6
Cookies by Any Other Name
Puffy whoopie pies; chewy, cakey, or fudgy brownies; fruit-packed bars; and lush chocolate truffles—call them whatever you like, they’re still among the best sweet treats we know.
Mini Chocolate Whoopie Pies
MAKES ABOUT 32
There are a lot of stories about where the whoopie pie first came into being—from Maine to Massachusetts to Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Whatever its origins, this sandwich of fluffy cake with creamy filling has taken its place in the hearts (and lunch boxes) of cookie and cake lovers everywhere, in myriad forms. Here, we’ve made them small in size and big in chocolate flavor.
FOR THE COOKIES
1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
1½ teaspoons baking soda
½ teaspoon coarse salt
4 tablespoons (¼ cup) unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
FOR THE WHIPPED GANACHE
8 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate
1 cup heavy cream
⅛ teaspoon coarse salt
1. Make the cookies: Preheat oven to 375°F. Whisk together flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. In another medium bowl, beat butter and both sugars with an electric mixer on high until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add egg and beat until mixture is pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
2. With mixer on low, add flour mixture in 2 additions, alternating with milk and vanilla, beginning and ending with flour; mix until just combined.
3. Transfer dough to a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch round tip (such as Ateco #806). Pipe dough (about 2 teaspoons per cookie) onto parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing about 2 inches apart. Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, until cookies spring back when lightly pressed, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer sheets to wire racks and let cool completely.
4. Make the whipped ganache: Coarsely chop chocolate with a serrated knife and place in a large heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, bring cream just to a boil over medium-high heat. Pour over chocolate and add salt. Let stand for 10 minutes; then stir. Let ganache cool, 45 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. With an electric mixer on medium-high, beat ganache until pale and fluffy, 2 to 4 minutes.
5. Transfer whipped ganache to a pastry bag fitted with the ½-inch tip. Pipe ganache (2 to 2½ teaspoons per cookie) onto flat sides of half the cookies. Sandwich with remaining cookies, pressing gently. (Whoopie pies can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 3 days.)
Lemon-Date Bars
MAKES 2 DOZEN
Medjools are known as the “king of dates” because they outshine all other varieties in size, juiciness, and natural sweetness—they’re worth seeking out. Here, their caramel flavor beautifully balances the deliciously tart lemon bars that were inspired by pastry chef and cookbook author Maida Heatter. Reducing the baking temperature after the crust turns golden brown and the citrus filling is added allows the bars to set without burning the crust.
FOR THE CRUST
1½ sticks (¾ cup) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces, plus more for baking dish
1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon coarse salt
FOR THE FILLING
8 ounces Medjool dates, pitted
1 cup boiling water
1¼ cups granulated sugar
¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon coarse salt
4 large eggs
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest, plus ¾ cup fresh juice (from 4 to 5 lemons)
1. Make the crust: Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and line with parchment, leaving a 2-inch overhang on 2 sides. Butter parchment. Whisk together flour, confectioners’ sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Work in butter with your fingertips until combined and mixture holds together when pinched. Press crust evenly into bottom of prepared pan. Freeze 15 minutes. Bake crust until light golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Make the filling: Meanwhile, in a heatproof bowl, soak dates in boiling water 15 minutes. Drain, reserving liquid. Puree dates in a food processor with enough soaking liquid (about ½ cup) to make a spreadable paste (about 1¼ cups).
3. While dates are soaking, whisk together the granulated sugar, flour, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk in eggs plus lemon zest and juice.
4. Spread date paste evenly over baked crust. Return to oven and bake 4 minutes. Reduce heat to 325°F, pour lemon filling over date layer, then bake until just set, about 20 minutes more. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool 20 minutes. Run a paring knife around edges, then lift bars from dish using parchment. Let cool completely. Dust with confectioners’ sugar. Cut into squares. (Bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 3 days.)
Chocolate Chip Cookie Brownies
MAKES 16
When you can’t decide between a cookie and a brownie, why not make both—in the same pan—for what we fondly refer to as the “brookie.” We dotted our cookie dough, streusel style, over brownie batter and then baked them together for a contrasting texture of cakey and fudgy layers.
FOR THE COOKIE DOUGH
1 stick (½ cup) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan
1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon baking powder
¾ teaspoon coarse salt
½ cup packed light brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
FOR THE BROWNIE BATTER
1 stick (½ cup) unsalted butter, cut into large pieces
6 ounces bitter-sweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1½ cups granulated sugar
3 large eggs, room temperature
¼ cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
½ teaspoon coarse salt
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1. Make the cookie dough: Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and line with parchment, leaving a 2-inch overhang on long sides. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.
2. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer on medium-high, beat butter and both sugars until pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes. With mixer on medium-low, beat in egg and vanilla. With mixer on low, gradually add flour mixture and beat until just incorporated. Stir in chocolate.
3. Make the brownie batter: In a medium heatproof bowl set over (not in) a pot of simmering water, melt butter and chocolate, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat; whisk in granulated sugar. Whisk in eggs, one at a time, until combined. Whisk in cocoa powder and salt. Fold in flour until combined.
4. Pour brownie batter into prepared pan, smoothing top with an offset spatula. Crumble cookie dough evenly over batter. Cover with parchment-lined foil; bake until just set, about 20 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until golden brown and a cake tester inserted into center (avoiding chocolate chunks) comes out with moist crumbs, 27 to 30 minutes more. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Lift brownies from pan using parchment; cut into 16 squares. (Brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days.)
Goose Feet
MAKES 14
Hailing from Russia, these pastry-like cookies are named for their folded shapes, which resemble webbed feet (gusinie lapki translates to “goose feet”). They’re flavored with orange zest and vanilla bean, and owe their light, flaky texture to a beloved Russian ingredient: farmer cheese. Made from cow’s milk, farmer cheese is lightly salted and has a mild tanginess. If you can’t find it, substitute cottage cheese.
1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup fresh farmer cheese
1 stick (½ cup) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped
1 heaping tablespoon finely grated orange zest (from 1 orange)
⅓ cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Coarse sanding sugar, for sprinkling
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt. In a large bowl, mix cheese, butter, vanilla, and orange zest with a wooden spoon until well combined. Add flour mixture to cheese mixture and stir until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Transfer dough to a piece of plastic wrap, shape into a disk, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate 1 hour.
2. Preheat oven to 350°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough to ⅛ inch thick. Using a 4-inch round cutter, cut out rounds. Gather dough scraps, reroll, and cut out more rounds.
3. Place granulated sugar in a wide shallow bowl. Working with one round at a time, brush with water, then dip in granulated sugar to coat. Fold round in half, covering sugar; fold in half again. Transfer cookies to 2 parchment-lined baking sheets. Brush tops with egg wash and sprinkle with coarse sanding sugar.
4. Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, until golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer sheets to wire racks and let cool completely. (Cookies are best eaten the day they are made.)
Plum-and-Blackberry Cornmeal-Almond Crumb Bars
MAKES 1 DOZEN
These crumbly bars taste like summertime, thanks to the abundance of seasonal fruit. For the best texture, choose your fruit wisely: Ripe plums are very juicy, without much structure, so use a sturdier plum with a lower moisture content, such as yellow-fleshed Italian prune plums, and combine them with another stone fruit or berries—like these plump, sweet blackberries. Taste-test your blackberries; if they’re tart, temper them with an equal amount of blueberries.
FOR THE CRUST
1 stick (½ cup) plus 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan
1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup coarse cornmeal
¾ teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup sugar
¼ cup blanched almonds, toasted (see this page) and coarsely chopped
FOR THE FILLING
12 ounces plums (about 6), preferably Italian prune variety, cut into a ½-inch dice (1¾ cups)
1 cup (4 ounces) fresh blackberries
⅔ cup sugar (or ½ cup, if plums are very sweet)
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
¼ teaspoon coarse salt
1. Make the crust: Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Line with parchment, leaving a 2-inch overhang on all sides; butter parchment. Whisk flour, cornmeal, and salt in a medium bowl.
2. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer on medium-high, beat butter with sugar until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl. With mixer on low, add flour mixture; beat until dough forms clumps but does not completely hold together. Press 3 cups of dough mixture into bottom and 1 inch up sides of prepared pan. Stir chopped almonds into remaining dough mixture.
3. Make the filling: Stir together plums, blackberries, sugar, flour, lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Pour into crust. Crumble remaining crust mixture over top, squeezing to create clumps. Bake until bubbling in center and crust is golden, 1 hour to 1 hour, 10 minutes (if browning too quickly, tent with foil after about 50 minutes). Let cool 1 hour. Lift bars from pan using parchment; let cool completely, about 2 hours. Cut into 12 squares. (Bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 3 days.)
Triple-Chocolate Brownie Cups
MAKES 6
Here’s everything you want in a brownie, in a convenient, cookie-like package: Nestled in a shallow paper baking cup, this brownie is a sinfully good combination of bittersweet chocolate and two kinds of chocolate chips. To make squares instead of cups, bake the batter in an 8-inch square pan, lined with buttered parchment, for 35 to 40 minutes; then cut into 2½-inch squares.
1 stick (½ cup) unsalted butter, cut into large pieces
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped (1 cup)
1½ cups sugar
3 large eggs
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
½ teaspoon coarse salt
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup (6 ounces) milk chocolate chips
1 cup (6 ounces) white chocolate chips
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place six 4-inch shallow paper baking cups on a baking sheet. In a heatproof bowl set over (not in) a pot of simmering water, melt butter and bittersweet chocolate, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in sugar. Whisk in eggs, one at a time, until combined. Whisk in cocoa powder and salt. Fold in flour until combined. Stir in both chocolate chips.
2. Fill cups three-quarters full with batter. Bake until set and a cake tester inserted into centers comes out with only a few moist crumbs attached, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. (Brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days.)
TIP
For a nutty version, stir ½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans into the batter with the chocolate chips.
No-Bake Chocolate Truffles
MAKES 70
More candy than cookie, perhaps, but who is going to complain if a batch of these scrumptious bites turns up on a cookie tray? We’re hooked on the little orbs of chocolate goodness. And they take no time to make—just whisk up some ganache, chill, and scoop. Finish by rolling the truffles in sprinkles, finely chopped nuts, or, as we did here, various unsweetened cocoa powders for a tone-on-tone display.
16 ounces dark or semisweet chocolate or a combination, finely chopped
1⅔ cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon coarse salt
Unsweetened cocoa powder, for rolling
1. Place chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, bring cream to a simmer over medium-high heat; then immediately pour over chocolate. Cover bowl with plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface, and let stand 10 minutes. Uncover and whisk chocolate mixture until smooth. Mix in vanilla and salt. Pour into a 9-inch pie plate and let cool 15 minutes. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until completely set, about 3 hours.
2. With a melon baller, a 1-inch scoop, or a teaspoon, scoop out chocolate mixture and place on a piece of parchment. Coat hands with cocoa powder and roll truffles into balls; place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Refrigerate until set, about 15 minutes. Roll in more cocoa powder just before serving or packing. (Truffles can be stored, covered with plastic and refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.)
TIP
To achieve an ombré effect, we rolled the truffles in different brands of unsweetened cocoa powders by color.
No-Bake Chocolate–Peanut Butter Cup Bars
MAKES SIXTEEN 2-INCH SQUARES
Think of this creamy no-bake candy bar as the classic peanut butter cup’s more savvy, more fashionable sister. To achieve the swirly heart designs, just dot the chocolate surface with spoonfuls of peanut-butter mixture and drag a skewer or toothpick through them. (For a more abstract look, see Apricot Cheesecake Bars, on this page.) To get the ultimate melt-in-your-mouth effect, use a smooth supermarket variety of peanut butter instead of a chunky or natural one.
Vegetable oil cooking spray
1 pound (1¾ cups) creamy peanut butter
1 stick (½ cup) plus 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
6 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1. Coat bottom and sides of an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking spray. Line bottom and 2 sides with parchment, leaving a 2-inch overhang. In a large bowl, stir together 1½ cups peanut butter, 1 stick (½ cup) butter, and the vanilla until smooth. Stir in confectioners’ sugar, ½ cup at a time, until smooth. Transfer to prepared pan; press with your hands to flatten and smooth top (if mixture is too sticky, dampen hands slightly).
2. Combine chocolate and 4 tablespoons butter in a heatproof bowl set over (not in) a pot of simmering water; stir with a rubber spatula until chocolate has melted and mixture is smooth. Remove bowl from heat and let cool slightly, stirring gently, about 3 minutes. Pour chocolate over peanut-butter mixture in baking pan, tilting pan to ensure chocolate spreads evenly across top.
3. In a small bowl, stir together remaining 2 tablespoons butter and remaining ¼ cup peanut butter until smooth. Let stand until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Drop ¼- to ¾-teaspoon rounds of mixture on top of chocolate in baking pan in 1-inch intervals. Drag the tip of a wooden skewer or toothpick quickly through center of each round to create a heart shape. Refrigerate until firm, at least 4 hours.
4. Run a paring knife along edges of pan on the 2 sides not lined with parchment. Lift cake from pan using parchment; cut into 2-inch bars. Serve cold. (Bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 5 days.)
Salted Caramel Whoopie Pies
MAKES ABOUT 10
Sweet, spicy, and salty: This whoopie pie has it all. Cinnamon and allspice infuse the cake rounds, while a caramel-enriched buttercream claims the middle ground. A rim of pink rock salt brings it all together—enhancing and unifying the flavors while tempering the sweetness.
2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
¾ teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
1 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup packed light brown sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
Caramel Buttercream (this page)
¾ teaspoon pink rock salt, such as Himalayan
2 tablespoons coarse sanding sugar
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, coarse salt, cinnamon, and allspice. In another medium bowl, combine milk and vanilla.
2. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer on high, beat butter with granulated and brown sugars until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add egg and beat until pale, about 2 minutes. With mixer on low, add flour mixture in 2 batches, alternating with milk mixture. Beat on medium-high until just combined, about 10 seconds. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a ⅝-inch round tip (such as Ateco #808).
3. Pipe 2½-inch-diameter mounds onto 3 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing about 3 inches apart (no more than 8 per sheet). Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, until cookies spring back when lightly pressed, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer sheets to wire racks and let cool completely.
4. Transfer buttercream to a pastry bag fitted with the ⅝-inch round tip. Pipe 2 tablespoons onto flat sides of half of cookies, then sandwich with remaining cookies. Refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes.
5. In a small bowl, stir together rock salt and sanding sugar. Roll edges of sandwiches in sugar-salt mixture. (Whoopie pies can be refrigerated in airtight containers up to 3 days.)
Walnut-and-Honey Baklava
MAKES ABOUT 40 PIECES
The many buttered layers of phyllo dough, walnut filling, and sweet syrup make baklava the ultimate special-occasion dessert in Greece. Cutting it into a pretty pattern turns it into cookie-like bites. We used Greek honey in this recipe; it’s dense, aromatic, and well worth seeking out. We use butter, too, but many Greek cooks use olive oil, which is a carryover from the days when butter was more of a precious (and therefore expensive) commodity.
4 cups walnut halves
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
1¾ cups sugar
½ cup honey, preferably Greek
2½ sticks (1¼ cups) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for brushing
28 sheets phyllo (from a 1½-pound package), thawed if frozen
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. In a food processor, pulse walnuts, cinnamon, and ½ cup sugar until finely ground.
2. In a saucepan over medium-high, bring 1 cup water and remaining 1¼ cups sugar to a boil. Immediately reduce to a simmer; cook until slightly thickened and sugar is dissolved, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in honey. Let syrup cool completely.
3. Brush a 2-inch-deep, 12-inch round cake pan with butter. Trim each phyllo sheet into a 13-inch round (cover with plastic wrap and a damp towel as you work). Carefully layer 7 phyllo sheets in pan, brushing butter between each layer. (Since the edges dry out before the center, brush on butter from the edges inward.) Sprinkle one-third of nut mixture over top. Repeat process twice more, brushing butter between each layer. Top with remaining 7 phyllo sheets, brushing butter between each layer.
4. Generously brush top layer with butter. Using a sharp knife with a very thin blade (such as a boning knife), cut baklava into quarters, cutting through all phyllo layers. Halve each quarter to create 8 equal wedges. Working within one wedge at a time, make 2 straight cuts, 1 inch apart, parallel to one side of wedge. Make 2 more cuts, parallel to opposite side of same wedge, creating a diamond pattern.
5. Bake until deep golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven and pour syrup over baklava. Let cool completely before serving. (Baklava can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days or in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks.)
TIP
Make sure your hands are dry when working with phyllo. The dough will become gummy and unmanageable if it gets wet.
Brown-Butter Coconut-Cashew Blondies
MAKES ABOUT 1 DOZEN
Even if you’re a brownie devotee, these bars might just convince you that blondes really do have more fun. They get their depth of flavor from nutty brown butter and brown sugar; cashews and coconut add dimension to the batter and a delightful, toasted crunch on top.
1¼ cups (2½ sticks) unsalted butter, plus more for pan
2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for pan
2 cups packed light brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs
2½ teaspoons vanilla extract
1½ teaspoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons coarse salt
1 cup whole cashews, toasted (see this page), plus ½ cup halved cashews
2 cups sweetened shredded coconut, toasted (see Tip)
½ cup unsweetened coconut flakes
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Line bottom with parchment, leaving a 2-inch overhang on long sides. Butter and flour parchment.
2. In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, melt butter and cook, swirling pan occasionally, until golden brown and fragrant, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl; let cool. Add both sugars and stir until combined. Add eggs and vanilla; beat to combine. Add flour, baking powder, salt, toasted cashews, and shredded coconut. Mix until thoroughly combined. Pour mixture into prepared pan, smoothing top with an offset spatula. Scatter cashew halves and coconut flakes evenly over top.
3. Bake until a cake tester inserted in the center just comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes; tent with aluminum foil halfway through if topping is browning too quickly. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. Lift blondies from pan using parchment; let cool completely on rack. Transfer to a cutting board and cut blondies into 3-inch squares. (Blondies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.)
TIP
To toast coconut, spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake at 350°F, stirring halfway through, until golden, 9 to 10 minutes. Let cool completely.
Papillons
MAKES ABOUT 28
Living up to its namesake, the papillon (French for “butterfly”) is shaped into ethereal “wings.” Caramelized and tender, and made with just sugar and a multitude of flaky puff pastry (pâte feuilletée) layers, it is one of our favorite cookies. The puff pastry’s butter content is key to the papillon’s flavor, so it’s best to avoid any pastry that is made with oil.
1 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling and dipping
1 pound frozen puff pastry (preferably all butter), thawed
1. Sprinkle ½ cup sugar on a work surface. Place puff pastry on top of sugar and sprinkle evenly with remaining ½ cup sugar; press to adhere. Roll out to a 12-by-16-inch rectangle, approximately ⅛ inch thick.
2. Position pastry with a long side parallel to the edge of work surface. Fold each of the long sides of dough toward middle to meet without overlapping. Sprinkle lightly with about 2 tablespoons sugar. Fold one short side over to meet opposite short side. Sprinkle with about 1 tablespoon sugar. Finally, fold one long side in half to meet opposing long side. Coat with about 1 tablespoon sugar. Using your hands, press down firmly on dough; wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour and preferably overnight.
3. Preheat oven to 450°F. Spritz 2 baking sheets with water. Place more sugar in a shallow bowl. Trim ends of chilled dough and slice crosswise into ¾-inch-thick slices. Dip cut sides of slices in sugar and transfer to baking sheets, spacing 3 inches apart.
4. Bake until sugar is caramelized and golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Using a wide spatula, carefully flip each cookie, rotate sheets, then return to oven and continue to bake until deep golden brown, about 6 minutes more. Transfer papillons to wire racks and let cool completely. Repeat with remaining slices. (Papillons are best eaten the day they are made, but can be stored between sheets of parchment in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days.)
TIP
Spraying water on the cookie sheet helps hold the puff pastry in place and keeps the cookies from sticking.
Apricot Cheesecake Bars
MAKES 2 DOZEN
Slightly tart apricot is an ideal foil for this creamy cheesecake. It also gives you the opportunity to try a painterly approach to baking. After adding dollops of fresh apricot compote to the cheesecake batter, use a chopstick, skewer, or the thin blade of a knife in shallow back-and-forth motions, figure eights, and loose spirals to make lovely decorative patterns.
18 graham crackers
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
Coarse salt
1 stick (½ cup) unsalted butter, melted
10 ounces fresh apricots (about 4), halved, pitted, and cut into eighths
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 packages (8 ounces each) cream cheese, room temperature
½ cup sour cream, room temperature
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large eggs, room temperature, lightly beaten
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. In a food processor, process graham crackers, 2 tablespoons sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt until fine crumbs form. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in melted butter until crumbs are moistened. Wipe processor bowl clean. With a flat-bottomed 1-cup measure or glass, press the crumbs evenly into a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Bake until crust is firm, about 15 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. Reduce heat to 325°F.
2. In a small saucepan, bring apricots, ¼ cup sugar, and a pinch of salt to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until mixture is shiny, about 10 minutes. In food processor, puree apricot mixture, lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon water.
3. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer on medium, beat cream cheese and sour cream until smooth. Add remaining ¾ cup sugar and beat until smooth. Add vanilla and a pinch of salt; beat to combine. Add eggs and beat until smooth, scraping down bowl as needed. Pour cream cheese mixture into crust and smooth top, using an offset spatula.
4. Randomly drop small spoonfuls of apricot puree onto cream cheese mixture. With a skewer or thin-bladed knife, gently swirl puree. Bake just until set, about 25 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool slightly, then refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours. Cut into 24 squares. (Cheesecake bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.)
Whoopie Hearts
MAKES 2 DOZEN
These heartfelt whoopie pies are created with a simple V shape: Start by piping the chocolate batter into a three-inch diagonal line downward, then pipe another one to meet it. They bake up into billowy hearts, which we filled with a layer of raspberry-tinted Swiss meringue for just a little extra love.
¾ cup frozen raspberries
3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1½ cups unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 cups sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups buttermilk, room temperature
Swiss Meringue Filling (this page)
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Thaw raspberries in a sieve set over a bowl; press to extract ¼ cup juice. Reserve juice for Swiss meringue filling (discard fruit).
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, salt, cocoa powder, baking soda, and baking powder. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer on medium, beat butter and sugar until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs and vanilla. Beat until well combined. Add flour mixture in 2 additions, alternating with buttermilk. Mix until combined.
3. To create heart shapes, form the letter V: Transfer batter to a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch round tip (such as Ateco #806). Pipe a 3-inch diagonal line downward, onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Pipe another one to meet it. (The tops are about 3 inches wide; see this page for piping directions.) Bake until cookies spring back when lightly touched with finger, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Repeat with remaining batter.
4. Assemble whoopie pies: Add reserved raspberry juice to Swiss meringue filling and stir to combine. Transfer filling to another pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch round tip. Pipe filling onto flat sides of half the cookies, then sandwich with remaining cookies. (Whoopie pies can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 3 days.)
TIP
Keep the pastry bag stable while filling it by placing it inside a tall container.
PERFECTING
BROWNIES
Everyone loves brownies, but some like these chocolatey squares rich and dense, while others prefer a chewy center, and still others favor a lighter, cakey crumb. How does a baker get it just right? Fudgy brownies have a higher fat-to-flour ratio than cakey ones, so add more fat—in this case, butter and chocolate. A cakey batch has more flour and relies on baking powder for leavening. And adding a bit of oil along with butter in the batter results in a brownie with an addictively chewy texture. See the recipes that follow to get an idea of the ratios needed to achieve your ideal brownie.
Cakey Brownies
MAKES NINE 3-INCH SQUARES
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into large pieces, plus more for pan
4 ounces bitter-sweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1½ cups sugar
3 large eggs
¼ cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
½ teaspoon coarse salt
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon baking powder
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch square baking pan. Line with parchment, leaving a slight overhang on 2 sides; butter parchment.
2. In a medium heatproof bowl set over (not in) a pot of simmering water, melt butter and chocolate, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in sugar. Whisk in eggs, one at a time, until combined. Whisk in cocoa powder and salt. Fold in flour and baking powder until combined. Pour batter into prepared pan, smoothing top with spatula.
3. Bake until set and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, about 30 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool, about 15 minutes. Lift brownies from pan using parchment; remove parchment. Transfer brownies to wire rack and let cool completely. Cut into 9 squares. (Brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 days.)
Fudgy Brownies
MAKES NINE 3-INCH SQUARES
1 stick (½ cup) unsalted butter, cut into large pieces, plus more for pan
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1½ cups sugar
3 large eggs
¼ cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
½ teaspoon coarse salt
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch square baking pan. Line with parchment, leaving a slight overhang on 2 sides; butter parchment.
2. In a medium heatproof bowl set over (not in) a pot of simmering water, melt butter and chocolate, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in sugar. Whisk in eggs, one at a time, until combined. Whisk in cocoa and salt. Fold in flour until combined. Pour batter into prepared pan, smoothing top with spatula.
3. Bake until set and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool slightly, about 15 minutes. Lift brownies from pan using parchment; remove parchment. Transfer brownies to wire rack and let cool completely. Cut into 9 squares. (Brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 days.)
Chewy Brownies
MAKES SIXTEEN 2¼-INCH SQUARES
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon coarse salt
7 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
3 tablespoons safflower or coconut oil
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup packed light brown sugar
3 large eggs, room temperature
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch square baking pan. Line with parchment, leaving a slight overhang on 2 sides; butter parchment.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt. In a medium heatproof bowl set over (not in) a pot of simmering water, melt chocolate and butter with oil. Remove from heat. Add both sugars and whisk 10 seconds. Add eggs and whisk vigorously until glossy and smooth, 45 seconds. Using a rubber spatula, stir in dry ingredients. Pour batter evenly into prepared pan, smoothing top with spatula.
3. Bake until set and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool, about 15 minutes. Lift brownies from pan using parchment; remove parchment. Transfer brownies to wire rack and let cool completely. Cut into 16 squares. (Brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 days.)
● Don’t scrimp on the chocolate—it’s the core flavor in brownies. Choose the best quality you can find, such as Valrhona or Guittard with at least 61% cacao in bittersweet.
● To achieve a shiny, crackled top crust, whisk the eggs into the batter until glossy.
● Scraping down the sides of the bowl when adding the flour prevents white flour pockets or streaks.
● Add toasted nuts, such as walnuts or pecans, or chocolate chunks to the batter just after incorporating the flour.
● Butter the parchment. You can “flour” it with Dutch-process cocoa powder, which gives a nice chocolate flavor to the brownies’ edges.
● Use small metal binder clips to fasten the parchment paper to the sides of the pan. This allows you to more easily pour in the brownie mixture, and, if you’re using a convection oven, it will prevent the parchment from blowing around as air circulates while baking.
● Sprinkle flaky salt, such as Maldon, on top of the batter just before baking for a truly sweet-and-salty treat.
● Let the brownies cool completely before removing from the pan and cutting into squares. (Don’t cut the brownies in the pan to avoid scratching its bottom.)
