SPP E-Book

Northeastern Tanzania

Northeastern Tanzania’s highlights are its coastline, its mountains and its cultures. These, combined with the area’s long history, easy access and lack of crowds, make it an appealing focal point for a Tanzania sojourn.

Step back to the days of Livingstone in Bagamoyo, relax on palm-fringed beaches around Pangani, or explore Saadani, a seaside national park. Inland, hike forested footpaths in the Usambaras while following the cycle of local market days.

Bagamoyo

In the mid-19th century Bagamoyo was one of the most important settlements along the East African coast and the terminus of the trade caravan route linking Lake Tanganyika with the sea. In 1868 French missionaries established Freedom Village at Bagamoyo as a shelter for ransomed slaves.

From 1887 to 1891 Bagamoyo was the capital of German East Africa, and in 1888 it was at the centre of the Abushiri revolt, the first major uprising against the colonial government. In 1891 the capital was transferred to Dar es Salaam, sending Bagamoyo into a slow decline from which it has yet to recover.

Today almost every worthwhile sight now has an admission price, making a Bagamoyo visit a rather expensive endeavor. Both the Catholic Museum and the Caravan Serai Museum (Tsh20,000; h9am-6pm) offer tourist information and guides.

1Sights

Bagamoyo TownHISTORIC SITE

(adult/child Tsh20,000/10,000)

With its cobwebbed portals and crumbling German-era colonial buildings, central Bagamoyo, or Mji Mkongwe (Stone Town) as it’s known locally, is well worth exploration. The most interesting area is along Ocean Rd. Here you’ll find the old German boma (a fortified living compound; in colonial times, an administrative office), built in 1897, and Liku House, which served as the German administrative headquarters. There is also a school, which dates to the late 19th century and was the first multiracial school in what is now Tanzania.

Catholic MuseumMUSEUM

(%023-244 0010; Tsh10,000; h10am-5pm)

About 2km north of town and reached via a long, mango-shaded avenue is the Catholic mission and museum, one of Bagamoyo’s highlights. In the same compound is the chapel where Livingstone’s body was laid before being taken to Zanzibar Town en route to Westminster Abbey. The mission dates from the 1868 establishment of Freedom Village and is the oldest in Tanzania.

4Sleeping & Eating

Funky Squids B&BB&B

(%0755 047802, 0778 227276; the.funky.squids@gmail.com; s/d Tsh50,000/65,000; pW)

This newish place has seven clean, modest rooms and a large beachfront bar-restaurant. It's at the southern end of town, next door to (and immediately south of) the Bagamoyo College of Arts (Chuo cha Sanaa).

Travellers LodgeLODGE

(%0754 855485, 023-244 0077; www.travellers-lodge.com; camping US$12, s/d cottages from US$60/80; a)

With its relaxed atmosphere and reasonable prices, this is among the best value of the beach places. Accommodation is in clean, pleasant cottages scattered around expansive grounds, some with two large beds. There’s a restaurant and a children’s play area. It’s just south of the entrance to the Catholic mission.

New Bagamoyo Beach ResortLODGE

(%0783 261655; www.facebook/newbagamoyobeachresort.com; camping US$9, bandas per person without bathroom US$20, s/d US$75/88; paW)

This seaside place is fine, friendly and very relaxed, with adequate rooms in two blocks (ask for the one closer to the water). It also has a few no-frills budget bandas on the beach that have just a bed. The cuisine is French-influenced and tasty. It also has a boat for excursions.

8Information

CRDBBANK

At the town entrance; ATM.

8Getting There & Away

Bagamoyo is about 70km north of Dar es Salaam and an easy drive along a good sealed road. The best routing for drivers is via Old Bagamoyo Rd through Mikocheni and Kawe.

Via public transport, there are dalla-dallas throughout the day from 'Makumbusho' (north of Dar es Salaam along the New Bagamoyo road, and accessed via dalla-dalla from New Posta) to Bagamoyo (Tsh2200, two hours). There is also a daily dalla-dalla to Saadani village via Msata on the main Arusha highway (Tsh10,000, three hours).

Nonmotorised dhows to Zanzibar cost about Tsh5000 (from Tsh10,000 for motorised boats). You’ll need to register first with the immigration officer in the old customs building.

Saadani National Park

About 70km north of Bagamoyo along a lovely stretch of coastline, and directly opposite Zanzibar, is tiny Saadani, (www.saadanipark.org; adult/child US$30/10) a 1000-sq-km patch of coastal wilderness.

While terrestrial wildlife watching can’t compare with that in the better-known national parks, animal numbers are slowly but surely increasing. In addition to hippos and crocs, it’s quite likely that you’ll see giraffes, and elephant spottings are increasingly common. With luck, you may see Lichtenstein’s hartebeests and even lions, although these are more difficult to spot.

SAADANI NATIONAL PARK

Why Go To enjoy the long, mostly deserted coastline plus some wildlife; ease of access from Dar es Salaam for those without much time.

When to Go June to February.

Practicalities Drive, bus or fly in from Dar es Salaam; bus from Bagamoyo; drive from Pangani. Entry points are Mvave gate (at the end of the Mandera road, for visitors from Dar es Salaam); Madete gate (for those coming from Pangani along the coastal road); and Wami gate (for those coming from Bagamoyo). Entry fees are valid for 24 hours, single entry only. Entry, camping, guide, walking and boat safari fees can be paid with Visa, MasterCard or cash at Mvave gate, and with cash only at Madete and Wami gates. All entry gates are open from 6am to 6pm; exiting the park is permitted up to 7pm. Saadani Tourist Information (%0689 062346, 0785 555135; infosaadani@tanzaniaparks.com), near Saadani village, can help with park accommodation bookings and guides.

Budget Tips There's no vehicle rental at the park. Best budget bet: get together a group and arrange a day safari with one of the lodges outside Saadani.

4Sleeping & Eating

Saadani Park Resthouse & BandasBANDA

(%0689 062346, 0785 555135; saadani@tanzaniaparks.com; banda/resthouse per person US$40/50)

Saadani's nice, new park bandas and resthouse are just back from the beach near Saadani village, in an area that elephants seem to like. The resthouse has three singles and a suite; the bandas have spacious double- and single-bedded rooms. Both have cold-water showers and self-catering kitchens. Bottled water is available in Saadani village; otherwise, bring all food and drink.

KisampaTENTED CAMP

(%0769 204159; www.afrikaafrikasafaris.com; per person full board US$180)S

For genuine bush adventure, it's difficult to beat this unique, family-friendly camp. Set off on its own about a two-hour drive from Saadani in a private nature reserve, Kisampa is integrated with the surrounding community, and offers many ways for guests to get involved. Accommodation is in rustic bungalows. Saadani safaris, bush walks, beach camping and other activities fill the days.

Tent With a View Safari LodgeLODGE

(%0713 323318, 022-211 0507; www.saadani.com; s/d full board US$355/550, s/d all inclusive US$655/750; p)S

This hideaway has raised tree-house-style bandas on a lovely stretch of deserted, driftwood-strewn beach, just north of the Saadani park boundary. All have verandas and hammocks. Excursions include safaris in the park and boat trips on the Wami River. The same management runs a lodge in Selous Game Reserve, and combination itineraries can be arranged.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Flights from Dar es Salaam (one way US$140) and Zanzibar (one way US$75) can be booked with Coastal Aviation.

Boat

Boat charters can be arranged with Saadani lodges, or through lodges near Pangani.

Car

From Dar es Salaam, the main route is via Chalinze on the Morogoro road, and then north to Mandera village (about 50km north of Chalinze on the Arusha highway). At Mandera bear east along a good gravel road and continue about 60km to Saadani. It's also possible to reach Saadani from Dar es Salaam via Bagamoyo: from Bagamoyo town, head north for 44km along a mostly rough road to the Wami entry gate and the Wami River, which is now bridged, except during the heavy rains; check with park headquarters or the camps about the bridge's status before venturing up. Once at the bridge, it's 21km further to Saadani village.

Coming from Pangani, take the ferry across the Pangani River, then continue south along a reasonably good, scenic road past stands of cashew, sisal and teak to the reserve’s northern Madete gate. (At the large signboard for Mkwaja, continue straight, then take the right fork at the next 'Y' junction.) Transfers can be arranged with Saadani or Pangani (Ushongo) lodges from about US$150 per vehicle each way (1½ to two hours).

Although Saadani officially stays open year-round, roads within the park get very muddy and difficult to pass during the rains, and you’ll probably be limited to the area around the beach and the camps. When driving away from the main park routes during the rains, be watchful to avoid getting your vehicle stuck in the area’s treacherous black cotton soil.

Pangani

About 55km south of Tanga is the small and dilapidated Swahili outpost of Pangani. It makes an intriguing step back into history, especially in the area within about three blocks of the river, where you’ll see some carved doorways, buildings from the German colonial era and old houses of Indian traders. More of a draw for many travellers are the beaches running north and south of town.

Pangani’s centre, with the market and bus stand, is on the corner of land where the Pangani River meets the sea. About 2km north is the main junction where the road from Muheza joins the coastal road, and where you should get off the bus if you’re arriving from Muheza and staying at the beaches north of town.

1Sights & Activities

Staff at the Pangani Cultural Tourism Program Office (h8am-5pm) in the yellow building at the bus stand (not to be confused with the similarly named cultural tourism office diagonally opposite the ferry dock), organise town tours (per person US$10), river cruises (US$70 for up to three people) and other excursions. All of the hotels south of Pangani also offer excursions, often more reliably and at more economical rates than the cultural tourism program office.

4Sleeping & Eating

Town Centre

Seaside Community Centre HostelGUESTHOUSE

(%0755 276422; s/d/tr US$20/30/60, with air-con US$30/50/75; pW)

This church-run place has spotless, pleasant rooms with fans and verandas, and meals on order. Its motto: 'Lovely and tenderly service is our joy and mission'. It’s about 1km from the bus stand (Tsh2000 in a taxi).

North of Pangani

Mkoma BayLODGE

(%0786 434001, 0784 283565; www.mkomabay.com; s/d luxury tents from US$90/155, 4-8-person house from US$320; piWs)

The highlights at this stylish lodge are the magnificent views over Mkoma Bay and the subdued, comfortable ambience. Accommodation is in seven raised, well-appointed tents of the sort you find in upmarket safari camps, set around expansive grounds on a low cliff overlooking the beach. There is also a four-bedroom self-catering house and a good restaurant. This is excellent value.

Capricorn Beach CottagesBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(%0784 632529; www.capricornbeachcottages.com; s/d US$82/120; piW)

This classy place on the beach 19km north of Pangani has three lovely, spacious self-catering cottages set in large grounds dotted with baobab trees. Each cottage has a hammock and a veranda. There's a clothing boutique, pizza oven, a deli selling homemade bread and other gourmet essentials, and the possibility of catered dinners under the stars. Wonderfully relaxing.

Peponi Holiday ResortCAMPGROUND, BANDAS

(%0784 202962; www.peponiresort.com; camping US$6.50, s/d half board US$75/98; piWs)

Relaxing Peponi is set in expansive palm-studded grounds on the beach 20km north of Pangani. There’s a shady beachfront campsite, simple, breezy double and family bungalows, a restaurant and bar, a small pool and a handcrafted dhow for snorkelling excursions. It's an ideal spot for families and campers. Buses running along the Pangani–Tanga road will drop you at the gate.

Ushongo Beach

The beaches get more beautiful the further south you go. Ushongo is about 15km south of the Pangani River.

Beach Crab ResortCAMPGROUND, COTTAGES

(%0784 543700, 0767 543700; www.thebeachcrab.com; camping US$6, s/d/tr beach huts US$23/36/54, s/d/tr bungalows US$70/100/120; pW)S

This backpacker- and family-friendly place is at the southern end of Ushongo beach. It has beachside camping, spotless, good-value backpacker huts sharing clean ablution blocks with the campsite, plus simple, comfortable and airy double and family bungalows. It also has a large, beachside bar-restaurant. It has windsurfing, kayaks, beach volleyball, snorkelling excursions and a raised tree-house lounge.

TidesLODGE

(%0784 225812; www.thetideslodge.com; s/d half board from US$245/340; pis)

The beautiful Tides has a prime seaside location on a wonderful stretch of beach, delightful, spacious, upmarket cottages directly on the sand and excellent cuisine. The cottages have huge beds surrounded by billowing mosquito nets, large bathrooms and stylish decor. There are also several family cottages and a private honeymooners’ luxury suite, plus a beachside bar and restaurant.

Sange Beach

Lovely Sange is about midway between Pangani town and the northern border of Saadani National Park.

oTembo KijaniLODGE

(%0687 027454, 0785 117098; www.pangani-ecolodge.com; d tree house/cottage full board US$160/215; p)S

This small ecolodge on a wonderful stretch of beach has four completely open-sided tree-house bandas nestled into the bush just back from the sea, two comfortable ground-level beach cottages and delicious, healthy cuisine. The owners have made great efforts to minimise the lodge's footprint and maximise sustainability. The overall results are impressive, with the lodge running on solar and wind power.

8Information

The closest banks and ATMs are in Tanga.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

The fast MV Ali Choba sails three times weekly between Ushongo (south of Pangani), Pangani and Zanzibar. The trip takes about 90 minutes, and costs US$290 per boat for up to five passengers, or US$55 per person for five or more passengers between Ushongo and Zanzibar (US$310 per boat or US$60 per person between Pangani and Zanzibar). Book through your hotel or Emayani Beach Lodge (%0782 457668, 027-264 0755; www.emayanilodge.com; s/d half board US$115/180).

The reliable Mr Wahidi (0784 489193) offers motorised dhow transfers between Pangani town and either Nungwi or Kendwa on Zanzibar for US$150 per boat for up to four people, plus US$35 per additional person. Allow about four hours for the trip.

Road

The best connections between Pangani and Tanga are via the rehabilitated coastal road, with about five buses daily (Tsh2500, 1½ hours). The first departure from Pangani is at about 6.30am, so you can connect with a Tanga–Arusha bus. There’s also at least one daily direct bus between Pangani and Dar es Salaam (Tsh13,000).

For Ushongo and the beaches south of Pangani, all the Ushongo hotels do pick-ups from both Bweni (the village just across the river from Pangani town) and Tanga. There’s also a daily bus between Tanga and Mkwaja (at the northern edge of Saadani National Park) that passes Mwera village (6km from Ushongo) daily at about 7am going north and 3.30pm going south. It’s then usually possible to hire a motorcycle to take you from Mwera to Ushongo.

The vehicle ferry over the Pangani River from Pangani to Bweni village runs regularly between about 6am and 10pm daily (per person/vehicle Tsh200/5000). From Bweni, you can arrange a taxi in advance with the Ushongo hotels (about Tsh30,000 per taxi for up to three passengers). Otherwise, motorcycles charge about Tsh10,000 to the Ushongo hotels.

Tanga

Pop 273,300

Tanga, a major industrial centre until the collapse of the sisal market, is Tanzania’s second-largest seaport and its third-largest town behind Dar es Salaam and Mwanza. Despite its size, it’s a pleasant-enough place with a sleepy, semicolonial atmosphere, wide streets filled with bicyclists and motorcycles, and faded charm.

Tanga

1Sights

1Urithi Tanga MuseumA3

4Sleeping

2Mkonge HotelE1

3Regal Naivera HotelD3

5Eating

4SD SupermarketF2

Information

5Tatona Tourist Information CentreB3

Transport

6Coastal AviationC3

1Sights & Activities

The most interesting areas for a stroll are around Jamhuri Park overlooking the harbour, near which you’ll find the old German-built Clock Tower ( GOOGLE MAP ), and the park and cemetery surrounding the Askari monument ( GOOGLE MAP ) at the end of Market St.

Urithi Tanga MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 440068; Independence Ave; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)F

Tanga’s old boma (fortified living compound) has been rehabilitated, and now houses this small but worthwhile museum, with historical photos and artefacts from the area.

Toten IslandHISTORIC SITE

Directly offshore from Tanga is this small, mangrove-ringed island ('Island of the Dead') with the overgrown ruins of a mosque dating at least to the 17th century and some 18th- and 19th-century gravestones. Pottery fragments from the 15th century have also been found, indicating that the island may have been settled during the Shirazi era. Toten Island’s apparently long history ended in the late 19th century, when its inhabitants moved to the mainland.

Tanga Yacht ClubSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %027-264 4246; www.tangayachtclub.com; Hospital Rd, Ras Kazone; day admission Tsh3000)

This place has a small, clean beach, showers and a restaurant-bar area overlooking the water. It’s a pleasant place to relax and, especially on weekend afternoons, it’s a good spot to meet resident expats and get the lowdown on what’s happening in town.

4Sleeping

Central Tanga

Regal Naivera HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0765 641464, 027-264 5669; regalnaiverahotel@yahoo.com; r Tsh45,000-100,000; paW)

This large, pink edifice is in a quiet location two blocks in from Hospital Rd and behind Katani House. It has clean, modern rooms in varying sizes, all with a double bed, fan, air-con and minifridge. It also has a restaurant.

Central City HotelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0718 282272, 027-264 4476; centralcityhotelltd@yahoo.com; Street No 8, Ngamiani; r Tsh45,000-60,000; pa)

This bland but reliable budget choice is the closest hotel to the bus stand that we can recommend. Rooms have fans, hot water, a minifridge and a double bed. There is also a restaurant. From the bus stand, go right onto Taifa Rd ('Double Rd’) to the roundabout. At the roundabout, go right onto Street No 8; Central City is 600m down on your left.

Mkonge HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-264 3440; mkongehotel@kaributanga.com; Hospital Rd; s/d US$80/90, with sea view US$90/100; paWs)

The imposing Mkonge Hotel, in a lovely setting on a vast, grassy lawn overlooking the sea, has reasonably comfortable rooms (worth the extra money for a sea view), lackadaisical service, a restaurant and wonderful views. The pool costs Tsh5000 for nonguests.

Outside Tanga

Fish Eagle PointLODGE

(%0784 346006; www.fisheaglepoint.com; per person full board US$90-144; ps)S

Fish Eagle Point, on a mangrove-fringed cove, has spacious beachfront cottages in varying sizes, a dhow, snorkelling, sea kayaking, fishing and birding. It’s ideal for families. Follow the Horohoro road north from Tanga for 38km to the signposted right-hand turn-off, from where it’s 10km further.

5Eating

SD SupermarketSUPERMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bank St; h9am-1.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)

A good stop for self-caterers; it's behind the market.

Tanga Yacht ClubEUROPEAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %027-264 4246; www.tangayachtclub.com; Hospital Rd, Ras Kazone; admission Tsh3000, meals from Tsh9000; hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon)

Seafood and mixed grill dishes, overlooking the water.

8Information

BarclaysBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Independence Ave)

ATM.

Click On-LineINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Custom St; per hour Tsh2000; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Internet cafe.

EximBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Independence Ave)

Next to Barclays; ATM.

NBCBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Bank & Market Sts)

Just west of the market. Changes cash; ATM.

Tatona Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tangatourism.com; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

The helpful staff at Tatona can provide information on nearby attractions, and advice for accommodation and transport options. They will also link you up with Tatona-approved (ie reliable) tour agencies and guides for excursions. Stop in here first, before visiting any of the other 'tourism offices' in town.

Its office is diagonally opposite the post office in the small white gazebo.

8Getting There & Away

Air

There are daily flights on Coastal Aviation ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0778-242966, 0658-777762; pembaaviationtanga@gmail.com; Independence Ave) between Tanga, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar and Pemba (one way between Tanga and Pemba/Zanzibar/Dar es Salaam US$70/100/130). Its booking agent is near Exim Bank, and at the airport. The airstrip is about 3km west of town along the Korogwe road (Tsh4000 in a taxi).

Boat

At the time of research, the ferry service between Tanga and Wete on Pemba was suspended, but it is likely to soon resume.

Bus

Buses for Dar es Salaam, Simba, Raha Leo and other lines depart daily every few hours from 6.30am to 2pm in each direction (Tsh12,000 to Tsh15,000, five hours).

To Arusha, there are at least three departures daily between about 6am and 11am (Tsh13,000 to Tsh14,000, seven hours). To Lushoto (Tsh5000 to Tsh6000, three to four hours), there’s a direct bus departing by 7am, or you can take any Arusha bus and transfer at Mombo.

To Pangani (Tsh2000, 1½ hours), there are small buses throughout the day along the coastal road.

8Getting Around

There are taxi ranks at the bus station, and at the junction of Usambara and India Sts. If you’re keen on cycling, the tourist information office can help with bicycle rental. There are occasional dalla-dallas that run along Ocean Rd between the town centre and Ras Kazone.

Muheza

Muheza is a scrappy junction town where the roads to Amani Nature Reserve and to Pangani branch off the main Tanga highway.

4Sleeping

GK LodgeGUESTHOUSE

(r Tsh13,000)

This local guesthouse has clean, basic rooms and no food. It's 1.2km from the bus stand: follow signs to Amani Nature Reserve; after crossing the railroad tracks, continue along the Amani road for 500m to the signposted right-hand turn-off.

8Getting There & Away

Transport to Amani leaves from the bus stand just off the Tanga road. There are two buses daily to and from Amani, departing Muheza about 2pm (Tsh3500, two hours), and Amani at 6am. There are connections to Tanga (Tsh2000, 45 minutes) throughout the day, and direct daily buses in the morning to Lushoto (Tsh4000, three hours).

Usambara Mountains

With their wide vistas, cool climate, winding paths and picturesque villages, the Usambaras are one of northeastern Tanzania’s delights. Rural life revolves around a cycle of bustling, colourful market days that rotate from one village to the next, and is largely untouched by the booming safari scene and influx of 4WDs in nearby Arusha. It’s easily possible to spend at least a week trekking from village to village or exploring with day walks.

The Usambaras, which are part of the ancient Eastern Arc chain, are divided into two ranges separated by a 4km-wide valley. The western Usambaras, around Lushoto, are the most accessible, with a better road network, and are quite heavily touristed these days, while the eastern Usambaras, around Amani, are less developed.

Paths get too muddy for trekking during the rainy season. The best time to visit is from July to October, after the rains and when the air is clearest.

Amani Nature Reserve

This often-overlooked reserve (adult/child US$10/5 per visit, not per day) is located west of Tanga in the heart of the eastern Usambaras. It’s a peaceful, lushly vegetated patch of montane forest humming with the sounds of rushing water, chirping insects and singing birds, and is exceptionally rich in unique plant and bird species – a highly worthwhile detour for those ornithologically or botanically inclined. For getting around, there’s a network of short walks along shaded forest paths that can be done with or without a guide. The reserve gate – where you pay your entry fees – is at Zigi, about 12km below Amani.

4Sleeping & Eating

Amani Conservation Centre Rest HouseCAMPGROUND, GUESTHOUSE

(%027-264 0313, 0784 587805; www.amaninature.org; camping US$30; s/d Tsh15,000/30,000; breakfast/lunch/dinner Tsh3000/6000/6000; p)

The setting and rustic atmosphere here are better than at Zigi Rest House, but rooms aren't as comfortable and they can be less peaceful. There is also a small area to pitch a tent, a supply of hot water and simple meals available. Continue straight past the main fork in Amani to the reserve office. The guesthouse is next to the office.

Zigi Rest HouseCAMPGROUND, GUESTHOUSE

(%027-264 0313, 0784 587805; www.amaninature.org; camping US$30; s/d Tsh15,000/30,000; breakfast/lunch/dinner Tsh3000/6000/6000)

Rooms here have bathrooms, three twin beds and are quieter and marginally more comfortable than those at Amani Conservation Centre Resthouse. There is hot water for bathing and meals are available, though it's a good idea to bring fruit or snacks as supplements. Camping is possible; bring all supplies. It is located at the main reserve gate.

Amani Forest CampCAMPGROUND, COTTAGES

(Emau Hill; %0782 656526; www.amaniforestcamp.com; camping US$7, s/d/tr tented bandas US$74/98/132, s/d/tr cottage US$94/128/177; hmid-Jun–Mar; p)S

This rustic place has good camping, comfortable permanent tents sharing amenities and the four-person Turaco cottage with bathroom. All are in a wooded setting with fine birding and walking trails. Continue 1.5km past Amani on the Kwamkoro road to the signposted turn-off, from where it’s 3km further along a narrow bush track. Half- and full-board options are also available.

8Information

There’s an information centre (h8am-5pm) at the old Station Master’s House at Zigi with details about the area’s history, animals and medicinal plants.

The reserve office (%027-264 0313, 0784-242045; www.amaninature.org; adult/child per visit (not per day) US$10/5, Tanzania-registered/foreign vehicle per visit Tsh10,000/US$50) is at Amani. Fees for entry and guides (per person per day US$15) can be paid here or at Zigi.

8Getting There & Away

Amani is 32km northwest of Muheza along a dirt road that is in fair condition the entire way, except for the last 7km, where the road is rocky and in bad shape (4WD only). There’s at least one truck daily between Muheza and Amani (Tsh3000, two hours), continuing on to Kwamkoro, 9km beyond Amani. Departures from Muheza are between about 1pm and 2pm. Going in the other direction, transport passes Amani (stopping near the Amani reserve office as well as at the Zigi entry gate) from about 6am.

Lushoto

This leafy highland town is nestled in a fertile valley at about 1200m, surrounded by pines and eucalyptus mixed with banana plants and other tropical foliage. It’s the centre of the western Usambaras and makes an ideal base for hikes into the surrounding hills.

HIKES FROM LUSHOTO

An easy walk to get started is to Irente Viewpoint (6km, allow two to three hours return), which begins on the road running southwest from the Anglican church and leads gradually uphill to the viewpoint, with wide views on clear days. It’s impressive to see how abruptly the Usambaras rise up from the plains below. En route is Irente Farm (Irente Farm; %0784 502935, 0788 503002; www.irentebiodiversityreserve.org; camping Tsh8000, s/d/tr from Tsh30,000/50,000/95,000, 4-/6-person house Tsh200,000/175,000; p), where you can buy fresh cheese, yoghurt and granola, and get accommodation.

There’s also a lovely three- to four-day hike that you can do from Lushoto to Mtae through stands of pine and past cornfields, villages and patches of wild asters, a six-day walk to Amani Nature Reserve, plus many other possibilities. The tourist information centres have wall maps detailing some of the routes.

2Activities

The western Usambaras around Lushoto offer wonderful walking. Routes follow well-worn footpaths that weave among villages, cornfields and banana plantations, and range from a few hours to several days. It’s easy to hike on your own, though you’ll need to master basic Swahili phrases, carry a GPS, get a map of the area and plan your route to go via the handful of villages where local guesthouses are available. This said, a spate of robberies of solo hikers, mostly en route to Irente Viewpoint, means that for all routes, hiking with a guide is recommended.

All of the tourist information centres also organise hikes. Don’t go with freelancers who aren’t associated with an office or a reliable hotel. Rates vary depending on the hike and have gotten very costly. Expect to pay Tsh30,000 per person for a half-day hike to Irente Viewpoint, up to about Tsh75,000 per person per day on multiday hikes, including camping or accommodation in very basic guesthouses, guide fees, forest fees for any hikes that enter forest reserves (which includes most hikes from Lushoto) and food. Note that if you’re fit and keen on covering some distance, most of the set stages for the popular hikes are quite short and it’s easy to do two or even three stages in a day. However, most guides will then want to charge you the full price for the additional days, so you’ll need to negotiate an amicable solution. A basic selection of vegetables and fruits is available along most routes and bottled water is sold in several of the larger villages, though if you’re hiking on your own, you should carry a filter.

Lushoto can get chilly and wet at any time of year, so bring a waterproof jacket.

4Sleeping & Eating

In & Near town

Tumaini HostelHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %027-264 0094; tumaini@elct-ned.org; Main Rd; d/ste/f Tsh30,000/40,000/50,000, s without bathroom Tsh17,000; p)

This good-value place run by the Lutheran church offers clean, twin-bedded rooms and hot-water showers in a two-storey compound overlooking tiny gardens. A restaurant is attached. It's directly in the town centre, near the Telecom building. Profits support church-run community projects in the area.

St Eugene’s LodgeGUESTHOUSE

(%0784 523710, 027-264 0055; www.usambara-st-eugene.com; s/tw/tr/ste US$25/45/54/60)

Run by an order of sisters, the unpretentious St Eugene's has pleasant rooms with balconies and views over the surrounding gardens. Tasty meals are served, and homemade cheese and jam are for sale. St Eugene’s is along the main road, about 3.5km before Lushoto, on the left coming from Soni. Ask to get dropped at the Montessori Centre.

Rosminian HostelGUESTHOUSE

(%0785 776348, 0684 116688; d Tsh30,000; p)

This small church-run place has straightforward double-bedded rooms overlooking a tiny compound. All have hot-water showers, mosquito nets and TVs; meals are available with advance order. It’s 1.8km before town, and about 300m off the main road to the left when coming from Soni. Ask the bus driver to drop you at the turn-off.

St Benedict’s HostelGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0712 369174; camping Tsh7000, s/d/tr Tsh20,000/30,000/45,000)

St Benedict's offers one larger double plus several smaller rooms. The rooms are no-frills, and rather dark and gloomy, but the location is convenient. Meals are available with advance order. It’s next door to and run by the Catholic church.

Lawn’s HotelLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 420252, 0754 464526; www.lawnshotel.com; camping US$12, s/d/tr US$45/55/70; pW)

This Lushoto institution is faded but full of charm, with vine-covered buildings and extensive gardens. It has spacious, slightly dilapidated wooden-floored rooms with fireplaces, plus newer doubles and twin-bedded bungalows, a bar and a restaurant. Go left at the traffic circle at the town entrance, following the unpaved road up and around to the right through the pine trees to the hotel.

Outside Town

Swiss Farm CottageLODGE

(%0714 970271, 0784 700813; www.swiss-farm-cottage.co.tz; per person half board in standard/luxury bungalow US$50/65; p)

This tranquil spot, complete with cows grazing on the hillsides, does a good job of mixing Tanzania with Switzerland. There are standard family rooms, and a bungalow with two doubles sharing a sitting area with a fireplace. The rooms are comfortable and there's hiking at your doorstep.

Mullers Mountain LodgeLODGE

(%0784 500999, 0782 315666; www.mullersmountainlodge.co.tz; camping US$10, s/d US$45/60, q without bathroom US$90, cottage US$120; p)

This old family homestead is set in sprawling grounds, with rooms in the main house or, for more privacy, in nearby cottages (with two rooms sharing a sitting room). There are also a few less appealing cement huts with shared bathroom, a camping area and a restaurant. It’s about 17km from Lushoto past Migambo village, and signposted.

8Information

Bosnia Internet CaféINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd; per hour Tsh2000; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)

At the southern end of town.

CRDBBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd)

ATM; at the Western Union building, diagonally opposite the prison.

Friends of Usambara SocietyTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.usambaratravels.com)

Just down the small road running next to NMB bank, with hikes and cycling tours (bring your own bicycle).

National Microfinance BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)

Changes cash only.

SED ToursTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 689848; www.sedadventures.com; Main Rd)

Reliable hikes and cultural tours; on the main road opposite the park.

8Getting There & Away

Dalla-dallas go throughout the day between Lushoto and Mombo (Tsh2000, one hour), the junction town on the main highway.

Daily direct buses travel from Lushoto to Tanga (Tsh6000, four hours), Dar es Salaam (Tsh12,000, six to seven hours) and Arusha (Tsh12,000 to Tsh13,000, six hours), with most departures from 7am. To get to the lodges near Migambo, take the road heading uphill and northeast of town to Magamba, turn right at the signposted junction and continue for 7km to Migambo junction, from where the lodges are signposted. Via public transport, there’s a daily bus between Tanga and Kwamakame that goes to within around 2km of Mullers, departing Tanga at about 9am or 10am and reaching the Migambo area at around 2pm.

Mtae

Tiny Mtae is perched on a cliff about 55km northwest of Lushoto, with fantastic 270-degree views over the Tsavo Plains and down to Mkomazi National Park. Just to the southeast is Shagayu Peak (2220m), one of the highest in the Usambara Mountains.

About 3km before Mtae is the excellent Mambo Viewpoint Eco Lodge & Mambo Cliff Inn (%0785 272150, 0769 522420; www.mamboviewpoint.org; camping US$8-10, s/d in Cliff Inn US$20/35, s/d in Viewpoint from US$60/85; pW), with stunning views, comfortable permanent tents and cottages. The owners offer a wealth of information on the area, and can sort out hikes, village stays and more.

8Getting There & Away

If travelling by public transport you’ll need to spend at least one night in Mtae as buses from Lushoto (Tsh7000, four hours) travel only in the afternoons, departing Lushoto by about 1pm. The return buses from Mtae to Lushoto depart between 4am and 5am en route to Dar es Salaam. For Mambo, negotiate with the driver to take you all the way, or get dropped at the Mtae–Mambo junction, from where it is just a short walk.

Soni

Tiny Soni lacks Lushoto’s infrastructure, but makes a good change of pace if you’ll be staying longer in the Usambaras. It’s also the starting point for several wonderful walks, including a two- to three-day hike to the Mazumbai Forest Reserve and Bumbuli town.

Sleepy Maweni Farm (%0784 279371, 0784 307841; www.maweni.com/lodge; d US$60-80, without bathroom US$50; pW) is an atmospheric old farmhouse set in lush, rambling grounds, with Kwa Mungu mountain rising up behind. The rooms (some in the main house and some in a separate block) are spacious and comfortable. There are also safari-style tents with private bathrooms, plus meals and guides for walks. Maweni is 2.9km from the main Soni junction along a dirt road, and signposted.

8Getting There & Away

Soni is 12km south of Lushoto along the Mombo road, and easy to reach via dalla-dalla from either destination (Tsh1000 from Lushoto, Tsh1000 from Mombo).

Mombo

Mombo is the scruffy junction town at the foot of the Usambara Mountains where the road to Lushoto branches off the main Dar es Salaam–Arusha highway. As most buses from either Arusha or Dar es Salaam pass at a reasonable hour, you should have no trouble getting a dalla-dalla up to Soni or Lushoto to sleep.

Northern Tanzania

For many visitors to Tanzania, it’s all about the north. With snow-capped Mt Kilimanjaro, wildlife-packed Ngorongoro Crater, red-cloaked Maasai warriors and the vast plains of the Serengeti, northern Tanzania embodies what is for many the quintessential Africa. But there’s much more to this majestic and mythical place and it would draw scores of visitors even if it didn’t host these African icons.

Crater-capped Mt Meru is a climb that rivals its taller neighbour, dry-season wildlife watching in Tarangire National Park is as good as any other park in Africa, and the desolate Rift Valley landscapes between Lakes Manyara and Natron will mesmerise you. Sleep in a coffee plantation, hunt with modern-day nomads, ride camels, canoe with hippos…well, you get the point.

You couldn’t possibly do it all in one trip, but you’ll make a lifetime of memories no matter how much time you have.

Arusha

Pop 416,440

Cool, lush and green, Arusha is one of Tanzania’s most developed and fastest-growing towns and the seat of the East African Community, a revived attempt at regional collaboration. It sprawls near the foot of Mt Meru at about 1300m altitude and enjoys a temperate climate throughout the year. Arusha’s location is convenient for all Northern Circuit parks, and as such, it’s the safari capital of Tanzania and a major tourism centre: with all the good and bad that brings.

Prices are high and the chorus of hi how are you?, hey my friend, what are you looking for? want something special? good price and remember me? lead many tourists to fits of exasperation. On the other hand, Arusha’s food and facilities are excellent. For travellers making an extended trip across Tanzania it can be a nice break from the rigours of the road. For first-timers to Africa, it provides a gentle introduction.

Arusha

1Sights

1Arusha Declaration MuseumC2

2Natural History MuseumE2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Base Camp TanzaniaB1

4Hoopoe SafarisB5

5Roy SafarisG5

6Safari MakersB5

Via Via Cultural ToursE2

4Sleeping

7African TulipG5

8Arusha BackpackersA4

9Arusha Centre Tourist InnC3

10Arusha Naaz HotelB6

11Impala HotelH5

12Kitundu GuesthouseB1

13New Safari HotelC5

14Outpost LodgeF6

15Raha LeoB2

16Spices & HerbsH4

17Ujamaa HostelE6

5Eating

Arusha Naaz HotelB6

18Bay LeafH4

19Big BiteC3

20Blue HeronG4

21Café BarristaB6

22Fifi'sD3

23Khan's BarbecueB3

24ShanghaiA4

Spices & HerbsH4

25TapaSafariF2

26Via ViaE2

6Drinking & Nightlife

Via ViaE2

7Shopping

27KaseB5

28KaseB5

29Maasai Women Fair Trade CentreH3

SchwariG4

Information

30Arusha Lutheran Medical CentreA1

31Barclays BankG5

32CRDB BankB5

33CRDB BankB4

Cultural Tourism Program OfficeE2

34Exim BankA6

35Immigration OfficeE2

36Kibo Palace Bureau de ChangeB5

37Moona's PharmacyD4

38NBC ATMA1

39NBC BankD4

40Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (NCAA) Information OfficeB5

41Sanya 1 Bureau de ChangeA4

42Sanya 2 Bureau de ChangeA6

43Sanya 3 Bureau de ChangeC4

44SkylinkA6

45Stanbic BankD4

46Standard CharteredA6

47Tanzania Tourist Board Tourist Information CentreB5

Transport

48Air ExcelA6

Arusha NaazB6

49Central Bus StationB3

Dar ExpressA1

50Ethiopian AirlinesC5

51FastjetB5

52Impala ShuttleH5

53Jamii ShuttleH4

54Makao Mapya Bus StationA1

Metro ExpressA1

55Precision AirC5

RainbowC5

56Rainbow ShuttleB5

57RwandAirC3

1Sights

Natural History MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250 7540; Boma Rd; adult/student US$5/2; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun)

This museum inside the old German boma, completed in 1900, has three parts. The best is the wing dedicated to the evolution of humans, since much of what we know about the topic came from fossils unearthed in Tanzania. There are also displays on insects, the history of Arusha during the German colonial era, and many wildlife photos and mounts.

Arusha Declaration MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250 7800; Makongoro Rd; adult/child Tsh8000/4000; h9.30am-5pm)

Despite the promising subject matter, you'd have to be pretty bored to come to this unfocused little museum. Half the space is filled with photos of government officials. It improves slightly after that, with some photos from the colonial era and a handful of ethnographic artefacts.

TTours

oVia Via Cultural ToursCULTURAL TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0754 038981; www.viaviacafe.com/en/arusha; Boma Rd; 1hr/1 day drum lesson US$20/50, city/market tour US$20/40, cooking class US$30; h9am-4pm)

Run out of the Via Via Cafe just off the back of the Natural History Museum, this place offers drum lessons (including an all-day version in which you learn to make your own drum), two-hour city tours, three-hour 'Maasai Market Tours', and cooking classes.

4Sleeping

The best budget area in Arusha is the Kaloleni neighbourhood, north of Stadium St and east of Colonel Middleton Rd (a 10-minute walk from the bus stand), followed by the busy central market area south of the stadium. Things are slightly quieter around the Clock Tower. For midrange and top-end option, head to leafy eastern Arusha.

City Centre & Clock Tower

Kitundu GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250 9065; Levolosi Rd; s/d Tsh25,000/30,000, with shared bathroom Tsh15,000/20,000)

A decent, reliable choice. It's worth paying extra for a room with attached bathroom. Also, avoid the claustrophobic ground-floor rooms and go for the far better, light-filled rooms up on the first or second floors where there are Mt Meru views from the shared landing. All rooms have mosquito nets.

Raha LeoGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0753 600002; Stadium St; s/d Tsh25,000/30,000, with shared bathroom Tsh20,000/25,000)

Undistinguished although adequate double and twin rooms, some along the corridor, others around an open-air lounge. With hot water and cable TV it’s one of the best value options in town, and the location is central but quieter than most.

Arusha Centre Tourist InnHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0764 294384, 027-250 0421; atihotel@habari.co.tz; Livingstone Rd; s/d US$25/30; iW)

Unremarkable but clean and fairly spacious rooms are on offer here – they're just about fine for the price (ask for a discount anyway), but be prepared for an early morning wake-up call from the neighbouring mosque. The three storeys ring a courtyard, and there’s a restaurant at the front with okay food and plenty of Maasai men staring at the TV.

Arusha BackpackersBACKPACKERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 377795; www.arushabackpackers.co.tz; Sokoine Rd; dm/s/d with shared bathroom US$10/12/20; i)

There's a buzz about this place in more ways than one – it's popular for those looking to hook up with other travellers, but the absence of mosquito nets may deter some. Shared bathrooms have an institutional feel. Unless you're looking for travel buddies, look elsewhere.

New Safari HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0787 326122, 027-254 5940; www.thenewsafarihotel.com; Boma Rd; s/d/tr US$100/125/180; ai)

Once the favourite of white hunters and their tall tales from the African bush, the New Safari was reborn in 2004 and is the pick of the city-centre mid-range options. Rooms are generally large, have tiled floors and a touch of class in the decor. It's also within walking distance of just about anything in the city centre.

Arusha Naaz HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0744 282799, 027-257 2087; www.arushanaaz.net; Sokoine Rd; s/d/tr from US$45/60/75; aW)

Naaz is short on atmosphere, but otherwise okay value, with comfortable 1st-floor rooms in a convenient location by the Clock Tower; the main reason to stay here (as opposed to Eastern Arusha) is to be within walking distance of the city centre. Rooms are not all the same, so check out a few first; we think those around the triangular courtyard are best.

ARUSHA TREKKING OPERATORS

If you’re organising a Kilimanjaro trek in Arusha, look for operators that organise treks themselves rather than subcontracting to a Moshi- or Marangu-based operator. Many safari operators also organise treks. In addition, try the following:

Dorobo SafarisSAFARIS, TREKKING

(www.dorobosafaris.com; midrange)S

Community-oriented treks in and around the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and wilderness treks in Tarangire Park border areas and in the Serengeti.

Kiliwarrior ExpeditionsTREKKING

(www.kiliwarriorexpeditions.com; top end)

Upmarket Kilimanjaro climbs, treks in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and safaris.

Summits Africa Upmarket adventure safaris, including treks in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and to Lake Natron with the option to climb Ol Doinyo Lengai, West Kilimanjaro walking safaris, multiday fully equipped bike safaris and combination bike-safari trips.

Eastern Arusha

oUjamaa HostelHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0753 960570; www.ujamaahostel.com; Fire Rd; dm half board plus laundry US$18)

Focussing on volunteers, but open to all, Ujamaa is the most communal spot to lay your head in Arusha. Besides the clean dorms with shelves, lockable draws and hot-water baths, there’s a TV lounge, book exchange, plenty of travel advice and a quiet backyard. It can also hook you up with a variety of volunteer opportunities (minimum two-week commitment) in Arusha.

oBlues & ChutneyB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0658 127380, 0732 971668; www.bluesandchutney.com; House No 2 Olorien, Lower Kijenge; s/d US$120/160; W)

An intimate and sophisticated boutique B&B on a quiet street southeast of the centre, Blues & Chutney has the feel of a tranquil enclave for people in the know. The decor is white-wood and classy, the atmosphere refined, and four out of the six light-and-airy rooms have large private balconies. The restaurant serves home-style cooking and there's a small bar.

Themi Suites HotelAPARTMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0732 979621, 0732 979617; www.themisuiteshotel.com; Njiro Hill Rd; 2-/3-bedroom apt US$150/180; aW)

This excellent place is ideal for families or for those who want their own spacious serviced apartments with kitchen, dining and lounge area. They come with attractive wrought-iron furnishings, as well as flat-screen TVs, microwaves and washing machines. The two-bedroom apartments fit four, the three-bedroom ones can accommodate six. There's also a good on-site restaurant.

Outpost LodgeLODGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0754 318523; www.outposttanzania.net; Serengeti Rd; s/d/tr US$62/81/94; iWs)

The rooms here are nothing special, but come with attractive stone floors, and the lush grounds and communal poolside restaurant-lounge with couches, board games and fresh-squeezed juices make for a decent overall package. It’s in a quiet residential area off Nyerere Rd.

Spices & HerbsGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; axum_spices@hotmail.com; Simeon Rd; s/d US$40/50; iW)

The 19 rooms behind this popular Ethiopian restaurant are simple but warm, with woven grass mats and wooden wardrobes adding character not often found at this price level. There's an internal patio and it's cheaper than most in eastern Arusha – excellent value.

Impala HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0774 878679, 027-254 3082; www.impalahotel.com; Simeon Rd; s/d/tr US$100/130/175; paiWs)

Filling a gap between the small family-run guesthouses and the big luxury hotels, the nothing-special Impala offers adequate rooms (be sure you get one of the newer ones with parquetry floors and safari-themed furnishings) and abundant services like a forex bureau and 24-hour restaurant. It's always worth asking for discounts or an upgrade to a better room.

oAfrican TulipBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 714104, 027-254 3004; www.theafricantulip.com; Serengeti Rd; s/d/tr US$190/230/300, ste US$310-500; paiWs)S

Marketing itself as a luxury boutique hotel, the deservedly popular African Tulip inhabits a green, quiet side street and successfully combines an African safari theme with a genteel ambience. The large rooms are supremely comfortable havens from Arusha's noise. There’s a whimsical baobab tree in the restaurant, carved wood around the common areas and a small garden around the swimming pool at the back.

CULTURAL TOURISM PROGRAMS

Numerous villages outside Arusha (and elsewhere in the country) run ‘Cultural Tourism Programs’ that offer an alternative to the safari scene. Most centre on light hikes and village activities.

Although the line is sometimes blurred between community empowerment and empowering the enterprising individuals who run the community, they nevertheless provide employment for locals and offer an excellent chance to experience Tanzanian life and culture. Most have various ‘modules’ available, from half a day to several nights. Overnight tours are either camping or homestays; though expect conditions to be basic. Payments should be made on-site; always ask for a receipt.

All tours in the Arusha area can be booked through the Tanzania Tourist Board (TTB) Tourist Information Centre. The office can also outline the best transport options. Most tours should be booked a day in advance; but some guides wait at the TTB office on standby each morning. If you have further questions, the Cultural Tourism Program office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0786 703010, 027-205 0025; www.tanzaniaculturaltourism.com; Natural History Museum, Boma Rd) in the back of the Natural History Museum in Arusha may (or may not) be able to assist. You can also contact many of the places directly to make the necessary arrangements.

IlkurotCULTURAL TOUR

(%0784 459296, 0713 332005; kinyorilomon@yahoo.com)S

A good choice for those interested in Maasai culture. Stops on their village and trekking (using donkeys or camels, if you wish) tours include a boma, herbal doctor, midwife and other community members. Overnighters have the choice of camping or sleeping in a guesthouse or boma. The village is 25km north of Arusha off the Nairobi Rd.

MkuruCULTURAL TOUR

(%0784 724498, 0784 472475; www.mkurucamelsafari.com)S

The Maasai village of Mkuru, 14km off the Nairobi road north of Mt Meru and 60km from Arusha, hosts the region’s pioneering camel camp. You can take a short camel ride around the village or multi-day safari as far away as Mt Kilimanjaro and Lake Natron. There’s a simple tented camp in the village or pitch your own tent.

MulalaCULTURAL TOUR

(%0784 747433, 0784 499044; agapetourism@yahoo.com)S

Set on the southern slope of Mt Meru about 30km northeast of Arusha, this program is completely run by women. Tours focus on farming and daily life and include visits to a women’s cooperative and cheese makers. Camping is possible if you have camping gear, though with an early start, you could do this tour as a day trip from Arusha.

Ng'iresiCULTURAL TOUR

(%0754 320966, 0754 476079; lotisareyo@yahoo.com)S

One of the most popular programs, the primary tours at Ng’iresi village (about 7km northeast of Arusha on the slopes of Mt Meru) include visits to Wa-arusha farms, houses and a school. There is also a traditional medicine tour, along with several waterfalls and a hike up a small volcano. There’s no public transport here; arrange transport as part of your booking.

Peace MatundaCULTURAL TOUR

(%0787 482966; www.peacematunda.org)S

Near Kimundo, around 15km northeast of Arusha, this place offers half- to three-day hiking, camping and mountain-biking tours, visits to local families and to coffee and banana plantations, as well as volunteer programs with a focus on underprivileged kids.

Outside Arusha

Meserani Snake ParkCAMPGROUND

(%027-253 8282; www.meseranisnakepark.com; camping incl snake park admission US$10; p)

This overlander-oriented place has good facilities, including hot showers, a bar-restaurant with cheap meals and a vehicle repair shop. It’s 25km west of Arusha along the Dodoma road.

oKarama LodgeLODGE

(%0754 475188; www.karamalodge.com; s/d/tr US$104/138/199; piWs)

Truly something different, on a forested hillside in the Suye Hill area just southeast of town, Karama offers 22 rustic and rather lovely stilt bungalows, each with a verandah and views to both Kilimanjaro and Meru on clear days. It’s signposted north of Old Moshi Rd.

oOnsea HouseB&B

(%0787 112498; www.onseahouse.com; s/d US$250/300; pWs)

Run by a Belgian chef whose eye for the little things is what really makes this lovely bed and breakfast such a great place. The rooms each have their own themes, plus there's the Machweo Wellness Retreat and Fine Dining, a fabulous spa and yoga centre with a top-notch restaurant. Very tranquil and very classy. It’s about 1km off the Moshi road on the edge of town.

KigongoniLODGE

(%0732 978876; www.kigongoni.net; s/d/tr incl guided walks from US$170/198/315; piWs)S

Kigongoni’s tranquil hilltop perch about 5km past Arusha gives it an almost wilderness feel. Spacious cottages, all with porches, fireplaces and wide views, are scattered around the forest, some quite a hilly walk from the cosy common areas. It’s about 5km beyond Arusha towards Moshi.

5Eating

City Centre & Clock Tower

oKhan's BarbecueBARBECUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mosque St; mixed grill from Tsh7500; hfrom 6.30pm Mon-Fri, from 4.30pm Sat & Sun)

This Arusha institution is an auto-spares store by day and the best known of many earthy roadside barbecues around the market area by night. It lays out a heaping spread of grilled, skewered meat and salad. If you want to feel like a local, this is a fine place to begin.

Big BiteINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Swahili St; mains Tsh5000-12,000; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Wed-Mon; v)

One of the oldest and most reliable Indian restaurants in Arusha. Don’t let the modest premises or fast-food-esque name fool you.

ShanghaiCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 659247; Sokoine Rd; meals Tsh4000-14,000; hnoon-3pm & 6-10.30pm; v)

Very good Chinese-owned restaurant with fast service and 'Far East meets the Wild West' decor – let's face it, when did a Chinese restaurant in Africa ever win a style award? It’s hidden behind the post office.

Arusha Naaz HotelTANZANIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-257 2087; Sokoine Rd; buffet Tsh10,000; hbuffet noon-6pm)

This place has an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet and large snack counter.

Café BarristaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0754 288771; www.cafebarrista.com; Sokoine Rd; meals Tsh4000-10,000; h7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-5pm Sun; Wv)

A recent move a little upmarket has done nothing to diminish the appeal of this friendly place. Try their chocolate croissant, or fill up with sandwiches, salads and wraps, as well as great coffee. There's also an internet cafe and wi-fi (free with meal purchases).

oFifi'sINTERNATIONAL, BAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0786 487727, 027-254 4021; Themi St; breakfast Tsh3000-17,000, mains Tsh14,000-18,000; h7.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-10pm Sat & Sun)

As good for breakfast or a quiet afternoon coffee as for a more substantial meal, this sophisticated bakery has free wi-fi and serves up exciting dishes such as beef fillet with blue cheese sauce. A very cool place.

Via ViaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 434845; www.viaviacafe.com/en/arusha; Boma Rd; mains Tsh10,000-16,000; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat)

Cultured and laid-back with the best soundtrack of any restaurant in Arusha, this place along the river behind the Natural History Museum is a popular meeting spot. They serve coffee, salads and sandwiches plus more substantial meals like pastas and grilled fish. There’s a decent bar and live music.

NORTHERN CIRCUIT SAFARI OPERATORS

Access2TanzaniaSAFARIS

(www.access2tanzania.com; budget to midrange)

Customised, community-focused itineraries.

Africa Travel ResourceSAFARIS

(ATR; www.africatravelresource.com; midrange to top end)

A web-based safari broker that matches your safari ideas with an operator and offers excellent background information on its website.

African Scenic SafarisSAFARIS

(www.africanscenicsafaris.com; midrange)S

Small, family-run operator focusing on customised northern circuit safaris and Kilimanjaro treks.

Base Camp TanzaniaSAFARIS, TREKKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.basecamptanzania.com; midrange)

Northern circuit safaris and treks.

Hoopoe SafarisSAFARIS, TREKKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hoopoe.com; India St; upper midrange)S

Community-integrated luxury camping and lodge safaris in the northern circuit; also has its own tented camps at Lake Manyara and mobile camps in the Serengeti.

IntoAfricaSAFARIS, TREKKING

(www.intoafrica.co.uk; midrange)S

Fair-traded cultural safaris and treks in northern Tanzania, including a seven-day wildlife-cultural safari in Maasai areas.

Lake Tanganyika Adventure SafarisSAFARIS

(www.safaritourtanzania.com; midrange)

Adventure safaris focusing on Katavi and Mahale Mountains National Parks and Lake Tanganyika.

Maasai WanderingsSAFARIS

(www.maasaiwanderings.com; midrange)

Northern Tanzania safaris and treks.

Peace Matunda ToursCULTURAL TOUR

(www.peacematunda.org; budget)S

Cultural walks and tours around Arusha plus northern circuit wildlife safaris.

Roy SafarisSAFARIS, TREKKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.roysafaris.com; Serengeti Rd; upper midrange)

Budget and semiluxury camping safaris in the northern circuit, as well as competitively priced luxury lodge safaris and Kilimanjaro and Meru treks; known especially for their high-quality safari vehicles.

Safari BookingsSAFARIS

(www.safaribookings.com; all budgets)

A web-based safari planning resource with a large database of operators and a wealth of information on Tanzania's national parks.

Safari MakersSAFARIS, TREKKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.safarimakers.com; budget)

No-frills northern circuit camping and lodge safaris and treks.

Summit Expeditions & Nomadic ExperienceTREKKING, CYCLING

(www.nomadicexperience.com; upper midrange)

Expertly guided Kilimanjaro treks, plus cycling, walks and cultural excursions on the mountain's lower slopes and customised northern circuit wildlife safaris.

Tanzania JourneysSAFARIS

(www.tanzaniajourneys.com; midrange)S

Northern circuit, community-focused vehicle, active and cultural safaris, including Kilimanjaro treks, day hikes and cultural tours in the Moshi area.

Wayo AfricaSAFARIS, CYCLING

(www.wayoafrica.com; top end)

Northern circuit active and vehicle safaris, including Serengeti walking safaris plus visits to Hadzabe areas.

Eastern Arusha

oBlue HeronINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 555127; www.blue-heron-tanzania.com; Haile Selassie Rd; mains Tsh13,000-23,000; h9am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat)

Our pick of the garden restaurants that are a recurring theme out in Arusha's east, the Blue Heron gets the tricky combination of lounge bar and family restaurant just right. Sit under the leafy verandah or out on the lawn tables to enjoy a menu that ranges from paninis and soups up to beef tenderloin and creative specials like rice-and-broccoli fried balls with curry ratatouille.

Spices & HerbsETHIOPIAN, EUROPEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0685 313162, 0754 313162; Simeon Rd; mains Tsh8000-18,000; h10.30am-10.30pm; Wv)

Unpretentious al fresco spot serving two menus: Ethiopian and Continental – ignore the latter and order injera (Ethiopian bread) soaked in beef, chicken or lamb sauce, or yegbeg tibs (fried lamb with Ethiopian butter, onion, green peppers and rosemary). The service is good and there’s plenty of art on the walls.

TapaSafariSPANISH, INTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0757 009037; www.tapasafari.co.tz; Kanisa Rd; small/large tapas from Tsh3000/5000, mains Tsh10,000-35,000; h11am-10pm; Wv)

With a semi-outdoor setting, this restaurant and wine bar ticks many boxes. There are snacks, grills, pizza and pasta, but the real stars are the Spanish tapas and extensive list of South African wines to choose from. Sundays are especially popular with a four-course set menu (Tsh22,000).

oBay LeafEUROPEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-254 3055; www.bayleaftz.com; Vijana Rd; mains Tsh11,000-37,000; h8am-11pm; W)

Arusha’s poshest menu features dishes such as figs primavera (parma-wrapped brie and stuffed figs with sticky balsamic toffee), slow-cooked West Kili lamb shanks, and Wellington of game birds (wrapped in 'ethereal' filo pastry). It also offers a great wine list (by the glass and bottle), as well as separate lunch, dinner and Indian menus. Book ahead.

Outside Arusha

oRiver HouseINTERNATIONAL

(%0689 759067; www.shanga.org; Dodoma Rd; 4-course lunch US$18; h9.30am-4.30pm)S

An offshoot of the inspiring Shanga project, diners at River House are greeted with champagne and then served a huge and delicious four-course lunch in gorgeous gardens – it's part buffet, although soup and the dessert are served to your table. It’s an event as much as a meal. It's on the Burka Coffee Estate, 3km west of the Nakumatt supermarket; reservations are required.

Self-Catering

Village SupermarketSUPERMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Njiro Hill Rd; h9am-9pm)

Part of the Njiro Hill Shopping Complex southeast of the centre, this place is Arusha's best-stocked supermarket. There's a decent open-air food court outside the door and a cinema complex in the same building.

NakumattSUPERMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Dodoma Rd; h8.30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun)

On the edge of the city centre, this is the largest supermarket in central Arusha.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Via ViaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Boma Rd; h9am-4am Mon-Sat)

This cafe is a good spot for a drink and one of the best places to find out about upcoming cultural events, many of which are held here. On Thursday nights there’s karaoke and a live band. Things get started at 9pm and admission is a steep Tsh7000.

Masai CampCLUB

(Old Moshi Rd; admission Tsh5000; h9pm-dawn Fri & Sat)

Arusha’s loudest and brashest club is an institution on the Arusha party scene. The music is a mix of African and Western.

7Shopping

oShangaHANDICRAFTS

(%0689 759067; www.shanga.org; Dodoma Rd; h9am-4.30pm)S

What started out as a small enterprise making beaded necklaces has branched into furniture, paper, clothing and many other products, mostly using recycled materials and made by disabled workers. Their products are sold around the world, and a visit to their workshop and store just out of town (3km west of Nakumatt) is quite inspiring.

oSchwariHANDICRAFTS, HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Haile Selassie Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 8pm Fri)

Fabulous handicrafts and classy homewares, children's toys and national parks maps – Schwari has picked the best of local crafts to produce one of the loveliest collections on offer in Arusha. Better still, it's attached to the equally lovely Blue Heron.

Maasai Women Fair Trade CentreHANDICRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 210839, 027-254 4290; www.maasaiwomentanzania.org; Simeon Rd; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat)S

A project of Maasai Women Development Organisation (MWEDO), this small shop raises money for education and other projects. It has expensive, but high-quality beadwork (and a few other crafts), including some items seldom sold elsewhere, like Christmas ornaments. There's an on-site coffee shop.

KaseBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250 2640; Boma Rd; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)

Best bet for national park books and maps. If the Boma Rd shop doesn't have what you want, try the other branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250 2441; Joel Maeda St; h9am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) around the corner.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

After Zanzibar, Arusha is the worst place in Tanzania for street touts. Their main haunts are the bus stations and Boma Rd, but they’ll find you just about anywhere.

At night, take a taxi if you go out. It’s not safe to walk after dusk except around the market area. Even during the daytime, try to avoid carrying a bag or anything that could tempt a thief.

Immigration

Immigration OfficeIMMIGRATION, POLICE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; East Africa Rd; h7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri)

Near the Makongoro Rd junction.

Internet Access

Café BarristaINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Sokoine Rd; per hour Tsh1000; h7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-5pm Sun)

Has computers and wi-fi (the latter is free if you buy a meal).

New Safari HotelINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Boma Rd; per hour Tsh1000; h24hr)

In the hotel lobby.

Medical Services

Arusha Lutheran Medical CentreHOSPITAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-254 8030; www.selianlh.habari.co.tz; Makao Mapya Rd; h24hr)

The best medical facility in the region, but for anything truly serious, get yourself to Nairobi.

Moona’s PharmacyMEDICAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0754 309052; Sokoine Rd; h8.45am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)

Well-stocked pharmacy, west of NBC bank.

Money

Forex bureaus are clustered along Joel Maeda and India Sts, and Sokoine Rd near the Clock Tower. Sanya Bureau de Change, with several locations along Sokoine Rd, is open until 8pm Sundays and public holidays.

Tourist Information

Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (NCAA) Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-254 4625; www.ngorongorocrater.org; Boma Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Has free Ngorongoro booklets and a cool relief map of the conservation area.

Tanzania National Parks HeadquartersTOURIST INFORMATION

(Tanapa; GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250 3471; www.tanzaniaparks.com; Dodoma Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Just west of town, this office has info on Tanzania's national parks.

Tanzania Tourist Board Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(TTB; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250 3842, 027-250 3843; www.tanzaniatouristboard.com; Boma Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)

Knowledgeable and helpful staff have information on Arusha, Northern Circuit parks and other area attractions. They can book Cultural Tourism Program tours and provide a good free map of Arusha and Moshi. The office also keeps a ‘blacklist’ of tour operators and a list of registered tour companies.

Travel Agencies

SkylinkTRAVEL AGENCY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 351111, 027-250 9108; www.skylinktanzania.com; Goliondoi Rd)

Domestic and international flight bookings.

8Getting There & Away

Air

There are daily flights to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar (Coastal Aviation, Precision Air, Regional Air, Safari Plus, ZanAir), Nairobi (Kenya; Fly540, Precision Air), Seronera and other airstrips in Serengeti National Park (Air Excel, Coastal Aviation, Regional Air, Safari Plus), Mwanza (Precision Air), Lake Manyara National Park (Air Excel, Coastal Aviation, Regional Air) and Tarangire National Park (Coastal). Kigali (RwandAir) is served four times a week. Some sample one-way prices: Arusha–Dar es Salaam (Tsh239,000), Arusha–Mwanza (Tsh235,000) and Arusha–Seronera (US$175).

Most flights use Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA), about halfway between Moshi and Arusha, while small planes, mostly to the national parks, leave from Arusha airport, 8km west of town along the Dodoma Rd. Verify the departure point when buying your ticket.

Air ExcelAIRLINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-254 8429; www.airexcelonline.com; 2nd fl, Subzali (Exim Bank) Bldg, Goliondoi Rd)

Flights from Arusha to various Serengeti airstrips and Lake Manyara National Park.

Coastal AviationAIRLINE

(%0752 059650, 027-250 0343; www.coastal.co.tz; Arusha Airport)

Arusha to Lake Manyara, Serengeti and Ruaha National Parks, as well as West Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar.

Ethiopian AirlinesAIRLINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250 4231; www.ethiopianairlines.com; Boma Rd; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)

International services to Kilimanjaro International Airport from Addis Ababa.

FastjetAIRLINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 540540; www.fastjet.com/tz; 2nd fl, Blue Plaza, India St; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Good for low-cost domestic and other African destinations, with direct Kilimanjaro International Airport to Dar es Salaam flights and onward connections.

Precision AirAIRLINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 979490; www.precisionairtz.com; Boma Rd)

Flies to Dar, Mwanza and Zanzibar from both Kili International and Arusha Airports. Also handles Kenya Airways bookings.

Regional AirAIRLINE

(%0784 285753; www.regionaltanzania.com; Great North Rd)

Connects Arusha Airport with Serengeti and Lake Manyara airstrips, as well as Zanzibar.

RwandAirAIRLINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0732 978558; www.rwandair.com; Swahili St)

Twice weekly Kigali to Kili International service.

ZanAirAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %027-254 8877; www.zanair.com; Summit Centre, Dodoma Rd)

Connects Arusha with Dar es Salaam, Pemba and Zanzibar.

Bus

Arusha has two bus stations. The central bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) near the market is the biggest while the Makao Mapya bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wachagga St) (aka Dar Express bus stand) a little to the northwest handles most of the luxury buses to Dar es Salaam. The central bus station is intimidatingly chaotic in the morning and both are popular haunts for flycatchers and touts. If you get overwhelmed head straight for a taxi, or, if arriving at the central bus station, duck into the lobbies of one of the hotels across the street to get your bearings. If you want to avoid the bus stations altogether, most buses make a stop on the edge of town before going to the bus stations. Taxis will be waiting.

When leaving Arusha, the best thing to do is book your ticket the day before, so that in the morning when you arrive with your luggage you can get straight on your bus. For predawn buses, take a taxi to the bus station and ask the driver to drop you directly at your bus.

Despite what you may hear, there are no luggage fees (unless you have an extraordinarily large pack).

Dar es Salaam

The best companies to/from Dar es Salaam (eight to 10 hours) include the following. If you take an early departure, with luck you might be able to catch the last ferry to Zanzibar. Super luxury means there’s a toilet on board.

The last departure of the day to Dar es Salaam is the non-air-conditioned Akamba bus (Tsh25,000) that arrives from Nairobi (Kenya) around noon at its own office north of the city centre.

Dar ExpressBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 946155, 0754 525361; Wachagga St; luxury/full luxury Tsh25,000/30,000)

Generally the best company, Dar Express has luxury and full-luxury buses departing Makao Mapya bus station from 5.50am to 8am.

Metro ExpressBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wachagga St; luxury/full luxury Tsh33,000/36,000)

Metro Express has two early morning services to Dar from Makao Mapya bus station.

Moshi

Buses and minibuses (about Tsh3000, 1½ hours) run up to 8pm from the central bus station. It’s pricier (US$10) but more comfortable to take one of the Arusha–Nairobi (Kenya) shuttles.

Lushoto

Buses (Tsh12,000 to Tsh13,000, six hours) depart daily at 6am and 6.45am from the central bus station. It's often more comfortable (although more expensive) to take an express bus towards Dar es Salaam as far as Mombo, and then get local transport from there to Lushoto.

Tanga

Buses depart from the central bus station between 6am and noon (Tsh16,000, seven hours).

Babati, Kolo & Kondoa

Mtei Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0742 941707; Wachagga St) buses depart from the central bus station, but also stop at their own office on Kilombero Rd, 300m north of Nakumatt, where you won’t have to deal with touts. Buses leave hourly to Babati (Tsh6000, three hours) between 6am and 4pm. Their 6am bus continues on to Kondoa (Tsh15,000, seven hours) via Kolo (Tsh14,000, 6½ hours).

Dodoma

Early morning buses (Tsh25,000, 11 hours) via Singida from the central bus station, including Mtei Express.

Musoma

Various companies have buses (Tsh33,000, 11 to 12 hours) leaving at 6am from the central bus station, passing through Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Foreigners must pay the park entry fees (US$100) to ride this route.

Mwanza

Most buses to Mwanza (Tsh33,000 to Tsh38,000, 12 hours) leave the central bus station (some use Makao Mapya), between 6am and 7.30am; all travel via Singida.

8Getting Around

To/From Kilimanjaro International Airport

The starting price for taxis from town to KIA is US$50, though some drivers will go for less. Others will only go for more.

To/From Arusha Airport

Taxis from town charge from Tsh17,000. Any dalla-dalla heading out along the Dodoma Rd can drop you at the junction, from where you’ll have to walk almost 1.5km.

Car

A standard 4WD typically costs from US$150 per day with limited kilometres. A smaller RAV4-style 4WD, which isn’t ideal for wildlife viewing but can get to just about all attractions in and around the area’s national parks (albeit at a slower pace) in the dry season, can be had for US$600 per week and about 100km free per day. Drivers are included in the price. Book as early as possible because demand is high.

Arusha NaazCAR RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0786 239771, 027-250 2087; www.arushanaaz.net; Sokoine Rd; h9am-5pm)

FortesCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %027-250-6094; www.fortescarhire.com; off Factory Rd)

Excellent and experienced operator that also allows self-drive.

RainbowCAR RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0765 046006; www.rainbowcarhire.com; New Safari Hotel, Boma Rd)

Local Transport

Dalla-dallas (Tsh400) run along major roads from early until late. There are taxi stands all around the city centre and some park in front of most hotels, even many budget ones. A ride across town, from the Clock Tower to Makao Mapya bus station, for example, shouldn’t cost more than Tsh3500. Motorcycle taxi drivers will almost always tell you Tsh2000 for a ride in the city centre, but will go for Tsh1500 if you insist.

Arusha National Park

Arusha National Park (%0689 062363, 0767 536136; www.tanzaniaparks.com/arusha.html; adult/child US$45/15; h6.30am-6.30pm) is one Tanzania’s smallest (322 sq km) but most beautiful and topographically varied northern circuit parks. It’s dominated by Mt Meru, an almost perfect cone with a spectacular crater. Also notable is Ngurdoto Crater (often dubbed Little Ngorongoro) with its swamp-filled floor.

Wildlife is nowhere near as abundant as in the other northern circuit parks and the dense vegetation reduces visibility; nevertheless you can be fairly certain of sighting zebras, giraffes, waterbucks, bushbucks, klipspringers, dik-diks, buffaloes and hippos. There are no lions or rhinos due to poaching.

2Activities

Besides climbing Mt Meru (Click here) on the Momella Route, walking safaris (US$25 per person per half-day) are popular. Several trails pass below Mt Meru and another follows the Ngurdoto Crater rim trail (it’s not permitted to descend into the crater). Wayo Africa offers half-day Momella Lake canoe safaris (per person US$65 plus canoeing fee paid at the park gate US$20).

ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK

Why Go Climbing Mt Meru; canoe and walking safaris; fine birding; easy day trip from Arusha.

When to Go Year-round

Practicalities Drive in from Arusha or Moshi. The main entrance is at the southern Ngongongare gate. Momella gate is 12km further north near park headquarters, which is the main contact for making campsite or resthouse reservations. Both gates are open 6.30am to 6.30pm.

Budget Tips Join a pre-arranged safari or charter a dalla-dalla for the day with other travellers in Arusha: if not climbing Mt Meru, visit on a day trip to avoid camping fees.

4Sleeping & Eating

The park has three public campsites (camping US$30) in the vicinity of Momella Gate (including one with a shower).

Momella Route

There are two blocks of four-bed bunkhouses (‘huts’) spaced for a four-day trek. Especially during the July–August and December–January high seasons, they’re often full, so it’s a good idea to carry a tent (though if you camp, you’ll still need to pay hut fees). It’s currently not possible for independent trekkers to book beds in the bunkhouses, which operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Each bunkhouse has a cooking and eating area; bring your own stove and fuel. There’s a separate dorm for guides and porters.

Outside the Park

Kiboko LodgeLODGE

(%0784 652260; www.wfkibokolodge.com; s/d half board from US$75/130)S

Most employees at this nonprofit, charity-run lodge are former street kids who received training at the Watoto Foundation's vocational training school. But, it’s not just a feel-good project, it’s a great place to stay. The spacious and attractive stone cottages have fireplaces, hot water and safes, and the thatched-roof lounge is almost homey. It’s 5km down a 4WD-only road east of Ngongongare gate.

Meru View LodgeLODGE

(%0784 419232; www.meru-view-lodge.de; s/d US$100/140; iWs)

This unassuming place has a mix of large and small (all priced the same) cottages set in quiet grounds just 1km south of Ngongongare gate. They also run the nearby Ngurdoto Lodge, which has the same prices and similar facilities.

Hatari LodgeLODGE

(%0752 553456, 027-255 3456/7; www.hatarilodge.com; s/d full board US$480/640)

The most atmospheric and upmarket of the park lodges – the property was originally owned by Hardy Kruger, of Hatari! film fame – with ‘modern retro’ room decor, a prime location on large lawns frequented by giraffes, and views of Meru and Kilimanjaro on clear days. It’s on the edge of the park, about 2km north of Momela Gate.

Rivertrees Country InnLODGE

(%0732 971667, 027-255 3894; www.rivertrees.com; s/d/tr from US$180/220/290, 2-room River House US$1000; piWs)

With a genteel old-world ambience and excellent cuisine served family-style around a large wooden dining table, Rivertrees is a perfect post–national park stop. A variety of rooms and cottages, some wheelchair accessible, are spread throughout vast natural gardens with huge trees along the Usa River. It’s east of Usa River Village, set back off the Moshi Hwy.

8Getting There & Away

Arusha National Park is 25km outside Arusha, and Ngongongare gate is 6.5km north of the Arusha–Moshi road. From the northern entrance, by Momella gate, it’s possible to continue via a rough track that joins the main Nairobi highway near Lariboro.

Via public transport, there are four daily buses between Arusha and Ngare Nanyuki village (6km north of Momella gate) that depart Arusha from 1.30pm to 4pm and Ngare Nanyuki between 7am and 8am. The park has asked the drivers to wait at Ngongongare gate (Tsh3500, 1½ hours) while climbers pay all their fees, but if they don’t (which is common) you may have to catch the next bus or perhaps one of the irregular dalla-dallas heading to Ngare Nanyuki from Usa River. Another option is to take any bus between Arusha and Moshi, get off at Usa River village and take a taxi to Momella gate for about Tsh30,000. A taxi direct from Arusha should cost about Tsh45,000.

If you’re driving your own vehicle, officially the park prohibits parking during the climb, but unofficially it can be arranged with staff at headquarters: for a fee, of course.

TREKKING MT MERU

At 4566m, Mt Meru is Tanzania’s second-highest mountain. Although completely overshadowed by Kilimanjaro in the eyes of trekkers, it’s a spectacular volcanic cone with one of East Africa’s most scenic and rewarding climbs, since it involves a dramatic and exhilarating walk along the knife edge of the crater rim.

COSTS

Trekking companies in both Arusha and Moshi organise treks on Mt Meru. Most charge from US$450 to US$700 for four days. That said, you can do things quite easily on your own: park entrance, hut, rescue and guide fees total US$380 for a four-day trek. You’ll also need to add in the costs of food (which you should get in Arusha, as there’s nowhere to stock up near the park), and of transport to and from the park.

TIPPING

Park rangers receive a fixed monthly salary for their work, and get no additional payment from the park for guiding; the fee of US$15 per day is paid to the national park rather than to the guides themselves, which means that tips are much appreciated. Generally the rangers and porters on Mt Meru are hard-working and reliable, but as the popularity of Meru has increased, so has their expectation of the big tips demanded by their counterparts on Kilimanjaro. Although rare, it’s not unheard of for some poorly motivated rangers to ask you what their tip will be and if they’re not satisfied, they won’t continue up the mountain. If this happens, work out an arrangement to keep going, and then report them to headquarters when you get down the mountain.

As a guideline, for a good guide who has completed the full trek with you, plan on a tip of about US$50 per group. Cook and porter tips should be around US$30 and US$20 respectively. Tip more with top-end companies.

GUIDES & PORTERS

A ranger-guide is mandatory and can be arranged at Momella gate. Unlike on Kilimanjaro, guides on Meru are regular park rangers whose purpose is to assist (and protect) you in case you meet some of the park’s buffaloes or elephants, rather than to show you the way (which is why the park refers to ‘ranger services’ rather than guiding), although they do know the route. There has been a shortage of rangers, resulting in the need to trek in large groups (10 trekkers is normal and it could be as high as 20) sometimes. More staff have been promised.

Optional porters are also available at Momella gate. The charge is US$10 per porter per day and this is paid directly to them at the end of the trek. They come from one of the nearby villages and are not park employees so you’ll also need to pay their park entrance (Tsh1500 per day) and hut (Tsh800 per night) fees at Momella gate before starting to trek. Porters will carry rucksacks weighing up to 20kg (excluding their own food and clothing).

MAPS

The best map is the Maco Arusha National Park map.

MOMELLA ROUTE

The Momella Route is the only route up Mt Meru. It starts at Momella gate on the eastern side of the mountain and goes to the summit along the northern arm of the horseshoe crater. The route can be done comfortably in four days (three nights). Some trekkers do it in three days by combining Stages 3 and 4 of the trek, but the park authorities now actively discourage this and even if you’re in good shape, it’s so rushed it’s hard to enjoy your last day on the mountain. Trekkers aren’t allowed to begin after 3pm, which means that if you travel to the park by bus you’ll almost certainly have to camp and wait until the next day to start climbing.

While Meru is small compared with Kilimanjaro, don’t underestimate it: because of the steepness, many have found that Meru is almost as difficult a climb. And it’s still high enough to make the effects of altitude felt, so don’t try to rush up if you’re not properly acclimatised.

STAGE 1: MOMELLA GATE TO MIRIAKAMBA HUT

(10km, 4-5hr, 1000m ascent)

There are two routes, one long and one short, at the start of the climb. Most people prefer taking the mostly forested long route up and the short route down so that’s how the trek is described here. However, since the long route mostly follows a road, some people prefer the shorter route’s wilderness feel for both ascent and descent. Either way, don’t stray far from the ranger, there are many buffalo in this area.

From Momella gate, the road winds uphill for an hour to Fig Tree Arch, a parasitic wild fig that originally grew around two other trees, eventually strangling them. Now only the fig tree remains, with its distinctive arch large enough to drive a car through. After another hour the track crosses a large stream, just above Maio Falls and one hour further you’ll reach Kitoto Camp, with excellent views over the Momella Lakes and out to Kilimanjaro in the distance. It’s then one final hour to Miriakamba Hut (2514m). From Miriakamba you can walk to the Meru Crater floor (a two- to three-hour return trip) either in the afternoon of Stage 1, before Stage 2, or during Stage 4, but you need to let your guide know you want to do this before starting the climb. The path across the floor leads to Njeku Viewpoint on a high cliff overlooking a waterfall, with excellent views of the Ash Cone and the entire extent of the crater.

STAGE 2: MIRIAKAMBA HUT TO SADDLE HUT

(4km, 3-5hr, 1250m ascent)

From Miriakamba the path climbs steeply up through pleasant glades between the trees to reach Topela Mbogo (Buffalo Swamp) after 45 minutes and Mgongo Wa Tembo (Elephant Ridge) after another 30 minutes. From the top of Mgongo Wa Tembo there are great views down into the crater and up to the main cliffs below the summit. Continue through some open grassy clearings and over several stream beds (usually dry) to Saddle Hut (3570m).

From Saddle Hut a side trip to the summit of Little Meru (3820m) takes about an hour and gives impressive views of Meru’s summit, the horseshoe crater, the top of the Ash Cone and the sheer cliffs of the crater’s inner wall. As the sun sets behind Meru, casting huge jagged shadows across the clouds, the snows on Kili turn orange and then pink as the light fades.

STAGE 3: SADDLE HUT TO MERU SUMMIT & RETURN

(5km, 4-5hr, 816m ascent, plus 5km, 2-3hr, 816m descent)

This stage, along a very narrow ridge between the outer slopes of the mountain and the sheer cliffs of the inner crater, is one of the most dramatic and exhilarating sections of trekking anywhere in East Africa. During the rainy season, ice and snow can occur on this section of the route, so take care. If there’s no mist, the views from the summit are spectacular. You can see the volcanoes of Kitumbeini and Lengai along the Rift Valley Escarpment and also far across the plains of the Maasai Steppe beyond Arusha.

If you’re looking forward to watching the sunrise behind Kilimanjaro, but you’re not keen on attempting this section in the dark, the views at dawn are just as impressive from Rhino Point (3814m), about an hour from Saddle Hut, as they are from the summit. Perhaps even more so because you’ll also see the main cliffs of the crater’s inner wall being illuminated by the rising sun.

STAGE 4: SADDLE HUT TO MOMELLA GATE

(5km, 3-5hr, 2250m descent)

From Saddle Hut, retrace the Stage 2 route to Miriakamba (1½ to 2½ hours). From Miriakamba, the short path descends gradually down the ridge directly to Momella gate (1½ to 2½ hours). It goes through forest some of the way, then open grassland, where giraffes and zebras are often seen. Most companies will finish the day with a wildlife drive through the park.

Ras Mkumbuu

Mkame Ndume (Pujini) Ruins

Wambaa

Kiweni

Mkoani & Around

Wete

PEMBA FLYING FOX

Tumbe

Ngezi Vumawimbi Forest Reserve

Kigomasha Peninsula

Northeastern Tanzania

Bagamoyo

Saadani National Park

SAADANI NATIONAL PARK

Pangani

Town Centre

North of Pangani

Ushongo Beach

Sange Beach

Tanga

Central Tanga

Outside Tanga

Muheza

Usambara Mountains

Amani Nature Reserve

Lushoto

HIKES FROM LUSHOTO

In & Near town

Outside Town

Mtae

Soni

Mombo

Northern Tanzania

Arusha

City Centre & Clock Tower

ARUSHA TREKKING OPERATORS

Eastern Arusha

CULTURAL TOURISM PROGRAMS

Outside Arusha

City Centre & Clock Tower

NORTHERN CIRCUIT SAFARI OPERATORS

Eastern Arusha

Outside Arusha

Self-Catering

Arusha National Park

ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK

Momella Route

Outside the Park

TREKKING MT MERU

COSTS

TIPPING

GUIDES & PORTERS

MAPS

MOMELLA ROUTE

STAGE 1: MOMELLA GATE TO MIRIAKAMBA HUT

STAGE 2: MIRIAKAMBA HUT TO SADDLE HUT

STAGE 3: SADDLE HUT TO MERU SUMMIT & RETURN

STAGE 4: SADDLE HUT TO MOMELLA GATE