Tsavo West National Park

Welcome to the wilderness. Tsavo West ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %043-30049, 0724954745, Nairobi 020-600800; www.kws.org/parks/parks_reserves/TWNP; adult/child per day US$75/40; h6am-6pm) is one of Kenya’s larger national parks (9065 sq km), covering a huge variety of landscapes, from swamps, natural springs and rocky peaks to extinct volcanic cones, rolling plains and sharp outcrops dusted with greenery.

This is a park with a whiff of legend about it, first for its famous man-eating lions in the late 19th century and then for its devastating levels of poaching in the 1980s. Despite the latter, there’s still plenty of wildlife here, although you’ll have to work harder and be much more patient than in Amboseli or the Masai Mara to see them all. If possible, come here with some time to spare to make the most of it.

Tsavo East & West National Parks

1Top Sights

1Shetani Lava FlowsB3

1Sights

2Aruba DamF6

3Chaimu Crater & Roaring RocksC4

4Mudanda RockE5

5Mzima SpringsB4

6Ngulia Rhino SanctuaryD4

7Rhino ValleyC4

8Tsavo East National ParkE1

9Tsavo West National ParkB5

4Sleeping

10Ashnil Aruba LodgeF6

11Finch Hatton's Safari CampB4

12Kilaguni Serena LodgeC3

Kitani BandasB4

13KWS CampsiteE6

14KWS CampsiteC2

15Ol DonyoA1

16Rhino Valley LodgeC4

17Satao CampG6

18Severin Safari CampB4

19Tsavo Mashariki CampE6

20Voi Safari LodgeE6

1Sights & Activities

Ngulia Rhino SanctuaryWILDLIFE RESERVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h4-6pm)

At the base of Ngulia Hills, this 90-sq-km area is surrounded by a 1m-high electric fence, and provides a measure of security for, at last count, 78 of the park's highly endangered black rhinos. There are driving tracks and waterholes within the enclosed area, but the rhinos are mainly nocturnal and the chances of seeing one are slim – black rhinos, apart from being understandably shy and more active at night, are browsers, not grazers and prefer to pass their time in thick undergrowth.

Rhino ValleyPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This is one of our favourite areas for wildlife watching, with plenty of antelope species keeping a careful eye out for the resident lions, leopards and cheetahs. You’ll also see elephants, giraffes and, if you’re lucky, black rhinos. Birdlife is also particularly diverse here. The signposted ‘Rhino Valley Circuit’ is a good place to start, while anywhere along the Mukui River’s ponds and puddles is a place to watch and wait.

Ngulia HillsMOUNTAIN

Rising more than 600m above the valley floor and to a height over 1800m above sea level, this jagged ridgeline ranks among the prettiest of all Tsavo landforms, providing a backdrop to Rhino Valley. The hills can be climbed with permission from the warden, while the peaks are also a recognised flyway for migrating birds heading south from late September through to November.

Mzima SpringsSPRING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Mzima Springs is an oasis of green in the west of the park and produces an incredible 250 million litres of fresh water a day. The springs, whose source rises in the Chyulu Hills, provides the bulk of Mombasa’s fresh water. A walking trail leads along the shoreline. The drought in 2009 took a heavy toll on the springs’ hippo population; the population is stable at around 20 individuals. There are also crocodiles and a wide variety of birdlife.

Chyulu Gate & the WestPARK

The plains, rocky outcrops and light woodland between Kilaguni Serena Lodge and the Chyulu gate are good for zebras and other herbivores, and sustains a healthy population of lions, leopards and spotted hyenas – the epic battle between rival hyena clans that we witnessed here on our last visit remains one of our favourite Tsavo memories. A leopard was also commonly seen early morning along the road close to the airstrip.

Chaimu Crater & Roaring RocksLOOKOUT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Just southeast of Kilaguni Serena Lodge, these two natural features offer stunning views of the Chyulu Hills and birds of prey circling high above the plains. The Roaring Rocks can be climbed in about 15 minutes; the name comes from the wind whistling up the escarpment and the persistent drone of cicadas. While there’s little danger when walking these trails, the KWS warns in its guidebook to the park that in Chaimu Crater ‘be wary when exploring since the crater and lava may shelter snakes and large sleeping mammals’.

oShetani Lava FlowsLOOKOUT, VOLCANO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

About 4km west of the Chyulu gate of Tsavo West National Park, on the road to Amboseli, are the spectacular Shetani lava flows. ‘Shetani’ means ‘devil’ in Kiswahili: the flows were formed only a few hundred years ago and local peoples believed that it was the devil himself emerging from the earth. This vast expanse of folded black lava spreads for 50 sq km across the savannah at the foot of the Chyulu Hills, looking strangely as if Vesuvius dropped its comfort blanket here.

Tsavo River & the SouthRIVER

Running west–east through the park, this lovely year-round river is green-shaded and surrounded for much of its path by doum palms. Along with Mzima Springs, the river provides aesthetic relief from the vast semi-arid habitats that dominate the park. The trees all along the river are known to shelter leopards.

TSAVO WEST NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

For the dramatic scenery, wilderness and good mix of predators (lion, leopard, cheetah and hyena), prey (lesser kudu, gazelle, impala) and other herbivores (elephant, rhino, zebra, oryx and giraffe).

When to Go

Year-round. The dry season (May to October and January to March) is best for spotting wildlife. November to March is the best time to see migratory birds.

Practicalities

Drive in from Mtito Andei or Tsavo Gate along the Nairobi–Mombasa Rd. There is a campsite close to the park entrance and lodges throughout the park.

Budget Tips

Rent a matatu with other travellers in Mtito Andei; if staying in a lodge, June is much cheaper than July.

4Sleeping & Eating

KWS CampsiteCAMPGROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; camping US$20)

This public campsite is at Komboyo, near the Mtito Andei gate. Facilities are basic, so be prepared to be self-sufficient.

Kitani BandasBANDAS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-211000, Nairobi 020-2684247; www.severinsafaricamp.com; bandas s/d US$81/124; pWs)

Run by the same people as Severin Safari Camp, Kitani is located next to a waterhole, about 2km past its sister site, and offers the cheapest Kili views in the park. These bandas (which have their own simple kitchens), have far more style than your average budget camp and you can use Severin’s facilities (including the pool and free wi-fi). Great value.

oRhino Valley LodgeBANDAS

(Ngulia Bandas; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0721328567; www.tsavolodgesand camps.com; bandas s/d US$150/200; p)

This hillside camp is one of Tsavo’s best bargains and one of the most reasonably priced choices in the parks of southern Kenya. The thatched stone cottages and tents perch on the lower slopes of the Ngulia Hills with sweeping views of Rhino Valley, overlooking a stream where leopards are known to hide out. The decor is designer rustic with plenty of space and private terraces.

oKilaguni Serena LodgeLODGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %045-622376; www.serenahotels.com; s/d US$240/320; is)

As you’d expect from the upmarket Serena chain, this lodge is extremely comfortable with semi-luxurious rooms, many of which have been recently renovated. The centrepiece here is a splendid bar and restaurant overlooking a busy illuminated waterhole – the vista stretches all the way from Mt Kilimanjaro to the Chyulu Hills.

Severin Safari CampTENTED CAMP

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Nairobi 020-2684247; www.severinsafaricamp.com; s/d full board from US$240/370; pWs)S

This fantastic complex of thatched luxury tents just keeps getting better. They’ve recently overhauled the tents, added a luxury swimming pool and spa, and even a tented gym. The staff offers a personal touch, the food is outstanding and the tents are large and luxurious despite costing considerably less than others elsewhere in the park. Hippo and lion visits are fairly frequent and there are Kilimanjaro views from some points on the property.

Finch Hatton’s Safari CampTENTED CAMP

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0716021818, Nairobi 020-8030936; www.finchhattons.com; s/d US$1000/1580, luxury family tent US$3360, presidential ste US$3750; pWs)S

This upmarket tented camp, which is distinguished by its signature bone china and gold shower taps (guests are requested to dress for dinner), was named after Denys Finch Hatton, the playboy hunter and lover of Karen Blixen. He died at Tsavo, despite his obsession with maintaining civility in the middle of the bush.

POACHING IN TSAVO

As poaching reached epidemic proportions in Kenya in the 1980s, Tsavo was very much on the frontline – not surprising given the park’s size and terrain. In a few short years, the elephant population dropped from 45,000 to just 5000, and rhinos were almost wiped out entirely; at the height of the crisis, an estimated 5000 elephants were being killed every year. Populations are slowly recovering, and, as of early 2011, there are close to 12,500 elephants in the two parks, but less than 100 rhinos, down from about 9000 in 1969.

Sadly, there has been a recent upsurge in poaching once again, with the northern half of Tsavo East (off-limits to travellers) of particular concern, as well as many areas bordering the two Tsavo parks; the area around Maktau Gate at the southern edge of Tsavo West has been particularly hard hit.

8Information

Fuel is generally available at Kilaguni Serena Lodge and Severin Safari Camp; fill up before entering park.

The Tsavo West National Park map and guidebook is available from Mtito Andei Gate.

8Getting There & Away

There are six gates into Tsavo West, but the main access is off the Nairobi-Mombasa Highway at Mtito Andei and Tsavo Gates.

Tsavo East National Park

Kenya’s largest national park, Tsavo East National Park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0775563672, 0722290009, Nairobi 020-6000800; www.kws.org/parks/parks_reserves/TENP; adult/child per day US$75/40; h6am-6pm) has an undeniable wild and primordial charm and is a terrific wildlife-watching destination. Although one of Kenya’s largest rivers flows through the middle of the park and the contrast between the permanent greenery of the river and the endless grasses and thorn trees that characterise much of the park is visually arresting, the landscape here lacks the drama of Tsavo West. Tsavo East is markedly flatter and drier than its sister park. The flipside is that spotting wildlife is generally easier thanks to the thinly spread foliage.

TSAVO EAST NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Wilderness, red elephants and leopards, lions and cheetahs. The park also has close to 500 bird species.

When to Go

June to February. Wildlife concentrations are highest in the dry season (September to October and January to early March).

Practicalities

Drive in from Voi, Mandanyi or Tsavo gates along the Nairobi–Mombasa Rd. The Sala and Buchuma gates are good for Mombasa. There are a small number of lodges and camps throughout the park or close to Voi Gate.

Budget Tips

Rent a matatu or organise a budget safari with other travellers in Voi or the coast; use public campsites.

1Sights & Activities

Kanderi SwampRIVER

Around 10km from Voi Gate, the lovely area of green known as Kanderi Swamp is home to a resident pride of lions, and elephants also congregate near here; this is one of only two water sources in the park during the dry season. The landscape here has a lovely backdrop of distant hills. A number of vehicle tracks also follow the contours of the Voi River; keep an eye on the overhanging branches for leopards.

Aruba DamLAKE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Some 30km east of Voi Gate is the Aruba Dam, which spans the Voi River. It also attracts heavy concentrations of diverse wildlife; one the park’s regularly spotted lion prides ranges around here. Away to the east and southeast, all the way down to the Buchuma Gate, the open grasslands provide the perfect habitat for cheetahs and sightings are more common here than anywhere else in southeastern Kenya.

Galana RiverRIVER

Running through the heart of the park and marking the northernmost point in the park that most visitors are allowed to visit, the Galana River, which combines the waters of the Tsavo and Athi Rivers, cuts a green gash across the dusty plains. Surprisingly few visitors make it even this far and sightings of crocs, hippos, lesser kudus, waterbucks, dikdiks and, to a lesser extent, lions and leopards are relatively common.

Mudanda RockMOUNTAIN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Towering over a natural dam near the Manyani gate, this natural formation runs for over 1.5km. It attracts elephants in the dry season and is reminiscent of Australia’s Uluru (Ayers Rock), albeit on a smaller scale. Leopards and elephants are among the wildlife to watch out for here.

4Sleeping & Eating

Inside the Park

KWS CampsiteCAMPGROUND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camping US$20)

Decent site with toilets, showers and a communal kitchen.

Voi Safari LodgeLODGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Mombasa 041-4718610; www.safari-hotels.com; s/d US$190/290; Ws)

Just 4km from Voi Gate, this is a long, low complex perched on the edge of an escarpment overlooking an incredible sweep of savannah. There’s an attractive rock-cut swimming pool, as well as a natural waterhole that draws elephants, buffaloes and the occasional predator; a photographers’ hide sits at the level of the waterhole. Rooms are attractive and many have superlative views.

Ashnil Aruba LodgeLODGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Nairobi 020-4971008; www.ashnilhotels.com; s/d full board US$262/350; pis)

A stone’s throw from the wildlife-rich Aruba Dam, this lodge has attractively decorated rooms decked out in safari prints. In the heart of the park, it’s an ideal starting point for most Tsavo East safaris. Wildlife wanders around the property’s perimeter at regular intervals.

Satao CampTENTED CAMP

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Mombasa 041-475074, Nairobi 020-2434600; www.sataocamp.com; s/d US$337/436; p)

Located on the banks of the Voi River, this luxury camp is run by the experienced safari operator Southern Cross Safaris. There are 20 canopied tents, all of which are perfectly spaced within sight of a waterhole that’s known to draw lions, cheetahs and elephants on occasion.

Outside the Park

oTsavo Mashariki CampTENTED CAMP

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0729179443; www.masharikicamp.com; s/d from US$131/185)

The closest camp to Voi Gate just outside the park, this charming little Italian-run place has some fine tents made out of all-natural local materials; the family tent is brilliant and there are also two stone-built cottages. Best of all, the prices here put many other tented camps to shame. Highly recommended.

8Information

Fuel is available in Voi; fill up before entering park.

The Tsavo East National Park map and guidebook is available from Voi Gate.

8Getting There & Away

A track through the park follows the Galana River from the Tsavo gate to the Sala gate; others fan out from Voi gate.

If travelling to/from Nairobi or Tsavo West, use the Voi, Tsavo and Manyani gates, to/from Mombasa use the Sala or Buchuma gates.

Voi

pop pop 17,152

Voi is a key service town at the intersection of the Nairobi–Mombasa road, the road to Moshi in Tanzania and the access road to the main Voi gate of Tsavo East National Park. While there is little reason to spend any more time here than is needed to get directions, fill up on petrol, change money and buy some snacks for the road, you’ll inevitably pass through here at some point.

Frequent buses and matatus run to/from Mombasa (KSh200 to KSh500, three hours), and buses to Nairobi (KSh500 to KSh1200, six hours). There are at least daily matatus to Taveta (KSh450, two hours), on the Tanzanian border.

Mombasa & the South Coast

There’s something in the air here. Thanks to the long interplay of Africa, India and Arabia, the coast feels different to the rest of Kenya. Its people, the Swahili, have created a distinctive Indian Ocean society – built on the scent of trade with distant shores – that lends real romance to the coast’s sugar-white beaches and to a city the poets have embraced for as long as ivory has been traded for iron.

Mombasa

pop 939,000

Mombasa: city of salt and of spice, of dreams and of battles, of poetry, of seafaring stories and of wave upon wave of traders from faraway lands. "It does not reveal the great secret it holds," wrote the classical Swahili poet Muyaka about his hometown. "Even those who are well-informed do not comprehend it."

Indeed, the city dubbed Kisiwa Cha Mvita in Swahili – the Island of War – has many faces. It is muttered chants echoing over the flagstones of a Jain temple, the ecstatic passion of the call to prayer, the teal break of a vanishing wave and the sight of a Zanzibar-bound dhow slipping over the horizon. It is row upon row of purveyors of herbal medicine, it is cows dozing outside hair-braiding salons, it is birds swooping low over great piles of smoking trash, and buildings so scorched by the sun that their burnt skin peels away, just like ours.

Mombasa has more in common with Dakar or Dar Es Salaam than Nairobi; its blend of India, Arabia and Africa can be intoxicating. But it's also grimy and sleazy, with deep ethnic tensions and security concerns that threaten to boil over. But what would you expect from East Africa’s largest port? Cities by the docks always attract mad characters, and Mombasa’s come from all over the world.

Perhaps it’s best to let the Swahili people themselves describe their city in their native tongue with an old line of poetry and proverb: Kongowea nda mvumo, maji maangavu. Male! (‘Mombasa is famous, but its waters are dangerously deep. Beware!’).

Mombasa

1Sights

1Fort JesusD2

2Mandhry MosqueD2

3Old Law CourtsC2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Tamarind DhowD1

4Sleeping

5YWCA MombasaC4

5Eating

6Hunter's Steak HouseD1

7RozinaD2

6Drinking & Nightlife

8Jahazi Coffee HouseC2

9New Florida NightclubB5

Information

10Fort Jesus Forex BureauD2

11KWS OfficeD3

12Standard Chartered BankC2

Transport

13FerryA5

14Local Bus & Matatu StandA5

15Mombasa–Nairobi TrainA2

1Sights

In this city of almost one million inhabitants, 70% of whom are Muslim, there are a lot of mosques. Unfortunately, non-Muslims are usually not allowed to enter them, although you can have a look from the outside.

Fort JesusMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child KSh800/400; h8am-6pm)

Fort Jesus, a Unesco World Heritage treasure, is Mombasa’s most-visited site. The metre-thick walls, frescoed interiors, traces of European graffiti, Arabic inscriptions and Swahili embellishment aren’t just evocative, they’re a record of the history of Mombasa and the coast writ in stone. The fort was built by the Portuguese in 1593 to serve as both symbol and headquarters of their permanent presence in this corner of the Indian Ocean.

It’s ironic, then, that the construction of the fort marked the beginning of the end of local Portuguese hegemony. Between Portuguese sailors, Omani soldiers and Swahili rebellions, the fort changed hands at least nine times between 1631 and the early 1870s, when it finally fell under British control and was used as a jail.

The fort was the final project completed by Joao Batista Cairato, whose buildings can be found throughout Portugal’s Eastern colonies, from Old Goa to Old Mombasa. The building is an opus of period military design – assuming the structure was well manned, it would have been impossible to approach its walls without falling under the cone of interlocking fields of fire.

These days the fort houses a museum built over the former barracks. The exhibits should give a good insight into Swahili life and culture but, like the rest of the complex, it’s all poorly labelled and woefully displayed, which, considering it’s the city’s number-one tourist attraction, is fairly scandalous.

Elsewhere within the fort compound, the Mazrui Hall, where flowery spirals fade across a wall topped with wooden lintels left by the Omani Arabs, is worthy of note. In another room, Portuguese sailors scratched graffiti that illustrates the multicultural naval identity of the Indian Ocean, leaving walls covered with four-pointed European frigates, three-pointed Arabic dhows and the coir-sewn ‘camels of the ocean’: the elegant Swahili mtepe (traditional sailing vessel). Nearby, a pair of whale bones serves in the undignified role of children’s see-saw. The Omani house, in the San Felipe bastion in the northwestern corner of the fort, was built in the late 18th century. It was closed at the time of research, but used to house a small exhibition of Omani jewellery and artefacts. The eastern wall includes an Omani audience hall and the Passage of the Arches, which leads under the pinkish-brown coral to a double-azure vista of sea floating under sky.

If you arrive early in the day, you may avoid group tours, but the same can’t be said of extremely persistent guides, official and unofficial, who will swarm you the minute you approach the fort. Some of them can be quite useful and some can be duds. Unfortunately, you’ll have to use your best judgement to suss out which is which. Official guides charge KSh500 for a tour of Fort Jesus or Old Town; unofficial guides charge whatever they can. If you don’t want a tour, shake off your guide with a firm but polite 'no', otherwise they’ll launch into their spiel and expect a tip at the end. Alternatively, you can buy the Fort Jesus guide booklet from the ticket desk and go it alone.

Old Law CourtsART GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nkrumah Rd; h8am-6pm)F

Dating from 1902, the old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have been converted into an informal gallery, with regularly changing displays of local art, Kenyan crafts, school competition pieces and votive objects from various tribal groups.

Spice MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Langoni Rd; hto sunset)

This market, which stretches along Nehru and Langoni Rds west of Old Town, is an evocative, sensory overload – expect lots of jostling, yelling, wheeling, dealing and, of course, the exotic scent of stall upon stall of cardamom, pepper, turmeric, curry powders and everything else that makes eating enjoyable.

Mandhry MosqueMOSQUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sir Mbarak Hinawy Rd)

Mandhry Mosque in Old Town is an excellent example of Swahili architecture, which combines the elegant flourishes of Arabic style with the comforting, geometric patterns of African design – note, for example, the gently rounded minaret.

Khonzi MosqueMOSQUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Digo Rd)

One of the more modern Islamic buildings in Mombasa.

Holy Ghost CathedralCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nkrumah Rd)

The Christian Holy Ghost Cathedral is a very European hunk of neo-Gothic buttressed architecture, with massive fans in the walls to cool its former colonial congregations.

Lord Shiva TempleTEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mwinyi Ab Rd)

Mombasa’s large Hindu population doesn’t lack for places of worship. The enormous Lord Shiva Temple is airy, open and set off by an interesting sculpture garden.

DON'T MISS

JUMBA LA MTWANA

These Swahili ruins ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child KSh500/100; h8am-6pm), just north of Mtwapa Creek, have as much archaeological grandeur as the more famous Gede Ruins. Jumba la Mtwana means ‘Big House of Slaves’ and locals believe the town was once an important slave port. Notice the Arabic inscription on the stela adjacent to the nearby graveyard: ‘Every Soul Shall Taste Death’. Underneath is a small hole representing the opening all humans must pass through on the way to paradise.

In the dying evening light, your imagination will be able to run riot with thoughts of lost treasures, ghosts, pirates and abandoned cities. The remains of buildings, with their exposed foundations for mangrove beam poles, ablution tanks, floors caked with millipedes and swarms of safari ants, and the twisting arms of 600-year-old trees – leftover from what may have been a nearby kaya (sacred forest) – are quite magical.

Slaves may or may not have been traded here, but turtle shell, rhino horn and ambergris (sperm-whale intestinal secretions, used for perfume – mmm) all were. In return, Jumba received goods such as Chinese dishes, the fragments of which can be seen in the floors of some buildings today. While here, keep your eyes peeled for the upper-wall holes that mark where mangrove support beams were affixed, the House of Many Doors, which is believed to have been a guesthouse (no breakfast included), and dried-out, 40m-deep wells. You’d be remiss to miss the Mosque by the Sea, which overlooks a crystal-sharp vista of the Indian Ocean (and don’t forget your swimmers for a splash in the empty waters here).

The custodian gives excellent tours for a small gratuity.

2Activities

Tamarind DhowBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-4471747; www.tamarind.co.ke; lunch/dinner cruise per person US$50/75; hlunch/dinner cruise departs 1pm/6.30pm)

This top-billing cruise is run by the posh Tamarind restaurant chain. It embarks from the jetty below Tamarind restaurant in Nyali and includes a harbour tour and fantastic meal. Prices include a complimentary cocktail and transport to and from your hotel, and the dhow itself is a beautiful piece of work.

Jahazi MarineBOAT TOUR

(%01714967717; adult/child from €60/30)

This other big operator offers a range of dhow trips.

Central Mombasa

1Sights

1Holy Ghost CathedralE7

2Khonzi MosqueF5

3Lord Shiva TempleG7

4Spice MarketG3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Ketty ToursC6

6Natural World Tours & SafarisC6

4Sleeping

7Berachah Guest HouseE5

8Castle Royal HotelD6

9Lotus HotelH7

10Pride InnB4

11Tana Rest HouseC2

5Eating

12Shehnai RestaurantD5

13Singh RestaurantC2

14Tarboush CafeG6

6Drinking & Nightlife

15CasablancaC6

Transport

16Buses & Matatus to Malindi & LamuF1

17Buses to Arusha & Moshi (Mwembe Tayari Health Centre)D2

18Buses to Dar es Salaam & TangaC2

19Matatus to NyaliE4

20Matatus to Voi & WundanyiC2

21Mombasa RahaF1

22Mombasa RahaC2

23Simba CoachesF1

24TSS ExpressF2

TOURS & SAFARIS FROM MOMBASA

A number of tour companies offer standard tours of the Old Town and Fort Jesus (per person from US$45), plus safaris to Shimba Hills National Reserve and Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks. Most safaris are expensive lodge-based affairs, but there are a few camping safaris to Tsavo East and West.

The most popular safari is an overnight tour to Tsavo, and though most people enjoy these, be warned that a typical two-day, one-night safari barely gives you time to get there and back, and that your animal-spotting time will be very limited. It’s much better to add in at least one extra night.

We receive a constant stream of emails from travellers who feel that their promised safari has not lived up to expectations, but the following two companies have received positive feedback.

Natural World Tours & SafarisTOUR, SAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-2226715; www.naturaltoursandsafaris.com; Jeneby House, Moi Ave)

The hard-sell prattled by the company ‘representatives’ on the street can quickly put you off, but otherwise it has a reputation for delivering what it promises.

Ketty ToursTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-2315178; www.kettysafari.com; Ketty Plaza, Moi Ave)

Organised and reliable.

4Sleeping

Many people choose to skip Mombasa and head straight for the beaches to the south and north, but we’d suggest spending at least one night in town. It’s difficult to appreciate Mombasa’s energy without waking up to the call to prayer and the honk of a tuk-tuk. All the places listed here have fans and mosquito nets as a minimum requirement.

oBerachah Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0725864704; Haile Selassie Rd; s/d KSh1000/1600)

This popular central choice is located in the heart of Mombasa’s best eat streets. It has variable but clean rooms in a range of unusual shapes. It’s on the 2nd floor – on the stair landing, turn right into the hotel, not left into the evangelical church.

YWCA MombasaHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0412229856; cnr Kaunda & Kiambu Aves; r from KSh1600)

If you're not already a member, you'll have to sign up (KSh300) to use this YWCA. It's primarily for women, but there is a men's floor as well. Rooms can also be split between mixed-sex couples or groups. There's a cheap restaurant that's popular with Kenyan students.

Tana Rest HouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-490550; cnr Mwembe Tayari & Gatundu Rds; s/d KSh400/500)

Probably the cheapest of Mombasa's safe guesthouses, this place isn't pretty on the outside (the name looks like it's been scrawled with a felt tip pen), but the rooms are clean and your purse will thank you. Perfectly fine for a night or two.

oLotus HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-2313207; www.lotushotelmombasa.com; Cathedral Lane, off Nkrumah Rd; s/d KSh4300/5000)

Close to the cathedral, this hotel is a reliable mid-range bet. Both the hot water and air-conditioning were working when we took up residence, and the breakfasts set us up for the day. Plus, it's clean and slightly quieter than most other city-centre options.

oCastle Royal HotelHISTORIC HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Nairobi booking office 020-315680; www.sentrim-hotels.net; Moi Ave; s/d US$95/130; aiW)

With old-fashioned balconies and a dated, colonial exterior, this place scrubs up pretty well on the inside. The rooms have had a makeover and are rather nice indeed, plus there's a beautiful terrace looking out over the city. Breakfast includes coconut beans and mandazi (semisweet doughnuts), or bacon and croissants.

oPride InnBUSINESS HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-2317895; www.prideinn.co.ke; Haile Selassie Rd; s/d US$80/$105; aiW)

Right on Haile Selassie Rd, this hotel makes up in convenience what it lacks in soundproofing. The rooms are business quality and well cared for, but they're not fancy. A solid, mildly stylish option for a short Mombasa stay.

5Eating

If an endless parade of chicken, chips, meat and corn roasted beyond palatability, and starch that tastes like…well, nothing, doesn’t do it for you, then here comes the coast. Flavours! Fresh seafood! Spice! Anything but more ugali (maize- or cassava-based staple)!

Mombasa is good for street food: stalls sell cassava, samosas, bhajis, kebabs and the local take on pizza (meat and onions wrapped in soft dough and fried). A few dish out stew and ugali. For dessert, vendors ply you with haluwa (an Omani version of Turkish delight), fried taro root, sweet baobab seeds and sugared doughnuts.

oShehnai RestaurantINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-2224801; Fatemi House, Maungano Rd; mains from KSh500; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun)

This reputable mughlai (North Indian) curry house does delicious things such as gosht palakwalla (lamb with masala and spinach) and scrambled eggs tossed with green chillies and cumin. It's complemented by nice decor that’s been copied from Indian restaurants the world over (pumped-in sitar music thrown in for free). It’s very popular with well-heeled Indian families, probably because the food is authentic and very good. Add 25% in various taxes to all prices.

Tarboush CafeINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Makadara Rd; mains KSh150-350)

Most people come to this open-air, park-side restaurant for the chicken tikka, and rightfully so. Eat it with lovely soft naan bread, rice or chips. There’s also a good range of Swahili staples and some curries. Despite being packed at all hours, the service remains fast and friendly.

oRozinaKENYAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-2312642; Africa Hotel, Sir Mbarak Hinawy Rd; mains around KSh800)

Rozina makes for a good lunch stop after a morning exploring Fort Jesus (it's a short walk away). Locals will tell you it's been around almost as long as the fort itself, and it retains a dose of old Swahili charm. The ginger-infused seafood grills are excellent.

oHunter's Steak HouseSTEAKHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-4474759; Mkomani Rd, 'Königsallee', Nyali; mains KSh450-2000; hWed-Mon)

Nyama choma this isn't. Instead you'll find thick sizzling steaks, served with serious comfort food such as garlic mushrooms, crunchy fries and husks of toasted bread. In fact, if you squint a little and stare at the decor you could almost be in the American Midwest. There's a nice range of beers, too.

oSingh RestaurantINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733702145; Mwembe Tayari Rd; mains KSh350-850)

Another great Indian restaurant steeped in Mombasa history: the owner first opened the doors in 1962 to serve arriving and departing railway passengers. The decor is plain, but your taste buds won't notice. Even things that don't sound great on paper, such as egg curry, are divine here. We rate the aubergine dishes highly.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oJahazi Coffee HouseCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0720777313; Ndia Kuu Rd; h8am-8pm)

With lashings of sexy Mombasa style, this lounge cafe is the perfect spot to chill out in arty surrounds. Did we mention that it has great coffee? The Swahili pot, if you're after something different, turns the grind into a ritual. You won't want to leave.

CasablancaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mnazi Moja Rd; hnoon-late)

Of all the gin joints, in all the towns…walking into this one isn't the worst thing you could do. Classy but still cheeky, Casablanca is wildly popular. And yes, it's brimming with ladies of the night, but rumour has it that the late owner treated his resident girls so well, 300 of them turned up at his funeral.

New Florida NightclubCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mama Ngina Dr; entry after 7.30pm KSh500; h6pm-6am)

We know why this place was named after the Disney state. Like a theme park for grown-ups, there's all sorts to get into here: an outdoor pool, a 'crazy' blue bar, fluorescent palm trees and Vegas-style floor shows.

7Shopping

Biashara St, west of its Digo Rd intersection (just north of the spice market), is Kenya’s main centre for kikoi (brightly coloured woven sarongs for men) and kangas (printed wraps worn by women). Kangas come as a pair, one for the top half of the body and one for the bottom, and are marked with Swahili proverbs. You may need to bargain, but what you get is generally what you pay for; bank on about KSh500 for a pair of cheap kangas or a kikoi. Kofia, the handmade caps worn by Muslim men, are also crafted here; a really excellent one can run up to KSh2500.

Akamba Handicraft Industry Cooperative SocietyHANDICRAFTS

(www.akambahandicraftcoop.com; Port Reitz Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sun)S

This cooperative employs an incredible 10,000 people from the local area. It’s also a non-profit organisation and produces fine woodcarvings. Kwa Hola/Magongo matatus run right past the gates from the Kobil petrol station on Jomo Kenyatta Ave. Many coach tours from Mombasa also stop here.

8Information

INSECURITY IN MOMBASA

Although most of the sporadic attacks linked to the al-Qaeda affiliate al-Shabaab affected sections of Nairobi – the biggest being the one at Westgate Mall in September 2013 – Mombasa and the south coast has borne the brunt when it comes to a drop in tourism arrivals. Following two small-scale bomb blasts that killed four people at a bus station and a hotel in May 2014, several countries including the UK, USA and Australia issued warnings against travelling to Mombasa island and sections of the coast between Mtwapa Creek in the north to Tiwi in the south. Although this area did not include popular Diani Beach or Moi International Airport, British tour operators Thomson and First Choice pulled all guests out of the area as a precaution.

Although tourists are not typically targeted during periods of insecurity along the coast, robberies and violent attacks are more common during such periods, fuelled by anger, fear and the impact on unemployment levels. In the month following the bombings two foreign female tourists and a Ugandan guide were shot dead in separate incidents in the vicinity of Fort Jesus.

Emergency

AAR Health ServicesMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0731191067; www.aarhealth.com; Pereira Bldg, Machakos St, off Moi Ave; h24hr)

Medical clinic.

Medical Services

Aga Khan HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-222771; www.agakhanhospitals.org; Vanga Rd)

Mombasa HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-2312191; www.mombasahospital.com; off Mama Ngina Dr)

Tourist Information

Mombasa & Coast Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-2228722; Moi Ave; h8am-4.30pm)

Provides information and can organise accommodation, tours, guides and transport.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kenya AirwaysAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %Mombasa 041-2125251, booking 020-3274747; www.kenya-airways.com; Nyali City Mall)

Book online or in person at the ticket office in Nyali City Mall (next to Nakumatt). Nairobi–Mombasa return flights cost around KSh10,000.

Fly540AIRLINE

(%Mombasa 041-2319078, booking 0710540540; www.fly540.com; Moi International Airport)

Flies between Nairobi and Mombasa at least five times daily (one way from KSh4200), as well as between Mombasa and Zanzibar. Malindi and Lamu flights go through Nairobi.

Air KenyaAIRLINE

(%Nairobi 020-3916000; www.airkenya.com)

Charter company unrelated to Kenya Airways. Flies between Nairobi and Diani Beach most days; from US$118.

Bus & Matatu

Most bus offices are on either Jomo Kenyatta Ave or Abdel Nasser Rd. Services to Malindi and Lamu leave from Abdel Nasser Rd, while buses to destinations in Tanzania leave from the junction of Jomo Kenyatta Ave and Mwembe Tayari Rd.

For buses and matatus to the beaches and towns south of Mombasa, you first need to get off the island via the Likoni ferry. Frequent matatus run from Nyerere Ave to the transport stand by the ferry terminal.

Nairobi

Dozens of daily departures in both directions.

Daytime services take at least six hours, and overnight trips eight to 10 hours, including a meal/smoking break about halfway. Fares vary from KSh500 to KSh3000, with Modern Coast the swishest (and most expensive) of the lot.

Most buses to Nairobi travel via Voi (KSh300 to KSh500), which is also served by frequent matatus from the Kobil petrol station on Jomo Kenyatta Ave (KSh200).

MashBUS

(%041-3432471)

Simba CoachesBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Abdel Nasser Rd)

CoastBUS

(%041-3433166; www.coastbus.com)

Heading North

There are numerous daily buses and matatus up the coast to Malindi, leaving from in front of the Noor Mosque on Abdel Nasser Rd. Buses take up to three hours (around KSh500), matatus about two hours (KSh350 rising to KSh600 during holidays and very busy periods).

Tawakal, Simba, Mombasa Raha and TSS Express have buses to Lamu, most leaving at around 7am (arrive 30 minutes early) from their offices on Abdel Nasser Rd. Buses take around seven hours to reach the Lamu ferry at Mokoke (KSh600 to KSh800) and travel via Malindi.

Heading South

Regular buses and matatus leave from the Likoni ferry terminal and travel along the southern coast.

For Tanzania, Simba and a handful of other companies have daily departures to Dar es Salaam (KSh1200 to KSh1600, eight hours) via Tanga from their offices on Jomo Kenyatta Ave, near the junction with Mwembe Tayari Rd. Dubious-looking buses to Moshi and Arusha leave from in front of the Mwembe Tayari Health Centre in the morning or evening.

WORTH A TRIP

LUNATIC LINE: THE MOMBASA–NAIROBI RAILWAY

Few subjects divide our readers’ letters more fiercely than the train ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733681061, 0722106395, Nairobi 020-3596750; www.kenyatrainbooking.com; Mombasa Railway Station) from Nairobi to Mombasa. Once one of the most famous rail lines in Africa, the train is today, depending on whom you speak to, either a sociable way of avoiding the rutted highway and spotting wildlife from the clackety comfort of a sleeping car, or a ratty, tatty overrated waste of time. The truth lies somewhere in the middle. The train’s state could be described as ‘faded glory’, occasionally bumping up to ‘romantically dishevelled’, or slipping into ‘frustrating mediocrity’. The latter isn’t helped by spotty scheduling and lax timetable enforcement. At the time of research, it wasn't uncommon for the Mombasa-Nairobi leg to take up to three days longer than planned. Still, if you're up for an adventure…

Currently the ‘iron snake’ departs Mombasa train station at 7pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, arriving in theory in Nairobi the next day somewhere between 9.30am and 1pm. Fares are US$75 for 1st class (two-bed berths) and US$65 for 2nd class (four-bed berths) including bed and breakfast (you get dinner with 1st class) – reserve as far in advance as possible.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

There is currently no public transport to or from the airport. The taxi fare to central Mombasa is around KSh1200.

Boat

The two Likoni ferries connect Mombasa island with the southern mainland. There’s a crossing roughly every 20 minutes between 5am and 12.30am, less frequently outside these times. It’s free for pedestrians, KSh75 per small car and KSh165 for a safari jeep. To get to the jetty from the centre of town, take a Likoni matatu from Digo Rd.

Matatu, Taxi & Tuk-tuk

Matatus charge between KSh30 and KSh50 for short trips. Mombasa taxis are as expensive as those in Nairobi, and harder to find; a good place to look is in front of Express Travel on Nkrumah Rd. Assume it’ll cost KSh250 to KSh400 from the train station to the city centre. There are also plenty of three-wheeled tuk-tuks about, which run to about KSh50 to KSh200 for a bit of open-air transit.

Shimba Hills National Reserve

Cool and grassy, this 320-sq-km national reserve (%0704467855; www.kws.org; adult/child US$20/10; h6am-6pm) makes an easy day trip from Diani Beach. Its lush hills are home to sable antelope, elephants, warthog, baboons, buffaloes and masai giraffes, as well as 300 species of butterfly. The sable antelope have made a stunning recovery here after their numbers dropped to less than 120 in 1970.

In 2005, the elephant population reached an amazing 600 – far too many for this tiny space. Instead of culling the herds, Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) organised an unprecedented US$3.2 million translocation operation to reduce the pressure on the habitat, capturing no fewer than 400 elephants and moving them to Tsavo East National Park.

There are over 150km of 4WD tracks that criss-cross the reserve.

SHIMBA HILLS NATIONAL RESERVE

Why Go

It’s an easy day trip from the coast, has good elephant-spotting, and is the only Kenyan home of the sable antelope.

When to Go

Year-round, but the dry season from November to March is best.

Practicalities

Diani Beach, 45 minutes away, is a popular base; numerous safari companies and hotels there offer safaris to Shimba Hills.

Budget Tips

Some of the package deals offered by Diani Beach hotels (starting at US$50 per person) represent the best value for a trip to Shimba Hills. If you prefer to go your own way, matatus run from the Likoni ferry to the town of Kwale, 3km from the gate of the reserve. From there you can walk to the main gate or board a matatu (KSh70). You may be able to link up with other travellers at the gate, but be prepared to wait around.

4Sleeping

There are four public campsites (US$15 per person) within the reserve; included one located on the way to Sheldrick Falls. Most of the camps are large, with a capacity for around 50 tents, and all are basic with limited facilities. KWS also has two bandas available (US$25 per person), each fitted with twin beds.

Shimba LodgeLODGE

(%0722200952; www.aberdaresafarihotels.com; Kinango Rd; r from US$140)

Staying here is quite an experience, although not one as luxurious as the price might suggest. The rooms are simple but clean and come with character; the highlight is the wildlife seen from the canopy tree platform, which looks out over a forest clearing. The restaurant is open until midnight and serves simple, hearty meals.

8Getting There & Away

You’ll need a 4WD to enter the reserve. From Likoni, small lorry-buses to Kwale pass the main gate (KSh80).

DON'T MISS

MWALUGANJE ELEPHANT SANCTUARY

This sanctuary (%040-41121; www.kws.org; adult/child US$15/2, vehicles KSh150-500; h6am-6pm) is a good example of community-based conservation with local people acting as stakeholders in the project. It was opened in October 1995 to create a corridor along an elephant migration route between Shimba Hills and Mwaluganje Forest Reserve, and comprises 2400 hectares of rugged, beautiful country along the valley of the Cha Shimba River.

Other than the 150 or so elephants, the big-ticket wildlife can be a little limited. However, you’re likely to have the place to yourself, the scenery is almost a cliché of what East Africa should look like, and there’s plenty of little stuff to see. All this makes Mwaluganje more suitable for those who’ve done a few safaris elsewhere and are after a wilder, more pristine experience. The drier country means that the wildlife in Mwaluganje differs slightly from that of wetter and greener Shimba Hills. This is especially noticeable when it comes to the birds, with many species found here that aren’t to be seen anywhere else on the coast.

The main entrance to the sanctuary is about 13km northeast of Shimba Hills National Reserve, on the road to Kinango. A shorter route runs from Kwale to the Golini gate, passing the Mwaluganje ticket office. It’s only 5km but the track is 4WD only. The roads inside the park are pretty rough and a 4WD is the way to go.

Tiwi Beach

More sleepy, shaded and secluded than Diani Beach, Tiwi makes a lovely quiet, cottage-style escape by the ocean. The sand isn't that same peroxide shade, but the pretty beach is studded with skinny palms, and there are fewer hassles. Tiwi also has a beautiful coral reef, part of which teems with starfish of all shapes and colours. A stable, pool-like area between the shore and the coral is great for swimming.

Tiwi & Diani Beaches

1Top Sights

1Colobus Conservation CentreB4

1Sights

2Kongo MosqueB2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Chui Adventure CentreB3

Diani MarineB4

4H₂0 ExtremeB4

5Pilli PipaB1

4Sleeping

6FlamboyantB4

7Sand Island Beach CottagesB1

8Stilts Eco-LodgeB4

9Twiga LodgeB1

10Water LoversB2

5Eating

11Aniello'sB3

12Coast DishesB3

13RongaiA3

14SailsB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

Forty Thieves Beach BarB4

15ShakatakB4

Information

16Barclays BankB3

17Diani Beach HospitalB3

18Kenya Commercial BankA3

DON'T MISS

BEST BEACHES

Beaches, beaches everywhere, but which is the best? We think you’ll never want to stop building sandcastles on the following beaches:

Tiwi Beach Sunny, sandy and empty.

Diani Beach Despite the tourist resorts and the crowds, Diani Beach is stunning.

Takaungu The very definition of a perfect beach.

4Sleeping & Eating

Twiga LodgeHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0721577614; twigakenya@gmail.com; camping KSh500, s/d KSh1500/2500, new wing s/d KSh3000/4800)

Overlanders' favourite Twiga is great fun when there’s a crowd staying, with the palpable sense of isolation alleviated by the sheer tropical exuberance of the place. The older rooms are set off from the beach – opt for one of the nicer, newer rooms if you can. The on-site restaurant is OK, but having a drink under thatch while stars spill over the sea is as perfect as moments come.

oSand Island Beach CottagesCOTTAGES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722395005; www.sandislandbeach.com; cottages US$120-200)

A favourite among worn-out Nairobians, Sand Island occupies a peaceful, blissful spot swathed in green and gold. Accommodation is in homely cottages nestled on the edge of the sand; each has its own style. The newest, Pweza cottage, features furniture made from salvaged Swahili doors. The cottages are self-catering, but you can hire your own cook for KSh1000 per day.

8Getting There & Away

To get to Tiwi, turn left off the main highway (A14) about 18km south of Mombasa (or right if you're coming from Diani), and follow the track until it terminates in a north–south T-junction.

Buses and matatus on the Likoni–Ukunda road can drop you at the start of either track down to Tiwi (KSh50). Although it’s only 3.5km to the beach, both access roads are notorious for muggings so take a taxi or hang around for a lift.

Diani Beach

With a flawless stretch of white sand beach hugged by lush forest and kissed by surfable waves, it's no wonder Diani Beach is so popular. This resort town scores points with a diverse crowd: party people, families, honeymooners, backpackers and water sports enthusiasts.

But if that sounds like your typical resort town, think again. Diani has some of the best accommodation in Kenya, from budget tree houses to funky kitesurf lodges and intimate honeymoon spots. Most places are spread out along the beach road, hidden behind a swathe of forest.

When lazing in a hammock gets tiring, visit the coral mosques with archways that overlook the open ocean, venture into the sacred forests where guides hug trees that speak in their ancestors’ voices, or choose to take in the monkey sanctuary – all are good ways of experiencing more of the coast than the considerable charms of sun and sand.

1Sights

Colobus Conservation CentreWILDLIFE RESERVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0711479453; www.colobusconservation.org; Diani Beach Rd; tours adult/child KSh750/250; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Notice the monkeys clambering on rope ladders over the road? The ladders are the work of the Colobus Conservation Centre, which aims to protect the Angolan black-and-white colobus monkey, a once-common species now restricted to a few isolated pockets of forest south of Mombasa. It runs excellent tours of its headquarters, where you’ll likely get to see a few orphaned or injured colobus and other monkeys undergoing the process of rehabilitation to the wild.

Kongo MosqueMOSQUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

At the far northern end of the beach road (turn right at the three-way intersection where the sealed road ends) is the 16th-century Kongo Mosque – Diani’s last surviving relic of the ancient Swahili civilisations that once controlled the coast, and one of a tiny handful of coral mosques still in use in Kenya.

2Activities

oPilli PipaWATER SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722205120, 0724442555; www.pillipipa.com; Colliers Centre, Diani Beach Rd; from KSh7500)

The most reputable dive school in Diani, Pilli Pipa also offers dhow safaris, dolphin-spotting trips, whale watching, night dives and snorkelling trips to Wasini island.

Diani MarineDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0707629061; www.dianimarine.com; Diani Marine Village)

This highly regarded, German-run centre provides its own accommodation. Open-water diving courses cost €495, with single dives from €90.

Whaleshark AdventuresDIVING

(%0726775047; Diani Beach Rd; dive courses from €399)

The most budget friendly of all the dive outfits, this one specialises in viewing whale sharks housed inside its enormous seaquarium between Diani and Mombasa. The creatures are released every six months.

oH₂0 ExtremeKITESURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0721495876; www.h2o-extreme.com)

The best-regarded kitesurfing outfit in Diani offers half-day beginner courses for €100. It has locations at Sands at Nomad, Kenyaways Kite Village and Forty Thieves Beach Bar.

WORTH A TRIP

IT’S A SAILOR’S LIFE

The salty breeze and the high seas, it’s a sailor’s life for you and me. There’s no more romantic a way to explore the Kenyan coast than sailing by dhow (a traditional sailing boat that has been used here for centuries) past slivers of sand, offshore coral islands and reefs bubbling with colourful fish. Several companies offer dhow trips down the coast to Funzi and Wasini Islands. Pilli Pipa is probably the best known, but there are several other operators in Diani.

The East African Whale Shark Trust (%0720293156; www.giantsharks.org; Aqualand) is an excellent conservation body monitoring populations of the world's largest fish – the harmless, plankton-feeding whale shark. In February and March (the busiest time for whale sharks) it occasionally opens survey and shark-tagging expeditions to paying guests. Trip costs vary depending on how much sponsorship money has been raised but averages US$150 per person, with a minimum of six people needed for a trip. Its offices are located in the Aqualand centre, about 4km south of Diani.

4Sleeping

Note that many of these places close for renovation between May and June, and most increase rates during the Christmas holidays up to mid- January.

oSouth Coast BackpackersBACKPACKERS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0715614038; www.dianibackpackers.com; off Diani Beach Rd; camping KSh600, dm KSh1200, s/d KSh 2600/3600; pWs)

More stylish and security conscious than the average backpackers, South Coast has dorms and privates in a lovely house. Come to party at the 24-hour bar and pool, chill out in the lush garden, or catch up on sleep in the baobab dorm, where beds wrap around the trunk of a tree. There's a communal kitchen, great daily menu and lockers. Turn right after KFI supermarket.

Stilts Eco-LodgeLODGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722523278; www.stiltsdianibeach.com; Diani Beach Rd; s/d KSh 1800/2400; pW)

Tree-house heaven. Stilts has a handful of simple wooden tree houses, each in its own private cove in a swathe of coastal forest. A stilted lounge offers sofas, wi-fi, food and drinks, plus visits from the resident bush babies. Popular with backpackers and an eco-conscious crowd.

oKenyaways Kite VillageBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %calls 8am-4.30pm only 0728886821; www.thekenyaway.com; Diani Beach Rd; s/d US$64/151; Ws)S

This small, stylish kitesurfing lodge is our favourite place to stay in Diani. Rooms are simple but lovely, with driftwood bed frames, whitewashed walls and a sea breeze. Downstairs, there's an atmospheric bar/restaurant that attracts surfers, foodies and a chilled-out crowd. Throw in free wi-fi, cushion-strewn couches and lots of local info, and everyone's happy.

FlamboyantBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0720843585, 0733411110; www.flamboyant.co; Diani Beach Rd; r from US$85; aiWs)

This intimate boutique hotel has breathtaking beach views, subtly decorated rooms with some of the nicest bathrooms this side of the Indian Ocean and a fantastic pool complex.

oWater LoversHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0735790535; www.waterlovers.it; Diani Beach Rd; r €250-569; pWs)

Beautiful, peaceful and intimate, Water Lovers has eight rooms and one villa, all designed with aesthetics, sustainability and love in mind. The furniture is a mix of Swahili wood and Italian pottery, and the wonderful staff will cater for every need. As you might expect from Italian owners, there's a great private restaurant serving organic fare and homemade gelato.

5Eating

RongaiKENYAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Palm Ave, Ukunda; mains KSh200; hlunch & dinner)

This rowdy joint is a popular place for nyama choma – if you’ve been missing your roast meat and boiled maize, Rongai’s here for you.

Coast DishesKENYAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Palm Ave, Ukunda; mains KSh300; hlunch & dinner)

Want to give the overpriced tourist restaurants a miss? Want to eat where the locals eat? Coast Dishes ticks both of these boxes and, if you’re sensible, you’ll opt for a steaming great bowl of biryani, the house special.

oMadafoosKENYAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0714632801; www.thekenyaway.com; Diani Beach Rd)

Fresh and funky, Madafoos sits right on the beach, in the same grounds as Kenyaways. Lounge on the sofas and order a plate of feta-coriander samosas, a chocolatey dessert, or a bowl of steaming pumpkin soup to replenish after a day in the ocean. Don't miss the cocktails, or the chance to ask owner Bruce how he came up with the name.

oAniello’sITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733740408; Colliers Centre; mains KSh400-1000; hlunch & dinner; p)

Nurse a glass of red and peruse the long list of good pizzas and pastas at this thoroughly authentic Italian restaurant. As you eat, the ageing patron will do the rounds, as cries of 'buonissimo' erupt from nearby tables. It is indeed.

oSailsSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0717010670; www.villasdiani.com; Almanara Luxury Villas Resort, Diani Beach Rd; mains KSh850-3800; pWv)

By far the most stylish place to eat in Diani, Sails is gorgeous: a canopy of billowing white canvas separates the restaurant from the stars, while waiters serve up fine food, including fresh salads and seafood. After dark, fairy lights twinkle and the style set emerges. We've only ever heard good things.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Be aware that there are many prostitutes and gigolos in Diani’s bars.

Forty Thieves Beach BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0712294873; Diani Beach Rd; W)

Of all the phrases you’ll hear in Diani, ‘Meet you at Forty’s?’ is probably the most common, and the most welcome. A legendary boozer, it has movie nights, a pool table, live bands, there’s a pub quiz at least once a week and it’s open until the last guest leaves. It’s a popular place to eat as well, dishing out comfort food (meals KSh700 to KSh1500) such as burgers and scampi. The Sunday roast is a big hit.

ShakatakCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Diani Beach Rd)

The only full-on nightclub in Diani not attached to a hotel is Shakatak. It’s quite hilariously seedy, but can be fun once you know what to expect. Like most big Kenyan clubs, food is served at all hours.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Take taxis at night and try not to be on the beach by yourself after dark. Souvenir sellers are an everyday nuisance, sex tourism is pretty evident and beach boys are a hassle; you will hear a lot of, ‘Hey, one love one love’ Rasta-speak spouted by guys trying to sell you drugs or scam you into supporting fake charities for ‘local schools’. Yes, very ‘one love’.

Emergency

Diani Beach HospitalHOSPITAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %040-3300150, 0722569261; www.dianibeachhospital.com; Diani Beach Rd; h24hr)

8Getting There & Around

Bus & Matatu

Numerous matatus run south from the Likoni ferry in Mombasa directly to Ukunda (KSh100, 30 minutes), the junction for Diani, and onwards to Msambweni and Lunga Lunga. From the Diani junction in Ukunda, matatus run down to the beach all day for KSh50; check before boarding to see if it’s a Reef service (heading north along the strip, then south) or a Neptune one (south beach only).

Taxi

Taxis hang around Ukunda junction and all the main shopping centres; most hotels and restaurants will also have a couple waiting at night. Fares should be between KSh150 and KSh800, depending on the distance. From Diani to Mombasa via the Likoni ferry, bank on 1-2 hours driving time, depending on traffic.

DON'T MISS

ENTERING THE SACRED FOREST

The kaya (sacred forests) of the Mijikenda are typically closed to visitors, with just a handful of exceptions: Kaya Kinondo (www.kaya-kinondo-kenya.com; admission KSh1500), near Diani Beach, is among them.

Visiting this small but sacred grove includes elements of nature walk, historical journey and cultural experience.

Before entering the Kaya Kinondo you have to remove headwear, promise not to kiss anyone inside the grove, wrap a black kaniki (sarong) around your waist and go with a guide; ours was Binti, who explained the significance of some of the 187 plant species inside.

They include the 'pimple tree', a known cure for acne, a palm believed to be 1050 years old, snatches of coral and the rather self-explanatory 'viagra tree.' Enormous liana swings (go on, try it) and strangling fig trees abound.

The Mijikenda (Nine Homesteads) are actually nine subtribes united, to a degree, by culture, history and language. Yet each of the tribes – Chonyi, Digo, Duruma, Giriama, Jibana, Kambe, Kauma, Rabai and Ribe – remains distinct and speaks its own dialect of the Mijikenda language. Still, there is a binding similarity between the Nine Homesteads, and between the modern Mijikenda and their ancestors: their shared veneration of the kaya.

This historical connection becomes concrete when you enter the woods and realise – and there’s no other word that fits here – they simply feel old.

Many trees are 600 years old, which corresponds to the arrival of the first Mijikenda from Singwaya, their semi-legendary homeland in southern Somalia. Cutting vegetation within the kaya is strictly prohibited, to the degree that visitors may not even take a stray twig or leaf from the forest.

The preserved forests do not just facilitate dialogue with the ancestors; they provide a direct link to ecosystems that have been clear-felled out of existence elsewhere. A single kaya like Kinondo contains five possible endemic species within its 30 hectares. That’s five endemic species – ie trees that only grow here – and 140 tree species classified as ‘rare’ within the space of a suburban residential block.

The main purpose of the kaya was to house the villages of the Mijikenda, which were located in a large central clearing. Entering the centre of a kaya required ritual knowledge to proceed through concentric circles of sacredness surrounding the node of the village; sacred talismans and spells were supposed to cause hallucinations that disoriented enemies who attacked the forest.

The kaya were largely abandoned in the 1940s, and conservative strains of Islam and Christianity have denigrated their value to the Mijikenda, but World Heritage status and a resurgence of interest in the forests will hopefully preserve them for future visitors. The kaya have lasted 600 years; with luck, the wind will speak through their branches for much longer.

Shimoni & Wasini Island

The final pearls in the tropical beach necklace that stretches south of Mombasa are the mainland village of Shimoni and the idyllic island of Wasini, located about 76km south of Likoni.

Wasini in particular is ripe with the ingredients required for a perfect backpacker beach-side hideaway; it has that sit-under-a-mango-tree-and-do-nothing-all-day vibe, a coastline licked with pockets of white sand and the most gorgeous snorkelling reef on the coast. The island is a slowly decaying delight of coral houses and sticky alleyways. There are no roads or running water, and the only electricity comes from generators. Long ago Lamu and Zanzibar must have felt a little like this.

1Sights

Besides Wasini-based operators, Pilli Pipa and Chui Adventure Centre in Diani Beach also operate snorkelling and diving tours to Kisite Marine National Park.

Slave CavesHISTORIC SITE

(KSh400; h8.30-10.30am & 1.30-6pm)

These caves, where slaves were supposedly kept before being loaded onto boats, are the main attraction in Shimoni. A custodian takes you around the dank caverns to illustrate this little-discussed part of East African history. Actual evidence that slaves were kept here is a little thin, but as piles of empty votive rose water bottles indicate, the site definitely has significance for believing locals.

Kisite Marine National ParkPARK

(www.kws.org; adult/child US$20/10)

Off the south coast of Wasini, this gorgeous marine park, which also incorporates the Mpunguti Marine National Reserve and the two tiny Penguti islands, is one of the best in Kenya. The park covers 28 sq km of pristine coral reefs and offers colourful diving and snorkelling. You have a reasonable chance of seeing dolphins and sea turtles. You can organise your own boat trip – the going rate is between KSh2000 and KSh3000 per person for a group.

Mkwiro VillageVILLAGE

Mkwiro is a small village on the unvisited eastern end of Wasini Island. There are few facilities here and there’s not a lot to do, but the gorgeous hour-long walk from Wasini village, through woodlands, past tiny hamlets and along the edge of mangrove forests, is more than reason enough to visit. There are some wonderful, calm swimming spots around the village. Local children are sure to take you by the hand and show you the best swimming places.

2Activities

Shimoni ReefFISHING

(%725643733; www.shimonireeflodge.com; trips per day from US$600)

The Pemba Channel is famous for deep-sea fishing, and Shimoni Reef can arrange a variety of offshore fishing trips.

oCharlie Claw'sWATER SPORTS

(%0722205155/6; www.wasini.com)

This highly regarded outfit, based on Wasini, offers diving and snorkelling trips to Kisite, as well as to Mako Koko reef a few kilometres west. Dhow sunset cruises are also on offer. Some of the day excursions include lunch at its eponymous restaurant on Wasini island.

Paradise DiversWATER SPORTS

(%0718778372; www.paradisediver.net)

On the eastern side of Wasini, this dive outfit offers diving and snorkelling trips to the marine park, starting at €45 per day, as well as full PADI certification courses. It also has a small lodge at which you can stay.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mpunguti LodgeHOTEL

(%0722566623, 0710562494; r from KSh2500)

The rooms here, which overlook the delicious turquoise ocean, are uncomplicated, with mosquito nets and small verandahs. Running water is collected in barrels. The food is excellent (ask for the seagrass starter, possibly the nicest thing we ate on the Kenyan coast) and it’s a common lunch stop for boat trips. It’s on the edge of Wasini village.

oParadise LodgeLODGE

(%0718778372; www.paradisediver.net; per person €44-85)

This friendly little dive lodge on the eastern side of Wasini has a range of simple but colourful rooms, plus two furnished safari tents. Diving trips can also be arranged. You can sleep here independently, or as part of a diving tour.

Shimoni Reef LodgeLODGE

(%0725643733; www.shimonireeflodge.com; s/d US$180/300; s)

This waterfront fishing camp is a lovely place to while away a few days. It's also a good base for diving. The rooms, although spacious and colourful, aren't luxurious – they're best enjoyed after a day on the ocean wave.

8Getting There & Around

Although most people come to Wasini on organised tours, you can cross the ocean by motorboat (from KSh2000 per passenger) or by simple wooden vessel with the islanders (KSh300). Head to Shimoni pier to assess your options.

There are matatus every hour or so between Likoni and Shimoni (KSh300, 1½ hours) until about 6pm. Matatus heading to the Tanzanian border from Ukunda (for Diani Beach) can also drop you at Shimoni.

Lamu & the North Coast

Kilifi

The town formerly known as 'God's waiting room' is now a dazzling highlight of any trip to the Kenyan coast. A passionate group of Kenyans and expats have transformed Kilifi from a sweet but soporific backwater into a stunning place renowned for its eco-projects and clean, green, joyful living.

Gorgeous beach houses stand atop the creek, yachts dance in the bay and warm waves wash fantasy beaches buttered with lashings of soft white sand. You'll find orange groves and hermit crabs, fresh oysters and pizza ovens, permaculture projects and sailing schools, beach barbecues and night swimming. And you might even spot a whale shark migration from the windy brink of Vuma Cliffs.

1Sights

Kilifi CreekBEACH

This might be the only place where we wouldn't mind being up the creek without a paddle. It's just gorgeous, from the cliffs jutting up out of the water, to the hermit crabs scooting along the shoreline. Boat hire can easily be arranged, and there are lots of lovely spots for wild, romantic camping and impromptu campfires.

MnaraniRUINS

(adult/child KSh500/250; h7am-6pm)

The partly excavated, atmospheric and deliciously peaceful ruins of the Swahili city of Mnarani are high on a bluff just west of the old ferry landing stage on the southern bank of Kilifi Creek. The site was occupied from the end of the 14th century to around the first half of the 17th century, when it was abandoned following sieges by Galla tribespeople from Somalia and the failure of the water supply.

Buccaneer DivingDIVING

(%0716430725; www.buccaneerdiving.com)

The lovely Tim runs this excellent diving centre over at Mnarani Club, covering everything from the basics to instructor-level dives and wreck exploration. PADI open-water from US$550.

Three Degrees SouthSAILING

(%0714783915, 0714757763; www.3degreessouth.co.ke)

This British Royal Yachting Association–affiliated sailing school is one of the best places to learn on the East African coast. Expect expert tuition for beginners and advanced sailors, serious attention to safety and a vast expanse of (beautiful) empty space.

DON'T MISS

KILIFI'S BEST BEACHES

Kilifi Creek Beach is best reached by boat. If you're staying at Distant Relatives, trips leave regularly. Remote and magic, this is a lovely spot for a bit of wild camping.

Bofa Beach is all white sand, swaying palms and soft, pure water. The stuff that fantasies are made of.

Kitangani Beach was all but abandoned four years ago, when the owner of a landmark Italian restaurant went out for swim and never came back. Now its golden sands are popular for barbecues and as a training ground for a local acrobatic troupe. Beware of the tides.

4Sleeping & Eating

oDistant RelativesLODGE, BACKPACKERS

(%0787535145, 0770885164; www.kilifibackpackers.com; dm/r/bandas KSh1000/3000/4000, safari tents KSh1500; pWs)S

If you need a reason to come to Kilifi, this is it. Both an ecolodge and a backpackers, this place gets it so right. The fantastic owners, staff and guests have created a living, breathing space that's a haven for everyone. Expect good cheer, good people and good conscience. We love the pizza oven and the amazing bamboo showers.

oTakashackCOTTAGES

(bruceryrie@yahoo.com; Takaungu beach; p)S

On gorgeous Takaungu beach and off the electricity grid, this eclectic, relaxed house makes a great budget escape when split among friends. Catch the sunrise from the top floor, buy fresh fish every morning, jump in the ocean and, after dark, watch the house light up from the glow of amber hurricane lanterns. Email bookings only.

oThe BoatyardSEAFOOD

(%0721590502; mains from KSh600; h7am-7pm)

Jetties and boats, fresh crab and fries, old ropes and salty air…there's nothing better than a long, lazy meal at the Boatyard, especially when it involves fresh oysters (oyster night is Saturday). A boatman can pick you up from the other side of the creek for KSh300, or it's a 20-minute motorbike ride along tracks fringed by forest.

oDistant Relatives RestaurantINTERNATIONAL

(%0787535145, 0770885164; www.kilifibackpackers.com; mains KSh500-900)

Even if you're not staying here, join your distant relatives for dinner at this great, laid-back eatery atop Kilifi Creek. We rate the bacon-and-avo sandwiches, the beetroot-and-hummus veggie bowls and the steaks. Friday is pizza night (there's a pizza oven) and Tuesday is burger night. The breakfast smoothies are the best we tried on the coast.

8Getting There & Away

All buses and matatus travelling between Mombasa (matatu KSh100 to KHs130, bus KSh100, up to 1½ hours) and Malindi (matatu/bus KSh150/100, 1¼ hours) stop at Kilifi.

Watamu

Like Malindi to its north, Watamu is something of a Janus; it has two faces, both completely different. The prettiest looks out over the ocean and is plastered with soft white sand and blessed by a soft breeze. The other looks out onto the main road, and is strewn with litter, stones, stores and tourist haunts. Whichever you choose, Watamu does make a good base for explorations between Malindi and Kilifi.

1Sights & Activities

Watamu Marine National ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child US$15/10)

The southern part of Malindi Marine National Reserve, this park includes some magnificent coral reefs, abundant fish life and sea turtles. To get here to snorkel and dive, you’ll need a boat, which is easy enough to hire at the KWS office, where you pay the park fees, at the end of the coast road. Boat operators ask anywhere from KSh2500 to KSh4000 for two people for two hours; it’s all negotiable.

Bio-Ken Snake Farm & LaboratoryZOO

( GOOGLE MAP ; %042-2332303; www.bio-ken.com; adult/child KSh750/250; h10am-noon & 2-5pm)

Don't be fooled by the wooden turquoise cages; this humble-looking place is one of the world's most renowned snake research centres. It specialises in antivenin research, and also acts as an emergency service for snake-bite victims throughout the region. Passionate guides lead excellent 45-minute tours (included in the price); they're highly recommended if you're heading into the bush and want to identify the most deadly serpents. Pricey snake safaris can also be organised.

Watamu Turtle WatchWILDLIFE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.watamuturtles.com; h2.30-4pm Mon, 9.30am-noon & 2.30-4pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-noon Sat)S

All credit to the good guys: Watamu Turtle Watch provides a service protecting the marine turtles that come here to lay eggs on the beach. You can get up close and personal with various cutesy turtles at the trust’s rehabilitation centre.

4Sleeping

oMwamba Field Study CentreGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %042-2332023, Nairobi 020-2335865; www.arocha.org; Watamu Beach; r full board from US$25)S

This lovely guesthouse and eco-study centre has had a recent makeover. The rooms are bright and serene, with nice touches such as fresh flowers. Run by a Christian conservation society, there are plenty of opportunities to learn and volunteer. And it's only 50m from the beach; you'll hear the waves crashing as you drift off to sleep.

Turtle Bay Beach ClubRESORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %042-2332003, 042-2332226; www.turtlebaykenya.com; d from KSh18,000; ais)S

With a silver ecotourism rating, this is easily one of Watamu's best top-end resorts. The hotel uses managed tree cover to reduce its environmental imprint, runs enough ecotourism ventures to fill a book (including birdwatching safaris and turtle protection programmes) and contributes to local charities.

5Eating

Bistro Coffee ShopCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; cakes from KSh150; h8am-5pm)

Opening onto a little garden area (and also a car park), this pretty coffee shop has freshly baked cakes, gooey brownies, pastries and quiches, plus decent coffee.

oOcean Sports RestaurantINTERNATIONAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0734195227; Ocean Sports Hotel; mains from KSh750; pW)

This popular place is spread along a breeze-blown terrace and has some plusher seating inside. Expect sandwiches, burgers, great salads and finer dining such as seared tuna and other seafood creations. It's atmospheric at night, when the ocean rock formations glow under the moon. That's also when the music gets louder and the party starts.

8Getting There & Around

Watamu is about an hour's drive north of Kilifi and about 40 minutes' drive south of Malindi. Matatus run regularly between the three destinations. Heading north they depart from Watamu village; southbound vans leave from Gede ruins. Matatus to Malindi charge KSh100. Matatus to Kilifi charge KSh200.

DON'T MISS

MIDA CREEK

Mida Creek is a quiet and gentle place hugged by silver-tinged mudflats flowing with ghost crabs and long tides. It’s a place where the creeping marriage of land and water is epitomised by a mangrove forest and the salty, fresh scent of wind over an estuary. Mida Creek saves its real appeal for evening, when the stars simply rain down on you.

The Mida Creek Boardwalk ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child KSh250/150, guides KSh500) takes you into the heart of the mangroves, while the Mida Eco-Camp ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0729213042; www.midaecocamp.com; camping KSh500, huts per person KSh1400) is an excellent place to stay.

Any bus travelling between Mombasa and Malindi can drop you on the main road near Mida Creek from where it’s a pleasant, leafy 20-minute walk to the camp.

Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve

This 420 sq-km tract of natural forest – the largest indigenous coastal forest remaining in East Africa – is most famous as the home of the golden-rumped elephant shrew. Yes, you read that right; it's a guinea-pig sized rodent with a long furry trunk and a monogamous streak, and the Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child US$20/10; h6am-6pm) is its only natural habitat.

Besides this marvellous creature, the forest is home to about 240 bird species, including the Amani sunbird, the Clarke's weaver and the Sokoko scoops owl – the smallest owl in Africa. More than 33 species of snake slither through the undergrowth and shy waterbucks hide behind mahogany trees.

From the visitors centre, nature trails and 4WD paths cut through the forest. There are more bird trails at Whistling Duck Pools, Kararacha Pools and Spinetail Way, located 16km further south. It's possible to spend the night in the forest, setting up camp on a tall tree platform (USD$10) with a spectacular view of the species below.

The forest is just off the main Malindi–Mombasa road. The main gate to the forest and visitors centre is about 1.5km west of the turn-off to Gede and Watamu, while the Mida entrance is about 3km further south. All buses and matatus between Mombasa and Malindi can drop you at either entrance. From Watamu, matatus to Malindi can drop you at the main junction.

Arabuko Sokoke Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kws.org; Malindi Rd; h8am-4pm)

The Arabuko Sokoke Visitor Centre is small but helpful; it’s at Gede Forest Station, with displays on the various species found here. Three-hour guided tours leave from here (Ksh1500). Night walks can also be arranged in advance.

Gede Ruins

If you thought Kenya was all about nature, you’re missing an important component of her charm: lost cities. The remains of medieval Swahili towns dot the coast, with perhaps the most impressive of the bunch being the Gede Ruins ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child KSh500/250; h7am-6pm).

This series of coral palaces, mosques and townhouses lies quietly in the jungle’s green grip, but excavation has unearthed many structures. Within Gede archaeologists found evidence of the modern nature of Swahili society: silver necklaces with Maria Teresa coins (from Europe) and Arabic calligraphy (from the Middle East), vermicelli makers from Asia, Persian sabres, Arab coffeepots, Indian lamps, Egyptian or Syrian cobalt glass, Spanish scissors and Ming porcelain.

Gede, which reached its peak in the 15th century, was inexplicably abandoned in the 17th or 18th century. Some theories point to disease and famine; others blame guerrilla attacks by Somalian Gallas and cannibalistic Zimba from near Malawi, or punitive expeditions from Mombasa. Or Gede ran out of water – at some stage the water table here dropped rapidly and the 40m wells dried up.

8Getting There & Away

The ruins lie off the main highway on the access road to Watamu. The easiest way here is via any matatu plying the main highway between Mombasa and Malindi. Get off at the village of Gede and follow the well-signposted dirt road from there – it’s about a 10-minute walk. Gede is 16km southwest of Malindi or 105km northeast of Mombasa. Most people visit on a day trip from Malindi.

Malindi

With an Italian-sounding name, some of the best pizza in all of Africa and, well, plenty of Italian tourists, it would be easy to dismiss Malindi as just another European holiday resort. Until, that is, you wander through the alleys of the atmospheric old town, stop for fresh oysters beside the Indian Ocean and pause for Swahili cakes on Jamhuri Street. Malindi, it turns out, is quite the charmer.

Malindi

1Sights

1House of ColumnsC4

2Portuguese ChurchD5

3Vasco da Gama PillarD5

4Sleeping

4Dagama's InnD5

5Driftwood Beach ClubD7

6Scorpio VillasD6

5Eating

7Baby MarrowD5

8JahiziC4

9Karen Blixen Restaurant & Coffee ShopB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

Fermento Piano BarB3

Information

10Barclays BankB3

11Dollar Forex BureauB3

12Italian ConsulateB2

13Malindi Tourist OfficeB2

14North Coast Travel ServicesB3

15Standard Chartered BankB3

DON'T MISS

MARAFA

Away from the hedonistic delights of sun and sand one of the more intriguing sights along the north Kenyan coast is the Marafa Depression, also known as Hell’s Kitchen or Nyari (‘the place broken by itself’). It’s an eroded sandstone gorge where jungle, red rock and cliffs upheave themselves into a single stunning Marscape.

About 30km northeast of Malindi, the Depression is currently managed as a local tourism concern by Marafa village. It costs KSh600 (that goes into village programs) to walk around the lip of the gorge, and KSh400 for a guide who can walk you into the sandstone heart of the ridges and tell Hell’s Kitchen’s story. Which goes like so: a rich family was so careless with their wealth that they bathed themselves in the valuable milk of their cattle. God became angry with this excess and sunk the family homestead into the earth. The white and red walls of the Depression mark the milk and blood of the family painted over the gorge walls. The more mundane explanation? The Depression is a chunk of sandstone geologically distinct from the surrounding rock and more susceptible to wind and rain erosion.

Most people visit here on organised tours, with a self-drive car or by taxi (KSh7000). Alternatively, there are one or two morning matatus from Mombasa Rd in Malindi to Marafa village (KSh150, three hours) and from there it’s a 20-minute walk to Hell’s Kitchen. There are two very basic places to stay if needed.

1Sights & Activities

National Museums of Kenya has smartly grouped the major cultural sites of Malindi under the one general ticket of the Malindi Historic Circuit (adult/child KSh500/250; h8am-6pm).

House of ColumnsHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mama Ngina Rd)

The building itself is a good example of traditional Swahili architecture and contains great exhibits of all sorts of archaeological finds dug up around the coast.

Vasco da Gama PillarLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

More impressive for what it represents (the genesis of the Age of Exploration) than the edifice itself. Erected by da Gama as a navigational aid in 1498, the coral column is topped by a cross made of Lisbon stone, which almost certainly dates from the explorer’s time.

There are good views from here down the coast and out over the ocean. To get here, turn off Mama Ngina Rd, by Scorpio Villas.

Portuguese ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mama Ngina Rd)

This church gets its name because Vasco da Gama is reputed to have erected it, and two of his crew are supposedly buried here. It’s certainly true that St Francis Xavier visited on his way to India.

Malindi Marine National ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child US$20/15, boats KSh3000; h6am-6pm)

The oldest marine park in Kenya covers 213 sq km of powder-blue fish, organ-pipe coral, green sea-turtles and beds of Thalassia seagrass. If you’re extremely lucky, you may spot mako and whale sharks. Unfortunately, these reefs have suffered (and continue to suffer) extensive damage, evidenced by the piles of seashells on sale in Malindi. Note that monsoon-generated waves can reduce visibility from June to September.

4Sleeping

Note that most of the top-end places close or scale down operations between April and June or July.

Dagama’s InnINN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0701864446, 0722357591; Mama Ngina Rd; s/d without breakfast KSh1000/1200)

This friendly little place is a real seaside travellers' inn – that's to say that seamen prop up the bar with mermaid stories, and drunken sailors make eyes at the barmaid. The rooms are spacious but simple. If you can get hot water out of those rusty water-storage tanks, you’re a better person than us.

oScorpio VillasRESORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %042-2120194; www.scorpio-villas.com; Mnarani Rd; s/d KSh4600/7200; s)

Pretty and great value, Scorpio Villas is a winner. It's right by the ocean and within walking distance of some good restaurants. The 40-or-so rooms follow the hotel theme: gorgeous dark wood, white linen sofas and Swahili carvings. The bathrooms have huge monsoon showers. What's not to love?

oDriftwood Beach ClubRESORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %042-2120155, 042-2130845; www.driftwoodclub.com; Mama Ngina Rd; r from KSh14,000; as)

Somewhere between fancy pants and seaside chic, this place sees plenty of expat and Anglo-Kenyan traffic. The rooms are smart, but the hotel pulls off a relaxed vibe. The ambience is closer to palm-breezed serenity than the party atmosphere at similar hotels.

5Eating

With great seafood and strong Italian influences, there's a reason Malindi is known as Little Napoli. Street food heaven is Jamhuri Street, where stalls line both sides of the roadside selling deep-fried goodies, bhajis, dates and chapati.

oKaren Blixen Restaurant & Coffee ShopCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.karenblixen.net; Lamu Rd; meals KSh500-1500; pW)

Everyone in Kenya, it seems, wants to be Karen Blixen these days. This place isn't sure if it's a shabby-chic Karen Blixen or a blinging Karen Blixen, so it's gone for both looks, with scruffy leather seats and blinding gold lampshades. The pizza is as good as the coffee, and the place acts as Malindi's expat epicentre.

oJahiziSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0720747180, 0720178982; Mama Ngina Rd)

Another breeze-kissed Mama Ngina Rd hangout, this time with a hip slant on a fishing theme. Think big oysters, fish, juices, a long wine list and plenty of pizza. You could be in Sicily. Popular with everyone from waistcoated elderly gentlemen to stylish Malindians.

oBaby MarrowITALIAN, SEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733542584; Mama Ngina Rd; mains KSh500-2000)

Imagine an intimate honeymoon lodge restaurant, minus the lodge. That's what Baby Marrow is like. You can feast on smoked sailfish, pizza bianca, vodka sorbet or Sicilian ice cream (and plenty of other things) beneath the bamboo eaves. The jungle bar is a good spot for a digestif.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Fermento Piano BarLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %042-31780; Galana Centre, Lamu Rd; admission KSh200; hfrom 10pm Wed, Fri & Sat)

Fermento, for 'your endless night'…or so the slogan goes. The dance floor was apparently once frequented by Naomi Campbell. It’s young and trendy, so try to look so yourself.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Being on the beach alone at night is asking for trouble, as is walking along any quiet beach back roads at night. Also, avoid the far northern end of the beach or any deserted patches of sand, as muggings are common. There are lots of guys selling drugs, so remember: everything from marijuana on up is illegal. Sales of drugs often turn into stings. There’s also a lot of prostitution here.

Tourist Information

Malindi Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %042-20689; Malindi Complex, Lamu Rd, Malindi; h8am-12.30pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Travel Agencies

North Coast Travel ServicesTRAVEL AGENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %042-20370; Lamu Rd)

Agent for Fly540.

8Getting There & Away

Air

AirkenyaAIRLINE

(%042-30646; Malindi Airport)

Daily afternoon/evening flights to Nairobi (US$100, two hours).

Kenya AirwaysAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %042-20237; Lamu Rd)

Flies to Nairobi at least once a day (US$134).

Bus & Matatu

There are numerous daily buses and matatus to Mombasa (bus/matatu from KSh300/350, two hours). Bus company offices are found opposite the old market in the centre of Malindi.

All the main bus companies have daily departures to Nairobi at around 7am and/or 7pm (KSh500 to KSh3000, 10 to 12 hours), via Mombasa.

Matatus to Watamu (KSh100, one hour) leave from the not very new New Malindi Bus Station on the edge of town.

Usually at least six daily buses to Lamu (from KSh800, four to five hours). Most leave around 9am.

8Getting Around

You can rent bicycles from most hotels for around KSh500 per day. Cycling at night is not permitted. Tuk-tuks (minitaxis) are ubiquitous – a short hop through town should cost around KSh150 to KSh250. A taxi to the airport is at least KSh300 and a tuk-tuk is KSh150.