4

vegetables, legumes, and starches

I often think about the fact that the flesh of the coconut is called the “meat,” given that coconut is such a good substitute for meat in many dishes. Its richness, texture, and satisfying taste make it an excellent substitute for animal products, and an ideal ingredient in a vegan or vegetarian kitchen. But even for those who are omnivores or who are simply seeking interesting side dishes, the addition of coconut can elevate common vegetables and starches to new heights and make them stars of the plate. In this section, you’ll find recipes for everyday vegetables, sides, and legumes as well as some that might be a bit more exotic, in which case I usually give a substitution. In addition to coconut-based side dishes, I’ve included some basic recipes for side dishes that complement other recipes in this book, such as plain basmati and jasmine rice.

Asparagus with Shallots and Shredded Coconut

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Paleo-friendly

Makes 4 servings

Most recipes use whole asparagus, but the asparagus in this dish has been cut into bite-size pieces so that it melds better with the other ingredients. This is a delightful side dish for fish or chicken, or as part of a vegan spread. It also can be eaten as the primary dish, perhaps with basmati rice or even with pita or naan as an Indian-style vegetarian main course.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat the coconut oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and asparagus and fry until the asparagus starts to lightly brown, 4 to 5 minutes.
  2. 2. Add the chile and mustard seeds and fry until the mustard seeds start to pop, about 3 minutes.
  3. 3. Stir in the coconut and mix well. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes. Mix in the madras curry powder and fry for 1 minute longer.
  4. 4. Pour the water into the pan and reduce the heat to low. Simmer until all the water is absorbed, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve hot.

Zucchini with Mustard Seed, Grated Coconut, and Turmeric

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

Marrying the South Asian flavors of tamarind, coconut, and mustard seeds creates a tart, creamy, pungent side dish or vegetarian/vegan main dish. I recommend using my favorite type of zucchini, the Lebanese kusa variety, sometimes called “gray zucchini.” The flesh of kusa is a bit firmer and the taste sweeter and more distinct than that of regular varieties. It is easily found in Latino and Middle Eastern markets and is recognizable by its pale pistachio-colored skin and fatter, squatter body.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat a large skillet over high heat and add the coconut oil. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onion. Fry until the onion just begins to soften, 2 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for 1 minute. Add the curry leaves and fry for 30 seconds.
  2. 2. Stir in the zucchini and mix until all of the pieces are coated in oil, then season with the salt and pepper. Cook the zucchini until it is just beginning to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the mustard seeds and cook until the seeds begin to pop, 1 to 2 minutes. Mix in the turmeric. This will make the mixture very dry. Cook until the turmeric begins to release its aromas, about 30 seconds.
  3. 3. Stir in the coconut and broth. Reduce the heat to low and cook, uncovered, until roughly half of the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes.
  4. 4. While the vegetables are cooking, combine the water, tamarind syrup, and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until thickened and reduced by half, 10 to 12 minutes. You should have a thin syrup.
  5. 5. Remove the zucchini from the heat and spoon into a large flat dish. Drizzle with the tamarind sauce. Garnish with the chopped cilantro, if using, and serve.

Roasted Cauliflower with Coconut and Green Chiles

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Paleo-friendly

Makes 4–6 servings

In my opinion, cauliflower is entirely undersung as a versatile vegetable. It lends itself well to being fried, stewed, curried, baked, roasted, and puréed. In this recipe, I use warm spices as the flavoring for richly caramelized cauliflower that is then tossed with crisped green chiles, garlic, and toasted coconut. I find that it’s hearty enough to be an entrée.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
  2. 2. Place the cauliflower florets in a large baking dish or on a sheet pan with high sides and drizzle them with the olive oil. Season with the coriander, cumin, and turmeric. Add salt and pepper to taste and mix well.
  3. 3. Roast the cauliflower in the oven until it is deeply golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes.
  4. 4. While the cauliflower is roasting, heat the coconut oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and chile and fry until the garlic is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes.
  5. 5. Arrange the cauliflower on a platter and toss with the fried garlic and chile and the toasted coconut.

Kabocha Squash Purée with Coconut and Korean Chile

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4–6 servings

I got the idea for this purée from a common Trinidadian pumpkin dish usually served for breakfast with roti, a flatbread. In that iteration, the pumpkin is cooked down with onions, garlic, and spices until it becomes a mash. My version uses kabocha squash, a favorite of mine for its delicately sweet flavor and almost fluffy texture, and gochujang, a fermented chile paste made in Korea. Try serving this purée as a unique side dish at Thanksgiving.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat a large deep saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the coconut oil and heat for 30 seconds, then add the squash. Sauté for 10 minutes. Stir in the shallot, garlic, and thyme and mix well.
  2. 2. Add the stock and reduce the heat to low. Cover the pan and simmer the squash until it is fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
  3. 3. Place the squash pieces in a food processor and process to a smooth paste. Return the purée to the pan and whisk in the gochujang, coconut milk, and salt to taste. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook gently for 3 to 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Tempura Cauliflower with Coconut Harissa Sauce

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

Here is another cauliflower recipe, but this one features a crisp tempura batter to go with a spicy dipping sauce. I love using three different types of cauliflower, but this batter works equally well with any vegetable that is suitable for tempura, such as zucchini, kabocha squash, green beans, eggplant, mushrooms, and green peppers. Be sure to make the dipping sauce before you fry the cauliflower, because you’ll want to eat the tempura while it’s hot.

dipping sauce

tempura

Note: Shichimi togarashi is a common Japanese seven-spice powder blend that includes chile pepper, seaweed, ginger, and orange. You can find it in Asian grocery stores.

Instructions

  1. 1. To make the dipping sauce, heat the sesame oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and ginger and fry for 1 minute. Stir in the rice wine and cook until the mixture is reduced by half, 2 to 4 minutes. Mix in the coconut nectar and harissa. Simmer for 2 minutes longer, stirring well. Remove from the heat and set aside.
  2. 2. To make the tempura batter, whisk together the cornstarch, flour, salt, and shichimi togarashi in a large bowl. Gently stir in the egg whites and enough club soda to bring the batter to about the consistency of pancake batter.
  3. 3. Heat the safflower oil in a deep saucepan over medium-low heat. When a drop of batter placed in the oil vigorously bubbles and rises to the surface, the oil is ready. Set a wire rack over a sheet pan or line a tray with paper towels.
  4. 4. Dip the cauliflower into the batter and coat evenly. Do not shake off the excess.
  5. 5. Drop the coated cauliflower pieces into the oil and fry until they are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and place on the wire rack or the tray lined with paper towels to drain. Serve hot with the dipping sauce.

Tricolor Carrots Roasted with Coconut-Orange Glaze

Gluten-free

Makes 4 servings

Deeply red, yellow, and even purple heirloom carrots are as delicious as they are attractive. I love to slow-roast these carrots to bring out their sweetness and then toss them in a sweet-sour-hot glaze. This is a richly hued, addictively tasty dish for any fall supper, and for the Thanksgiving table in particular.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).
  2. 2. Slice the carrots, on a bias, into 1-inch pieces and place in a large bowl. Toss with the coconut oil, thyme, salt, and black pepper to taste. Mix well so that all the carrots are well coated. Spread on a sheet pan or baking dish in one layer.
  3. 3. Roast the carrots in the oven until they are browned and tender, 20 to 30 minutes.
  4. 4. While the carrots are roasting, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the coconut nectar, orange juice, and red pepper flakes. Simmer until the liquid is reduced by one-quarter and thickened, 6 to 7 minutes.
  5. 5. Remove the carrots from the oven and pour the sauce over the carrots. Return the carrots to the oven and roast for 5 to 10 minutes longer, or until most of the glaze is absorbed. Remove from the oven and mix in the orange zest.
  6. 6. Arrange the carrots on a platter and garnish evenly with the parsley.

Note: You’ll notice I scrub my carrots rather than peel them; this is because the outer skin is full of nutrients. Of course, you can peel yours if you like.

Dal Makhani (Black Lentils in Coconut-Tomato-Masala Sauce)

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

This dish is the vegan counterpart to Coconut Tikka Masala and tastes so good you won’t miss the meat. Black lentils (also called urad dal) have a toothsome, nutty flavor that makes for a hearty dish. Asafetida is a powdered herb that is usually added to beans in Indian cooking. It imparts a subtle flavor, but more importantly, it reduces gastric disturbances that eating a lot of beans might sometimes cause. Serve with white basmati rice or naan bread.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the lentils, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the bay leaf and the asafetida, if using. Cook the lentils until tender, about 30 minutes, skimming off any white froth that forms on the surface.
  2. 2. Drain the lentils and rinse with cool water. Discard the bay leaf.
  3. 3. To make the sauce, heat a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the coconut oil, garlic, and ginger, and fry for 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the garam masala and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.
  4. 4. Slowly drizzle the coconut milk and coconut cream into the tomato paste mixture, whisking constantly until the mixture is completely smooth. Add the salt and the cooked lentils. When the mixture reaches a simmer, reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
  5. 5. Rub the fenugreek leaves together between your palms and add to the saucepan. Simmer for 1 minute.

Coconut Boston Baked Beans

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

Boston baked beans are a quintessentially comforting American dish that brings to mind low and slow hearth cooking. Molasses is the traditional flavoring for baked beans, but my version uses coconut nectar instead. The result is a somewhat lighter version of the classic dish. Serve these beans with some good, crusty white bread or cornbread for a more total meal.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 275°F (135°C). If using presoaked dried beans, parboil them: Bring 6 cups of water to a boil in a large pot. Drain the soaked beans and add them to the boiling water, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook the beans until they are just tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.
  2. 2. Heat a large ovenproof pot, like a Dutch oven, over medium-low heat. Add the bacon and fry until it is nicely brown and the fat is rendered, 5 to 6 minutes.
  3. 3. Add the onion and garlic and fry until the onion begins to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and fry for 1 minute. Stir in the mustard, pepper, and brown sugar, and fry for 1 minute longer.
  4. 4. Add the beans, coconut nectar, thyme, and boiling water. Stir well. Cover the pot, place it in the oven, and bake until the beans are very tender (4 hours if using dried beans and 21⁄2 hours if using canned).
  5. 5. Remove the pot from the oven and stir in salt to taste. Return the pot to the oven and bake, uncovered, for another 30 to 40 minutes.

Toasted Chickpeas with Mixed Greens in Coconut Sauce

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

I came up with this recipe one summer when my garden produced an overabundance of greens. Out of options, I decided to experiment with cooking them in the same method that is used for callaloo, a West African stew made from chopped taro leaves and coconut milk. You can use any type of greens you like, but I think the slightly bitter bite of collards or mustard greens really complements the caramelized sweetness of the onion and garlic. Serve hot as a side dish or as a main dish with crusty bread.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat the coconut oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Stir in the chickpeas and fry gently until they are lightly browned on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the cumin and fry for 30 seconds. Add the onion and garlic and fry until the onions begin to soften, 3 to 4 minutes.
  2. 2. Stir in the mixed greens, salt, and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to low and add the water. Cover and allow the greens to braise until they soften, about 20 minutes.
  3. 3. Add the coconut milk and mix well. Increase the heat to medium-­low and simmer, uncovered, until the coconut milk is reduced by half, about 10 minutes.

Note: If you’re using dried chickpeas — which I think have a better flavor — you’ll want to soak them in 1 cup of water overnight. The next day, bring 1 cup of water to a boil, drain the beans, and add them to the boiling water. Simmer the beans until they are tender, about 1 hour. You can add a pinch of baking soda to the cooking water to soften up the beans more quickly. I often prepare dried beans and then drain and freeze them in ziplock bags so I have them ready whenever I want them. To use, I simply defrost them by dropping the frozen beans into some boiling water for 1 minute.

Breadfruit Oil Down

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Paleo-friendly

Makes 4 servings

Oil down is a traditional method of simmering starchy vegetables and fruits with a piece of salted meat in coconut milk until the milk is totally absorbed and only the oil of the milk is left at the bottom of the pot. If you can’t find fresh breadfruit, look for it canned or frozen in Caribbean and Indian markets; you can also substitute yucca. Ají dulce, or “seasoning pepper,” is found in Caribbean and Latino markets as well. This dish is hearty enough for an excellent winter or fall supper.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat the coconut oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the shallots, peppers, garlic, and ham, and sauté until the shallots begin to soften, 1 to 2 minutes.
  2. 2. Add the dasheen leaves, if using, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Stir well and cook, covered, until the dasheen begins to reduce and soften, about 5 minutes.
  3. 3. Stir in the pork, culantro, thyme, and coconut milk and mix well. Bring to a simmer. Add the breadfruit, cover, and simmer until the breadfruit has totally absorbed the coconut milk and only a little oil is left in the pan, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in the salt and serve hot.

caribbean staples

Breadfruit, jackfruit, and yucca (cassava) were the staples of nutrition for the enslaved, and later indentured, workforce of the Caribbean. These starchy fruits were cheap and plentiful, and they filled the belly with carbohydrates that kept workers going for long and brutal hours. This history, coupled with the diverse cultural heritage in the Caribbean (Spanish, French, West African, East Indian, Chinese, and native Caribbean), means that there are more recipes for these ingredients than you can count. Often, coconut products — also plentiful, with the advantage of being nutritionally dense — rounded out the preparations.

Vegetable Korma

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Paleo-friendly

Makes 4 servings

This variation on chicken korma puts seasonal vegetables to good use. Meatier vegetables like eggplant and squash are ideal, but root vegetables like carrot and potato are equally good. The best vegetable kormas feature a variety of vegetables, and I’ve made this dish with a mix of cauliflower, zucchini, and even green beans. Experiment to find which combinations you like best. Serve with Persian-Style Basmati Rice

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat the coconut oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and fry until it begins to soften, 2 to 3 minutes.
  2. 2. Add the garlic and ginger and fry, stirring constantly, until just ­fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the cardamom, chile, garam masala, and tumeric, and fry for 1 minute longer, stirring constantly.
  3. 3. Add the eggplant, green beans, and potato to the pan and mix well. Fry until the pieces begin to brown on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the salt and mix well.
  4. 4. Stir in the water. Bring to a simmer and cook until the water reduces by half, 10 to 12 minutes.
  5. 5. Stir in the almond butter and mix well. Simmer for 2 minutes so that the almond butter breaks up and you have smooth, thick sauce.
  6. 6. Add the squash and the coconut milk and mix thoroughly. Simmer for 10 minutes longer. The sauce should be thick and creamy and pale yellow or beige in color.

Coconut Potato Curry

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Paleo-friendly

Makes 4 servings

This potato curry is slightly tangy thanks to the crushed tomato and tomato paste. Fenugreek, an herb that is integral to a lot of Indian cooking, really makes this dish. You can find it fresh or dried in Indian markets. If you can’t find fenugreek, use cilantro. This is a good side dish, or serve it with naan or pita bread as an entrée.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat the coconut oil in a large skillet over medium heat and add the potatoes. Fry until lightly browned on all sides, 6 to 7 minutes.
  2. 2. Stir in the onion and fry for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and fry for 1 minute.
  3. 3. Stir in the coriander, cumin, turmeric, and chile, and mix well. Cook for 1 minute.
  4. 4. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often.
  5. 5. Add the crushed tomatoes and water. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat and cook, uncovered, until the potatoes are fork-tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 20 to 25 minutes.
  6. 6. Add the coconut milk and salt and stir well. Rub the fenugreek between your palms, then stir it into the mixture. Simmer for 10 minutes.

Persian-Style Basmati Rice

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 6–8 servings

Persians are known for perfect rice in which every grain is separate, long, dry, and fluffy. The secret is a steaming method that traps the excess moisture away from the rice as it cooks. While the oil may seem excessive, it’s absolutely necessary to get the prized tahdig crust at the bottom of the rice. When you remove the tahdig, enjoy it plain, or drizzle a little sauce from your main dish on top for a delicious appetizer.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. To wash the rice, place it in a deep bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 3 inches. Swirl the rice around with your hand until the water is cloudy. Carefully drain the water. Repeat this four or five times, until the water runs clear. Set the rice aside.
  2. 2. Bring 6 cups of the water to a boil in a large nonstick saucepan or a large iron pot. Add the salt, 1 tablespoon of the oil, and the rice, and simmer over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Drain in a fine-mesh seive.
  3. 3. Add 1⁄4 cup of the water and 1 tablespoon of the oil to the rice pot. Swirl it around. Place a large spoonful of rice in the middle of the pot and continue adding spoonfuls in a mound until all the rice is used. Drizzle the remaining 1⁄4 cup oil over the rice and pour the remaining 1⁄4 cup water over it. Use a rubber spatula to smooth the mound into a pyramid.
  4. 4. Place a clean dish towel or doubled-up paper towels over the pot and squeeze the lid into place. Do not allow the cloth to droop over the sides; instead, fold it up over the top of the lid like a bundle. Cook the rice over low heat until the rice grains appear fat and fluffy, 25 to 30 minutes.
  5. 5. Spoon the rice onto a platter. To remove the tahdig (rice crust) on the bottom of the pan, place the bottom of the pot under cold water, then use a spatula to carefully loosen the crust. Turn it out onto a platter and serve.
variation

indian-spiced rice

When I’m making Indian dishes, I add a cinnamon stick and two cardamom pods to the rice as it boils. I then lightly sauté golden raisins, fresh peas, and slivered almonds (about 1⁄4 cup of each) in 1 tablespoon of butter. I mix these in with the rice before I “mound” it for steaming.

Jasmine Rice

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 8 servings

Jasmine rice is a standard accompaniment to Thai and Vietnamese foods. Longer than American rice varieties, this fragrant grain is closer in taste and texture to Indian basmati rice, although somewhat stickier. It’s necessary to wash the rice thoroughly — at least four or five times — before cooking to prevent it from becoming hopelessly gloppy. I like to add a kaffir lime leaf for an extra layer of aroma and delicate taste.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. To wash the rice, place it in a deep bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 3 inches. Swirl the rice around with your hand until the water is cloudy. Carefully drain the water. Repeat this four or five times, until the water runs clear. Set the rice aside.
  2. 2. Bring the water to a boil in a large nonstick saucepan or a large iron pot. Add the salt, coconut oil, lime leaf, and rice, and simmer over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, covered, mixing once or twice. Skim off any thick white liquid that rises to the top of the rice.
  3. 3. When all of the water is absorbed, place a clean dish towel or doubled-up paper towels over the pot and then squeeze the lid into place. Do not allow the cloth to droop over the sides; instead, fold it up over the top of the lid like a bundle. Cover and cook the rice over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes longer. Remove the lid and fluff.

how to achieve fluffy rice

In this recipe, I defer to the Persian and North Indian method of steaming the rice over low heat after it has been parboiled. A cloth or layer of paper towels placed between the lid and the top of the pan captures any moisture up and away from the rice grains. It is a foolproof method for making fluffy, rather than sticky, rice.

Jasmine rice, which is used primarily in Thailand, is one of the stickier rice grains, so it’s also important to wash it well before cooking to ensure a fluffy end result.

Coconut Black Rice with Toasted Shallots and Garlic

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

Black rice, also called “forbidden rice,” is a Chinese variety that is dark black when raw but cooks up purple. The hue is an indication of anthocyanin, a powerful antioxidant found in many richly colored fruits and vegetables like eggplant, cherries, currants, acai, and some varieties of grape. The nutty-flavored firm grain also has vitamin E and iron, which makes it a nutritional powerhouse.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Bring the water and the salt to a boil. Add the black rice, along with the star anise, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer the rice, occasionally skimming off any foam, until it is cooked through and tender, 45 minutes.
  2. 2. Drain the rice in a fine-mesh sieve and return it to the pot. Add the coconut milk and season with pepper. Heat over medium-low heat, uncovered and stirring often, until the coconut milk is totally absorbed, about 15 minutes.
  3. 3. Heat the coconut oil in a small sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and garlic and fry until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon.
  4. 4. Pour the rice into a serving dish and sprinkle the fried shallots and garlic on top. Garnish with the cilantro.

Coconut-Calamansi Lime Rice

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

This recipe is an ideal accompaniment to the Pan-Seared Halibut with Coconut Saffron Cream as well as any Far Eastern and South Asian recipe that calls for rice as a side dish. This rice is flavored with calamansi lime juice, which is found in Asian markets, but Key lime juice is a great substitute. If you can’t find either, use regular lime juice along with 1⁄2 teaspoon of grated lime zest.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. To wash the rice, place it in a deep bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 3 inches. Swirl the rice around with your hand until the water is cloudy. Carefully drain the water. Repeat this four or five times, until the water runs clear. Set the rice aside.
  2. 2. Combine the rice, lime juice, salt, and 11⁄2 cups water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-high and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain in a fine mesh sieve.
  3. 3. Return the rice to the pan and add the coconut milk. Using a spatula, smooth the rice into a high pyramid in the middle of the pot. Place a clean dish towel or doubled-up paper towels over the pot and squeeze the lid into place. Do not allow the cloth to droop over the sides; instead, fold it up over the top of the lid like a bundle. Cook the rice over low heat for 20 minutes.
  4. 4. Remove the pan from the heat and fluff the rice with a fork. Serve in a bowl. Garnish with the lime zest, if using.

Jeweled Couscous

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 4 servings

This is one of my favorite side dishes because I find couscous to be as versatile as rice in many ways. For this recipe, I use Israeli couscous, which is the larger “pearl” variety, because it is tough enough to stand up to the addition of nuts, raisins, and curry leaves. The name for this side dish comes from a Persian rice dish that features basmati rice, pistachios, and barberries for a sweet-and-sour profile.

Ingredients

Note: Though not strictly necessary, the candied orange peel adds a wonderful flavor profile. Making your own is labor intensive but well worth it. You can purchase dried orange peel in Middle Eastern markets; make sure to purchase the long strips of orange peel rather than the grated or minced varieties.

Instructions

  1. 1. Using a sharp paring knife, score the oranges from stem end to bottom in four sections. Carefully peel away the skin. Use your paring knife to cut away the pith (white part) on the inside of the skin, then julienne each section of peel into long strips. Discard the pith.
  2. 2. Pour 1 cup of water into a small pot and bring to a boil. Add the julienned orange peel (or the dried orange peel, if that is what you’re using). Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain. Repeat two more times to ensure any bitterness is removed from the peels. Drain and set aside.
  3. 3. Combine the sugar and the remaining 1 cup water in the pot. Add the orange peels and simmer until the water is nearly totally absorbed and only a few tablespoons of syrup are left in the pan, 12 to 14 minutes. Set aside.
  4. 4. Heat 1 tablespoon of the coconut oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add half of the onion and sauté until it is nicely golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cumin and turmeric, mix well, and fry for 30 seconds.
  5. 5. Stir in the couscous and toss well to coat, then add the stock, salt, and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until all of the liquid is absorbed and the couscous is tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
  6. 6. While the couscous is cooking, make the fruit and nut mix: Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon coconut oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add the curry leaves and fry until they begin to blister and curl, 30 seconds. Add the remaining onion and fry until it begins to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the cashews and fry until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the raisins and coconut and fry for 1 to 2 minutes.
  7. 7. Add the orange peel and syrup to the fruit mixture and fry for 1 to 2 minutes longer.
  8. 8. Fluff the couscous and arrange on a platter. Gently mix in the fruit mixture. Serve hot, garnished with parsley.

Coconut Crab Pilaf

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 8 servings

My inspiration for this dish comes from crab pelau, a dish native to the island of Tobago. Crab pelau melds East Indian and African foodways as a one-pot meal of mixed rice and chicken or, in this case, crab. Coconut milk is a standard ingredient in both versions, as is Scotch bonnet chile. I like to substitute Old Bay Seasoning for the traditional green seasoning.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
  2. 2. To wash the rice, place it in a deep bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 3 inches. Swirl the rice around with your hand until the water is cloudy. Carefully drain the water. Repeat this four or fives times, until the water runs clear. Drain the rice in a sieve or colander and set aside.
  3. 3. Heat the coconut oil in a medium iron pot or oven-safe saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and garlic and fry until the shallots begin to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the curry powder and fry for 30 to 40 seconds longer.
  4. 4. Add the drained rice and mix very well to coat, then stir in the stock and coconut milk. Add the chile, thyme, Old Bay Seasoning, and salt. Stir well. Place in the oven, uncovered, and cook until nearly all of the liquid is absorbed, 25 to 30 minutes.
  5. 5. Remove the pot from the oven and place on low heat on the stovetop. Stir in the crabmeat and cover the pot. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes longer. Serve hot.

Jamaican Bammy Cakes

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes about 16 cakes

I fell in love with bammy — a fried cake made with grated and dried yucca, salt, and water — on a research trip exploring the culinary heritage of Jamaica. I had never had it before, but something about the crispy yet creamy texture really won me over. This recipe is fairly simple. If you can’t find fresh yucca (cassava), not to worry: Caribbean and Indian markets usually sell frozen grated versions of the tuber. (See Bammy’s Roots for more on the history of bammy.)

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Place a large handful of grated yucca in a dishcloth (not terry) or cheesecloth and twist to squeeze out the liquid. Repeat with all of the yucca, squeezing out as much liquid as possible. Spread the yucca on a sheet pan or baking sheet, break up any lumps with a fork, and allow to dry out for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.
  2. 2. Mix the yucca with the salt and sugar in a large bowl. Slowly add the water to create a thick doughlike batter, adding more water as needed. Set aside.
  3. 3. Place the coconut milk in a high-sided baking dish. Heat half of the coconut oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of the yucca batter to the pan. Gently press down the batter with the back of a spoon and smooth into a circle about 3 to 4 inches wide. Add more batter, 2 to 3 tablespoons for each cake, leaving about 1⁄2 inch around each bammy. Fry until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes on each side, adding more coconut oil as necessary. You may have to fry the bammy in batches. As the bammy are done, remove them from the pan, place them in the coconut milk, and let soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
  4. 4. Remove each bammy from the coconut milk and shake or pat dry. Heat the skillet again over medium-low heat and add the remaining oil. Return the bammy to the skillet and fry until lightly golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Serve hot.

bammy’s roots

Bammy hearkens back to a staple food of the native Caribbean people, prior to Western colonization. It is most often eaten with stews or soups or with salted codfish for breakfast. In Jamaica, and in Caribbean markets, you can buy packaged bammy for soaking in coconut milk, then baking or frying, but as with anything, fresh is best.

Coconut Sticky Rice

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Makes 8 servings

Coconut sticky rice is most often served as a dessert, but I like to make it as a savory dish to accompany stews or satay. Thai sticky rice, also called sweet glutinous rice, is a hard grain that needs to be soaked for many hours, so plan ahead. You’ll need a bamboo steamer or a metal steamer insert lined with parchment paper.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. To wash the rice, place it in a deep bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 3 inches. Swirl the rice around with your hand until the water is cloudy. Carefully drain the water. Repeat this four or five times, until the water runs clear. Cover the rice with 4 cups of water and let soak for at least 6 hours and up to 24 hours.
  2. 2. Set a bamboo steamer or metal steamer insert in a medium saucepan. Line the steamer with parchment paper and add enough water in the bottom of the pan to come halfway up the side of the steamer.
  3. 3. Drain the rice and mound it on the parchment. Bring the water to a simmer and cover the pan. Allow the rice to steam over medium-low heat until it is tender and soft, 25 to 30 minutes.
  4. 4. Heat the coconut milk and salt in another medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the cooked rice and simmer, stirring constantly, until the liquid is fully absorbed, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve hot.
variation

dessert rice

If you’d rather make a dessert rice, simply add 1⁄4 cup of sugar to the coconut milk in step 4 and serve with fresh, ripe mango.

Yucca Frites

Gluten-free

Dairy-free

Paleo-friendly

Makes 4 servings

Yucca frites go exceptionally well with any meal that usually calls for french fries. They are excellent accompaniments to the Ultimate Vegan Burger, Coconut-Cashew Fried Chicken, and Coconut Spareribs. These frites are crispy with a delightfully soft center. I like to liberally sprinkle mine with Himalayan pink salt.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Bring the water and the 1 tablespoon salt to a boil in a large deep pot. Add the yucca halves and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook until they are just fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Do not boil the yucca to the point where it is soft enough to break apart.
  2. 2. Remove the yucca from the pot and allow to cool until the halves are easy to handle. Slice each half lengthwise and remove the fibrous center.
  3. 3. Slice the yucca pieces into thick french fries and set aside.
  4. 4. Heat the coconut oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the yucca fries in batches and fry until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a sheet pan lined with paper towels or a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Sprinkle generously with the pink salt and serve hot.

Note: Peeled yucca with the fibrous center removed is available in most supermarkets. If using frozen, simply simmer in water until fork tender, then slice and fry.