Kenya

Why Go?

When you think of Africa, you’re probably thinking of Kenya. It’s the lone acacia silhouetted against a horizon stretching into eternity, the lush, palm-fringed coastline of the Indian Ocean, the Great Rift Valley. Peopling that landscape, adding depth and resonance to Kenya’s age-old story, are some of Africa’s best-known peoples, among them the Maasai, the Samburu, the Turkana, Swahili, the Kikuyu. Drawing near to these cultures could just be a highlight of your visit.

Then, of course, there’s the wildlife. This is the land of the Masai Mara, of wildebeest and zebras migrating in their millions with the great predators of Africa following in their wake, of the red elephants of Tsavo, of the massed millions of pink flamingos stepping daintily through lake shallows. Africa is the last great wilderness where these creatures survive. And Kenya is the perfect place to answer Africa’s call of the wild.

When to Go

AJul–Oct The annual wildebeest migration arrives in the Masai Mara in all its epic glory.

AJan & Feb Hot, dry weather with high concentrations of wildlife in the major parks.

ANov–Mar Migratory birds present in their millions throughout the country.

Best of Nature

AMasai Mara National Reserve

AAmboseli National Park

ATsavo West National Park

AMt Kenya National Park

AKisite Marine National Park

Best of Culture

AMaasai Manyatta, Masai Mara National Reserve

ALewa Wildlife Conservancy

ALoyangalani

AIl Ngwesi

ANairobi nightlife

Kenya Highlights

1 Experience expansive savannah and endless wildlife in Masai Mara National Reserve

2 Draw near to elephants in the shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro for Kenya’s most famous picture-postcard views at Amboseli National Park

3 Trek to jagged peaks on the sacred mountain, Kenya’s tallest and Africa’s second-tallest, Mt Kenya

4 Cherish the rare chance to see the ‘Big Five’ in one day at Tsavo West National Park

5 Plunge yourself into the ultimate Swahili cultural-immersion experience at Lamu

6 Track lions and become part of Kenya's exciting conservation future at Ol Pejeta Conservancy

7 Explore lush rainforest, rare primates and fabulous birdwatching in Kakamega Forest

8 Discover the unforgettable tribes and the sublime Lake Turkana at Loyangalani

Nairobi

Pop 3.36 million / Elev 1661m

Telling people that you like Nairobi is like voicing a guilty secret. Yes, Nairobi’s reputation precedes it. And yes, it's a city where it pays to keep your wits about you. But there are many people who don't just like Nairobi but who actually wouldn't want to live anywhere else. For those who call it home, the city's muscular, cosmopolitan charms include a vibrant cultural life, fabulous places to eat and exciting nightlife. If you're just passing through, this melting pot of people and attractions includes the intriguing National Museum, an unlikely national park (black rhinos and all), an irresistible elephant orphanage, the ground zero for the Rothschild’s giraffe, Karen Blixen's former home and so much more. Welcome to one of Africa's most dynamic cities, a place you'll almost certainly pass through, and one that you could learn to like if you give it half a chance.

Nairobi

1Top Sights

1National MuseumD2

1Sights

2Railway MuseumF6

3Snake ParkD2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4ACK Language & Orientation SchoolC6

5Kenya Youth Voluntary Development ProjectsC6

6Pal-Davis AdventuresF2

4Sleeping

7Central YMCAD3

8Kahama HotelF3

9Nairobi Serena HotelD5

10Norfolk HotelE3

11Town LodgeC6

5Eating

12Nyama Choma StallsF6

Savanna: The Coffee LoungeD2

6Drinking & Nightlife

Lord Delamere Terrace & BarE3

Information

13Australian High CommissionB2

14Ethiopian EmbassyC5

15South Sudan EmbassyC6

16UK High CommissionE6

1Sights

City Centre

oNational MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8164134; www.museums.or.ke; Museum Hill Rd; adult/child KSh1200/600, combined ticket with Snake Park KSh1500/1000; h8.30am-5.30pm)

Kenya’s wonderful National Museum, housed in an imposing building amid lush, leafy grounds just outside the centre, has a good range of cultural and natural history exhibits. Aside from the exhibits, check out the life-sized fibreglass model of pachyderm celebrity, Ahmed, the massive elephant who became a symbol of Kenya at the height of the 1980s poaching crisis, and who was placed under 24-hour guard by Jomo Kenyatta; he’s in the inner courtyard next to the shop.

Snake ParkZOO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museums.or.ke; Museum Hill Rd; adult/child KSh1200/600, combined ticket with National Museum KSh1500/1000; h8.30am-5.30pm)

In the grounds of the National Museum, the zoo-like Snake Park has some impressive snake species, including the puff adder, black mamba, African rock python and the Gaboon viper (which rarely bares its 4cm-long fangs, the longest in the world). There are also local fish species, lizards, turtles and some sad-looking crocodiles.

Central Nairobi

1Sights

1Kenyatta Conference CentreE5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Eastern & Southern SafarisB3

3Origins SafarisD4

4Safari Icon TravelD3

5Safe Ride Tours & SafarisD3

6Sana Highlands Trekking ExpeditionsE3

4Sleeping

7Meridian Court HotelD2

8Sarova Stanley HotelD3

9Terminal HotelB2

5Eating

10Beneve Coffee HouseC4

11Pasara CaféD4

12Savanna: The Coffee LoungeB3

13Tamarind RestaurantF6

Thorn Tree CaféD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

14Florida 2000F5

15Nairobi Java HouseE4

16SimmersC4

7Shopping

17City MarketC3

18Maasai MarketE5

19Maasai MarketC1

Information

20Barclays BankE4

21Barclays BankE3

22Barclays BankB2

23French EmbassyB3

24Tanzanian EmbassyE5

Transport

25Adventure Upgrade SafarisE3

26Airport Bus Departure PointE4

27AvisA2

BudgetA2

28Bus & Matatu StopC1

29Bus & Matatu Stop (for Hurlingham & Milimani)B4

30Bus Stop (for Langata, Karen & Airport)F4

Bus Stop (for Westlands)C1

31Buses to Kisii & MigoriH3

32Central Rent-a-CarC4

33Dream LineG2

34Easy CoachG6

35Egypt AirE4

36EmiratesA2

37Ethiopian AirlinesC4

Kenya AirwaysB3

KLMB3

38Main Bus & Matatu AreaG2

39Market Car HireB3

Matatus to EldoretG6

40Matatus to Kericho & KisumuH3

Matatus to KiberaF4

41Matatus to Naivasha, Nakuru, Nyahururu & NamangaH3

42Matatus to Wilson Airport, Nairobi National Park, Langata & KarenG6

43Modern Coast ExpressG2

44Mololine Prestige ShuttleF2

45Railway Booking OfficeG7

46Riverside ShuttleC1

Kenyatta Conference CentreLOOKOUT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; viewing platform adult/child KSh500/250; hviewing platform 9am-6pm)

Towering over City Square on City Hall Way, Nairobi’s signature building was designed as a fusion of modern and traditional African styles, though the distinctive saucer tower looks a little dated next to some of the city’s newer and flashier glass edifices. Take the lift up to the viewing platform and helipad on the roof for wonderful views over Nairobi.

Railway MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Station Rd; adult/child KSh500/100; h8am-5pm)

The main collection here is housed in an old railway building and consists of relics from the East African Railway. There are train and ship models, photographs, tableware, and oddities from the history of the railway, such as the engine seat that allowed visiting dignitaries like Theodore Roosevelt to take potshots at unsuspecting wildlife from the front of the train.

In the grounds are dozens of fading locomotives in various states of disrepair, dating from the steam days to independence. You can walk around the carriages at your leisure. At the back of the compound is the steam train used in the movie Out of Africa. It’s a fascinating introduction to this important piece of colonial history.

The museum is reached by a long lane beside the train station.

Nairobi National Park

1Top Sights

1David Sheldrick Wildlife TrustC4

2Giraffe CentreB4

3Karen Blixen's House & MuseumA3

4Nairobi National ParkC3

1Sights

5Bomas of KenyaC2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Abercrombie & KentE2

7GametrackersC3

8Language Center LtdC1

9Pollman's Tours & SafarisF2

10Private SafarisE2

4Sleeping

11Dea's GardensA3

12EmakokoF5

Giraffe ManorB4

13Karen Blixen CottagesA3

14Karen CampA2

15Milimani Backpackers & Safari CentreB2

16PalacinaD1

17Wildebeest Eco CampB2

5Eating

18CarnivoreD2

19TalismanA2

20Tin Roof CafeA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

Simba SaloonD2

7Shopping

21Maasai MarketC1

SoukA2

22UtamaduniB3

Nairobi National Park

oNairobi National ParkNATIONAL PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2423423; www.kws.org/parks/parks_reserves/NANP.html; adult/child US$50/25)

Welcome to Kenya’s most accessible yet incongruous safari experience. Set on the city’s southern outskirts, Nairobi National Park (at 117 sq km, it’s one of Africa’s smallest) has abundant wildlife which can, in places, be viewed against a backdrop of city skyscrapers and airliners coming in to land – it's the only national park on earth that borders a capital city. Remarkably, the animals seem utterly unperturbed by it all.

Wildlife

Nairobi National Park has acquired the nickname ‘Kifaru Ark’, a testament to its success as a rhinoceros (kifaru in Kiswahili) sanctuary. The park is home to the world's densest concentration of black rhinoceros (over 50). But even proximity to Kenya's largest city couldn't prevent poachers from killing one of the park's rhinos in August 2013. It was the first such attack in six years.

Lions and hyenas are also commonly sighted within the park; park rangers at the entrance usually have updates on lion movements. You’ll need a bit of patience and a lot of luck to spot the park’s resident cheetahs and leopards. Other regularly spotted species include gazelle, warthog, zebra, giraffe, ostrich and buffalo.

The park’s wetland areas also sustain approximately 400 bird species, which is more than in the whole of the UK.

Ivory Burning Monument

Not far inside the park's main Langata Road Gate, the Ivory Burning Monument marks the spot where, in 1989, Kenyan President Daniel arap Moi burnt 12 tons of ivory at a site near the main gate. This dramatic event improved Kenya’s conservation image at a time when East African wildlife was being decimated by relentless poaching.

Getting There & Around

Matatus 125 and 126 (KSh50, 30 to 45 minutes) pass by the main park entrance from the train station. You can also go by private vehicle. Nairobi tour companies offer half-day safaris (from US$75 per person).

Apart from the main entrance, which lies 7km from the CBD, there are other gates on Magadi Rd and the Athi River Gate; the latter is handy if you’re continuing on to Mombasa, Amboseli or the Tanzanian border. The roads in the park are passable with 2WDs, but travelling in a 4WD is never a bad idea, especially if the rains have been heavy.

Unless you already have your own vehicle, the cheapest way to see the park is on the park shuttle, a big KWS bus that leaves the main gate at 2pm on Sunday for a 2½-hour tour. You need to book in person at the main gate by 1.30pm. There was talk of this service being discontinued so ring ahead to avoid disappointment.

KIBERA

Home to as many as one million residents, Kibera is the world’s second-largest shanty town (after Soweto in Johannesburg, South Africa). Although it covers 2.5 sq km in area, it’s home to somewhere between a quarter and a third of Nairobi’s population, and has a density of an estimated 300,000 people per sq km. The neighbourhood was thrust into the Western imagination when it featured prominently in the Fernando Meirelles film The Constant Gardener, which is based on the book of the same name by John le Carré. The area is heavily polluted by open sewers, and lacks even the most basic infrastructure; residents of Kibera suffer from poor nutrition, violent crime and disease.

ORIENTATION

Kibera is southwest of the CBD. The railway line heading to Kisumu intersects Kibera, though the shanty town doesn’t actually have a station. However, the railway line does serve as the main thoroughfare through Kibera, and you’ll find shops selling basic provisions along the tracks.

VISITING KIBERA

A visit to Kibera is one way to look behind the headlines and touch on, albeit briefly, the daily struggles and triumphs of life in the town; there’s nothing quite like the enjoyment of playing a bit of footy with street children aspiring to be the next Didier Drogba. Although you could visit on your own, security is an issue, and such visits aren’t always appreciated by residents. The best way to visit is on a tour. Three companies we recommend are Explore Kibera (explorekibera.com; per person US$29; h9am & 2pm daily), Kibera Tours (%0721391630, 0723669218; kiberatours.com; per person KSh2500) and KUFET (%0721751905; www.kiberaeverydayslumtours.com; per person US$25).

GETTING THERE & AWAY

You can get to Kibera by taking bus 32 or matatu 32c from the Kencom building along Moi Ave. Be advised that this route is notorious for petty theft, so be extremely vigilant and pay attention to your surroundings.

Karen & Langata

oGiraffe CentreWILDLIFE RESERVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8070804; www.giraffecenter.org; Koitobos Rd; adult/child KSh1000/500; h9am-5pm)

This centre, which protects the highly endangered Rothschild’s giraffe, combines serious conservation with enjoyable activities. You can observe, hand-feed or even kiss one of the giraffes from a raised wooden structure, which is quite an experience. You may also spot warthogs snuffling about in the mud, and there’s an interesting self-guided forest walk through the adjacent Gogo River Bird Sanctuary.

oDavid Sheldrick Wildlife TrustWILDLIFE RESERVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2301396; www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org)

Occupying a plot within Nairobi National Park, this non-profit trust was established in 1977, shortly after the death of David Sheldrick, who served as the anti-poaching warden of Tsavo National Park. Together with his wife Daphne, David pioneered techniques for raising orphaned black rhinos and elephants and reintroducing them back into the wild, and the trust retains close links with Tsavo for these and other projects. The centre is one of Nairobi's most popular attractions, and deservedly so.

After entering at 11am, visitors are escorted to a small viewing area centred on a muddy watering hole. A few moments later, much like a sports team marching out onto the field, the animal handlers come in alongside a dozen or so baby elephants. For the first part of the viewing, the handlers bottle-feed the baby elephants – a strangely heartwarming sight.

Once the little guys have drunk their fill, they proceed to romp around like big babies. The elephants seem to take joy in misbehaving in front of their masters, so don’t be surprised if a few break rank and start rubbing up against your leg! The baby elephants also use this designated timeslot for their daily mud bath, which makes for some great photos; keep your guard up as they’ve been known to spray a tourist or two with a trunkful of mud.

While the elephants gambol around, the keepers talk about the individual orphans and their stories. Explanations are given about the the broader picture of the orphans project and some of the other projects the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is involved in. There's also the opportunity to 'adopt' one of the elephants.

The Trust is also home to a number of orphaned rhinos, many of which, like the baby elephants, mingle with wild herds in Nairobi National Park during the day. One exception is Maxwell, a blind rhino who lives in a large stockade for his protection.

To get here by bus or matatu, take 125 or 126 from Moi Ave and ask to be dropped off at the KWS central workshop on Magadi Rd (KSh60, 50 minutes). It’s about 1km from the workshop gate to the Sheldrick centre – it’s signposted and KWS staff can give you directions. Be advised that at this point you’ll be walking in the national park, which does contain predators, so stick to the paths. A taxi should cost between KSh1500 and KSh2000 from the city centre.

oKaren Blixen's House & MuseumHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museums.or.ke; Karen Rd; adult/child KSh1200/600; h9.30am-6pm)

If you loved Out of Africa, you'll love this place. This museum is the farmhouse where author Karen Blixen lived between 1914 and 1931. She left after a series of personal tragedies, but the lovely colonial house has been preserved as a museum. The museum is set in expansive gardens, and is an interesting place to wander around. That said, the movie was actually shot at a nearby location, so don’t be surprised if things don’t look entirely right!

Bomas of KenyaCULTURAL CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8068400; www.bomasofkenya.co.ke; Langata Rd; adult/child KSh800/400; hperformances 2.30-4pm Mon-Fri, 3.30-5.15pm Sat & Sun, 'villages' 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

The talented resident artists at this cultural centre perform traditional dances and songs taken from the country’s various tribal groups, including Arabic-influenced Swahili taarab music, Kalenjin warrior dances, Embu drumming and Kikuyu circumcision ceremonies. It’s touristy, of course, but still a spectacular afternoon out. The complex consists of a number of 'bomas' or villages, each constructed in the architectural style of Kenya's major ethnic groups.

YOU KNOW YOU'RE IN NAIROBI WHEN...

The main topic of conversation is the terrible traffic, followed by an experience/discussion/argument on/with/against a Ma-3 (slang for matatu – because tatu means 3 in Swahili…)
You hear people talking in sheng, a street slang that mixes English with Swahili
Ghetto FM (sheng radio station) or Radio Jambo with Mbusi ('Goat' – a popular presenter) is playing on the radio
Your plans for the weekend are plans for 'Sato' (Saturday)
You spot the marabou storks near Nyayo Stadium Roundabout
You see a Maasai warrior walking down the road chatting on a cellphone
You find yourself caught in rush-hour traffic going out of the city at 9am on Friday morning
Did we mention the traffic?

zFestivals & Events

Kenya Music FestivalMUSIC

(%020-2712964; Kenyatta Conference Centre)

Kenya’s longest-running music festival was established almost 80 years ago by the colonial regime. African music now predominates, but Western and expat musicians still take part. It’s held over 10 days in August.

Tusker Safari SevensRUGBY

(www.safarisevens.com)

A high-profile, international seven-a-side rugby tournament. It’s always hotly contested and the Kenyan team has a strong record in the tournament, reaching the semi-finals in 2011. It’s held in October and November.

WORTH A TRIP

KIAMBETHU TEA FARM

Kiambethu Tea FarmFARM

(%0733769976, 020-2012542; www.kiambethufarm.co.ke; guided tour & lunch per person KSh2600)

A visit to the Kiambethu Tea Farm is a wonderful chance to get an insight into Kenya’s tea plantations (Kenya is the world’s largest exporter of black tea), as well as being an immensely enjoyable excursion from the city. The guided tour takes you through the history of Kenyan tea-growing, visits the lovely colonial-era farmhouse and can also encompass a nearby stand of primary forest.

Advance bookings are essential and some Nairobi tour companies can make the necessary arrangements, including transport. If you’re coming in your own vehicle, print out the detailed directions from its website. The farm is around 25km northwest of central Nairobi.

4Sleeping

City Centre

Central YMCAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2724116; State House Rd; dm/s/d from KSh1000/1400/2100; p)

While it might not inspire the Village People to dedicate a song to it, this central spot has a decent range of passable rooms. Note that you don’t need to be a man or a Christian to stay at the YMCA, though you’ll certainly be in the majority here if you’re either. Breakfast is available for KSh500, and other meals for KSh750.

Terminal HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2228817; Moktar Daddah St; s/d/tr KSh2000/2500/2800)

Although it’s lacking in quality compared to other midrange offerings, the Terminal Hotel is preferable to the rock-bottom budget crash pads in the city centre. The emphasis here is on doing the basics well, with no overblown attempts at tourist frills, and the clean and adequate rooms speak for themselves.

oKahama HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3742210; www.kahamahotels.co.ke; Murang’a Rd; s/d from US$50/60; pW)

Almost equidistant between the city centre and the National Museum, this place is a terrific choice. Its catchcry is ‘Economy with Style’ and it pretty much lives up to it, with pleasant rooms, comfy beds and free wifi. The only downside? The new highway passes by the front door – ask for a room at the back.

oSarova Stanley HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2757000; www.sarovahotels.com/stanley; cnr Kimathi St & Kenyatta Ave; s/d from US$104/128; paWs)

A Nairobi classic. The original Stanley Hotel was established in 1902 – past guests include Ernest Hemingway, Clark Gable, Ava Gardner and Gregory Peck – and the hotel makes a cameo appearance in some of Hemingway's works. The latest version boasts large and luxurious rooms, and colonial decor prevails inside, with lashings of green leather, opulent chandeliers and old-fashioned fans.

The real highlight (at least from our perspective!) is the Thorn Tree Café, which inspired Lonely Planet’s online community. Rates vary considerably with the seasons and availability, and are generally cheaper on weekends.

Meridian Court HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2220006; www.meridianhotelkenya.com; Muranga’a Rd; s/d from KSh8650/9850; piWs)

The elaborate lobby here is rather more prepossessing than the rooms, but it’s hardly worth complaining when you’re essentially getting a suite for the price of a standard room. There’s no great luxury involved and some of the furnishings have seen better days, but the pool, bar and restaurants make it terrific value in this price range. The superior rooms are rarely worth the extra.

Nairobi Serena HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2822000; www.serenahotels.com; Procession Way, Central Park; r from US$210; paiWs)

Consolidating its reputation as one of the best top-flight chains in East Africa, this entry in the Serena canon has a fine sense of individuality, with its international-class facilities displaying a touch of safari style. Of particular note is the onsite Maisha health spa. Opt for one of the amazing garden suites, where you can take advantage of your own private patio, complete with mini-pergola.

Norfolk HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2265000; www.fairmont.com/norfolkhotel; Harry Thuku Rd; r from US$289; paWs)

Built in 1904 but overhauled many times since, Nairobi’s oldest hotel was the place to stay during colonial days. The hotel remains the traditional starting point for elite safaris, and the Lord Delamere Terrace is still Nairobi’s most famous meeting place. Thanks to the leafy grounds, it has an almost rustic feel, although the recently renovated rooms have lost a little of that classic Norfolk look.

Milimani & Nairobi Hill

oWildebeest Eco CampTENTED CAMP

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0734770733; wildebeestecocamp.com; 151 Mokoyeti Road West, Langata; garden tent s/d from KSh4500/5500, deluxe garden tents s/d US$113/138)

This fabulous place in Langata is arguably Nairobi’s outstanding budget option. The atmosphere is relaxed yet switched on, and the accommodation is spotless and great value however much you’re paying. The deluxe garden tents are as good as many exclusive such places out on safari – for a fraction of the price. A great Nairobi base.

Milimani Backpackers & Safari CentreBACKPACKERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722347616, 0718919020; www.milimanibackpackers.com; Karen St, St. Helens Lane, off Langata Rd, Milimani; camping KSh700, dm KSh1000, cabins s/d KSh2200/2500; iW)

This terrific place is one of the friendliest accommodation options in town, and whether you camp out back, cosy up in the dorms or splurge on your own cabin, you’ll end up huddled around the fire at night, swapping travel stories and dining on home-cooked meals (from KSh500) with fellow travellers. The friendly staff can also help you book a safari, organise onward travel or simply get your bearings.

Town LodgeHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2881600; clhg.com; Second Ngong Ave, Milimani; s/d from KSh11,700/16,100; piW)

The focus here is on affordable comfort for business travellers, with attractive if somewhat sterile rooms. It's one of the best-value midrange options in Nairobi – there's a small gym, excellent breakfasts and you can take advantage of the bars and restaurants at the Fairview next door.

PalacinaBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2715517; www.palacina.com; Kitale Lane; ste 1-/2-person US$330/498, penthouse US$830, one-/two-bedroom apt per month US$2995/4150; pWs)

The fabulous collection of stylish suites – at what was one of the first genuine boutique hotels in Kenya – is perfect for well-heeled sophisticates who still like the personal touch. Intimate rooms are awash with calming tones, boldly accented by rich teak woods, lavish furniture and private Jacuzzis.

Nairobi National Park

oEmakokoLODGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0787331632, 0771238218; www.emakoko.com; Uhuru Gardens; s/d US$525/860; piWs)

This stunning, artfully designed lodge inhabits a rise overlooking Nairobi National Park and the Mbagathi River. It's a wonderful way to begin or end your Kenyan safari by bypassing the hassles of Nairobi altogether, and the rooms and public areas are exquisite. Ask for one of the rooms that look out over the park.

Karen & Langata

Karen CampCAMPGROUND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8833475, 0723314053; www.karencamp.com; Marula Lane, Karen; camping US$7, dm/s/d US$15/35/50, tw with shared bathroom US$40; p)

You wouldn’t expect to find a backpacker-friendly option out here in affluent Karen, which is why we like this friendly little spot so much. The quiet location and smart facilities are reason enough to make the trek out to the shady campsites, spick-and-span dorms and simple rooms (with mosquito nets).

Dea's GardensGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733747443, 0734453761; www.deasgardens.com; Kwarara Road, off Ndege Rd; per person KSh7700)

Following a similar formula to its sister property in Naivasha, Dea's Gardens Nairobi has simple yet light-filled and attractive rooms ranged across two floors of a large Karen home. The garden is green and lovely and Lisa is a gracious host.

Karen Blixen CottagesBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-882138, 0733616206; www.karenblixencoffeegarden.com; 336 Karen Rd, Karen; s/d US$330/515; pWs)

Located near Karen Blixen's House & Museum, this gorgeous clutch of spacious cottages is centred on a formal garden, and adjacent to a small coffee plantation and a country restaurant. It’s sophisticated, supremely comfortable and if you’re keen on having an Out of Africa experience, then look no further.

Giraffe ManorHISTORIC HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8891078; www.thesafaricollection.com; Mukoma Rd, Karen; s/d full board from US$772/1124; p)

Built in 1932 in typical English style, this elegant manor is situated on 56 hectares, much of which is given over to the adjacent Giraffe Centre. As a result, you may find a Rothschild’s giraffe peering through your bedroom window first thing in the morning. And yet, the real appeal of the Giraffe Manor is that you’re treated as a personal guest of the owners.

5Eating

City Centre

oSavanna: The Coffee LoungeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Museum Hill Rd; snacks from KSh200, mains KSh500-700; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun)

This classy little chain has outposts across Nairobi, including one ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Loita St; snacks from KSh200, mains KSh500-700; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) in the town centre, but we particularly like the tranquillity of this branch inside the grounds of the National Museum. Decor is safari chic without being overdone, service is friendly and unobtrusive, and dishes include pies, wraps, samosas, sandwiches, burgers, pasta, soups and salads.

oBeneve Coffee HouseCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-217959; cnr Standard & Koinange Sts; mains KSh150-350; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri)

This small self-service cafe has locals queuing outside in the mornings waiting for it to open. Food ranges from African- and Indian-influenced stews to curries, fish and chips, samosas, pasties and a host of other choices, all at low, low prices.

Nyama Choma StallsKENYAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Haile Selassie Ave; mains around KSh500)

At these backstreet stalls near the Railway Museum, behind the Shell petrol station, foreigners are a rare sight, but you’ll be warmly welcomed and encouraged to sample Kenyan dishes such as matoke (cooked mashed plantains) and wonderful barbecued meat.

Pasara CaféINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ground fl, Lonrho Bldg, Standard St; dishes KSh275-395; h7am-midnight Mon-Sat)

At the forefront of Nairobi’s burgeoning cafe culture, this stylish, modern bar-brasserie has a nifty selection of snacks, sandwiches, grills and breakfasts, always offering something that bit more ambitious than the usual cafeteria fare; try the chicken tikka burger and a milkshake for example.

oThorn Tree CaféINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-228030; Sarova Stanley Hotel, cnr Kimathi St & Kenyatta Ave; mains KSh1000-2100; h11am-10pm)

The Stanley’s legendary cafe still serves as a popular meeting place for travellers of all persuasions, and caters to most tastes with a good mix of food. The original thorn-tree noticeboard in the courtyard gave rise to the general expression, and inspired Lonely Planet’s own online Thorn Tree Travel Forum. The menu ranges from grilled giant prawns to Kenyan-style chicken stew.

oTamarind RestaurantSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2251811; www.tamarind.co.ke; off Harambee Ave; mains KSh1100-2800; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat)

Kenya’s most prestigious restaurant chain runs Nairobi’s best seafood restaurant, located in the monumental National Bank Building. The splendid menu offers all manner of exotic flavours, and the lavish dining room is laid out in a sumptuous modern Arabic-Moorish style. Starters range from Hibiscus-flamed seafood to an exquisite seafood platter.

Westlands

Haandi RestaurantINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-4448294; The Mall Shopping Centre, Ring Rd, Westlands; mains KSh750-1700; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; a)

Widely regarded as the best Indian restaurant in Kenya, Haandi rises above its nondescript shopping-mall location. The expansive menu includes wonderful Mughlai (North Indian) spreads, tandoori dishes and plenty of vegetarian curries. Most dishes are served with Haandi’s signature stacks of naan and piles of basmati rice. It has sister restaurants in Kampala and London, and even sells its own souvenir T-shirts.

AbyssiniaETHIOPIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0725151515; Brookside Grove, Westlands; mains KSh500-900; h11am-11pm)

Consistently good reviews from expats, locals and travellers alike make this an excellent choice for high-quality Ethiopian cooking. Aside from the rich tastes of the varied main dishes, the injere (Ethiopian crepe-like bread) is perfectly light, just as it should be. It's worth coming here just for the coffee ceremony.

Westlands

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Savage Wilderness SafarisA1

5Eating

2Haandi RestaurantB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

3Gypsy's BarA2

4Havana BarB2

5K1 Klub HouseC2

7Shopping

6Spinners WebA2

Information

AAR Health Services ClinicB1

7Automobile Association of KenyaB1

Barclays BankB1

8Barclays BankA1

Savage Wilderness SafarisA1

Transport

9Bus & Matatu StandsB2

10Bus & Matatu StandsB2

Karen & Langata

oTalismanINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0705999997; www.thetalismanrestaurant.com; 320 Ngong Rd, Karen; mains KSh1200-2200; h8am-10pm Tue-Sat, 9am-10pm Sun)

This classy cafe-bar-restaurant remains fashionable with the Karen in-crowd, and rivals any of Kenya’s top eateries for imaginative international food. The comfortable lounge-like rooms mix modern African and European styles, the courtyard provides some welcome air, and specials such as pan-seared ostrich fillet perk up the palate no end.

Tin Roof CafeCAFE, INTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0706348215; www.facebook.com/TinRoofCafe; Dagoretti Rd, Karen; mains from Ksh500; h8.30am-5.30pm; W)

This place has all the necessary ingredients to be a Nairobi favourite – a quiet garden setting in Karen, great coffee, the city's best salad bar and a commitment to healthy eating. Our only complaint? It doesn't open for dinner. Due to popular demand, it began to open on Sundays not long after our visit. Souk, a fabulous shopping experience, is on the same property.

CarnivoreGRILLED MEATS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733611608, 020-605933; www.tamarind.co.ke/carnivore/; off Langata Rd, Karen; buffet from KSh3000; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm; p)

Love it or hate it, Carnivore is hands down the most famous nyama choma (barbecued meat) in Kenya, an icon among tourists, expats and wealthier locals for the past 25 years. At the entrance is a huge barbecue pit laden with real swords of beef, pork, lamb, chicken and farmed game meats.

Carnivore was voted by UK magazine Restaurant as among the 50 best restaurants in the world in 2002 and 2003. This honour was largely in recognition of the fact that you could dine here on exotic game meats. In recent years, however, strict new laws mean that zebra, hartebeest, kudu and the like are now off the menu, and you have to be content with camel, ostrich and crocodile, in addition to more standard offerings. You also get soup, salads and sauces to go with the meats.

As long as the paper flag on your table is flying, waiters will keep bringing the meat, which is carved right at the table; if you’re in need of a breather, you can tip the flag over temporarily. Note that dessert and coffee (but not other drinks) are included in the set price.

This meat-fest does have its critics – prices are high and the waiters, hats and all, can seem like the ringmasters of a circus with their enthusiastic bonhomie. But if you take it for what it is, you’ll leave satisfied.

At lunchtime, you can get to Carnivore by matatu 126 from the city centre – the turn-off is signposted just past Wilson Airport, from where it’s a 1km walk. At night, it’s best to hire a taxi, which should run to about KSh800 each way depending on your bargaining skills.

At night you may wish to stay on for an all-night dance-athon at the adjacent Simba Saloon.

WORTH A TRIP

NYAMA CHOMA AT THE RIFT

Olepolos Country ClubKENYAN

(%0714032122; Corner Baridi, C58; meals from KSh750; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun)

If you've your own wheels and a taste for barbecued meat, take the road southwest out of Nairobi, past Kiserian on the road to Lake Magadi to Corner Baridi where this fine, simple little place serves up roasted meat and roast chicken. Wash it down with cold Tuskers as you look out over the Rift Valley, and we reckon you're somewhere close to heaven.

It's around 34km southwest of downtown Nairobi near the town of Kisamis. If you don't have your own wheels, take matatu 126 as far as Kiserian and then hire a taxi.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Western cafe culture has hit Nairobi, seized upon enthusiastically by local expats and residents pining for a decent cup of Kenyan coffee. This is the best place in the country for real coffee.

There are plenty of cheap but very rough-and-ready bars around Latema Rd and River Rd, although these places aren’t recommended for female travellers, and even male drinkers should watch themselves. You can also head to Westlands and Karen, where the drinking scene brings in a lot more expats. Be aware that, even in the ‘burbs, foreign women without a man in tow will draw attention.

Nightclubs usually open from 9pm until 6am.

City Centre

oNairobi Java HouseCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-313565; www.nairobijavahouse.com; Mama Ngina St; coffee KSh150-350; h6.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 7am- 9pm Sat, 8am-8pm Sun)

This fantastic coffeehouse is rapidly turning itself into a major brand, and you may see its logo on T-shirts as far afield as London and beyond. Aficionados say the coffee’s some of the best in Kenya, and there are plenty of cakes and other sweet and savoury treats (even New York cheesecake).

oSimmersBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-217659; cnr Kenyatta Ave & Muindi Mbingu St; admission free; h8am-1am)

If you’re tired of having your butt pinched to the strains of limp R&B in darkened discos, Simmers could be your place. The atmosphere at this open-air bar-restaurant is amazing, with enthusiastic crowds turning out to wind and grind the night away to parades of bands playing anything from Congolese rumba to Kenyan benga (contemporary dance).

oLord Delamere Terrace & BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fairmont.com/NorfolkHotel; Norfolk Hotel, Harry Thuku Rd; h6.30am-10.30pm)

Once one of Africa's classic bars, the Lord Delamere Terrace was the starting point for so many epic colonial safaris, and the scene of tall tales told by men such as Ernest Hemingway and the Great White Hunters of the early 20th century. Not much of the old atmosphere remains, but come here as a pilgrimage to the Africa of old.

Florida 2000CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0706577009; floridaclubskenya.com; Moi Ave; men/women KSh300/200; h9pm-6am)

This big dancing den, known by everyone as F2, is near City Hall Way. It works to a fairly uncomplicated formula of booze, beats and tightly packed bodies. As is typical in Nairobi, every night is a little different: Thursday is techno trance, Friday is rumba, Saturday could be soul and so on.

Westlands

oGypsy’s BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Woodvale Grove; h11am-4am)

This is one of the most popular bars in Westlands, pulling in a large, mixed crowd of Kenyans, expats and prostitutes. Snacks are available, and there’s decent Western and African music, with parties taking over the pavement in summer.

K1 Klub HouseBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-749870, 0714579265; www.klubhouse.co.ke; Parklands Rd; h24hr)

At the western end of Westlands, the Klub House is another old favourite. The spacious bar has plenty of pool tables and excellent DJs spinning reggae, dancehall, hip-hop and R&B until late. Watch for live bands on Saturday nights, Tuesday night is jazz, while Wednesday is Ladies' night.

Havana BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0723265941, 020-4450653; www.havana.co.ke; Woodvale Grove, Westlands; hnoon-3am)

Thursday nights at the Havana Bar are one of Nairobi's hottest tickets, drawing a broad cross-section of Nairobi night owls, prostitutes among them. Latin tunes that often stray into techno provide a varied soundtrack, and you can lubricate the night with anything from Kenyan coffee, South African wines and middle shelf international spirits to a rather fine mojito. Ask for the menu of Cuban cigars.

Karen & Langata

Simba SaloonCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-501706; www.tamarind.co.ke/simba-saloon; off Langata Rd; admission KSh250-400; h5pm-late Wed-Sun; 126, u)

Next door to Carnivore out on the road to Karen, this large open-air bar and nightclub pulls in a huge crowd. There are video screens, several bars, a bonfire, and unashamedly Western music on the dance floor, although you might get the occasional African superstar playing live. It’s usually crammed with wealthy Kenyans, expat teenagers, travellers and NGO workers, plus a fair sprinkling of prostitutes.

3Entertainment

For information on entertainment in Nairobi and for big music venues in the rest of the country, get hold of the Saturday Nation, the Saturday edition of Kenya's daily newspaper, which is sold by wandering vendors all over Nairobi and lists everything from cinema releases to live-music venues.

oLive at the ElephantLIVE MUSIC

(%0721946710; Gate 3, Kanjata Rd; hfrom 8pm Fri)

This could just be our favourite live music venue in town. It draws a trendy, upmarket crowd with its fair share of Nairobi hipsters for the regular program of up-and-coming artists (mostly Kenyan with some from further afield in Africa). It's in the Lavington area. Check out the Facebook page (www.facebook.com/LiveAtTheElephant) to see what's coming up.

oBlankets & WineLIVE MUSIC

(%0720801333, 0736801333; blanketsandwine.com; tickets KSh1500-2500; h1st Sun of month)

This monthly picnic-concert is one of the best-loved features on Nairobi's live music circuit. Musicians vary but the underlying principle is to support local and other East African acts, from acoustic and singer-songwriter to rock and roots. Families are welcome and the venue changes each month – next door to Simba Saloon is one of the popular locations.

7Shopping

oSoukARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0706348215; www.souk-kenya.com; Dagoretti Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Some of Kenya's more creative artists, photographers, leatherworkers and other high-quality artists have come together under one roof, and the result is some of Kenya's most discerning shopping experiences. It shares premises with the equally excellent Tin Roof Cafe.

oUtamaduniHANDICRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.utamaduni.com; Bogani East Rd, Karen; h9am-6pm)

Utamaduni is a large crafts emporium, with more than a dozen separate rooms selling all kinds of excellent African artworks and souvenirs. Prices start relatively high, but there’s none of the hard sell you’d get in town. A portion of all proceeds goes to the Kenya Wildlife Foundation. There’s an on-site restaurant and playground. It’s close to the Giraffe Centre.

Spinners WebHANDICRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2072629, 0731168996; www.spinnerswebkenya.com; Getathuru Gardens, off Peponi Rd, Spring Valley; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun)

This place works with workshops and self-help groups around the country. It’s a bit like a handicrafts version of Ikea, with goods displayed the way they might look in a Western living room. There are some appealing items, including carpets, wall-hangings, ceramics, wooden bowls, baskets and clothing.

Maasai MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Slip Road; hTue)

Busy, popular Maasai markets are held every Tuesday on the waste ground near Slip Rd in town. Souvenirs on offer include beaded jewellery, gourds, baskets and other Maasai crafts, but you'll have to bargain hard. The market is open from early morning to late afternoon. Other locations include Friday behind the Village Market shopping complex ( GOOGLE MAP ; Village Market, Limuru Rd; hFri), downtown ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; opposite Reinsurance Plaza, Taita Rd; hSat) on Saturday, and on Sunday next to the Yaya Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Argwings Kodhek; hSun).

City MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Muindi Mbingu St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)

The city’s main souvenir business is concentrated in this covered market, which has dozens of stalls selling wood carvings, drums, spears, shields, soapstone, Maasai jewellery and clothing. It’s a hectic place and you’ll have to bargain hard (and we mean hard), but there’s plenty of good stuff on offer. It’s an interesting place to wander around in its own right, though you generally need to be shopping to make the constant hassle worth the bother.

8Information

NAIROBI SAFETY

First-time visitors to Nairobi are understandably daunted by ‘Nairobbery's’ unenviable reputation. Read the local newspapers and you’ll quickly discover that carjacking, robbery and violence are daily occurrences.

The most likely annoyance for travellers is petty theft, which is most likely to occur at budget hotels and campsites. As a general rule, you should take advantage of your hotel’s safe and never leave your valuables out in the open. While you’re walking around town, don’t bring anything with you that you wouldn’t want to lose. As an extra safety precaution, it’s best to only carry money in your wallet, and hide your credit cards and bank cards elsewhere.

In the event that you are mugged, never, ever resist – simply give up your valuables and, more often than not, your assailant will flee the scene rapidly. Remember that a petty thief and a violent aggressor are very different kinds of people, so don’t give your assailant any reason to do something rash.

While it’s important to understand the potential dangers and annoyances, you shouldn’t let fear exile you to your hotel room – remember that the majority of foreign visitors in Nairobi never experience any kind of problem. Exude confidence, practise street smarts, don't wear anything too flashy and you should encounter nothing worse than a few persistent safari touts and the odd con artist.

POTENTIAL TROUBLE SPOTS

Nairobi’s Central Business District (CBD), bounded by Kenyatta Ave, Moi Ave, Haile Selassie Ave and Uhuru Hwy, is quite relaxed and hassle-free by day. After sunset, mugging is a risk anywhere on the streets, and you should always take a taxi, even if you’re only going a few blocks. This will also keep you safe from the attentions of Nairobi’s street prostitutes, who flood into town in force after dark.

Other potential danger zones include the area around Latema and River Rds (east of Moi Ave), which is a hot spot for petty theft. This area is home to the city’s bus terminals, so keep an eye on your bags and personal belongings at all times if passing through here.

Emergency

Emergency servicesEMERGENCY

(%999)

The national emergency number to call for fire, police and ambulance assistance. A word of warning, though – don’t rely on prompt arrival.

PolicePOLICE

(%020-240000, emergency services 999)

Phone for less-urgent police business.

St John’s AmbulanceAMBULANCE

(%2210000)

Tourist HelplinePOLICE

(%020-604767; h24hr)

Internet Access

Your hotel is probably your best bet. Otherwise, there are hundreds of internet cafes in downtown Nairobi, most of them tucked away in anonymous office buildings in the town centre and few of which seem designed to last the distance. Connection speed is decent assuming you’re not streaming YouTube, though machine quality varies wildly. It can be difficult to find any internet cafes open in the downtown area on Sunday.

Medical Services

AAR Health ServicesMEDICAL CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0731191070, 0725225225; www.aarhealth.com/aar_ke/; Williamson House, Fourth Ngong Ave; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun)

Probably the best of a number of private ambulance and emergency air-evacuation companies. It also runs private clinics at various locations around Nairobi, including in Westlands ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

Acacia Medical CentreMEDICAL CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2212200; info@acaciamed.co.ke; ICEA Bldg, Kenyatta Ave; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat, 8am-5pm Sun)

Privately run clinic in the city centre.

Aga Khan HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3662020; Third Parklands Ave; h24hr)

A reliable hospital with 24-hour emergency services.

KAM PharmacyPHARMACY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2227195; www.kampharmacy.com; Executive Tower, IPS Bldg, Kimathi St; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2pm Sat)

A one-stop shop for medical treatment, with a pharmacy, doctor’s surgery and laboratory.

Money

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport has several exchange counters in the baggage reclaim area and a Barclays Bank (h24hr) with an ATM outside in the arrivals hall. There are Barclays branches with guarded ATMs throughout the city centre and further afield.

Post

Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-243434; Kenyatta Ave; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)

The vast main post office is a well-organised edifice close to Uhuru Park. Around the back of the main building is the EMS office ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat), for courier deliveries, and there’s a Telkom Kenya office upstairs. Other post office locations are shown on the map.

Travel Agencies

Bunson TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3685990; www.bunsontravel.com; 2nd fl, Park Place, Limuru Rd)

A good upmarket operator (part of the Carlson Wagonlit stable) selling air tickets and upmarket safaris.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Nairobi has two airports, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport and Wilson Airport.

Bus

In Nairobi, most long-distance bus company offices are in the River Rd area, clustered around Accra Rd and the surrounding streets, although some also have offices on Monrovia St for their international services. You should always make your reservation up to 24 hours in advance and check (then double check) the departure point from where the bus leaves.

Dream Line BUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0731777799)

A reliable company connecting Nairobi to Mombasa and Malindi.

Easy CoachBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0726354301, 0738200301; www.easycoach.co.ke; Haile Selassie Ave, Nairobi)

Long-standing company serving western Kenyan destinations as well as running some international buses to Uganda.

Modern Coast ExpressBUS

(Oxygen; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0726778852, 0713202255; www.moderncoastexpress.com; cnr Cross Lane & Accra Rd)

Safer, more reliable and slightly more expensive buses to Mombasa, Malindi and Kisumu, with Mombasa–Dar es-Salaam and Nairobi–Kampala services.

Riverside ShuttleBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722220176; www.riverside-shuttle.com; Monrovia St)

Mostly international services to Arusha, Moshi and Kilimanjaro International Airport (Tanzania).

Matatu

Most matatus leave from the chaotic Latema, Accra, River and Cross Rds and fares are similar to the buses. Most companies are pretty much the same, although there are some that aim for higher standards than others. Mololine Prestige Shuttle, which operates along the Nairobi–Naivasha–Nakuru–Eldoret route, is one such company, with others set to follow their example on other routes.

Train

Until the new Nairobi-Mombasa railway line comes into existence a few (perhaps many) years from now, the existing railway is slow, old and unreliable but still something of an African epic. Do it because you love trains and aren't in a hurry, not for reasons of comfort or speed.

Scheduled departure times from Nairobi are at 6.30pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. All going well, you should arrive in Mombasa at 9.45am the following morning. Tickets cost US$75 per adult (child US$55) for 1st class (two-bed berths) and US$65 (child US$45) for 2nd class (four-bed berths) including bed and breakfast (you get dinner with 1st class). Book as far in advance as possible.

Railway Booking OfficeTRAIN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Station Rd; h9am-noon & 2-6.30pm)

Nairobi train station has a small booking office. You need to come in person to book tickets a few days in advance of your intended departure. On the day of departure, arrive early.

8Getting Around

To/From Jomo Kenyatta International Airport

Kenya’s main international airport is 15km out of town, off the road to Mombasa. We recommend that you take a taxi (KSh1500 to KSh2000, but you’ll need to bargain hard) to get to/from the airport, especially after dark.

A far cheaper way to get into town is by city bus 34 (KSh40), but a lot of travellers get robbed on the bus or when they get off. Always hold onto valuables and have small change ready for the fare. Buses run from 5.45am to 9.30pm weekdays, 6.20am to 9.30pm Saturdays and 7.15am to 9.30pm Sundays, though the last few evening services may not operate. Heading to the airport, the main departure point is along Moi Ave, right outside the Hotel Ambassadeur Nairobi. Thereafter, buses travel west along Kenyatta Ave.

To/From Wilson Airport

To get to Wilson airport, the cheapest option is to take bus or matatu 15, 31, 34, 125 or 126 from Moi Ave (KSh35, 15 to 45 minutes depending on traffic). A taxi from the centre of town will cost at least KSh1000, depending on the driver. In the other direction, you’ll have to bargain the driver down from KSh1500.

Car

If you are driving, beware of wheel-clampers: parking in the centre is by permit only (KSH200), available from the parking attendants who roam the streets in bright yellow jackets.

Matatu

Nairobi’s horde of matatus follow the same routes as buses and display the same route numbers. For Westlands, you can pick up 23 on Moi Ave or Latema Rd. Matatu 46 to the Yaya Centre stops in front of the main post office, and 125 and 126 to Langata leave from in front of the train station. As usual, you should keep an eye on your valuables while on all matatus.

Taxi

Taxis here are overpriced and under-maintained, but you’ve little choice, particularly at night. Taxis don’t cruise for passengers, but you can find them parked on every other street corner in the city centre – at night they’re outside restaurants, bars and nightclubs.

Fares around town are negotiable but end up pretty standard. Any journey within the downtown area costs KSh500, from downtown to Milimani Rd costs KSh600, and for longer journeys such as Westlands or the Yaya Centre, fares range from KSh750 to KS900. From the city centre to Karen and Langata is around KSh1200 one way.

KENYAN SAFARI COMPANIES

The following companies can organise safaris to Kenya’s major safari destinations.

Abercrombie & KentSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-6950000; www.abercrombiekent.com; Abercrombie & Kent House, Mombasa Rd, Nairobi; top end)

Luxury travel company with excellent safaris to match.

Basecamp ExplorerSAFARIS

(%0733333709; www.basecampkenya.com; Nairobi Head office, Gold Rock Bldg, off Mombasa Rd; top end)

Scandinavian-owned ecotourism operator offering comprehensive and often luxurious camping itineraries with an environmentally sustainable focus.

Ben's Ecological SafarisSAFARIS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722861072, 020-2431591; www.bensecologicalsafaris.com; 4th fl Aqua Plaza, Muranga'a Rd, Nairobi; midrange to top end)

Birdwatching specialists but good for just about any natural history or cultural safaris across East Africa.

Bushbuck AdventuresSAFARIS

(%0722356838, 020-7121505; www.bushbuckadventures.com; Peponi Rd, Westlands, Nairobi; top end)

Small company specialising in personalised (including walking) safaris. It has a private, semipermanent camp in the Masai Mara.

Eastern & Southern SafarisSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2242828; www.essafari.co.ke; 6th fl, Finance House, Loita St, Nairobi; midrange to top end)

Classy and reliable outfit aiming at the midrange and upper end of the market, with standards to match. They do all the classic Kenyan trips.

Eco-ResortsSAFARIS

(%0733618183; www.eco-resorts.com; top end)S

US-based company with a variety of activity-based volunteer and cultural packages and customised safaris around Kenya. A proportion of profits go to community and conservation projects.

GametrackersSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-20025590; www.gametrackersafaris.com; Seminary Rd, off Magadi Rd, Karen, Nairobi; midrange to top end)

Long-established and reliable company with a full range of camping and lodge safaris around Kenya; one of the best operators for Lake Turkana and the north.

IntoAfricaSAFARIS

(%UK 0114-2555610; www.intoafrica.co.uk; 40 Huntingdon Cres, Sheffield, UK; midrange to top end)S

One of the most highly praised safari companies in East Africa, IntoAfrica specialises in ‘fair-trade’ trips providing insights into African life and directly supporting local communities. Combining culture and wildlife viewing is a speciality.

Origins SafarisSAFARI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3312137; www.originsafaris.info; EcoBank Towers, Standard St, Nairobi; top end)

A natural history and cultural focus, with everything from expert birdwatching to Samburu circumcision ceremonies, as well as other more mainstream safaris.

Pal-Davis AdventuresSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2522611, 0733919613; www.pal-davisadventures.com; 1st fl, Bhavesh Business Centre, Ngara Rd, Nairobi; midrange to top end)

Small Kenyan company that gets excellent reports from travellers for their wide range of personalised safaris.

Pollman’s Tours & SafarisSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3337234; www.pollmans.com; Pollman’s House, Mombasa Rd, Nairobi; midrange to top end)F

Kenyan-based operator that covers all the main national parks, with coastal and Tanzanian trips as well.

Private SafarisSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Mombasa 0722203780, Nairobi 020-3607000; www.privatesafaris.co.ke; 2nd fl, Mobil Plaza, Muthaiga, Nairobi; top end)

Another safari agent offering trips that can be highly customised, Private can book trips all throughout sub-Saharan Africa.

Safari Icon TravelSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0724112227, 020-2242818; www.safariicon.com; 4th fl, Nacico Chambers, cnr Kenyatta & Moi Aves; midrange)

Well-regarded local company that covers a wide range of safari options in Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda.

Safe Ride Tours & SafarisSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-2101162; www.saferidesafaris.com; 2nd fl, Avenue House, Kenyatta Ave, Nairobi; budget)

A relatively new budget operator recommended for camping excursions around the country.

Samburu Trails Trekking SafarisSAFARIS

(%020-2631594; www.samburutrails.com; budget to top end)

Small British specialist outfit offering a range of foot excursions in some less-visited parts of the Rift Valley.