Merrill’s Fall


THE WEEK AHEAD

THE RECIPES

Rosy Chicken

Roasted Zucchini with Chile and Mint

Warm Chicken Salad

Baked Pasta with Sausage Ragù

Baked Sweet Potato with Sausage Ragù

Applesauce Cake with Caramel Icing

Roasted Applesauce

Apple Fool

The Best Red Wine Vinaigrette

Simple Baked Rice

Oven-Roasted Polenta


HOW THEY COME TOGETHER

DINNER ONE

Baked Pasta with Sausage Ragù

Green salad with The Best Red Wine Vinaigrette

Applesauce Cake with Caramel Icing

TO DO TODAY Set out the vinaigrette to come to room temperature. Assemble and bake the pasta. Dress the salad right before you sit down to eat, adding chopped basil or chives if you have extra.

DINNER TWO

Rosy Chicken

Oven-Roasted Polenta

Roasted Zucchini with Chile and Mint

Greek yogurt with Roasted Applesauce

TO DO TODAY Make the zucchini. Reheat the polenta and the chicken. Top yogurt with spoonfuls of applesauce for dessert.

DINNER THREE

Sausage Ragù

Oven-Roasted Polenta

Roasted Zucchini with Chile and Mint

Applesauce Cake with Caramel Icing

TO DO TODAY Bring the zucchini to room temperature. Reheat the polenta and the sausage ragù. Serve the ragù over the polenta and pass Parmesan at the table.

DINNER FOUR

Rosy Chicken

Simple Baked Rice

Green salad with The Best Red Wine Vinaigrette

Chocolate and prune plums

TO DO TODAY Make the rice and reheat the chicken. Dress the salad. Pass some good chocolate and fresh prune plums (or pears) for dessert.

DINNER FIVE

Warm Chicken Salad

Apple Fool

TO DO TODAY Whip the cream for the apple fool and refrigerate. Make the chicken salad. Assemble the fool right before dessert.

BROWN BAG LUNCHES

Baked Sweet Potato with Sausage Ragù

Roasted Zucchini with Chile and Mint with Greek yogurt and pita



GAME PLAN

TO MAKE OVER THE WEEKEND

Rosy Chicken

Baked Pasta with Sausage Ragù

Oven-Roasted Polenta

Roasted Applesauce

Applesauce Cake with Caramel Icing


PUT ON YOUR APRON—WE’RE MAKING SAUCE

You’ll be hunkered down in the kitchen for about 3 hours this weekend.

Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Peel and cut up the apples for the applesauce. Roast them.

Get the sausage ragù on the stove. Grate the cheeses for the baked pasta and refrigerate.

When the applesauce is out of the oven, turn it down to 350°F (175°C). Get the polenta roasting. You’re using a slightly higher temperature than Amanda’s recipe calls for, so make sure to check it frequently and add more water as necessary.

Butter and flour the pan for the cake.

Puree enough roasted apples to make 1½ cups (355ml) of applesauce for the cake. Freeze 1½ cups (355ml) of apples for the future (for the brown sugar pound cake, for example) and refrigerate the rest for later this week.

Make the batter for the cake and put it in the oven.

While the cake bakes, wash and dry your salad greens for the week and put them in the fridge. Scrub the potatoes and put them on to boil.

Make the vinaigrette. Prepare the rosy chicken and chicken thighs for the warm chicken salad.

When the cake is done, put the rosy chicken and the chicken thighs in the oven.

Take a little break—you’re nearly there!

When the cake is cool, make the icing and pour it over the top.

Put everything in the fridge and go ask your partner/child/next-door neighbor for a foot rub.

To scale back. Skip the baked pasta and polenta; serve the ragù over pasta one night and over baked sweet potatoes another. Use good store-bought applesauce for the cake, and skip the icing (the cake will still be good). These shortcuts will save you about 1½ hours.



GROCERY LIST

PRODUCE

Apples (such as Golden Delicious, Macoun, or Honeycrisp), 6 pounds (2.7kg)

Baby white potatoes, 1 pound (450g)

Garlic, 9 large cloves

Prune plums (or pears), for dessert

Red leaf or Bibb lettuce, 6 cups (120g)

Salad greens, enough for a side salad in 2 meals

Sweet potatoes, 4 for lunch

Cherry tomatoes, 2 cups (300g)

Fresh or canned chopped tomatoes, 8 cups (1.4kg fresh/2.5kg canned)

Tomatoes, 2 large

Yellow onions, 2 large

Zucchini and/or summer squash, 9

HERBS

Basil leaves, 16

Chives, 1 tablespoon chopped

Mint leaves, ½ cup (10g) loosely packed

Thyme, 3 sprigs

SPICES

Ground allspice, ¼ teaspoon

Ground cinnamon, 2 teaspoons, plus more to have on hand

Ground ginger, 1 teaspoon

Red pepper flakes, ½ teaspoon plus a pinch

PANTRY

Chicken stock, 1½ cups (355ml)

Coarsely ground polenta, 2 cups (320g)

Extra-virgin olive oil, 2½ cups (590ml), plus more to have on hand

Long-grain white rice, 1 cup (185g)

Red wine vinegar, 6 tablespoons (90ml)

Sherry vinegar, 6 tablespoons (90ml)

Short pasta (such as penne or small shells), 1 pound (450g)

Vegetable oil, ⅔ cup (160ml)

BAKING AISLE

All-purpose flour, 2 cups (250g)

Baking soda, 1½ teaspoons

Good chocolates, for dessert

Confectioners’ sugar, ¾ to 1 cup (90 to 125g) sifted

Dark brown sugar, ½ cup (110g) firmly packed

Light brown sugar, ½ cup (110g) firmly packed

Sugar, 1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (200g)

Pure vanilla extract, 1 teaspoon

DAIRY AND EGGS

Unsalted butter, ¾ cup (170g), plus more to have on hand

Eggs, 2

Fresh ricotta, ¼ cup (60g)

Greek yogurt, 3 cups (710ml)

Heavy cream, 1⅓ cups (315ml), plus more for whipped cream

Mozzarella, 1 cup (110g) grated

Parmesan, ½ cup (50g) grated from a wedge

MEAT AND SEAFOOD

Bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs or legs, 6 pounds (2.7kg)

Your favorite sausage (chicken or pork, sweet or hot), 2 pounds (900g)

BOOZE AND SUCH

Dry, fruity rosé, ⅔ cup (160ml)

BAKED GOODS

Pita, for lunch


Rosy Chicken

This dish was inspired by a recipe from Jamie Oliver for slow-roasted chicken legs with garlic, tomatoes, and chopped chiles. After devouring his version, I considered the thought that it might be even better with a sauce to spoon over rice or drag hunks of bread through. A rummage in the fridge unearthed a half-empty bottle of rosé from the night before, so I added a slosh or two. The garlic and tomatoes melted into the wine in the oven, and voilà, I had a fragrant pink sauce for my chicken.

Wine Trade If you don’t have rosé, use a dry, fruity white wine instead. No one will know the difference. And if you open a bottle to make the dish, why not serve the rest of it with dinner?

A Rosé Dessert from Amanda “A good use of leftover rosé is to simmer it with sugar (4 parts rosé to 3 parts sugar) to make a syrup. Poach peaches or pears in the rosé syrup with a handful of fresh basil (which you already have on hand for the sausage ragù).”

SERVES 4 FOR 2 DINNERS

4 pounds (1.8kg) bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs or legs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

6 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 large tomatoes (about 12 ounces), chopped

2 cups (300g) cherry tomatoes

3 thyme sprigs

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

10 fresh basil leaves, chopped

⅔ cup (160ml) dry, fruity rosé

Rice, Oven-Roasted Polenta, or crusty bread for serving

1 Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

2 Put 1 tablespoon of olive oil, the garlic, and the chopped tomatoes in a baking dish large enough to hold all of the chicken in one layer. Arrange the chicken, skin side up, on top. Scatter the cherry tomatoes over the chicken, tucking them into the crevices wherever they’ll fit.

3 Add the thyme sprigs to the dish and sprinkle the pepper flakes and basil evenly over the chicken, followed by more salt and pepper. Pour the rosé gently into the crevices, being careful not to splash the chicken. Drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over everything.

4 Bake the chicken, uncovered, until the skin is crisp and the tomatoes have slackened and started to caramelize, about 1 hour.

5 If the sauce seems thin, transfer the chicken to a plate and turn up the heat for a few minutes; let the sauce boil until it thickens and becomes glossy. Discard the thyme sprigs, taste, and adjust the seasoning.

6 Return the chicken to the sauce and let cool. Cover and refrigerate in the pan for up to 5 days.

7 The day of: Reheat the chicken in the pan in a 250°F (120°C) oven for about 20 minutes. Serve with rice, polenta, or crusty bread.

Roasted Zucchini with Chile and Mint

This recipe was born of two different sources. The first is a dish I used to order frequently at one of my favorite restaurants, Lunetta, before it closed (sniff). The second is a method for roasting zucchini from one of Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton’s envy-inducing daily e-mails, Canal House Cooks Lunch. In order to coax maximum flavor into the zucchini (like eggplant, it’s basically a sponge), I drizzle on a mint and chile dressing before roasting, and then splash on some more once the zucchini is cooked.

Our Favorite Kind of Recipe This is one of those magical dishes that can be eaten at any temperature. And the iterations are endless. Here are some more recipes that can bend and flex the same way.

Jonathan’s Roasted Asparagus

Blistered Cherry Tomatoes

Farro Salad with Roasted Mushrooms and Parmesan)

Grilled Shrimp with Arugula and Garlic Scape Pesto

Roasted Applesauce

Spicy Roasted Cauliflower

Braised Fennel

Roasted Brussels Sprouts

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE FOR 2 DINNERS, PLUS LEFTOVERS

CHILE-MINT DRESSING

½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil

5 tablespoons (75ml) sherry vinegar

⅛ teaspoon sugar

Pinch of red pepper flakes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup (10g) loosely packed fresh mint leaves

ZUCCHINI

9 small zucchini and/or summer squash (all the same size)

1 Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Combine the olive oil, vinegar, sugar, pepper flakes, salt, and pepper in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Screw on the lid and shake vigorously. Coarsely chop the mint, add it to the dressing, and shake again. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

2 Trim the ends off the zucchini and halve them lengthwise. Arrange them cut side up in a large, shallow baking dish (or two if you don’t have one big enough to fit them in a single layer). Sprinkle lightly with salt and drizzle half of the dressing over the zucchini. Roast until they’re just tender when you pierce them with a sharp knife, about 40 minutes.

3 Heat the broiler and position the rack about 5 inches (13cm) from the flame. Broil the zucchini until browned, 3 to 5 minutes, watching carefully and rotating the dish if necessary to make sure the zucchini browns evenly. Let it cool for a few minutes and then spoon some more dressing over the top. Refrigerate the rest of the dressing for salads later this week, up to 5 days. Serve the zucchini immediately and refrigerate the leftovers in a container for up to 4 days.

4 The day of: Bring the zucchini to room temperature before serving, or eat it cold.

Warm Chicken Salad

The second night of roast chicken is often a disappointment. The skin is no longer as crisp, the meat not quite as juicy. My father lives for a cold chicken sandwich on white bread with butter, but I just can’t get jazzed about it. My mother has an excellent remedy for the leftover roast chicken problem: She warms the meat in a pan with a simple vinaigrette and tosses in some cut-up cooked potatoes if she has them. She spoons it all over a bed of soft lettuces, which wilt just slightly when they’re hit with the warm chicken juices and vinaigrette. This salad is so good, you might even roast some chicken just to make it, as I’ve done for this menu.

SERVES 4

2 pounds (900g) chicken thighs, bone in and skin on (or 3 cups/405g leftover roast chicken)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil

6 cups (120g) red leaf or Bibb lettuce, torn into large bite-size pieces

1 cup (225g) boiled potatoes, cut into chunks or slices

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

1 Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Pat the chicken dry and season well with salt and pepper. Lay the chicken, skin side up, on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 1 hour, until the chicken is tender and the skin is crisp and brown. Cool slightly and store in the fridge for up to 5 days.

2 The day of: In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar with ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking constantly. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

3 Arrange a bed of lettuce on a platter. Remove the cooked chicken from the bones and shred into bite-size pieces (including the skin).

4 Put half of the vinaigrette in a large heavy nonreactive pan over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the chicken and potatoes. Cook, turning gently with a spatula from time to time, until the chicken and potatoes are warmed through, 3 to 5 minutes.

5 Drizzle a few spoonfuls of the remaining vinaigrette over the lettuce and then pile the chicken and potatoes on top. Sprinkle the chives over everything and serve immediately, with the rest of the vinaigrette on the side.

Salad Days We eat a lot of salad, so there are a lot of salad dressings in this book—one for any mood that strikes you. Here they are, all in one place.

Lemon Dressing

The Best Red Wine Vinaigrette

Roberta’s Roasted Garlic Dressing

Preserved Lemon Dressing

Lemon Mustard Dressing

Chile-Mint Dressing

Onion Confit Vinaigrette

Simple Lemon Dressing

Creamy Mustard Vinaigrette

Anchovy Dressing

Lime Dressing



Boiled Potatoes

Here’s a great recipe to outsource to the less experienced cooks in your house. Rinse 1 pound (450g) of baby white potatoes. Put them in a large saucepan, cover with 2 inches (5cm) of water, and generously season the water with salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer until just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and store in the fridge for up to a week.

Baked Pasta with Sausage Ragù

I went to college in Providence, Rhode Island, and Al Forno’s baked pasta is the best I’ve come across. I’ve leaned on their technique many times, adding everything from butternut squash to mushrooms to asparagus. My kids’ favorite version has sausage, three kinds of cheese, and enough heavy cream to make Julia Child blush. The crisp, burnished top is perfection.

Reheating Leftovers I’d be lying if I told you that after you reheat this pasta it will have the same structural integrity. If that bothers you, assemble half the recipe and save the rest of the ingredients for another night. If you’re okay with slightly mushy, less saucy baked pasta, make the whole recipe, cover the leftovers in foil right in the pan, and reheat (covered) in a 350°F (175°C) oven for about 20 minutes.

SERVES 4 FOR 2 DINNERS, WITH PLENTY OF EXTRA RAGÙ

SAUSAGE RAGÙ

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds (900g) your favorite sausage (chicken or pork, sweet or hot), removed from the casings

1 large yellow onion, diced

Kosher salt

2 fat cloves garlic, finely chopped

8 cups (1.4kg/2.5kg) fresh or canned chopped tomatoes (preferably Pomi)

6 fresh basil leaves

BAKED PASTA

Soft butter, for the baking dish

1 cup (240ml) heavy cream

1 cup (110g) grated mozzarella

½ cup (50g) grated Parmesan

¼ cup (60g) fresh ricotta

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 pound (450g) short pasta (such as penne or small shells)

2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

1 To make the ragù, warm the olive oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Brown the sausage, breaking it up as it cooks, about 5 minutes.

2 Clear a spot in the middle of the pan and add the onion and a couple pinches of salt. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.

3 Stir in the tomatoes and basil and simmer until the sauce thickens and the flavors meld, at least 45 minutes. (Add a little water if the sauce looks dry.) Taste and adjust the seasoning and discard the basil. Store in the fridge for up to 5 days.

4 The day of: Heat the oven to 500°F (260°C). Butter a shallow 2-quart (1.9L) baking dish and bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

5 In a large bowl, combine the 4 cups (950ml) ragù with the heavy cream, mozzarella, Parmesan, ricotta, and salt.

6 Cook the pasta for 3 minutes, then drain and run it under cold water to stop the cooking. Add the pasta to the bowl, tossing gently to combine.

7 Spread the pasta evenly into the baking dish. Scatter the cubed butter over the top.

8 Bake until bubbly and brown, about 10 minutes. Cool slightly before serving. Reserve half for later in the week—right in the baking dish, or transfer to a container.



Lunch: Baked Sweet Potato with Sausage Ragù

For a hearty lunch or dinner, reheat leftover ragù and a baked sweet potato in the microwave. Split the potato in half, scuff up its middle with a fork, and season with salt and pepper. Mound the ragù onto the potato, drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, and eat!

Applesauce Cake with Caramel Icing

Whether they admit it, all cooks have one recipe they’re most proud of. This is mine. It’s a simple cake, but because of the caramel glaze, it’s pretty enough for guests. If you’re missing allspice, don’t fret. Add a pinch of ground cloves or press on without it.

SERVES 4 FOR 2 TO 3 DESSERTS

CAKE

2 cups (250g) all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

2 eggs

1 cup (200g) sugar

½ cup (110g) firmly packed dark brown sugar

1½ cups (405g) roasted applesauce or good store-bought unsweetened applesauce

⅔ cup (160ml) vegetable oil

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

ICING

¼ cup (60g) butter, cut into cubes

½ cup (110g) firmly packed light brown sugar

⅓ cup (80ml) heavy cream, plus more as needed

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

¾ to 1 cup (90 to 125g) sifted confectioners’ sugar

1 To make the cake, heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter and flour a 12-cup (3L) Bundt pan. Sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, pepper, cinnamon, ginger, and allspice into a bowl. Using another bowl and a handheld electric mixer—or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment—beat the eggs and sugars until light, about 3 minutes. Add the applesauce, oil, and vanilla and beat until smooth.

2 Fold in the dry ingredients until just combined. Pour the batter into the Bundt pan and bake for about 45 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack and let cool for 10 minutes. Invert the cake onto the rack and let cool completely, about 2 hours, before you make the glaze.

3 Put a piece of aluminum foil or parchment paper under the rack to catch any drips. To make the icing, in a saucepan, combine the butter, brown sugar, cream, and salt and cook over medium heat. Bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Boil for 1 minute exactly and turn off the heat.

4 Let the glaze cool in the pan for a minute, then gradually whisk in the confectioners’ sugar until you have a thick but pourable glaze (you may not need all of the sugar). If the mixture seems too thick, add a splash of cream. Pour the glaze quickly over the cake, covering as much surface area as possible. Let the glaze set for at least 10 minutes before storing in an airtight container for up to 5 days.



Roasted Applesauce

Applesauce is applesauce, right? Judy Rodgers, the Zuni Café chef known for her impeccable palate and lack of fussiness, knew better. To make her delicious roasted applesauce, peel, core, and coarsely chop about 10 large apples (I like Golden Delicious, Macoun, or Honeycrisp)—you want 6 pounds (2.7kg) chopped apples. Toss with a pinch of kosher salt and 1½ teaspoons sugar. Spread the apples on rimmed baking sheets and cover with aluminum foil. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until soft, 30 to 40 minutes. Uncover and raise the heat to 500°F (260°C) to brown the apples for a few minutes. Mash them with the back of a fork until you have a chunky applesauce (about 5 cups/700g). Puree enough to make 1½ cups (405g) for the applesauce cake, freeze 1½ cups (210g) for the future, and store the rest in the fridge for up to a week.

Stretch Your Fruit Use this same technique for other fruits, such as pears, peaches, or plums. Spoon it over cake or Greek yogurt, or on top of ricotta toasts, without the garlic!



Apple Fool

For a charmingly old-fashioned dessert, whip heavy cream with a bit of sugar. Fold in an equal amount of cold applesauce and a little ground cinnamon and serve.


THE WEEK AHEAD

THE RECIPES

Broccoli, Lemon, and Parmesan Soup

Overnight Roast Pork

Barley Salad with Persimmon, Onion Confit, and Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Onion Confit Vinaigrette

Spicy Roasted Cauliflower

Bucatini with Cauliflower, Pecorino, Chile, and Bread Crumbs

Escarole, Roasted Cauliflower, and Chickpeas with Onion Confit Vinaigrette

Braised Chickpeas with Celery

Brown Sugar Pound Cake with Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream

Roasted Applesauce


HOW THEY COME TOGETHER

DINNER ONE

Barley Salad with Persimmon, Onion Confit, and Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Braised Chickpeas with Celery

Spicy Roasted Cauliflower

Brown Sugar Pound Cake with Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream and Roasted Applesauce from the freezer

TO DO TODAY In the morning, move the applesauce from the freezer to the fridge. Bring the salad, chickpeas, and cauliflower to room temperature before serving. Warm half of the applesauce in the microwave and serve with cake and whipped cream.

DINNER TWO

Overnight Roast Pork

Spicy Roasted Cauliflower

Escarole with Onion Confit Vinaigrette

Affogato

TO DO TODAY Set out the onion confit oil to come to room temperature. Warm the pork and the cauliflower. Make the vinaigrette, then coarsely chop the escarole and dress it lightly. For the affogato, pour espresso over your favorite ice cream.

DINNER THREE

Broccoli, Lemon, and Parmesan Soup

Thinly sliced prosciutto

Crusty bread and good salted butter

Toasted Brown Sugar Pound Cake with ice cream

TO DO TODAY Heat the soup and squeeze in some lemon juice. Slice the bread. Toast slices of pound cake and top with ice cream for dessert.

DINNER FOUR

Overnight Roast Pork

Barley Salad with Persimmon, Onion Confit, and Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Apples with cheese and honey

TO DO TODAY Warm the pork and bring the barley salad to room temperature. Slice some apples and serve with cheese and honey for dessert.

DINNER FIVE

Bucatini with Cauliflower, Pecorino, Chile, and Bread Crumbs

Greek yogurt with Roasted Applesauce and honey

TO DO TODAY Make the pasta. Spoon applesauce and honey over yogurt for dessert.

BROWN BAG LUNCHES

Broccoli, Lemon, and Parmesan Soup, with cheese and crackers

Roast pork with barbecue sauce and pickles on brioche rolls

Escarole, Roasted Cauliflower, and Chickpeas with Onion Confit Vinaigrette



GAME PLAN

TO MAKE OVER THE WEEKEND

Broccoli, Lemon, and Parmesan Soup

Overnight Roast Pork

Barley Salad with Persimmon, Onion Confit, and Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Spicy Roasted Cauliflower

Braised Chickpeas with Celery

Brown Sugar Pound Cake with Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream


READY TO GIVE YOUR OVEN A WORKOUT?

This weekend you’ll be in the kitchen for about 3½ hours of active cooking time—welcome back, slow cooking!

The night before, soak the barley for the salad. If you’re using dried chickpeas, get them soaking as well. Or use the quick-soak method the next day.

Cut 1 cup (225g) unsalted butter for the pound cake into chunks and set out to soften.

Drain the barley and set it on to boil. Start the quick soak for the chickpeas if you didn’t soak them yesterday.

Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C) and get the cauliflower roasting.

Start sautéing the garlic for the soup. Cut the broccoli for the soup into florets and trim, peel, and chop the stems. Add the broccoli to the pot, cover, and let it do its thing for an hour or so.

Start the onion confit for the barley salad.

When the cauliflower is done, lower the temperature to 350°F (175°C). Make the pound cake and put it in the oven.

Toast the almonds for the barley salad alongside the cake.

Start braising the chickpeas and put a pot of water on to boil for the persimmons.

Drain and cool the barley. Blanch and peel the persimmons. Cool the onion confit.

Add the chicken stock to the broccoli soup; simmer for a few minutes, then remove from the heat.

Make the crème fraîche whipped cream for the pound cake and refrigerate.

Puree the broccoli soup and add the Parmesan and lemon juice. Let the soup cool.

Wash and spin dry the escarole and put it in the fridge.

Strain the onion confit and assemble the barley salad.

Put everything in the fridge, clean up, and take a break until it’s time to cook the pork.

An hour or two before bed, set the pork butt out at room temperature. Tie it with twine and salt it all over. Stir together the paste for the pork and keep it covered at room temperature.

About 30 minutes before bed, heat the oven to 475°F (245°C). Rub the pork with the paste and put it in the oven. After 15 minutes, cover it, turn down the temperature to 200°F (95°C) and head for bed. Zzzzzz…

To steal some time back. Skip the broccoli soup and pound cake, use canned chickpeas, and make a batch of plain barley instead of the full salad. Toss some of the barley with the chickpeas and cauliflower one night for a main course (maybe add some soft-boiled eggs), and serve the rest as a side for the pork for another dinner. Supplement with takeout one night this week. The truncated plan will take you about 1½ hours.



GROCERY LIST

PRODUCE

Apples, for dessert

Arugula, 3 ounces (85g)

Broccoli, 4 pounds (1.8kg)

Cauliflower, 4½ pounds (2kg) (about 2 large heads)

Celery, 12 ounces (340g)

Escarole, for side salad and lunch

Fuyu persimmons, 2

Garlic, 13 large cloves

Lemons, 2

Limes, 3

Yellow onions, 4 large

HERBS

Bay leaf, 1

Flat-leaf parsley, 1½ cups (30g) chopped and loosely packed

Thyme, 1 sprig plus 1½ teaspoons of leaves

SPICES

Cayenne, 1¼ teaspoons

Garlic powder, 1 teaspoon

Ground chipotle, ⅛ to ¼ teaspoon

Ground ginger, ½ teaspoon

Red pepper flakes, a large pinch

Sweet smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon

PANTRY

Barbecue sauce, for lunch

Bucatini (or spaghetti), 1 pound (450g)

Chickpeas, 5 cups (830g) cooked or 3 (15-ounce/425g) cans

Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon

Espresso, for dessert

Extra-virgin olive oil, 2¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons (530ml), plus more to have on hand

Homemade or low-sodium chicken stock, 8 cups (1.9L)

Honey, for dessert

Hulled barley, 1¾ cups (320g)

Maple syrup, ¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon (60ml)

Pickles, for lunch

Red wine vinegar, ¼ cup (60ml)

Flaky salt

Sherry vinegar, ½ cup (120ml)

Wheat crackers, for lunch

BAKING AISLE

All-purpose flour, 1¾ cups (220g), plus more to have on hand

Almonds, 1½ cups (210g)

Baking powder, ½ teaspoon

Light brown sugar, 1⅔ cups (335g) firmly packed

Pure vanilla extract, 1½ teaspoons

DAIRY AND EGGS

Good salted butter

Unsalted butter, 1 cup (225g)

Crème fraîche, ⅓ cup (80ml)

Eggs, 4

Heavy cream, ⅔ cup (160ml)

Parmesan, 1½ cups (150g) grated from a wedge

Pecorino, ¼ cup (25g) grated from a wedge, plus more for serving

Sheep (or goat) Gouda or another hard cheese like Pecorino or Manchego, 6 ounces (170g)

Your favorite cheese, for dessert

MEAT AND SEAFOOD

Boneless pork butt, 1 (5-pound/2.3kg)

BOOZE AND SUCH

Dry white wine, ½ cup (120ml)

FREEZER

Your favorite ice cream, for 2 desserts

BAKED GOODS

Brioche rolls, for lunch

Crusty bread, 2 loaves


Broccoli, Lemon, and Parmesan Soup

Kristen Miglore, our creative director, first introduced me to Roy Finamore’s Broccoli Cooked Forever and its magical transformation of a boring old crucifer into something lush and melting and complex. We got so hooked on the stuff that I started using it as a base for soup. I usually puree half of the soup, keeping the rest chunky, and I add enough lemon juice so that you can really taste it. Plenty of Parmesan makes the soup rich and savory. Don’t forget some good, crusty bread to wipe your bowl clean!

To Puree or Not to Puree If I’m in a rush, I sometimes skip pureeing. If I want to be fancy, I puree all of the soup and dollop a little crème fraîche on top.

SERVES 4 FOR 2 DINNERS

½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil

6 fat cloves garlic, smashed

4 pounds (1.8kg) broccoli, cut into florets and stems trimmed, peeled, and chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 cups (1.9L) homemade or low-sodium chicken stock

1½ cups (150g) grated Parmesan

Juice from 1 or 2 lemons

Crusty bread, for serving

1 Combine the olive oil and garlic in a 6- to 8-quart (5.7 to 7.5L) Dutch oven and sauté over very low heat for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the garlic softens and starts to turn golden.

2 Add the broccoli to the pot, season with salt and pepper, and stir to coat with the oil. Cover, turn the heat as low as it will go, and cook for about an hour, gently stirring from time to time, until the broccoli yields when you press it with the back of a wooden spoon. The garlic and broccoli will probably brown a little—don’t worry, this is a good thing.

3 Add the chicken stock and simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the soup cool a bit.

4 Puree half of the soup using a blender or food processor. Pour the pureed soup back into the pot and add the Parmesan and lemon juice to taste. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Cool slightly, transfer to lidded containers, and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

5 The day of: Reheat gently on the stove over low heat, adding another squeeze of lemon juice. Serve with plenty of crusty bread.

Overnight Roast Pork

This roast pork came about by accident. I found a beautiful pork butt at the farmers’ market on a Sunday morning and set my sights on pork tacos. I didn’t realize until I got home that the roast was frozen solid. After thirty hours in the fridge, it had finally thawed, but by then it was Monday night and I didn’t have time to make the taco filling before bed. I’d heard that you can cook a pork roast overnight, and a quick Google search told me that Jamie Oliver is a believer. If he’s on board, that’s good enough for me. I made a quick paste of garlic, brown sugar, mustard, thyme, and spices and slathered the pork with it. I gave it a quick blast in a scorching oven to get some caramelization going, then turned the oven down as low as it would go, and went upstairs to bed. The next morning, we woke in a cloud of garlic, sugar, and pork aroma—like bacon on steroids. The surface of the roast was burnished and crisp, and when I went at it with two forks, the meat virtually fell apart. Every accident should be this happy.

Buying Pork Pork has changed a lot over the years. Commercial pork is leaner than it used to be, making it less flavorful and prone to dryness. I typically don’t buy it a lot, except for the occasional sausage. Instead, I seek out local pork from small farms whenever possible. It may be a bit more expensive, but the taste is far superior. When you’re buying pork shoulder, look for a piece of meat with good marbling and a generous fat cap. You’ll taste the difference.

How Amanda Riffs “I make this pork shoulder as often as possible, and when I do, I sometimes change up the seasoning. I capitalize the spices and lowercase the sweetness by adding a tablespoon of smoked paprika in place of the chipotle and a large pinch of red pepper flakes, and omitting the maple syrup and brown sugar.”

SERVES 4 FOR 2 DINNERS, WITH LOTS OF LEFTOVERS

1 (5-pound/2.3kg) boneless pork butt (see buying tips)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup (75g) firmly packed light brown sugar

3 tablespoons maple syrup

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves

3 large cloves garlic, minced

⅛ to ¼ teaspoon ground chipotle (or use chili powder in a pinch)

1 Tie the pork with twine in several places so that it’s nice and compact. Place it on a plate or small baking sheet and season liberally with salt. Let it sit at room temperature for about an hour.

2 Combine the brown sugar, maple syrup, mustard, thyme, garlic, and ground chipotle in a small bowl. Add a couple pinches of salt and several grinds of pepper. Set aside.

3 Heat the oven to 475°F (245°C). Smear the sugar, mustard, and garlic mixture all over the pork, concentrating a good amount on the top of the roast, where the fat is. Nestle the pork (fat side up) into a roasting pan or cast iron baking dish just big enough to hold it. Put it in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until you start to smell garlic and sugar. Remove the pork from the oven and cover the pan tightly with foil. Return the pork to the oven and turn the heat down to 200°F (95°C).

4 Leave the pork in the oven overnight to cook for at least 8 hours and up to 10 hours. When you wake up, your house will smell amazing and the pork will be tender. Cover the roast with foil and keep it in the fridge for up to 5 days.

5 The day of: Slice or shred what you think you’ll need, put it in a covered baking dish, and reheat in a 200°F to 250°F (95°C to 120°C) oven.

Barley Salad with Persimmon, Onion Confit, and Sheep’s Milk Cheese

This dish comes from Food52’s test kitchen chef, Josh Cohen (you can see the finished dish). It’s what we serve for lunch to our most important visitors because we all love it so much. Josh says, “For me, the confit onions, almonds, and cheese remain a constant presence in this dish. But the arugula and persimmon can easily change: asparagus and hard-boiled eggs in the spring, or zucchini, corn, and basil in the summer.” The onion confit—and onion-scented oil it produces—are what put this salad over the top. I’ve got some suggestions below for how to make the most of any leftover oil. If you can’t find persimmons, you can use ripe pears, or try a cup of pomegranate arils.

SERVES 4 FOR 2 DINNERS, WITH EXTRA ONION OIL

SALAD

1¾ cups (320g) hulled barley

2 Fuyu persimmons

1 cup (140g) chopped toasted almonds

1 cup diced sheep (or goat) Gouda or another hard cheese like Pecorino or Manchego, about 6 ounces (170g)

¼ cup (60ml) red wine vinegar

3 ounces (85g) arugula

1 cup (20g) loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

ONION CONFIT

3 large yellow onions, diced

½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Soak the barley in plenty of cold water overnight.

2 Drain the barley and put it in a large saucepan. Add enough water to cover it by 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10cm) and add enough salt to make the water taste like saltwater. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer until tender, about 90 minutes.

3 Meanwhile, make the onion confit: Combine the onions and olive oil in a heavy pot and set over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring often, until the onions soften and turn translucent, about 5 minutes. Lower the heat so that the onions are gently simmering and continue to cook them until they’re soft, sweet, and caramelized, about 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and let them cool.

4 While the onions cook, blanch and peel the persimmons, as you would tomatoes. Cut them into bite-size pieces.

5 Drain the barley and spread it out on a rimmed baking sheet to cool. Once it’s cool, put it into a large mixing bowl.

6 Set a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl and pour the onion mixture into the strainer, catching the oil in the bowl. Add the onions to the barley, along with ¼ cup (60ml) of the oil. Stir to combine. If the salad seems dry, you can add more oil at the end.

7 Add the persimmons, almonds, cheese, and vinegar to the barley and stir to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add the arugula and parsley and stir to combine. Store in the fridge for up to 3 days. Keep the rest of the oil in the fridge for up to 10 days and use it to fry an egg or make salad dressing.

8 The day of: Remove the salad from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving and let it come to room temperature.



Onion Confit Vinaigrette

Use extra onion oil from the barley salad to flavor this simple fall vinaigrette: Combine 6 tablespoons (90ml) sherry vinegar, 4 teaspoons maple syrup, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, ½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons onion oil, and some freshly ground pepper in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Screw on the lid and shake vigorously until emulsified. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Keep in the fridge for up to 10 days. Makes 1 cup (240ml).

Spicy Roasted Cauliflower

In the fall and winter, roasting becomes my default cooking method—especially for vegetables. I can cook multiple things at once, and I don’t have to pay attention the way I do with things bubbling away on the stove. Broccoli and cauliflower are my workhorses because they happily absorb any flavors I throw at them. I switch up the marinade often so no one gets bored (try thyme, lemon juice, cumin, and pumpkin seed oil in place of 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in the recipe below), and I always add something acidic for brightness. You can apply the same basic rules to carrots, parsnips, potatoes, winter squash, what have you. (See finished dish.)

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE FOR 2 DINNERS, PLUS LEFTOVERS

½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika

1 teaspoon garlic powder

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ to 1 teaspoon cayenne, depending on your heat preference

4½ pounds (2kg) cauliflower (about 2 large heads), cut into florets

3 limes, halved

1 Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C). In a very large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, paprika, garlic powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and cayenne. Add the cauliflower and a few grinds of pepper, toss to coat, and spread on a rimmed baking sheet. (You may need to do this in batches.) Repeat with the second half of the ingredients.

2 Roast the cauliflower, turning once with a spatula, until tender and charred around the edges, about 30 minutes. Squeeze the limes over the cauliflower and toss. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Let cool and store in the fridge for up to 5 days.

3 The day of: Reheat the cauliflower on a baking sheet in a 300°F (150°C) oven for about 10 minutes, or serve at room temperature.



Bucatini with Cauliflower, Pecorino, Chile, and Bread Crumbs

For a quick weeknight dinner for 4, heat the oven to 425°F (220°C). In a food processor, combine 1 cup (110g) bread chunks and 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and pulse into coarse crumbs. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil and cook 1 pound (450g) bucatini (or spaghetti) until al dente. Meanwhile, gently heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet, add 2 finely chopped cloves of garlic, and cook until fragrant. Add 1½ cups (260g) coarsely chopped spicy roasted cauliflower and a large pinch of red pepper flakes and cook until heated through. Reserve ⅔ cup (160ml) of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and tip it into the pan with the cauliflower. Add ¼ cup (25g) grated Pecorino and a splash of the pasta water and toss to combine, adding more water as necessary to create a thin, glossy sauce. Toss with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and sprinkle the bread crumbs and more Pecorino over the pasta.

Amanda’s Thinking Ahead “I recommend making extra bread crumbs. Once you’ve had bread crumbs on pasta, you’ll find yourself reaching for them every time you cook pasta. They add an addictive wispy crunch.”



Lunch: Escarole, Roasted Cauliflower, and Chickpeas with Onion Confit Vinaigrette

Coarsely chop escarole and pack it up with some spicy roasted cauliflower, drained braised chickpeas, and chopped almonds. Pack some onion confit vinaigrette and some good wheaty crackers. Toss the salad with the dressing right before you eat.

Braised Chickpeas with Celery

My family is a bunch of card-carrying meat eaters. Sometimes, though, we need a breather. But even when I’m not cooking meat, I don’t have to let go of my favorite cooking method: the braise. Legumes take to braising like a bear to honey, swelling to plumpness as they absorb the flavorful liquid surrounding them and leaving just enough behind for a brothy sauce. I find chickpeas and celery to be a particularly happy flavor duo, especially when you introduce a little white wine to the mix. Most of the ingredients here are de rigueur, but I’ve sneaked in some ground ginger for a bit of zip.

Cooking Your Own Chickpeas Canned chickpeas are perfectly fine (as long as you rinse them well), but if you have the time, cooking your own is worth the effort—the flavor is just plain better. Cover dried chickpeas with plenty of cold water and let them soak overnight, or use the quick-soak method. Drain the chickpeas and put them in a large pot with 4 cups (950ml) water and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt for each cup of soaked chickpeas. (If you like, add some fresh herbs or a smashed clove of garlic.) Simmer for an hour or more, depending on how tender you want them. If you’re cooking the chickpeas further, like in the braised chickpeas, you might want to pull them off the heat sooner; if you’re using them for hummus or tossing them straight into a salad, make sure they’re very tender. Drained and cooled, cooked chickpeas will keep in the fridge for up to 5 days. Or freeze them for up to 6 months: Dry the chickpeas thoroughly on a kitchen towel, then spread them on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet in a single layer; freeze until hard, then transfer to a freezer-friendly zipper plastic bag or container and return to the freezer. If you freeze them this way, the chickpeas won’t stick together and you can dip into the freezer for only what you need. Note: 1 cup (200g) dried chickpeas makes about 2⅓ cups (385g) cooked.

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE FOR 2 DINNERS, PLUS LEFTOVERS

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 yellow onion, diced

12 ounces (340g) celery, diced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

¼ teaspoon cayenne

½ teaspoon ground ginger

1 thyme sprig

1 bay leaf

½ cup (120ml) dry white wine (or rosé, if you have some open)

5 cups (830g) cooked chickpeas (see tip) or 3 (15-ounce/425g) cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Warm the olive oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and garlic and cook until the onion starts to soften, about 4 minutes (if the vegetables begin to brown, lower the heat). Add the cayenne, ginger, thyme, and bay leaf, and cook for 1 minute. Add the wine and cook until the liquid is reduced by half.

2 Add the chickpeas and 1½ cups (355ml) water and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. If the mixture looks dry at any point, add a bit more water. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then discard the thyme and bay leaf. Cool and store the chickpeas in their cooking liquid in the fridge for up to 5 days.

3 The day of: Warm the chickpeas gently on the stovetop or in the microwave. Serve as a side or as a main dish over rice or polenta.

Brown Sugar Pound Cake with Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream

When I saw a recipe for brown sugar pound cake on the back of the Domino sugar box, I knew I had to make it right away. So I did, serving it with roasted peaches (this was in early August) and tangy crème fraîche whipped cream. The cake is denser than a standard pound cake with deep caramel notes. It plays nicely with most fruit, so use whatever is ripe and roast it (see the roasted applesauce) or serve it fresh.

Toast It Up By day 3 or 4, any pound cake you haven’t eaten will benefit from a little TLC. Amanda has a brilliant recipe for toasted cake with ice cream. Or for something a little less sweet, toast a thin slice of pound cake and spread it with salted butter. With a cup of tea, it’s the perfect pick-me-up.

SERVES 4 FOR 2 DINNERS

POUND CAKE

1¾ cups (220g) all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup (225g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup (220g) firmly packed light brown sugar

4 eggs

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

CRÈME FRAÎCHE WHIPPED CREAM

⅔ cup (160ml) heavy cream

⅓ cup (80ml) crème fraîche

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Fresh or roasted fruit, for serving

1 To make the pound cake, heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and butter and flour a standard loaf pan.

2 In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

3 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or using a handheld electric mixer and a large bowl, beat the butter and brown sugar until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time until combined, followed by the vanilla. Don’t dismay if the batter starts to curdle. All will be well shortly.

4 Gradually add the dry ingredients and beat just until combined.

5 Scrape the batter into the loaf pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Cool the cake in the pan on a rack, then turn it out onto the rack to cool completely. It will keep in an airtight container for up to 5 days—although I doubt it will last that long.

6 To make the whipped cream, beat the cream, crème fraîche, and vanilla to very soft peaks. Store in the fridge for up to 2 days.

7 The day of: Whisk the cream briefly to return it to soft peaks. Slice the pound cake and serve each slice with a cap of whipped cream and fresh or roasted fruit.