Photo: Hardangerfjord

The tours are marked in green in the Road Atlas

 

     THROUGH NORWAY’S FJORDS

Stavanger, the centre of Norway’s oil industry, is not a metropolis – but platforms and modern buildings show what is important in the city. The fjords and fjell seem to be far away. But typical West Norway comes into sight with the first ferry: along the fjords of Ryfylke and into the mountains, through tunnels to Hardangerfjord and finally to Sognefjord. This is a journey of a good 450 km (280 mi); allow yourself at least three days.

The ferry for Tau (a 45-min. journey | 25 departures daily) leaves from the centre of Stavanger to take you to the land of the fjords. After you reach the other side, make a detour on Road 13 to the south. Shortly after Jørpeland turn left to Preikestolshytta where the two-hour, somewhat demanding, hike to the famous rocky Preikestolen plateau begins. The view from the 604m (2000 ft) high ‘pulpit’ over the Lysefjord and the snow-capped peaks is absolutely dreamlike – that is, if the weather is fine.

You have now reached Ryfylke, an area of wide valleys, extensive forests, fjords with many side-arms and mountains stretching as far as Setesdal in southern Norway. On your way to the north, make a stopover in Ardal. A breathtaking panorama of the valley, the village and fjord opens up from the farm Høiland Gard (5 rooms, 4 cabins | tel. 51 75 27 75 | post@hoiland-gard.no | Budget–Moderate). Only a few kilometres after crossing the Jøsenfjord near Hjelmeland (10-min. ferry crossing | 22 departures daily) 17 km (11 mi) north of Årdal, you will have a magnificent view eastwards to the fjord before a short climb takes you to Erfjord and Sandsfjord.

Before you turn off Road 13 to the east towards the mountain, it is worthwhile making a brief detour to Sand (45 km/ 28 mi from Hjelmeland) on the fjord. The regional museum Ryfylkemuseet which focuses on everyday life and work in a village on the fjord is housed in a restored boat and net house. The Brødrene af Sand sailing ship lies at anchor on the quay. (Museum and ship mid-June–mid-Aug daily 10am–6pm, at other times Mon–Fri 10am–3.30pm | entrance fee 40 NOK). The impressive Ryfylke Turisthotel (71 rooms | tel. 52 79 27 00 | www.ryfylketuristhotel.no | Expensive) is located between the marina and mouth of the River Suldalslågel. You can watch salmon and sea trout making their way back upstream in the nearby Salmon Studio.

The difficult stretch of Road 13 along Suldalsvatnet Lake takes you away from the fjords for a while and into the mountains. Near Breifonn (71 km/44 mi from Sand), you meet the E134 to Hardanger. The southern landmark of this traditional holiday area are the Låtefossen falls that plummet down into the river next to the road. The waterfall is 400 m (1300 ft) long and plunges 165 m (540 ft) straight down into the depths.

Stay on the right when you reach the industrial town of Odda (39 km/24 mi from Breifonn) and stop at the Norwegian Hydroelectric Power and Industry Museum (mid-May–beginning of Sept daily 10am–5pm | entrance fee 70 NOK | www.nvim.no) in Tysdsedal. The power station is a magnificent, painstakingly restored, building constructed between 1900 and 1920 at a time when water power became the mainstay of Norway’s energy production and industrial development.

It is worth making a stop and spending the night in a comfortable cabin (Hardangertun | tel. 53 67 13 13 | www.hardangertun.no | Budget) in Kinsarvik (41 km/26 mi from Odda). If you are a keen hiker, you can make a climb through the Husedalen Valley past four waterfalls to the Hardangervidda plateau.

After the ferry crossing from Brimnes to Bruravik (10 min. | 40 departures daily), you will not even need an hour before you arrive in Voss (29 km/18 mi from Kinsartvik). This winter sports resort, surrounded by wooded slopes on the shore of a lake, is a popular destination for extreme sports enthusiasts. Don’t be surprised if parachutists and paragliders zoom past you on their way down into the valley.

With the Tvindefossen water steps behind you, the climb to the Vikafjellet Pass begins. It is rewarding to make a short or long hike into the mountains from one of the lay-bys on the road.

Shortly before you reach Vik (58 km/36 mi from Voss), turn off and visit Hopperstad stave church (Hopperstad Stavkirke) from 1150 with its Gothic altar baldachin decorated with magnificent carvings. On the other side of the road you will see the small Hove stone church (2nd half of the 12th century) – the oldest building on either side of Sognefjord. This is the last stop before reaching Sognefjord that you follow for a few minutes until you arrive in Vangsnes from where the ferries to Hella (15 min. | 24 departures daily) and Dragsvik (10 min. | 25 departures daily) depart.

 

     NORWAY’S DREAM COAST

Norway’s most beautiful circular route starts near Steinkjer north of Trondheim. If you decide to take Road 17 – ‘the slow way north’ – you should realise that the 578 km (360 mi) and seven ferry crossing will take quite a long time. However, if – after a while – you feel that you don’t want to drive any further, this is a clear sign that you are about to lose your heart to this stretch of coast between Trondheim and Bodø. Sandy beaches and waterfalls, the blue sea and fascinating mountains, islands, mighty glaciers and the light of the north – all are waiting for you.

You will see Torghatten Mountain in the distance while you are still at the ferry terminal in Vennesund (ferry Holm–Vennesund | 20 min. | 15 departures daily). Its most striking feature is a hole big enough for ‘a whole ship to sail through’. Stay in Vennesund for a while and enjoy the ocean and sunset on Nordland’s coast. You can spend the night in Vennesund Brygge og Camping (3 rorbus, 14 cabins | Sømna | tel. 75 02 73 75 | www.vennesund.no | Budget). The next day you will reach Brønnøysund, ‘the town in the centre of Norway’, and Torghatten that can be admired from afar after around 50 km (31 mi). The mountain is actually 15 km (9 mi) away on an island. A 20-minute walk takes you to the 160 m (525 ft) wide and 35 m (115 ft) high hole where you will be greeted with a magnificent view.

Something absolutely unique awaits you 8 km (5 mi) north of Brønnøysund at Tilrem Farm – a herb garden Hildurs Urterarium (June–Aug daily 10am–5pm | entrance fee 30 NOK | www.hildurs.no). The Arctic Circle is not far away but here herb soup is served – fresh from the garden. After a 20-minute ferry crossing from Horn to Anndalsvågen (8 departures daily) and 17 km (11 mi) on a beautiful coastal road, you will reach Vevelstad/ Forvik. The 200-year-old Forvikgåden trading place is right at the ferry terminal and a little further on you will see the local heritage museum and church (1796) with an altar painting by Joseph Pisani.

The next ferry takes one hour to reach Tjøtta and 19 km (12 mi) from there lies Alstahug, the heart of Nordland. Further inland the Seven Sisters mountain chain can be seen. The red Alstahaug parish house (June–mid Aug daily 10am–7pm | entrance fee 70 NOK) is almost directly on the shore next to the church. Three hundred years ago, this was the home of Petter Dass, Nordland’s great poet, whose collection Nordland’s Trumpet has its place in every Norwegian home library. Thanks to a 1000 m (3300 ft) long suspension bridge, Sandnessjøen (pop. 5300), a fishing town on the bank of Alstfjord, can be seen from far away. There you can stay in the Rica Hotel (69 rooms | Torolv Kveldulvsonsgate 16 | tel. 75 06 50 00 | www.rica.no | Moderate).

Here comes the next ferry terminal (Levang–Nesna | 25 min. | 11 departures daily). The mountains loom up closer to the road on the land side. The ferry from Kilboghamm to Jektvik (1 hour | 5–6 departures daily) would hardly be anything special if it wasn’t for the imaginary Arctic Circle. The captain is sure to tell you when it is reached but you won’t notice anything except the perpetual ice that lies in wait as does the next ferry 28 km (18 mi) from Jektvik (Ågskaret–Forøy | 10 min. | 10 departures daily). After such a long drive, there is good reason to stop here for a while: from Holandsfjord, the Engabreen – an arm of the Svartisen – reaches almost all the way to the sea. An excursion ship from Holand or Braset will bring you close to the furrowed mass of ice. You can spend the night surrounded by the magnificent scenery of Nordland on Negarden Farm (1 flat | tel. 90 09 67 20 | www.halsa.kommune.no | Moderate).

After you pass through Svartisen Tunnel, make your way to the industrial town of Glomfjord and then on to Ørenes. 38 km (24mi) further north, turn on to Road 838 towards Gildeskål and when you arrive there take a stroll through the village and to the church (guided tours in the summer season) that was erected before 1250. The tranquillity, harbour idyll and magical view in all directions are a strong contrast to the raging masses of water of the Saltstraumen that follows and is the perfect climax to our trip through Nordland. Road 17 ends near Løding on Road 80 a few miles beyond the maelstrom that is so spectacular when seen from above and this tour reaches its final destination in Bodø. Information on Road 17 can be obtained from Kystriksveien (Postboks 91 | 7701 Steinkjer | tel. 74 40 17 17 | www.rv17.no).

 

     FROM THE CAPITAL CITY TO THE WORLD CULTURAL SITE

The trip from Oslo to the country of the fjords is possibly even more beautiful if you travel by train or bicycle than by car. You will experience mountain landscapes where there are no roads but good cycle tracks. Start by taking the train from Oslo to Haugastøl and then cycle – in two stages – to Flåm on Aurlandsfjord. You then continue with the famous Flåms scenic railway to Bergen and return to Oslo from there. The tour lasts two days and you will cover a total of 82 km (51 mi) by bike. The trip takes you through rugged mountainous scenery, so be sure to have warm, weatherproof clothing with you!

The train leaves the main railway station in Oslo in the morning, passes through the western suburbs of the capital and then the two towns of Drammen and Hønefoss. You will feel that you are climbing upwards for the first time in the dense forests in Hallingdal Valley with its rivers and wooden houses. The slopes in Geilo have been smoothed and you will not find it difficult to imagine how popular this is as a winter sports resort. Your rented bicycles will be waiting to take you on the first section of the Rallar Road at the railway station in Haugastøl, 275 km (172 mi) from Oslo and 988 m (3240 ft) higher up.

After you leave Haugastøl, you cycle for 27 km (17 mi) on a firm, but not tarmaced, road to Finse: the ‘roof of Norway’ at an altitude of 1222 m (4010 ft) has now been reached! Spend a night in the Finse Hotel (43 rooms | tel. 56 52 71 00 | www.finse1222.no | only full board | Expensive). This more than 100-year-old mountain hotel has long been popular with mountaineers and hikers – and they have recently been joined by bike trekkers. Guests exchange tips and make plans for the next day in front of the fireplace or on the terrace with a view of Hardangerjøkulen glacier.

The second section of the old construction road alongside the Bergen railway actually runs downhill but this does not mean that it is any less strenuous. You can even come across snowdrifts in summer – the weather up here is very changeable and you will see why you need warm clothes. Hardangerjøkulen glacier keeps an eye on the travellers who come here and you will really have to concentrate on some of the bends – especially after Hotel Vathalsen where the adventurous descent into the Flamsdålen valley begins. On the last 10 km (6 mi) of this 55 km (34 mi) stretch, with a difference in altitude of around 800 m, you will be in the lee of massive walls of rock. On both sides, waterfalls tumble into the valley like threads of gossamer and fill the river flowing alongside the hiking path.

You reach Aurlandsfjord, a Unesco World Heritage Site, in Flåm. In summer, you can hear virtually every language spoken in the world in the station of the world famous Flåmsbana; the hustle and bustle will be a noticeable contrast to the peace and quiet of the past two days. This is where you return your bicycles. After having lunch on the fjord and visiting the Flåms Railway Museum (www.flamsbana-museet.no) in the erstwhile station in Flåms, you take the train through 20 tunnels and many narrow bends back into the mountains. After 20 km (12 mi), the electric locomotive has once again reached an altitude of 865 m (2840 ft) – you will be happy that you left your bikes down below at the fjord!

In Myrdal you change to the Bergen railway and head towards Bergen. After a two-hour journey – passing through Voss, countless tunnels and past even more fjords – you finally reach Bergen where your body and soul will be able to recuperate from a day full of wonderful impressions. The trip through southern Norway comes to an end here.

The quickest way to return to Oslo is by train. But, if you have more time, board one of the Hurtigruten ships for Ålesund where you can catch the bus to Åndalsnes and, from there, the train to Oslo.

More information on travel and bookings can be obtained from Fjord Tours (www.fjordtours.com) and from the Norwegian National Railway (www.nsb.no).

 

From Aurlandsfjord to the mountains: the Flåmsbana on its way to Myrdal