Rwanda

Why Go?

Mention Rwanda to anyone with a small measure of geopolitical conscience, and that person will no doubt recall images of the horrific genocide that brutalised this tiny country in 1994. But since those dark days a miraculous transformation has been wrought and today the country is one of tribal unity, political stability and a promising future.

Tourism is once again a key contributor to the economy and the industry’s brightest star is the chance to track rare mountain gorillas through bamboo forests in the shadow of the Virunga volcanoes. These conical mountains are shrouded in equatorial jungles and helped earn Rwanda the well-deserved moniker of ‘Le Pays des Mille Collines’ (Land of a Thousand Hills).

So, while Rwanda’s scars may run deep, now is the time to help the country look to its future and embrace its new-found optimism.

When to Go

ADry seasons Rains ease during the long dry (mid-May to September) and short dry (mid-December to mid-March).

AJun–Jul Baby gorillas are named during the Kwita Izina ceremony.

AThe long rains Although often wet from mid-March to mid-May, travel is still possible.

Best of Nature

AVolcanoes National Park

ANyungwe Forest National Park

AAkagera National Park

Best of Culture

ANational Museum of Rwanda

AIby'Iwacu Cultural Village

AGorilla Naming Ceremony

ARukari Ancient History Museum

Rwanda Highlights

1 Hike the forested slopes of the Virungas for a close encounter with mountain gorillas and golden monkeys in Volcanoes National Park.

2 Hack your way through steamy rainforests in search of colobus monkeys and chimpanzees in the Nyungwe Forest National Park.

3 Watch an Intore dance performance at the National Museum of Rwanda, the finest museum in the country, in Huye (Butare).

4 Confront the horrors of the genocide at the haunting Kigali Memorial Centre on the outskirts of the capital.

5 Kick back with a locally brewed Bralirwa on the sandy shores of Lake Kivu at Gisenyi or the equally beautiful Kibuye further south.

6 Take a Rwandan-style safari in the up-and-coming Akagera National Park.

Kigali

Pop 1.13 MILLION

Spanning several ridges and valleys, Kigali, with its lush hillsides, flowering trees, winding boulevards and bustling streets, is arguably one of the most attractive capital cities in Africa, as well as one of the cleanest and safest.

It wasn’t always like this. Kigali exists as a testament to the peace and order that has defined Rwanda’s trajectory for more than two decades, though it bore the brunt of the genocide in 1994. When the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF) finally captured Kigali after 100 days of systematic slaughter, dead and decaying bodies littered the streets and dogs were shot en masse as they had developed a taste for human flesh.

In recent years, a massive amount of rehabilitation work has restored the city to its former graces, while increasing waves of foreign investment have sparked a number of ambitious building projects. Indeed, the rebirth of the capital has seen a surprising measure of cosmopolitanism take hold; there's plenty of good places to eat, some lively night-time action, interesting and well-presented museums and a general buzz on the streets that leaves many a visitor picturing a very bright future for the city.

Kigali

1Sights

1Camp Kigali MemorialC6

2Hotel des Mille CollinesC3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Bizidanny Tours & SafarisA3

4Primate SafarisB4

RDB City TourB3

Volcanoes SafarisC3

4Sleeping

5Auberge La CaverneC1

6Dream Apple HotelB1

Hotel des Mille CollinesC3

11Kigali Serena HotelC6

12Motel Le Garni du CentreC2

13Procure d'Accueil ReligieuxC2

14Step Town MotelC1

5Eating

15Blues CaféB2

16Bourbon Coffee ShopB2

17Chez JohnE6

18Chez RobertC3

19Heaven Restaurant & BarC3

20Khana KhazanaD3

21New CactusD6

6Drinking & Nightlife

Hotel des Mille CollinesC3

7Shopping

22CaplakiE6

23CootracB2

Information

Access BankB2

24Bank of KigaliB3

25Belgian EmbassyB5

26Canadian EmbassyF5

27EcobankB3

28Main Post OfficeC1

29RDBB3

30Ugandan EmbassyB5

Transport

31Airport Bus StopB3

KLMB2

32Yahoo ExpressB2

History

Kigali was founded in 1907 by German colonisers, but did not become the capital until Rwandan independence in 1962. Although Rwandan power was traditionally centred in Huye (Butare), Kigali was chosen because of its central location. Walking Kigali’s streets today, it is hard to imagine the horrors that unfolded here during those 100 days of madness in 1994. Roadblocks, manned by Interahamwe militia, were set up at strategic points throughout the city and tens of thousands of Rwandans were bludgeoned or hacked to death. People swarmed to the churches in search of sanctuary, but the killers followed them there and showed a complete lack of mercy or compassion.

While all of this horror took place for days and nights on end, the UN Assistance Mission for Rwanda (UNAMIR) stood by and watched, held back by the bureaucrats and politicians who failed to grasp the magnitude of what was unfolding and dithered over whether to get involved or not. In its defence, UNAMIR was bound by a restrictive mandate that prevented it from taking preliminary action, though it has been argued that the tragedy is that more deliberate action could have saved untold lives.

After 10 Belgian peacekeepers were murdered at the start of the genocide, the Belgian government withdrew its contingent, leaving UNAMIR to fend for itself with a minimal mandate and no muscle. There was little the 250 troops that remained could do but watch, and rescue or protect the few that they could.

Even more unbelievable is the fact that a contingent of the RPF was holed up in the parliamentary compound throughout this period, a legacy of the Arusha ‘peace’ process. Like the UNAMIR troops, there was little they could do to stop such widespread killing, though they did mount some spectacular rescue missions from churches and civic buildings around the city.

When the RPF finally swept the génocidaires from power in early July 1994, Kigali was wrecked; much of the city’s buildings were destroyed, and what little of the population remained alive were traumatised. As the Kigali Memorial Centre so aptly puts it, Rwanda was dead.

Remarkably, there are few visible signs of this carnage today. Kigali is now a dynamic and forward-looking city, the local economy is booming, investment is a buzzword, and buildings are springing up like mushrooms. In fact, so complete is the rebirth of the city that many first-time visitors spend their first few days walking around in a state of wonder that so much appears to have been achieved in so short a space of time.

1Sights

oKigali Memorial CentreMEMORIAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kigaligenocidememorial.org; h8am-5pm, last entry 4pm; closed public holidays)F

In the span of 100 days, an estimated one million Tutsis and moderate Hutus were systematically butchered by the Interahamwe and army. This memorial honours the estimated 250,000 people buried here in mass graves and tries to explain how it was that the world watched as the genocide unfolded.

This is an intensely powerful and moving memorial for which you should dedicate at least half a day.

The informative audio tour (US$15) includes background on the divisive colonial experience in Rwanda and as the visit progresses, the exhibits become steadily more powerful, as you are confronted with the crimes that took place here and moving video testimony from survivors. If you have remained dispassionate until this point, you’ll find that it will all catch up with you at the section that remembers the children who fell victim to the killers’ machetes. Life-sized photos are accompanied by intimate details about their favourite toys, their last words and the manner in which they were killed.

The memorial concludes with sections on the search for justice through the international tribunal in Arusha as well as the local gacaca courts (traditional tribunals headed by village elders).

Upstairs is a moving section dedicated to informing visitors about other genocides that have taken place around the world and helps set Rwanda’s nightmare in a historical context.

After you've absorbed the museum displays take a rose (by donation) to leave on one of the vast concrete slabs outside that cover the mass graves. There's also a wall of names, a rose garden and a pleasant cafe serving good coffee, lunch buffets (RFr3000), snacks and juices that is an ideal place to reflect and gather yourself before facing the outside world again.

The Kigali Memorial Centre is located in the northern Kisozi district of the capital, which is a short moto-taxi (motorcycle taxi) ride from the centre (RFr500 to RFr600).

Camp Kigali MemorialMEMORIAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue de l'Hopital; h8am-5pm)F

The 10 stone columns you find here mark the spot where 10 Belgian UN peacekeepers were murdered on the first day of the genocide. Originally deployed to protect the home of moderate prime minister Agatha Uwilingimana, the soldiers were captured, disarmed and brought here by the Presidential Guard before being killed. Each stone column represents one of the soldiers and the horizontal cuts in it represent the soldier’s age.

The bullet-sprayed building in which the soldiers died now houses a small exhibition on the genocide.

Inema Art CenterGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0788653683; http://inemaartcenter.com; Kacyiru)F

Opened in 2012, the privately run Inema Art Center is a collective of 10 resident artists as well as invited others. It's quickly established itself as the foremost modern art gallery in Kigali. As well as paintings, sculptures and contemporary takes in traditional crafts there are dance and music performances and courses. Much of the art is for sale (and can be shipped internationally), but if you're not buying you're welcome just to admire.

Museum of Natural HistoryMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museum.gov.rw; off Ave de la Justice; adult/child/student incl guide RFr6000/3000/3000; h8am-6pm)

This small museum houses a few simple exhibits on Rwanda’s geology, fauna and flora. More interesting is the fact that this was the 1907 residence of explorer Richard Kandt and is reputed to be the first building in Kigali. The view from the garden is sensational, and looking over the urban sprawl, it’s hard to imagine that it all started with this rather modest home.

Few moto drivers have heard of the museum. Ask for Richard Kandt's house instead.

State House MuseumMUSEUM

(www.museum.gov.rw; Kanombe; adult/child/student incl guide RFr6000/3000/3000; h8am-6pm)

This former presidential palace on the eastern outskirts of the city is slowly being restored. It has few exhibits, but it’s interesting to explore, with ‘secret’ rooms and an odd presidential nightclub. Wreckage from Juvenal Habyarimana’s presidential plane can still be seen where it was shot down – just over his garden wall. The perpetrators were never caught, but this act proved to be a rallying call for Hutu extremists and helped trigger the genocide.

The museum is a short way east of the airport. To get here, catch a Kanombe-bound minibus to the military hospital, from where it’s a short walk.

Hotel des Mille CollinesSIGHT

(Hotel Rwanda; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788192530; www.millecollines.net; Ave de la République)

The inspiration for the film Hotel Rwanda, this luxury hotel was owned by the Belgian airline Sabena in 1994. At the time of the genocide, the hotel’s European managers were evacuated, and control of the Mille Collines was given to Paul Rusesabagina.

As the situation in Kigali reached its boiling point, Paul allowed fleeing Tutsis and moderate Hutus to take refuge in the hotel, bribing the Interahamwe with money and alcohol in exchange for food and water.

Paul, his family and a few lucky survivors were eventually evacuated in a UN convoy as the Interahamwe seized the hotel. Today, Paul lives in Brussels, is an outspoken humanitarian and has been involved in a public feud with Rwandan president Paul Kagame.

Nyanza Genocide MemorialMEMORIAL

(Kicukiro; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)F

Located in Kicukiro, a suburb southeast of the city centre towards the airport, this memorial has little to see other than the tiled tops of four mass graves believed to contain the remains of the 5000 Tutsis who took refuge in the Ecole Technique Officielle (ETO) grounds and numerous unmarked wooden crosses.

Following the assassination of 10 Belgian soldiers at Camp Kigali and the subsequent withdrawal of Belgian troops, the Tutsis here were left unprotected and ultimately taken to Nyanza and massacred. If arriving by moto-taxi (RFr1000 from town), tell the driver you’re heading to ‘urwibutso rwa Nyanza ya Kicukiro’.

DON'T MISS

NYAMATA & NTARAMA GENOCIDE MEMORIALS

During the genocide, victims fled to churches seeking refuge, only to find that some of the clergy was providing information to the Interahamwe. As a result of this lack of compassion, some of the most horrific massacres took place inside the sanctums of churches throughout Rwanda.

Both of these memorials can be visited on a day trip from Kigali. Sotra Tours runs buses every half-hour to Nyamata (RFr700, 45 minutes) from Kigali; the memorial is a 1km walk from the Nyamata bus station. Ntarama can easily be reached from Nyamata by moto-taxi (RFr1500). To return to Kigali, head back to the main road and catch a passing bus.

Nyamata ChurchCHURCH, MEMORIAL

(Nyamata; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-4pm Fri-Sun)F

Nyamata church, about 30km south of Kigali, is a deeply disturbing genocide memorial where some 50,000 people died. Today the skulls and bones of the many victims are on display. While the visual remains of the deceased are a visceral sight, their inclusion here is to provide firm evidence to would-be genocide deniers.

Ntarama ChurchCHURCH, MEMORIAL

(Ntarama; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-4pm Fri-Sun)F

Ntarama church, about 25km south of Kigali, has not been touched since the genocide ended and the bodies were removed. Today, there are many bits of clothing scraps still on the floor.

TTours

RDB City TourHISTORY

(Rwanda Development Board; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %252576514; www.rwandatourism.com; per person by bus/car US$20/40; hdeparts 8am or 2pm)

Requiring a minimum of two people, this three-hour tour includes the Kigali Memorial Centre, as well as a few other prominent buildings around town. It's not amazing value given the memorial currently has no entry charge, but the guides are very knowledgeable and can give a local's perspective on the capital.

Tours leave from the RDB office on the ground floor of the Grand Pension Plaza.

Nyamirambo Women's Centre ToursTOUR

(%0782111860; www.nwc-kigali.org; per person RFr15,000, lunch RFr3000)

The Nyamirambo Women's Centre (a local self-help group) runs fun and interesting 2½-hour tours of the lively Nyamirambo area of the city. Tours take in the local market, a hair salon, tailors and a music shop among others. The tour finishes with a local lunch. This is a good way to get an insider's view of a non-touristy side of the city.

Bizidanny Tours & SafarisTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788501461; www.bizidanny.com; Ave du Commerce)

This small operator runs individually customised tours throughout the country.

Primate SafarisSAFARIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %252-503428; www.primatesafaris.info; Ave de la Paix, Kigali)

Organises all-inclusive safaris to Rwandan and Ugandan national parks.

Volcanoes SafarisTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %252-502452; www.volcanoessafaris.com; Ave de la République, Hotel des Mille Collines)

Probably the most professional operator in Rwanda, Volcanoes Safaris runs customised trips and owns the exclusive Virunga Lodge in Volcanoes National Park..

4Sleeping

In the years since the genocide, Kigali has played host to legions of international aid workers, diplomats, bureaucrats, travellers and investors, and the city now has an array of good accommodation to suit all pockets.

City Centre

Hôtel IsimbiHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0786090557; hotelisimbi@hotmail.com; Rue de Kalisimbi; s/d US$40/45; W)

The most central of all the budget hotels, Isimbi is a good option for those who don’t fancy walking up and down Kigali’s endless hills. While the functional rooms here are somewhat lacking in atmosphere, they constitute a real bargain by Kigali standards. If given a choice, opt for any room other than those that face the noisy street.

Procure d'Accueil ReligieuxHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0252576334; off Blvd de l'OUA; s/d without bathroom RFr9000/12,000; p)

This small church-run lodging can be found tucked behind the St Famille Church next to the Gemera petrol station, in the heart of town. The rooms are very simple, but it's secure, quiet and fairly clean and as cheap as you'll get in central Kigali.

Auberge La CaverneHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785656343; aubecav@yahoo.fr; Blvd de Nyabugogo; s US$20-24, d/tw US$30/40)

This little hotel has just 15 basic but clean rooms of varying sizes and shapes arranged around a nondescript courtyard. The unifying factor between all is that they're rather grotty but quiet – thanks to their position away from the road.

Iris Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0728501181; www.irisguesthouse-rw.com; Rue Député Kamuzinzi; s/d/tw US$75/93/100; pW)

Very deservedly, this is one of the more popular midrange guesthouses in Kigali. It's well-run and has bright, airy and charmingly old-fashioned rooms and a pleasingly leafy little garden. Its popularity means it's well worth booking ahead. It's in an upscale neighbourhood a short moto ride or walk from the city centre.

Motel Le Garni du CentreBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %252572654; www.garnirwanda.com; Ave de la République; s/d US$145/180; paWs)

This intimate and atmospheric little auberge (inn) was the first boutique hotel in Kigali, and it's still about the best. Le Garni du Centre boasts individually decorated rooms with clean lines and African art arranged around an inviting swimming pool and gorgeous flower garden. The tariffs get cheaper with every night you stay.

It can organise safaris to Akagera National Park from US$210 per person (minimum two people) for a day trip.

Step Town MotelGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785005662; www.step-town.com; KN 1 Ave, Kiyovu; s/d US$50/55; pW)

Not far from the city centre, and down a quiet dusty lane (and a very steep hill!), this place, with its prim white rooms splashed in blue, is one of Kigali's better-value offerings. As well as decent rooms, there's a garden terrace with views and a small bar-restaurant.

Impala HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %250500226; Rue du Lac Nasho; s/d US$70/90; pW)

We like this place. It's smart and has its own unique sense of decoration, which includes theatre-red curtains and, mounted on one wall, a row of what we can only guess are alien heads. Aliens or not, the beds have good mattresses on them and the management cares.

Dream Apple HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0782793753; dreamapple333@yahoo.com; Blvd de Nyabugogo; d incl breakfast US$40-60; pW)

Despite the slightly odd name, the Dream Apple is a solid choice with massive rooms, garish bedspreads and a whole load of cleanliness. The choice rooms are the quieter ones at the back of the complex. A chilled restaurant and bar are next to the reception area.

Hotel GorillasHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %252501717; www.gorillashotels.com; Rue des Parcs; s/d from US$90/120; piW)

A slick little hotel in the upmarket Kiyovu area of the city, this place has won over a lot of customers thanks to its spacious rooms and friendly staff. The highlight of the property is Le Dos Argenté (mains RFr4200 to RFr7000), an open-air bistro serving an eclectic offering of Rwandan and Continental classics.

Hotel des Mille CollinesHISTORIC HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788192530; www.millecollines.net; Ave de la République; s/d from US$230/250; paWs)

Welcome to the real Hotel Rwanda. While a colonial South African hotel was used in the movie, the real deal is more of a cement-and-glass construction. The foyer and pool area are spacious and elegant, and although the rooms aren't wildly exciting, they are better value than most top-end places in the city centre.

Use of the hotel swimming pool costs a small fee for nonguests; it's a popular place to relax at weekends. There’s also a poolside bar, a tennis court and a business centre.

Kigali Serena HotelLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %252597100; www.serenahotels.com; Blvd de la Revolution; r from US$400; paWs)

The capital’s first and only five-star hotel, the Kigali Serena is as swish as you would expect and has a grand and stately style. As inviting as the rooms and restaurants are, we think the real selling point is the hotel's impressive pool complex.

AN UPHILL BATTLE

In Kigali it’s a sorry child indeed who’s given a bicycle as a gift. The city sprawls over several hills, and two points that appear relatively close on a map may be separated by a valley in reality. Our tip: unless you have the inclination of a goat and the thighs of a mountain gorilla, jump on the back of a moto-taxi (motorcycle taxi) and whiz to your destination in breezy comfort – just hang on tight during gear changes.

Outer Suburbs

oDiscover Rwanda Youth HostelHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782265679; www.discoverrwanda.hostel.com; Kacyiru; 4/6/8 bed dm US$19/16/15, tw without bathroom US$23, d US$50; piW)

Easily the most popular backpackers' in Kigali, this hostel offers a very sociable atmosphere, lots of fun events (live music, barbecues and acrobatic nights) and a certain amount of disorganisation. Accommodation is either in dorms with four to eight beds and shared bathrooms or private en-suite rooms.

It's a five-minute moto ride from the city centre (RFr400 to RFr500).

oGarr HotelGUESTHOUSE

(%0783831292; www.garrhotel.com; KG 9 Ave, Nyarutarama; s/d/tw/ste US$95/110/120/160; pWs)

Head and shoulders above much of the competition, this homely guesthouse has large and rather classically styled rooms with wood furnishings and quality beds. It's in a smart part of town (but it's a long way from the city centre), and there are a number of excellent places to eat within walking distance. The swimming pool is another nice touch.

5Eating

The dining scene in Kigali is increasingly sophisticated. There's some great local food available, and despite Rwanda's current dislike of all things French, it doesn't seem keen to let go of the Francophone love of food and food culture. All this means that eating in Kigali is generally far more rewarding than eating in any of the Anglophone East African countries.

oChez JohnRWANDAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue de Masaka; buffet RFr3500; hnoon-11pm)

A popular local haunt, Chez John serves up authentic, country-style Rwandan standards – namely meat and maize – in upmarket surrounds. The lunch buffet is extremely popular and offers a great opportunity to try a number of local dishes in one sitting. If you don’t like them here, it’s going to be a long trip around the rest of Rwanda.

Meze FreshMEXICAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; Kacyiru; mains RFr3400; h11am-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-8pm Sun)

A fun Tex-Mex place serving huge crispy tortilla and burritos stuffed with beef or chicken and a range of sides. It's hardly authentic Mexican but it's tasty, cheap, filling and a cool place to hang out over a few drinks.

Blues CaféAMERICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave de la Paix; light meals RFr3500-4000; h7am-8pm)

This American-style diner is great if you’re in the heart of town and just want something fast and fatty. Our cheeseburger had slabs of cheese on it so thick, forget clogging the arteries, it could have dammed the Nile. Salads, sandwiches, soups and spaghetti were also on the menu.

Bourbon Coffee ShopAMERICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave de la Paix, Union Trade Centre; mains RFr3500-5400; h7am-8pm; W)

Head to this popular Western-style coffee shop where locals and expats queue for oversized coffees, sandwiches, burgers and light meals.

oZenCHINESE

(%0733503503; www.zenkigali.com; Nyarutarama; mains RFr5000-8000; hnoon-3pm & 6-11.30pm)

With tinkling fountains and covered courtyard dining, this sublime restaurant offers Kigali's best Chinese meals as well as Rwanda's first sushi dishes. This is where the well-to-do of Kigali come when they want to impress. It's a long way out of the city centre in a swanky neighbourhood.

oKhana KhazanaINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788499600; www.khanakhazana.rw; Rue Député Kajangwe, Kiyovu; mains RFr4500-6000; hnoon-3.30pm & 6-10.30pm)

Statues of a rotund Ganesh and a blissed-out Shiva dot what many a local claim is the best Indian restaurant in Kigali. The menu has a long list of all the Indian classics prepared with panache and the waitstaff are dressed in imitation traditional Indian dress.

New CactusFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788678798; Rue Député Kayuku; mains around RFr6500; hnoon-2pm & 6-10.30pm; W)

This Mexican-style hacienda is set on a ridge where you can soak up the sparkling lights of Kigali by night or get a bird’s-eye appreciation of the city during the day. It boasts a broad menu of French favourites and, for something a little different, some delicious Congolese dishes full of spices and flavours.

Chez RobertRWANDAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; KN 30 St; lunch buffet Rfr6999, mains Rfr4500-6000; h7am-late)

This upmarket restaurant, which lives in a large, converted house with a shady terrace, offers the finest dining experience in the city centre. Lots of smoothly turned-out business types roll in at lunch time for the monster-sized buffet, which mixes Rwandan tastes with old-fashioned European dishes.

Heaven Restaurant & BarEUROPEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788486581; Rue du Mont Juru 7; mains RFr5000-9000; h5-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-10.30pm Sat & Sun)

A highlight of the Kigali restaurant scene, Heaven has a relaxed, open-air deck bistro with a wide-ranging menu drawing from a variety of international influences. Saturday night is 'open-mike' night when anyone who fancies themselves as a budding Mick Jagger can take to the stage and ruin their fellow diners' evening!

6Drinking & Nightlife

The good folk of Kigali take their drinking and partying pretty seriously, and there are a number of decent bars around town, some of which turn into clubs as the night wears on.

Hotel des Mille CollinesBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave de la République)

The swimming pool bar at the Hotel des Mille Collines serves as the city’s most popular daytime bar at weekends, with expats coming here to relax by the water and partake of the Sunday brunch. The Thursday happy hour (6pm to 7.30pm) is also extraordinarily popular with everybody who is anybody (although those bodies who are nobodies are just as welcome).

Planet ClubCLUB

(Ave du Lac Muhazi, Kigali Business Centre; admission RFr2000-2500; h6pm-late)

This trendy nightclub is often called KBC by locals due to its location in the Kigali Business Centre, well out of the city centre. Drinks are pricey, but from about 11pm onwards on a Friday and Saturday the place is jumping.

7Shopping

Rwanda produces some attractive handicrafts. Look for finely woven nyiramabuno (basketry), iayansi (flasks once used to store milk), batiks, drums and the striking symmetrical paintings called imigongo.

Sellers claim many items are ‘antiques’ and price their goods accordingly; the reality is most are 'antiques' made last week and you should bargain prices down to something more sensible.

CaplakiARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave de Kiyovu; h8am-6pm)

This association of 38 stalls has banded together to market itself as Caplaki, although each stall is an independent business. As you would expect, there is a great selection of Rwandan handicrafts on sale, but you’ll also find lots of carvings and masks from the DRC, banana-fibre products from Uganda, and items from Kenya.

CootracARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave de la Paix; h8am-7pm)

An association of 22 stalls selling handicrafts from Rwanda and the greater region can be found in this old warehouse almost right in the centre of the city.

8Information

Emergency

PolicePOLICE

(%112)

A 24-hour emergency number, but don't rely on anyone answering!

SAMU Ambulance ServiceMEDICAL

(%912)

Internet Access

Internet access is widespread and very cheap in Kigali. All but the cheapest hotels offer free wi-fi as do many of the more upmarket coffee shops and restaurants. The Rwandan government is halfway through implementing a plan to provide free wi-fi in all public spaces across the city (and eventually across the country).

Maps

Eye MagazineMAPS

A free tri-monthly magazine with several maps and a directory of businesses within the service industry.

Medical Services

Some embassies also have medical attachés who offer services through private practices.

Adventist Dental ClinicDENTIST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0788777720, 252582431; Blvd de l'Umuganda, Kacyiru)

About 3.5km from the centre of town in Kacyiru district, this place is run by an international dentist based in Kigali. If you can't find it, ask for the nearby Umubano Hotel.

King Faisal HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %252588888; www.kfh.rw)

This South African–operated hospital is the best in Kigali.

Money

Euros and US dollars can be changed at any of the numerous banks in town or at any of the foreign-exchange bureaus near the Bank of Kigali. Most exchange bureaus give better rates than the banks, although the one at the airport is an exception.There are ATMs at virtually every bank, but Bank of Kigali machines seem to be the least temperamental when it comes to accepting foreign Visa cards (trying to use MasterCard or American Express is a good way of making the ATM close itself down!).

Access BankBANK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2fl, Union Trade Centre, Ave de la Paix)

Over-the-counter cash advances on MasterCard.

Bank of KigaliBANK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du Commerce)

Has an ATM (Visa only), over-the-counter cash advances on MasterCard, and Western Union services.

EcobankBANK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave de la Paix)

Besides the ATM (Visa only) here, there’s also a machine at the airport.

Post

Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Blvd de Nyabugogo; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7am-1pm Sat)

Tourist Information

RDBTOURIST INFORMATION

(Rwanda Development Board; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %252576514; www.rwandatourism.com; ground fl, Grand Pension Plaza; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat & Sun)

RDB, the national tourism office, has friendly staff who help promote tourism to the increasing stream of foreign visitors. Independent travellers can make reservations to track the gorillas and golden monkeys at Volcanoes National Park as well as chimps at Nyungwe Forest National Park and various other activities. The office couldn't be more central.

8Getting There & Away

Air

International airlines fly in and out of Gregoire Kayibanda International Airport.

RwandAirAIRLINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788177000; www.rwandair.com; Ave de la Paix, Union Trade Centre)

Has domestic flights to Kamembe (from US$150 one-way).

Bus

Several bus companies operate services to major towns, which are less crowded and safer than local minibuses. The Nyabugogo bus terminal, about 2km north of the city centre, is a bustling place. The terminal is unusually well organised, with each bus company having a separate office and, in general, destinations and fares listed on the wall of each office. There are also surprisingly few touts in the station, and those that there are tend to be quite helpful. The station is easily reached by minibuses heading down Blvd de Nyabugogo. Buses usually depart from the office you bought your ticket at. Most bus services dry up around mid-afternoon.

CapitalBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

Half-hourly departures for Kibuye (RFr2600, 2½ hours) via Gitarama (RFr900, one hour).

Horizon ExpressBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

To Nyanza (RFr1700, 1¾ hours) and Huye (Butare; RFr2500, 2½ hours) every half-hour. Horizon operate some of the better buses.

ImpalaBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

Runs buses west to Kibuye (RFr2600, 2½ hours) and Cyangugu (RFr5200, six hours) roughly every 1½ hours from 5.30am to 3pm.

InternationalBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

Heads to the town of Gatuna, on the border with Uganda, every half-hour (RFr3500, 2½ hours).

Kigali Safaris BUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

To Musanze (Ruhengeri; RFr1700, two hours) every half-hour until 6.30pm.

OmegaBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

Hourly to Cyangugu (RFr5000, six hours).

Onatracom ExpressBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

Public-owned bus company with large, old and uncomfortable 45-seat buses running to Musanze (Ruhengeri; RFr1700, two hours) and Gisenyi (RFr3000, three hours), plus Huye (Butare; RFr2600, 2½ hours) and Cyangugu (RFr6000, six hours). Seeing as the prices are generally the same as the private bus companies or even more expensive, it's better to go private when you can.

Select ExpressBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

Buses to the Rwanda–Tanzania border crossing of Rusumo (RFr3000, three hours) every half-hour.

Sotra Tours BUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

To Nymata (RFr600, 45 minutes), Rusumo (RFr3000, three hours, every half-hour) and Huye (Butare; RFr2500, 2½ hours, every half-hour).

StellaBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

To Kayonza (RFr1400, 1½ hours) every half-hour.

Virunga ExpressBUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

Good buses to Musanze (Ruhengeri; RFr1700, two hours) and Gisenyi (RFr3000, three hours) every half-hour.

Volcano Express BUS

(Nyabugogo bus terminal)

Reliable operator for Huye (Butare; RFr2500, 2½ hours) and Nyanza (RFr1700, 1¾ hours) every half-hour.

Minibus

Local minibuses depart from the Nyabugogo bus terminal for towns all around Rwanda, including Huye (Butare; RFr2500, two hours), Katuna (RFr1500, 1½ hours), Kibuye (RFr3000, two hours), Musanze (Ruhengeri; RFr1700, two hours) and Gisenyi (RFr3000, four hours). These minibuses leave when full throughout the day, except at weekends when they tend to dry up after 3pm. Accepted practice for foreigners is to turn up, wander around for bit, eventually tell someone where you’re going and then be directed to the appropriate minibus.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Gregoire Kayibanda International Airport is at Kanombe, 10km east of the city centre. A taxi/moto-taxi costs RFr10,000/1500, but a KBS, International or Sotra Tours bus is cheaper (RFr250) and can be caught from outside the airport gates. In town you can catch one opposite the Bank of Kigali.

Minibus

Minibuses cruise the streets looking for passengers. All advertise their destination in the front window and run to districts throughout the city. They charge a set price of RFr200.

Moto-Taxi

These small Japanese trail bikes can be a swift way to get around Kigali, although it can be quite scary as the drivers really hit the throttle. Short hops are just RFr300 to RFr500, while trips out to the suburbs cost RFr700 to RFr1000.

Taxi

Taxis are not metered but a fare within the city centre costs, on average, RFr3000 to RFr4000, double that out to the suburbs or later at night.

Northwestern Rwanda

A formidable natural border between Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC; formerly Zaïre), the Virunga volcanoes are where Rwanda really earns its nickname as the `Land of a Thousand Hills'. Home to the mighty mountain gorillas, the Rwandan Virungas are protected by Volcanoes National Park, the undisputed highlight of the country. The region is also home to the tranquil town of Gisenyi on the sandy shores of Lake Kivu, Rwanda’s top spot for a ‘beach’ holiday.

Musanze (Ruhengeri)

Pop 115,000

For most travellers, Musanze (Ruhengeri) is the preferred staging post on their way to the magnificent Volcanoes National Park, one of the best places in East Africa to track the mountain gorilla. Since permit holders are required to check in at the park headquarters in nearby Kinigi at 7am on the day of tracking, staying in Musanze is a much safer option than leaving from Kigali at the crack of dawn.

Musanze is a pleasant enough town to explore on foot, and it’s situated near a number of interesting natural sights, with the massive Virunga volcanoes looming to the north and west.

Musanze (Ruhengeri)

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Amahoro ToursE4

4Sleeping

2Amahoro GuesthouseE2

3Garden HouseA1

4Gorillas Volcanoes HotelA1

5Home InnA2

5Eating

10Shakey's Cafe-RestaurantF4

11Volcana LoungeB2

Transport

12Baby CoachE4

13Bus StationE4

14HorizonF4

Jaguar CoachesE4

Kigali SafarisE4

Virunga ExpressE4

1Sights & Activities

The outskirts of Musanze are home to Lake Ruhondo and Lake Burera, two large lakes dotted with small villages and accessed via a network of undeveloped dirt roads. The scenery here is breathtaking as the shores of the lakes are heavily terraced and cultivated with crops, and the Virunga volcanoes loom ominously in the distance.

While Ruhondo and Burera are not officially set up for tourism, you can easily have DIY adventure here, especially if you have your own transport and are able to arrange a lake trip with a local fisherman.

Musanze CaveCAVE

(admission US$50)

These huge caves, 2km from the town centre along the road to Gisenyi (and also accessible from the road to Kinigi), were created when different lava flows joined to create the Albertine Rift Valley. Bat roosts are a significant feature of the caves, as are huge roof collapses that create vast arrays of coloured light shafts.

Unfortunately, few people visit the cave due to the high entry price and the fact that you can't currently buy the entry ticket from the RDB office in Musanze. Instead you have to go all the way to the RDB office just beyond Kinigi (an arrangement that might change in the near future).

DON'T MISS

CULTURAL ACTIVITIES

Nkotsi VillageVILLAGE

(Red Rocks, Nkotsi/Muko Village)

Nkotsi village (also known as Muko) is a small village 7km southwest of Musanze. It's home to the Red Rocks campsite and hostel, which, through the Hands of Hope organisation and Amahoro Tours, organises a lively and interesting package of cultural activities open to all. These range from basket-weaving demonstrations (free) to learning how to brew (and yeah, OK; drink) banana beer (US$25). Other activities include village walks (US$10), bee-keeping (US$30) and learning about traditional medicine (US$30).

It's best to arrange all activities in advance through either Red Rocks or Amahoro Tours.

TTours

Most tour operators who visit Muzanse and Volcanoes National Park are based in Kigali.

Amahoro ToursTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788655223; www.amahoro-tours.com)

A small, locally run operator that can help arrange gorilla-tracking permits, cultural activities and homestays in the surrounding area at reasonable prices. The office is unsigned and down a small dirt alleyway next to the brick ‘COODAF’ building, behind the bus station. It's signed as Greenhill Camping Site (though there's actually no campsite here).

4Sleeping

As the main jumping-off point for Volcanoes National Park, there are a number of decent accommodation options in Musanze.

Town Centre

Hotel MuhaburaHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788364774; www.muhaburahotel.com; Ave du 5 Juillet; s/d from RFr30,000/35,000; pW)

Long-time favourite Muhabura was once the town’s leading hotel, and although it has been superseded by a whole slew of midrange options, it straddles the niche between midrange and budget options nicely and retains a pleasent old-fashioned feel.

Ste Anne HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785450505; www.sainteannehotel.com; off Ave du 5 Juillet; s/d/tw RFr25,000/30,000/40,000; p)

These rooms may be a step down in quality from other budget options, but they’re a good choice if you want to save some money without scraping the bottom of the barrel. You still get satellite TV and a clean bathroom; it’s all just a little tired. Prices are negotiable if you don’t take the breakfast.

Amahoro GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788655223; www.amahoro-guesthouse.com; dm US$25, s/d US$30/50; p)

A little difficult to find as it doesn’t have a sign, Amahoro Guesthouse is tucked behind a green gate in a house with a green roof. The rooms are painted in bright, noisy primary colours, and there's a fresh, young feel to the place. Most rooms have several beds in them and share a common bathroom.

Red RocksHOSTEL

(%0789254315; www.redrocks-rwanda.com; Nkotsi/Muko village; camping US$9, s/d without bathroom US$20/30; pW)

Rather gloomy and very basic rooms that on their own wouldn't be worth mentioning. However, this place wins big points for its relaxed vibe and easy social scene. It also organises an array of interesting cultural activities.

It's 7km south of town on the road to Gitarama (Muhanga) and a RFr3000/600 taxi/moto ride.

New Silver HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783565900; s/d/tw RFr15,000/20,000/30,000; W)

A reasonable-value local hotel with big rooms – even the singles are unusually well proportioned – that are well maintained. Try to snag one overlooking the neighbouring garden restaurant rather than the busy, noisy road.

oGarden HouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0788405760, 0788427200; emgardner1@yahoo.co.u; Rue de la Coopération 53; s/d RFr35,000/45,000; pW)

This English-Rwandan-run guesthouse in a beautifully converted villa has five cute, artistically decorated white-washed rooms with double glass doors giving views of the large, leafy gardens. The hosts are helpful, the dogs friendly and the breakfast, which consists of home-made breads, jams and local honey, is as good as you'll get anywhere in Rwanda.

There's no sign board: just look for the big double gates.

Home InnHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784141000; www.homeinnhotel.com; Ave de la Paix; d/tw/apt US$70/90/110; pW)

Painted an alarming shade of apricot, the Home Inn has fresh and bright rooms with 'gorgeously' garish bedspreads. The tiled bathrooms are spotless and each room has its own balcony that catches a refreshing breeze. Peaceful location.

Gorillas Volcanoes HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %252546700; www.gorillashotels.com; Ave de la Paix; s/d US$90/110; pWs)

Part of the Gorilla group and one of the smartest hotels in Musanze town, this establishment caters mostly to package tours. Facilities include a restaurant-cum-bar, a massage/sauna room and a swimming pool. Some rooms catch a bit of road noise.

Lakes Ruhondo & Burera

Virunga LodgeLODGE

(%252502452; www.volcanoessafaris.com; s/d full board US$840/1400; pW)

One of the most stunningly situated camps in the region, the Virunga Lodge, nestled on a ridge above Lake Burera, offers incredible views across to the Virunga volcanoes, and is one of the finest lodges in Rwanda. Accommodation is in stone chalets decorated with local crafts and hardwood furnishings, though this place is definitely more about eco-atmosphere than opulent luxury.

5Eating & Drinking

Musanze is one of the few towns outside Kigali that has independent restaurants that might tempt you away from your hotel restaurant at night. There are also a number of cheap 'local' restaurants that serve brilliant value, very tasty buffets at lunchtime. Of the hotel restaurants, our favourite is the one found at Hotel Muhabura. It has a nice atmosphere, though its food (steaks, brochettes, pasta and salad) is only marginally better than the food served elsewhere.

An interesting alternative and a memorable night out are the ‘storytelling’ meals organised by Amahoro Tours. The idea is to bring together inquisitive tourists and community members who can exchange ideas and questions over the course of a local meal. The cost is US$30 per person, excluding the actual cost of the meal.

Shakey's Cafe-RestaurantRWANDAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave de 5 Juillet; buffet from RFr1000; h7am-8pm)

Currently this is every local's favourite place for a huge, varied buffet lunch of vegetables, plantains, peanut sauce and chicken or beef.

oVolcana LoungeITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 5 Juillet; mains RFr6500; h11am-until last customer leaves)

With a roaring wood fire in the corner, a cool soundtrack (most of the time anyway!) and a laid-back feel, this is one of the nicer places at which to eat, and linger, in town. The menu consists primarily of Rwandan versions of pizzas and pasta, but for once the impression isn't bad at all.

Italian RestobarITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Muhabura; mains RFr4500-6500; hnoon-3pm & 6-8.30pm Mon-Sat)

Run by an Italian, this tiny place is a real find in central Musanze. All the dishes are freshly made to order, and if you're wondering why the menu is so limited, it's because the chef-owner prefers to create only what he knows he can really cook. There is talk of the restaurant upping sticks and moving out toward the bigger tourist hotels just to the west of the town centre.

8Information

Bank of KigaliBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 5 Juillet)

Has an ATM (Visa) and can exchange US dollars and euros.

EcobankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; off Ave du 5 Juillet)

Has an ATM (Visa) and can exchange US dollars and euros.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri)

Basic telephone and postal services.

RDBTOURIST INFORMATION

(Rwanda Development Board; GOOGLE MAP ; %0788519727; www.rwandatourism.com; Ave du 5 Juillet; h8am-5pm)

Located in the prefecture headquarters, this RDB office is a small administrative branch. If you already have a gorilla permit, there’s no reason to stop by here. Although staff are happy to offer advice about any RDB-organised activity, they couldn't issue permits or tickets at the time of research. They will, however, phone the Kigali or Kinigi office to see if gorilla permits or others are available.

There is talk of this office being able to issue tickets and permits shortly.

8Getting There & Away

Numerous bus companies offer scheduled hourly services between Musanze and Kigali (RFr1700, two hours) and between Musanze and Gisenyi (RFr1100, 1½ hours). The three most reliable are Kigali Safaris ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Horizon and Virunga Express ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue du Commerce). The town's best station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue du Commerce) is home to most bus offices and sits at the end of Rue du Commerce.

Minibuses also travel these routes for much the same price, but they stop frequently to let passengers on and off, fill up with petrol and buy bananas.

Virunga Express (and an armada of minibuses) also travels to Cyanika (RFr400, 45 minutes), on the Rwanda–Uganda border. Several companies go direct to Kampala.

Baby CoachBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Muhabura)

Buses to Kampala at 8am, 9am and 3pm (RFr8000, 11 hours).

HorizonBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Muhabura)

A 3pm bus to Kampala (US$20, 11 hours).

Jaguar CoachesBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue du Commerce)

A 4.30pm service to Kampala (RFr12,000, 11 hours).

8Getting Around

There are few taxis in Musanze, but plenty of bicycle taxis and moto-taxis for those needing a rest. A typical fare from the town centre to the Hotel Muhabura is around RFr300 on a moto-taxi.

Volcanoes National Park

Volcanoes National Park , which runs along the border with the DRC and Uganda, is home to the Rwandan section of the Virungas. Comprising five volcanoes – Karisimbi (the highest at 4507m), Bisoke (Visoke), Sabinyo, Gahinga (Mgahinga) and Muhabura (Muhavura) – the Virungas are utterly spellbinding and few would argue that this is not one of the most exciting national parks in Africa. We probably needn't remind you, but of all the extraordinary sights and attractions around the Virungas the one that really draws people here are the mountain gorillas, which were first studied in depth by primatologist George Schaller, and later thrust into the international spotlight during the life of Dian Fossey.

While most tourists to the park are understandably driven by the desire to have a face-to-face encounter with real gorillas in the mist, there is good reason to stay in the area once you’ve finished tracking: the gorillas share the park with rare golden monkeys, a troop of which has also been habituated to human contact. The Virungas, which tower over Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC, also present a variety of rewarding climbing and trekking options. To get the most from the Virungas give yourself as much time as you possibly can. This is absolutely a park that rewards those who linger.

History

Belgian colonists, who intended to protect the mountain gorillas on Karisimbi, Bisoke and Mikeno in Rwanda and the Belgian Congo from poachers, first gazetted the Virungas as a national park in 1925. This small conservation triangle was the first protected area to be created on the continent of Africa. Four years later, the borders were extended further to form Parc National Albert (Albert National Park), a massive area that encompassed more than 8000 sq km.

Following the independence of the Congo in 1960 and Rwanda in 1962, Albert National Park was split into two entities, the Rwanda portion being assigned the name Parc National des Volcans. During the early years of Rwanda’s fragile independence, it wasn’t poaching or fighting that harmed the gorillas most, but rather a small daisy-like flower known as pyrethrum. Due to a large grant by the European Community (EC), the 1960s saw the conversion of half of Parc National des Volcans into commercial farms for pyrethrum, which can be processed into a natural insecticide.

By the early 1970s, poachers were making inroads on both sides of the Rwanda–DRC border as the demand for stuffed gorilla heads and hands (which were, depressingly, used as ashtrays) began to burgeon. Thankfully, the plight of the mountain gorilla became an international issue following the work of the late Dian Fossey.

Gorilla tracking in Rwanda was first launched in 1979 by Amy Vedder and Bill Webber, who marketed the charismatic creatures to tourists on overland trips. By the late 1980s, the sale of gorilla permits was the country’s third-largest revenue earner, which was enough to convince ordinary Rwandans that these great apes were indeed a valuable natural resource worth protecting.

In 1991, Rwanda was plunged into civil war, and Parc National des Volcans became a battlefield. By the time the perpetrators of the genocide swept across Rwanda in 1994, the park had long been heavily land-mined and then abandoned as refugees fled into the neighbouring DRC. When the dust from the conflict settled, many observors were surprised to discover that the gorillas had weathered the violence remarkably well. However, it wasn’t until 1999 that Parc National des Volcans was reopened to tourism. Since then tourism has boomed and gorilla tracking has once again become one of Rwanda's biggest earners. When the country changed one of its official languages from French to English in 2008, the park's name changed to Volcanoes National Park.

VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Five bamboo- and rainforest-covered volcanoes that are sanctuaries to rare mountain gorillas and endangered golden monkeys.

When to Go

The long dry season from June to September is the ideal time to track mountain gorillas as it is, well…drier.

Practicalities

Reservations for gorilla tracking are sold out months in advance in high season, so make your booking as early as possible. Access to the park is via Musanze (Ruhengeri), although all trekkers need to report to the park headquarters in Kinigi (12km north of Musanze) at 7am on the day of their trek. The park does not provide transport to the trailheads.

Budget Tips

Put simply, there's no cheap way to go and see the mountain gorillas. You can, however, have other equally memorable and much more adventurous experiences in the park for a more reasonable budget. Try trekking up some of the volcanoes and, to keep costs lower, stay in a guesthouse near Kinigi village and take a moto-taxi to trailheads.

1Sights & Activities

Gorilla Tracking

An up-close encounter with the charismatic mountain gorillas while gorilla tracking (US$750 per person) is the highlight of a trip to Africa for many visitors. An encounter with a silverback male gorilla at close quarters can be a hair-raising experience, especially if you’ve only ever seen large wild animals behind the bars of a cage or from the safety of a car. Yet despite their intimidating size, gorillas are remarkably nonaggressive animals, entirely vegetarian and usually quite safe to be around.

Gorilla Families

There are 10 habituated gorilla groups (excluding those groups set aside solely for research purposes, which tourists are not allowed to visit) in Volcanoes National Park, including the Susa group, which has around 28 members and a set of twins born in 2011. Although nearly everyone who shows up at the park headquarters is probably hoping to track the Susa group, the rangers usually select only the most able-bodied and all-round fit visitors. Even though the Susa group is the largest in the park, it’s also the hardest to reach – you need to trek for three to four hours up the slopes of Karisimbi at an altitude of more than 3000m.

The Sabinyo group (eight members) is a good choice for anyone who doesn’t want a strenuous tracking experience, as it can usually be found in less than 30 minutes. The Agashya (23 members) and Amahura (18 members) groups are also popular with visitors, although no matter which group you end up tracking, you’re most likely going to have a memorable experience.

The Trek

How hard is the trek to reach the gorillas? This is a question every other visitor seems to ask. It's a difficult question to answer, as it depends on which group of gorillas you go and see – some journeys are just a short stroll but others a half-day slog. You will most likely spend several hours scrambling through dense vegetation up steep, muddy hillsides, sometimes to altitudes of more than 3000m. At this altitude you will certainly be a little breathless, but someone of good fitness who does a reasonable amount of walking is unlikely to find the walk all that tough. If you're not used to walking though it might be a very different story and you should request a group closer to the trailheads. At higher altitudes, you’ll also have to contend with the thick overgrowth of stinging nettles, which can easily penetrate light clothing. As if fiery skin rashes weren’t enough of a deterrent, it also rains a lot in this area and can get very cold. Oh, and when people say it gets muddy what they mean is it can get MUDDY. Children (and Lonely Planet authors) would have the time of their lives rolling about in this stuff.

The Encounter

Visits to the gorillas are restricted to one hour, and flash photography is banned. While you are visiting the gorillas, do not eat, drink, smoke or go to the bathroom in their presence. If you have any potential airborne illness, do not go tracking as gorillas are extremely susceptible to human diseases.

In theory, visitors are requested to remain more than 5m from the gorillas at all times, though in practice the guides (and the gorillas) tend to flout this rule. Although no tourists have ever been harmed by the gorillas, you should give them the respect and wide berth you would any wild animal.

Reservations

The hefty US$750 fee includes park entry, compulsory guides and guards. The number of people allowed to visit each of the groups is limited to a maximum of eight people per day, limiting the total number of daily permits to an absolute maximum of 80. Children under 15 are not allowed to visit the gorillas.

Bookings for gorilla permits can be made through the RDB tourist office in Kigali or a Rwandan tour company. Those visiting on a tour package will have everything arranged for them, while independent travellers can secure permits if they make reservations early on. Frustratingly, it’s not always easy to deal with the RDB by phone or email from overseas, so it’s sometimes easier to book a permit through a Rwandan tour operator (although you will of course have to pay a small surcharge if doing it this way).

With demand often exceeding supply, you’ll need to book well in advance if you want to be assured of a spot, especially during the peak seasons of December–January and July–August. Bookings made direct through RDB are secured with a US$100 deposit (via bank transfer), and full payment must be made upon your arrival in Kigali.

Independent travellers who have only decided to visit the gorillas in Rwanda once in the East Africa region can turn up at the RDB office in Kigali and try to secure a booking at the earliest available date. During the high season waits of several days to more than a week are not uncommon.

You’ll need to present yourself at 7am on the day that your permit is valid at the park headquarters 3km from Kinigi. It’s worth emphasising that if you are late, your designated slot will be forfeited, and your money will not be refunded.

Clothing & Equipment

You need to be prepared for a potentially long, wet and cold trek through rainforest. A pair of hiking shoes is a must, as is warm and waterproof clothing. The stinging nettles at higher elevations can really put a damper on the experience, so consider wearing trousers and long-sleeve shirts with a bit of thickness.

Despite the high altitudes and potentially cold temperatures, you also need to be prepared for the strong sun. Floppy hats, bandanas, sunglasses and lots of sunscreen are a good idea, as are plenty of cold water and hydrating fluids. Sugary snacks are also good for a quick energy boost.

When you check in at the park headquarters, you may be asked for identification by the park rangers. To avoid any potential hassles, carry your passport with you at all times in addition to your gorilla-tracking permit.

Porters (US$10) are available for the trek, though they’re not absolutely necessary unless you're carrying a lot of gear. The guides, guards, drivers and any porters will expect a tip – the amount is up to you, and ultimately depends on the quality of the service. However, keep in mind that the locals know you’re paying US$750 for the privilege of gorilla tracking, so try not to be too stingy.

Golden Monkey Tracking

Golden monkey tracking (US$100 per person) is a relative newcomer on the wildlife scene of East Africa, but is rapidly rising in popularity. More like chimp-viewing than a gorilla encounter, these beautiful and active monkeys bound about the branches of bigger trees. If you’re looking for a reason to spend an extra day in the park, don’t miss the chance to track these rare animals.

Golden monkeys, which are a subspecies of the wider-spread blue monkey, are endemic to the Albertine Rift Valley and are distinguished by their gold body colouration, which contrasts sharply with black patches on their extremities. Classified as an endangered species, golden monkeys can only be seen in the Virungas, as deforestation and population growth in the Great Lakes region has greatly affected their home range.

Permits to track the golden monkeys are easy to get hold of – simply enquire at the RDB office in Kigali or Musanze, or at the park headquarters in Kinigi. As with the gorillas, your time with the monkeys is limited to one hour. But unlike the gorillas, children are allowed to take part (permit price is the same as for adults).

Trekking the Volcanoes

Dian Fossey once declared: ‘In the heart of Central Africa, so high up that you shiver more than you sweat, are great, old volcanoes towering up almost 15,000ft, and nearly covered with rich, green rainforest – the Virungas.’

Indeed, these stunning volcanoes serve as an evocative backdrop for a guided climb or trek. As you make your way along the ascents, you’ll pass through some remarkable changes of vegetation, ranging from thick forests of bamboo and giant lobelia or hagenia to alpine meadows. And there’s further rewards in store: if the weather is favourable, you can enjoy spectacular views over the mountain chain.

There are several possibilities for climbing up to the summits of one or more of the volcanoes in the park, with treks ranging in length from several hours to two days. A guide is compulsory and is included in your trekking fee; additional porters are optional (US$20 per day). Note that it is forbidden to cut down trees or otherwise damage vegetation in the park, and you are only allowed to make fires in the designated camping areas.

One of the best parts of climbing and trekking the volcanoes is that you will be awarded ample opportunities to view wildlife (sans gorillas and golden monkeys, of course). The most common herbivores in the park are bushbucks and black-fronted duikers; buffaloes, bush pigs and giant forest hogs are infrequently spotted. Also, be sure to inspect the hollows of trees for hyraxes, genets, dormice, squirrels and forest pouched rats. The richest birdwatching zone is in the hagenia forests, where you can expect to see turaco, francolins, sunbirds, waxbills, crimson-wings and various hawks and buzzards.

Karisimbi

Climbing Karisimbi (4507m), the highest summit in the Virungas, takes two long and taxing days. The track follows the saddle between Bisoke and Karisimbi, and then ascends the northwestern flank of the latter. Some five hours after beginning the trek, there is a metal shelter under which you can pitch your tent. The rocky and sometimes snow-covered summit is a further two to four hours walk through alpine vegetation.

To do this trek, take plenty of warm clothing, your own food, a sturdy tent (these can be rented from the park office for US$20) and a very good sleeping bag. It gets very cold, especially at the metal shelter, which is on a bleak shoulder of the mountain at 3660m. The wind whips through here, frequently with fog, so there is little warmth from the sun.

The two-day climb up Karisimbi costs US$400 for a solo climber or US$300 per person for groups of two or more, including park fees and a guide.

Bisoke

The most popular hike is the return trip up Bisoke (3711m), which takes six to seven hours from the parking lot at Bisoke. The ascent takes you up the steep southwestern flanks of the volcano to the summit, where you can see the crater lake. The descent follows a track on the northwestern side, from where there are magnificent views. This climb costs US$75 per person, including park fees and a guide.

Dian Fossey’s Grave

A popular trek is to the site of the former Karisoke Research Center, where Dian Fossey is buried alongside many of her primate subjects, including the famous Digit. From the park headquarters it’s about a 30-minute drive to the trailhead, followed by a two- to three-hour hike to the ruins of the camp. This excursion costs US$75 per person, including park fees and a guide (though you are responsible for your own transport to/from the trailhead).

Ngezi

The return walk to Ngezi (about 3000m) takes three to four hours from the parking lot at Bisoke. This is one of the easiest of the treks, and at the right time of the day it is possible to see a variety of animals coming down from the hills to drink at streams and springs. This trek is slightly cheaper than the others at US$55 per person including a guide.

Gahinga & Muhabura

Climbing Gahinga (3474m; in Uganda) and Muhabura (4127m) is a two-day trip from Gasiza (US$200 per person including guide). The summit of the first volcano is reached after a climb of about four hours along a track that passes through a swampy saddle between the two mountains. The trip to the summit of Muhabura takes about four hours from the saddle. It is also possible to climb these volcanoes separately. The trekking fee is US$100 for Muhabura and US$75 for Gahinga, including a guide.

DON'T MISS

CULTURE IN THE MOUNTAINS

oIby'Iwacu Cultural VillageVILLAGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0788374545, 0788451289; www.rwandaecotours.com; per person US$20; c)S

Yes, it might be a bit fake, but while most of the focus of Volcanoes National Park falls squarely onto the animals, this 'cultural village' puts the spotlight back onto the people. And, despite the stage-managed atmosphere, it's a fun experience all round. Visitors get to experience Rwandan village life by grinding seeds, firing bows and arrows, taking part in a traditional intore dance and even partaking in the marriage of a King to his Queen.

Children will love it, adults will learn from it, and the money goes straight to the local communities. It's a brilliant complement to a morning with the gorillas. The village is located close to the parking for the Sabyinyo gorilla group. Call at least an hour ahead of your intended visit. You can also stay the night here.

THE LIFE OF DIAN FOSSEY

`When you realise the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate more on the preservation of the future.'

Dr Dian Fossey, zoologist (1932–85)

Dian Fossey was an American zoologist who spent the better part of her life at a remote camp high up on the slopes of the Virungas studying the mountain gorillas. Without her tenacious efforts to have poaching stamped out, and the work of committed locals since her violent murder, there possibly wouldn’t be any of the great apes remaining in Rwanda.

Although trained in occupational therapy, in 1963 Fossey took out a loan and travelled to Tanzania where she met Dr Louis and Mary Leakey. At the time, she learned about the pioneering work of Jane Goodall with chimpanzees and George Schaller’s groundbreaking studies on gorillas.

By 1966 Fossey had secured the funding and support of the Leakey family, and began conducting field research of her own. However, political unrest caused her to abandon her efforts the following year at Kabara (in the Democratic Republic of the Congo), and establish the Karisoke Research Center, a remote camp on Bisoke in the more politically stable Rwandan Virungas.

Fossey was catapulted to international stardom when her photograph was snapped by Bob Campbell in 1970 and splashed across the cover of National Geographic. Seizing her newfound celebrity status, Fossey embarked on a massive publicity campaign aimed at saving the mountain gorillas from impending extinction.

Tragically, Fossey was murdered on 26 December 1985. Her skull was split open by a panga, a type of machete used by local poachers to cut the heads and hands off gorillas. This bloody crime scene caused the media to speculate that poachers, who were angered by her conservationist stance, murdered her.

While this may have been the case, a good measure of mystery still surrounds Fossey’s murder and despite the 1986 conviction of a former student, many people believe the murderer’s true identity was never credibly established and her former student was merely a convenient scapegoat.

Following her death, Fossey was buried in the Virungas next to her favourite gorilla, Digit, who had previously been killed by poachers. Throughout her life Dian Fossey was a proponent of ‘active conservation’, the belief that endangered species are best protected through rigorous anti-poaching measures and habitat protection. As a result, she strongly opposed the promotion of tourism in the Virunga range, though the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International has changed its position on the issue since her untimely death.

Today, Fossey is best known for her book Gorillas in the Mist, which is both a description of her scientific research and an insightful memoir detailing her time in Rwanda.

Parts of her life story were later adapted in the film Gorillas in the Mist: The Story of Dian Fossey, starring Sigourney Weaver. The movie was criticised for several fictitious scenes in which Fossey aggressively harasses local poachers, as well as its stylised portrayal of her affair with photographer Bob Campbell.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a number of places to stay on the edge of the park, although you will still need your own transport to get to park trailheads and the like.

Kinigi GuesthouseHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0788533606; kinigi2020@yahoo.fr; s/d from RFr20,000/25,000; pW)S

This locally run guesthouse, located within walking distance of the park headquarters, is a good bet. Accommodation is in a small clutch of wooden bungalows that are set in lush gardens with views of the towering Virungas.

All profits from the lodge are ploughed back into the Association de Solidarité des Femmes Rwandaises, which assists vulnerable Rwandan women of all backgrounds and ages.

La Paillotte Gorilla PlaceHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783398944; www.lapaillottegorillaplace.com; r RFr15,000-25,000; p)

Right in Kinigi village, not far from the market and bus stand, this small hotel offers exceptional value for money. Rooms come in two categories, with the pricier ones having stone floors with bamboo matting, good bathrooms, pot plants and desks. Cheaper rooms lack the arty touches but are polished white and very comfortable. The attached restaurant with its wood burner for frigid nights is a relaxed place to eat.

oIby'Iwacu Cultural VillageHUTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0788451289, 0788374545; www.rwandaecotour.com; per adult/child half-board US$75/60)S

This re-creation of a traditional village is one of the most novel places to stay in Rwanda. Although its main purpose is to provide a 'cultural experience', you can also stay the night, and that's when things get interesting. Guests sleep in one of the cosy huts and are entertained long into the evening by local villagers.

All up, it's a great way of forming fast friends with locals and learning a bit about their lives – and if you have children with you, this is likely to be the highlight of their Rwandan adventure. You should reserve in advance.

oSabyinyo Silverback LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.governorscamp.com; s/d full board US$1038/1686; pW)S

With space for a maximum of only 20 people, this is a place where guests are treated as friends of the management, which results in a highly personalised level of service. Accommodation is in Venetian plaster cottages with Rwandese-style terracotta-tile roofs, spacious sitting areas, individual fireplaces, stylish en suite bathrooms and sheltered verandahs.

The Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge is a joint partnership between the Sabyinyo Community Lodge Association (SACOLA) and the exclusive Governors’ Camp. SACOLA gets US$70 per bed per night in addition to a percentage of all profits. To date, these revenues have been used to implement several community projects, including the erection of a 74km fence to protect local crops from hungry buffalo.

Mountain Gorilla View LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0788305708; www.3bhotels.com; s/d full board from US$240/300; pW)

These 30 rock cottages set in lush, grassy grounds and with impressive views down the volcano range are more functional than comfortable. A cultural show featuring traditional dancers is held here at 4.30pm every evening during the high season.

KWITA IZINA: THE GORILLA NAMING CEREMONY

In traditional Rwandan culture, the birth of a child is a momentous event that is celebrated with a tremendous amount of fanfare. The birth is marked by the presentation of the new infant to the general public, who then proceed to suggest round after round of possible names. After careful consideration, the proud parents select one for their newborn, and celebrate the naming with copious amounts of dining, drinking and dancing.

Gorillas in Rwanda are often awarded the same level of respect and admiration as humans, which is why it’s fitting they should be named in a similar manner. Since 2005, the annual Kwita Izina (Gorilla Naming Ceremony; late June-early July) has been a countrywide event that is increasingly drawing a larger share of the spotlight. From local community events in Musanze (Ruhengeri) to gala balls in Kigali and Gisenyi, Kwita Izina is well on its way to becoming a global brand.

The event has even attracted a number of celebrities and conservationists, which is testament to the growing appeal of the event and the future potential for Rwandan tourism. For more information on Kwita Izina, check out the official website: www.kwitizina.org.

8Information

Volcanoes National Park HeadquartersPARK

(RDB; %0788771633; h6am-4pm)

You are required to register at this office, 3km east of the village of Kinigi, at 7am on the day of your scheduled gorilla tracking. If you are late, your designated slot will be forfeited. This is also the place to arrange permits for golden-monkey tracking, as well as climbs and treks in the Virunga volcanoes.

8Getting There & Away

The main access point for Volcanoes National Park is the nearby town of Musanze (Ruhengeri).

The park headquarters is located near the village of Kinigi, approximately 12km north of Musanze. The condition of this road has been greatly improved over recent years and Virunga District Service runs buses every 30 minutes between Musanze and Kinigi (first departure 6am, RFr350, 35 minutes). From Kinigi it’s a further 3km to the park headquarters (RFr700 to RFr1000 by moto-taxi).

It’s also necessary to arrange transport from the park headquarters to the point where you start climbing up to where the gorillas are situated. Some solo travellers opt to hitch a ride with other tourists going to see the same gorilla group as them, although this may be seen as freeloading and even if you offer to contribute your share towards the vehicle there’s always the chance you’ll be refused, which would mean you not being able to get to the trek start point and therefore wasting the money you spent on the gorilla permit – false economy all round!

If you want the assurance of your own wheels and the peace of mind of knowing that you’ll meet the critical 7am meeting time, the best option is to join a group in Musanze. Ask around at Amahoro Tours or Hotel Muhabura. The cost of hiring a vehicle and driver is US$80 at either of these places.