Survival Guide
8Directory A–Z
PRACTICALITIES
ANewspapers & Magazines The Daily Nation (www.nation.co.ke), the East African Standard (www.standardmedia.co.ke), the East African (www.theeastafrican.co.ke) and the New African (newafricanmagazine.com).
ATV KBC and NTV, formerly KTN, are the main national TV stations. CNN, Sky and BBC networks are also widely available on satellite or cable (DSTV).
ARadio KBC Radio broadcasts across the country on various FM frequencies. BBC World Service is easily accessible.
AWeights & Measures Metric
ASmoking Banned in restaurants, bars and public areas, with expensive fines for breaches.
Accommodation
Kenya has a wide range of accommodation options, from basic hotels with cells overlooking city bus stands to luxury tented camps hidden away in remote corners of the country. There are also all kinds of campsites, budget tented camps, bandas (thatched-roof wood or stone huts) and cottages scattered around the parks and rural areas.
High-season prices usually run from June to October, from January until early March, and include Easter and Christmas. Low season usually covers the rest of the year, although some lodges and top-end hotels also have intermediate shoulder seasons.
On the coast, peak times tend to be July to August and December to March, and a range of lower rates can apply for the rest of the year.
Many places, particularly in national parks or other remote areas, offer full-board-only rates – prices may, therefore, seem higher than you’d expect, but less so once you factor in three meals a day. Some also offer what are called 'package rates' which include full-board accommodation but also things such as game drives, transfers and other extras.
Kenya operates on a dual pricing system – nonresidents pay significantly more (often double or triple the price) than Kenyan (or other East African) residents. When things are quiet, you may be able to get the residents’ rate if you ask, but don’t count on it. Prices quoted in reviews are nonresident rates, unless otherwise stated. We also quote prices in the currency preferred by the place in question (usually US$ or KSh), but in most cases you can pay in dollars, shillings, euros and (sometimes) other foreign currencies.
PRICE RANGES
The order of accommodation listings is by budget and then author preference, and each place is accompanied by one of the following budget-category symbols (the price relates to a high-season double room with private bathroom and, unless stated otherwise, includes breakfast):
$ less than US$50
$$ US$50 to US$150
$$$ more than US$150
Bandas
These are Kenyan-style huts and cottages, usually with some kind of kitchen and bathroom, which offer excellent value. There are Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) bandas at some national parks. Facilities range from basic dorms and squat toilets to kitchens and hot water provided by wood-burning stoves. In such places, you’ll need to bring all your own food, drinking water, bedding and firewood.
Camping
There are many opportunities for camping in Kenya and, although gear can be hired in Nairobi and around Mt Kenya, it’s worth considering bringing a tent with you. There are KWS campsites in just about every national park or reserve. These are usually very basic, with a toilet block with a couple of pit toilets, a water tap, perhaps public showers and very little else. They cost US$30/25 per adult/child in Amboseli and Lake Nakuru National Parks, begin at US$20 in Masai Mara National Reserve and US$20/15 in all other parks.
As well as these permanent campsites, KWS also runs so-called ‘special’ campsites in most national parks. These sites move every year and have even fewer facilities than the standard camps, but cost more because of their wilder locations and set-up costs. They cost US$50/25 per adult/child in Amboseli and Lake Nakuru, US$35/20 elsewhere; a reservation fee of KSh7500 per week is payable on top of the relevant camping fee.
All camping prices in reviews are per person unless otherwise specified.
Hostels
The only youth hostel affiliated with Hostelling International (HI) is in Nairobi. It has good basic facilities and is a pleasant enough place to stay, but there are plenty of other cheaper choices that are just as good. Other places that call themselves ‘youth hostels’ are not members of HI, and standards are variable.
Hotels & Guest Houses
Real bottom-end hotels (often known as ‘board and lodgings’ to distinguish them from hotelis, which are often only restaurants) are widely used as brothels, and tend to be very rundown; security at these places is virtually nonexistent.
Proper hotels and guesthouses come in many different shapes and sizes. As well as the top-end Western companies, there are a number of small Kenyan chains offering reliable standards across a handful of properties, and also plenty of private family-run establishments.
Self-catering options are common on the coast, where they’re often the only midpriced alternative to the top-end resorts, but not so much in other parts of the country.
Terms you will come across in Kenya include ‘self-contained’, which just means a room with its own private bathroom, and ‘all-inclusive’, which generally means all meals, certain drinks and possibly some activities should be included. ' 'Full-board' accommodation includes three meals a day, while ‘half board’ generally means breakfast and dinner are included.
Safari Lodges
Hidden away inside or on the edges of national parks are some fantastic safari lodges. These are usually visited as part of organised safaris, and you’ll pay much more if you just turn up and ask for a room. Some of the older places trade heavily on their more glorious past, but the best places feature five-star rooms, soaring makuti-roofed bars (with a thatched roof of palm leaves) and restaurants overlooking waterholes full of wildlife. Rates tend to fall significantly in the low season.
Tented Camps
As well as lodges, many parks contain some fantastic luxury tented camps. These places tend to occupy wonderfully remote settings, usually by rivers or other natural locations, and feature large, comfortable, semipermanent safari tents with beds, furniture, bathrooms (usually with hot running water) and often some kind of external roof thatch to keep the rain out; you sleep surrounded by the sounds of the African bush. Most of the camps are very upmarket and the tents are pretty much hotel rooms under canvas.
Activities
Kenya has a long list of activities that are at once terrific ways to explore Kenya’s varied terrain and fabulous experiences in their own right. These include:
ABallooning Usually includes a 1½-hour flight, champagne breakfast and wildlife drive for around US$500 per person. In the Masai Mara only.
ACycling & Mountain-Biking Bike Treks (
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%020-2141757; www.angelfire.com/sk/biketreks; Kabete Gardens, Westlands, Nairobi; midrange) and Rift Valley Adventures offer specialised cycling trips. Many places to stay (particularly campgrounds) can arrange bicycle hire for KSh600 to KSh1000 per day. Good places to go cycling include Masai Mara National Reserve, Ol Pejeta Conservancy and Hell's Gate National Park, although you can only do the first two as part of an organised group.
ADiving & Snorkelling If you aren’t certified to dive, almost every hotel and resort on the coast can arrange an open-water diving course. They’re not much cheaper (if at all) than anywhere else in the world – a five-day PADI certification course starts at around US$470. Trips for certified divers including two dives go for around US$100. October to March is the best time, but during June, July and August it’s often impossible to dive due to the poor visibility caused by heavy silt flow from some rivers. That said, some divers have taken the plunge in July and found visibility to be a very respectable 7m to 10m, although 4m is more common.
ATrekking & Climbing Kenya has some of the best trekking trails in East Africa, ranging from strenuous mountain ascents to rolling hill country and forests. It is, of course, always worth checking out the prevalence of any wild animals you might encounter along the trail. In some instances, it may be advisable to take a local guide, either from the Kenyan Wildlife Service (KWS), if they operate in the area, or a local village guide.
AWater Sports Conditions on Kenya’s coast are ideal for windsurfing – the country’s offshore reefs protect the waters, and the winds are usually reasonably strong and constant. Most resort hotels south and north of Mombasa have sailboards for hire. Diani Beach in particular is good for water sports.
AWhite-Water Rafting The most exciting times for white-water rafting trips are late October to mid-January and early April to late July, when water levels are highest. The Athi/Galana River in particular has substantial rapids, chutes and waterfalls. The people to talk to are Savage Wilderness Safaris (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-7121590; www.savagewilderness.org; Sarit Centre, Westlands, Nairobi; midrange to top end).
KENYA’S BEST TREKKING
MOUNTAIN TREKKING
Mt Kenya (5199m)
Mt Elgon National Park (4187m)
Mt Longonot (2776m)
Cherangani Hills
Loita Hills
Aberdare
Ndoto Mountains
FOREST TREKKING
* Kakamega Forest
Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve
Customs Regulations
There are strict laws about taking wildlife products out of Kenya. The export of products made from elephant, rhino and sea turtle are prohibited. The collection of coral is also not allowed. Ostrich eggs will be confiscated unless you can prove you bought them from a certified ostrich farm. Always check to see what permits are required, especially for the export of any plants, insects and shells.
You are allowed to take up to KSh100,000 out of the country.
Allowable quantities which you can bring into Kenya include the following:
ACigars 50
ACigarettes 200
AAlcohol 1L
APerfume 250ml
Embassies & Consulates
Australian High CommissionEMBASSY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-4277100; www.kenya.embassy.gov.au; ICIPE House, Riverside Dr, Nairobi)
Canadian High CommissionEMBASSY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-3663000; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/kenya/index.aspx; Limuru Rd, Gigiri, Nairobi)
French EmbassyEMBASSY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-2778000; www.ambafrance-ke.org; 15th fl, Barclays Plaza, Loita St, Nairobi)
South Sudan EmbassyEMBASSY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-2711384; 6th fl Bishops Gate House, 5th Ngong Ave, Nairobi)
Tanzanian EmbassyEMBASSY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-331057, 020-2311948; Reinsurance Plaza, Aga Khan Walk, Nairobi)
UK High CommissionEMBASSY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-2873000; www.gov.uk/government/world/kenya; Upper Hill Rd, Nairobi)
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Negativity towards homosexuality is widespread in Kenya and recent events ensure that it’s a brave gay or lesbian Kenyan who comes out of the closet.
In a 2007 poll, 96% of Kenyans surveyed stated that homosexuality should be rejected by society. Then, in early 2010, mob violence rocked a health centre where suspected homosexuals were targeted. In November 2010, Prime Minister Raila Odinga described homosexuality as ‘unnatural’ and called for gays and lesbians to be arrested, and when British PM David Cameron threatened in November 2011 to withdraw aid to some African countries if they did not improve their record on gay and lesbian rights, there was a vociferous public outcry in Kenya. In July 2014, 60 people were arrested for 'suspected homosexuality' in a Nairobi nightclub.
Underlying all of this is a penal code that states that homosexual (and attempted homosexual) behaviour is punishable by up to 14 years in prison.
Of course, people do live homosexual lifestyles covertly, particularly along the coast. There are very few prosecutions under the law, but it’s certainly better to be extremely discreet – some local con artists do a good line in blackmail, picking up foreigners then threatening to expose them to the police.
Useful Resources
David ToursGAY & LESBIAN
Can arrange anything from balloon safaris to luxurious coastal hideaways, all with a gay focus.
Purple RoofsGAY & LESBIAN
(www.purpleroofs.com/africa/kenya)
Lists a number of gay or gay-friendly tour companies in Kenya that may be able to help you plan your trip.
Internet Access
AInternet cafes Common in large and medium-sized Kenyan towns; connection speeds fluctuate wildly and prices range from KSh30 to KSh100 per hour.
APost offices Internet at almost every main post office in the country; prepaid cards with PIN are valid at any branch around Kenya.
AWireless Increasingly common in midrange and top-end hotels; often (but not always) available in upmarket safari lodges, less common in midrange places in remote areas.
ALocal networks Both Safari.com and Airtel have dongles/modems that you plug into your laptop, giving you wireless access anywhere that there’s mobile coverage.
Language Courses
Taking a Swahili-language course (or any course) entitles you to a ‘Pupil’s Pass’, which is an immigration permit allowing continuous stays of up to 12 months. You may have to battle with bureaucracy and the process may take months, but it can be worth it, especially as you will then have resident status in Kenya during your stay.
ACK Language & Orientation SchoolLANGUAGE COURSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-2721893; www.ackenya.org/institutions/language_school; Bishops Rd, Upper Hill, Nairobi)
The Anglican Church runs full-time Swahili courses of varying levels lasting 14 weeks and taking up to five hours a day. Private tuition is available on a flexible part-time schedule.
Language Center LtdLANGUAGE COURSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0721495774, 020-3870610; www.language-cntr.com/welcome.shtml; Ndemi Close, off Ngong Rd, Nairobi)
A good Swahili centre offering a variety of study options ranging from private hourly lessons to daily group courses.
Legal Matters
All drugs except miraa (a leafy shoot chewed as a stimulant) are illegal in Kenya. Marijuana (commonly called bhang) is widely available but illegal; possession carries a penalty of up to 10 years in prison. Dealers are common on the beaches north and south of Mombasa and frequently set up travellers for sting operations for real or phoney cops to extort money.
African prisons are unbelievably harsh places – don’t take the risk. Note that miraa is illegal in Tanzania, so if you do develop a taste for the stuff in Kenya you should leave it behind when heading south.
Maps
The Tourist Map of Kenya gives good detail, as does the Kenya Route Map; both cost around KSh250. Otherwise, Marco Polo’s 1:1,000,000 Shell Euro Karte Kenya, Geocenter’s Kenya (1:1,000,000) and IGN’s Carte Touristique: Kenya (1:1,000,000) are useful overview maps that are widely available in Europe.
Most maps to Kenya’s national parks might look a bit flimsy on detail (you won’t get much in the way of topographical detail), but they include the numbered junctions in the national parks.
Macmillan publishes a series of maps to the wildlife parks that are not bad value at around KSh250 each (three are available in Europe: Amboseli, Masai Mara and Tsavo East & West). Tourist Maps also publishes a national park series for roughly the same price. The maps by the KWS are similar.
Money
The unit of currency is the Kenyan shilling (KSh), which is made up of 100 cents. Notes in circulation are KSh1000, 500, 200, 100, 50 and 20, and there are also coins of KSh40, 20, 10, five and one in circulation.
The most convenient way to bring your money is in a mixture of cash and a debit or credit card.
WHICH CURRENCY?
Note that Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) now accepts euros and UK pounds, but you’re still better off paying in Kenyan shillings or US dollars as KWS exchange rates are punitive.
ATMs
Virtually all banks in Kenya now have ATMs at most branches, but their usefulness to travellers varies widely. Barclays Bank has easily the most reliable machines for international withdrawals, with a large network of ATMs covering most major Kenyan towns. They support MasterCard, Visa, Plus and Cirrus international networks.
Standard Chartered and Kenya Commercial Bank ATMs also accept Visa but not the other major providers, and are more likely to decline transactions. Whichever bank you use, the international data link still goes down occasionally, so don’t rely on being able to withdraw money whenever you need it.
Cash
While most major currencies are accepted in Nairobi and Mombasa, once away from these two centres you’ll run into problems with currencies other than US dollars, pounds sterling and euros.
Credit Cards
Credit cards are becoming increasingly popular, although the connections fail with tedious regularity. Visa and MasterCard are now widely accepted in midrange and top-end hotels, top-end restaurants and some shops.
Moneychangers
The best places to change money are foreign exchange or ‘forex’ bureaus, which can be found everywhere and usually don’t charge commission. The rates for the main bureaus in Nairobi are published in the Daily Nation newspaper.
International Transfers
Postbank, a branch of the Kenyan Post Office, is the regional agent for Western Union, the global money-transfer company. Using its service is an easy way (if the phones are working) of receiving money in Kenya. Handily, the sender pays all the charges and there’s a Postbank in most towns, often in the post office or close by.
Kenyans swear by M-Pesa, a quick-and-easy way of transferring money via mobile networks.
Tipping
Tipping is not common practice among Kenyans, but there’s no harm in rounding up the bill by a few shillings if you’re pleased with the service.
AHotel porters Tips expected in up-market hotels.
ARestaurants A service charge of 10% is often added to the bill along with the 16% VAT and 2% catering levy.
ATaxi drivers As fares are negotiated in advance, no need to tip unless they provide you with exceptional service.
ATour guides, safari drivers and cooks Will expect some kind of gratuity at the end of your tour or trip.
US DOLLAR TRICKS
AWhen getting US currency to take to Kenya, make sure you get US$100 bills manufactured in 2006 or later. Most banks and just about all businesses simply won't accept those that were printed earlier.
AIf changing money at a forex bureau or other moneychanger, watch out for differing small-bill (US$10) and large-bill (US$100) rates; the larger bills usually get the better exchange rates.
Opening Hours
ABanks 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11am Sat
APost Offices 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat
ARestaurants 11am-2pm & 5-9pm, some remain open between lunch and dinner
AShops 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9-11am Sat
ASupermarkets 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat
Post
The Kenyan postal system is run by the government Posta (www.posta.co.ke). Letters sent from Kenya rarely go astray but can take up to two weeks to reach Australia or the USA. If sent by surface mail, parcels take three to six months to reach Europe, while airmail parcels take around a week.
Most things arrive eventually, although there is still a problem with theft within the system. Curios, clothes and textiles will be OK, but if your parcel contains anything of obvious value, send it by courier. Posta has its own courier service, EMS, which is considerably cheaper than the big international courier companies. The best place to send parcels from is the main post office in Nairobi.
Public Holidays
In addition to the following, Muslim festivals are significant events along the coast.
A1 January New Year’s Day
AMarch/April Good Friday and Easter Monday
A1 May Labour Day
A1 June Madaraka Day
A10 October Moi Day
A20 October Kenyatta Day
A12 December Independence Day
A25 December Christmas Day
A26 December Boxing Day
Safe Travel
While Kenya is a comparatively safe African destination, there are still plenty of pitfalls for the unwary or inexperienced traveller, from everyday irritations to more serious threats.
Banditry
The ongoing conflict in Somalia has had an effect on the stability and safety of northern and northeastern Kenya. AK-47s have been flowing into the country for many years, and the newspapers are filled with stories of hold-ups, shoot-outs, cattle rustling and general lawlessness. Bandits and poachers infiltrating from Somalia have made the northeast of the country particularly dangerous.
In the northwest, the main problem is armed tribal wars and cattle rustling across the South Sudanese border. There are Kenyan shiftas (bandits) too, of course, but cross-border problems seem to account for most of the trouble in the north of the country.
Despite all the headlines, tourists are rarely targeted, as much of the violence and robberies take place far from the main tourist routes. Security has also improved considerably in previously high-risk areas such as the Isiolo–Marsabit and Marsabit–Moyale routes. However, you should check the situation locally before taking these roads, or travelling between Garsen and Garissa or Thika.
The areas along the South Sudanese and Ethiopian borders are risky, so please enquire about the latest security situations if you’re heading overland.
Crime
Even the staunchest Kenyan patriot will readily admit that one of the country’s biggest problems is crime. It ranges from petty snatch theft and mugging to violent armed robbery, carjacking and, of course, white-collar crime and corruption. As a visitor you needn’t feel paranoid, but you should always keep your wits about you, particularly at night.
Perhaps the best advice for when you’re walking around cities and towns is not to carry anything valuable with you – that includes jewellery, watches, cameras, bumbags, daypacks and money. Most hotels provide a safe or secure place for valuables, although you should also be cautious of the security at some budget places.
While pickpocketing and bag-snatching are the most common crimes, armed muggings do occur in Nairobi and on the coast. Always take taxis after dark. Conversely, snatch-and-run crimes happen more in crowds. If you suddenly feel there are too many people around you, or think you are being followed, dive straight into a shop and ask for help.
Luggage is an obvious signal to criminals that you’ve just arrived. When arriving anywhere by bus, it’s sensible to take a ‘ship-to-shore’ approach, getting a taxi directly from the bus station to your hotel. You’ll have plenty of time to explore once you’ve safely stowed your belongings. Also, don’t read a guidebook or look at maps on the street – it attracts unwanted attention.
In the event of a crime, you should report it to the police, but this can be a real procedure. You’ll need to get a police report if you intend to make an insurance claim. In the event of a snatch theft, think twice before yelling ‘Thief!’ It’s not unknown for people to administer summary justice on the spot, often with fatal results for the criminal.
Although crime is a fact of life in Kenya, it needn’t spoil your trip. Above all, don’t make the mistake of distrusting every Kenyan just because of a few bad apples – the honest souls you meet will far outnumber any crooks who cross your path.
Scams
At some point in Kenya you’ll almost certainly come across people who play on the emotions and gullibility of foreigners. Nairobi is a particular hot spot, with ‘friendly’ approaches a daily, if not hourly, occurrence. People with tales about being refugees or having sick relatives can sound very convincing, but they all end up asking for cash. It’s OK to talk to these people if they’re not actively hassling you, but you should ignore any requests for money.
Be sceptical of strangers who claim to recognise you in the street, especially if they’re vague about exactly where they know you from – it’s unlikely that any ordinary person is going to be this excited by seeing you twice. Anyone who makes a big show of inviting you into the hospitality of their home also probably has ulterior motives. The usual trick is to bestow some kind of gift upon the delighted traveller, who is then emotionally blackmailed into reciprocating.
Tourists with cars also face potential rip-offs. Don’t trust people who gesticulate wildly to indicate that your front wheels are wobbling; if you stop, you’ll probably be relieved of your valuables. Another trick is to splash oil on your wheels, then tell you the wheel bearings, differential or something else has failed, and direct you to a nearby garage where their friends will ‘fix’ the problem – for a substantial fee, of course.
Terrorism
Terrorism is, unfortunately, something you have to consider when visiting Kenya, although the vast majority of the country is safe to visit. Remember that reports of an attack in, for example, Mombasa is likely to have very little impact upon the safety of visiting the Masai Mara or even Tsavo East National Park.
In September 2013 terrorists attacked the upscale Westgate Shopping Mall in Nairobi. In early 2014, a number of British tour operators withdrew all of their clients from and suspended tours to most coastal areas of Kenya. Other attacks have taken place – on commuter transport and markets in the Eastleigh suburb of Nairobi, and a series of attacks around Mpeketoni close to Lamu in mid-2014, for example – although these have primarily targeted locals rather than foreign tourists.
In recent years, there has been an upsurge in ethnic, political and religious tensions in Mombasa, and there have been a number of attacks on foreigners in and around Mombasa's old town, although at least one of these appeared to have been crime- rather than terrorism-related.
As of late 2014, most foreign government travel advisory services were warning against travel close to the Kenya-Somali border, as well as a number of areas along the coast, including lamu and Tana River counties, some areas of Mombasa, and Eastleigh subrub of Nairobi. Check their websites for the latest warnings.
Telephone
International call rates from Kenya are relatively expensive, though you can save serious cash by using VOIP programs like Skype. If you’re calling internationally using a local SIM card, rates are likely to be cheaper (as little as KSh3 per minute) than from fixed-line phones.
Calls made through a hotel operator from your room will cost an extra 25% to 50%, so check before making a call.
Mobile Phones
More than two-thirds of all calls in Kenya are now made on mobile phones, and coverage is good in all but the furthest rural areas. Kenya uses the GSM 900 system, which is compatible with Europe and Australia but not with the North American GSM 1900 system. If you have a GSM phone, check with your service provider about using it in Kenya, and beware of high roaming charges. Remember that you will generally be charged for receiving calls abroad as well as for making them.
Alternatively, if your phone isn’t locked into a network, you can pick up a prepaid starter pack from one of the Kenyan mobile-phone companies: Safaricom (www.safaricom.co.ke), Airtel (www.africa.airtel.com/kenya/) or Orange (orange.co.ke). A SIM card costs about KSh100, and you can then buy top-up scratchcards from shops and booths across the country. International calls can cost as little as KSh3 per minute.
You can easily buy a handset anywhere in Kenya, generally unlocked and with SIM card. Prices start at around KSh2500 for a very basic model.
Phone Codes
Kenya’s regions have area codes which must be dialled, followed by the local number.
The international dialling code for Kenya is 254.
Phonecards
With Telkom Kenya phonecards, any phone can be used for prepaid calls – you just have to dial the access number (0844) and enter in the number and passcode on the card. There are booths selling the cards all over the country. Cards come in denominations of KSh200, KSh500, KSh1000 and KSh2000, and call charges are slightly more expensive than for standard lines.
Time
Kenya time is GMT/UTC plus two hours. There is no daylight saving.
Tourist Information
ALocal Tourist Offices Incredibly, there is still no tourist office in Nairobi. There are a handful of information offices elsewhere in the country, ranging from helpful private concerns to underfunded government offices.
ATourist Offices Abroad The Ministry of Tourism (www.tourism.go.ke) maintains a number of overseas offices, including in the UK, USA, Canada and Italy. Most only provide information by telephone, post or email. Visit the ministry website; click on ‘Contact Us’ for contact details around the world.
Travellers with Disabilities
Travelling in Kenya is not easy for physically disabled people, but it’s not impossible. Very few tourism companies and facilities are geared up for travellers with disabilities, and those that are tend to be restricted to the expensive hotels and lodges. However, Kenyans are generally very accommodating and willing to offer whatever assistance they can. Visually or hearing-impaired travellers, though, will find it very hard to get by without an able-bodied companion.
In Nairobi, only the ex-London taxi cabs are spacious enough to accommodate a wheelchair, but many safari companies are accustomed to taking disabled people out on safari.
Many of the top-end beach resorts on the coast have facilities for the disabled, whether it’s a few token ramps or fully equipped rooms with handrails and bathtubs.
Out on safari, other places may have varying degrees of disabled access, but in Amboseli National Park, Ol Tukai Lodge has two disabled-friendly cottages.
Visas
Tourist visas can be obtained on arrival at international airports and at the country’s land borders with Uganda and Tanzania. This applies to Europeans, Australians, New Zealanders, Americans and Canadians, although citizens from a few smaller Commonwealth countries are exempt. Visas cost US$50/€40/UK£30 and are valid for three months from the date of entry. Tourist visas can be extended for a further three-month period.
Under the East African partnership system, visiting Tanzania or Uganda and returning to Kenya does not invalidate a single-entry Kenyan visa, so there’s no need to get a multiple-entry visa unless you plan to go further afield. Always check the latest entry requirements with embassies before travel. Applications for Kenyan visas are simple and straightforward in Tanzania and Uganda, and payment is accepted in local currency.
As of late 2014 Kenya is one of the countries covered by the new East Africa Tourist Visa, and for those also visiting Uganda and Rwanda on the same trip it is a cheaper alternative. The visa costs US$100, is valid for 90 days and is multiple entry – it is available upon arrival or from embassies abroad. If acquiring the visa before travel, your first port-of-call must be the country through which you applied for the visa.
Visas for Onward Travel
Since Nairobi is a common gateway city to East Africa and the city centre is easy to get around, many travellers spend some time here picking up visas for other countries that they intend to visit. But be warned: although officially issuing visas again, the Ethiopian embassy in Nairobi was not issuing tourist visas for a number of years and the situation could change again. Call the embassy to check.
Most embassies will want you to pay visa fees in US dollars, and most open for visa applications from 9am to noon, with visa pick-ups around 3pm or 4pm. Again, contact the embassy in question to check the times as these change regularly in Nairobi.
Volunteering
There are quite a large number of volunteers in Kenya, and volunteering can be a great way to reduce the ecological footprint of your trip. As a general rule, volunteering works best for both the traveller and the organisation in question if you treat it as a genuine commitment rather than simply a fun extension of your trip. It's also preferable if you have a particular skill to bring to the experience, especially one that cannot be satisfied by local people.
Action for Children in ConflictVOLUNTEERING
(AfCiC; %01235539319; www.actionchildren.org; 2nd fl, Imara Plaza, Thika)
A small, highly effective NGO working with Thika’s children in poverty. AfCiC recruits skilled volunteers via its website for long-term placements.
Arabuko Sokoke Schools & Ecotourism SchemeVOLUNTEERING
(ASSETS, A Rocha Kenya; %042-2332023, Nairobi 020-2335865; www.arocha.org/ke-en/work/communityconservation/assets)
Programs (including Mida Ecocamp) near the Arabuko Sokoke Forest and Mida Creek. Also operates the Mwamba Field Study Centre at Watamu Beach.
Kenya Youth Voluntary Development ProjectsVOLUNTEERING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0720453857; www.kvcdp.org; Nairobi International Youth Hostel, Ralph Bunche Rd, Nairobi)
Excellent local organisation that runs a variety of three- to four-week projects, including road building, health education and clinic construction.
Volunteer KenyaVOLUNTEERING
(Inter-Community Development Involvement; www.volunteerkenya.org)
Offers a number of longer community projects focusing on health issues such as AIDS awareness, agriculture and conservation in Western Kenya.
Watamu Turtle WatchVOLUNTEERING
(%0713759627; watamuturtles.com)
Helps protect the marine turtles that come to Watamu to lay eggs on the beach.
8Getting There & Away
Nairobi is a major African hub with numerous African and international airlines connecting Kenya to the world. By African standards, flights between Kenya and the rest of Africa or further afield are common and relatively cheap, and flying is by far the most convenient way to get to Kenya.
Kenya is also a popular and relatively easy waystation for those travelling overland between Southern Africa and Egypt. Finding your way here can be tricky – with several war zones in the vicinity – and such journeys should only be considered after serious planning and preparation. But they’re certainly possible, and it’s rarely Kenya that causes problems.
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
Entering the Country
Entering Kenya is generally pleasingly straightforward, particularly at the international airports. Visas are available on arrival at Mombasa and Nairobi international airports and Kenya’s land borders with Uganda and Tanzania.
Air
Airports
Kenya has three international airports; check out the website www.kenyaairports.co.ke for further information:
Jomo Kenyatta International AirportAIRPORT
(NBO;
GOOGLE MAP
; %0722205061, Nairobi 020-822111; www.kaa.go.ke)
Most international flights to and from Nairobi arrive at this airport, 15km southeast of the city. There are two international terminals and a smaller domestic terminal; you can walk easily between the terminals.
Moi International AirportAIRPORT
(MBA; %020-3577058, 041-3433211)
In Mombasa, 9km west of the centre, and Kenya’s second-busiest international airport. Apart from flights to Zanzibar, this is mainly used by charter airlines and domestic flights.
Wilson AirportAIRPORT
(WIL;
GOOGLE MAP
; %0724255343, 0724256837; www.kaa.go.ke)
Located 6km south of Nairobi’s city centre on Langata Rd; with some flights between Nairobi and Kilimanjaro International Airport or Mwanza in Tanzania, as well as scheduled and charter domestic flights.
Airlines
The following airlines fly to/from Kenya. Kenya Airways is the main national carrier, and has a generally good safety record, with just one fatal incident since 1977.
Land
Ethiopia
With ongoing problems in Sudan and Somalia, Ethiopia offers the only viable overland route into Kenya from the north. The security situation around the main entry point at Moyale is changeable – the border is usually open, but security problems often force its closure. Some foreign governments were at the time of writing warning against travel to areas of Kenya bordering Ethiopia and even along the highway between Isiolo and Moyale, although we've travelled much of this route without problems. Even so, cattle- and goat-rustling are rife, triggering frequent cross-border tribal wars, so check the security situation carefully before attempting this crossing.
Although Ethiopian visas were being issued at the Ethiopian embassy in Nairobi at the time of research, that hasn't always been the case in recent years so check with your nearest Ethiopian embassy before setting out.
APublic Transport There were no cross-border bus services at the time of writing. If you don’t have your own transport from Moyale, there's a daily bus between Moyale and Marsabit (Ksh800), while lifts can be arranged with the trucks (KSh500).
From immigration on the Ethiopian side of town it’s a 2km walk to the Ethiopian and Kenyan customs posts. A yellow-fever vaccination is required to cross either border at Moyale. Unless you fancy being vaccinated at the border, get your jabs in advance and keep the certificate with your passport. A cholera vaccination may also be required.
ACar & Motorcyle Those coming to Kenya with their own vehicle could also enter at Fort Banya, on the northeastern tip of Lake Turkana, but it’s a risky route with few fuel stops. There’s no border post; you must already possess a Kenyan visa and get it stamped on arrival in Nairobi. Immigration are quite used to this, but not having an Ethiopian exit stamp can be a problem if you want to re-enter Ethiopia.
Somalia
Don't even think about it.
South Sudan
Kenya's border with South Sudan is one of East Africa's more remote border crossings – check with the South Sudanese embassy in Nairobi to check whether it's open to foreign travellers. Most travellers travelling between the two countries fly from Nairobi to Juba.
There are no cross-border buses, although Simba Coaches has a bus from Eldoret to Juba (KSh4500, 24 hours) which travels via Kampala in Uganda.
Tanzania
The main land borders between Kenya and Tanzania are at Namanga, Oloitokitok, Taveta, Isebania and Lunga Lunga, and can be reached by public transport. There are no train services between the two countries.
Although all of the routes may be done in stages using a combination of buses and local matatus, there are six main routes to/from Tanzania:
Mombasa–Tanga/Dar es Salaam
Mombasa–Arusha/Moshi
Nairobi–Arusha/Moshi (via Namanga)
Nairobi-Moshi (via Oloitokitok)
Nairobi–Dar es Salaam
Nairobi–Mwanza
ABus companies include:
Uganda
The main border post for overland travellers is Malaba, with Busia an alternative if you’re travelling via Kisumu.
ABus & Matatu Numerous bus companies run between Nairobi, Nakuru or Kisumu and Kampala. From the Kenyan side, we recommend Easy Coach and Modern Coast Express. If travelling from Nairobi or Nakuru, prices include a meal at the halfway point. Various other companies have cheaper, basic services, which depart from the Accra Rd area in Nairobi.
There are also regular matatus to Malaba from Cross Rd in Nairobi. Buses and matatus also run from Nairobi or Kisumu to Busia, from where there are regular connections to Kampala and Jinja.
The Ugandan and Kenyan border posts at Malaba are about 1km apart, so you can walk or take a boda-boda (bicycle taxi). Once you get across the border, there are frequent matatus until the late afternoon to Kampala, Jinja and Tororo.
Sea & Lake
At the time of writing there were no international ferries operating on Lake Victoria, although there’s been talk for years of a cross-lake ferry service between Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. One company – Earthwise Ferries (www.earthwiseventures.com) – even has a website. If they actually end up with a boat, they could link Kisumu with Mwanza (Tanzania) and Kampala (Uganda).
8Getting Around
Air
Airlines in Kenya
Including the national carrier, Kenya Airways, a handful of domestic operators of varying sizes run scheduled flights within Kenya. Destinations served are predominantly around the coast and the popular national parks, where the highest density of tourist activity takes place. Most operate small planes and many of the 'airports', especially those in the parks, are dirt airstrips with very few if any facilities.
With all these airlines, be sure to book well in advance (this is essential during the tourist high season). You should also remember to reconfirm your return flights 72 hours before departure, especially those that connect with an international flight. Otherwise, you may find that your seat has been reallocated.
AirkenyaAIRLINE
(%Nairobi 020-3916000; www.airkenya.com)
Amboseli, Diani, Lamu, Masai Mara, Malindi, Meru, Nakuru, Mombasa, Nanyuki, Lewa and Samburu.
Jambo JetAIRLINE
(%020-3274545; www.jambojet.com)
Subsidiary of Kenya Airways that flies to Nairobi, Mombasa, Kisumu and Eldoret.
Kenya AirwaysAIRLINE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-3274747; www.kenya-airways.com)
Kisumu, Malindi and Mombasa.
Mombasa Air SafariAIRLINE
(%0734400400; www.mombasaairsafari.com)
Amboseli, Diani Beach, Kisumu, Lamu, Malindi, Masai Mara, Meru, Mombasa, Samburu and Tsavo West.
SafarilinkAIRLINE
(%020-6000777; www.flysafarilink.com)
Amboseli, Diani Beach, Kiwayu, Lamu, Lewa Downs, Loisaba, Masai Mara, Naivasha, Nanyuki, Samburu, Shaba and Tsavo West.
Boat
The only ferry transport on Lake Victoria at the time of writing is across the Winam Gulf between Mbita Point (near Homa Bay) and Luanda Kotieno where matatus go to Kisumu. You might also find motorised canoes to Mfangano Island from Mbita Point.
Dhows (traditional Swahili sailing boats) are commonly used to get around the islands in the Lamu archipelago and the mangrove islands south of Mombasa. For the most part, these trips operate more like dhow safaris than public transport. Although some trips are luxurious, the trips out of Lamu are more basic. When night comes you simply bed down wherever there is space. Seafood is freshly caught and cooked on board on charcoal burners, or else barbecued on the beach on surrounding islands.
Bus
Kenya has an extensive network of long- and short-haul bus routes, with particularly good coverage of the areas around Nairobi, the coast and the western regions. Services thin out the further away from the capital you get, particularly in the north, and there are still plenty of places where you’ll be reliant on matatus.
Buses are operated by a variety of private companies that offer varying levels of comfort, convenience and roadworthiness. They’re considerably cheaper than taking the train or flying, and as a rule services are frequent, fast and can be quite comfortable.
In general, if you travel during daylight hours, buses are a fairly safe way to get around – you’ll certainly be safer in a bus than in a matatu. The best coaches are saved for long-haul and international routes and offer DVD movies, drinks, toilets and reclining airline-style seats; some of the newer ones even have wireless internet. On shorter local routes, however, you may find yourself on something resembling a battered school bus.
Whatever kind of conveyance you find yourself in, don’t sit at the back (you’ll be thrown around like a rag doll on Kenyan roads), or right at the front (you’ll be the first to die in a head-on collision, plus you’ll be able to see the oncoming traffic, which is usually best left to the driver or those with nerves of steel).
BuswaysBUS
(%020-2227650)
Western Kenya and the coast.
Dream LineBUS
(%0731777799)
Nairobi, Mombasa and Malindi.
Reservations
Most bus companies have offices or ticket agents at important stops along their routes, where you can book a seat. For short trips between towns reservations aren’t generally necessary, but for popular longer routes, particularly the Nairobi–Kisumu, Nairobi–Mombasa and Mombasa–Lamu routes, buying your ticket at least a day in advance is highly recommended.
Car & Motorcycle
Automobile Associations
Automobile Association of KenyaINFORMATION
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-4449676; www.aakenya.co.ke; Sarit Centre, Westlands, Nairobi)
Kenya's local automobile association.
Bribes
Although things have improved markedly in recent years, police will still stop you and most likely ask you for a small ‘donation’. To prevent being taken advantage of, always ask for an official receipt – this goes a long way in stopping corruption. Also, always ask for their police number and check it against their ID card as there are plenty of con artists running about.
Driving Licence
An international driving licence is not necessary in Kenya, but can be useful. If you have a British photo card licence, be sure to bring the counterfoil, as the date you passed your driving test (something car-hire companies may want to know) isn’t printed on the card itself.
Fuel & Spare Parts
Fuel prices are generally lower outside the capital, but can creep up to frighteningly high prices in remote areas, where petrol stations are scarce, and you may end up buying dodgy supplies out of barrels from roadside vendors. Petrol, spare parts and repair shops are readily available at all border towns, though if you’re coming from Ethiopia you should plan your supplies carefully, as stops are few and far between on the rough northern roads.
Car Hire
Hiring a vehicle to tour Kenya (or at least the national parks) is an expensive way of seeing the country, but it does give you freedom of movement and is sometimes the only way of getting to more remote parts of the country. However, unless you’re sharing with a sufficient number of people, it’s likely to cost more than you’d pay for an organised camping safari with all meals.
Starting rates for hire almost always sound very reasonable, but once you factor in mileage and the various types of insurance, you’ll be lucky to pay less than US$50 per day for a saloon car, US$80 per day for a small 4WD or US$150 per day for a proper 4WD.
While hiring a ‘chauffeur’ may sound like a luxury, it can actually be a very good idea in Kenya for both financial and safety reasons. Most companies will provide a driver for anywhere between US$5 and US$40 per day – the big advantage of this is that the car is covered by the company’s insurance, so you don’t have to pay any of the various waivers and won’t be liable for any excess in the case of an accident (though tyres, windows etc remain your responsibility).
Hiring a vehicle with unlimited kilometres is the best way to go. Rates are usually quoted without insurance, with the option of paying a daily rate (usually around KSh1500 to KSh300) for insurance against collision damage and theft. It would be financial suicide to hire a car in Kenya without both kinds of insurance. Otherwise you’ll be responsible for the full value of the vehicle if it’s damaged or stolen.
Even if you have collision and theft insurance, you’ll still be liable for an excess of anywhere between KSh5000 to KSh150,000 (depending on the company) if something happens to the vehicle; always check this before signing. You can usually reduce the excess to zero by paying another KSh1500 to KSh2500 per day for an excess loss waiver. Note that tyres, damaged windscreens and loss of the tool kit are always the hirer’s responsibility.
As a final sting in the tail (unless you've been quoted an all-inclusive rate), you’ll be charged 16% value added tax (VAT) on top of the total cost of hiring the vehicle. And a final warning: always return the vehicle with a full tank of petrol; if you don’t, the company will charge you twice the going rate to fill up.
Unless you’re just planning on travelling on the main routes between towns, you’ll need a 4WD vehicle. Few of the car-hire companies will let you drive 2WD vehicles on dirt roads, including those in the national parks, and if you ignore this proscription and have an accident you’ll be personally liable for any damage to the vehicle.
A minimum age of between 23 and 25 years usually applies for hirers. Some require you to have been driving for at least two years. You will also need acceptable ID such as a passport.
And if you plan to take the car across international borders, check whether the company allows this – many don’t, and those that do charge for the privilege.
Car-hire companies include the following:
Adventure Upgrade SafarisCAR RENTAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0722529228; www.adventureupgradesafaris.co.ke; Tom Mboya St, Nairobi)
An excellent local company with a good range of vehicles and drivers.
AvisCAR RENTAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-2966500; www.avis.co.ke; College House, University Way, Nairobi)
Also in Mombasa.
BudgetCAR RENTAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-652144; www.budget.co.ke; College House, University Way, Nairobi)
Central Rent-a-CarCAR RENTAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-2222888; www.carhirekenya.com; ground fl, 680 Hotel, Kenyatta Ave, Nairobi)
A recommended local company.
Market Car HireCAR RENTAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0722515053; www.marketcarhire.com; ground fl, Chester House, Koinange St, Nairobi)
Local car-hire firm with a solid reputation.
Road Conditions
Road conditions vary widely in Kenya, from flat smooth highways to dirt tracks and steep rocky pathways. The roads in the north and east of the country are particularly poor. The main Mombasa–Nairobi–Malaba road (A104) is badly worn due to the constant flow of traffic, but has improved in recent years. The never-ending stream of trucks along this main route through the country will slow travel times considerably.
Roads in national parks are all made of murram (dirt) and many have eroded into bone-shaking corrugations through overuse by safari vehicles.
Road Hazards
The biggest hazard on Kenyan roads is simply the other vehicles on them, and driving defensively is essential. Ironically, the most dangerous roads in Kenya are probably the well-maintained ones, which allow drivers to go fast enough to do really serious damage in a crash. On the worse roads, potholes can be a problem.
On all roads, be very careful of pedestrians and cyclists – you don’t want to contribute any more to the death toll on Kenya’s roads. Animals are another major hazard in rural areas, be it monkeys, herds of goats and cattle or lone chickens with a death wish.
Certain routes have a reputation for banditry, particularly the Garsen–Garissa–Thika road, which is still essentially off limits to travellers. The roads from Isiolo to Marsabit and Moyale and from Malindi to Lamu have improved considerably security-wise in the last few years, but you’re still advised to seek local advice before using any of these routes.
Road Rules
Driving practices here are some of the worst in the world and all are carried out at breakneck speed. Never drive at night unless you absolutely have to. Drunk driving is also very common.
Kenyans drive on the left – at least in theory. Kenyans habitually drive on the wrong side of the road whenever they see a pothole, an animal or simply a break in the traffic – flashing your lights at the vehicle hurtling towards you should be enough to persuade the driver to get back into their own lane.
Indicators, lights, horns and hand signals can mean anything from ‘I’m about to overtake’ to ‘Hello mzungu (white person)!’ or ‘Let’s play chicken with that elephant’, and should never be taken at face value.
Hitching
Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any country, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who hitch should understand they are taking a small but potentially serious risk; it’s safer to travel in pairs and let someone know where you are planning to go. Also beware of drunken drivers.
The traditional thumb signal will probably be understood, but locals use a palm-downwards wave to get cars to stop. Many Kenyan drivers expect a contribution towards petrol or some kind of gift from foreign passengers, so make it clear from the outset if you are expecting a free ride.
If you’re hoping to hitch into the national parks, dream on! You’ll get further asking around for travel companions in Nairobi or any of the gateway towns.
Local Transport
Boda-boda
Boda-bodas (bicycle or motorcycle taxis) are common in areas where standard taxis are harder to find, and also operate in smaller towns and cities such as Nakuru or Kisumu. There’s a particular proliferation on the coast, where the bicycle boys also double as touts, guides and drug dealers in tourist areas. A short ride should cost around KSh80 or so.
Matatu
Local matatus are the main means of getting around for local people, and any reasonably sized city or town will have plenty of services covering every major road and suburb. Fares start at around KSh20 and may reach KSh100 for longer routes in Nairobi.
For inter-city transport, apart from in the remote northern areas where you’ll rely on occasional buses or paid lifts on trucks, you can almost always find a matatu going to the next town or further afield.
Matatus leave when full and the fares are fixed. It’s unlikely you will be charged more than other passengers.
Despite a briefly successful government drive to regulate the matatu industry, matatus are once again notorious for dangerous driving, overcrowding and general shady business. Under no circumstances should you sit in the ‘death seat’ next to the matatu driver. Play it safe and sit in the middle seats away from the window.
Shared Taxi (Peugeot)
Shared Peugeot taxis are a good alternative to matatus. The vehicles are usually Peugeot 505 station wagons that take seven to nine passengers and leave when full.
Peugeots take less time to reach their destinations than matatus as they fill quicker and go from point to point without stopping, and so are slightly more expensive.
Taxi
Even the smallest Kenyan towns generally have at least one banged-up old taxi for easy access to outlying areas or even remoter villages, and you’ll find cabs on virtually every corner in the larger cities, especially in Nairobi and Mombasa, where taking a taxi at night is virtually mandatory. Fares are invariably negotiable and start around KSh300 to KSh500 for short journeys.
Since few taxis in Kenya actually have functioning meters (or drivers who adhere to them), it’s advisable that you agree on the fare prior to setting out.
Tuk-Tuk
They’re an incongruous sight outside southeast Asia, but several Kenyan towns and cities have these distinctive motorised mini-taxis. The highest concentration is in Malindi, but they’re also in Nairobi, Mombasa, Nakuru, Machakos and Diani Beach; Watamu has a handful of less-sophisticated motorised rickshaws. Fares are negotiable, but should be at least KSh100 less than the equivalent taxi rate.
Train
The Uganda Railway was once the main trade artery in East Africa, but these days the network has dwindled to one functioning route between Nairobi and Mombasa.
Classes
There are three classes on Kenyan trains, but only 1st and 2nd class can be recommended.
First class consists of two-berth compartments with a washbasin, wardrobe, drinking water and a drinks service.
Second class consists of plainer, four-berth compartments with a washbasin and drinking water.
Third class is seats only.
No compartment can be locked from the outside, so remember not to leave any valuables lying around if you leave it for any reason. Always lock your compartment from the inside before you go to sleep.
Passengers in 1st class are treated to a meal typically consisting of stews, curries or roast chicken served with rice and vegetables. Tea and coffee is included; sodas (soft drinks), bottled water and alcoholic drinks are not. Cold beer is available at all times in the dining car and can be delivered to your compartment.
Reservations
There are booking offices at the train stations in Nairobi and Mombasa, and it’s recommended that you show up in person rather than trying to call. You must book in advance for 1st and 2nd class, otherwise there’ll probably be no berths available. Two to three days is usually sufficient, but remember that these services run just three times weekly in either direction. Note that compartment and berth numbers are posted up about 30 minutes prior to departure.