From a sumptuous ruffle to a crisp binding, here are a few easy ways to add dimension and texture to your project.
What to know: Homemade fabric ribbons lend a little pop of color or subtle texture to a garment (or an original touch to a wrapped gift!). Any light-to medium-weight fabric can be made into ribbon, and the ribbon can be any width, as long as it isn’t too narrow to edgestitch.
How to do it: Cut strips of fabric to the desired width and length, or to the dimensions specified in the project instructions. To join strips for a longer ribbon, stitch them with the right sides together with a narrow seam and press the seam allowance to one side before finishing the edges. To finish the edges and create the ribbon, align the center mark of the presser foot with the outside fabric edge and narrow zigzag (we set our stitch width to 2) to overcast the edges. If you want the thread to be a prominent design element, use a wider and longer zigzag. Make a test sample of the zigzag to determine the width and length that best suits your needs.
What to know: Ruffles start with homemade ribbon, so first follow the instructions at left. When ruffled, the ribbon will shorten, so you need to start with longer strips of fabric. How long? That depends on how full and fluffy you’d like your ruffle to be. In general, cutting a strip that measures twice the length of the area you need to cover is a safe bet. Always make a little more than you need, because after the ruffle is stitched in place, any excess can be trimmed. (If you’re using jersey to make your ruffles, edgestitching is optional.)
How to make the ruffle: Run basting stitches down the center length of the ribbon, leaving long tails on both ends. Grasp both top threads and slide the fabric along those threads until the ribbon is ruffled as desired. Use a pin to pull both top threads to the bottom side and knot them with the bobbin thread. Snip the excess thread.
How to attach the ruffle: Pin the ruffle in place with the wrong side of the ruffle facing the right side of the project. Straight stitch it in place with a coordinating thread color close to the basting thread. If the basting thread is visible, remove it with a seam ripper or sharp pair of scissors after the ruffle is secured.
What to know: This technique gives a stretchy, well-fitting finish to a rounded edge or garment opening such as a neckline, sleeve end, or hat brim. It sounds trickier than it is, and it works like a charm.
How to do it: Measure and mark a fabric strip or strips as required by the project (the length will generally equal the measurement of the edge to be covered minus 10 percent). Fold the strip in half with the right sides facing, then join short edges together with a ¼″ seam to make a loop. Press the seam open, then press the loop almost in half lengthwise, as for making the binding (see chapter 1, pages 19–20) with the crease just a bit off center. Pin the binding loop to encase the raw edge of the project by first aligning the seam on the loop with a seam on the garment (one of the shoulder seams if it’s a neckline binding). Stretch the loop to the seam on the opposite side of the garment opening and pin it in place. Repeat to pin the loop halfway between the first two pins, then pin the rest of the binding in place, enclosing the entire edge. Stitch the binding in place, stretching it as needed and removing the pins as you go.
Cutting tip: When you’re measuring, add a bit more flare if you like—6″ on each side is the perfect amount for a little girl who likes to twirl.
We adore store-bought ribbon, but we also love the improvised vibe of homemade ribbon and the fact that it is absolutely free when made from bits and pieces straight out of your stash. For this project, we used both a ruffly version and a flat one to add extra prettiness to a summer dress.
Follow the instructions for the Two-Panel Garment (see chapter 3, page 34), through step 3, adjusting the length measurement as desired.
Plan the number and length of the decorative neckline ribbons. To cut the strips, multiply the desired finished length by 1.5 and then cut the fabric strips (for a 2″ ribbon, cut a 3″ strip; for a 7″ ribbon, cut a 10½″ strip). Ruffle the strips to make the ribbons (see page 60). We used five ½″-wide cotton strips with finished (ruffled) lengths from 2″ to 7″.
Pin the longest ribbon to the dress so one end is at the center front of the neckline and the other end extends straight down. Narrow zigzag, in contrasting thread, directly through the center of the ruffle to attach it to the front panel. Stitch two more ruffled ribbons on either side of the center ribbon.
what you’ll need
• Torso pattern piece to trace (see chapter 2, page 29)
• 1¼ yards of jersey or stretch pique fabric
• Contrasting homemade ribbon (see page 60); about 1 yard of 1″-wide and 25″ of ½″-wide
• 1 spool each of coordinating and contrasting thread
• Contrasting single-fold bias tape (store bought or homemade, see chapter 1, page 19)
Pin the unruffled 1″ ribbon along the dress front panel so the ribbon extends ½″ beyond the bottom of dress. Trim the ribbon ends at the side seams.
Narrow zigzag, in contrasting thread, along the top edge of the ribbon. Repeat on the dress back panel.
With the right sides together, straight stretch stitch the front and back panels at the shoulders and side seams with a ½″ seam. With the right side facing out, zigzag the seams with contrasting thread.
With coordinating thread bias tape, zigzag around the neckline and armholes, enclosing the raw edges (see chapter 1, page 19).
Ruching is popular because it’s so very flattering, especially around the midriff. In making this top, you determine the amount of ruching by how tautly you pull the elastic as you sew. Fold over elastic is perfect for this project—it’s soft against your skin and comes in beautiful colors, and even though it won’t show on the garment’s exterior, you’ll know it’s pretty on the inside!
Follow the instructions through step 3 for the Two-Panel Garment (see chapter 3, page 34), measuring for a tunic and adding an extra 12″ in length to the front panel to allow for the ruching. After you complete the ruching, you’ll trim the front and back panels to matching lengths. If you want to add sleeves to your garment, see the how-to instructions for adding sleeves on page 42.
With the wrong side of the front panel facing up and starting about 2″ below the armhole edge, backtack in a length of fold over elastic in place. Align the edge of the elastic with the raw edge of the panel.
what you’ll need
• Torso pattern piece to trace (see chapter 2, page 29)
• 1 yard of 60″-wide jersey fabric
• 1 spool of coordinating thread
• 30″ of fold over elastic
Using a narrow zigzag (our stitch width was 2) and working in small, approximately 3″ intervals, stitch ¼″ from the side edge, pulling on the elastic, but not pulling the fabric. Backtack at the end of the seam. Trim any excess elastic.
Repeat, applying an identical length of fold over elastic on the opposite side of the panel.
With the right sides together and using a straight stretch stitch, join the shoulders with a ½″ seam.
Align and pin the armholes to avoid shifting. Starting at the underarm, use a straight stretch stitch to sew a ½″ side seam, stitching on top of the elastic ½″ from the edge. Pull the front panel slightly to stretch out the ruching as you sew.
Repeat for the opposite side seam.
Turn the tunic right side out.
Most likely, the front and back panels will be uneven, and the front will dip down at the center. Trim the bottom edge by rounding the front and back evenly, or by cutting them both straight across.
Finishing tip: It’s jersey, so you can cut it any way you like and leave it like that.
A gentle cluster of gathers adds a little extra prettiness to a two-panel top or any scoop-necked garment you already own. Gathers, which are basically one-edged ruffles, are easy and fun to make.
Follow the instructions for the Two-Panel Garment, adjusting the length as desired to make a shirt (see chapter 3, page 34). If you want to add sleeves to your garment, see the how-to instructions for adding sleeves in the same chapter (page 42).
what you’ll need
• Torso pattern piece to trace (see chapter 2, page 29)
• 1 yard of 60″-wide jersey fabric
• 1 spool of coordinating thread
With chalk, mark the front center of the neckline. Then measure and mark 1½″ away from the center in both directions.
Sew a row of basting stitches between your marks, ¼″ from the fabric edge, leaving long tails of thread on each end. Grasp the two top threads (leave the bobbin threads alone) and slide the fabric into gathers. Once you have pulled the threads and gathered the neckline, use a pin to pull each top thread through to the back of the garment and tie the top thread to the bobbin thread in a double knot.
Using a straight stretch stitch, topstitch over the basting thread and gathers.
Here’s a neat way to alter a neckline that gaps or is otherwise ill-fitting. Use it on a garment you’ve made from scratch, or modify one you already own. Our pleats are stitched at 1″ intervals, but you can customize the spacing for a perfect fit.
Follow the instructions for the Two-Panel Garment, adjusting the hemline as desired to make it into a shirt (see chapter 3, page 34). If you want to add sleeves to your garment, see the how-to instructions for adding sleeves in the same chapter (page 42).
Mark the center of the front neckline with a chalk dot. Then, at 1″ intervals, make three markings on both sides of the center dot as shown.
Working on the right side, fold the innermost markings (A) to meet the center point and pin the pleats in place. Fold the outermost markings (C) to meet the adjacent ones (B) and pin them in place. Baste the pleats in place close to the edge of the fabric.
Following the instructions on page 19, make a loop of ½″-wide binding and pin it in place. Zigzag all around the binding ¼″ from the edge.
what you’ll need
• Torso pattern piece to trace (see chapter 2, page 29)
• 1 yard of 60″-wide jersey fabric
• 1 spool of coordinating thread
This duffle is so sleek and functional; you’ll want to wear it every day. With its long cowl, you can even pull it up over your head for a more grown-up take on the beloved hoodie.
Follow the instructions for The Two-Panel Garment (see chapter 3, page 34) with the following changes: add sleeves (see chapter 2, page 42) and cut a wide scoop neckline (see chapter 2, page 31).
Measure the entire perimeter of the neckline and add ½″ to the measurement for seam allowance. Cut a rectangle of fabric that equals this measure in length × 23″ wide, with the straight grain of the fabric running across the length. Straight stitch the short ends together with a ¼″ seam.
With the tunic inside out, slide the cowl inside the neck so the right sides are together. Pin the raw edges together, lining up the cowl’s seam with a shoulder seam. Straight stitch a ½″ seam around the pinned perimeter.
what you’ll need
• Torso pattern piece to trace (see chapter 2, page 29)
• Pocket template (page 311)
• 2½ yards of knit fabric (we used a thick 2-way stretch knit fabric)
• 1 spool of coordinating or contrasting thread
Design tip: Align the top edge of the pocket with the wearer’s bellybutton.
Fold a 10″ × 17″ piece of fabric in half along the straight grain and pin the pocket template on the fold so the grain runs from the top to the bottom of the pocket. Trace around the template and then cut along the marked lines through both thicknesses of fabric.
To make binding for the pocket openings, cut two 1″ × 8″ strips along the crossgrain. Fold the strips lengthwise, just off center, with wrong sides together (see page 19 for more on making binding).
Pin the binding strips to each pocket opening so that the wider side of the folded binding is on the wrong side of the pocket and the raw edge of the pocket is encased in the binding fold.
Zigzag the edge of the binding to the pocket, overcasting the edge of the binding slightly.
Press the top, sides, and bottom edges of the pocket ½″ to the wrong side and pin the pocket so it is centered on the front of the tunic.
Zigzag the pocket in place along the top, sides, and bottom (not the curved edges finished with binding). Reinforce the stitching at the corners of the pocket openings with extra backtacking.
Depending on the fabric you have chosen for this project, you might want to hem the bottom edge. If so, trim the bottom edge so it’s even all the way around, then press the cut edge under ½″, and sew the hem in place with the same zigzag used for the pocket.
Shirring and smocking are often associated with little girls’ clothing, but this dress proves that shirring can look very sophisticated too. The empire waist also has grown-up appeal because it’s flattering on just about everyone, as it accentuates the positive.
Follow the instructions for the Two-Panel Garment (see chapter 3, page 34), adjusting the length as desired, and adding sleeves of your choice (see chapter 3, page 42).
To finish the raw edges of the dress, use a straight stretch stitch to sew three meandering lines around the neck and bottom edge. Sew two meandering lines at the bottom edge of the sleeves (for tips on decorative lines of stitching, see chapter 5, page 106).
Have the wearer put on the dress. Chalk mark the point where the top center of the empire waistline’s shirring should lie (it’s usually right at the bottom edge of the breastbone, where the ribs come together). Have the wearer take the dress off.
With the right side of the dress front facing up, measure along the side seam from the armhole to a point that is level with the waistline chalk mark. Mark that point on the side seam, then repeat on the other side. Draw a straight line across the dress front connecting the side seam and chalk markings.
what you’ll need
• Torso and sleeve pattern pieces to trace (see chapter 2, pages 29–30)
• 2 yards of wool jersey fabric
• 1 spool each of coordinating and contrasting thread
Starting at the waistline, draw two lines, each parallel to and 6″ from each side seam, as shown.
Run four lines of basting at ¼″ intervals across the marked shirring area. Be sure to leave long tails of thread at the beginning and end of the stitching lines, and don’t backstitch.
Gently grasp the top threads and slide the fabric along them to form even gathers. With a pin, pull the top threads through to the back and knot each one to its corresponding bobbin thread.
Using a decorative stitch, topstitch over and between each of the four sewn lines in contrasting thread (we used four lines of featherstitch in light green thread and three lines of smocking stitch in orange thread).
Silk jersey is a joy to work with and takes the Four-Panel Garment to new heights with its drape and smooth hand. Possibilities for embellishment are endless; think about subtle silk thread hand stitching along the seams (as shown) or a flash of beading on the sash ends.
Follow the instructions for the Four-Panel Garment, adjusting the length measurements as desired for your dress (see chapter 3, page 38).
Following the instructions in chapter 3, page 42, measure, mark, and cut short sleeves, but add an extra 1″ between the fabric fold and the sleeve pattern piece (adds width to sleeve cap), to allow for a subtle puffed shoulder.
Fold the fabric sleeve in half and mark the center at the top shoulder edge. Mark a line 2″ long on each side of the center marking, ¼″ in from the edge. Stitch along the line with a basting stitch, leaving long thread tails at both ends.
Gently pull on the top thread and slide the fabric into gathers. With a pin, pull the top thread through to the wrong side, and then knot the top and bobbin threads together.
Attach the sleeves to the dress (see chapter 3, page 44).
what you’ll need
• Torso and sleeve pattern pieces to trace (see chapter 2, pages 29–30)
• 2 yards of silk jersey (54/55″ wide), depending on desired length
• 1 spool of coordinating thread
Stitching tip: When working with silk jersey, use a fine needle (we used a 70/10 stretch needle), a slightly longer stitch length, and polyester thread. Remember to cut the pattern pieces so the straight grain of the fabric runs the length of the dress and sleeves.
Working on the wrong side of fabric, measure and mark the following pieces so they will be cut out on the cross grain:
—hemline binding (cut 2): 1″ wide × length of bottom edge from side seam to side seam + 1″
—sash (cut 2): 4″ × 40″
—sash loop (cut 1 or 2): 1″ × 2″ (we cut 1, but if you’d like a loop on either side for symmetry’s sake, cut 2)
Lay the dress flat. With scissors, trim the hem so that it’s even and slightly rounded, ¼″ higher at the side seams than at the center ones.
Straight stitch the hemline binding strips together at both ends with a ½″ seam, creating a loop. Press the binding loop in half lengthwise so it is ½″ wide all around.
Pin the binding so it encloses the raw edge of the hem and the seams are aligned.
Zigzag the binding in place close to the binding raw edge, taking care to catch both sides of the binding in the stitching.
Sew the short edges of the sash pieces with the right sides together, making one 80″-long strip. Press one long edge 1″ to the wrong side, then press the opposite edge 1½″ to the wrong side. Cut the narrow end at an angle as in photo on page 81.
Stitch along both folded edges with a narrow zigzag (our stitch width was 2, stitch length was 1.5).
Press in both long edges of the sash loop piece, overlapping them at the center by ¼″, and stitch them in place with a narrow zigzag. Turn in ¼″ and hand-stitch the short edges to finish them.
To attach the sash loop, have the wearer try on the dress, tie the sash at the desired level (ours is placed under the bust to create an empire waist), and mark one side seam at the desired sash loop location. Have the wearer carefully remove the dress. With the piece folded in half to form a loop, hand-stitch the ends to the marked spot, keeping the stitches as small as possible.
Cutting tip: Reserve enough silk for the ruffle (see step 7, page 82).
Stitching tip: Don’t fret if you sew over any basting stitches because they are still easy enough to remove.
Have the wearer try on the dress to mark and then cut a V neckline, following the instructions in chapter 2, page 31.
Measuring from selvage to selvage, mark and cut two 1″-wide strips, each as long as the neckline measurement plus 6″. Make the strips into ruffles (see the chapter intro, page 60).
Design tip: Always mark any neckline wearing the bra you (or the wearer) are planning to wear under the dress. If you don’t love a V neckline, a scooped one also looks nice with a ruffle.
With the right sides together and a ¼″ seam, join the ruffled strips to make one long strip. Pin that seam to the center back seam at the edge of the neckline. Carefully pin the ruffle in both directions all the way around the neckline, to the front seam, and down the front as long as one or both ruffles will reach (or as long as you want them).
Straight stitch the ruffle in place next to the basting stitch. Carefully remove the basting stitches with a seam ripper. Hand stitch as desired to embellish seams and sleeves.
Add texture and interest to a top with nature-inspired trimmings. The asymmetrical design makes this look modern rather than fussy.
Follow the instructions for the Two-Panel Garment (see chapter 3, page 34). We like this tunic with cap or short sleeves (see chapter 3, page 42).
From the same or contrasting fabric, draw and cut leaf shapes. We cut eight leaves, each measuring 4¼″ × 1¾″.
Starting at the shoulder seam, lay the leaves in a line along the neckline and down the center front seam. Tuck the top of each leaf beneath the one above it. To make the embellishment look more organic, place the last two leaves randomly, at a slightly different angle from the rest.
Hand-sew the leaves in place with embroidery floss, beginning inside the shirt at the shoulder and tacking down the first leaf with an X stitch. Continue along the neckline, securing the leaves at their top edges with a running stitch.
what you’ll need
• Torso and sleeve pattern pieces to trace (see chapter 2, pages 29–30)
• 1½ yards of wool jersey fabric
• 1 spool of coordinating thread
• Embroidery floss in a coordinating or contrasting color
• Embroidery hand needle
Design tip: We like the way this tunic looks sleeveless, but feel free to add sleeves if you like (see chapter 3, page 42).
With its hand-embroidered embellishments and raw edges, this tunic has a real DIY style. But here’s our little secret: the exposed center seams also elongate and flatter the body of the lucky wearer.
Follow the instructions for the Four-Panel Garment (see chapter 3, page 38) but, in step 2, fold the fabric with the wrong sides together, and then stitch the panels with the wrong sides together.
Having carefully sewn the front and back panels with the wrong sides together, the raw edges of the seam allowances will be exposed. Press the seams open.
Knot the embroidery thread. Starting on the wrong side of the front center seam ½″ below the neckline, hand-sew an X stitch at the top edge on the right side.
Continuing on the right side of the garment, hand-sew a line of running stitches down the left edge of the seam allowance, making another X stitch every so often along the center seam. At the bottom edge, make an X stitch, then sew a line of running stitches up the right edge of the opposite seam allowance back to the neckline. Knot and trim the thread on the wrong side. Repeat this seam treatment along the center back seam and side seams.
what you’ll need
• Torso pattern piece to trace (see chapter 2, page 29)
• 2 yards of jersey fabric
• Coordinating thread
• Contrasting cotton embroidery thread
• Embroidery hand needle
what you’ll need
• 1½ yards of solid cotton jersey
• Fold over elastic
• 1 spool of coordinating or contrasting thread
Flouncy and flirty, this skirt is based on the two-panel skirt pattern. You can buy jersey by the yard or go thrifty and green by upcycling one or two large t-shirts. We show the skirt here with the main panel and the layered bottom piece cut from the same fabric, but you can add interest by using another color for the layered bit, or by simply using contrasting color thread.
Follow the instructions for the Two-Panel Skirt (page 47) through step 1. The layered hemline reduces the length by ½″, which means that the skirt might end up too short for you. Add ½″ to your length measurement to compensate.
Measure and mark a straight line 2½″ above the bottom edge of both skirt panels. Cut along the marked line. (Or cut 2½″-wide strips from contrasting color jersey).
Pin the right side of a strip to the wrong side of the bottom edge of one panel, overlapping them by ½″ (or, if you don’t want to pin the layers, draw a chalk line on the panel’s right side ½″ from the edge, to guide you as you sew). Using a line of zigzag and a line of straight stretch stitch, topstitch the layers together ½″ from the edge of the panel. Repeat for the other panel.
Pin the front and back panels with the right sides together and sew a ½″ seam along each side, using a straight stretch stitch.
Sew fold over elastic along the waistband (see chapter 1, page 19).
Design tip: Our tiers ended 2″ from the bottom edge of the skirt.
If your skirt is longer, you can certainly add more tiers.
Here’s a skirt with a high adorableness factor: the front is one simple piece, but the back view is surprising and charming. For this project, choose a fine jersey, since a heavier one would likely add too much bulk to your bustle.
Follow the instructions through step 1 for the Two-Panel Skirt, chapter 3, page 47.
Each finished tier is 4″ wide, and overlaps the tier below it by 1″. Lay out the back panel with the right side up to use as a guide. From the rest of the fabric and with the straight grain running vertically, cut four strips, each 4″ long and wider than the widest point (the bottom edge) of your skirt. From those four strips, measure, mark, and cut each tier as follows:
—Tier 1 (begins at waistline): Align a strip over the back panel with its top edge at the waist. Trace along the panel’s side edges and cut along those marked lines.
—Tier 2: Align a different strip over the panel so it is positioned 3″ to 7″ down from the waist. Trace along the panel’s side edges and cut along those marked lines.
—Tier 3: Align a different strip over the panel so it is positioned 6″ to 10″ down from the waist. Trace along the panel’s side edges and cut along those marked lines.
—Tier 4: Align the remaining strip over the panel so it is positioned 9″ to 13″ down from the waist. Trace along the panel’s side edges and cut along those marked lines.
what you’ll need
• 1 or 2 yards of jersey fabric (we used 1 yard to sew this little girl’s version, but an adult version requires 2 yards)
• Fold over elastic
• 1 spool of coordinating thread
Draw chalk lines straight across the back panel at the locations where the tiers will be stitched to the panel. Tier 1 will be sewn to the waist, so mark the first line 3″ down from the waistline for Tier 2, 6″ below the waistline for Tier 3, and 9″ below the waistline for the last tier.
Using a narrow zigzag, attach each tier along its marked line so the stitches are flush with the tier’s raw top edge. Each tier will overlap the one below it by 1″.
Smooth the tiers flat and pin the front and back panels with the right sides together, and the tiers sandwiched between them. Stitch ½″ side seams with a straight stretch stitch.
Sew fold over elastic along the waistband (see chapter 1, page 19).
Throw is the operative word here—this casual floor accent can be tossed anywhere you need some color. The jute-strap binding adds texture and toughness. On a covered porch, it can be a treat for bare feet and give a homey look to a set of outdoor furniture. In cooler weather, bring it inside to warm up an entryway; don’t worry about your crew’s dirty shoes since this rug is fully washable.
Fold the pressed canvas in half so that the short edges meet. Press the crease, then cut one rug bottom and one rug interior layer along the fold, creating two pieces each measuring 44″ × 72″.
Lay out the rug bottom with the wrong side facing up. Position the interior piece over it, and then lay the rug top fabric over the two layers, with the right side facing up. Smooth the layers and pin them together with safety pins, using plenty of pins to prevent shifting.
Fold the jute strap lengthwise so that one side of the fold is about ¼″ narrower than the other (see illustration on page 94). Press the crease.
Cut two 72″ lengths of folded jute and pin them so they enclose the edges of the fabric layers along both long sides. Cut two 44″ lengths of jute. Miter the corners as shown on page 94 and press. Pin the shorter lengths in place to enclose the fabrics’ short edges.
what you’ll need
• 2 yards of 44″-wide home-decor weight fabric for the rug top
• 4 yards of 44″-wide heavyweight canvas in coordinating color
• 7 yards of 3½″- or 4″-wide jute strap
• 1 spool of coordinating thread
• Extra-large safety pins
• Denim sewing machine needle
Layout tip: After canvas is washed, it can be very wrinkled. To get rid of the wrinkles, smooth the just-washed fabric and hang it to dry on a clothesline, if weather permits. Otherwise, take it out of the dryer when it’s still a little damp and press it with a hot iron.
Install the denim needle and set your machine for a 2.5 straight stitch. Topstitch the jute in place, ¼″ from the inside edge.
To add extra stability to the layers of the rug, tack the layers together every 10″ to 12″. We used coordinating thread and free-motion stitched around some of the red flowers in the fabric pattern (this looks sweet on the rug’s bottom side, too, as shown at right).
The uneven hemline of this sophisticated little number looks lovely when the front is left open, and adds interest to a plain top or dress when it is tied at the waist. The simple ruffle is left with a raw edge for a more laid-back touch.
Lay the fabric right side up with the straight grain running vertically. Fold one edge toward the center so that you can fit the panel pattern piece positioned along the fabric fold. Trace the pattern piece onto the wrong side of the fabric and cut along the marked lines through both layers of fabric. Don’t cut through the fold, because that’s the center of the back panel. Simply unfold your fabric after cutting and it’s ready to go.
Fold the remaining fabric in half with the right sides together and position the panel pattern piece so the side seam is close to, but not on, the fabric fold. This will allow for ample room to draw a new shape for the center opening.
Trace the shoulder line, the armholes, and the side seam. To make the swooping design line of the front, mark a point on the fabric 5″ from the bottom of the pattern piece and 7″ to the right of the original center line as shown. Use a French curve or your eye to draw lines to connect this mark with the side and shoulder seams as shown. Cut along the lines through both layers of fabric.
With the right sides together, pin the back to the two front pieces so the shoulder and sides are aligned. Using a straight stretch stitch, sew a ½″ seam at the shoulders and sides.
Fold the remaining yardage in half with the straight grain running vertically and the right sides together. Cut two 1″-wide strips from fabric edge to fabric edge across the grain.
what you’ll need
• Torso pattern piece to trace (see chapter 2, page 29)
• 1 yard 58/60″-wide jersey fabric
• 1 spool of coordinating thread 96 ruffles, pleats, and trims
Baste ¼″ from one long edge of each strip. On each strip, grasp the top thread and gently slide the fabric along the thread to make loose gathers.
Pin a ruffled strip along each edge of the front panel so that the panel overlaps the ruffle’s sewn edge by ¼″, extending the ruffles as desired to fit the front edge. From the right side of the panel, topstitch with a straight stitch about 
″ from the edge (as shown in photo above). This leaves the front panel’s raw edges exposed to add even more fullness and texture.
Stitching tip: When you’re done stitching the seams, snip the corners of the seam allowances so they don’t show.
With just a small amount of fabric or even a remnant, you can stitch up a smart bag suitable for a million uses. Vary the fabrics and don’t worry if the trimming edges fray—that’s part of the tote’s gypsy appeal.
Measure and mark the following pieces directly onto the wrong side of your fabric and then cut them out:
—lining: 16″ × 28″
—exterior: 16″ × 28″
—handle: 2″ × 25″ (cut 2 from each fabric)
—ribbon trim: 1″ × 32″ wide (cut 3 from the exterior fabric)
Fold the fabric with the right sides together, so the folded piece measures 16″ × 14″. Cut the folded edge open. Using a straight stitch, sew ½″ seams along the bottom and side edges. Trim the bottom corners and press the seams open.
Make ribbons from the three ribbon strips following the instructions in the chapter intro (page 60).
Pin one ribbon to the right side of the exterior piece, straight across the longer edge, 1″ from the top edge. Straight stitch through the center of the ribbon to attach it to the bag front. Repeat to attach the remaining ribbons, each parallel and adjacent to the one above it.
Fold the exterior fabric in half, with the right sides (the beribboned sides) together. Cut the folded edge open. Straight stitch ½″ seams at the sides and bottom and press the seam allowances flat. Turn right side out.
what you’ll need
• ½ yard of exterior fabric (we used a home-decor weight fabric)
• ½ yard of lining fabric (we used a woven cotton)
• 1 spool of contrasting thread
With wrong side out, slide the lining piece inside the exterior piece so the wrong sides are together (as shown on left). Fold and press the top edges of the exterior and lining ¾″ toward the lining side and zigzag the raw edges together (this will join the lining and the exterior).
Pair each exterior fabric strap with a lining fabric strap with the wrong sides together.
Zigzag each pair together along both long edges.
Starting and ending 1″ from the ends, press the straps in half with the lining sides together to create a fold in the handle.
Zigzag the long edges together (across from the fold), leaving 1″ at each end unstitched so the straps can be attached to the bag.
Pin a strap on each side of the exterior so the strap ends are about 1″ from each side seam with the ends tucked beneath the uppermost ribbon. Zigzag the ends in place (this seam will be concealed by the ribbon), then straight stitch the straps to the top edges of the tote.
This simple little shirt gets its creative spark from contrasting homemade binding decoratively stitched at the neck. This project is great for practicing this handy trimming technique, which is used throughout the book. If you’re an experienced sewist, you’ll find this a fast and fun way to add an unusual look to your t-shirt wardrobe. We used contrasting thread for extra flair, but a coordinating color would look sleek and polished.
Follow the instructions for the Two-Panel Garment (see chapter 3, page 34). We like this shirt with long or ¾-length sleeves (see chapter 3, page 42). Add ½″ to the length of the front and back panels and sleeves for hemming.
Cut a scoop neckline (see chapter 2, page 31).
On one side, cut a 2″ slit from the neckline into the body of the shirt in a spot where it won’t reveal a bra strap (the slit shown is 4½″ from the shoulder seam). Open the slit a bit more by cutting its sides into shallow half-moon curves.
To determine the correct length for the neckline binding, measure the circumference of the neckline (disregard the keyhole for the moment), then subtract 10% because the binding needs to be a bit smaller than the neckline opening in order to lie flat.
what you’ll need
• Torso and sleeve pattern pieces to trace (see chapter 2, pages 29 and 30)
• 1 yard of wool or cotton jersey
• ¼ yard of contrasting jersey for the binding
• 1 spool each of coordinating and contrasting thread
• Small button
Measure the circumference of the keyhole opening next.
Place the contrasting fabric wrong side up, then measure, mark, and cut the following pieces on the cross grain of the fabric:
—neckline binding: 1″ × neckline measurement
—keyhole binding: 1″ × keyhole measurement + 2″
Prepare the keyhole binding, following the instructions for making a binding loop strip (without joining the short edges) on page 61. Pin the strip so it encloses the keyhole’s raw edges. Zigzag the binding in place close to the raw edge of the binding. Cut off any excess binding so the ends are flush with the neckline edge.
Make a binding loop and attach it around the neckline, following the instructions on page 61. Zigzag the binding in place close to the raw edge of the binding.
Hand-sew a decorative button onto the neckline binding at the point where the keyhole and the neckline meet.
Press under ½″ double-fold hems (see chapter 1, page 19) along the sleeve openings and the bottom edge. Zigzag the hems with contrast color thread.
Cutting tip: Just eyeball these cuts, or, if you’d rather, trace the curve of a jar or container lid.
