Weight: 1 tablespoon/¾ ounce/21 grams

Characteristics: Super-sweet (more than twice as sweet as white sugar), versatile, mild in flavor with no bitter aftertaste (darker varieties are a touch stronger in flavor).

Where it comes from: The best agave nectars come from the blue agave plant, which can be found in the volcanic soils of southern Mexico. The plant itself resembles the top of a giant pineapple, with long, thick leaves. Once the plant reaches maturity at about 7 to 10 years old, the leaves are harvested and their sap—called aguamiel, or “honey water”—is extracted. The sap is then filtered and heated, ideally at no more than 118˚F to retain the nutrients, to create a thicker syrup. (The sap can also be fermented to make tequila, but that’s another book.)

Best uses: In candies to prevent crystallization; in fruit desserts where its relatively neutral flavor can allow other flavors to really shine; in frozen desserts such as ice creams and sorbets, where it lends softness and scoopability, as in the ice creams on pages 206 and 214; and when you need to convert a recipe with honey to be vegan, agave nectar makes a good, easy substitution. With a thinner consistency than honey, agave nectar is great for sweetening all kinds of drinks and cocktails.

Bonus points: Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties (the Aztecs used agave sap right from the plant to treat wounds). It’s also a low glycemic sweetener. Teaspoon for teaspoon, agave nectar has more calories than white sugar, but because it has more than twice the sweetness, you can use less agave and still achieve a sweet result.

Additional buzz: As a sweetener, agave nectar isn’t without controversy—although it is low on the glycemic index, it’s also very high in fructose, which many experts recommend avoiding in large quantities. Additionally, some brands are subjected to extreme processing and high heat, which destroys any of agave’s benefits. To get the best product possible and retain some nutrients, I always look for raw, organic blue agave from trusted sources. Because it’s so light in flavor, I also tend to use it in recipes as more of a backup sweetener in conjunction with another sugar rather than making agave the main event.

How to store: Store in a sealed container in a cool, dark place.