guide you there. ¥480

RUILI TO BURMA

At present it is not possible for foreigners to cross on foot from Ruili into Burma without having previously arranged to be met by an official tour guide at the border. You’ll need to have set everything up – including visas – before leaving Kunming.

The jade and gem market

瑞丽珠宝街, ruìlì zhūbăo jiē

By day Ruili’s broad pavements and drab construction pin it down as a typical Chinese town; fortunately, its markets and people are anything but typical. The jade and gem market, in the north of town along Bianmao Jie, has a "Disneyland Burma" look, but there is serious business being done. Dealers come to stock up on ruinously expensive wafers of deep green jade; unless you really know your stuff it’s safer just to watch the huddles of pensive merchants, or negotiate souvenir prices for coloured pieces of sparkling Russian glass "jewels", chunks of polished substandard jade and heavy brass rings.

Huafeng market

华丰市场, huáfēng shìchăng

Dai and Jingpo haunt Ruili’s huge Huafeng market on Jiegang Lu. Burmese stallholders here can sell you everything from haberdashery and precious stones to birds, cigars, Mandalay rum and Western-brand toiletries; Dai girls powder their faces with yellow talc, young men insistently offer jewellery from their shoulder bags. It really comes alive at night when the stalls in a southeastern covered area start serving spicy Burmese barbecue and chilled Myanmar beer.

Farmers’ market

综合农贺市场, zōnghé nónghè shìchăng

For a rough-and-ready shopping experience, try the morning farmers’ market at the western end of Maohan Lu, where you’ll find not only meat (the live animal section, including dogs for consumption, is not for the faint-hearted), fish, fruit and vegetables, but also locally made wood and cane furniture as well as shoes, clothes and even roadside jewellers selling "gold" rings and bracelets. If you manage to keep your appetite, this is also a good place to pick up a bowl of spicy noodles from stalls in the heart of the market’s covered area.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: RUILI

By plane The nearest airport is 100km northeast at Mangshi (芒市, mángshì), also known as Luxi (潞西, lùxī). Getting to and from Mangshi’s airport costs ¥35 in a minibus or ¥50 per person in a taxi. East Yunnan Airlines in Ruili, at 15 Renmin Lu ( tel_icon 0692 4155700 or 4111111), usually offers discounted fares.

Destinations from Mangshi Guangzhou (1 daily; 4hr 40min); Kunming (11 daily; 50min).

By bus The long-distance station on Nanmao Jie has at least daily services to everywhere along the highway between here and Kunming; there’s also at least one departure daily for the lengthy ride down to Jinghong in Xishuangbanna.

By minibus Minibuses to Mangshi depart from the minibus station opposite the north end of Jiegang Lu, while vans to closer sights go from just outside the bus station on Nanmao Jie – keep repeating the name of your destination and you’ll be shepherded to the correct vehicle.

Destinations Jinghong (30hr); Kunming (13hr); Mangshi (2hr); Tengchong (4hr); Xiaguan (6hr).

GETTING AROUND

Ruili’s centre is small enough to get around on foot.

By bike Bikes can be rented from the Merida bicycle shop (美利达, měilìdá) on Biancheng Lu for ¥50 per day.

ACCOMMODATION

Ruili is littered with basic hotels and there’s a good choice of rooms right in the town centre, though there are no real budget bargains. You need air conditioning in summer.

Home Inn 如家酒店, rújiā jiŭdiàn. 11 Lecheng Jie tel_icon 0692 3031333, web_icon homeinns.com. The newcomer keeping the others honest. Basic and clean, and looks like all the others in the chain. Stay here if you want to meet middle-class students from Beijing. ¥180

Jingcheng 景成大酒店, jĭngchéng dàjiŭdiàn. Maohan Lu tel_icon 0692 4159666, web_icon jcdjd.cn. About the only place with real pretentions towards luxury in town, this starred pile has decent rooms, a swimming pool, tennis court and gym, all enclosed inside Ruili’s tallest building. ¥500

Pearl Business Hotel 明珠商务酒店, míngzhū shāngwù jiŭdiàn. Biancheng Lu tel_icon 0692 6636222. Easy to find thanks to neon lights outside and a video games arcade on the ground floor. The lobby of this new, and currently smart, hotel is on the third floor. ¥150

Tianli 天丽宾馆, tiānlì bīnguăn. Biancheng Lu tel_icon 0692 4155000. Yet another of Ruili’s simple, clean options whose spacious tiled doubles with bathrooms and a/c are good value, if absolutely ordinary and functional. ¥120

Yingbin Hotel 迎宾楼大酒店, yíngbīnlóu dàjiŭdiàn. Behind the bus station at 83 Biancheng Lu tel_icon 0692 4129969. Recently renovated, smart rooms all come with an ADSL internet connection, the more expensive ones with a computer as well. ¥148

Zhong Rui 钟瑞宾馆, zhōngruì bīnguăn. 1 Nanmao Jie tel_icon 0692 4100556. Old-style business hotel that’s starting to look rather grubby. Rooms come with internet connections and ash trays in the bathroom. It is cheap, though. ¥100

EATING AND DRINKING

Food is all-important to domestic tourists, and Ruili certainly doesn’t fall down here. As well as clear influence from Burma, the town’s dining also features flavours from further afield including Thailand, as well as China’s own cuisine brought by internal migrants. For conventional Chinese food, head to the string of restaurants on Ruijiang Lu beside the long-distance bus station, or for a rustic early lunch try noodles in the farmers’ market.

Bobo 步步冷饮店, bùbù lěngyǐndiàn. Xinan Lu. Sited on a covered rooftop, this relaxed café boasts a vast array of drinks and Southeast Asian-style desserts (coconut milk, sago and mango), and a much shorter food list. The menu is in English, though little is spoken, and they also have wi-fi. Drinks ¥5–10, food ¥15–25. Daily 9am–9pm.

Jojo’s Cold Drinks and Myanmar Restaurant Huafeng Market. One of the big treats in Ruili is heading to Huafeng after sundown, especially at weekends, to gorge on spicy barbecued skewers. The covered area at the bottom end has seating for several hundred diners; look for the green sign for Jojo’s. The food is laid out on show so ordering is as simple as pointing, and you can wash it down with Myanmar beer or any number of fresh juices. ¥15–40. Daily 8pm–late.

Krou Thai Restaurant 可傣饭店, kědăi fàndiàn. Biancheng Lu. Not the only Thai restaurant in town, but probably the best, with a selection of spicy soups, laab, and rice dishes, and they’ll do vegetarian versions to order. The picture menu has some English translations. Mains ¥20–40. Daily 11am–10pm.

THE DAI

Although the Dai once spread as far north as the Yangzi Valley, they were driven south by the Mongol expansion in the thirteenth century. These days, they are found not only in southwest China but also throughout Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. Reputed as skilful farmers, they have always flourished in fertile river basins, growing rice, sugar cane, rubber trees and bananas. Accordingly, Dai cuisine is characterized by sweet flavours not found elsewhere in China – you’ll encounter rice steamed inside bamboo or pineapple, for instance. Oddities such as fried moss and ant eggs appear on special occasions.

Dai women wear a sarong or long skirt, a bodice and a jacket, and keep their hair tied up and fixed with a comb, and often decorated with flowers. Married women wear silver wristbands. Dai men sport plenty of tattoos, usually across their chests and circling their wrists. Their homes are raised on stilts, with the livestock kept underneath. Some of the most distinctive and ornate Dai architecture is well decoration, as the Dai regard water as sacred. They’re Buddhists, but like their compatriots in Southeast Asia follow the Thervada, or Lesser Wheel, school, rather than the Mahayana school favoured throughout the rest of China. When visiting Dai temples, it’s important to remove your shoes, as the Dai consider feet to be the most unclean part of the body.

Jinghong

景洪, jĭnghóng

JINGHONG, Xishuangbanna’s fast-developing capital, sits on the southwestern bank of the Lancang River (澜沧江, láncāng jiāng), which later winds downstream through Laos and Thailand as the Mekong. Ever since the Dai warlord Bazhen drove the Bulang and Hani tribes off these fertile central flatlands, and founded the independent kingdom of Cheli in 1180, Jinghong has been maintained as an administrative centre. There was a moment of excitement in the late nineteenth century when a battalion of British soldiers marched in during a foray from Burma, but they soon decided that Jinghong was too remote to be worth defending.

Today the towering gaudiness of Jinghong’s newly acquired high-rises and strip malls, bedecked with faux-ethnic fibreglass mouldings – not to mention parties of domestic tourists rushing about – is a stark contrast to the laidback, easy style of Dai women in their bright sarongs and straw hats who meander the gently shimmering, palm-lined streets. For the most part, the city is an undemanding place to spend a couple of days, and once you’ve tried the local food and poked around the temples, there’s plenty of transport into the rest of Xishuangbanna.

NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES

Dai New Year celebrations, once set by the unpredictable Dai calendar, are now held April 13–16 annually. The first day sees a dragon-boat race on the river, held in honour of a good-natured dragon spirit who helped a local hero outwit an evil king. On the second day everybody in Jinghong gets a good soaking as water-splashing hysteria grips the town, and basinfuls are enthusiastically hurled over friends and strangers alike to wash away bad luck. Manting Park also hosts cockfighting and dancing all day. The finale includes Diu Bao (Throwing Pouches) games, where prospective couples fling small, triangular beanbags at each other to indicate their affection, and there’s a mammoth firework display, when hundreds of bamboo tubes stuffed with gunpowder and good-luck gifts are rocketed out over the river. Nightly carousing and dancing – during which generous quantities of lajiu, the local firewater, are consumed – take place in the parks and public spaces. Look out for the Peacock dance, a fluid performance said to imitate the movements of the bird, bringer of good fortune in Dai lore, and the Elephant-drum dance, named after the instrument used to thump out the rhythm.

The streets

The pick of Jinghong’s many markets is Zhuanghong Lu’s 500m of Burmese jade and jewellery shops, plus a few stalls selling ethnic-style textiles and trinkets. There are also big farmers’ markets (农贺市场, nónghè shìchăng), packed with Dai women picking over piles of tropical fruit and veg, opposite the bus station on Mengle Dadao, west of the centre on Mengla Lu, and west of Manting Park on Menghai Lu.

Riverside Binjiang Lu is a great place to stroll in the evening, when the bars, snack stalls and night market lining the river fire up and where you can watch locals flying kites and bringing their cars, trucks and buses to the water’s edge to give them a good clean.

Tropical Flower and Plants Garden

热带花卉园, rèdài huāhuìyuán • Daily 7.30am–6.30pm • ¥40

Jinghong’s Tropical Flower and Plants Garden, 500m west of the centre down Xuanwei Dadao, holds palms, fruit trees and brightly flowering shrubs and vines, nicely arranged around a lake. The different sections – aerial flower subgarden, bougainvillea subgarden, and so on – host afternoon performances of Dai dancing for tour groups.

Medicinal Botanic Gardens

药用植物园, yàoyòng zhíwùyuán • Daily 9am–6pm • ¥104

Across the road from the Tropical Flower garden, the Medicinal Botanic Gardens consist of quiet groves scattered among the shaded gloom of closely planted rainforest trees. They lead to a large Traditional Medicine Clinic, whose friendly staff may invite you in for a cup of tea and impromptu qi gong demonstration.

Manting

曼听, màntīng

A kilometre southeast of the centre via Manting Lu, Manting was once a separate village, now absorbed into Jinghong’s lazy spread. Near the end of the road, Wat Manting (曼听佛寺, màntīng fósì) is Jinghong’s main Buddhist monastery and the largest in all Xishuangbanna. Check out the very Dai gold trim, the guardian creatures at the gates, the glossy jinghua murals adorning the temple walls and a giant ceremonial canoe in the monastery grounds. Traditionally, all Dai boys spend three years at temples like Wat Manting getting a grounding in Buddhism and learning to read and write.

Manting Park

曼听公园, màntīng gōngyuán • Daily 7.30am–5.30pm • ¥40 • evening shows 7.40–9.40pm, ¥260–480

Next to Wat Manting is the more secular Manting Park, where the royal slaves were formerly kept. A giant gold statue of former premier Zhou Enlai welcomes visitors, tour groups are treated to water-splashing displays every afternoon, and there’s also a large pen bursting with peacocks, which you can feed. Corners of the park are very pleasant, with paths crossing over one of the Lancang River’s tiny tributaries to full-scale copies of Jingzhen’s Bajiao Ting and a portly, Dai-style pagoda. The park hosts nightly shows featuring Dai dancing and mass water-splashings.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: JINGHONG

Remember to confirm visa requirements for Laos and Thailand before booking transport – the nearest consulates are in Kunming .

BY PLANE

Daily flights link Jinghong with Kunming, Xiaguan/Dali, Lijiang and a few cities elsewhere in China. There’s also talk of Lao Air starting a service between Jinghong and Luang Prabang, while China Eastern fly once a week to Bangkok in Thailand. Buy onward tickets for all flights from agents around town who chalk up daily deals on blackboards outside.

Xishuangbanna airport (西双版纳嘎洒机场, xishuāngbǎnnà gāsǎ jīchǎng) lies about 10km southwest of the city; catch bus #1 to its terminus at the western extension of Mengla Lu, or it’s a 10min, ¥25 taxi ride into the centre along an expressway.

Destinations Beijing (1 daily; 5hr); Chengdu (1 daily; 2hr); Dali (2 daily; 50min); Kunming (30 daily; 55min); Lijiang (5 daily; 1hr); Shanghai (1 daily; 5hr).

BY BUS

Note that you can reach Jinghong direct from Kunming’s south bus station, Xiaguan, Tengchong, Ruili and Luang Namtha in Laos (the latter costing US$12; 8hr). Coming from Yuanyang in southeast Yunnan, aim first for Jianshui and change buses there. In Jinghong, buy bus tickets at the relevant stations – and watch out for pickpockets.

Banna bus station (版纳客运服务站, bănnà kèyùn fúwùzhàn), right in the centre on Minzu Lu, is where to find most traffic heading to outlying villages around Xishuangbanna.

Jinghong bus station (景洪客运站, jĭnghóng kèyùn zhàn), on the northern arm of Mengle Dadao, handles almost all long-distance traffic, including those from Luang Namtha in Laos.

South bus station (客运南站, kèyùn nánzhàn), a kilometre south of town, deals in traffic around Xishuangbanna, and a few Kunming services; catch bus #3 or a cab to the centre.

Destinations Damenglong (1hr 30min); Jianshui (12hr); Kunming (10hr); Menghai (1hr); Menghun (1hr 20min); Menglun (2hr); Ruili (30hr); Xiaguan (16hr).

BY FERRY

Mekong ferries used to operate between Jinghong and Chiang Saen in northern Thailand, but were suspended in 2011 after the drug-related killing of 13 Chinese sailors.

Jinghong ferry port (景洪港, jĭnghóng kèyùnzhàn) is across the river via the main suspension bridge – bus #5 from the nearby main road will get you into the town centre. The port ticket office (daily 8am–5.30pm, tel_icon 0691 2211899) is where to check on the latest situation regarding boats to Thailand (¥800).

Destinations Chiang Saen, Thailand (2 weekly; 7hr).

INFORMATION

Cruises Nightly pleasure cruises, taking in the lights of Jinghong, depart on two-hour trips from the ferry port from 7pm (¥200). Most boats feature their own entertainment in the form of cabaret floor shows. Tickets are available from most travel agencies in town, or from the ferry port.

Trekking agents Guided treks offered by Jinghong’s tourist cafés explore remoter villages, waterfalls and forest, with the chance of encountering wildlife. Most trips include an overnight stay with a local host family and cost around ¥300 per person per day, though prices fall as the number of people in your group goes up. The most experienced guide is Sarah at the Forest Café ( tel_icon 0691 8985122, web_icon forest-cafe.org), though Summer at Mei Mei’s Café ( 0691 2161221, email_icon zhanyanlan@hotmail.com) is also a mine of information and will happily provide a map and instructions for you to head off on your own. A recommended independent tour guide is Zhao Yao (English name "Joe"; tel_icon 1376 9146987).

GETTING AROUND

By bus City buses operate 7am–7pm (¥1), though nowhere in Jinghong is more than a 20min walk away. Bus #5 runs east–west across the town centre and #4 north–south.

By bicycle Many Trees hostel rents bike at ¥30 per day for exploring town and Xishuangbanna’s lowlands – though country roads are steep, twisting and long, and heavy traffic along the narrow roads, particularly south along the river toward Menghan, can make this a dangerous option.

By taxi Cabs charge ¥7 for anywhere in town.

ACCOMMODATION

All but the smallest lodgings have restaurants, and most offer either wi-fi, wired internet connection, or even computers in the room for an extra ¥20 or so. You’ll need air conditioning in summer.

Crown Hotel 皇冠大酒店, huángguān dàjiǔdiàn. 70 Mengle Dadao tel_icon 0691 2199888, web_icon newtgh.com. One of a number of upmarket places grouped around the Mengle/Mengla roads intersection, all aimed at wealthy Chinese tourists. Unmemorable, but clean and comfortable, and you can get big discounts on older rooms at the back. The same company also operates a genuine five-star hotel south of town towards the airport. ¥248

Hongyun 鸿云酒店, hóngyún jiŭdiàn. 12 Galan Nan Lu tel_icon 0691 2165777. Older place, now showing its age, with carpeted, quite spacious en suites with a/c and squat toilets. Upper rooms just about have views of the river. ¥160

Many Trees Youth Hostel 曼丽翠国际青年旅舍, mànlìcuì guójì qīngnián lǚshè. 5 Manyun Xiang, down a lane opposite the gymnasium on Galan Lu tel_icon 0691 2126210. Veteran, basic and haphazardly brightened up Chinese hostel, but a/c rooms are a fair deal for the money, and they’ve got a rooftop washing machine. Dorm ¥40, room ¥108

Popular 假日时尚酒店, jiàrì shíshàng jiŭdiàn. 104 Galan Zhong Lu tel_icon 0691 2139001. A decent, newish place with clean and tidy en-suite doubles with a/c; the only drawback is that there’s no lift. ¥120

Qixiang Binguan 气象宾馆, qìxiàng bīnguăn. 10 Galan Nan Lu tel_icon 0691 2130188. Run by the Weather Bureau, this place’s small tiled rooms with a/c are a budget bargain, though there are only squat toilets throughout. ¥80

Xishuangbanna Thai City 西双版纳傣都大酒店, xīshāngbănnà dăidū dàjiŭdiàn. 26 Minghang Lu tel_icon 0691 2137888. This three-star establishment was once as upmarket as Jinghong got, and it’s still of a decent standard – and good value – full of clean, furnished rooms. ¥240

EATING AND DRINKING

Jinghong is the best place in Xishuangbanna to try authentic Dai cooking, either in restaurants or on the street. Formal menus often feature meat or fish courses flavoured with sour bamboo shoots or lemongrass, while oddities include fried moss, and pineapple rice for dessert – the fruit is hollowed out, stuffed with pineapple chunks and sweet glutinous rice, and steamed. Tourist cafés are comparatively expensive places to eat, but aside from their Western/Dai menus they also hand out local information, rent bikes and arrange tours. In the evening the night market along the river, south of the suspension bridge, is packed with open-air barbecues.

Forest Café. 23 Mengla Lu tel_icon 0691 8985122, web_icon forest-cafe.org. Owner-manager Sarah has an encyclopedic knowledge of local treks, and both she and her brother Stone can knock out a fantastic cup of Yunnan coffee or pu’er tea (¥15), but there’s precious little in the way of food available. Daily 9am–7pm.

Mama Korean 韩国小吃店, hánguó xiăochīdiàn. 13 Menghun Lu tel_icon 1597 4955043. A little way out of the town centre, this place does excellent-value soups, rice bowls and sushi rolls – try the kimchi fried rice for ¥20, which comes with a starter of soup and pickles. Daily 11am–9pm.

Mandalay 耶待纳美餐厅, yēdàinàměi cāntīng. Above the Dico’s on Renmin Square tel_icon 0691 2141640. A vast canteen serving up cheap and plentiful Dai and Chinese dishes, and they also have a decent stab at pizza. It’s best to stick to the Dai side of the menu though – the fish with lemongrass is fantastic. Expect to pay around ¥25 per person. Daily 11am–10pm.

author_pick Mei Mei’s 美美咖非, měiměi kāfēi. 107 Menglong Lu tel_icon 0691 2161221, web_icon meimei-cafe.com. One of a clutch of similar cafés along this newish development serving great breakfast pancakes and other Western staples from ¥25, as well as a smattering of Chinese and Yunnanese specialities. It’s also a good place to pick up info on local treks, as is their website. Daily 9am–10pm.

Nationality Snack Street 民族食尚街, mínzú shíshàng jiē. Binjiang Lu. A line of large, wooden restaurant-bars with loud – sometimes live – music on the promenade above the riverside, decked out in coloured fairy lights. It’s a nice idea, but the establishments are all much the same and a drink costs at least ¥30. Daily from 5pm.

Thai Food 泰国风味, tàiguó fēngwèi. 193 Manting Lu, opposite Meimei’s Café tel_icon 0691 2161758. Terrific food, great value and always busy, this outdoor eatery is a Jinghong institution. It’s not the fanciest place in town, but it is one of the best, with a massive choice of spicy Thai dishes and low prices – mains from ¥15. Daily 11am–9pm.

ENTERTAINMENT

Naxi Arts Theatre 蒙巴拉纳西艺术宫, měngbālā nàxī yìshùgōng. Galan Zhong Lu. Hugely popular with Chinese tour groups, during the high season they put on two shows a night here, but if you come early they usually do a half-hour warm-up in the square outside the theatre from about 7pm which you can watch for free. Tickets for the full performance cost ¥190.

SHOPPING

Markets For fresh fruit, including mangoes, coconuts, bananas, mangosteens and durian, head to either of the big produce markets on Mengle Dadao or Mengla Lu.

Supermarket Jinghong’s best supermarket is the Daxin Mart, underneath Renmin Square on Mengle Dadao; aside from daily necessities, you can buy cheese and small packets of Yunnan ham.

ACCOMMODATION: MENGHAN

Huaxin Binguan 华鑫宾馆, huáxīn bīnguăn. 179 Xiandao, Menghan tel_icon 0691 2411258. Up on the north side of the main road, this basic but clean place is a decent deal, and there’s a tasty local restaurant directly across the street. ¥60

Xishuangbanna Sha La Hotel 沙拉酒店, shālā jiǔdiàn. 68 Xiandao, Menghan tel_icon 0691 2494168. Ugly, multi-storey three-star affair up the road from the Huaxin. En-suite twins and doubles are clean, comfortable and come equipped with the standard dark-wood furnishings, but lack any semblance of character. ¥300

Menglun

勐仑, měnglún

MENGLUN, about 40km east of Menghan, comprises a dusty grid of streets overlooking the broad flow of the Luosuo River. Take the side street downhill through the all-day market, and within a couple of minutes you’ll find yourself by a large pedestrian suspension bridge crossing to Menglun’s superb Tropical Botanic Gardens (热带植物园, rèdài zhíwùyuán; daily 7.30am–6.30pm; ¥80). These were carved out of the jungle in 1959, and are now divided up into shaded palm and bamboo groves, clusters of giant fig trees, lily ponds, vines and shrubs. There are plenty of birds and butterflies flitting about too – in all, an enjoyable mix of parkland and forgotten, overgrown corners. Look for Chinese visitors serenading the undistinguished-looking "Singing Plant", which is supposed to nod in time to music.

INTO LAOS

Beyond Menglun, the main road runs southeast for 130km, via Mengla (勐腊, měnglà), to the Lao border, just beyond Mo Han township (边贸站, biānmào zhàn). Assuming you’ve already obtained a visa from the Laotian consulate in Kunming, the border crossing itself should be uncomplicated, though note that it closes mid-afternoon. On the far side lies the Laotian village of Ban Boten, where yuan are accepted, but there’s nowhere to stay or change currency for Laotian kip. The nearest banks and beds are a ¥10 truck ride away at the town of Luang Namtha, from where you can hitch out to the early-morning markets at Muong Sing to see local people in full tribal regalia. There’s transport from Luang Namtha to Nung Kie via Muong Tai, and thence by boat down the Mekong to Luang Phabang (though you can also come the whole way from the border by road).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: MENGLUN

By bus There’s no bus station at Menglun, so vehicles pull up wherever convenient on the main road, usually among the restaurants and stores on the eastern side of town. To catch onward transport, head to the main road and flag down passing traffic.

ACCOMMODATION

Chunlin Binguan 春林宾馆, chūnlín bīnguăn. Right by the main gate of the tropical gardens tel_icon 0691 8715681. Basic, clean and tidy en suites with a/c at a budget price. ¥80

Tropical Plant Gardens Hotel 热带植物园宾馆, rèdài zhíwùyuán bīnguǎn. tel_icon 0691 8716852. Within the park itself, this government-run guesthouse has a tremendous location but, partly because of this, suffers from both damp and trespassing insects. If these don’t scare you off, it’s a fair place to stay and has a pool, though you’ll want to scoop the bugs out before taking the plunge. ¥250

Western Xishuangbanna

Western Xishuangbanna, which butts up against the (closed) Burmese border, is a little bit less explored than the east – many treks out of Jinghong’s cafés come here – and has a couple of good markets. Most traffic out this way departs from Jinghong’s Banna bus station, though Damenglong is reached from the South bus station.

Damenglong

大勐龙, dàměnglóng

DAMENGLONG – also known as Menglong – is a scruffy, busy crossroads town 55km southwest of Jinghong, with a big, all-day Sunday market. The disappointingly shoddy Black Pagoda (黑塔, 黑塔, hēită) is just south of the central crossroads and shouldn’t be confused with the North Pagoda (北塔, běi tă; ¥5), 2km north of town above the village of Manfeilong (曼飞龙, mànfēilóng). A long flight of stairs ascends to the North Pagoda, which is adorned with fragments of evil-repelling mirrors and silver paint, and is worshipped for the two footprints left by Sakyamuni in an alcove at the base. It is also known as the Bamboo Shoot Pagoda (笋塔, sŭntă; ¥10), after its nine-spired design, which resembles an emerging cluster of bamboo tips.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING: DAMENGLONG

Eating options are street stalls or the Sichuanese place east from the crossroads, heading towards the highway.

Jintai Binguan 金泰宾馆, jīntài bīnguăn. tel_icon 0691 2740334. There’s not a huge amount of choice in Damenglong, but this friendly and clean-ish, eggshell-blue building down a backstreet towards the market is one of the better choices. ¥60

Menghai

勐海, měnghăi

Western Xishuangbanna’s principal town, MENGHAI is centrally placed on the highland plains 55km from Jinghong. A relatively organized assemblage of 1km-long high street and back lanes, the town is little more than a stop on the way towards outlying Dai and Hani settlements, but has an important history. Menghai was once a Hani (Aini) settlement until, as elsewhere, the Hani were defeated in battle by the Dai and withdrew into the surrounding hills. They remain there today as Xishuangbanna’s second-largest ethnic group and long-time cultivators of pu’er tea, the local red, slightly musty brew that’s esteemed from Hong Kong to Tibet for its fat-reducing and generally invigorating properties.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: MENGHAI

By bus Menghai’s bus station – with buses to Jinghong and other centres, and minibuses to outlying villages – is at the eastern end of town.

The Mengzhe road

Minibuses heading west from Menghai can drop you 20km along at the bizarre Jingzhen Octagonal Pavilion (景真八角亭, jĭngzhēn bājiăo tíng; ¥20), built in the eighteenth century to quell an angry horde of wasps. This, and Manlei Buddhist Temple (曼磊佛寺, mànlěi fósì; ¥20), a further 10km on past MENGZHE (勐遮, měngzhē), are inferior copies of older buildings, but have important collections of Buddhist manuscripts written on fan-palm fibre.

Xiding

西定, xīdìng

From Mengzhe, it’s worth heading 15km southwest to the Hani village of XIDING, whose busy Thursday market is one of the best in the region. You’ll need to get here on Wednesday, and sleep over in one of Xiding’s rudimentary guesthouses, as the market kicks off at dawn.

Menghun

勐混, měnghún

Some 25km southwest of Menghai is MENGHUN, whose excellent Sunday market starts at daybreak and continues until noon. Akha women arrive under their elaborate silver-beaded headdresses, Bulang wear heavy earrings and oversized black turbans, and remote hill-dwellers come in plain dress, carrying ancient rifles. Most common of all are the Dai, who buy rolls of home-made paper and sarongs. Take a look around Menghun itself, too, as there’s a dilapidated nineteenth-century monastery with a pavilion built in the style of Jingzhen’s octagonal effort, and a pagoda hidden in the bamboo groves on the hills behind town.

ACCOMMODATION: MENGHUN

Dai Hotel 傣家宾馆, dăijiā bīnguăn. On the main road, just north of the village centre and signed in English from near the post office. Though very basic, this clean establishment is almost certainly your best bet for a night in Menghun, though there are several other options to inspect nearby. ¥60

Daluo and the Burmese border

At the end of the road 50km west of Menghun, and served by two daily buses from Menghai, DALUO (打落镇, dăluò zhèn) is set just in from the Burmese border. Here there’s a multi-trunked, giant fig tree whose descending mass of aerial roots forms a "forest", and a daily border trade market, timed for the arrival of Chinese package tours between 11am and 1pm. Chinese nationals can also get a two-hour visa for Burma, ostensibly to shop for jade; in fact, many are really going over to catch transvestite stage shows held for their benefit.

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Yunnan

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Brief history

The Dali and Nanzhao kingdoms

The Muslim Uprising

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YUNNANESE FOOD

Kunming

Brief history

Bird and Flower Market

Yunnan Provincial Museum

Cuihu Park

Yuantong Temple

Kunming City Museum

Two pagodas

LEAVING CHINA

KUNMING’S CONSULATES

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: KUNMING

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GETTING AROUND

INFORMATION

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Jin Dian Park

Qiongzhu Temple

The Western Hills

In the hills

The Stone Forest

Southeastern Yunnan

Jianshui

The old town

Zhu Family Gardens

Confucian Academy

Yanzi Dong

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The Hong He Valley

Yuanyang

Around Xinjie

Rice terraces

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: HONG HE VALLEY

BY BUS

INFORMATION

GETTING AROUND

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XINJIE

DUOYISHU

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Hekou and the border

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: HEKOU

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Northwestern Yunnan

ROUTES THROUGH THE NORTHWEST

Xiaguan

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: XIAGUAN

BY PLANE

BY TRAIN

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GETTING AROUND

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Jizu Shan

On the mountain

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: JIZU SHAN

ACCOMMODATION

Weishan

The old town

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: WEISHAN

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Dali

DALI’S FESTIVALS

Brief history