Antoni in the Kitchen

This egg sammie may look like any other egg sandwich out there, but it’s got a special something that makes it extra-delicious and very Aussie: Vegemite. A thick dark-brown yeast paste that’s packed with nutrients (‘for vitality’, the packet says, and many doctors agree it’s one of the world’s richest sources of B vitamins and more), the umami spread is an Aussie toast classic that also finds its way into many other dishes. Its salty, malty and slightly meat-smoky notes balance the richness of the avocado and eggs here, while seasoning the dish with a flavour that’s at once familiar (the salty part) and unique (the meaty-malty part). Quick, easy, super-satisfying and healthy, this sammie is both breakfast and dinner in my home.

Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. One at a time, crack the eggs into the frying pan. Cook until the oil begins to pop and bubble at the edges of the eggs, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, cover the frying pan, and continue cooking until the whites are fully set and the edges are golden brown, about 1½ minutes more.

Meanwhile, smear the toast with the butter and then the Vegemite or Marmite. Top with the avocado and then the greens.

Top the sandwiches with the warm fried eggs and, using the tines of a fork, scrape the egg yolks a bit, just until they start to run. Sprinkle with the red chilli flakes and salt. Serve immediately.

Tip

Marmite is Vegemite’s British cousin, and though the Brits and Aussies argue about which one is king, a side-by-side taste test is the best way to gauge your fave. I tend to reach for Vegemite, but you can use them interchangeably here.

French Omelette

WITH CHEESE + CHIVES

I’m not one to shy away from a good American omelette, where the eggs are fully cooked and often browned along the edges – the kind you find in diners and brunch spots across the country. But the moment I learned how to make a true French omelette – the delicate, slightly wet sort that’s more like a soft, warm pillow – I learned what omelette dreams are really made of. This dish easily becomes a complete meal if served alongside your favourite salad. Whether you’re cooking for yourself on a weeknight or want to impress a date the morning after, it’s as easygoing as it is romantic.

Buy the very best eggs you can for this dish, opting for farm fresh from your local farmers’ market if you can. You deserve to know what this tastes like when the yolks are rich in both colour (deep orange, not Peep-yellow, is what you’re looking for) and flavour, as those purchased locally most often are.

Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl until well combined and smooth, taking care not to whip in much air. The point is to combine the yolks and whites very well.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a 20cm (8in) non-stick frying pan over medium-low heat until the butter has melted and just begins to foam. Pour in the eggs. Working quickly, gently move the pan in a circular motion over the heat (this will keep the eggs moving and evenly cooking) while you use a small rubber spatula in your other hand to stir the eggs in a loose figure-eight pattern to create small curds, scraping down the side of the frying pan as you go. Continue until the eggs are mostly cooked through but just a little runny on top, 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and sprinkle the omelette (now it can be called one!) with a pinch of salt, then sprinkle the cheese down the centre of the exposed egg. Gently shake the pan so that the omelette shifts towards the side of the pan opposite the handle and up the side of the pan. The part of the omelette above the edge of the pan should fold over on itself – use your rubber spatula to give it a hand, if it doesn’t. Slide 1 tablespoon butter underneath the omelette that’s still in the pan. (This will help keep the omelette tender and soft – and it tastes really good.)

Using the spatula, roll up the omelette, then flip it seam side down onto a warm serving plate. Slide the remaining dab of butter (½ tablespoon) across the top, then sprinkle with a pinch each of salt and pepper and the chives. Serve hot.

Tip

A French omelette is said to be 10 per cent ingredients and 90 per cent technique. If you fail at your first attempt to make this recipe, ne t’inquiète pas (don’t worry!), as we say en français; you’ll simply have a lovely pan of scrambled eggs on your hands. And once you’ve mastered it, you can try all kinds of good variations, adding things like cooked spinach, crispy mushrooms and the like.

Chickpea Masala

My best friend Arjun, who lived two doors down from us when I was a kid, had the luxury of a private chef who prepared incredibly delicious Indian food. I’d often sneak in an early after-school dinner at his house before going home. With just a few basic items, you can put together this bowl of chickpea goodness from that part of the world.

Heat the oil and butter in a Casserole or other wide heavy saucepan over medium-low heat until the butter is melted. Add the onions, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the spices and 1 teaspoon salt.

Add the tomatoes, with their juices, and 125ml water. Using a large wooden spoon, break up the tomatoes, then add the chickpeas and use the spoon to mash about a quarter of them. Stir in the apricots, increase the heat to high, and bring just to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 18 to 22 minutes. Adjust the salt and remove from the heat.

Serve the masala hot, with the coriander and red onion sprinkled over the top and the lime wedges on the side. Dollop with yoghurt and serve with rice, if desired.

Tip

Dried apricots, while not classic, lend a welcome tang and touch of sweetness.

Rainy-Day Grilled Cheese

WITH PROSCIUTTO + EASY TOMATO BISQUE

This old-school pairing has turned many a long, rough day for me into bliss at first bite. Adding prosciutto to the sandwich and a sprinkling of sumac to the soup is my way of elevating the classic (you can use lemon zest if you don’t have sumac). If you’re a good planner, the soup can be made ahead, and then it’s just a quick warm-up and 10 minutes to make the sandwiches.

For the bisque: In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, with their liquid. Using a wooden spoon, break up the tomatoes, then add the stock and 1 teaspoon salt, increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, stirring once or twice. Remove the pan from the heat.

Using a regular blender or immersion blender, carefully puree the hot soup (in batches if necessary) until creamy and smooth. Return to the pan if you used a regular blender. Stir in the cream and sumac or lemon zest. Adjust the seasoning to taste. Cover to keep warm.

For the grilled cheese: Spread the mayo on one side of each bread slice. (This both flavours the sandwich and serves as a nice binder for the cheese.) Sprinkle about half of the cheese on 4 of the bread slices. Lay 1 prosciutto slice over each cheese-sprinkled bread slice, then top with the remaining cheese. Top with the remaining bread slices, mayo side down.

In a large frying pan, melt 30g butter over medium heat. Add 2 sandwiches. Gently press down with a slightly smaller flat pan lid or a large metal spatula to help brown the sammies and get the cheese nice and melty. Flip when the bottom is browned, 2 to 3 minutes, and continue cooking until the other side is golden, 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer the grilled cheeses to a wire rack and repeat with the remaining butter and sandwiches.

Cut the sandwiches in half on a diagonal, because that is the only way to cut a sandwich and I will not hear otherwise. Serve alongside the tomato bisque, which you’ve just garnished with torn fresh basil and pepper, if desired. Don’t forget to dip!

Tip

Leave your cheese in the fridge until you’re ready to grate so that it stays cold. This works especially well for cheeses like cheddar that tend to easily crumble and get a bit pasty if they’re at room temp when grated.

Butter Beans and Tuna

IN TANGY TOMATO SAUCE

This dish is like that friend who fits into any social situation. It’s a ten-minute, super-satisfying, one-pan store-cupboard meal. Serve it for lunch or a light supper, or as a snack with crackers. Or make it without the tuna to include as part of a spread. Butter beans are probably my favourite legume – decadent, creamy and oversized, they hold up well in the rich tomato sauce. Do use the celery leaves if you can: they wake up all the flavours.

In a small frying pan, whisk together the tomato paste and oil and heat over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the oil is bubbling and the tomato paste begins to break down, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the dill, oregano, lemon juice and honey, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring constantly, until the flavours come together, 3 to 5 minutes. (The oil will remain slightly separated; this is OK.) Remove from the heat and let stand until slightly cooled, about 3 minutes.

In a bowl, gently stir together the sauce, beans, tuna, ½ teaspoon flaky salt or ¼ teaspoon kosher salt and a generous pinch of pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl, drizzle with oil and top with a generous pinch of salt and the celery leaves, if using. Enjoy on its own or with your favourite crackers.

Tip

This recipe comes together lightning fast, so make sure to have all of your ingredients ready to go when you begin preparing it.

Farro Bowl

WITH SWEET POTATOES, ARUGULA + CHICKEN

During my days as assistant to Ted Allen and his husband, Barry, I tended to a wide variety of business, including preparing lunches. Ted will tell you that this dish remains his favourite of all the things I ever made for him. The idea sprang from my desire to cut ties with quinoa (delicious, but omnipresent at the time) and create a dish that could be noshed on long after I had gone for the day. The key here, for maximum weeknight enjoyment, is to do your meal prep ahead and have the mixed chicken, sweet potato and farro base, as well as the accompaniments, in the fridge, as I did for Ted and Barry. Then you can put a bowl together in mere minutes when you want it.

Put the sweet potatoes on a baking tray and toss with 2 tablespoons of the oil, the chilli powder, cayenne and ¼ teaspoon salt. Spread the potatoes out in a single layer, leaving space between them (this will help make them crispy), and roast until the undersides are golden, 15 to 18 minutes. Toss with a spatula and continue roasting until crispy all over, 8 to 10 minutes more. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to warm or room temperature.

Meanwhile, fill a medium saucepan halfway with water (about 2 litres). Bring to a boil, then add the farro, vinegar, bay leaves and 1½ teaspoons salt and cook until the farro is al dente (tender, but with a nice bite), 20 to 35 minutes, depending on the variety. (Follow the cooking time on the packet.)

Meanwhile, pat the chicken dry and season with ½ teaspoon salt. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook, undisturbed, until lightly golden on the underside, 5 to 7 minutes. Flip and continue cooking until cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes more. Add the lemon juice to the frying pan and let cook for 1 minute more, then remove the pan from the heat. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board, reserving the pan juices, and let rest for 5 minutes, then cut into 2cm (¾in) cubes.

Drain the cooked farro, spread on a large plate or baking tray, and let cool to warm or room temp.

In a large bowl, gently toss together the farro, sweet potatoes, chicken, the reserved pan juices and the coriander or mint. Spoon the mixture into large serving bowls. Top each with a heap of rocket, a sprinkle of almonds and lemon zest, a spoonful of yoghurt, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and salt to taste.

Tip

You can buy quick-cook farro that is quite good and ready in half the time it takes to cook the semipearled or pearled varieties you find in most other markets.

Crispy-Skin Salmon

WITH HORSERADISH CREAM SAUCE

Salmon is one of the most popular fish, but its delicious and nutrient-rich skin is underappreciated. This technique cooks the flesh perfectly with a contrasting crisp skin that crackles with good fats and a rich, somewhat smoky flavour. I enjoy the fish first and save the crisp part for last.

75g grated fresh or thoroughly drained (excess liquid squeezed out) prepared white horseradish

4 (150 to 175g) very fresh skin-on salmon fillets, preferably centre-cut, 2 to 2.5cm (¾ to 1in) thick at the thickest part

For the horseradish cream sauce: In a bowl, stir together all the ingredients plus 1 tablespoon water. Adjust the salt and cayenne to taste (you can also add more horseradish, if you want extra kick). Cover and chill until ready to use. (The sauce can be made up to 1 day ahead.)

Gently pat the salmon fillets between double layers of kitchen paper to thoroughly dry on both sides. Season the fish all over with 1 teaspoon salt, then dust the skin side with flour, removing any excess with the back of a clean dry spoon.

In a large frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add 2 salmon fillets, skin side down. Using a metal spatula, press down on the fillets (move your spatula as needed to press on all of the fillets; this will keep the skin from curling and ensure an even crisp). Continue pressing, without checking on or moving the fillets (yes, this is the patience part!), until the fat is rendered from the skin and the skin is crispy, 6 to 7 minutes. Turn the fillets and cook on the flesh side for 30 seconds to 2 minutes (a quick ‘kiss’, as chefs say), depending on thickness, for medium-rare. Transfer the fish to a baking tray and keep warm in the oven. Wipe out the frying pan with a couple of kitchen paper pieces and repeat with the remaining tablespoon of oil and fish.

Tip

A fish spatula is worth owning. Its springy, flexible blade allows you to press evenly on fillets or steaks without applying too much pressure and easily sneaks between the pan and anything that’s delicate, so there’s less chance of tearing all that crackly goodness you’ve worked to achieve.

Blackened Swordfish

WITH POLENTA “HUSHPUPPIES” + ROASTED TOMATOES

During my few years living in West Virginia when I was a teenager, good seafood was hard to come by. You can imagine my family’s delight when we discovered a market-style restaurant in the heart of the state’s capital, Charleston, where one of the specialities was blackened swordfish steak with golden fried hushpuppies and honey butter. My rendition is easier and healthier, since the polenta is ready-made and the ‘hushpuppies’ are baked, not fried, and topped with juicy burst tomatoes.

Heat the oven to 230°C/450°F/gas 8. Let the fish stand at room temperature for 10 to 20 minutes to take the chill off.

Put the polenta on a baking tray and gently toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil and ¼ teaspoon salt. Arrange the polenta in a single layer on one side of the baking tray. Brush the tops with the butter mixture. Roast for 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, toss the tomatoes with 1 tablespoon oil and ⅛ teaspoon salt.

Remove the baking tray from the oven. Arrange the tomatoes on the empty side, return the pan to the oven, and roast until the polenta is lightly golden and the tomatoes are golden and beginning to burst, 16 to 18 minutes.

Meanwhile, pat the fish dry with kitchen paper, then sprinkle all over with the blackened seasoning and a generous pinch of salt.

Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a very large frying pan over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Place the swordfish in the pan and cook, without disturbing it, until the underside is golden, about 4 minutes. Turn the fish and cook until opaque and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes more.

Arrange the fish, polenta hushpuppies and burst tomatoes on serving plates. Sprinkle with the basil and serve.

Tip

You could also try equally meaty options such as red, grey or tub gurnard fillets. Remember to adjust the cooking time, as smaller fish fillets will cook faster.

Fish Tacos

WITH CHIPOTLE MAYO

On a family trip to Hawaii a few years back, my stepbrother Shimon requested fish tacos one night. We had a piece of mahi-mahi that was so fresh that I couldn’t bear to fry it, so I opted for pan-cooking it instead. The lighter, cleaner and super-flavourful result has made the technique my go-to for fish tacos. I keep the slaw and mayo uncomplicated.

1 teaspoon finely chopped tinned chipotle chilli in adobo, plus 1 teaspoon of the adobo sauce, or to taste

450g flaky white fish fillets, such as mahi-mahi, cod, hake or pollack, about 1cm (½in) thick

Optional toppings: Hot sauce, thinly sliced spring onions, thinly sliced radishes and/or pickled jalapeños, shop-bought or homemade (page 184)

Grate 1 teaspoon zest from 1 lime, then cut the lime in half. Squeeze 1 tablespoon juice into a small bowl. Set the other lime half aside.

Stir the zest, mayo, chipotle chilli, adobo sauce and ⅛ teaspoon salt into the bowl with the juice. Taste to make sure the sauce has a nice kick but isn’t overwhelming, and adjust accordingly.

In a medium bowl, toss together the cabbage, coriander, vinegar, celery seeds, ½ teaspoon salt, a generous pinch of pepper and 3 tablespoons of the chipotle mayo to combine well. Cover with cling film, pressing the cling film against the slaw to seal out the air and speed up the marinating process.

In a large non-stick frying pan, heat the butter and oil over medium-high heat until the butter melts. Add the fish and cook until the bottom is lightly golden, about 4 minutes. Flip and continue cooking, breaking up the fish into chunks, until it is opaque and beginning to flake, 6 to 8 minutes. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt, then squeeze the reserved lime half over the top. Remove the pan from the heat.

Line a plate or small basket with a clean cloth napkin or tea towel. In a large frying pan set over medium heat, heat the tortillas in batches, turning occasionally, until they puff and are golden in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the warm tortillas to the prepared plate as you go and wrap them in the napkin to keep them warm and pliable. (Alternatively, you can make two stacks of tortillas, wrap them in foil, and warm in a low oven.)

To serve the tacos, cut the remaining lime into wedges. Smear about 1 teaspoon of the chipotle mayo over each tortilla. Place a few nuggets of fish on top. Top the tacos with the slaw and fresh coriander sprigs. Squeeze the lime wedges over the top. Serve the tacos immediately, passing any of the optional toppings at the table.

Tip

I’m a big fan of using a mandoline (or plastic V-slicer) for getting a paper-thin slice on the cabbage for this slaw. The delicate strands not only taste sweeter, they also wilt to become a slaw more quickly when cut that way. Keep your attention as sharp as your blade when using this tool (no texting and driving, please!), and be sure to use the safety guard.

Smoky Chicken Skillet Fajitas

My Queer Eye castmates Tan and Jonathan would never let me get away without including this recipe, which I’d often cook after a long shoot day together. Charred peppers and onion, zesty lime chicken strips and quick-pickled jalapeños converge in a fresh, satisfying dish. The photo is on pages 182–183.

1 large or 2 medium jalapeño or serrano chillies, cut into 5mm (¼in) thick slices

675g boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut crossways into 1cm (½in) thick slices

Optional toppings: Greek yoghurt or sour cream, cubed avocado, crumbled feta cheese, salsa fresca, thinly sliced spring onions and/or chopped fresh coriander

For the pickled jalapeños: In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, sugar and a generous pinch of salt. Stir in the jalapeños. Set aside for at least 30 minutes.

For the fajitas: In a large bowl, stir together the lime zest, 60ml of the lime juice, 60ml of the oil, the smoked paprika, chilli powder and 2 teaspoons salt. Add the chicken and stir to coat. If you have time, let the chicken marinate at room temp for 30 minutes or chill for up to 2 hours. Let the chicken come to room temp before cooking, if it’s been in the fridge.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large heavy frying pan over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the poblanos and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables begin to blister and blacken along the edges, 12 to 15 minutes. Stir in the garlic and a pinch of salt and cook for 1 minute. Stir in 60ml water and the remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice. Cook until the liquid is mostly evaporated, then transfer to a bowl. Set the frying pan aside. Wipe out the frying pan.

Meanwhile, line a plate or small basket with a clean cloth napkin or tea towel. In a large frying pan set over medium heat, heat the tortillas in batches, turning occasionally, until they puff and are golden in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the warm tortillas to the prepared plate as you go and wrap them in the napkin to keep them warm and pliable. (Alternatively, you can wrap the tortillas together in foil and warm in a low oven.)

Drain the chicken from the marinade and transfer to a plate. Return the frying pan you used for the veg to medium-high heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil and heat until hot. Add the chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. Return the poblanos and onion to the frying pan, add a pinch of salt and stir to combine everything. Remove from the heat.

Drain the pickled chillies, discarding the brine. Dollop a little yoghurt or sour cream, if using, on the tortillas, then top with the fajita mixture, pickled chillies, and any additional toppings you like. Squeeze lime wedges over the top and serve.

Tip

A dollop of Greek yoghurt takes the subtle heat down a notch. The quick-pickled chillies are easy and fun to make, but if you’re pressed for time, you can use tinned or jarred.

Chicken Milanese

WITH BABY TOMATO SALAD

The more I learn about food, the more I see dishes that are repeated across cultures. Take Southern fried chicken, for example. Its Italian counterpart is a thinly pounded boneless escalope, with fairly similar basic ingredients. It skips the brining and messy cooking process, but you still end up with a nice plate of crispy, juicy meat. I long for this dish all year long, using a mix of local heirloom tomatoes in the summer and sweet cherry or Kumato tomatoes during the cooler months.

675g chicken escalopes or boneless, skinless chicken breasts, butterflied and very gently pounded, if necessary, into 5mm (¼in) thick escalopes (see Tip)

300g Sungold, cherry or Kumato tomatoes, cut into halves or quarters if using Kumatos

In a large bowl, combine the shallot or red onion, lemon juice and ¼ teaspoon salt. Let stand while you prepare the chicken. (This will soften the bite of the shallot or onion and quickly pickle it.)

In a large shallow bowl, beat the eggs with 1 teaspoon salt and a generous pinch of pepper. In a second large shallow bowl, mix together the panko and Parm. One by one, dip the escalopes in the egg, letting the excess drip off, then gently press into the panko mixture to coat on all sides, and transfer to a large plate. Set a cooling rack on a baking tray and place near the oven.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan (not non-stick) over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Fry the escalopes in two or three batches, turning once, until golden brown and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Drain on the prepared rack and, while they’re still hot, season them generously with salt. Then transfer the escalopes to the baking tray and place in the oven to keep warm while you wrap up the batches.

For the salad: Whisk the oil into the lemon-shallot mixture. Add the tomatoes, rocket, parsley, basil, pistachios and a generous pinch of cracked pepper to the bowl and gently toss to combine.

Arrange the escalopes on serving plates. Mound handfuls of the salad on top and/or the side. Squeeze the lemon wedges over and serve.

Tip

The quickest way to a chicken escalope is to get them already prepared, but if you want to save a few bucks, you can buy boneless, skinless breasts and butterfly the meat into escalopes yourself. You need a good sharp knife (I also recommend a heavy plastic cutting board that can be washed/sanitized in the dishwasher). Then it’s just a matter of placing each chicken breast flat on your board and slowly steadying the breast by putting your hand on top as you slice. Then cut through it horizontally until you can open it up like a book.

Pulled Chicken

WITH CILANTRO + LIME

I was inspired to make this dish by my sister, who made a Middle Eastern version of it on repeat one summer, seasoning shreds of warm, juicy rotisserie chicken with fresh lemon juice and Mediterranean spices. We were all pretty damn happy about it. I swapped lime juice for the lemon and fresh cilantro (coriander) for the parsley for a Latin vibe. Enjoy this for dinner with rice or a salad alongside; stuff it into a pitta and tote it to work or school; or bring it to a picnic or potluck, where it can stand on its own as part of a big spread of other meat and vegetable dishes.

1 (1.25 to 1.3kg) rotisserie chicken, meat removed and shredded, skin and bones discarded

In a large bowl, stir together the onion, lime juice and 1 teaspoon salt. Let stand for 10 to 15 minutes while the salt and acid do their magic to soften the texture and bite of the onion.

Add the chicken and coriander to the onion mixture. Toss to combine. Adjust the salt to taste.

Turkey Meatballs

IN VELVETY TOMATO SAUCE

I came up with this recipe when my bestie Reema Sampat was pregnant as a way to satisfy her meatball cravings using a lean protein. The sauce is a spin on a recipe by Marcella Hazan. I like to eat the meatballs and sauce on their own accompanied by a salad, but you can also go the spaghetti route (this will sauce about 675g of pasta nicely), or serve them with crusty bread.

For the sauce: In a medium saucepan, combine the tomatoes, with their juices, the onion halves, butter, Parm rind, if using, basil and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook on low heat, stirring occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon, until the sauce is flavourful and slightly thickened, 45 to 50 minutes. Adjust the seasoning to taste. (The sauce can be made up to 1 week ahead and chilled; remove the Parm, onion, and basil before storing. Or let cool, transfer to freezer containers, and freeze for up to 3 months.)

Meanwhile, make the meatballs: Toast the fennel seeds in a small dry frying pan over medium-low heat, frequently shaking the pan back and forth, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a cutting board and cool, then coarsely chop.

In a large bowl, combine the fennel seeds, turkey, cheese, egg, honey, red chilli flakes and 1 teaspoon of salt and, using dampened hands, gently mix together. Form the mixture into 24 (4cm/1½in) balls, moistening your hands again as necessary.

In a large frying pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add enough of the meatballs to fit in a single layer without crowding and cook, turning occasionally, until golden and just cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a large plate, wipe out the frying pan, and repeat with the remaining meatballs, adding more oil as needed. (The cooked meatballs can be frozen on a baking parchment-lined baking tray, and, once firm, transferred to a zip-lock bag and frozen for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the fridge.)

Remove the Parm rind (if you used it), onion halves and basil sprigs from the sauce. Add the meatballs and gently simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, or until warmed through.

Spoon the meatballs and sauce onto serving plates. Top with Parm, pepper and basil. Serve hot.

Tip

If you prefer not to fry the meatballs, you can bake them on a lightly oiled foil-lined baking tray at 220°C/425°F/gas 7 until cooked through, 15 to 18 minutes. Any leftover sauce can be saved for a simple pasta.

Turkey Kefte

WITH HUMMUS + SPICY CRUSHED CUCUMBER SALAD

Kefte (also known as kofte) are savoury Middle Eastern meat patties, cooked on skewers. I pair them with a crunchy, spicy cucumber salad and homemade hummus. The trio makes for an impressive weeknight staple, and leftovers are perfect for noshing on the following day. I love the extra-creamy consistency of homemade hummus, but in a pinch you can use shop-bought and make it nicer by swirling the spread onto a plate, drizzling it with some good olive oil, and sprinkling with several pinches of the spices suggested below.

About 900g thin-skinned cucumbers, such as Persian or English (about 2 large cukes)

A few pinches of of za’atar or ground cumin and/or smoked paprika (pimentón) for garnish (optional)

For the cucumber salad: In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, chilli garlic sauce, honey and ¼ teaspoon salt. Set aside.

Cut larger cukes lengthways in half. Trim the ends of whichever cukes you are using and cut into 5cm (2in) lengths. Place the pieces in a large zip-lock bag and seal the bag. Give the bag a few whacks with a small frying pan or rolling pin until the cuke pieces split apart. Transfer the cucumbers to a colander set over a bowl and toss with 1½ teaspoons salt. Let drain, tossing once or twice, while you prepare the kefte and hummus (at least 20 minutes).

For the kefte: Heat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas 7, with a rack in the lower third. Line a baking tray with foil and lightly grease with oil.

In a large bowl, combine the turkey, onion, mint, salt, cumin, red chilli flakes, cinnamon and black pepper and, using dampened hands, gently mix together. Divide the mixture into 8 portions and form into torpedo-shaped patties, each about 10cm (4in) long. Arrange on the baking tray. Bake the kefte, rotating the baking tray and turning the patties once halfway through, until golden and cooked through, 20 to 22 minutes. Transfer to a platter.

Meanwhile, make the hummus: Set aside 45g of the chickpeas for garnish. Pulse the remaining chickpeas with the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, salt and 125ml iced water in a food processor until smooth, adding more iced water by the tablespoon to thin to the desired consistency if necessary. (The hummus can be made up to 3 days ahead, covered and chilled.)

Spread the hummus on a serving plate. Swirl with a spatula. Drizzle with oil, then top with the reserved chickpeas and sprinkle with the spices, if using.

Transfer the cucumbers to the bowl with the chilli garlic sauce mixture. Add about 12g of the mint and toss to combine. Top with the remaining mint leaves. Serve with the kefte and hummus.

Tip

I use the oven to bake these kefte, so that I am free to make my salad and hummus while they cook, but you can shape the kefte onto flat skewers and grill them indoors on a grill pan or outside on a gas or charcoal grill.

Moroccan-Style Pasta Bolognese

Cumin, coriander and cinnamon – as well as lamb rather than the traditional beef – give this classic meat sauce a little spin. Since the sauce makes enough for 900g of pasta, I make it on a lazy Sunday and freeze half of it (or all of it, in two batches) for a no-fuss weeknight meal or weekend dinner later on.

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and salt ’til it tastes like the ocean (taste it). Add the pasta and cook, stirring, until al dente.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the yoghurt and 1 to 2 tablespoons of the pasta cooking liquid to loosen it just a bit. Set aside.

Scoop out about 175ml of the pasta cooking liquid and reserve. Drain the pasta and return it to the pan. Add the butter, Bolognese sauce and a tablespoon or two of the pasta cooking liquid. Toss together to combine, adding more pasta cooking liquid by the tablespoonful if the pasta appears dry.

Transfer to serving bowls. Dollop with the yoghurt and top with coriander or mint, Parm and black pepper.

In a large Casserole or other wide heavy saucepan, heat the oil and butter over medium heat until the butter is melted and foamy. Add the onion, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the lamb and cook, stirring frequently and breaking up the meat into bits with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, about 6 minutes.

Stir in the cumin, coriander, red chilli flakes, cinnamon, ¾ teaspoon salt and a generous pinch of pepper and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in the milk. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to medium-low and gently simmer until the sauce is thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until mostly evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes more.

Add the tomatoes and their juices, then reduce the heat to low. Break up the tomatoes into smaller pieces with a wooden spoon, then gently simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding water by ½ cupfuls if the sauce becomes dry, until the sauce is deeply flavourful, about 3 hours. Remove from the heat and adjust the seasoning to taste. Serve, or let cool before storing. (The sauce can be kept in the fridge for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months. Thaw if frozen and gently reheat over low heat, stirring occasionally, and adding 2 to 4 tablespoons water as necessary before serving.)

Tip

For quick work, you can chop the onion, carrot, celery and garlic together in a food processor.

Kielbasa Polish-Style

Traditional Polish kielbasa is sweet, garlicky and smoky, best enjoyed crisped up on a grill or in a frying pan, accompanied by sauerkraut or braised cabbage and boiled potatoes. It’s the hot dog’s brawny older Eastern European uncle. Serve it solo, or proudly serve to a crowd on a charcuterie board; or, for easy outdoor entertaining, serve with a good pale lager-style beer.

675g kielbasa (ideally from a Polish market), cut in half lengthways and scored on the skin side

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the kielbasa, cut side down, and cook, turning occasionally, until deeply golden, about 4 minutes.

Tip

My favourite Polish extra-hot mustard is Cracovia Dobra Tesciowa (dobra tesciowa means ‘good mother-in-law’). When I can’t find it outside New York or Montreal, I make an ad hoc version by stirring a squirt or two of Sriracha and a touch of honey into some hot Dijon.

Hanger Steak

WITH CHARRED LIMES, FRESH CHILES + HERBS

Hanger steak (also known as butcher’s steak) is relatively lean but packed with flavour. Lime juice and a heap of mint and coriander leaves make the dish salady and satisfying, and give it an Asian twist.

675 to 900g hanger steak, about 2.5cm (1in) thick, centre line of gristle removed

Squeeze 2 teaspoons juice from one of the lime halves. Put the juice in a bowl and stir in the shallot and ¼ teaspoon salt. Set aside.

In a large bowl, mix together the garlic, ginger and 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the steak and turn to coat. Let stand for 10 minutes.

Heat a lightly oiled gas or charcoal grill to high or heat in an oiled griddle pan over high heat. (On a charcoal grill, most of the coals should be covered with white ash, and you should be able to hold your palm 2.5 to 5cm (1 to 2in) above the cooking grate for no more than 2 to 3 seconds.)

Brush the cut sides of the remaining lime halves with a total of 1½ teaspoons oil and season with a generous pinch each of salt and pepper.

Scrape the marinade from the steak and season with 1¼ teaspoons salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Grill the steak, turning once, until nicely charred, 4 to 5 minutes per side. (Go for 55°C/130°F if you’re using an instant-read thermometer to check doneness.) At the same time, grill the lime halves, cut side down, rotating them occasionally, until charred, about 5 minutes. Transfer the limes and steak to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.

Slice the steak crossways into 1cm (½in) thick pieces and arrange on a platter. Squeeze the grilled lime wedges over, then spoon the shallot vinaigrette on top. Top with the herbs and chilli.

Tip

Hanger steak (butcher's steak) has a line of gristle that runs down the middle. You can ask your butcher to remove it or do it at home before marinating. If you can’t get hanger, skirt steak is also good here; cook it for slightly less time, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

WEEKNIGHT HEALTHYISH

Aussie Breakfast for Dinner Sammie

Tip