Chapter Six 
ITALIAN LESSONS
The grocery store has an entire aisle devoted to jarred, ready-made tomato sauces, but none of them are as good as the Simple Tomato Sauce we make in one of our Italian classes. Maybe it’s because we use great tomatoes. This is one lesson we can take from Italian cuisine: fresh, perfect products, whether they come from the garden, the ocean, or the ranch, need very little manipulation to make them delicious. A little salt and a little fire is often the extent of a recipe. This is, of course, a very important lesson. Eat fresh, ripe food that never travels very far between the source and the table. It is a concept that we here in the United States have been slowly coming to understand.
But perhaps there’s another reason our tomato sauce is better than any you can buy: we make it for those we care about. And this is another very important lesson that we can glean from the Italian kitchen. Cooking is an expression of love in all kitchens throughout the world, but no place has made it as integral or obvious as in Italy. When we cook for those we love, we are offering them part of ourselves, and that makes everything taste even better.
◁ BAGNA CAUDA
This traditional hot garlic, anchovy, and olive oil dip hails from the Piedmont region of Italy. If you are there in the fall and make bagna cauda, you would probably shave some truffle over top, and once the vegetables are gone, you may scramble some eggs into the remaining sauce and shave some truffles on top of that! Yum. We approximate that luxurious experience with a drop of truffle oil and add cream for a smoother mouthfeel and easier emulsion. Use any combination you like of the suggested vegetables; grilled bread is another nice addition.
SERVES 6 to 8 as an hors d’oeuvre
2 to 3 pounds assorted vegetables for dipping, such as boiled small potatoes, raw fennel wedges or cauliflower florets, small radishes, red bell pepper strips, boiled peeled sunchokes or artichoke bottoms cut into wedges, small peeled carrots, boiled green beans, braised cardoons, or blanched brussels sprouts
2 large garlic cloves
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 anchovy fillets
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
Freshly ground black pepper
A few drops of white truffle oil, optional
Set up a small heavy pot over a candle burner, such as that from a fondue pot heater, and arrange the vegetables on a platter.
Mince and mash the garlic to a paste with 1/4 teaspoon salt using the side of a chef’s knife.
Combine the olive oil and anchovies in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring and mashing the anchovies with a fork until they have disintegrated, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant but not colored, about 30 seconds. Add the cream and simmer the mixture until reduced by half and thick enough to coat the vegetables. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and truffle oil, if you like.
Transfer the bagna cauda to the small pot and light the candle to keep it warm. Serve the vegetables, with toothpicks for the vegetables that are hard to hold, with the bagna cauda.
PARMESAN RISOTTO
Think of this recipe as a jumping-off point from which you can experiment at will. Add asparagus and ramps in the spring, fresh corn and tomatoes in the summer, and roasted mushrooms in the fall. But no matter what you do, save any leftovers to make Cheese-Stuffed Arancini. Constant stirring is a must here in order to achieve the proper creaminess. By doing so, you rub the grains of rice against each other, which knocks off their starch and thickens the chicken stock.
SERVES 6 as a first course with enough leftovers to make Cheese-Stuffed Arancini; if you’re not looking to save some for arancini, you can halve this recipe.
2 to 3 quarts Chicken Stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup finely chopped shallots
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 cups arborio or Vialone Nano rice
1 cup dry white wine
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, or to taste
Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and keep the stock hot.
Melt the butter in a medium heavy pot over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes.
Add the rice and cook, stirring, until well coated with the butter, about 2 minutes. Add the wine, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until most of the liquid has been absorbed.
Add 1/2 cup chicken stock to the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until most of the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding the stock 1/2 cup at a time and stirring until it is absorbed and the rice is al dente, about 20 minutes. The risotto should maintain a creamy, not dry, consistency, and the added liquid should maintain a simmer.
When the rice is ready, remove the risotto from the heat, stir in the cheese to taste, then season with salt and pepper. Stir in more stock to loosen if necessary. Serve immediately.
◁ CHEESE-STUFFED ARANCINI WITH SIMPLE TOMATO SAUCE
Think of these as a slightly Americanized version of the handheld arancini commonly sold by street vendors in Italy. The first trick here is using a mix of breadcrumbs: fine ones to cling tightly to the surface of the rice and panko for extra crunch. The second trick is the cheese—use the best quality Taleggio you can find and don’t skimp. It melts as the arancini fry and oozes out when you cut into it.
SERVES 8
FOR THE SAUCE
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 small onion, chopped
4 cups puréed ripe tomatoes or Ian’s All-Purpose Tomato Purée (shown here)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE ARANCINI
2 large eggs
1 cup plain fine dried bread crumbs
1 cup panko bread crumbs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups cooked Parmesan Risotto (shown here), cooled
8 ounces Taleggio cheese, any rind removed and cut into 8 chunks
4 to 6 cups vegetable oil
Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
To make the sauce, heat the oil in a medium heavy saucepan over medium heat until hot. Add the garlic and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 6 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened, about 15 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste.
To make the arancini, lightly beat the eggs in a shallow bowl. Stir together the two types of bread crumbs and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper in another shallow bowl. Wet your hands with water, which will help keep the rice from sticking to them. Measure 1/2 cup of the risotto then place it in your hand. Press a piece of Taleggio into the center of the rice, then form the rice into a ball around the cheese, completely encasing it. Roll the arancini in the egg mixture to coat, then dredge in the bread crumb mixture; set it aside on a plate. Repeat with the remaining risotto and cheese.
Heat about 2 inches oil in a large heavy pot or deep skillet over medium heat until hot enough to bubble when a pinch of bread crumbs is added. Fry the arancini in the oil in batches, turning occasionally for even cooking, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer the cooked arancini to a paper towel–lined platter.
Serve the arancini in shallow bowls with the sauce and some grated cheese.
◁ PIZZA DOUGH
This dough is our standard for all kinds of pizzas and flatbreads. Using bread flour makes for a slightly chewier and crispier crust, but all-purpose flour produces a perfectly delicious pizza crust without the need for any special ingredients.
MAKES enough for 1 large pizza (17 x 12 inches or 20-inch round)
3 cups bread or all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 ounce fresh yeast, crumbled, or 1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 1/4 cups warm water
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Combine the flour, salt, yeast, water, and oil to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix at medium speed until it comes together and forms a ball around the paddle, about 6 minutes. (If you prefer the tactile sensation of kneading this wet dough by hand, see the technique for working the Basic Bread Dough.) Scrape the dough back into the bowl and cover the bowl with a kitchen towel. Let the dough rise at warm room temperature until it is doubled in volume, about 1 hour. You can make the dough up to 3 days ahead. Keep it covered and refrigerated, punching the dough down when it doubles in volume. The dough will develop more of a pleasant sour flavor the longer you keep it.
◁ CHEDDAR AND CARAMELIZED ONION PIZZA
Attention mozzarella: step away from the pizza! We find ourselves preferring Cheddar to any other cheese on this rustic, Americanized flatbread. It brings a sharp balance to the sweetness of the caramelized onions.
SERVES 6 TO 8
3 pounds onions, halved and thinly sliced crosswise
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe Pizza Dough (on the adjacent page)
3 tablespoons Nasturtium Capers or small capers in brine, drained
1 1/2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
Combine the onions, butter, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a large heavy skillet over medium heat and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, 10 to 15 minutes. Uncover the skillet and continue to cook the onions, stirring occasionally and reducing the heat as needed, until they are deep golden and caramelized, about 30 minutes more. Let the onions cool to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 475°F.
Transfer the dough to a well-oiled baking sheet and turn it over in the oil to coat it. Stretch the dough to the edges, letting the dough rest for a minute if it is pulling back and refusing to cooperate (that resistance comes from the glutens in the dough; by giving them a minute to relax, they become more compliant). Spread the onions evenly over the dough, all the way to the edges, then sprinkle with the capers and scatter the cheese evenly over the pizza.
Bake the pizza until the crust is golden and the Cheddar is melted and golden in places, 25 to 35 minutes. Transfer the pizza to a cutting board and slice before serving.
◁ POTATO PIZZA WITH HERBS
This carb-on-carb combination is a classic in Italy. Our version is based on our friend Jim Lahey’s Pizza Patate, which he serves at his Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City.
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 pound waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 medium onion, very thinly sliced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup coarsely chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as rosemary, savory, oregano, and dill, divided
1 recipe Pizza Dough
Peel the potatoes if you like, then slice them as thinly as possible on an adjustable-blade slicer, such as a Benriner or mandoline, into a large bowl. Cover the potatoes with warm water, then stir in the salt. Let the potatoes stand in the water for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. Drain the potatoes and spread them out in a single layer on a clean kitchen towel. Loosely roll up the towel to dry the potatoes, then place the potatoes in a large bowl and toss with the onion, oil, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 2 tablespoons herbs.
Preheat the oven to 475°F.
Transfer the dough to a well-oiled baking sheet and turn it over in the oil to coat it. Stretch the dough to the edges, letting the dough rest for a minute if it is pulling back and refusing to cooperate (that resistance comes from the glutens in the dough; by giving them a minute to relax, they become more compliant). Spread the potato mixture evenly over the dough.
Bake the pizza until the crust is golden on the bottom and the potatoes are browned in places, about 30 minutes. Transfer the pizza to a cutting board and cut it into pieces. Sprinkle the remaining herbs over the pizza and serve.
◁ POTATO GNOCCHI WITH RAMP BUTTER SAUCE
These potato dumplings have just enough flour to hold things together, which keeps them from becoming the all-too-common leaden bricks that most of us associate with gnocchi. In the spring, we serve this with ramps, but it works just as well with early summer onions or even scallions.
SERVES 4
1 pound waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 large egg yolks
1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 (6 ounce) bunch ramps, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper
Cover the potatoes with salted cold water by 2 inches in a large pot, then bring to simmer and cook until the potatoes are very tender, 25 to 35 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander, and when they are cool enough to handle, peel the potatoes.
Force the potatoes through a ricer into a large bowl, then let them cool completely (they will absorb more flour if they are warm, which can make the gnocchi heavy).
Add the flour, yolks, cheese, and 1 1/4 teaspoons salt to the potatoes and stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture begins to come together. Form the mixture into a ball, gently kneading it to make a dough just until it is smooth, about 1 minute. Take care not to over-knead it.
Generously flour your work surface. Roll a handful of the dough into a long 1/2-inch-thick rope. Cut the rope crosswise into 1-inch pieces and toss lightly with the flour on the work surface. Transfer the gnocchi to a floured rimmed baking sheet. (The gnocchi can be made ahead to this point and frozen on the baking sheet. Once frozen, transfer the gnocchi to a plastic bag. When you want to cook them, the frozen gnocchi can be stirred directly into boiling salted water.)
Heat the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat and cook until the bits on the bottom are just golden brown. Stir in the ramps and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then transfer the ramp butter to a large bowl. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Cook the gnocchi in a large pot of boiling salted water until they float, then cook them 1 to 2 minutes longer, checking one after 1 minute to make sure it is cooked all the way through. With a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the bowl with the ramp butter as they are cooked. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
◁ CLASSIC ZABAGLIONE
This dessert should be in every cook’s repertoire for three reasons: it’s dead simple, incredibly delicious, and requires only egg yolks, sugar, and booze—things almost everyone has on hand. Pour it over fresh fruit in the summer (strawberries are the classic combo, when in season) or try it with poached dried fruit in the fall. Serve it with cookies in the winter or roasted rhubarb in the spring. Serve it all by itself too. Using Marsala is classic, but just about any sweet alcohol will suffice.
SERVES 6 TO 8
4 large egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup sweet Marsala wine
Kosher salt
Combine the yolks, sugar, Marsala, and a pinch of salt in a heavy 2-quart saucepan. Place the saucepan over medium heat and whisk like hell (or use a handheld mixer if you’re not interested in a workout) until it creates a thick foam, 2 to 4 minutes. (If you’re nervous about it, place the ingredients in a bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water to create a double boiler.) The zabaglione is ready when you hold the whisk over the pan and a ribbon of foam coming off the whisk takes a second or two to dissolve into the rest of the mixture. As you work, lift the pan off the burner and lower the heat if necessary to prevent scrambling the eggs. Serve the zabaglione immediately in sherry glasses or over fresh or roasted fruit.
WHOLE EGG PASTA
We used to make this recipe for simple egg pasta the way Nonna would have, by forming a well of flour on the work surface and cracking the eggs into it. But we find it much easier to work in a bowl, which keeps the liquid from escaping across the counter. You can easily halve (or double) these ingredients, depending on how many mouths you have to feed. Note that the following recipes include instructions for rolling and cutting the pasta.
MAKES about 1 1/4 pounds, enough to serve 6 as a main or 10 as a first course
2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Place the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the eggs, oil, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to the well and work the flour into the liquid with a fork, little by little, until a dough forms. Depending on the size of your eggs, you may not need all the flour, or you may need a little more if the dough is sticky. Turn the dough out of the bowl onto a work surface and knead it until you can form it into an elastic ball, about 8 minutes. Alternatively, you can blend the ingredients in a food processor until the dough forms a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
Cut the dough into quarters and dust each piece with flour. Keep the other pieces of dough covered with plastic wrap while you work with 1 piece at a time. Using a pasta machine, roll 1 piece of dough through the widest setting 7 or 8 times, folding the dough and dusting it lightly with flour as necessary between each pass. Adjust the rollers to the next narrower setting and pass the dough through the rollers once without folding. Continue to roll the dough through each smaller setting once without folding, dusting as necessary with flour if the dough feels tacky, until it is a thin sheet. Cut the pasta into the desired shape, tossing it with additional flour to prevent it from sticking. Cook the pasta right away or hang it over a pole such as a clean broom handle until dry. The dried pasta keeps well at room temperature until you’re ready to use it.
◁ EGG YOLK AND HERBED RICOTTA RAVIOLI WITH LARDONS AND WILTED KALE
These oversized ravioli are a bit of a magic trick. A whole egg yolk is enveloped between sheets of the dough and remains runny after the pasta is cooked. As you cut open the pasta pouches, the yolk runs out onto the plate, completing a dish that sauces itself.
SERVES 6 as a first course
FOR THE RAVIOLI
1/2 recipe Whole Egg Pasta (on the adjacent page)
3/4 cup Fresh Whole Milk Ricotta
2 tablespoons mixed chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, thyme, and dill
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 large egg yolks
FOR THE TOPPING
3 (1/4-inch-thick) slices Celery-Brined Bacon or slab bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 ounces baby kale
To make the ravioli, follow the instructions for Whole Egg Pasta (on the adjacent page), quartering the dough and rolling 1 piece into a thin sheet (#6 or #7 on a KitchenAid pasta roller attachment; you should barely see through the pasta as it sits on a work surface). Lay the finished pasta sheet out on the counter and dust it on both sides with flour. Repeat with a second piece of dough. To keep the pasta sheets from drying out, only roll 2 pieces of the dough at a time and add the filling and shape the ravioli before rolling the remaining pieces of dough.
To make the filling, stir together the ricotta, herbs, and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper, or to taste.
With a rolled sheet of dough in front of you, place a generous 2 tablespoons of the filling in a mound a couple of inches from one end of the dough, then place another mound of filling every 5 inches along the sheet of dough to make 3 ravioli. Use the rounded side of a tablespoon to make a nest in the center of each mound, then place 1 egg yolk in each nest. Brush the dough around the filling with water, then drape the second sheet of dough over top. Gently press the top sheet of dough around each mound of filling to remove any air bubbles (which can make the pasta puff and explode as it boils), then use a 3 1/2-inch round or square cookie cutter to cut out the ravioli. Transfer the ravioli to a floured baking sheet and cover lightly with plastic wrap until you’re ready to cook them. Make 3 more ravioli in the same manner using the remaining dough, filling, and yolks.
To make the topping, combine the bacon and oil in a medium heavy skillet over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the bacon is browned but not crisp, about 6 minutes. Add the vinegar and let it simmer for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper to taste (use a leaf of kale to taste it). Keep the sauce warm in the skillet.
Cook the ravioli in a large pot of salted boiling water until tender, about 3 minutes. While the ravioli cook, toss the kale with a couple tablespoons of the warm dressing and divide among 6 salad plates. Lift each raviolo out of the water with a large slotted spoon, blot on paper towels to drain, then place on top of the kale. Spoon the remaining dressing and bacon on and around the ravioli. Serve immediately.
SQUARE SPAGHETTI WITH CHERRY TOMATOES, GROUND CHERRIES, CORN, AND CHANTERELLES
This dish is only worth making in July and August at that moment when cherry tomatoes, ground cherries, and corn are all sweet and ripe and chanterelle mushrooms dot the woods with their bright orange scatter. When you combine that kind of perfect produce with Italian pasta technique and a classic French beurre blanc sauce, the result is just amazing.
SERVES 6 TO 10
1 recipe Whole Egg Pasta
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups small chanterelle mushrooms, halved
4 ears very fresh corn, kernels cut off
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pint very ripe cherry tomatoes
1 pint ground cherries (also called cape gooseberries), peeled
2 large shallots, finely chopped
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces
1/4 cup fresh dill fronds
To make the pasta, follow the instructions for Whole Egg Pasta, quartering the dough and rolling each piece into a thin sheet until it is about 1/16 inch thick (#4 or #5 on a KitchenAid pasta roller attachment). Roll out all the pieces of dough before cutting the pasta and dust them with flour on both sides, keeping them flat on a large work surface. If you’re lucky enough to have a chitarra pasta cutter at home, now is the time to break it out. If you don’t (we don’t!), cut the sheets into thin noodles, about 1/16 inch wide, using a thin pasta cutter, then toss the pasta with flour and set it aside on a floured baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining sheets of dough.
Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then stir in the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are golden in places, 6 to 8 minutes. Turn off the heat, add the corn, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and stir until the corn is not raw any more, 30 seconds for really fresh corn, 1 minute if it’s a little older. Transfer the mushrooms and corn to a large bowl. Halve the cherry tomatoes and ground cherries, then add them both to the bowl.
Combine the shallots, vinegar, and wine in a medium heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil until the liquid has completely evaporated and only the shallots are left (this seems like it’s going too far, but it’s not—you must reduce the liquid completely). Whisk the cream and 1/2 teaspoon salt into the shallots and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the butter, a few pieces at a time, until it is completely melted and incorporated. Pour this sauce over the vegetables in the bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the pasta in a pot of boiling salted water until it is al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking liquid, then drain the pasta and add it immediately to the bowl with the sauce and vegetables. Toss the pasta with the sauce and let it stand for 1 minute or so. The pasta will start to suck up the sauce. Stir the pasta to see if it has become too thick; if it has, stir in some of the cooking liquid to thin the sauce. Transfer the pasta to plates and spoon the remaining sauce and vegetables over the pasta. Scatter the dill fronds over the plates and serve immediately.
SQUARE SPAGHETTI WITH CRAB AND UNI BUTTER
The inspiration for this dish—which one student at the school called the best thing he’d ever tasted—comes from seafood chef Dave Pasternack, who has been called a “fish whisperer” by the New York Times. Try to find East Coast uni, which has a sweeter and subtler flavor than the Pacific variety of sea urchin. When shopping for uni, look for intact pieces that have the fresh scent of the ocean.
SERVES 6 as a first course
1/2 recipe Whole Egg Pasta
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
4 ounces fresh sea urchin (uni)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces jumbo lump crab meat, picked through for shells
Sliced fresh chives, for garnish
To make the pasta, follow the instructions for Whole Egg Pasta, quartering the dough and rolling each piece into a thin sheet until it is about 1/16 inch thick (#4 or #5 on a KitchenAid pasta roller attachment). Roll out all the pieces of dough before cutting the pasta and dust them with flour on both sides, keeping them flat on a large work surface. If you’re lucky enough to have a chitarra pasta cutter at home, now is the time to break it out. If you don’t (we don’t!), cut the sheets into thin noodles, about 1/16 inch wide, using a thin pasta cutter, then toss the pasta with flour, shape into loose nests, and set aside on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough.
Combine the butter and uni in a food processor and blend until smooth, then chill. Cut the chilled uni butter into pieces.
Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water and drain the pasta. Toss the pasta in a large bowl with 1 tablespoon oil to prevent the noodles from sticking together.
Bring 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water to a simmer in a small saucepan, then whisk in the uni butter until it is emulsified. Add the crab meat, tossing to combine. Transfer the mixture to the bowl with the pasta and toss gently to combine. Add more of the pasta cooking water to thin the sauce if it seems dry.
Divide among 6 small plates and sprinkle with chives. Serve immediately.
TAGLIATELLE WITH ROASTED VEGETABLE SAUCE
We often make this roasted vegetable pasta sauce in our kids’ classes. It’s a fantastic way to get lots of vegetables into little bellies (of course, the butter helps to seal the deal). Feel free to substitute whatever veggies you have on hand; kohlrabi and turnips are one of our favorite combinations.
SERVES 6 TO 10
1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 large garlic cloves, smashed, divided
4 fresh thyme sprigs, divided
2 fresh rosemary sprigs, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into small florets
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 recipe Whole Egg Pasta
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Toss the squash on a large baking sheet with 2 tablespoons oil, 1 garlic clove, 2 thyme sprigs, 1 rosemary sprig, and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Toss the cauliflower florets on another baking sheet with the remaining oil, garlic, thyme, rosemary, and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Roast the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until both are tender and golden in places, 20 to 30 minutes. Pick out the herb sprigs, letting the roasted herb leaves fall back onto the vegetables. Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl and cover loosely to keep warm.
While the vegetables roast, heat the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat and cook until the bits on the bottom are just golden brown. Transfer the butter to the bowl with the vegetables. Keep warm.
To make the tagliatelle, follow the instructions for Whole Egg Pasta, quartering the dough and rolling each piece into a thin sheet (#6 or #7 on a KitchenAid pasta roller attachment; you should barely see through the pasta as it sits on a work surface). Lay the finished pasta sheet out on the counter, generously dust both sides with flour, and loosely roll it into a cigar shape. Use a sharp knife to cut the pasta into 1/2-inch-wide noodles. Unravel the noodles, toss them with flour so they don’t stick to each other, and place them on floured baking sheets until ready to cook. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough.
Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Reserve 1 cup pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta.
Add the pasta and some of the cooking water to the bowl with the vegetables and toss to combine, adding more pasta cooking water if the pasta seems dry. Serve immediately.
◁ VANILLA PANNA COTTA WITH RHUBARB SYRUP
The straightforward flavorings of vanilla and rhubarb in this panna cotta illustrate the notion of less is more. The tartness and crunch of the almost-raw rhubarb are the perfect accompaniment to the simply flavored cream.
SERVES 6
FOR THE PANNA COTTAS
1 1/4 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin
2 tablespoons water
2 cups heavy cream, divided
1/3 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean
Kosher salt
1/3 cup sour cream
FOR THE RHUBARB SYRUP
1 large stalk rhubarb, very thinly sliced
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
EQUIPMENT:
6 (1/2-cup) ramekins
To make the panna cottas, sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small bowl and let it soften. Combine 1 2/3 cups heavy cream and the sugar in a small saucepan. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the cream. Add the bean and a large pinch of salt to the pan. Heat the cream mixture over low heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, then remove from the heat and whisk in the gelatin mixture until dissolved. Let cool to room temperature, then remove the vanilla bean pod.
Whisk the sour cream into the cream mixture. Chill the cream mixture, stirring occasionally, until it has the consistency of raw egg whites, about 30 minutes. If the mixture jells too much, give it a good whisk to break it up before folding in the whipped cream.
Whip the remaining 1/3 cup heavy cream in a chilled bowl until it just holds soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the chilled cream mixture, then divide among lightly oiled ramekins. Chill until the panna cottas are set, about 3 hours.
To make the syrup, place the rhubarb in a heatproof bowl. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Pour the hot syrup over the rhubarb and let it cool to room temperature.
To serve, run a knife around the edge of the molds and burp the panna cottas onto serving plates (shown here). Serve the panna cottas topped with the rhubarb and some of the syrup.
◁ LEMON VERBENA PANNA COTTA WITH SUMMER FRUIT
Each summer we plant a lone lemon verbena in the garden. It grows so robustly that by early August, it has convinced us that it’s more of a tree than a simple herb. We infuse it in everything we can think of, from teas to this summer version of panna cotta. In the peak of summer, we forage for wood sorrel, or Oxalis, which has small heart-shaped, lemon-flavored leaves, to use as a garnish. If you live in an area where wood sorrel is scarce (though it grows just about everywhere), you could substitute edible flower petals as a garnish.
SERVES 6
FOR THE PANNA COTTAS
1 1/4 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin
2 tablespoons water
2 cups heavy cream, divided
4 lemon verbena sprigs, about 6 inches long each
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup sour cream
FOR THE FRUIT
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
4 lemon verbena sprigs, about 6 inches long each
Kosher salt
2 cups seasonal fruit, such as peaches and blueberries, sliced, stemmed, and pitted as necessary
Wood sorrel leaves, for garnish
EQUIPMENT:
6 (1/2-cup) ramekins
To make the panna cottas, sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small bowl and let it soften. Combine 1 2/3 cups heavy cream, the verbena, sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a small saucepan and cook over low heat until it just simmers and the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat, cover the pan, and let the mixture steep for 10 minutes.
Remove the verbena from the cream, then whisk in the gelatin mixture until dissolved. Whisk in the sour cream and chill the cream mixture, stirring occasionally, until it has the consistency of egg whites, about 30 minutes. If the mixture jells too much, give it a good whisk to break it up before folding in the whipped cream.
Whip the remaining 1/3 cup heavy cream in a chilled bowl until it just holds soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the chilled cream mixture, then divide among lightly oiled ramekins. Chill until the panna cottas are set, about 3 hours.
To prepare the fruit, combine the sugar, water, verbena, and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil for 5 minutes, then discard the verbena. Place the fruit in a heatproof bowl and pour the hot syrup over it.
To serve, run a knife around the edge of the molds and burp the panna cottas onto serving plates (shown here). Spoon the fruit and some of the verbena syrup over the panna cottas. Garnish with the wood sorrel.
MAPLE PANNA COTTA WITH APPLE CIDER SYRUP
A single very old sugar maple tree stands just outside the window of the school. We tap the tree and reduce the sweet sap into syrup—it yields just about enough to make this recipe. Apple cider syrup is a fantastic topping for almost everything, from ice cream to baby back ribs. You’ll use up the leftovers from this recipe in only a few meals.
SERVES 6
FOR THE PANNA COTTAS
1 1/4 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin
2 tablespoons water
2 cups heavy cream, divided
1/3 cup maple syrup
Kosher salt
1/3 cup sour cream
FOR THE SYRUP
1 cup fresh apple cider
1/3 cup granulated sugar
Maple sugar, for garnish
EQUIPMENT:
6 (1/2-cup) ramekins
To make the panna cottas, sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small bowl and let it soften. Combine 1 2/3 cups heavy cream, the maple syrup, and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer. Remove from the heat and whisk in the gelatin mixture until dissolved. Whisk in the sour cream, then chill the mixture, stirring occasionally, until it is the consistency of raw egg whites, about 30 minutes. If the mixture jells too much, give it a good whisk to break it up before folding in the whipped cream.
Whip the remaining 1/3 cup heavy cream in a chilled bowl until it just holds soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the chilled cream mixture, then divide among lightly oiled ramekins. Chill until the panna cottas are set, about 3 hours.
To make the syrup, combine the apple cider and granulated sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook until the syrup is reduced to about 3/4 cup. Let the syrup cool to room temperature.
To serve, run a knife around the edge of the molds and burp the panna cottas onto serving plates (on the adjacent page). Drizzle some of the cider syrup and sprinkle a pinch of maple sugar over each panna cotta. Reserve the remaining cider syrup for another use; it will keep, refrigerated, for a month.
HONEY PANNA COTTA WITH CANDIED ORANGE ZEST
Ian has been keeping bees since he was a teenager, so needless to say, there’s always plenty of honey in the school’s pantry. Candied Orange Zest (shown here), which we make in our knife skills class as a way to practice julienne, is another ingredient we always have on hand. Together they make for pretty fine platefellows.
SERVES 6
1 1/4 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin
2 tablespoons water
2 cups heavy cream, divided
1/3 cup honey
Kosher salt
1/3 cup sour cream
About 1/3 cup Candied Orange Zest (here)
EQUIPMENT:
6 (1/2-cup) ramekins
To make the panna cottas, sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small bowl and let it soften. Combine 1 2/3 cups heavy cream, the honey, and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer. Remove from the heat and whisk in the gelatin mixture until dissolved. Whisk in the sour cream, then chill the mixture, stirring occasionally, until it is the consistency of raw egg whites, about 30 minutes. If the mixture jells too much, give it a good whisk to break it up before folding in the whipped cream.
Whip the remaining 1/3 cup heavy cream in a chilled bowl until it just holds soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the chilled cream mixture, then divide among lightly oiled ramekins. Chill until the panna cottas are set, about 3 hours.
To serve, run a knife around the edge of the molds and burp the panna cottas onto serving plates (see below). Serve each one topped with some of the candied orange zest and its syrup.