perfect for two

Wilted collard greens with lemon and extra-virgin olive oil

serves 2 to 4

This is collard greens in their most pure and delicate manifestation, without ham hocks or hot sauce or chile or garlic to distract you from their sweet, grassy flavor. The greens are blanched in salted water, drained, and dressed simply, with olive oil, lemon juice, and salt—just enough to bring out their fresh taste without covering it up under the assumption that, in fact, you don’t really like collard greens at all and you are just eating them for the meat and condiments they are cooked with.

If you meet this closet collard-hating criteria, this recipe isn’t for you.

But if you love the taste of all things green, this will become a standard in your repertoire as it has in mine. I especially like to make it to accompany a highly seasoned stew or pasta dish; the mellowness acts as a great foil for spicy, intense flavors. However, if you eat the collards alone and find them on the bland side, no one is going to stop you from brandishing the hot sauce bottle or adding some crumbled feta and kalamatas to the bowl. The good thing about having your own kitchen, Julia Child supposedly said after she dropped a chicken on the floor, is that nobody can see what you are doing. Hail to that.

Kosher salt, to taste

1 large bunch collard greens, stems removed and leaves torn into pieces

2 tablespoons good olive oil, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to taste

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the collard greens and let wilt. Cook until the leaves are soft enough to please you, 2 to 7 minutes depending on the age of the greens and your desire for tenderness.

2. Drain the collards and press out as much water as you can with a large spoon or a spatula. Put the greens in a bowl and toss with the oil, lemon juice, and salt to taste. Adjust the seasonings to taste.