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FOUR COUNTRIES, FOUR WAYS: BEANS

Beans are loaded with protein and plant fiber (the kind that’s so great at giving your digestive system a good scrub), but they’re also a great canvas for all kinds of ingredients and flavors. With a few simple swaps you can change from Greek-style beans with tomatoes, herbs, and feta to Spanish-style accented with sausage, sun-dried tomato, and parsley.

Buy from a farmers’ market or store with a high turnover, as old beans can take as much as three times longer than fresher ones to soften when cooking. (There’s also no shame in using canned beans. Just make sure the can is BPA-free.) If you avoid beans because of their reputed side effects, I recommend soaking your beans with a small piece of seaweed. Sea vegetables such as kelp or kombu help break down the enzymes that can make beans hard to digest and, in turn, lead to gas.

wild bonus: Beans help produce short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), which help intestinal flora flourish in a healthy, balanced way.

COOKING DRIED BEANS

1 pound dried beans

1 piece of kombu (about 3 inches)

1 teaspoon Celtic sea salt

1 bay leaf

Put the beans in a medium pot and add enough cold water to cover by at least 3 inches. Add the kombu and soak the beans overnight. Or do a “rapid soak” by bringing the beans to a boil and cooking for 2 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let sit for 1 hour.

Drain the beans, discarding the kombu, and return them to the pot. Cover with fresh cold water and bring to a boil. Skim any scum that rises to the surface. Add the salt and bay leaf, reduce to a gentle simmer, and cover. After about 45 minutes, remove the lid and skim off any foam. Test the beans to see if they’ve softened. If not, cook until a sampling of a few beans assures they’re uniformly tender, another 10 minutes or so.

Drain the beans in a sieve set over a large bowl. Reserve the cooking liquid separately.

MAKING BAKED BEANS

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

In a medium soup pot or Dutch oven, cook the sauté ingredients (see the variations that follow) over medium heat until softened, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir in the cooked beans, cover, and transfer the pot to the oven. Bake until the vegetables have all cooked through and the mixture is fragrant, about 30 minutes.

To serve, season the beans with salt, pepper, and extra-virgin olive oil. Garnish with any additional toppings.

GREEK-STYLE BAKED BEANS

Tomatoes Dill Feta

Serves 6

For the Beans:

1 pound dried butter beans, cooked

For the Sauté:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 large Spanish onion, finely chopped

2 large carrots, finely chopped

3 celery stalks, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

For Baking:

1 pound tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped, or 1 can (14 ounces) crushed tomatoes

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon tomato paste

¼ cup chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Pinch of ground cinnamon

Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

For Serving:

Celtic sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup crumbled feta cheese, for topping

Fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped, for topping

SPANISH-STYLE BAKED BEANS

Sausage Sun-Dried Tomato Parsley

Serves 4 to 6

To give this a stew-like consistency, add 4 cups chicken, beef, or vegetable stock before baking.

For the Beans:

1 pound dried cannellini beans, cooked

For the Sauté:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 fully cooked organic turkey or chicken sausages, cut into bite-size pieces

1 medium onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

For Baking:

1 cup diced sun-dried tomatoes

6 cups shredded baby spinach leaves (or other greens such as collards, kale, or dandelion)

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

For Serving:

Celtic sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Extra-virgin olive oil

FRENCH-STYLE BAKED BEANS

Shallots Thyme Mushroom

Serves 4 to 6

For the Beans:

1 pound dried cannellini beans, cooked

For the Sauté:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

6 cremini mushrooms, trimmed and chopped

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

For Baking:

½ cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

For Serving:

Extra-virgin olive oil

Celtic sea salt and ground black pepper

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for topping

ITALIAN-STYLE BEAN SALAD

Frisée Tuna Vinaigrette

Serves 6

This variation is slightly different in that it’s not baked; it’s more of a salad that is served at room temperature.

1 head frisée, cored and leaves torn into bite-size pieces

Extra-virgin olive oil

Celtic sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound dried cannellini beans or other small white bean, cooked

2 celery stalks, thinly sliced

2 (6-ounce) cans tuna, packed in water or oil, drained

3 to 4 tablespoons Wild Vinaigrette

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Place the frisée in a large bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste, then toss well to coat. Set aside.

In another large bowl, combine the cooked beans and celery. Season with salt and pepper.

Spread the dressed frisée on a large serving platter. Layer the beans on top of the greens and top with the tuna. Drizzle the vinaigrette over all and garnish with the parsley.

Note: Water-packed tuna will have a milder flavor, while oil-packed is richer; my favorite brand is Wild Planet.