6

desserts

For many years, the only dishes on the American table that contained coconut were desserts, and with good reason. Coconut’s naturally sweet taste enhances baked goods and pies without being overwhelming. Even in those international cuisines where coconut is used as a staple ingredient for savory as well as sweet dishes, the repertoire of coconut-based desserts is astonishing. As such, you’ll find a prodigious number of coconut dessert recipes in this book — practically enough to be a book on its own! Those readers familiar with coconut in cakes and pies will be most accustomed to seeing flaked and sweetened coconut, but in this section you’ll find the fruit makes an appearance in all its forms, from milk to cream, manna, molasses, and oil.

Toolum

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes about 18 pieces

Toolum is an old-school Trinidadian molasses candy. It is like a soft caramel, but with a more intense flavor thanks to the molasses. Its other main ingredients are coconut, dried orange peel (available in Middle Eastern markets, gourmet markets, and online), and ginger. A word of caution: the caramelized sugar in this recipe is extremely hot. Do not attempt to touch it with anything but your wooden spoon!

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the brown sugar and water in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Mix and allow the sugar to melt and bubble until it reaches a deep reddish-brown color, 8 to 10 minutes.
  2. 2. Add the coconut to the caramelized sugar and mix well with a wooden spoon. Stir in the molasses and mix until well incorporated.
  3. 3. Stir in the orange peel and ginger and mix well. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until the mixture is thick and not runny.
  4. 4. Butter or grease a sheet pan. Spoon heaping teaspoonsful of the toolum mixture (about the size of a small chocolate truffle) about 1⁄2 inch apart onto the prepared pan. Allow the toolum to cool until it can be easily handled.
  5. 5. Place the granulated sugar in a small bowl. Drop a piece of toolum in the sugar. Pick it up and roll it between your palms into a ball. Store toolum in an airtight container, with waxed paper between the layers, for up to 2 weeks.

classic caribbean candy

In Trinidad, toolum candy is made at home and in small stores called “parlors” or “snackettes.” It’s hard to find toolum anymore, but it is a lovely classic Caribbean candy in the way that saltwater taffy and fudge are American heritage sweets. Toolum should normally be about the size of a golf ball, but I find that truffle-size toolum are just right.

Sugar Cakes

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes about 24 pieces

Sugar cakes are a common dessert in Trinidad and Guyana. Nothing more than sugar and coconut cooked together in water until they reach a syrupy consistency and then mounded on parchment paper to dry, sugar cakes are an incredibly sweet, simple treat. Because they are so sweet, I use a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop to measure out the mixture, because that makes a manageable two-bite “cake.” Note that this recipe must be made in a skillet, to aid evaporation.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the coconut, sugar, ginger, cinnamon stick, and water in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring often to melt the sugar, and cook until the mixture bubbles and clumps together, 12 to 13 minutes. There should not be any syrup visible and the coconut flakes should be translucent.
  2. 2. Take the pan off the heat and remove and discard the cinnamon stick and ginger. Stir in the coconut extract and vanilla.
  3. 3. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Spray a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or a tablespoon with cooking spray. This will help keep the mixture from sticking.
  4. 4. Scoop out tablespoon-size portions of the coconut mixture and place on the parchment. The mixture will be quite hot, so don’t touch it. You should have 20 to 24 pieces of candy.
  5. 5. Allow the sugar cakes to dry, uncovered, until they are firm and hard, about 24 hours. Store in a covered container for up to 1 month.
variation

Colorful Sugar Cakes

Those who know sugar cakes will be accustomed to seeing them in various pastel colors — mostly pink and green. I don’t include food coloring in my recipe, but if you’d like to try it, use about two drops of food coloring for this amount of batter.

Coconut Marshmallows

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes about 24 pieces

I’m generally not a fan of marshmallows, finding them too sweet for my liking, but these are a pleasant variation on the sweet fluff thanks to the crunch of the toasted coconut. Because I use coconut sugar along with granulated sugar, you’ll find that the marshmallows are a café au lait color, which I rather enjoy. Stacked in pretty cookie bags, between pieces of parchment paper, they make a nice holiday gift or party favor.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
  2. 2. Spread the coconut flakes on a baking sheet or sheet pan. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the coconut is lightly golden brown. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.
  3. 3. Place 1⁄2 cup of the water in a large bowl or stand mixer and sprinkle with the gelatin. Let this mixture sit until the gelatin “blooms” and totally absorbs the water, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.
  4. 4. Combine the remaining 1⁄2 cup water with the granulated sugar, coconut sugar, corn syrup, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Bring the mixture to a simmer and allow it to cook until all of the sugar dissolves, 4 to 5 minutes.
  5. 5. Reduce the heat to low and continue to simmer the sugar mixture, uncovered, until a candy thermometer reaches 240°F (116°C), 20 to 25 minutes, stirring often so that the mixture doesn’t boil over. If you do not have a candy thermometer, you can test whether the syrup is ready by scooping up 1⁄4 teaspoon with a spoon and dropping it into cold water. If it forms a soft ball, then the syrup is ready.
  6. 6. Using a handheld mixer or a stand mixer with a balloon whisk attachment, mix the gelatin at medium-high speed. Slowly pour the candy syrup into the bowl with the beater going. Beat until the mixture becomes thick, white, and fluffy, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in the coconut extract and beat for another 30 to 40 seconds.
  7. 7. Sprinkle the confectioners’ sugar evenly into a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Spray a rubber spatula lightly with cooking spray and use it to scrape the marshmallow mixture out of the mixing bowl. Spread the mixture evenly on top of the confectioners’ sugar in the baking dish. Spray the rubber spatula again, as needed, to prevent the marshmallow from sticking.
  8. 8. Press the toasted coconut flakes evenly into the top of the marshmallow. Leave the dish on the counter, uncovered, for 8 hours or overnight so the marshmallows dry and set. Once set, slice them into 2-inch squares and serve.
variation

Coconut-Ginger Marshmallows

For a kick of ginger, add 1⁄4 teaspoon ground ginger when you add the coconut extract in step 6. Instead of toasting the coconut, process the coconut flakes with 2 tablespoons candied ginger in a food processor until the mixture is like coarse sand, 30 to 40 seconds. Top the finished marshmallows with the coconut-ginger mixture.

Coconut-Caramel-Chocolate Shortbreads

Makes 30 cookies

In this version of the highly addictive Samoa Girl Scout cookie, I use coconut shortbread for the base cookie rather than plain shortbread. If you aren’t up to making your own caramel, you can melt 12 ounces of soft caramel candy by heating it for 1 to 2 minutes in a microwave. If you’re making your own caramel, I suggest preparing it after the cookies have been baked and fully cooled, as you will have to work quickly with the completed caramel so it does not harden.

shortbread

caramel

topping

make the shortbread

  1. 1. Sift together the flour and salt in a large bowl. Mix in the coconut.
  2. 2. In another large bowl, cream the butter and sugar with an electric mixer until fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add the egg and beat well.
  3. 3. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix well to form a smooth dough. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
  4. 4. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).
  5. 5. Roll out the dough into a 9- by 13-inch rectangle about 1⁄2 inch thick. Slice the dough lengthwise into five equal slices, and then crosswise into six equal slices. This will give you 30 pieces of shortbread. Arrange the shortbread on an ungreased baking sheet, leaving 1 inch of space between cookies.
  6. 6. Bake the cookies for about 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the pan and place on wire racks until thoroughly cool, about 20 minutes.

make the caramel

  1. 7. Heat the butter and cream in a small saucepan over low heat until just melted and combined, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat.
  2. 8. Combine the corn syrup and the water in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, then add the sugar. Using a wooden spoon, stir just until the sugar is moistened and resembles wet sand. Then increase the heat to medium-­high and bring the mixture to a boil for 1 to 2 minutes. Cover the pan and boil for 1 minute longer. This will add moisture to the pan.
  3. 9. Remove the lid and continue to boil the mixture until it reaches 320°F (160°C) on a candy thermometer or the edges of the mixture in the pan begin to look light brown, 6 to 7 minutes.
  4. 10. Slowly add the butter mixture, stirring well and cooking until the mixture reaches 240°F (116°C). Set aside. You can store the caramel in a covered, airtight glass bowl at room temperature for up to 3 days before using. If you don’t use it right away, you may have to warm the caramel slightly in the microwave (30 seconds to 1 minute on medium) before you’ll be able to drizzle it over the cookies.

assemble the cookies

  1. 11. Place the chocolate chips in a large glass bowl and heat in the microwave for 1 minute. Remove from the microwave and mix well with a rubber spatula. If all of the chips are not completely melted, heat for 1 minute longer.
  2. 12. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone pad. Dip the bottom of each piece of cooled shortbread into the melted chocolate and then place the cookies, chocolate side down, on the prepared baking sheet.
  3. 13. Using a tablespoon, scoop out the soft caramel and drizzle it evenly over the top of each cookie to coat completely.
  4. 14. Sprinkle the toasted coconut lightly but evenly over the top of the caramel. Using a clean spoon, drizzle thin lines of melted chocolate over the top of each cookie. Allow to cool until the chocolate base hardens completely.

Coconut-Orange Shortbread

Makes about 30 pieces

I love this orange-redolent version of shortbread — you’ll find that it is particularly good as a tea cookie. While the sanding sugar garnish is optional, it makes for a pretty cookie that is ideal for a holiday cookie swap or to serve to guests.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Sift together the flour and salt in a large bowl. Mix in the coconut and the orange zest.
  2. 2. Combine the butter and sugar in another large bowl and cream with an electric mixer until fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add the egg, coconut extract, and orange extract, and beat well.
  3. 3. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and blend well to form a smooth dough. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
  4. 4. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).
  5. 5. Roll out the dough into a 9- by 13-inch rectangle about 1⁄2 inch thick. Slice the dough lengthwise into five equal slices, and then crosswise into six equal slices. This will give you 30 pieces of shortbread. Arrange on an ungreased baking sheet, leaving 1 inch of space between cookies. Evenly dust each cookie with the sanding sugar, if using.
  6. 6. Bake the cookies for about 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the pan and place on wire racks until thoroughly cool, about 20 minutes.

fun with shapes

I like to experiment with different shapes of cookie cutters to add elegance or whimsy to the final product. Star-shaped cutters make these cookies a nice addition to a holiday cookie swap, while bars or rounds create more of an everyday cookie. The ambitious baker will find that this cookie is also suitable for “cutout”–style sandwich cookies, in which a top cookie with a pattern punched out of the middle is laid over a solid cookie that has been coated with caramel or orange marmalade, then the top of the finished cookie is drizzled with melted chocolate and toasted coconut.

Australian Lamingtons

Makes about 16 pieces

Lamingtons — squares of cake dipped in chocolate and then rolled in shredded coconut — are one of the most beloved desserts in Australia. For this version, I use a basic sturdy yellow cake recipe to which I’ve added coconut extract and a bit of coconut milk to boost the coconut flavor. In place of the traditional supersweet glaze of milk chocolate or a milk chocolate frosting, I use a simple bittersweet chocolate ganache that hardens nicely and makes the eating a shade less messy.

cake

chocolate ganache

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line an 8-inch square baking pan with a piece of parchment paper. Spray the parchment and the sides of the pan with cooking spray.
  2. 2. To make the cake, combine the butter and sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Using a handheld or stand mixer, cream until fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes.
  3. 3. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat the whole mixture until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes.
  4. 4. Stir in the coconut extract, vanilla, baking powder, and baking soda.
  5. 5. Whisk together the flour and salt in a small bowl. Add one-third of the flour to the butter mixture and beat well. Then add one-third of the buttermilk and beat well. Repeat, alternating the flour and buttermilk, until totally combined.
  6. 6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the cake is golden brown and beginning to pull away from the pan and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Allow to cool for 10 minutes in the pan on a wire rack, then flip it out onto the rack to cool completely (see note below).
  7. 7. Slice the cooled cake into 2-inch squares. You should have about 16 pieces.
  8. 8. To make the chocolate ganache, heat the cream in a medium saucepan over low heat. When bubbles begin to form at the edges of the pan, add the chocolate and cook, whisking constantly, until completely melted. Remove from the heat.
  9. 9. Place the grated coconut in a wide dish. Line a tray with parchment or waxed paper. Spear each cake square with a fork and dip into the ganache so that it is totally coated. Gently scrape off the excess with a rubber spatula or allow it to drip off, then place the cake square in the coconut and turn so all sides are coated. Place the finished Lamingtons on the prepared tray.
  10. 10. Allow the coated squares to cool completely before serving. Lamingtons may be stored in an airtight container in a single layer for 3 days.

Note: I find that freezing the cake before cutting makes it easier to coat the pieces in ganache and coconut.

the ubiquitous lamington

Lamingtons are named after the nineteenth-century governor of Australia, Lord Lamington. Lamingtons are sold in every pastry shop, grocer, and corner market in Australia. They are as ubiquitous at bake sales in that country as cupcakes are here in America.

Mexican Wedding Cookies with Coconut

Gluten-free

Makes about 48 cookies

This recipe is a riff on the Mexican wedding cookies called polavarones, which feature ground walnuts and a liberal dusting of confectioners’ sugar (polvo is Spanish for “powdered”). In this version of the Christmastime favorite, I’ve reduced the standard measure of nuts and replaced some of it with dried coconut.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the butter and sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Using a handheld or stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar at medium speed until fluffy, about 4 minutes.
  2. 2. Add the vanilla and coconut extract and beat well.
  3. 3. Whisk together the flour and salt in another large bowl. Add to the butter mixture and mix at medium speed until totally combined.
  4. 4. Combine the walnuts and coconut in a food processor and process until the mixture is the texture of coarse sand. Add these to the butter mixture and mix until they are just thoroughly combined. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
  5. 5. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  6. 6. Using a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or a tablespoon, scoop out balls of dough and place them on the prepared baking sheet. If you are using a tablespoon, gently roll the dough into a ball, but do not overhandle or you will melt the butter in the dough.
  7. 7. Bake for 14 to 15 minutes, or until just golden brown on top. Allow the cookies to cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes.
  8. 8. Spoon some confectioners’ sugar into a small handheld sieve and shake the sugar over the cookies until they are completely coated.

Caribbean Coconut Turnovers

Makes 15–20 turnovers

Handheld pies that hail from the English tradition of the “pasty” remain popular in the Caribbean, the most famous perhaps being Jamaican beef patties. Coconut-filled turnovers are a heritage pastry that were most often made at home for special occasions. Similar in appearance to a Mexican empanada, these little turnovers are a lovely alternative to apple or peach turnovers for the coconut lover.

pastry

filling

Instructions

  1. 1. Mix together the flour and salt in a large bowl. Cut in the butter with a pastry cutter or two knives until the dough reaches the consistency of coarse meal with pea-size pieces. Alternatively, combine the flour, salt, and butter in a food processor fitted with a plastic blade and pulse quickly. Do not overwork the dough. If using a food processor, remove the dough from the machine at this point and place in a mixing bowl. Using a spoon, stir the dough while adding drops of ice water until the dough just comes together in a ball.
  2. 2. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and flatten to form a disk. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or as long as overnight. The dough may also be frozen and then thawed in the refrigerator.
  3. 3. To make the filling, combine the water, coconut, sugar, and cinnamon stick in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring often, and cook until the sugar dissolves and a thick syrup forms. Continue to cook until there is almost no liquid remaining, 10 to 11 minutes total.
  4. 4. Remove from the heat. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick. Stir in the vanilla and allspice and mix well. Set aside to cool completely.
  5. 5. Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Dust a work surface and a rolling pin with flour. Roll out the pastry 1⁄8 inch thick, sprinkling with additional flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking. Use a pastry brush to dust away any excess flour. Cut circles from the dough using a 5-inch round pastry cutter.
  6. 6. Place 1 to 2 tablespoons of the coconut mixture in the center of each round. Brush the edges of the pastry with the beaten egg and fold over the filling. Use a fork to crimp the edges of each pastry closed.
  7. 7. Brush the top of each pastry with the remaining egg. Using a fork, poke a few air vents in the top of each turnover.
  8. 8. Preheat the oven to 425ºF (220ºC).
  9. 9. Place the turnovers on an ungreased baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes so that the butter in the crust becomes firm (once baked, the butter will melt and release steam to create a flaky crust). Bake the turnovers for 15 to 20 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Hareesh (Middle Eastern Coconut Semolina Cake)

Makes 1 cake

I love Middle Eastern sweets redolent of cardamom and rosewater, since they remind me of celebrations at the homes of my Persian relatives. Hareesh, also called basbousa, is a dense Arabic cake made from semolina flour that is then doused in sugar syrup and garnished with pistachios. This version adds coconut into the mix. You may wish to use half of the syrup to start, then determine if you want to use the whole batch. Hareesh is perfect with hot black tea.

Ingredients

syrup

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease an 8-inch round cake pan.
  2. 2. Combine the butter, cream, milk, yogurt, and vanilla in a large bowl and whisk well until smooth.
  3. 3. Whisk together the semolina flour, coconut, sugar, baking powder, cardamom, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Add to the milk mixture and whisk well until you have a very thick, smooth batter that can be cut with a knife. Add more semolina, a spoonful at a time, if needed.
  4. 4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Dip a sharp paring knife in hot water and use it to cut a pattern of squares or diamonds that are about 11⁄2 by 11⁄2 inches (see photo) in the batter. Bake the hareesh for 30 to 40 minutes, or until it is firm to the touch and golden brown, and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. If the hareesh isn’t browned but is cooked through, you can place it under the broiler for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Cool for 10 minutes, then run your knife along the score lines.
  5. 5. While the hareesh is baking, prepare the syrup: Combine the sugar and water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the mixture becomes a syrup about the consistency of maple syrup, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the rosewater and lemon juice, and allow to cool completely.
  6. 6. Pour the syrup over the hot hareesh. Decorate each square of hareesh with the crushed pistachios and allow to cool before serving.

Chinese-Style Sponge Roll with Coconut Cream

Makes 1 roll

This recipe is the result of a childhood addiction to the spongy, airy cake that I buy in New York’s Chinatown. Think of it as a classic jelly roll with coconut buttercream instead of jelly inside and a much lighter cake. This cake is a bit dangerous, though: because it’s so light, you’ll want to eat multiple slices! It is perfect with a cup of green or black tea.

cake

filling

glaze and topping

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a 9- by 13-inch jelly-roll pan with parchment paper.
  2. 2. To make the cake, sift the flour, cornstarch, and baking powder together three times in a large bowl to ensure that there are absolutely no lumps. Set aside.
  3. 3. Whisk the egg yolks together with half of the granulated sugar in another large bowl and whisk well until the mixture is thickened and doubled in volume, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the coconut oil, milk, and coconut milk, and stir until combined.
  4. 4. Add the flour mixture to the egg yolk mixture and mix well so there are no lumps.
  5. 5. Combine the egg whites and the remaining sugar in a separate large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a balloon whisk attachment. Using a handheld or stand mixer, whip until stiff peaks form. Fold the egg whites carefully into the batter until thoroughly combined.
  6. 6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Shake the pan so the batter is even.
  7. 7. Fill a second jelly-roll pan with water. Place the cake on the middle rack of the oven and place the water-filled pan on the rack below. Bake the cake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until it is risen and firm and springs back lightly when touched. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.
  8. 8. To make the filling, combine the butter, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Using a handheld or stand mixer, whip at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Add the coconut cream and whip for 1 to 2 minutes longer. Set in the refrigerator until well chilled.
  9. 9. To make the glaze, boil the granulated sugar and water together in a small saucepan until reduced and thickened to a syrup, 1 minute. Set aside.
  10. 10. Unmold the sponge cake onto a clean piece of parchment paper. Spread the chilled coconut buttercream evenly on top. Carefully begin rolling the cake forward, from the short side, gently pulling the cake into a tight tube as you roll it. When you are done rolling, place the cake seam side down on a platter.
  11. 11. Brush the cake with the glaze and then dust with the coconut. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
  12. 12. To serve, trim a little off each end of the cake so the first slices are neat. Slice the cake into 1-inch-wide slices and serve.

Salara (Guyanese Danish)

Makes 1 roll

Salara is a coconut “jelly roll” that is found in every Guyanese bakery or take-out restaurant. The coconut center is most often dyed red using food coloring, which I do not do, but you certainly may. Mixed essence can be found in Caribbean markets or online.

dough

filling

Instructions

  1. 1. To make the dough, combine the yeast, warm water, and 1 teaspoon of the granulated sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, stir, and let sit until frothy and bubbly, about 5 minutes.
  2. 2. Meanwhile, heat the milk, vegetable shortening, and the remaining 1⁄4 cup granulated sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat until it just comes to a simmer, the shortening melts, and the sugar is dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the vanilla and set aside to cool to 110°F (45°C).
  3. 3. Add the milk mixture to the yeast mixture and mix with a handheld or stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. With the mixer going at medium-low speed, slowly add the flour. Then increase the speed to medium and knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic, 3 to 4 minutes. Lightly grease a large bowl with coconut oil. Place the dough in the bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Set in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
  4. 4. To make the filling, combine the coconut, superfine sugar, mixed essence, allspice, and cinnamon in a large bowl and set aside.
  5. 5. Punch down the risen dough and flour a work surface liberally. Roll out the dough into a 10- by 14-inch rectangle. Brush the dough with the melted butter. Spread the filling evenly on top of the rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border of dough on all sides. Roll up the dough from the long side, pulling the dough slightly toward you as you roll.
  6. 6. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the salara roll on the baking sheet, seam side down, and press down on it slightly to flatten it into more of an oval shape. Set the roll aside to rise for 40 minutes.
  7. 7. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
  8. 8. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until deeply golden brown. Cool completely, slice, and serve.

guyanese cuisine

Guyana is known for its pastries, which were brought to the country by Dutch colonials in the eighteenth century. Guyanese culture is considered West Indian, even though Guyana is not a Caribbean island. Many of the dishes there are similar to what you might find in Trinidad, thanks to the similar mix of peoples — Africans, East Indians, Chinese, and Europeans.

Classic Coconut Cake

Makes one 9-inch layer cake

This cake, beloved of the South, was for many years one of the few ways in which Americans encountered coconut. Even though we’ve graduated into a whole world of coconut flavor, there is something sublime about this cake. It begins with a simple yellow cake recipe to which coconut extract is added. The frosting is a coconut buttercream that is finished with a flurry of sweetened coconut flakes.

cake

frosting

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray two 9- by 2-inch round cake pans with cooking spray.
  2. 2. To make the cake, combine the butter and granulated sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Cream with a handheld or stand mixer at medium speed until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes.
  3. 3. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition.
  4. 4. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.
  5. 5. Add one-third of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix until just combined. Add one-third of the buttermilk and mix until just combined. Repeat, alternating the flour and buttermilk in thirds, until totally combined. Stir in the coconut extract and vanilla.
  6. 6. Divide the batter equally between the prepared pans. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the cakes are golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove the cakes from the oven and place on a wire rack. Cool in the pans for 10 minutes, then turn the cakes out onto the rack to cool completely.
  7. 7. While the cakes are cooling, make the frosting: Combine the confectioners’ sugar, butter, coconut cream, milk, and vanilla in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Cream with a handheld or stand mixer at medium speed until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside.
  8. 8. When the cakes are cool, place one cake right side up on a cake stand. If the top is too puffy, use a serrated knife to trim and flatten the top. Spread about one-third of the frosting on the top of the cake, then place the second cake upside down on top of the first.
  9. 9. Frost the top and sides of the cake with the remaining buttercream frosting. Press the coconut flakes into the top and sides. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set the frosting before serving.

Coconut Layer Pound Cake with Lime Cream Cheese Frosting

Makes 1 cake

Here is another version of the quintessential cake of the American South — the coconut layer cake. This confection ranks alongside red velvet cake and devil’s food cake in American culture. In this version, I use coconut pound cake because it’s so moist, and because it’s denser than traditional yellow cakes, it stands up well to the avalanche of coconut cream cheese frosting and sweetened shredded coconut. The lime zest adds a subtle zing to the topping.

cake

frosting

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 325ºF (165ºC). Spray three 9- by 1-inch round cake pans with cooking spray.
  2. 2. To make the cake, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder in a large bowl. Set aside.
  3. 3. Combine the butter, sour cream, and granulated sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Beat with a handheld or stand mixer until light and fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.
  4. 4. Add the coconut extract and vanilla to the butter mixture. Reduce the mixer speed to low, add half the flour mixture, then the coconut milk, then the remaining flour mixture. Beat after each addition until just incorporated, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Stir in the shredded coconut.
  5. 5. Divide the batter evenly among the prepared cake pans. Bake for 45 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cakes cool in the pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Then set the rack over a sheet of waxed paper, invert the cakes onto the rack, and let cool completely.
  6. 6. Make the frosting while the cakes are cooling: Combine the cream cheese and butter in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Beat with a handheld or stand mixer until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2 cups of the confectioners’ sugar, then 1 tablespoon of the coconut milk. Repeat, alternating the sugar and coconut milk, beating after each addition. Add the vanilla and lime zest and mix until fully incorporated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, placing the wrap right against the frosting, and chill until the cakes are completely cool.
  7. 7. Place one of the cakes on a clean work surface and frost it. This is the bottom layer. Place the next layer on top and frost the top and sides. Place the final layer on top. Frost the exterior of the cake with the remaining frosting. Generously sprinkle the top and sides with the coconut flakes, using a flat rubber spatula to press the coconut into the sides of the cake if necessary.

Emily Dickinson’s Coconut Cake

Makes 1 cake

A little-known fact about the reclusive poet Emily Dickinson is that she was an avid cook and baker. This recipe for “cocoanut” cake (Dickinson’s original spelling) was found among her papers. My version makes a fluffier cake than the original, which contained only 1⁄2 teaspoon of baking soda. I have upped the baking soda to 1 teaspoon and added 1 tablespoon of baking powder. Top with sugared flowers, which were very popular during Dickinson’s time.

sugared flowers

cake

Note: To make the sugared flowers, it’s imperative that you start with edible flowers that have not been sprayed with pesticides or fertilizers. The flowers will not keep well, so I suggest making only what’s necessary for this cake.

make the sugared flowers

  1. 1. If using powdered egg whites, whisk with 2 tablespoons of water in a small bowl. If using fresh egg white, whisk with 1 teaspoon of water in a small bowl.
  2. 2. Using a small, clean paintbrush, brush each flower with egg white. It’s helpful to hold the stems with small tweezers while doing this.
  3. 3. Dust each painted flower with enough of the superfine sugar to evenly coat. Place on a piece of parchment paper to dry at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours or overnight.

make the cake

  1. 4. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Lightly grease an 8-inch round cake pan or an 8- by 4-inch loaf pan.
  2. 5. Combine the butter and sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Cream with a handheld or stand mixer at medium speed until the butter and sugar are well incorporated, then increase the speed to medium-high and beat until fluffy, about 4 minutes.
  3. 6. Lower the mixer speed to medium and add the eggs, one at time, beating well after each addition.
  4. 7. Whisk together the coconut, cake flour, baking soda, baking powder, and cream of tartar in a large bowl.
  5. 8. With the mixer running at medium-low speed, add one-third of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and blend well. Then add one-third of the milk and mix. Repeat, alternating the flour and milk, until all are used.
  6. 9. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then gently turn out of the pan to cool completely.

assemble the cake

  1. 10. Glaze the cooled cake with Meyer Lemon Glaze or Lime Cream Cheese Frosting. Decorate with the sugared flowers.

coconut in the U.S.

Emily Dickinson’s recipe, which dates to sometime in the mid-nineteenth century, speaks to the fact that coconut has been liked and used in the United States for a long period of time. Whole coconuts were even shipped to New England and the American South during the eighteenth century.

Coconut Bars

Makes 16 bars

I got the idea for these bars after seeing how many lemon bars were offered at a bake sale at my daughter’s school. I realized that the combination of a soft, custardy topping on a firm yet pliable base was incredibly appealing. Instead of a cookie base, these bars have a walnut crust based on the recipe for a crusted flourless chocolate cake that I had more than 20 years ago in San Francisco.

crust

topping

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking spray.
  2. 2. To make the crust, combine the coconut flour and walnuts in a food processor and process into a fine powder.
  3. 3. Add the brown sugar, butter, and salt, and process until the mixture clumps together in pea-size grains, about 2 minutes. Add the egg and pulse a few more times until it all comes together in a ball.
  4. 4. Remove the dough ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for 20 minutes, then press into the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake the crust for 15 to 20 minutes, or until it is firm and golden brown at the edges.
  5. 5. While the crust is baking, make the topping: Combine the egg yolks, coconut cream, and granulated sugar in a large bowl and beat together. Stir in the coconut flakes, cornstarch, and vanilla, and mix well. Pour this mixture over the walnut crust. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the topping is set and doesn’t jiggle when shaken. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely, then refrigerate for 1 hour.
  6. 6. Chop the chocolate, if using, into small pieces and place in a small glass bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds at a time until the chocolate just melts. Stir well and drizzle diagonally over the bars. Let the chocolate set until firm, about 15 minutes, then slice the bars into 2-inch squares. Alternatively, simply dust the bars with confectioners’ sugar. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Coconut Cheesecake with Guava Glaze

Makes one 9-inch cheesecake

Here, I’ve simply adapted a fail-proof cheesecake recipe that I’ve used for years. It’s a favorite because the texture and taste are classic New York cheesecake through and through — dense and creamy. The best thing about this recipe is that it is extremely easy to prepare: you just place all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until smooth before pouring into a prepared piecrust. Guava jam is available in Latino markets.

crust

cheesecake

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Lightly spray a 9-inch pie plate with cooking spray.
  2. 2. To make the crust, combine the graham cracker crumbs, dried coconut, sugar, and butter in a medium bowl. Stir well; the mixture should have the consistency of wet sand. Press the crumbs into the prepared dish. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely.
  3. 3. To make the filling, combine the cream cheese, sour cream, coconut cream, sugar, eggs, coconut extract, and vanilla in a food processor. Pulse until thick and smooth, without lumps, about 1 minute. Do not overprocess or the mixture will become runny.
  4. 4. Pour the cream cheese mixture on top of the crust. Bake for 50 minutes, or until the top of the cheesecake doesn’t jiggle when shaken.
  5. 5. While the cheesecake is baking, combine the guava jam, coconut sugar, and rum in a small saucepan over low heat. Simmer, whisking, until the mixture is thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.
  6. 6. Slide the pie plate out of the oven, pour the guava mixture on the middle of the cheesecake, and smooth it evenly over the surface with the back of a spoon. Spread the coconut evenly on top. Turn the oven off and slide the cheesecake back inside. Allow the cheesecake to sit in the oven until the oven completely cools down.
  7. 7. Refrigerate the cheesecake for at least 8 hours and up to overnight. Serve chilled.

Coconut Cream Pie

Makes one 9-inch pie

I like both coconut cream pie and coconut custard pie, but if pressed, I’d have to say this cream pie is my favorite pie of all time. The lightened coconut custard is delicious without being heavy or too sweet, which makes it an ideal dessert for a summer picnic, a holiday meal, or anything in between. If you can’t find sweetened finely shredded coconut, place regular sweetened shredded coconut in a food processor and pulse until fine.

crust

coconut custard

filling and topping

Instructions

  1. 1. To make the crust, combine the flour and salt in a food processor and process briefly to mix. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture forms pea-size chunks.
  2. 2. Pour the crust mixture into a large bowl and gradually add the ice water, mixing gently until the mixture just comes together into a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour. You can also flatten the dough ball into a disk, wrap well, and freeze for up to 1 month.
  3. 3. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
  4. 4. Liberally flour a work surface and flatten the chilled dough ball on it. Flour your rolling pin and roll the dough out into a disk 10 to 11 inches wide.
  5. 5. Line a 9-inch pie plate with the piecrust and fold the edges under. Crimp them to make a decorative pattern. Using a fork, prick the crust all over, then cover with a piece of parchment paper or aluminum foil and add pie weights. Bake the crust for 20 minutes. Remove the pie weights and parchment and bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer, or until the crust is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool completely.
  6. 6. To make the coconut custard, whisk together the water and cornstarch in a small bowl. Set aside.
  7. 7. Combine the coconut milk, the sugar, and the salt in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat, whisking frequently to melt the sugar, until the liquid just starts to simmer around the edges of the pan, 3 to 4 minutes.
  8. 8. Place the egg yolks in a large bowl and beat to break them up. Slowly drizzle the hot coconut milk mixture into the eggs, whisking the whole time. When all of the hot milk mixture has been added to the egg yolks, return the mixture to the saucepan.
  9. 9. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture starts to thicken up like pudding, 4 to 5 minutes.
  10. 10. Mix in the coconut extract, vanilla, and shredded coconut. Cook for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and chill until completely cold, about 1 hour.
  11. 11. To make the filling and topping, combine the heavy cream, sugar, coconut extract, and vanilla in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a balloon whisk attachment. Whip the cream with a handheld or stand mixer at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes.
  12. 12. Gently fold one-quarter of the whipped cream into the coconut custard. Pour this mixture into the prepared piecrust and smooth the top, then chill until firm, 1 to 2 hours. Spoon the rest of the whipped cream on top of the filled pie. Make sure the surface is totally covered. Garnish with the toasted coconut and chill in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours. Serve chilled.

Coconut Cream and Chocolate Cream Layer Pie

Makes one 10-inch pie

There are chocolate cream pie aficionados like my husband, and then there are coconut cream pie aficionados like me. I came up with this pie to meld the best of both worlds. Each slice has layers of chocolate and coconut for a lovely presentation. We often serve this at Thanksgiving for something a little different from the standard pumpkin, sweet potato, or pecan offerings.

crust

chocolate cream filling

coconut cream filling

topping

make the piecrust

  1. 1. Combine the flour and salt in a food processor and process briefly to mix. Add the ­butter and pulse until you have chunks about the size of peas.
  2. 2. Pour the crust mixture into a large bowl and gradually add the ice water, mixing gently until the mixture just comes together into a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour before using. You can also flatten the dough ball into a disk, wrap well, and freeze for up to 1 month.
  3. 3. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
  4. 4. Liberally flour a work surface and flatten the chilled dough ball on it. Flour your rolling pin and roll the dough out into a disk about 12 to 13 inches wide.
  5. 5. Line a 10-inch deep-dish pie plate with the piecrust and fold the edges under. Crimp them to make a decorative pattern. Use a fork to prick the crust all over, then cover with a piece of parchment paper or aluminum foil and add pie weights. Bake the crust for 20 minutes. Remove the pie weights and parchment and bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer, or until the crust is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

make the chocolate cream filling

  1. 6. Whisk together the water and the cornstarch in a small bowl. Set aside.
  2. 7. Combine the milk, heavy cream, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium-­low heat, whisking frequently to melt the sugar, until it just starts to simmer around the edges of the pan, 3 to 4 minutes.
  3. 8. Place the egg yolks in a large bowl and beat to break them up. Slowly drizzle the hot milk mixture into the eggs, whisking vigorously the whole time. When all of the hot milk mixture has been added to the egg yolks, return the mixture to the saucepan.
  4. 9. Reduce the heat to low and add the cornstarch slurry. Cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture starts to thicken up like pudding, 4 to 5 minutes.
  5. 10. Remove the custard from the heat and add the bittersweet chocolate and cocoa powder, whisking until all of the chocolate is melted and well mixed. Whisk in the vanilla and then add the butter, whisking until it is melted and fully incorporated. Place plastic wrap over the chocolate cream, laying the wrap right against the custard, and chill in the refrigerator until completely cold, about 2 hours.

make the coconut cream filling

  1. 11. Whisk together the water and the cornstarch in a small bowl. Set aside.
  2. 12. Combine the coconut milk, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat, whisking frequently to melt the sugar, until the liquid just starts to simmer around the edges of the pan, 3 to 4 minutes.
  3. 13. Place the egg yolks in a large bowl and beat to break them up. Slowly drizzle the hot coconut milk mixture into the eggs, whisking the whole time. When all of the hot milk mixture has been added to the egg yolks, return the mixture to the saucepan.
  4. 14. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture starts to thicken up like pudding, 4 to 5 minutes.
  5. 15. Mix in the coconut extract, vanilla, and shredded coconut. Cook for 1 minute longer, then remove from the heat.
  6. 16. Combine the heavy cream and sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a balloon whisk attachment. Whip with a handheld or stand mixer at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Gently fold the whipped cream into the coconut custard. Refrigerate the custard mixture until completely cold, about 1 hour.

assemble the pie

  1. 17. Spoon half of the coconut custard into the pie shell. Top with an equal amount of chocolate custard. Layer the remaining coconut custard on top, and then layer the remaining chocolate custard on top of that. The top layer may be higher than the level of the pie plate rim, but that’s okay. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
  2. 18. When the pie is completely chilled, make the whipped cream topping: Combine the heavy cream, sugar, coconut extract, and vanilla in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a balloon whisk attachment. Whip with a handheld or stand mixer at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes.
  3. 19. Spoon the whipped cream on top of the pie, smoothing lightly so that it covers the surface of the pie in soft peaks. Garnish with the toasted coconut and shaved chocolate. Keep refrigerated and serve cold.

Coconut Custard Pie

Makes one 9-inch pie

In my young life, there were a few bastions of commercial coconut goodness. There was the single coconut Life Saver in the tropical fruit–flavored roll of that candy, the Mounds candy bar, and, finally, the coconut custard pie made by Entenmann’s, the beloved New York–based commercial bakery. This is my homage to that pie.

crust

filling

Instructions

  1. 1. To make the piecrust, combine the flour and salt in a food processor and process briefly to mix. Add the butter and pulse until you have chunks about the size of peas.
  2. 2. Pour the crust mixture into a large bowl and gradually add the ice water, mixing gently until the mixture just comes together into a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour before using. You can also flatten the dough ball into a disk, wrap well, and freeze for up to 1 month.
  3. 3. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).
  4. 4. Liberally flour a work surface and flatten the chilled dough ball on it. Flour your rolling pin and roll the dough out into a disk about 10 to 11 inches wide.
  5. 5. Line a 9-inch pie plate with the piecrust and fold the edges under. Crimp them to make a decorative pattern.
  6. 6. To make the filling, combine the eggs and sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. With a handheld or stand mixer, beat for 3 minutes. Add the coconut flour and cornstarch and mix at medium-high speed for 2 minutes.
  7. 7. Add the coconut and stir well to combine. Add the coconut cream, coconut extract, vanilla, nutmeg, and salt, stirring well to thoroughly combine. Pour this mixture into the prepared piecrust.
  8. 8. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the filling is set and does not jiggle when shaken. Don’t overbake.
  9. 9. Remove the pie from the oven and allow to cool completely, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. Serve with fresh whipped cream, if desired.

Coconut Lemongrass Semifreddo

Gluten-free

Makes 1 loaf

Semifreddo is an excellent option for those who love frozen desserts but may not necessarily want to go to the trouble of churning ice cream. Semifreddo means “semifrozen” in Italian, and this Italian classic features whipped cream that is folded into custard. I’ve flavored the coconut milk with lemon zest and lemongrass before whisking it into egg yolks for a custard. Mixed raspberries and blackberries are a gorgeous accompaniment to this dish.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Line an 8- by 4-inch loaf pan with two large pieces of overlapping plastic wrap and let them hang over the long sides of the pan. Layer the almonds and the coconut on the bottom.
  2. 2. Whisk together the water and the cornstarch in a small bowl. Set aside.
  3. 3. Combine the coconut milk, 1 cup of the sugar, lemongrass, and the lemon zest in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a low simmer, stirring often, until all the sugar melts, 3 to 4 minutes. Cover the pan and remove from the heat. Set aside for about 1 hour so the lemongrass stalk can steep and release its flavor.
  4. 4. Put the saucepan back over medium heat and bring just to a simmer. Strain the mixture into another pan or a heatproof pitcher.
  5. 5. Whisk the egg yolks together in a wide deep bowl. Slowly add the coconut milk mixture in a thin, slow stream, whisking constantly to incorporate fully. Return the mixture to the saucepan over low heat. Add the cornstarch mixture and whisk constantly until the mixture thickens, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and refrigerate for 1 hour.
  6. 6. Pour the custard into a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer with a whisk attachment. With a handheld or stand mixer, whip at medium-high speed until the custard is thickened, 4 to 5 minutes.
  7. 7. Pour the heavy cream into another large bowl and whip with a handheld mixer until stiff peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Fold it gently into the custard.
  8. 8. Spoon the custard cream into the prepared loaf pan and smooth. Tap the pan on the counter to remove air bubbles. Fold the plastic wrap over the top of the custard and freeze until firm, about 6 hours or up to overnight. As long as it’s well wrapped, you can leave the semifreddo in the freezer for up to 3 days before unmolding.
  9. 9. Gently mix together the berries and the remaining 1⁄4 cup sugar in a medium bowl.
  10. 10. Unwrap the semifreddo and place a platter over the loaf pan. Turn the loaf pan over onto the platter and unmold the semifreddo. Gently pull away the plastic wrap. Some of the almonds and coconut may pull away with the wrap; just press them gently back into place.
  11. 11. Arrange the berries on top of the semifreddo. Slice to serve.

Vegan Coconut Ice Cream

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 1 quart

This ice cream recipe is a go-to in my family. I started making it in the days when it was virtually impossible to get any kind of coconut product in America except for, maybe, a Mounds bar or an occasional coconut-crusted vanilla bar from some select ice cream trucks. Because I was interested in coconut flavor above all, I created this recipe using only coconut milk and coconut cream.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the coconut milk, coconut cream, sugar, and agar in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly until the sugar is dissolved.
  2. 2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the coconut extract and vanilla. Set aside to cool completely.
  3. 3. Place the coconut in a food processor and pulse until it has the texture of coarse sand, 10 to 15 seconds. Stir the coconut into the coconut milk mixture.
  4. 4. Churn the coconut mixture in your ice cream maker, following the manufacturer’s directions. When firm, place in the freezer in a quart-size container to set completely, about 4 hours.
variation

Coconut Ice Cream Sandwiches

For a wonderful (though not vegan) variation, sandwich some of this ice cream between shortbreads from the Coconut-Caramel-Chocolate Shortbreads recipe and pat sweetened coconut flakes around the edges. Freeze these between sheets of waxed paper for a very grown-up version of traditional ice cream sandwiches.

Coconut-Soursop (Guanabana) Sorbet

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 1 quart

This sorbet is one of my absolute favorites. Soursop, which is called guanabana in Latin America, is a naturally sweet and tart green fruit with a soft white flesh. You can find frozen soursop purée in Caribbean or Spanish markets but also, increasingly, in the Latino section of your grocer’s freezer. This sorbet is a wonderful palate cleanser to serve between courses, as you would a lemon sorbet.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer until the mixture is reduced and thickened into a syrup roughly the consistency of honey, 8 to 10 minutes.
  2. 2. Combine the coconut water and soursop in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat and bring to just under a simmer. This is to warm the mixture so that the simple syrup doesn’t harden when combined. Add the simple syrup, lime zest, and lime juice, and mix well.
  3. 3. Allow the mixture to cool, then churn in your ice cream maker to sorbet stage, following the manufacturer’s directions. Scoop the sorbet into a quart container and freeze for at least 8 hours or until firm. The sorbet will keep for up to 2 weeks in the freezer.

Coconut Panna Cotta

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

This light molded pudding is an ideal summer dessert. It’s not too sweet, and the consistency is smooth and silky. Sophisticated and delicate, the panna cotta is impressive on the plate, belying how easy it is to make. It’s particularly nice garnished with fresh chopped fruit to add tang and color. The panna cotta will need to chill for at least 8 hours before serving, so plan ahead.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Place the sugar in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it melts. Continue to cook, swirling the pan, until the melted sugar is deeply golden brown. Divide the melted sugar among four 3⁄4-cup (6-ounce) ramekins, and tilt the ramekins so the sugar coats the bottom. Set aside.
  2. 2. Whisk together the coconut milk, cream of coconut, and agar in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Bring the mixture to a simmer and whisk well until it is completely incorporated and combined. Simmer gently for 1 minute, then remove the mixture from the heat. Add the rum and mix well.
  3. 3. Allow the mixture to cool until it is just warm and then divide evenly among the prepared ramekins. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours and up to overnight.
  4. 4. Pour boiling water into a shallow bowl. To unmold the panna cotta, dip the bottom of a ramekin in the hot water. Do not let any water slosh over into the panna cotta. Run a sharp paring knife around the edges of the panna cotta. Turn a dessert plate upside down on top of the panna cotta and then flip it over. The dessert should come out easily. Repeat with all the panna cotta. Garnish with chopped fruit, if using. When wrapped well in plastic wrap, any leftovers will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Coconut Macaroons

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes about 20 cookies

Coconut macaroons, mostly known as a popular treat at Passover, are one of the most unsung American desserts. While the preparation is easy, macaroons require constant vigilance during the stovetop stage. Using a double boiler to make the batter is a good way to ensure it doesn’t scorch. Dried unsweetened shredded coconut (Bob’s Red Mill and King Arthur Flour both make a version specifically for macaroons) is an absolute essential to achieve just the right consistency.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.
  2. 2. Combine the egg whites, sugar, salt, and cream of tartar in a double boiler or a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook over low heat, whisking lightly, until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is creamy and warm to the touch, 3 to 4 minutes.
  3. 3. Add the vanilla and mix well, then add the coconut. Using a wooden spoon, stir constantly until the mixture begins to come away from the sides of the bowl, 8 to 10 minutes.
  4. 4. Remove the coconut mixture from the heat. Using a 1-tablespoon ice cream scoop or a tablespoon, drop scoopfuls of the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet.
  5. 5. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until light golden brown. Allow to cool completely before serving. Coconut macaroons can be stored in an airtight jar or ziplock bag for up to 1 week.

Chocolate-Dipped Macaroons

If you prefer your coconut macaroons dipped in chocolate, melt 8 ounces of semisweet chocolate chips in a medium bowl in the microwave. Heat them on high in 10-second intervals, stirring the chocolate between each interval. It should take no more than 50 seconds to melt the chips completely. Alternatively, melt the chocolate in a double boiler over medium heat, stirring frequently, until all the chips are melted.

Once your chocolate is melted, carefully dip the flat bottom surface of each macaroon into the melted chocolate. Allow the excess to drip off, then place the macaroons on a tray lined with waxed paper until they are firm. Store in an airtight container.

Bibingka (Filipino Coconut Cake)

Gluten-free

Makes 12 cakes

Bibingka is a naturally gluten-free dessert from the Philippines that has a pleasantly silky, pudding-like texture. It is traditionally baked in a clay pot lined with banana leaves and then nestled in hot coals. To approximate that taste in a Western oven, I line each cup of my muffin pan with two pieces of banana leaf (available in Caribbean markets). If you want a more authentic experience, you can slightly char the banana leaves over an open flame before using them to line the muffin cups.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). If using banana leaves, cut them into 16 strips that are 3 inches by 4 inches. Line each cup of an 8-cup muffin pan with two overlapping strips of banana leaf.
  2. 2. Whisk together the sugar, rice flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.
  3. 3. Combine the coconut milk, butter, and eggs in another large bowl and beat very well.
  4. 4. Add the flour mixture to the milk mixture and, using a whisk, beat the batter well.
  5. 5. Evenly divide the batter among the prepared muffin cups, then top the cups evenly with the coconut flakes. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the bibingka are puffed and the center does not jiggle when shaken. Serve hot.

a filipino christmas tradition

Bibingka is commonly eaten after midnight mass on Christmas Eve in the Philippines. Churches often give away the treat to parishioners after services. A similar cake is also made for Chinese New Year in Malaysia. Made from sweet rice flour and coconut milk, bibingka has many variations. Being a coconut purist, I add only sweetened coconut flakes to my bibingka, but some people add cheddar cheese or a salted duck egg. I’ve also seen versions with banana or cream cheese. If you choose to add any of these, place about 1 teaspoon of each topping in the muffin pan after you’ve filled it with bibingka batter.

Tembleque

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4–6 servings

Tembleque means “trembling” in Spanish, and it’s a good description for this jiggly coconut pudding made with coconut milk, sugar, and cornstarch. Tembleque is very light and incredibly easy to prepare. You can make it more elegant by chilling it in a pretty mold and dusting it with cinnamon or serving it with sliced fruit.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the cornstarch and 1⁄2 cup of the coconut milk in a small bowl and stir until the cornstarch dissolves. Set aside.
  2. 2. Combine the remaining 3 cups coconut milk and the sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk constantly until the sugar is dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the salt, add the cornstarch slurry, and continue whisking until the mixture boils and thickens like a heavy gravy, 5 to 6 minutes.
  3. 3. Pour into four 3⁄4-cup (6-ounce) molds and chill in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days. If you plan to chill the tembleque for a longer period, wrap the molds in plastic wrap.
  4. 4. Unmold the tembleque by running a thin, sharp paring knife around the edge of each mold. Place a plate over the top of the mold and turn the mold over onto it. The pudding should come right out. Dust lightly with cinnamon and then garnish with some strawberry slices and mint leaves.
variation

Tembleque Toppings

Though most often associated with Puerto Rico, tembleque exists in one form or another throughout Latin America, and the flavoring agents change depending on locale. In Brazil, for example, it’s called manjar branco and is topped with prunes poached in wine. An identical pudding can be found in Hawaii, where it is called haupia. In Hong Kong and other parts of China, another similar pudding is cut into squares and called “coconut bar.”

Coconut-Rum Crème Brûlée

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

Crème brûlée is a seemingly simple dessert that truly tests the skill of the cook. Not only must you create a creamy custard, but it has to stay nice and cool even after you’ve “brûléed” or broiled the sugar on top. The secret is to use coconut sugar, which melts quickly and creates a nice hard caramel crust without heating up the custard below.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Whisk together the water and the cornstarch in a small bowl. Set aside.
  2. 2. Combine the cream and coconut cream in a medium saucepan over medium heat and whisk well to combine. Split the vanilla bean down the center with a sharp paring knife and scrape out the seeds. Add these to the pan, along with the bean itself.
  3. 3. Heat the cream mixture until it just simmers, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to sit for 30 minutes for the vanilla bean to infuse flavor.
  4. 4. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C).
  5. 5. Return the pan to the heat and bring the mixture to a low simmer over medium-low heat. Whisk well. Remove the vanilla bean and discard.
  6. 6. In a heatproof bowl, whisk the egg yolks and granulated sugar together, then add the cream mixture in a thin, steady stream, whisking vigorously the whole time.
  7. 7. Stir in the coconut extract and rum and divide the mixture evenly among four 3⁄4-cup (6-ounce) ramekins. Place the ramekins in a baking dish that is deep enough to hold them and add enough water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the whole dish tightly with aluminum foil.
  8. 8. Bake the custards for 45 to 50 minutes, or until they are firm around the edges. When you jiggle them, they should not be loose in the middle. Remove the custards and allow them to cool for 10 to 15 minutes, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
  9. 9. To serve the crème brûlée, evenly dust each custard top with a thin layer of the coconut sugar (about 1 teaspoon per custard). Using a kitchen torch, lightly melt the sugar to form a hard caramel top. Alternatively, you may place the custards on a cookie sheet under the broiler and cook until the sugar melts, about 1 minute. Serve with fresh raspberries on the side.

Coconut Rice Pudding with Pineapple Brûlée

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

This rice pudding is simply called “sweet rice” in the Caribbean. The rum gives this soothing dish a sophisticated air, although you can certainly omit it. Raisins are nice touch if you like them, and currants will work, too. The richly caramelized pineapple spears add a sweet-tart element, while the crunch of the coconut chips turns this humble comfort food into something spectacular.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. To wash the rice, place it in a deep bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 3 inches. Swirl the rice around with your hand until the water becomes cloudy. Carefully drain the water. Repeat this four or five times, or until the water runs clear. Set the rice aside.
  2. 2. Bring 11⁄2 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan and add the rice. Simmer, uncovered, for 8 to 10 minutes, skimming off any foam from the top of the rice as necessary.
  3. 3. Drain the rice and return it to the saucepan with the coconut milk, sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Stir once. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, over medium-low heat for 10 minutes. Add the rum, if using, along with the coconut extract, vanilla, and raisins, if desired, and simmer for 5 minutes longer. Stir occasionally to ensure that the pudding does not scorch on the bottom. The finished pudding should be soft and thick, but not sticky, and have some liquid.
  4. 4. While the pudding is cooking, preheat the oven broiler. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray or line with parchment paper or a silicone mat.
  5. 5. Place the pineapple spears on the prepared baking sheet. Spray the spears lightly with cooking spray, then sprinkle evenly with the coconut sugar. Place in the hot oven and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, or until the sugar melts and starts to caramelize. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly, 2 to 3 minutes.
  6. 6. Divide the rice pudding evenly among four small bowls and garnish with pineapple spears standing up in the pudding. Sprinkle the top of the pudding with the toasted coconut and serve.

Coconut-Cinnamon Rolls with Toasted Coconut-Cream Cheese Frosting

Makes 12 oversize rolls

For this recipe, I’ve taken a basic sweet roll dough and added coconut. These are a Christmas Day tradition in my house, and we eat them while opening presents. Fluffy and pillowy, they are just sweet enough, and the cream cheese frosting adds a nice balance to the filling. You can let the rolls rise in the refrigerator overnight rather than on a countertop if you want to bake them first thing in the morning.

rolls

filling

frosting

Instructions

  1. 1. To prepare the rolls, place the warm water in a small bowl and sprinkle the yeast over the top. Add 1 teaspoon of the granulated sugar. Stir and set aside in a warm place until the yeast is bubbly and frothy, about 5 minutes.
  2. 2. Put the yeast mixture in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add the butter and the remaining 1⁄4 cup sugar and mix well with a handheld or stand mixer. You may still have lumps of butter, but that’s okay.
  3. 3. Add the eggs and mix well. Add the milk, salt, and vanilla, and mix for 1 minute. Add the flour 1 cup at a time, mixing at medium speed, until you get a soft, slightly sticky dough. Add additional flour, if needed, by the tablespoon to achieve this texture. Lightly oil a large bowl with coconut oil. Put the dough in the greased bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
  4. 4. To make the filling, combine half of the brown and granulated sugars, half of the cinnamon, and the coconut in a medium bowl. Mix well. Set aside.
  5. 5. Combine the butter and corn syrup in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir until the butter melts. Remove from the heat.
  6. 6. To form the rolls, dust a clean work surface liberally with flour and roll out the dough into a 15- by 13-inch rectangle. Brush half of the corn syrup mixture on the dough, leaving about 1 inch of dough around the edges. Spread the coconut-cinnamon mixture on top, reserving 3 tablespoons for the pan.
  7. 7. Roll up the dough, like a jelly roll, from the long side. Gently pull the dough toward you while rolling in order to get a tight roll. Slice the roll crosswise into 1⁄2-inch-wide slices.
  8. 8. Pour the rest of the corn syrup mixture into a 9- by 13-inch baking dish and sprinkle the remaining coconut-cinnamon mixture on top. Nestle the rolls in the baking dish with about 1⁄2 inch of space between them. Cover the rolls loosely with a clean dish towel and set aside to rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
  9. 9. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
  10. 10. Bake the rolls for 25 to 30 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown on top. Remove and let cool slightly.
  11. 11. While the rolls are baking, make the frosting: Combine the cream cheese and coconut cream in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix with a handheld or stand mixer at medium speed until the mixture is fluffy and well combined, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, coconut extract, and vanilla, and mix until combined, 2 to 3 minutes longer.
  12. 12. Spread the frosting on the slightly cooled rolls while they are still in the pan. Garnish with the toasted coconut, if using. The rolls may be kept, well wrapped, for up to 2 days at room temperature.

Hawaiian Malasadas with Haupia (Coconut Pudding Filling)

Makes 24 doughnuts

Malasadas are a Portuguese doughnut traditionally served on Fat Tuesday — Mardi Gras. Today, malasadas are a popular treat in Hawaii, and the fillings include jellies made from local fruits like mango, pineapple, and papaya, as well as haupia, a cornstarch-thickened coconut pudding.

malasadas

filling

topping

Instructions

  1. 1. To prepare the malasadas, combine the yeast and water in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer and add 1 teaspoon of the sugar. Stir and set aside until the yeast is frothy and bubbly, about 5 minutes.
  2. 2. Add the milk and vanilla and mix with a handheld or stand mixer at medium speed until totally combined. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the butter and mix well.
  3. 3. Combine the flour, salt, and remaining 1⁄3 cup sugar in a medium bowl and mix well. Add this to the yeast mixture and mix at medium speed until you have a soft, smooth dough, 3 to 4 minutes. Add flour as necessary to achieve this consistency, 1 tablespoon at a time (the dough will be slightly sticky). Cover the dough with a clean towel and set in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
  4. 4. While the dough is rising, make the haupia filling: Combine the cornstarch with 1⁄4 cup of the coconut milk in a small bowl and stir to dissolve. Set aside.
  5. 5. Combine the remaining 21⁄4 cups coconut milk and the sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat and whisk well until the sugar is dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the salt and the cornstarch slurry and continue whisking until the mixture boils and thickens like pudding, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. Fill a large pastry bag with a 1⁄2-inch round tip with the cooled filling. Set aside.
  6. 6. Once it has risen, punch down the malasada dough and divide into 24 pieces, each about the size of a golf ball. You may have to lightly grease your ­fingers to prevent the dough from sticking.
  7. 7. Place the dough balls on a tray and cover with a clean towel. Set aside in a warm place to rise for another 20 minutes.
  8. 8. Heat 3 inches of oil in a large pot set over medium heat. Test the oil by dropping a small piece of dough into it. If it bubbles vigorously and the dough begins to brown, then the oil is ready.
  9. 9. Place a wire rack over a sheet pan or line a pan with paper towels. Gently flatten each dough ball into a disk about 3 inches wide and 1⁄4 inch thick and drop it into the hot oil. Don’t crowd them in the pan. Fry the malasadas in batches until golden brown on all sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on the wire rack. Allow to cool slightly.
  10. 10. Use a sharp paring knife to cut a small, deep slit in the side of a malasada. Insert the tip of the pastry bag and fill the malasada until the haupia comes up to the slit in the doughnut. Repeat with all of the malasadas.
  11. 11. To make the topping, mix the cinnamon and sugar together in a small bowl, then sprinkle the malasadas with this mixture.

the malasadas origin

Legend has it that malasadas came about when devout Catholics had to use up the luxury foods in their kitchens, like butter and sugar, in anticipation of the spartan Lenten season ushered in on Ash Wednesday. When Portuguese immigrants came to Hawaii in the nineteenth century to work on the pineapple plantations, they brought the tradition with them, and there it became adapted to local ingredients and customs.

Mille-Feuille with Coconut Pastry Cream

Makes 6 servings

Mille-feuille means “a thousand layers” in French and refers to the flaky puff pastry crust that is the mainstay of this dessert. The Napoleon, which alternates vanilla custard and puff pastry and is iced with sugar icing and a chocolate design, is the most recognizable version of this dish. Here I use coconut pastry cream for the filling and a simple sugar icing flavored with coconut milk and coconut extract.

pastry

filling

icing

Instructions

  1. 1. To make the pastry, roll out the puff pastry on a large piece of parchment paper to a rectangle that is about 11 by 12 inches. Slice the pastry into three rectangles that are roughly 11 by 4 inches. Refrigerate the pastry for 30 minutes.
  2. 2. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
  3. 3. Prick each piece of pastry all over with a fork and then brush with the milk. Sprinkle evenly with the granulated sugar. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden and puffy. Remove from the oven and cool completely.
  4. 4. To make the filling, mix the cornstarch with the water in a small bowl and whisk to combine. Set aside.
  5. 5. Combine the coconut milk, granulated sugar, and salt in a medium sauce–pan over medium-low heat. Cook, whisking frequently, until the mixture just starts to simmer around the edges of the pan and the sugar has melted, 3 to 4 minutes.
  6. 6. Place the egg yolks in a large bowl and beat to break them apart. Slowly drizzle the hot coconut milk mixture into the eggs, whisking the whole time. When all of the hot milk mixture has been added, return the mixture to the saucepan.
  7. 7. Reduce the heat to low and add the cornstarch slurry. Cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture starts to thicken up like pudding, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
  8. 8. Mix in the coconut extract and vanilla. Place the pastry cream in a bowl and chill in the refrigerator until it is completely cold, about 2 hours.
  9. 9. While the custard is chilling, making the icing: Combine the confectioners’ sugar, coconut milk, water, and coconut extract in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a balloon whisk attachment. Whisk by hand or with a stand mixer until totally combined into a loose icing. Add more water drop by drop if necessary to achieve this consistency.
  10. 10. Place the chocolate in a small microwavable bowl and put in the microwave. Heat on medium or half power for 15-second intervals, not exceeding 2 minutes, until fully melted. Pour the melted chocolate into a small pastry cone and snip off a small hole at the tip.
  11. 11. To assemble the milles-feuilles, place one of the puff pastry rectangles on a platter and spread half of the pastry cream evenly on top. Gently place the second layer of puff pastry on top and spread the other half of the pastry cream on that.
  12. 12. Lay the last layer of puff pastry on a flat surface and, using an offset spatula, spread the icing evenly on top of it. Using the pastry cone, squeeze lines of chocolate across the short side of the iced pastry about 1⁄2 inch apart. Using a toothpick, gently drag the icing perpendicularly across the chocolate lines from one end of the pastry to the other. Do this across the chocolate in 1⁄2-inch increments.
  13. 13. Gently place the iced pastry layer on top of the other layers of pastry and cream, icing side up. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes before serving.

Coconut-Banana Bread Pudding with Rum-Pineapple Topping

Makes 1 loaf

The idea of soaking stale bread in milk and sugar and baking it is the basis for one of the oldest desserts in Western culture: bread pudding. I like to use egg-based bread, like a brioche or challah, because the end product tastes richer. I also make bread pudding in a loaf pan and then turn it out in one piece and slice it, topping with whipped cream and glaze. For a dairy-free version, omit the whipped cream.

pudding

topping

whipped cream

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter an 8- by 4-inch loaf pan.
  2. 2. To make the pudding, place the bread cubes in a large bowl. Pour 1 cup of the coconut milk over the bread cubes and mix well so that all the cubes are moistened. Allow the bread cubes to soak for 10 minutes.
  3. 3. Mix remaining 11⁄2 cups coconut milk with the eggs, banana, and vanilla in another large bowl and beat very well. Add the sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and mix well. Add the bread cubes to this mixture and mix thoroughly so the bread is soaked through. Set aside for 10 minutes for the liquid to be absorbed. Mix once again.
  4. 4. Pour the bread mixture into the prepared loaf pan and press down firmly so it all fits. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and place in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Add enough water to the baking dish to come halfway up the sides of the loaf pan.
  5. 5. Bake the pudding for 30 to 40 minutes, or until it is puffed and springs back lightly when touched. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes, then unmold onto a platter.
  6. 6. While the pudding is baking, make the pineapple topping: Combine the pineapple, brown sugar, and rum in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir constantly until the sugar is melted, about 3 minutes. Simmer until the mixture is slightly thickened, 13 to 15 minutes, or until you see holes begin to form on the surface of the mixture. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool for 10 minutes.
  7. 7. To make the whipped cream, combine the cream, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla in a large bowl and whip with a whisk until stiff peaks form.
  8. 8. Pour the warm pineapple topping over the bread pudding and slice the pudding into 1⁄2-inch slices to serve. Top each slice with the whipped cream.

Coconut Tamales (Paime)

Gluten-free

Makes 18 tamales

The “sweet tamale” is common throughout the Caribbean, but the ingredients vary. This Trinidadian version features cornmeal, coconut, and pumpkin. Like Toolum, it’s hard to find paime (pronounced pay-mee) now, although it was once common everywhere. I happen to really love this dessert. It’s especially delicious if you pour just a bit of heavy cream over the top when serving. You’ll need kitchen twine for this recipe.

Ingredients

Note: If using defrosted frozen banana leaves, you may find that they tear easily. Keep the trimmings of your cut banana-leaf squares to patch over any tears before tying up the paime. Alternatively, many cooks layer a square of parchment on top of the banana leaf and then place the paime dough on top of that before folding the whole thing over, which is a good solution, too.

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat the coconut oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the raisins and fry until they just plump up. Remove from the heat and set aside.
  2. 2. Stir together the coconut, pumpkin, and sugar in a large bowl. Add the raisin mixture and mix well.
  3. 3. Whisk together the masa harina, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a medium bowl. Add it to the pumpkin mixture and stir well to combine.
  4. 4. Combine the coconut milk and mixed essence in a small bowl. Add to the flour mixture, stirring well until you get the consistency of soft play dough. Add more coconut milk or water as needed to achieve this consistency. Divide this dough into 18 pieces.
  5. 5. Spread a banana leaf on a flat surface and place one of the dough pieces on it. Fold over the leaf and press down to flatten the dough. Using a rubber spatula, gently push the dough into a 2- by 3-inch rectangle in the middle of the leaf so that it can be covered completely by overlapping one side of the leaf. Fold the banana leaf like you would wrap a package and tie securely with kitchen twine. Repeat with all of the dough and banana leaves.
  6. 6. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and gently add the paime. Simmer until the paime feel firm inside their wrappings, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the pot.
  7. 7. When the leaves are cool enough to handle, unwrap the paime, drizzle with the cream, and serve warm.

paime’s different names

African in origin, this dessert is called paime in Trinidad but duckanoo on other islands — a derivation from its original West African name. Other versions can feature cornmeal alone, or other root vegetables in addition to taro, such as eddoes or batata (Caribbean sweet potato). The paime is always tied up in a banana leaf similar to the way a tamale is tied up in a corn husk, and steamed. For this reason, another Jamaican name for the dessert is “tie a leaf.” In Jamaica, it’s also called “blue drawers,” perhaps because of the bluish tinge the dessert derives from the taro root that’s used in it there.