Island Explorer bicycle shuttle
hiking on Baker Isle.
Acadia National Park lies about three-fifths of the way up the Maine coast. The primary section, on Mount Desert Island, is located about 46 miles south of Bangor and 160 miles northeast of Portland. Here is where you’ll find the park’s visitors center. Although it’s an island, Mount Desert is connected to the mainland by bridges and causeways, so you can arrive by car or by bus. Not so with Isle au Haut, the most remote section of the park. Isle au Haut is located off the tip of the Blue Hill-Deer Isle peninsula, southwest of Bangor, and can only be reached by boat. Access is limited, unless you have your own boat, and facilities are few. The Schoodic section of the park tips a mainland peninsula east of Bar Harbor and is easily reachable by vehicle or via passenger ferry from Bar Harbor.
There are no direct commercial flights from overseas to any of Maine’s airports, although one airline provides direct service to Halifax, Nova Scotia. The closest international airport is Boston’s Logan Airport (BOS). Bus service to Portland, Bangor, and in season, Bar Harbor, is available from Logan; train service is available from Boston’s North Station terminal to Portland and Brunswick, and both stations also are served by bus. Rental cars are available at all airports.
The major highway access to Maine from the south is I-95, which roughly parallels the coast until Bangor. Other busy access points are U.S. (Route) 1, entering the state at the Kittery border with New Hampshire and exiting at the Canadian border in Fort Kent; U.S. 302, from North Conway, New Hampshire, entering Maine at Fryeburg; U.S. 2, from Gorham, New Hampshire, to Bethel; U.S. 201, entering Maine at the Jackman border with Quebec; and a couple of crossing points from New Brunswick into Washington County in northeastern Maine.
The maximum speed on I-95 and the Maine Turnpike is 70 mph, on some stretches 55 mph. In snow, sleet, or dense fog, the limit drops to 45 mph; only rarely does the highway close. On other highways, the speed limit is usually 55 mph in rural areas and posted in built-up areas. Published distances can be deceptive; you’ll never average even 55 mph on the two-lane roads.
The Maine Department of Transportation (800/877-9171, www.state.me.us/mdot) has general road information on its website and also operates the Explore Maine site (www.exploremaine.org), which has information on all forms of transportation in Maine. For real-time information on road conditions, weather, construction, and major delays, dial 511 in Maine, 866/282-7578 from out of state, or visit www.511maine.gov. Information is available in both English and French.
If you’re arriving by car, the Maine Tourism Association operates state visitors information centers in Calais, Fryeburg (May-Oct.), Hampden, Houlton, Kittery, and Yarmouth. These are excellent places to visit to stock up on brochures, pick up a map, ask advice, and use the restrooms.
The interstate can be a bit confusing to motorists; it’s important to consult a map and pay close attention to the green directional signs to avoid heading off in the wrong direction. Between York and Augusta, I-95 is the same as the Maine Turnpike, a toll highway regulated by the Maine Turnpike Authority (877/682-9433, travel conditions 800/675-7453, www.maineturnpike.com). All exit numbers along I-95 reflect the distance in miles from the New Hampshire border. I-295 splits from I-95 in Portland and follows the coast to Brunswick before veering inland and rejoining I-95 in Gardiner. Exits on I-295 reflect the distance from where it splits from I-95 just south of Portland at exit 44.
Two exits off I-95 provide access to the Acadia region: From exit 113 in Augusta, take Route 3 east to Belfast, which joins Route 1 north (allow 1.5-2 hours without traffic). From Bangor, take exit 182A, merging onto I-395 east to Route 1A north, which joins Routes 1 and 3 in Ellsworth (allow 45-75 minutes, without traffic). Be sure to follow signs for Ellsworth and Bar Harbor; avoid Route 1A south to Hampden and Stockton Springs.
The Maine Turnpike becomes extremely congested on summer weekends, especially summer holiday weekends. The worst times on the turnpike are 4pm-8pm Friday (northbound), 11am-2pm Saturday (southbound; most weekly cottage rentals run noon Saturday-noon Saturday), and 3pm-7pm Sunday (southbound). On three-day holiday weekends, avoid heading southbound 3pm-7pm Monday.
Two lanes wide from Kittery in the south to Fort Kent at the top, U.S. (Route) 1 is the state’s most congested road, particularly July-August. Mileage distances can be extremely deceptive, since it will take you much longer than anticipated to get from point A to point B. If you ask anyone about distances, chances are good that you’ll receive an answer in hours rather than miles. Plan accordingly. If you’re trying to make time, it’s best to take I-95; if you want to see Maine, take Route 1 and lots of little offshoots. If you drive Route 1 without stops and without encountering slow-moving traffic, it’s about a four- to five-hour trip from Kittery.
Bangor International Airport (BGR, 207/947-0384, www.flybangor.com) is northern and eastern coastal Maine’s hub for flights arriving from Boston and points beyond. Bangor is the closest large airport to Bar Harbor, Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island, and the park’s other outposts. About 500,000 passengers move through Bangor International annually, a user-friendly facility on the outskirts of the city. Although flights tend to be pricier to Bangor than to Portland or especially Boston, there’s a big convenience factor to flying in here.
Despite the “international” in the airport’s name, passenger service from international destinations to Bangor tends to be limited to charter airlines, which sometimes arrive here to clear customs, refuel, and then continue on to points south and west; military flights; and alerts, in which badly behaving passengers are removed from international flights. More typically, international visitors arrive in Bangor via New York or Boston gateways. Bad weather in Portland or Boston can also create unexpected domestic and international arrivals at Bangor’s less-foggy airfield.
The airport’s lower level has an interactive information kiosk, where you can contact local hotels and motels for rooms and airport shuttle service.
Bangor is slightly fewer than 50 miles from Bar Harbor, but you’ll be traveling almost entirely on two-lane roads; in summer, figure on 1.5 hours. Drive Route 1A to Ellsworth and then Route 3 to Bar Harbor. Do not take Route 1A to Hampden, or you’ll end up on the wrong side of the Penobscot River. For the Schoodic section of the park, when Route 1 and Route 3 split in Ellsworth, take Route 1 north to Gouldsboro, then head south on Route 186. For the Blue Hill Peninsula, Deer Isle, and Isle au Haut, from Ellsworth take Route 1 south to Route 172, then in Blue Hill, Route 15 south to reach Stonington and the boat to Isle au Haut.
Car rentals at the airport include Alamo (207/947-0158 or 800/462-5266, www.alamo.com), Avis (207/947-8383 or 800/831-2847, www.avis.com), Budget (207/945-9429 or 800/527-0700, www.drivebudget.com), Hertz (207/942-5519 or 800/654-3131, www.hertz.com), and National (207/947-0158 or 800/227-7368, www.nationalcar.com).
Concord Coach Lines (1039 Union St./Rte. 222, Bangor, 207/945-4000 or 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) provides daily bus service year-round from Logan Airport in Boston to the Bangor Transportation Center via Portland. Greyhound (430 Coldbrook Rd., Hermon, 207/945-3000 or 800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) offers less frequent service between Boston’s South Station and Dysart’s Truck Stop in Hermon, a less convenient spot just west of Bangor. Neither bus line services Bar Harbor, but both offer connections to the Bar Harbor-Bangor Shuttle.
While there are ways to connect various points in the Acadia region via regional bus services (see www.exploremaine.org), most operate only one or two buses per day and often only on a few days each week. The most convenient and reasonably priced transportation between Bangor and Bar Harbor is provided by Bar Harbor-Bangor Shuttle (207/479-5911, www.barharborbangorshuttle.com). Shuttle stops include Bangor Airport, Bangor Transportation Center, the Greyhound station, and most hotels in Bangor; Mike’s Groceries in Ellsworth; the Hancock County-Bar Harbor Airport; and numerous lodging properties in Bar Harbor.
Round-the-clock taxi service is available; check the Bangor Airport website for current options. Bar Harbor-based Bar Harbor Coastal Cab (207/288-1222, www.barharborcoastalcab.com) provides both local and long-distance service and accepts credit cards.
Bangor International Airport is approximately 45 miles from Bar Harbor. Depending on when your flight arrives, you may wish to spend the night here and begin your journey refreshed. Most of the mid-rate chains have properties here. Your choice of a hotel or motel near the Bangor Mall or the Bangor Airport may depend on your frequent-flyer memberships or where you get the best auto club deal. There are lots of options, and most offer free shuttle service to and from the airport.
Many properties book far in advance for the fourth weekend in August, when the American Folk Festival is in town and traffic can be a bear.
For early-morning flights, you can’t beat the convenience of the Four Points Sheraton Hotel (307 Godfrey Blvd., Bangor, 207/947-6721 or 800/228-4609, www.fourpointsbangorairport.com, from $155), which is linked to the terminal by a skyway. It has a restaurant and an indoor pool. Pets are permitted for $20 per stay.
Next to the Bangor Mall, with restaurants and a food court, is the 96-room Country Inn at the Mall (936 Stillwater Ave., Bangor, 207/941-0200 or 800/244-3961, www.countryinnatthemall.net, from $110), which includes a continental breakfast and offers free lodging for kids rooming with parents.
Hollywood Casino Hotel & Raceway (500 Main St., Bangor, 877/779-7771, www.hollywoodcasinobangor.com, $99-349) is the best downtown hotel, but it is a casino and you have to deal with the hoopla that goes with it. Facilities include two restaurants. The location puts all of downtown within footsteps. Airport shuttles are available.
On Bangor’s western perimeter are two clean, well-managed campgrounds convenient to I-95 and Bangor. The emphasis is on RVs, but tent sites are available. Closest to the city is the 52-site Paul Bunyan Campground (1862 Union St./Rte. 222, Bangor, 207/941-1177, www.paulbunyancampground.com, mid-Apr.-Oct., from $22), about three miles northwest of I-95 on Route 222 west.
About two miles farther out on Route 222, Pleasant Hill Campground (45 Mansell Rd., at Rte. 222, Hermon, 207/848-5127, www.pleasanthillcampground.com, from $24), also a Good Sam Park, has 105 sites on 60 acres.
You’ll find lots of fast food and family-friendly chains between the airport and the mall. Just south on I-95 at exit 180 is Dysart’s (Coldbrook Rd., Hermon, 207/942-4878, www.dysarts.com, $5-16), a 24-hour trucker’s destination resort with good grub. For a nicer meal, head downtown to Fiddlehead (84 Hammond St., Bangor, 207/942-3336, www.thefiddleheadrestaurant.com, 4pm-9pm Tues.-Fri., 5pm-10pm Sat., 5pm-9pm Sun., $7-34) or Mason’s Brewing (15 Hardy St., Brewer, 207/989-6300, http://masonsbrewingcompany.com, 10:30am-10:30pm daily, $12-17), a contemporary brewpub with riverside seating and a menu that includes burgers, sandwiches, salads, and pizzas.
For anyone planning to go just to Acadia National Park, the primary gateway typically is Bangor. But if you’re visiting Acadia as part of a Maine vacation, you might well choose Portland—160-180 miles south of Bar Harbor, depending on the route—as a springboard for getting to Acadia. Another consideration: Because the airport is served by JetBlue and Southwest, prices tend to be lower.
Although it keeps expanding, Portland International Jetport (PWM, 207/874-8877 or 207/774-7301 automated info, www.portlandjetport.org) remains an easily navigable airport, where all flights leave from and arrive at the same building. Don’t be fooled by the “international” in the airport’s name: there’s only one airline serving Halifax, Canada. Note that, being on the coast, the Portland airport is more subject to fog shutdowns than is Bangor.
Amtrak’s Downeaster (800/872-7245, www.thedowneaster.com) makes daily round-trip runs between Boston’s North Station and Brunswick, with stops in Wells, Saco, Old Orchard Beach (May 1-Oct. 31), Portland, and Freeport. From the Portland station, Portland’s Metro municipal bus service will take you gratis to downtown Portland; just show your Amtrak ticket stub.
Amtrak trains from Washington via New York arrive in Boston at South Station, not North Station, and there’s no direct link between the two. While you can connect via the T (Boston’s subway), it’s a real hassle with baggage. Instead, splurge on a taxi or take the bus north from South Station.
There are no train connections to the Acadia region.
The Cat (877/762-7245, https://www.ferries.ca/thecat), a high-speed catamaran car ferry, operates between the Ocean Gateway Terminal in Portland, Maine, and Yarmouth International Ferry Terminal in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, from mid-May to mid-October.
There are several routes for driving from Portland to Mount Desert Island. Route A follows the four-lane interstate for most of the way, and then finishes up on two-lane roads. Route B is half interstate, half two-lane roads. Route C is almost all on two-lane roads—it’s also the most scenic and the slowest route. As with most other Maine auto explorations, it’s particularly helpful to use the DeLorme Maine Atlas and Gazetteer (www.delorme.com, $20).
For Route A, depart Portland north on I-295 and continue to just south of Augusta, where it merges with I-95. Continue on I-95 to Bangor and take exit 182A, merging onto I-395 east toward Holden and Ellsworth (and Acadia). At the end of I-395, you’re also at the end of four-lane highways; it’s two lanes the rest of the way. Continue on Route 1A to Ellsworth, then Route 3 through Trenton to Mount Desert Island. Allow at least three hours.
For Blue Hill, Deer Isle, and Isle au Haut, from Ellsworth head south on Route 1 (Main St.) through town, then take Route 172 south to Blue Hill, and then Route 15 south to reach Stonington and the boat to Isle au Haut.
For the Schoodic Peninsula, in Ellsworth take Route 1 north to Gouldsboro, and then take Route 186 south to the park.
For Route B, start out the same way from Portland, on I-295 to I-95, then just north of Augusta, take exit 113 for Route 3 east. You’ll be on two-lane roads the rest of the way. Route 1 doubles as Route 3 from Belfast to the southern end of Ellsworth. Allow at least 3.5 hours.
For the Blue Hill Peninsula, Deer Isle, and Isle au Haut, take Route 15 south from Orland. If your destination is Castine, take Route 175 south from Bucksport.
For the Schoodic Peninsula, stay on Route 1 to Gouldsboro, and then take Route 186.
Route C is the coastal route, where you’ll be winding through and skirting small communities the whole way. This route lends itself to (no, requires!) stops—for photos, for exploring, for shopping, for overnights. Stopping only for lunch and restrooms, you’ll still need to allow 4.5-6 hours from Portland to Bar Harbor. And all bets are off on Friday afternoons in summer, when towns such as Wiscasset and Camden can be major bottlenecks. They’re lovely towns, though—definitely worth a stop.
To take Route C from Portland, you can start off on two-lane Route 1, or you can go north on four-lane I-295 and I-95 to Brunswick, then cut over when you see the Coastal U.S. 1 sign. Follow Route 1 the rest of the way—through Bath, Wiscasset, Newcastle, Waldoboro, Thomaston, Rockland, Rockport, Camden, Belfast, Searsport, Bucksport, Orland, and the turnoffs for the Blue Hill Peninsula, and on to Ellsworth, where you’ll split off onto Route 3 and head for Mount Desert Island, or stay on Route 1 to Gouldsboro and the Schoodic Peninsula.
Between Brunswick and Rockland, down each of the “fingers” east of Route 1, are even more towns and villages—Harpswell, Phippsburg, Georgetown, Boothbay Harbor, Damariscotta, Friendship, and Cushing.
Which brings us to the bottom line: You could spend weeks visiting Portland and making your way from there to Acadia.
Car rentals at the airport include Alamo (207/775-0855 or 877/222-9075, www.alamo.com), Avis (207/874-7500 or 800/230-4898, www.avis.com), Budget (207/874-7500 or 800/527-0700, www.drivebudget.com), Hertz (207/774-4544 or 800/654-3131, www.hertz.com), and National (207/773-0036 or 877/222-9058, www.nationalcar.com).
Concord Coach Lines (800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) departs downtown Boston’s South Station Transportation Center and Logan Airport for Portland almost hourly from the wee hours of the morning until late at night, making pickups at all Logan airline terminals (on the lower level). Most of the buses continue directly to Bangor; a few daily non-express buses continue along the coast to Searsport before turning inland to Bangor. The Portland bus terminal is the Portland Transportation Center, on Thompson Point Road just west of I-295.
Also serving Maine but with far less frequent service is Greyhound (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com).
Portland airport’s small size and practically downtown location are big pluses for many travelers. It’s simple to get on I-95 headed north if you’re heading right out. If you’re planning on spending the night, you can be in downtown Portland within 10-15 minutes via taxi.
You’ll find most of the major chain hotels in the Greater Portland area. Also here are some lovely B&Bs and excellent independent hotels and inns; see www.visitportland.com. Some offer airport and transportation center shuttle service.
Right at the airport, with free shuttles, are Embassy Suites Hotel (1050 Westbrook St., 207/774-2200, www.embassysuites.com, from $320), with an indoor heated pool, a restaurant, free full breakfast and afternoon reception, and coin laundry, and the Hilton Garden Inn (145 Jetport Blvd., 207/828-1117, www.hiltongardeninn.com, from $200), with an indoor heated pool and coin laundry.
Railroad tycoon John Deering built The Inn at St. John (939 Congress St., 207/773-6481 or 800/636-9127, www.innatstjohn.com, $139-189) in 1897. The comfortable (if somewhat tired), moderately priced 39-room hostelry is a good choice for value-savvy travelers who aren’t seeking fancy accommodations. The inn welcomes children and dogs ($10). Reimbursement for taxi from the airport or transportation center is available at a fixed price. Most guest rooms have private baths (some are detached). The downside is the lackluster neighborhood—in the evening you’ll want to drive or take a taxi when going out.
The Portland Harbor Hotel (468 Fore St., 207/775-9090 or 888/798-9090, www.portlandharborhotel.com, from $339) is an upscale boutique hotel with restaurant built around a garden courtyard in the desirable Old Port neighborhood. The hotel has a cozy lounge, the restaurant has 24-hour room service, and a free local car service is available.
About 20 minutes north of Portland, the family-run Casco Bay Inn (107 U.S. 1, 207/865-4925 or 800/570-4970, www.cascobayinn.com, $108-150) is a budget-friendly motel with spacious guest rooms and a continental breakfast.
Downtown Portland alone has more than 100 restaurants. The city’s proximity to fresh foods from both farms and the sea makes it popular with chefs, and its Italian roots and growing immigrant population mean a good variety of international dining too. Do make reservations, whenever possible, and as far in advance as you can, especially in July-August. If you’re especially into the food scene, check www.portlandfoodmap.com for a breakdown by cuisine of Portland restaurants, with links to recent reviews. Here are a few favorites.
Ask around and everyone will tell you the best seafood in town is at Street and Company (33 Wharf St., Old Port, 207/775-0887, www.streetandcompany.net, 5pm-9:30pm Sun.-Thurs., 5pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., entrées from $18). Fresh, beautifully prepared fish is what you get, often with a Mediterranean flair.
For lobster in the rough, head to Portland Lobster Company (180 Commercial St., 207/775-2112, www.portlandlobstercompany.com, 11am-10pm daily). There’s a small inside seating area, but it’s much more pleasant to sit out on the wharf and watch the excursion boats come and go. Expect to pay in the low $20 range for a one-pound lobster with fries and slaw. Other choices ($8-23) and a kids’ menu are available.
Huge portions at rock-bottom prices make Silly’s (40 Washington Ave., 207/772-0360, www.sillys.com, 11am-9pm Tues.-Fri., 9am-9pm Sat.-Sun., $8-16) an ever-popular choice among the young and budget-minded. The expansive menu has lots of international flair along with veggie, vegan, gluten-free, and dairy-free options.
Vegan and vegetarian cuisine comes with an Asian accent at Green Elephant (608 Congress St., 207/347-3111, www.greenelephantmaine.com, 11:30am-2:30pm Tues.-Sat. and from 5pm daily, $9-14). There’s not one shred of meat on the creative menu, but you won’t miss it.
Plan well in advance to land a reservation at the city’s nationally lauded tables: Fore Street (288 Fore St., Old Port, 207/775-2717, www.forestreet.biz, from 5:30pm daily, entrées from $20); Hugo’s (88 Middle St., at Franklin St., 207/774-8538, www.hugos.net, from 5:30pm Mon.-Sat., entrées from $20); Five Fifty-Five (555 Congress St., 207/761-0555, www.fivefifty-five.com, from 5pm daily, entrées from $22); and Eventide Oyster Co. (86 Middle St., 207/774-8538, www.eventideoysterco.com, 11am-midnight daily, entrées from $25).
Boston’s Logan Airport is the region’s closest international airport, and due to its larger size, it often has fares that are lower than those serving Maine’s airports.
General Edward Lawrence Logan International Jetport (BOS, 800/234-6426 automated info, www.massport.com) has four terminals (A, B, C, E) grouped in a horseshoe pattern. Terminal E handles most, but not all, international flights. Blue-and-white Massport On-Airport Shuttle buses connect the terminals with the Rental Car Center and the MBTA’s Airport Station for the subway’s Blue Line: During peak midday hours: Bus 22 serves Terminals A and B; Bus 33 serves Terminals C and E. During late morning and late evening off-peak hours, Bus 55 serves all terminals. Shuttle Bus 66 serves all terminals, the subway station, and the Water Transportation Dock; Bus 11 circulates between all terminals, but doesn’t go to the subway; Bus 88 serves all terminals and the parking garage. Buses usually run every 5-6 minutes. In addition, the MBTA’s Silver Line SL1 bus provides transportation between all terminals and South Station, with stops en route; a free connection is offered to the Red Line (which connects to North Station); fare is $2.10.
Car rentals at Logan’s Rental Car Center include Advantage (617/567-4140, www.advantage.com), Alamo (888/826-6893, www.alamo.com), Avis (617/568-6600, www.avis.com), Budget (617/497-3733, www.drivebudget.com), Dollar (866/434-2226, www.dollar.com), Enterprise (617-561-4488, www.enterprise.com), Hertz (617-568-5200, www.hertz.com), National (888/826-6890, www.nationalcar.com), and Zipcar (866/494-7227, www.zipcar.com)
Concord Coach Lines (800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) departs downtown Boston’s South Station Transportation Center and Logan Airport for Portland almost hourly from the wee hours of the morning until late at night, making pickups at all Logan airline terminals (on the lower level). Most of the buses continue directly to Bangor; a few daily non-express buses continue along the coast to Searsport before turning inland to Bangor.
Amtrak’s Downeaster (800/872-7245, www.thedowneaster.com) makes daily round-trip runs between Boston’s North Station and Brunswick, with stops in Wells, Saco, Old Orchard Beach (May 1-Oct. 31), Portland, and Freeport. From the Portland station, Portland’s Metro municipal bus service will take you gratis to downtown Portland; just show your Amtrak ticket stub. Amtrak trains from Washington via New York arrive in Boston at South Station, not North Station, and there’s no direct link between the two. While you can connect via the T (Boston’s subway), it’s a real hassle with baggage. Instead, splurge on a taxi or take the bus north from South Station.
There are no train connections to the Acadia region.
It would be interesting to know the statistics on how many people drive directly from Boston to Acadia National Park without stopping en route. I’d guess not many; perhaps mostly those who have summer homes on Mount Desert Island or nearby. The trip is around 270 miles (about six hours), and not all of the trek is on multilane highway. You can’t count on averaging 60 mph when you hit the two-lane roads, especially in midsummer. Even on the 4-6-lane I-95, traffic can choke up at tollbooths. Also, you’ll need bathroom breaks, snack breaks, maybe a gas fill-up—and all of Maine south of Acadia has its own attractions to lure you into detours (L.L.Bean and the Freeport outlet shops are major magnets).
But if you’re determined to drive from Boston, the best route is I-95, through 18 miles of New Hampshire into Maine and directly toward Bangor (the Maine Turnpike and I-95 are the same road for some stretches). Take exit 182A for U.S. 395 and watch for signs for Route 1A to Ellsworth and then Route 3 to Bar Harbor. Do not take Route 1A to Hampden, or you’ll end up on the wrong side of the Penobscot River. For the Schoodic section of the park, when Route 1 and Route 3 split in Ellsworth, take Route 1 north to Gouldsboro, then head south on Route 186. For the Blue Hill Peninsula, Deer Isle, and Isle au Haut, from Ellsworth take Route 1 south to Route 172, then in Blue Hill, Route 15 south to reach Stonington and the boat to Isle au Haut.
The most convenient air access to Acadia is Hancock County-Bar Harbor Airport (BHB, 207/667-7329, www.bhbairport.com). It’s located 12 miles from downtown Bar Harbor, and despite its name, the airport is located in Trenton, just north of Mount Desert Island. This isn’t a big-jet airport, in case you’re squeamish about small planes. Alaska Air partner PenAir (800/448-4226, www.penair.com) and Jet Blue partner Cape Air (866/227-3247, www.capeair.com) provide summer service to Bar Harbor from Boston. Flight time from Boston to Trenton is about 80 minutes.
This one’s quick and easy. Take Route 3 west for Mount Desert Island and Bar Harbor (just take a left when exiting the airport). For the Schoodic section of the park, head east on Route 3 to the junction with Route 1 in Ellsworth, then north on Route 1 to Gouldsboro, then south on Route 186. For the Blue Hill Peninsula, Deer Isle, and Isle au Haut, take Route 3 east through Ellsworth to Route 172, then in Blue Hill, Route 15 south to reach Stonington and the boat to Isle au Haut.
Hertz (207/667-5017 or 800/654-3131, www.hertz.com) provides on-site rental cars year-round. Enterprise (207/664-2662 or 800/325-8007) operates May 1-October 31. In summer, be sure to reserve a car well in advance.
The free Island Explorer (207/667-5796, www.exploreacadia.com) stops at the airport late June-early October. Connections serve most of Mount Desert Island, including Bar Harbor, Southwest Harbor, and Acadia National Park.
How will you get around once you get here? Europeans are always shocked at Maine’s minimal public transport. Among less-populated areas, Mount Desert Island stands out, thanks to its fare-free, propane-fueled Island Explorer bus system, subsidized by your park fees, Friends of Acadia, L.L.Bean, and local businesses. It serves most of the island as well as Bar Harbor Airport in Trenton. The good news is that it’s a very efficient network; the bad news is that it runs only late June-mid-October. Try to come during the Explorer’s season, when you can rubberneck all you want from the comfort of a bus seat. No missed turns, no near misses; less pollution, less frazzle. If you’ve arrived by car, leave it at your lodging and hop on the bus.
The Island Explorer also circulates around the southern end of the Schoodic Peninsula, from Winter Harbor to Prospect Harbor, with a loop through the park. It meets the passenger ferry that connects Bar Harbor to Winter Harbor, so you can visit the Schoodic section of the park from Mount Desert Island without needing a car.
The outer islands are also accessible from Mount Desert Island. Most islands can be explored on foot or bicycle (rentals are available in Bar Harbor, Northeast Harbor, and Southwest Harbor). Passenger ferries from Southwest Harbor and Northeast Harbor cruise to the Cranberry Isles. A state car ferry serves Swans Island and Frenchboro. From Stonington, a passenger ferry connects Deer Isle to Isle au Haut.
You’ll need a car to explore the other regions covered in this book: Blue Hill Peninsula, Deer Isle, the Schoodic region beyond the Island Explorer’s reaches, and Ellsworth, although there are some regional bus services with limited schedules.
Almost all gas stations in Maine are self-serve. Pumps are marked “Self”; at those marked “Full,” you’ll pay more to have an attendant pump the gas for you. Most now allow you to pay at the pump with a credit card. Many also have ATMs, but you’ll usually have to pay a bank surcharge.
Seat belts are mandatory in Maine. Unless posted otherwise, Maine allows right turns at red lights, after you stop and check for oncoming traffic. Never pass a stopped school bus in either direction. Wait until the bus’s red lights have stopped flashing and all children are well off the road. Maine law also requires drivers to turn on their car’s headlights any time the windshield wipers are operating. Keep right on multilane roads except to pass.
Since Maine is enslaved to the automobile, it’s not a bad idea for vacationers to carry membership in AAA in case of breakdowns, flat tires, and other car crises. Contact your nearest AAA office or AAA Northern New England (425 Marginal Way, Portland, 207/780-6800 or 800/482-7497, www.aaanne.com). The emergency road service number is 800/222-4357.
For real-time information on road conditions, weather, construction, and major delays, dial 511 in Maine or 866/282-7578 from out of state, or visit http://newengland511.org.
Request a free state map through the Maine Office of Tourism (888/624-6345, www.visitmaine.com). Acadia National Park maps are available at the visitors centers. Most local chambers of commerce have free local maps.
Peek in any Mainer’s car and you’re likely to see a copy of The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer, often referred to as Delorme, its former publisher. Despite an oversize format inconvenient for hiking and kayaking, this 96-page paperbound book just about guarantees that you won’t get lost (and if you’re good at map reading, it can get you out of a lot of traffic jams). Scaled at one-half inch to the mile, it’s revised annually and details back roads and dirt roads and shows elevations, boat ramps, public lands, campgrounds, picnic areas, and trailheads. It’s widely available in Maine, but you can also order direct (800/452-5931, https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/575993/pn/AA-000014-000#). The atlas is $19.95.
Hancock County, including the Blue Hill Peninsula and Deer Isle, Ellsworth and Trenton, Mount Desert Island, and east to Gouldsboro, is served by a patchwork of local transportation systems designed for commuters, seniors, and residents without access to a vehicle. Providing an umbrella for it all is Downeast Transportation (207/667-5796, www.downeasttrans.org), with maps and schedules online. You can piece the region together, but each entity acts independently. Check online for fare details, as bus drivers require exact change.
Since 9/11, security has been excruciatingly tight for foreign visitors, with immigration and customs procedures in flux. For current rules, visit https://www.usa.gov/travel-and-immigration. It’s wise to make two sets of copies of all paperwork: one to carry separately on your trip and another left with a trusted friend or relative at home.
For information on what can be brought into the United States, check the website of the Customs and Border Protection division of the Department of Homeland Security (www.cbp.gov).
Since Maine’s Down East (geographically, northeast) coast borders Canada, don’t be surprised to see a few Canadian coins mixed in with American ones when you receive change from a purchase. In such cases, Canadian and U.S. quarters are equivalent, although the exchange rate may be different. Most services (including banks) will accept a handful of Canadian coins at par, but you’ll occasionally spot No Canadian Currency signs.
Other foreign currencies are not easily convertible (without losing in the exchange) at the small local banks on Mount Desert Island. Acadia National Park has no ATMs within its boundaries, but there are ATMs in Bar Harbor and other communities on Mount Desert Island.
For the most current exchange rate info, visit www.xe.com.
For all accommodations listings, rates are quoted for peak season, which is usually July-August but may extend through foliage season in mid-October. Rates drop, often dramatically, in the shoulder seasons and off-season at many accommodations that remain open. Especially during peak season, many accommodations require a 2-3-night minimum.
For the best rates, be sure to check Internet specials and ask about packages. Many accommodations also provide discounts for members of travel clubs such as AAA and to seniors, members of the military, and other such groups.
Everyone knows Maine is the place for lobster, but there are quite a few other foods that you should sample before you leave.
Be sure to try a Maine wild blueberry pie!
For a few weeks in May, right around Mother’s Day (the second Sunday in May), a wonderful delicacy starts sprouting along Maine woodland streams: fiddleheads, the still-furled tops of the ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris). Tasting vaguely like asparagus, fiddleheads have been on May menus ever since Native Americans taught the colonists to forage for the tasty vegetable. Don’t go fiddleheading unless you’re with a pro, though; the look-alikes are best left to the woodland critters. If you find them on a restaurant menu, indulge.
As with fiddleheads, we owe thanks to Native Americans for introducing us to maple syrup, one of Maine’s major agricultural exports. The syrup comes in four colors and flavors, from light amber to extra dark amber, and inspectors strictly monitor syrup quality. The best syrup comes from the sugar, or rock, maple (Acer saccharum). On Maine Maple Sunday (usually the fourth Sunday in March), several dozen syrup producers open their rustic sugarhouses to the public for “sugaring-off” parties—to celebrate the sap harvest and share the final phase in the production process. Woodsmoke billows from the sugarhouse chimney while everyone inside gathers around huge kettles used to boil down the watery sap. (A single gallon of syrup starts with 30-40 gallons of sap.) Finally, it’s time to sample the syrup every which way—on pancakes and waffles, in tea, on ice cream, in puddings, in muffins, even just drizzled over snow. Most producers also have containers of syrup for sale. For a list of participating sugarhouses, contact the Maine Department of Agriculture (207/287-3491, www.getrealmaine.com).
The best place for Maine maple syrup is atop pancakes made with Maine wild blueberries. Packed with antioxidants and all kinds of good-for-you stuff, these flavorful berries are prized by bakers because they retain their form and flavor when cooked. Much smaller than the cultivated versions, wild blueberries are raked, not picked. Although most of the Down East barren barons harvest their crops for the lucrative wholesale market, a few growers let you pick your own blueberries in mid-August. Contact the Wild Blueberry Commission (207/581-1475, http://wildblueberries.maine.edu) or the state Department of Agriculture (207/287-3491, www.getrealmaine.com) for locations, recipes, and other wild blueberry information, or log on to the website of the Wild Blueberry Association of North America (www.wildblueberries.com), headquartered in Bar Harbor.
The best place to simply appreciate blueberries is Machias, an easy day trip from most anywhere in the Acadia region and site of the renowned annual Wild Blueberry Festival, held the third weekend in August. While harvesting is under way in the surrounding fields, you can stuff your face with blueberry everything—muffins, jam, pancakes, ice cream, and pies. Plus you can collect blueberry-logo napkins, T-shirts, fridge magnets, pottery, and jewelry.
Another don’t-miss while in Maine is Maine-made ice cream. Skip the overpriced Ben & Jerry’s outlets. Locally made ice cream is fresher and better, and it often comes in an astounding range of flavors. The big name in the state is Gifford’s, along with regional companies Shain’s and Round Top. All beat the out-of-state competition by a long shot. Even better are some of the one-of-a-kind dairy bars and farm stands. Good bets are Morton’s Moo in Ellsworth, Pugnuts in Surry, and MDI Ice Cream and Ben & Bill’s, both in Bar Harbor.
Finally, whenever you get a chance, shop at a farmers market. Their biggest asset is serendipity—you never know what you’ll find. Everything is locally grown and often organic. Herbs, unusual vegetables, seedlings, baked goods, meat, free-range chicken, goat cheese, herb vinegars, berries, exotic condiments, smoked salmon, maple syrup, honey, and jams are just a few of the possibilities. For a list of all the markets, including those in inland areas, visit www.getrealmaine.com.
Unless otherwise noted, accommodations listed have private baths.
A note about B&Bs: If you’ve never stayed at a B&B, begin by putting aside any ideas you may have about them. No two are alike, but all are built on the premise that your experiences will be richer if it’s easy to meet other travelers. That said, many provide private tables for breakfast—ask before booking—if you’re just not up to being sociable first thing in the morning. The shared breakfast table does provide an opportunity to trade experiences with other guests. Some also provide afternoon refreshments, another opportunity to chat. Many B&Bs are quite exquisite and decorated with antiques and fine art, which means they’re often inappropriate for young children. Others are equipped with all the latest techy conveniences. A number of Mount Desert Island B&Bs are in grand historic cottages that survived the fire, providing a taste of that lifestyle and a peek into those rambling homes. Most B&Bs are operated by folks who live here year-round (some for generations), so they are able to provide recommendations based on their in-depth knowledge. B&Bs, especially, reflect their owners, so expect any of them to be different than described if ownership has changed.
Days and hours of operation listed for places serving food are for peak season. These do change often, sometimes even within a season, and it’s not uncommon for a restaurant to close early on a quiet night. To avoid disappointment, call before making a special trip.
As in the rest of the country, Maine’s minimum drinking age is 21—and bar owners, bartenders, and serving staff can be held legally accountable for serving underage imbibers. If your blood alcohol level is 0.08 percent or higher, you are legally considered to be operating under the influence.
Maine laws ban smoking in restaurants, bars, and lounges as well as enclosed areas of public places, such as shopping malls. Only a handful of bed-and-breakfasts and country inns permit smoking, and increasingly motels, hotels, and resorts are limiting the number of rooms where smoking is permitted. Some accommodations ban smoking anywhere on the property, and most have instituted high fines for smoking in a nonsmoking room. If you’re a smoker, motels with direct outdoor access make it easiest to satisfy a craving.
All of Maine is in the eastern time zone—the same as New York, Washington DC, Philadelphia, and Orlando. Eastern standard time (EST) runs from the first Sunday in November to the second Sunday in March; eastern daylight time (EDT), one hour later, prevails otherwise. Surprising to many first-time visitors, especially when visiting coastal areas, is how early the sun rises in the morning and how early it sets at night.
If your itinerary also includes Canada, remember that the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia are on Atlantic time—one hour later than eastern time—so if it’s noon in Maine, it’s 1pm in these provinces.
Bringing a recreational vehicle (RV) to Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park creates something of a conundrum. No question, the vehicles are convenient for carting kids and gear, but they’re a major source of traffic problems on the island, and especially within the park. All of the island’s roads are two lanes, and even though the island offers more designated bike lanes than almost anywhere else in Maine, bikes and RVs often have to share the road. RV parking is very limited, and even banned in some locales (such as downtown Bar Harbor). Ideally, you should consider bringing an RV to Acadia only between late June and Columbus Day—when you can park the vehicle in one of the island’s dozen commercial campgrounds and travel around the island via the Island Explorer shuttle service.
Incidentally, be aware that the maximum trailer (or RV) length in the national park’s two campgrounds is 35 feet, maximum width is 12 feet, and only one vehicle is allowed per site. Neither park campground has water or electrical hookups.
Acadia National Park isn’t a turn-the-toddlers-loose kind of place—there are too many cliffs and other potential hazards—but for school-age youngsters and cooperative teenagers, it’s a fabulous family vacation destination. Enroll kids in the Junior Ranger program and participate in the Acadia Quest scavenger hunt. There are family-oriented kayak tours, park ranger tours, whale-watching trips, hiking and biking trails, carriage rides, and boat excursions. There’s saltwater swimming (literally breathtaking for adults, but not for kids) at Sand Beach and freshwater swimming at several lakes and ponds. Incredibly, McDonald’s and Burger King haven’t invaded Mount Desert Island (although Subway has), but Bar Harbor and other towns have plenty of pizza and lobster joints, as well as two cinemas (one year-round, one seasonal) and several museums for rainy days.
Be forewarned that in-line skates and skateboards are not allowed anywhere within the park. The island communities surrounding the park are small and—especially at the height of summer—congested. In-line skates can come in handy, but use them sensibly; skateboards, on the other hand, are a major hazard in these villages (Bar Harbor does have a skateboard park). Bikes are not allowed on any of the park’s hiking trails, but the car-free carriage trail network is ideal for biking.
How about doing a family volunteer stint? Consider spending a morning on a trail-maintenance crew. You’ll help cut back vegetation along trails and carriage roads, rebuild walls or drainages, clean up, and participate in other such activities. Bring water, insect repellent, and a bag lunch for a post-work picnic—the camaraderie is contagious. It’s advisable to dress in layers, and do wear sturdy shoes. The nonprofit Friends of Acadia organization chalks up more than 8,000 volunteer hours every year. Check the website (www.friendsofacadia.org) before you come, or call 207/288-3934 when you get here for the recorded schedule of work projects. Volunteer crews meet at park headquarters (Rte. 233/Eagle Lake Rd.).
Every summer, College of the Atlantic opens its doors to families, offering five sessions of its Family Nature Camp (800/597-9500, www.coa.edu/summer). This hands-on, participatory, naturalist-led program provides plenty of fodder for those “What I Did on My Summer Vacation” essays. The weeklong sessions are designed to cure nature-deficit disorder, and they include activities such as whale-watching, tide pool exploration, wildlife-viewing expeditions, and more. Minimum age is five; extended family is welcome. The fee is around $1,000 per person for age 16 and older, $500 per person ages 2-15 and younger, $50 infant. Camp runs Sunday afternoon through Saturday morning and includes campus lodging (bring your own sheets and towels), meals, and all scheduled field trips.
In Acadia National Park, dogs are allowed only on leashes, and they are banned from several park locations: Sand and Echo Lake Beaches, Duck Harbor Campground on Isle au Haut, park buildings, and any of the “ladder” hiking trails, which have iron foot- and handholds. (When you see the ladder trails, you’ll understand why pets are forbidden.) Don’t take pets on the park ranger tours, and do not leave your dog unattended, especially in an RV at one of the campgrounds. Be considerate of your pet as well as of other visitors. Of course, guide dogs are exempted from the pet rules.
Keep your pet leashed when traveling, especially in the park, where it’s the law.
To make the best of a visit to Acadia—so you can hike and bike and kayak without worrying about your pet—you might want to reserve kennel space for part of your stay. Mount Desert Island has the Acadia Woods Kennel (Crooked Rd., Bar Harbor, 207/288-9766, www.acadiawoodskennel.com), which offers both overnight and day boarding. In July-August, be sure to call well in advance for a reservation. If you’d prefer to have a dog-sitter come to your hotel or campground, contact Wendy Scott at Bark Harbor (150 Main St., Bar Harbor, 207/288-0404, www.barkharbor.com). She’ll recommend someone who can help. If at all possible, make arrangements before you arrive, and when you get here, visit the store—a Toys R Us for pet owners. Bark Harbor maintains a list of pet-friendly restaurants and accommodations. Another resource is Downeast Dog News (www.downeastdognews.com), a free monthly tabloid available at pet-friendly locations and also online. It has a calendar of events.
Age does have its privileges. U.S. citizens and permanent residents age 62 or older can purchase a Senior Pass, valid for admission to more than 300 national parks (including Acadia), historic sites, and monuments for $80, a one-time fee. It also entitles you to half-price camping. Many lodgings and many attractions and sights offer discounts to seniors. It never hurts to ask. Age varies; some begin their discounts for those as young as 55 (egad!). In any case, you’ll need proof of age, such as a driver’s license or passport.
Age also often brings achy knees and hips or other such maladies. Many of the accommodations in this area are small inns and B&Bs. If you have mobility problems or difficulty carrying your luggage up a flight of stairs or two, you’ll want to make sure that your lodging has either first-floor rooms or elevators.
Acadia National Park has been conscientious about providing as much accessibility as possible to people with disabilities. For a start, the Hulls Cove Visitors Center (the park’s spring, summer, and fall information center) has a special parking area for easy wheelchair access, bypassing the 52 steps from the main parking area. When you get into the center, request an Access Pass, which provides free lifetime entry to any national park and half-price camping at park sites for any citizen or permanent resident who is permanently disabled (if you’ve broken your leg or have another temporary disability, you’re not eligible). The passport is also available at the park’s two campgrounds, at park headquarters, and at the Sand Beach and Bar Harbor Village Green ticket booths.
Also at the Hulls Cove Visitors Center, pick up a copy of the Acadia National Park Accessibility Guide, which provides detailed accessibility information—including parking, entry, restrooms, pay phones, and water fountains—for the park’s visitors centers, the two campgrounds, picnic areas, beaches, and gift shops as well as carriage rides, some boat cruises, and nonpark museums on Mount Desert Island. A few of the park ranger programs are wheelchair-accessible, as are all of the evening programs at the park’s two campgrounds. Access to the carriage road network depends on your ability (there are some steep grades); even the easiest trails may require some assistance. Each of the Island Explorer shuttle buses—operating late June-Columbus Day—has room for at least one wheelchair.
Parking lots at some of the park’s most popular locales (such as Thunder Hole, the Cadillac Mountain summit, and Jordan Pond House) have designated accessible parking spaces.
Wheelchair rentals are handled by West End Drug (105 Main St., Bar Harbor, 207/288-3318).
To plan your Acadia trip in advance, order an Access Pass online, then download the accessibility information from the park’s website (www.nps.gov/acad/accessibility.htm). If you’re reserving a campsite at the Blackwoods Campground online (www.recreation.gov), you’ll need the Access Pass beforehand.
For additional accessibility information, call 207/288-3338 (voice) or 207/288-8800 (TTY). For emergencies in the park or elsewhere on Mount Desert Island, dial 911.
While newer properties must meet the strict standards of the Americans with Disabilities Act, older and historic lodgings and restaurants often don’t have accessible rooms or facilities. It’s wise to ask detailed questions pertaining to your needs before booking a room or making a restaurant reservation.
There’s too much to do and see in Acadia National Park to spend even a few hours laid low by illness or mishap. Be sensible—get enough sleep, wear sunscreen and appropriate clothing, know your limits and don’t take foolhardy risks, heed weather and warning signs, carry water and snacks while hiking, don’t overindulge in food or alcohol, always tell someone where you’re going, and watch your step. If you’re traveling with children, quadruple your caution.
Even though Maine’s public transportation network is woefully inadequate, and the crime rate is one of the lowest in the nation, it’s still risky to hitchhike or pick up hitchhikers.
In the event of any emergency, dial 911.
The hospital in this region is Blue Hill Memorial Hospital (57 Water St., Blue Hill, 207/374-3400, emergency 207/374-2836).
Hospitals are Maine Coast Memorial Hospital (50 Union St., Ellsworth, 207/664-5311 or 888/645-8829, emergency 207/664-5340) and Mount Desert Island Hospital (10 Wayman Ln., Bar Harbor, 207/288-5081).
Nontraditional health-care options are available on Mount Desert Island as well as on the Blue Hill Peninsula and Deer Isle. After some overambitious hiking or biking expeditions, a massage might be in order. Holistic practitioners as well as certified massage therapists and acupuncturists are listed in the yellow pages of local phone books, and most accommodations can make referrals. Also check the bulletin boards and talk to the managers at local health-food stores. They always know where to find homeopathic doctors.
The major pharmacy chain in and near Acadia is Rite Aid. Hannaford supermarkets also have pharmacy departments, and some towns have an independent drug store, such as West End Drug (105 Main St., Bar Harbor, 207/288-3318). All carry prescription and over-the-counter medications. There are no round-the-clock pharmacies. Some independent pharmacists post emergency numbers on their doors and will go out of their way to help, but your best bet for a middle-of-the-night medication crisis is the hospital emergency room.
If you take regular medications, be sure to pack an adequate supply as well as a new prescription in case you lose your medicine or unexpectedly need a refill. It’s also wise to travel with a list of any prescriptions taken, in case of emergency.
If you plan to spend any time outdoors in Maine April-November, take precautions, especially when hiking, to avoid annoying insect bites and especially the diseases carried by tiny deer ticks (not the larger dog ticks; they don’t carry it): Lyme disease, anaplasmosis, and babesiosis. Powassan, carried by the woodchuck tick, is so far extremely rare. Mosquito-borne eastern equine encephalitis has been found in mosquitoes twice in Maine, once in 2014 and once in 2015. The type of mosquitoes carrying the Zika virus are not in Maine.
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long pants, and tuck pant legs into your socks. Light-colored clothing makes ticks easier to spot. Buy insect repellent with DEET at a supermarket or convenience store and use it liberally; apply permethrin to clothing. Not much daunts the blackflies of spring and early summer, but you can lower your appeal by not using perfume, aftershave lotion, or scented shampoo and by wearing light-colored clothing.
After any hike or prolonged time outdoors in the woods, thick grass, overgrown bushes, or piles of brush or leaves, check for ticks—especially behind the knees and in the armpits, navel, and groin. If you find one, there’s a good chance the tick was infected with Lyme disease, a bacterial infection that causes fever, head and body aches, and fatigue and can lead to joint pain and neurological and heart problems. It usually takes 24-48 hours before an attached tick begins to transmit the disease. About 80 percent of Lyme patients get a bull’s-eye rash that appears within a month of being bit. Anaplasmosis and babesiosis also exhibit flu-like symptoms. Anaplasmosis can, in rare circumstances, lead to encephalitis/meningitis; babesiosis can cause anemia and dark urine and is especially problematic for those with weakened immune systems or who have had their spleen removed.
If bitten by a tick, wash the area thoroughly with soap and water and apply an antiseptic, mark the date on a calendar, and then monitor your health. If you suspect any of these diseases, see a doctor to be diagnosed and treated immediately; don’t put it off. For more information, contact the Maine Center for Disease Control (800/821-5821, www.mainepublichealth.gov).
If you’re bitten by any animal, especially one acting suspiciously, head for the nearest hospital emergency room. For statewide information about rabies, contact the Maine Center for Disease Control (800/821-5821, www.mainepublichealth.gov).
If your medical history includes extreme allergies to shellfish or beestings, you know the risks of eating a lobster or wandering around a wildflower meadow. However, if you come from a landlocked area and are new to crustaceans, you might not be aware of the potential hazard. Statistics indicate that less than 2 percent of adults have a severe shellfish allergy, but for those victims, the reaction can set in quickly. Immediate treatment is needed to keep the airways open. If you have a history of severe allergic reactions to anything, be prepared when you come to the Maine coast dreaming of lobster feasts. Ask your doctor for a prescription for EpiPen (epinephrine), a preloaded, single-use syringe containing 0.3 mg of the drug—enough to tide you over until you can get to a hospital.
If you’re planning to do any boating in Maine—particularly sailing—you’ll want to be prepared. (Being prepared may in fact keep you from succumbing, since fear of seasickness just about guarantees you’ll get it.) Talk to a pharmacist or doctor about your options.
Wind and weather can shift dramatically in Maine, especially at higher elevations, creating prime conditions for contracting hypothermia and frostbite. At risk are hikers, swimmers, canoeists, kayakers, sailors, skiers, even cyclists.
To prevent hypothermia and frostbite, dress in layers and remove or add them as needed. Wool, waterproof fabrics (such as Gore-Tex), and synthetic fleece (such as Polartec) are the best fabrics for repelling dampness. Polyester fleece lining wicks excess moisture away from your body. Especially in winter, always cover your head, since body heat escapes quickly through the head; a ski mask will protect ears and nose. Wear wool- or fleece-lined gloves and wool socks.
During Maine’s fall hunting season (Oct.-Thanksgiving)—and especially during the November deer season—walk or hike only in wooded areas marked No Hunting, No Trespassing, or Posted. And even if an area is closed to hunters, don’t decide to explore the woods during deer or moose season without wearing a blaze-orange (eye-poppingly fluorescent) jacket or vest. If you take your dog along, be sure it wears an orange vest too. Hunting is illegal on Sunday.
During hunting season, moose and deer are on the move and are made understandably skittish by the hunters invading their turf. Moose are primarily found inland, but deer are everywhere, and even the occasional moose strays into coastal areas of Maine. At night, particularly in wooded areas, these huge creatures often end up alongside or on the roads, so ratchet up your defensive-driving skills. Reduce your normal speed, use high beams when there’s no oncoming traffic, and remain extra alert. In a moose-versus-car encounter, no one wins, and human fatalities are common. An encounter between a deer and a car may be less dangerous to the humans (although the deer usually dies), but some damage to the vehicle is inevitable.
Since Acadia National Park lies above the 44th parallel, sunstroke is not a major problem, but don’t push your luck by spending an entire day frying on Sand Beach or the granite shoreline. Not only do you risk sunstroke and dehydration, but you’re also asking for skin cancer down the road. Early in the season, slather yourself, and especially children, with plenty of PABA-free sunblock (PABA can cause skin rashes and eruptions, even on people not abnormally sensitive). If you’re in the water a long time, slather on some more. Start with 15-30 minutes of solar exposure and increase gradually each day. When you’re hiking, carry water. If you don’t get it right, watch for symptoms of sunstroke: fever, profuse sweating, headache, nausea or vomiting, extreme thirst, and sometimes hallucinations. To treat someone for sunstroke, find a breezy spot and place a cold, wet cloth on the victim’s forehead. Change the cloth frequently so it stays cold. Offer lots of liquids—strong tea or coffee, fruit juice, water, or soft drinks, and no alcohol.
Typical banking hours are 9am-3pm Monday-Friday, occasionally with later hours on Friday. Drive-up windows at many banks tend to open as much as an hour earlier and stay open an hour or so after lobbies close. Some banks also maintain Saturday-morning hours. Automated teller machines (ATMs) are found throughout Maine.
Bank credit cards have become so preferred and so prevalent that it’s nearly impossible to rent a car or check into a hotel without one. MasterCard and Visa are the most widely accepted in Maine, and Discover and American Express are the next most popular; Carte Blanche, Diners Club, and EnRoute (Canadian) lag far behind. Be aware, however, that small restaurants (including lobster pounds), shops, and bed-and-breakfasts off the beaten track might not accept credit cards or nonlocal personal checks; you may need to settle your account with cash.
Maine charges a 5.5 percent sales tax on general purchases and services; 8 percent on prepared foods, candy, and alcohol; 9 percent on lodging/camping; and 10 percent on auto rentals.
Tip 15-20 percent of the pretax bill in restaurants.
Taxi drivers expect a 15 percent tip, more if handling luggage or handling special requests; airport porters expect at least $1 per bag, depending on the difficulty of the job.
The usual tip for housekeeping services in accommodations is $1-5 per person per night, depending upon the level of service. It’s not necessary to tip at bed-and-breakfasts if the owners do the housekeeping.
Some accommodations add a 10-15-percent service fee to rates.
The Maine Office of Tourism (888/624-6345, www.visitmaine.com) has an excellent website with articles, photos, and links to tourism-related businesses. The state also operates information centers in Calais, Fryeburg (May-Oct.), Hampden, Houlton, Kittery, and Yarmouth. These are excellent places to visit to stock up on brochures, pick up a map, ask for advice, and use restrooms.
The Maine Tourism Association (207/623-0363, www.mainetourism.com) also has information and publishes Maine Invites You and a free state map.
Maine still has only one telephone area code, 207. For directory assistance, dial 411.
Cell phone towers are now sprinkled pretty much throughout Maine; only a few pockets—mostly down peninsulas and in remote valleys and hollows—are out of cell-phone range. Of course, reception also varies by carrier, and getting it often requires doing the cell-phone hokey pokey—putting your left arm out, your right leg in, and so on to find the strongest signal.
Internet access is available widely.