serves 2
For years, Daniel and I harbored a small jar with one homemade preserved lemon bobbing along in it. Because Daniel had made it himself, we had neither the heart to eat it (it was the last one) nor throw it out.
Of course the minute after I finally did toss it out in a flurry of obsessive fridge cleaning, I regretted it. Preserved lemons, if you actually use them, can be a culinary treasure. They are one of those secret seasonings that makes everything you use them in taste better—brighter, more intense, and more aromatic.
So I bought a new jar. Then, as soon as I got home, I immediately pureed those cute, whole little lemons (taking out the seeds first) in the food processor and covered them with a bit of olive oil. That way whenever I wanted a little of that musky, zesty, earthy complexity that preserved lemons bring, I could just spoon some out and drop it into the pan or bowl or plate without having to stop and chop (though you could mince it up as needed if you like).
In this buoyant, tangy scallop dish, I added a dollop of the salty yellow paste to a pan of buttery scallops and chopped juicy tomato. The lemon brightened the flavors and added that extra-special layer of fermented flavor that plain citrus fruit just doesn’t have. Served with noodles or couscous to soak up the buttery sauce, this recipe was about as simple as can be—instant gratification that took several years to puzzle out.
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 pound sea scallops, patted dry
1 medium tomato, cored and chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped or pureed preserved lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the scallops, tomato, lemon, and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until the scallops are just opaque, about 2 minutes. Season with additional salt, if needed, and pepper. Serve over pasta, if desired.