staples

stock up the larder with a cook’s a–z, from basic breads to zesty sauces

Whipping up batches of your own homemade seasonings and condiments is one of the most satisfying aspects of cooking. I have a sensitive palate – in part because my own dear mother raised us additive- and preservative-free all those years ago – and accordingly harbour an intense dislike of harsh, chemical flavours. Many popular commercial sauces and flavourings leave my mouth feeling as if it has been attacked by a scouring agent and I am noticing that my children are also becoming increasingly aware of pure and good tastes as they grow older. Making your own condiments and seasonings has the added advantage of ensuring that you get what you want. So often we end up forking out for the unhealthy and unwanted fillers that are frequently added to commercial products. Not only do homemade condiments and seasonings taste better, they make fantastic gifts, too. So next time you pass a market stall and see a glut of seasonal produce going at a good rate, grab some and get cooking! With simple sauces like pesto, there is simply no comparison between the shop-bought and homemade varieties. You may very well get addicted to making your own. Remember to use the best ingredients you can afford. Once you set about the business of extracting the essences and flavours from food, you’ll want those essences to be of the finest quality. Store your homemade sauces, seasonings and condiments in clearly labelled, airtight, sterilised containers or glass jars.

Focaccia (Italian flatbread)

This is the easiest bread to make and you can add whatever toppings you like.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix the flour, salt, sugar and yeast in a large, slightly warmed bowl. Make a well in the centre and add 1 T (15 ml) of the oil and the crushed garlic (if using).
  2. Pour the tepid water into the well and use your fingers to mix well with the flour.
  3. Keep working the dough until it forms a ball and your hands come away clean. See tips about consistency in step 3 of the white bread recipe on page 175 and add more water or flour if required.
  4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead with the heel of your hand for 10–15 minutes, until the dough feels warm and spongy. Form into a ball and rub all over with a little more of the oil. Lightly rub a large, warm bowl with 2 T (30 ml) of the oil, place the dough ball inside and cover with clingfilm and a few clean, dry cloths. Leave in a warm, draught-free place to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
  5. Remove the risen dough from the bowl and place on a lightly floured surface. Punch down and reform into a ball.
  6. Add another 1 T (15 ml) of the oil and knead for 4–5 minutes. The dough will feel quite slippery by now from all the oil.
  7. Flatten with a rolling pin and place on a baking tray lightly sprayed with non-stick cooking spray. Using your fingertips, work the dough to cover the entire surface of the tray, forming a large flatbread.
  8. Sprinkle with the rosemary and sea salt (or any toppings you fancy), cover with clingfilm and leave to rise for 30 minutes.
  9. When about ready to bake, preheat the oven to 220 °C. Remove the clingfilm and use your fingertips to make deep indents all over the dough.
  10. Bake in the middle of the oven for 15 minutes until light golden brown.

Serves 6–8

Chef’s tip

Delicious toppings or additions to the dough include: pitted black olives, basil, sun-dried tomatoes, ham or fried bacon cubes, cheese, cooked potato cubes, any herbs, caramelised onions, artichokes and mushrooms. Go easy on the quantity though, focaccia is not pizza, and you want a flavouring, not a blanket.

White bread

Nothing beats the smell of homemade bread baking in the oven. The secret to baking really good bread is straightforward – use top-quality, stone-ground bread flour, organic if possible. Instant or fresh yeast can be used. A really good knead to develop the gluten in the dough is required for a light and airy texture.

Ingredients

Method

  1. If using instant yeast, mix the contents of the sachet with the flour and salt before adding the liquid. If using fresh yeast, dissolve the honey in the tepid water and crumble over the yeast. Leave for about 5 minutes. The yeast will become spongelike.
  2. Put the flour, salt, wheatgerm and instant yeast (if using) in a large, slightly warmed bowl. Make a well in the centre and slowly add the honey water, all the while raking flour into the well with your fingers. Using your hands, mix until the dough forms a sticky ball. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface.
  3. Work the ball of dough with your hands until they come away clean – the ball of dough should be firm, but not hard. If it feels soft and sticky, add a little flour, about 1 T (15 ml) at a time, and work into the dough. If the dough feels dry and crumbly, add a little water, 1 T (15 ml) at a time.
  4. Keep kneading with the heel of your hand, pushing the dough away from you and pulling it back to form a ball. Do this for 10–15 minutes until the dough starts to feel puffy and warm under your hands. The dough should be pliable.
  5. Lightly oil a large bowl and rub a little oil all over the ball of dough. Rest the ball in the bowl, cover with clingfilm and a couple of clean, dry cloths and set aside to rise for 1–11⁄2 hours, or overnight in the refrigerator, until the dough has doubled in size.
  6. Punch down the risen dough and reform into a ball. Knead again for another minute or so and place on a baking sheet or in a loaf tin lightly sprayed with non-stick cooking spray. Cover again with clingfilm or slip the entire lot inside a large plastic bag, blow air in to inflate it slightly and tie it tightly. Let the dough rise once more, for 45–60 minutes, until doubled in size.
  7. When about ready to bake, preheat the oven to 220 °C.
  8. Uncover the loaf, slash the top deeply a few times with a razor or very sharp chef’s knife and bake in the centre of the oven for 35–40 minutes, until the base sounds hollow when rapped with your knuckles. If it doesn’t, return to the oven for another 5 minutes before testing again. Leave to cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.

Makes 1 large or 2 small loaves

Health loaf

This is a typical spoon bread, in that the dough forms quite a soft batter that is spooned into the loaf tins where it rises for an hour. This bread freezes beautifully for up to a month and makes lovely toast.

Ingredients

Method

  1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the three types of flour, yeast, seeds and salt.
  2. Dissolve the honey in the warm water and add the oil. Pour this into the dry ingredients and stir very well with a wooden spoon until thoroughly mixed. It should be the consistency of thick porridge.
  3. Spray two 500 ml-capacity loaf tins with non-stick cooking spray. Spoon the batter into the tins, sprinkle over the extra seeds and cover with clingfilm and a few clean, dry cloths. Set aside for 1 hour to rise until doubled in size.
  4. When about ready to bake, preheat the oven to 200 °C. Bake the loaves in the middle of the oven for 1 hour until golden brown and the bases sound hollow when rapped with your knuckles. If they do not sound hollow, return to the oven for another 5 minutes before testing again.
  5. Leave to cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.

Makes 2 medium loaves

20-minute strawberry jam

The first time my mom told me she’d made strawberry jam in the microwave I didn’t expect anything edible, but this recipe is sensational. Try using other berries or a mixture of whatever is fresh and seasonal. Follow the recipe precisely – the first two times I made it, the jam looked a bit runny, so of course I cooked it longer and ended up with a substance I couldn’t get out of the jars for love or money. Don’t try larger quantities either, it won’t work as well.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Place the strawberries in a large glass bowl and pour over the lemon juice.
  2. Cook in the microwave on full power for 4 minutes and then stir in the sugar until completely dissolved.
  3. Cook for another 3 minutes and stir again. Cook for a further 15–20 minutes, no longer, stirring every 3 minutes. The jam will be runny at the end of cooking but will set as it cools down. Allow to stand for 5 minutes, then decant into a sterilised glass jar. Screw the lid on tightly and keep in the refrigerator for up to one month.

Makes 2 cups (500 ml)

Tapenade (black olive pâté)

Do make an effort to find dried olives for this, as I believe tapenade (as it is called in the south of France where it originated) made from brined olives tastes of not much more than brine. Add 1 t (5 ml) of dried chilli flakes if you like some warmth. This is bliss spread on hot garlic toasties and bruschetta or baked with feta, fish, cherry tomatoes and lashings of peppery, green extra-virgin olive oil.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Blend all the ingredients, except the olives, to a smooth paste in a food processor. Add the olive oil gradually until the desired consistency is reached.
  2. Add the olives and work into a coarse pâté. Store in a clean, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid for up to three months. Seal the pâté by covering it with a thin layer of olive oil before screwing on the lid.

Makes 1 cup (250 ml)

Chicken stock

We have roast chicken at least once a week, which means there’s always a carcass or two in the freezer waiting to be turned into a lovely robust stock. Supermarkets sometimes stock raw carcasses or you could try asking at the butcher’s counter. I have endless uses for good chicken stock – reduced to a lovely sticky gravy with some butter, wine and herbs; cooked up with noodles and dumplings into a sparkling soup; or used to cook rice or noodles. This recipe yields a shimmering, clear stock that can be frozen for up to one month. I learnt the technique of switching off the heat after an initial simmer from British chef John Campbell’s cookbook Formulas for Flavour.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Rinse the carcasses under running water and trim away any excess fat. Place in a large pot on the stove with all the other ingredients and bring to the boil.
  2. Skim the surface of any foam that forms and immediately turn off the heat, letting the chicken and vegetables sink to the bottom.
  3. Now turn the heat back on and bring the stock to a gentle simmer once more. Boiling fast will make the stock bitter and cloudy. Cook slowly for 2 hours, then strain through a colander and discard the solids. Clean the pot and return the stock to it. Bring the stock to a rapid boil to reduce the volume to 2 litres. Leave to cool completely before freezing for up to one month. Alternatively, store in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Makes 2 litres

Chef’s tip

Add a 5 cm piece of ginger and a stick of lemongrass when an Asian stock is desired.

Beef stock

Roasting the bones before simmering ensures a rich, deep colour and flavour. I add chicken wings to give the stock body, but you can also use a calf’s foot or pig’s trotter. For lamb stock, use 1.5 kg lamb bones.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 170 °C. Place the bones and chicken wings in two roasting pans and dot here and there with tomato paste. Scatter over the onions, carrots, celery and leek. Roast for about 50 minutes until the bones have turned brown.
  2. Place the bones and vegetables in a large pot on the stove and add the remaining ingredients. Bring to the boil and skim the surface of any foam that forms.
  3. Immediately turn off the heat and let the bones and vegetables sink to the bottom. Then turn the heat back on and cook at a gentle simmer, without stirring, for about 3 hours. Regularly skim the surface of any foam that forms.
  4. Strain through a colander and discard the solids. Return to the pot, bring to a rapid boil and reduce to about 1 litre. Leave to cool completely before freezing for up to one month. Alternatively, store in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Makes about 1 litre

Chef’s tip

For a rich red wine sauce, add 2 cups (500 ml) of very good dry red wine to the stock and reduce fast until almost syrupy in consistency. Whisk in 1 T (15 ml) of unsalted butter during the last 2 minutes of cooking to enhance the texture and flavour.

Fish stock

With the addition of some finely minced herbs and a little diced carrot, a reduced version of this stock makes a delightful soup. Make little dumplings using the Thai fishcake recipe (see page 64) and cook them in the broth until they float to the surface. Add a few chopped-up prawns and you have yourself a very classy starter. Add cleaned prawn shells or lobster carcasses for a richer seafood broth.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Rinse the fish bones and place in a bowl. Cover with cold water and allow to stand for 1 hour. Drain and discard the water.
  2. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and cook the vegetables and fennel until soft and translucent, but not brown. Add the fish bones and remaining ingredients and bring to the boil. Immediately turn off the heat and let all the ingredients sink to the bottom. Turn the heat back on and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
  3. Strain through a colander and discard the solids. Wipe the pot clean, return the stock to it and bring to a fast boil. Cook until reduced by half and remove from the stove. Cool completely before freezing for up to one month. Alternatively, store in the refrigerator for up to five days.

Makes 1 litre

Vegetable stock

Rice or pasta simply cooked in a light vegetable stock is one of my favourite pick-me-ups when I’m feeling below par. Add 35 g dried porcini mushrooms and 450 g minced fresh mushrooms to make a rich mushroom stock for risotto or pasta.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Place all the ingredients in a large pot with a tight-fitting lid and bring to the boil. Turn off the heat, put on the lid and leave to steep for 30 minutes.
  2. Turn the heat back on and simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain through a colander and discard the solids. Return to the pot, bring to the boil and cook until reduced to 2 litres. Cool completely before freezing for up to one month. Alternatively, store in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Makes 2 litres

American smoky barbecue sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix well and pour over meat. Keeps well in the refrigerator for up to one month.

Makes enough for 6 lamb chops or 2 T-bone steaks

Chinese barbecue sauce

Make this easy barbecue sauce using your homemade hoisin sauce (see below).

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix well and use as a marinade and to baste meat during cooking.

Makes 1⁄2 cup (125 ml)

Sweet and tangy barbecue sauce

Use on lamb, beef, chicken, pork or ribs. This sauce will keep in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Blend all the ingredients together until smooth and use to marinate meat.

Makes about 200 ml

Hoisin sauce

Slather this delicious Chinese condiment on all kinds of meat cuts, especially pork, chicken and ribs, before grilling, frying or roasting, or add a dash to stir-fries and Asian noodle dishes. For a quick marinade, dilute with a little water or orange juice and add grated ginger, honey, crushed garlic, soy sauce and sesame oil. This is by far my favourite kitchen standby.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the honey or molasses into the vinegar until dissolved and add the remaining ingredients. Stir very well until smooth and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one month.

Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)

Garam masala

‘Masala’ means ‘mixture’, and every Indian cook prepares garam masala according to their preference. Make a little at a time, as the aromatic oils in the spices evaporate quickly after they’ve been ground.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Grind the whole spices in a coffee or spice grinder and stir in the ground cinnamon. Sieve to remove any coarse bits and store in a clean, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid.

Makes about 50 ml

Mild masala

I use this masala in lamb curry (see page 135), but it is delicious in any curry or Indian marinade. Buy your spices from an outlet with a high turnover to guarantee freshness.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Grind the whole spices in a coffee or spice grinder and stir in the ground cinnamon. Sieve to remove any coarse bits and store in a clean, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid.

Makes 50–75 ml

Mild curry powder

Whole spices

Ground spices

Method

  1. Grind the whole spices finely in a coffee or spice grinder and sieve to remove any coarse bits.
  2. Mix in the ground spices and store in a clean, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. This curry powder will keep for up to three months.

Makes about 150 ml

Chinese five-spice powder

Sichuan peppercorns, available in speciality food stores, have a magical aromatic quality that makes the lips and tongue tingle. You can replace them with black or white pepper, but the flavour won’t be quite the same. This is excellent with pork dishes, especially slow-roasted pork (see page 137). Make a dipping salt by adding 2 T (30 ml) of sea salt flakes and serve with barbecued riblets or grilled calamari.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Grind the whole spices finely in a coffee or spice grinder and sieve to remove any coarse bits. Store in a clean, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid.

Makes 75–100 ml

Chinese ten-spice powder

Blended with some plain and sesame oils, some honey, a few spoonfuls of soy sauce and chutney, this makes an intoxicating barbecue rub for lamb, beef or pork.

Whole spices

Ground spices

Method

  1. Toast the whole spices in a dry frying pan for about 5 minutes, until lightly aromatic.
  2. Grind the toasted whole spices very finely in a coffee or spice grinder and sieve to remove any coarse bits.
  3. Mix thoroughly with the ground spices and store in a clean, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid.

Makes about 75 ml

Salad dressings

Commercial salad dressings contain all sorts of additives and preservatives that totally ruin the taste of gentle leaves and fresh vegetables. Whisking up a variety of dressings at home couldn’t be easier and is far lighter on the pocket.

Basic vinaigrette

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the mustard and salt into the vinegar until dissolved. Salt does not dissolve in oil, so always start with the vinegar and salt.
  2. Add the pepper and gradually pour in the oil, whisking as you pour to make a smooth emulsion.

Makes 75 ml

Honey and mustard salad dressing

This dressing is a good choice when using salad ingredients with some punch, such as goat’s milk cheese, ham, olives or eggs.

Ingredients

Method

  1. In a small jug and using a fork, whisk the honey, vinegar, salt and mustard until the salt has dissolved.
  2. Stir in the minced onion or shallots and season with black pepper. Add the oil and whisk for about 30 seconds until an emulsion forms.

Makes about 175 ml

Fresh herb vinaigrette

My chef friend Gina, who studied at Ballymaloe Cookery School in Ireland, taught me this recipe many years ago. It keeps for about three days in the refrigerator and is delectable on any green, potato or pasta salad, as well as cold fish dishes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Combine all the ingredients, except the oil, in a food processor and blend until very smooth. Alternatively, blend using a hand-held whisk.
  2. Gradually whisk in the oil until an emulsion forms.

Makes about 300 ml

Sweet mustard sauce

An old-fashioned favourite. As a child, I loved this sauce with frankfurters and potato salad. Come to think of it, I still do!

Ingredients

Method

  1. Combine all the ingredients and whisk until smooth and the sugar has dissolved.
  2. Pour into a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat gently for 4–5 minutes until the sauce has thickened slightly. Allow to cool completely before decanting into a clean, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. This sauce will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Makes 180–250 ml

Curried chutney dressing

I adore this dressing with any sort of starchy ingredient, such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, beans or pasta. You can even add it to cooked barley or wheat, along with some chopped dried apricots and raisins. It will keep well in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Combine all the ingredients and whisk until very smooth. Store in a clean, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid.

Makes 1 cup (250 ml)

Sweet chilli sauce

All the rage these days, sweet chilli sauce is great with grilled chops, fish or seafood, or smeared over cold ham and brie on a sarmie. This will keep in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Ingredients

Method

  1. In a food processor, blend the peppers, chilli, garlic, ginger, onion, fish sauce and tomatoes until very smooth. Place in a small stainless-steel saucepan and add the sugar and vinegar. Bring to the boil and allow to bubble for 5 minutes.
  2. Turn down the heat and simmer gently for 40–60 minutes, stirring frequently, until nice and thick.
  3. Decant while warm into sterilised glass jars with tight-fitting lids.

Makes 600 ml

Onion and raisin pickle in balsamic vinegar

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the onions in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to stand for 30 minutes to soften the skins. Peel the onions, leaving the root stems intact, but trimmed, so that no roots show.
  2. Heat the oil in a saucepan and cook the onions over a high heat until golden.
  3. Add the mustard seeds and stir well. When the seeds begin to pop, add the raisins, ginger and vinegar. Stir well and turn down the heat.
  4. Gently cook over a low heat for 25–30 minutes until the onions begin to caramelise.
  5. Stir in the orange zest, season with salt and black pepper, and cook for a further 15–20 minutes until the juices are thick and syrupy. Store in sterilised glass jars in the refrigerator for up to one month.

Makes about 600 ml

Rosemary pesto

Ingredients

Method

  1. Very finely chop the rosemary and parsley leaves.
  2. Blend the herbs, garlic, Parmesan and chilli to a fine paste in a food processor.
  3. Add the lemon juice and olive oil and season well. Blend until smooth and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to five days.

Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)